Homebrew Digest Monday, 8 July 1996 Number 2096
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
Seattle-Area Homebrew Suppliers (Kallen Jenne)
Re: Sammy Smith's (Aaron Sepanski)
Beer in spaaaaace, postal stories, bug spray beer ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
maltose syrup (Jay Weissler)
Sammy Smith's Oatmeal Stout from Kenosha (WineNBrew at aol.com)
Copper Manifold question ("Braam Greyling")
If Operating Systems Were Beers (fwd) (Dodger Posey)
New England Brewpubs (katecone at maine.com (Kate Cone))
Cherry Wheat beer (rhampo at ford.com (Rich Hampo))
re: RIMS Rest (Marty Tippin)
gelatinization temperatures (robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston))
Re: Hunter Airstat Experience ("Roger Deschner ")
sparging ("Dave Higdon")
cider beer combo (Bob Waterfall)
RE: Hops (David Conger)
Mashing Time, Iodine, ("David R. Burley")
BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff - Accepting entries now (jformane at students.uiuc.edu (Joe Formanek))
Re: Hop Drying (Jeff Frane)
False bottoms and the 4th ("Donald A. Put")
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Kallen Jenne <tirado at sprynet.com>
Date: Sun, 07 Jul 1996 22:45:36 -0700
Subject: Seattle-Area Homebrew Suppliers
Liberty Malt Supply (622-1880) and Evergreen Brewing Supply (882-9929)
are probably the best-equipped in the area that I've been to. I really
like the folks at Northwest Brewers Supply (800-728-ALES) - that's where
I do most of my business, although I think they are a better info
resource than straight-up supply house (they are never too busy to
answer the "I don't want to pay you for this - can you tell me how to
make it?" question). Standard "No Affiliation" blurb here - i.e., I get
no free malt...
Return to table of contents
From: Aaron Sepanski <sepanska at it.uwp.edu>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 01:16:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Sammy Smith's
I had recently purchased a sixer of sam smith's oatmeal stout. I hjave
had the beer before many times, and liked it very much. But I usually
had it in Milwaukee. I bought the last sixer here in Kenosha and it was
horrible! Terrible aroma and disgusting mid and after taste. It was so
bad that i had to dump 5 bottles. I tried to communicate with the
comapany and got no response. The reason could most definetly be the
light. This place keeps some beers out on the shelf and some in the
fridge. When the fridge runs out they fill in from the shelf. So go
figure. But to get to the point, I was wondering if anyone had a number
of the distributers (Merchant Du Vin Corp) for me. I just think that its
bullshit if you pay $12 for a stinkin six pack and get a crappy batch.
Anyone agree?
Thanx!
Return to table of contents
From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 10:52:00 -0500
Subject: Beer in spaaaaace, postal stories, bug spray beer
Collective intelligence of the HBD,
1. Space Beer. The release of CO2 should not be a problem.
A gas permeable membrane could keep the fermenting wort in
an enclosed space while releasing the gas. A microgravity
fermentation lock is easy. A ball attached to an elastic cord is the
simplest I can think of. A better solution is a vacuum pump
(notorious for its one way airflow, I'm sure micro-gee models
are available) adjusted to take up the CO2. Filtering will get
rid of the trub et al. Biggest problem; filling bottles. My idea is
specially designed bottles with vacuum inside sealed with
a valve assembly. Beer is sucked into the vacuum through
the valve assembly. Cap normally. BTW this could be a
great moneymaker for NASA considering what the Egyptian
beer is going for (perhaps they could combine the two - chariots
of the gods man!!).
2. US Postal Office. I know it is popular to bash the US Post
Office, but I have never had a problem with them. No matter
where I go in the world, my mail finds me. While I lived in
Panama, I mailed back bottles of wine, liquor, and beer to
friends and family (taking advantage of the great prices)
before it was pointed out to me that it was illegal. In fact I
had to write down what was in the box and the price on a
special form attached to the outside. I told the truth - 1 bottle
scotch - $5.00 ect. All got to their destinations in good time.
The ATF hasn't broken down my door (yet).
3. From: Terry <brew at buffnet.net>........Does anyone know of an
organic bug killer that I can use without out making "bug spray beer".
Speaking of bug spray beer, the Biohazard Brewing Company
is currently negotiating to have the Organophosphate Lager
officially recognize as a beer style. The negotiations are stalled
on semantics, specifically quantifying the term, "Pleasantly
Convulsive."
