---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  Lambics??? ("Michael W. Jones")
  CP filler  ((Jeff Sturman))
  Brewbie/Basic Info/Time/Agitation (Glen MacNamara)
  CBS comp anouncement ((Tom Fitzpatrick))
  just my 2 cents on the boilover thread (Mike Weintraub)
  Wringing hop/grain bags ((Billy Cole))
  Dry hopping (WattsBrew at aol.com)
  Heater Voltage (orion at mdc.net)
  In Need of A Recipe (<Ron_Barbercheck at MB01.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM>)
  Re: Boiling Over ((J. Matthew Saunders))
  Gypsum (Nancy or Jeff Renner)
  copyright (bob rogers)
  Strange yeast question ("John M. Posing")
  Brewing water still ((William P Giffin))
  wyeast 1728 ((Greg Douhan))
  Overnight mashes (Captain)
  GELATINE (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: Fementowhat? ("Preston M W (Mike)")
  Sorghum beer - an SA homebrewer's point of view (Michel Vandenplas)
  German Purity Law and Water ("DICK KUZARA")
  microwaving to sterilize? ((Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt)))
  RE: Reinheitsgebot (Bill Ridgely 301-827-1391 FAX 301-827-3053)
  Copyright Al (c) ((BRIAN WURST))
  Berkeley Brews (Douglas Thomas)
  Boiling stones (Domenick Venezia)
  Copyrights online (Derek Lyons)
  figuring SO4 ppm from gypsum additions (Gregory King)
  Boiling over (guym at Exabyte.COM)
  Jet burners (guym at Exabyte.COM)

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Michael W. Jones" <keni.mo at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:18:32 -0500
Subject: Lambics???

Hello, 
 
 I am a fairly new homebrewer and, despite this fact, myself a few fellow 
homebrewers are interested in brewing up a Lambic.  We have done some 
reading and realize this to be quite an undertaking, but wish to try it 
anyway.  Does anyone have any advice on how we might get started, any 
recipes, tips etc.? 
 
Michael W. Jones 
keni.mo at worldnet.att.net 
 

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From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 15:28:37 -0600
Subject: CP filler 

I thought I saw plans to assemble a CP filler once on the interent, but 
after a few days of looking for them I am empty handed.  Does anybody know 
where those plans can be found?  I know they are in a back issue of Zymurgy 
but it would be much easier to get them off the internet.  email is 
probably best. 
TIA 
 
jeff 
 
 

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From: Glen MacNamara <gmac at websys.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 17:04:00 -0400
Subject: Brewbie/Basic Info/Time/Agitation

My pal and I are new brewbies, and have been reading the