Daniel Goodale
The Biohazard Brewing Company
Sure it's gonna kill ya, but who wants to live forever?
Return to table of contents
From: Jay Weissler <jay_weissler at il.us.swissbank.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 15:55:42 +0900
Subject: maltose syrup
I asked the Wheeler says maltose, but what the heck is it question not too
long ago myself. To which Dr. Gillian Grafton replied
>You can't buy maltose syrup but you can make it up. Take 800g of
glucose powder (dextrose) and 200g of dextrin powder. Mix well.
Dissolve 800g of the mixed powder in water and make up to 1 litre.
Hope that helps
jayw
>From Tokyo
Return to table of contents
From: WineNBrew at aol.com
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:56:53 -0400
Subject: Sammy Smith's Oatmeal Stout from Kenosha
Originally-From: Aaron Sepanski <sepanska at it.uwp.edu>7-8-96
Subject: Re: Sammy Smith's
Dear Aaron,
We all sympathize with you losing $12 on a bad 6-pack. Not too many can
afford a deal like that. Sorry you have such a problem!
Unfortunately, to get proper satisfaction from legit business here in the
U.S. you just GOTTA follow standard, sensible steps to get a refund.
#1) Don't throw the product away. Keep it and return it to the place you
bought it. If its bad then they will give you either a replacement or your
$$$$$$$$ back. Most companies want to make you happy...not start a fight with
you.
If you throw the beer away. What proof does anybody have?
How can a company justify passing out free money to customers without some
proof so they can go back to the wholesaler or manufacturer and get their
money back.
Just makes logical sense.......right? Right!
#2) If you're mad, you don't have to be sweet & nice, but at least be polite
and neutral.
#3) Want a refund? Just give them a very short explanation that the product
was no good and what you want in order to straighten this out. Don't go
ballistic! That will only guarantee an un-satisfactory outcome for you. They
have your money, not vice-versa, (and no one likes to be yelled at.)
Cool, calm, and quiet. Never flame. That's the ticket.
#4) Now, you did throw the beer away, and you don't have a receipt.....right?
Call the store/bar where you bought the beer, politely ask for the manager
(or even the person who sold it to you, if you have a good memory for
names)....explain the situation and ask if they can help you, please.
This might work, if you're very nice.
#5) If they say no, ask for the local suppliers phone and call them.
#6) Finally call Merchant du Vin (in Seattle) call info there, plus.....I've
also seen their ads in most of the brew-mags.
Good luck, and remember...next time, don't throw the beer away! Return it or
cook with it!
Good Luck!
Cheers! :)
Sandra & Craig
Wine & Brew By You, Inc.
Miami, Florida
P.S. Why not brew an imitation and save a bunch??? We've got a free & easy
extract recipe for you if you write or call us.
Return to table of contents
From: "Braam Greyling" <acg at knersus.nanoteq.co.za>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:09:32 +200
Subject: Copper Manifold question
Hi there.
Another question on Keg conversion. This time it is about my copper
manifold.
I could not get soft copper so I went to the local building shop and
bought 3/4 inch copper pipe that they use as water pipes in
buildings. The problem with this copper pipe is that it does not bend
I also bought a T-piece and two U-connectors.
Then I built the following with the copper:
VIEW WITH FIXED FONT PLEASE !!
UU*************************UU
U U
U U
U U
U U
U U
U U
UU*********TTTTT***********UU
T
T
T
*
*
*
*
* <<< This part goes into the hole on the side of
the keg
UUU --- is the U-pieces
TTT --- is the T-piece
****** ---- is the 3/4 copper pipe.
Then I took the hacksaw and sawed slits into the pipe. The slits is
about 0.2 - 0.4 inch apart.
The whole thing lies flat on the bottom of the keg.
The total length of copper pipe with slits in is about
13 to 14 inches.
I could not test this yet. I first need to finish my frame and gas
connections etc.
MY QUESTION:
Will this work? Do I have enough copper pipe with slits in ?
Any tips ?
Thanks a lot!
Happy brewing
Braam Greyling I.C. Design Engineer
Nanoteq (Pty) Ltd tel. +27 (12) 665-1338
- ---- 24 hours in a day, 24 beers in a case ----
- ---- coincidence ????? ----
Return to table of contents
From: Dodger Posey <dodger at quack.kfu.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 01:09:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: If Operating Systems Were Beers (fwd)
I haven't been around lately, so haven't contributed much. Now, 2 items.
1. Beer Longetivity. I made 12 batches of beer 1.5 to 3 years ago, and
am still drinking them. Nearly all batches are still Most Excellent. Just
finished my Batch #2, dated 7/93, Ugly Duckling Ale, and i'm in heaven.
#2 The following is included since it could include alot of subscribers
to this digest.
- - --------------Dodger Posey-----dodger at quack.kfu.com-------------
- - ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: If Operating Systems Were Beers
DOS Beer
Requires you to use your own can opener, and requires you
to read the directions carefully before opening the can.
Originally only came in an 8-oz. can, but now comes in a
16-oz. can. However, the cans are divided into 8 compartments
of 2 oz. each, which have to be accessed separately. Soon
to be discontinued, although a lot of people are going to
keep drinking it after it's no longer available.
Mac Beer
At first, came only in a 16-oz. can, but now comes in a 32-oz.
can. Considered by many to be a "light" beer. All the cans
look identical. When you take one from the fridge, it opens
itself. The ingredients list is not on the can. If you call
to ask about the ingredients, you are told that "you don't
need to know." A notice on the side reminds you to drag your
empties to the trashcan.
Windows 3.1 Beer
The world's most popular. Comes in a 16-oz. can that looks a
lot like a Mac Beer's can. Requires that you already own a DOS
Beer. Claims that it allows you to drink several DOS Beers
simultaneously, but in reality, you can drink a few of them,
very slowly, especially slowly if you are drinking the Windows
Beer at the same time. Sometimes, for apparently no reason,
a can of Windows Beer will explode when you open it.
OS/2 Beer
Comes in a 32-oz. can. Does allow you to drink several DOS
Beers simultaneously. Allows you to drink Windows 3.1 Beer
simultaneously too, even if you shake them up. You never
really see anyone drinking OS/2 Beer, but the manufacturer
(International Beer Manufacturing) claims that 9 million
six-packs have been sold.
Windows 95 Beer
You can't buy it yet, but a lot of people have taste-tested
it and claim it's wonderful. The can looks a lot like Mac
Beer's can, but tastes more like Windows 3.1 Beer. It comes
in 32-oz. cans, but when you look inside, the cans only have
16-oz. of beer in them. Most people will probably keep drinking
Windows 3.1 beer until their friends try Windows 95 Beer and
say they like it. The ingredients list, when you look at the
small print, has some of the same ingredients that come in DOS
Beer, even though the manufacturer claims that this is an entirely
new brew.
Windows NT Beer
Comes in 32-oz. cans, but you can only buy it by the truckload.
This causes most people to have to go out and buy bigger
refrigerators. The can looks just like Windows 3.1 Beer's, but
the comapny promises to change the can to look just like Windows
95 Beer's - After Windows 95 Beer starts shipping. Touted as an
"industrial strength" beer, and suggested only for use in bars.
Unix Beer
Drinkers of Unix Beer display fierce brand loyalty, even though
they claim that all the diffeent brands taste almost identical.
Sometimes the pop-tops break off when you try to open them, so
you have to have your own can opener around for those occasions,
in which case you either need a complete set of instructions, or
a friend who has been drinking Unix Beer for several years.
AmigaDOS Beer
The comapny has gone out of business, but their recipe has been
picked up by some weird German company, so now this beer will be
an import. This beer never really sold very well because the
original manufacturer didn't understand marketing. Like Unix
Beer, AmigaDOS Beer fans are an extemely loyal and loud group. It
originally came in a 16-oz. can, but now comes in 32-oz.
cans too. When this can was originally introduced, it appeared
flashy and colorful, but the design hasn't changed much over the
years, so it appears dated now. Critics of this beer claim that
it is only meant for watching TV anyway.
VMS Beer
Requires minimum user interaction, except for popping the top and
sipping. However cans have been known on occasion to explode, or
contain extremely un-beer-like contents. Best drunk in high
pressure development you're told that is proprietary and referred
to an unknown listing in the manuals published by the FDA. Rumors
are that this was once listed in the Physician's Desk Reference
as a tranquilizer, but no one can claim to have actually seen it.
The biggest problem is before you drink any one of them you have
to buy a really expensive bag of chips to go with it.
(author unknown)
________________________________________________
The best way to make your dreams come true is to wake up.
sugeet at maui.net
- ------------------------------
Return to table of contents
From: katecone at maine.com (Kate Cone)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 08:02:02 -0400
Subject: New England Brewpubs
Hi fellow homebrewers!
Just wanted to give you an update on my book Pub Tours New England. My
publisher wants to put it out in spring, 1997, which means I have another
month to update it: add new pubs I don't have and take off brewpubs or
micros that have gone under. I know this is an international digest, but
thought all you New Englanders might have some information about new
pubs/micros coming or recently opened. Contact me off list, please. I
appreciate any help. I want to make this as up to date & comprehensive as I
can.
Kate Cone
Return to table of contents
From: rhampo at ford.com (Rich Hampo)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 08:00:44 -0400
Subject: Cherry Wheat beer
Howdy,
I've got a cherry wheat in secondary. I brewed a normal wheat beer
and then racked to secondary onto 1.5 lb of blanched, mashed cherries.
Volcano-like fermentation ensued and is still going on (more than a
week later). Problem is, half of the cherries are still floating.
Will the cherries all sink later? Or do I need to rack the beer out
from between the floaties and the sediment to a tertiary fermenter
for a further clearing? I'm using Belgian wheat beer
yeast (yeast labs, I forget the number).
Also, any recommendations for aging time? I will keg it and store
it in the fridge.
Thanks for any info!
Richard Hampo
H&H Brewing Ltd.
Return to table of contents
From: Marty Tippin <martyt at sky.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 07:22:40 -0500
Subject: re: RIMS Rest
>From: Phil Slotter <pslotter at ids.net>
>I just finished building a RIMS setup using a 40 qt cooler and PVC
>My question is: during a protein rest at around 120 deg, should I run
>the pump and circulate or just let it sit and "rest"?
I run the pump continuously from dough-in until the end of the sparge, and
that seems to be one of the keys to improving the extraction rate in my
system - I routinely get 34 to 36 pts/lb/gal compared to 28 or 29 in the old
days... My theory is that the continuous recirculation exposes more of the
grain to more of the enzymes and makes conversion more complete and
efficient. Seems intuitive but I've never cared to prove it one way or the
other so I may be wrong. Plus the recirculation keeps the temperature more
uniform throughout the grainbed - no hot spots or cold clumps to worry about.
Keep the flow rate low enough that you don't set the grainbed, stir every
once in a while (maybe every 20 minutes or so) and make sure the
recirculated wort is distributed evenly over the grainbed to avoid any kind
of channeling - I use a copper manifold shaped like a capital "H" laid
horizontally, with a pipe coming up out of the center where the hose from
the pump attaches - each corner of the H has a tee so the wort goes 8
different ways. Works for me.
Good luck!
- -Marty
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Marty Tippin | Tippin's Law #24: Never underestimate the
martyt at sky.net | power of human stupidity.
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Check out my 2-Tier Converted Keg Brewing System Design Plans
and other homebrew gadgets at http://www.sky.net/~martyt
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
From: robtrish at mindlink.bc.ca (Rob Lauriston)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 96 05:54 PDT
Subject: gelatinization temperatures
Gelatinization of barley starch has been mentioned recently, and people
periodically ask about how to treat adjuncts. The following is from
"Malting, Wort Production and Fermentation", which is volume 2 in "An
Introduction to Brewing Science and Technology (Series II)" from The
Institute of Brewing.
Gelatinization temperatures of starches
_________________________________
starches gelatinization temperatures 'C
maize 70-75
sorghum 70-75
rice 68-75
wheat 52-54
barley 61-62
potato 56-69
"[The table...] illustrates why some adjuncts are cooked and others are not.
Since starch conversion in the mash tun occurs most efficiently at about
63-65'C, those starches which gelatinize above 65'C would yield little
extract if they were not heated beyond 65'C (or cooked) to ensure general
liquifaction. Maize, rice or sorghum grits are usually cooked with 5% malt
(or heat-stable alpha-amylases) to keep the cooked grits in a liquid form.
The cooked grits are then transferred to the mash mixture for conversion.
The alpha-amylase of the malt is responsible for the liquefaction during
cooking." pp.50-51.
Hope someone finds this useful,
- -- Rob Lauriston
Return to table of contents
From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 07:33:57 CDT
Subject: Re: Hunter Airstat Experience
I suspect they are not longer sold by Hunter (who makes very reliable
ceiling fans) because they were unreliable. I had nothing but trouble
with mine, and gave up on it, even for its intended use with a window air
conditioner.
I went back to the earlier, simpler, more reliable, fridge controller,
which was described in ZYMURGY some time ago:
Go to a wholesale heating/air conditioning supply house and announce, "I
want a 110 volt thermostat with a remote sensing probe FOR A BEER
COOLER." For about $40 they will sell you a small grey metal box made by
Honeywell or Johnson Controls, with a thermostat dial and a probe, but no
wires. Also buy a 14-gauge appliance/air conditioner extension cord of
whatever length is convenient for you (14 guague minimum required to
prevent fire! Remember that smaller gauge numbers equal larger wire.) and
wire it into the thermostat, following the instruction sheet's wiring
diagram. Make sure to wire the "hot" wire into the switch: If the three
wires are green, white, and black - black is hot. If the 3 wires are
parallel, they will be smooth, middle, and ridged - smooth outside is
hot. Somehow arrange to hang the gizmo in a convenient location outside
the fridge, and route the probe in with duct tape. Complete instructions
in (some old back issue of) ZYMURGY.
The electrician-impaired can find this exact device, already wired, in
some homebrew shops.
Roger Deschner University of Illinois at Chicago rogerd at uic.edu
Aliases: u52983 at uicvm.uic.edu R.Deschner at uic.edu USUICZ3P at IBMMAIL
==== Member, Chicago Beer Society -- 1996 Homebrew Club Of The Year ====
Return to table of contents
From: "Dave Higdon" <DAVEH at qesrv1.bwi.wec.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 09:25:47 EST
Subject: sparging
I am new to mashing and I just made my 2nd partial mash last week.
When I sparged the grains the wort looked grainy but had no husks.
( I used phils false bottom). So I boiled after that . Is recylcling
the wort back through the grains a common pratice?
I tasted the beer after the boil and it did have a noticable tannin
bitternes to it but I hope the blueberrys I will be adding to the
secondary will hide it.
Return to table of contents
From: Bob Waterfall <waterr at albany.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 09:40:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: cider beer combo
jim booth asks:
>
>P.S. No one responded with the historic name for cider and ale
>fermentations and its not in the AOB Dictionary of Beer Terminology.
>Did I dream that it exists? jhb
I can think of two names. I think one is cider/ale and the other is
mead/ale but I don't recall which is which. The two names are scrumpy and
braggot. I'm sure someone will chime in if I've made an error here.>;^}
Bob Waterfall <waterr at albany.net>,
Troy, NY, USA
Return to table of contents
From: David Conger <dconger at hal.hscribe.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 10:26:01 -0400
Subject: RE: Hops
>I have five varietys of hops growing in my back yard and they are growing
>fine except some insects have been munching on them. Does anyone know of an
>organic bug killer that I can use without out making "bug spray beer".
I use a Rotenone/Pyrethrin spray on my hops and tomatoes. Its organic, but
can not be applied within a week or two of harvest. I also use DE
(diatomaceous earth) which can be washed off anytime, but which is a powder
and therefore difficult to apply to the undersides of leaves. DE can be
applied to the ground to keeps slugs away. Ladybugs are a great way to
control aphids.
- -- David Conger
Falls Church, VA
Return to table of contents
From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 08 Jul 96 10:42:23 EDT
Subject: Mashing Time, Iodine,
Brewsters:
Mark E. Dickinson asks about the effect of mashing time on wort composition, a
subject much discussed as a result of incomplete reading ( or perhaps my
originally incomplete writing of the set of conditions) of what I thought some
weeks ago was an innocent comment. In the absence of new facts ( I provided
all I could muster from professional and HB texts), I wanted this issue to go
away, because I wasn't sure it was as important as commentators were apparently
making it appear. Now I see that as AlK feared at least one HBDer is confused
by
our discussion. (AlK are you SURE you didn't put Mark up to this?) I will try
once more to clarify this, so that, I hope, less confusion exists.
A wort held at a certain temperature in the saccharification range FOR LONG
ENOUGH TIME will naturally come to a certain, repeatable (assuming the same
malt
and water composition) composition because the alpha amylase will chew up all
the starch and the beta amylase will chew up all the intermediate starchy
residues, provided by the alpha amylase, it can, before it disappears. I think
we would all agree on this as a simplified, but adequate explanation of what
happens during the saccharification step. The variability of the composition of
the wort is temperature dependent because the beta amylase is denatured at
temperatures in the so-called saccharification range (typically identified as
149 to 158 F). So while the beta amylase is producing fementable sugar during
the saccharification rest, it also is disappearing by an independent reaction.
It is a race to see whether the chopped up starch gets fully converted to sugar
before the beta amylase disappears or not. Since the beta amylase disappears at
the lower temperature more slowly, more of the starch intermediates get turned
into fermentable sugars than at high temperatures. As a result, the lower
saccharification temperatures produce the more fermentable wort IF it is held
at
this temperature for LONG ENOUGH TIME..
My comments have ever ONLY related to those brewers who use Papazian's and
others' advice to use short sacharification times of 10 to 30 minutes or at
least less than an hour. Using short times will increase the likelihood of not
allowing the beta amylase to complete its job. This is particularly true at
higher saccharification temperatures where the beta amylase is at a lower
concentration at any given time into the the saccharification rest. Being lower
in concentration ( even though the forward rate of saccharification is faster)
the OVERALL observed rate at the higher tempereature can be lower, DEPENDING
UPON 1) the type of malt and 2) the composition of the brewing water (liquor)
3)
The thickness of the mash.
The type of malt is important since it controls the original concentration of
the enzymes. A highly converted malt like the British malts start out at a much
lower enzyme concentration than American or continental malts. American six row
barley generally has more enzymes than the American or continental two row
barley variety. Colored malts have a lower enzyme concentration. Not only are
starting enzyme contents different but the ratio of alpha to beta amylase can
be
different for different types of malt. The use of adjuncts will affect the
concentration of enzymes by simple dilution effects etc., etc. Because of the
different starting concentration in each of the malts in a grist, a given grist
( that is a given recipe) will have a different time/ temperature dependence on
the final composition IF it is NOT held long enough at the saccharification
temperature.
The composition of the water is important since enzyme stability is dependent
upon calcium content as well as other ions. Generally pH and Calcium ions in
the
mash exhibit control over the rate of all the hydrolysis reactions and
apparently the rate of denaturization of the various enzymes, and importantly
the beta amylase.
The thickness of the mash is important since the enzymes in question are more
stable in thicker mashes and also importantly, more stable in the mash than in
pure solutions on which many results have been reported. Also, the sugars
produced slow down the rate of conversion as the concentration goes up during
saccharification.
As a result IF you are using very short saccharification times AND you are
experiencing high OG's like 1.020 and up, chances are lengthening the
saccharification time to an hour or longer will do two things 1) increase
efficiency of the extraction of fermentables 2) decrease the FG. The
probability
that you will be having this trouble increases at the higher saccharification
temperatures.
In my original comment, I felt that because of the complexities outlined above
that it was far easier to hold longer at the chosen (by the HBDer)
saccharification temperature as a first step to solving a high OG problem than
to mess around with temperature and wort composition as some contributors
suggested.
That's it. If confusion reigns now, let it!
- -------------------------------------------------------
Mark, as far as using the starch test to identify the end of the
saccharification goes, read Bill Press' excellent comments and more importantly
results of a real experiment witrh real facts in yesterday's HBD.
Bill establishes that the test works, that saccharification takes longer than
or about an hour or so, even with decoction and that barley husks do NOT react
with starch to give a blue-black color as some HB authors would have you
believe. I hate to say it (not really) but a lot of the confusion about this
test results from authors not holding long enough at the saccharification
temperature and from apparently not understanding that starch in the barley
malt
granule is slower to react than the gelatinized starch in solution. Thanks Bill
for providing some facts.
- --------------------------------------------------------
Mike Foster asks what to use to clean up baked on spill overs of malt. I
suggest Easy Off oven cleaner if it can be used on the surface in question (try
it on a area not easily seen) and use the appropriate safety precautions.
Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) also works sometimes. If it doesn't work at
room
temperature warm it a little.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
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From: jformane at students.uiuc.edu (Joe Formanek)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 11:55:42 +0800
Subject: BUZZ Boneyard Brewoff - Accepting entries now
Greetings!
This is the third, and final notice, for the Second Annual BUZZ
Boneyard Brew-off, to be held July 20th at Joe's Brewery, Champaign, IL. We
are currently accepting entries at the Brewery, but will take entries up to
the day of the competition as long as the paperwork has been filled out and
sent to us beforehand. We are still looking for more entries, and more
judges would also be welcome. You WILL have a good time enjoying our BUZZ
hospitality!! There will be further notices to judges regarding details.
The judging MIGHT start a bit later (10-11 AM) depending on number of
entries received by the end of this week.
Please contact me for further info, or visit our homepage at
http://starfire.ne.uiuc.edu/buzz/home.html . I'm attaching a general info
form onto the end of this notice.
Thanks again!
Joe
The Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots
Second Annual Boneyard Brew-Off
This is the official announcement of the second homebrew competition of the
Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots of Champaign, Illinois. The
competition, to be held on July 20 1996, will be a BJCP sanctioned
competition with all the standard AHA categories (except for cider and
sake). In our standard advertising packet is a list of rules, an entry
form, bottle forms and a judge registration form. We need entries, judges
and stewards!
The competition will be held at
Boneyard Brew-Off
c/o Joe's Brewery
706 S. Fifth St.
Champaign IL, 61820.
The judging will commence at 9:00am. We will need two unmarked 10 to 16 oz.
brown or green bottles, with bottle identification forms attached to each
bottle with a rubber band, a completed entry form and $5 sent to Joe's
brewery for each entry. We would appreciate entries as soon as possible
after July 6, but we will accept walk-on entries as long as they are
accompanied by the completed paperwork. Four or more entries by the same
brewer qualify for our special, low, low rate of $4 per entry.
As in our last competition, the highlight will be our special category: The
No One Gets Out Alive High Gravity Brew-Off. In this category we will judge
any beer with a gravity over 1.070 purely on the basis of drinkability and
octane. We will allow any high gravity style, but if you wish the beer to
also be judged in another category, you must separately enter it in that
category. No fortification of the beer is allowed. The winners in this
category will not be eligible for best of show.
Those who contribute their judging expertise will reap many rewards. This
includes a beer sodden tour of Joe's Brewery, a bed for the night (make a
note on the judge form if you need a place to stay) and lunch on Saturday.
For those who wish to come on Friday, we plan to have a party on Friday
night featuring the efforts of our local brewers.
For additional information, feel free to get in contact with our
illustrious leader, Joe Formanek, at
512 Dogwood
Champaign IL, 61821
jformane at students.uiuc.edu
(217) 351-7858
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Joseph A. Formanek President, Boneyard Union of
580 Bevier Hall Zymurgical Zealots (BUZZ)
U of Ill--Urbana/Champaign 2nd annual Boneyard Brewoff!
(217) 244-2879 July 20, 1996 at Joe's Brewery!
Grad student, Professional and Home Brewer, BUZZ president....
What else can I get myself into?????
Now on tap at Joe's Brewery: "A Nice Spiced Ale" and "Tamara Pale Ale"
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
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From: Jeff Frane <jfrane at teleport.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 10:30:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Hop Drying
>From: GSHUTELOCK at aol.com
>Date: Sat, 6 Jul 1996 09:13:30 -0400
>Subject: Drying Hops
>
>It would seem to me that the best way to dry hops would be to use a food
>dehydrator. I'm currently raising a couple varieties of hops (Cascade and
>Fuggles) and if I get any kind of crop this year intended to pop the cones
>into the dehydrator that I use for drying herbs and veggies. The dehydrator
>has a temperature control and fan for even heat distribution. Anyone see any
>reason that this wouldn't work?
>
The hop drying thread is definitely seasonal. :-) Comes around every year
about this time, as folks watch their hops burst into bloom and wind their
way up the garden trellis.
There are some excellent resources available on hops; I believe Mark
Garetz's book has a section provided by Dave Wills on growing hops,
which is definitely worth a look. Dave lives right in the middle of hop
country and has been raising and packaging hops for years and years.
There's no reason at all why a food dehydrator won't work; in fact,
I did it that way myself once years ago (when I was young and foolish
and seemingly had plenty of spare time).
The critical factor in any process is that hops be adequately dried, which
means *very* low numbers on moisture level (check Garetz/Wills and
other sources for the numbers). If the hops are not thoroughly dried,
they will rapidly mold (believe me!) and spoil.
Hops apparently gain in quality from a period of storage; as I recall,
oxidation in the bale is a necessary step in producing good flavor
(once again, check a good text, but this was garnered from conversations
with hop growers in the Willamette Valley). There may be good,
non-obvious reasons why hops are still dried instead of being frozen.
- --Jeff Frane
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From: "Donald A. Put" <daput at pe.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 1996 10:50:27 +0000
Subject: False bottoms and the 4th
* This message contains the file 'post.doc', which has been
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`
end
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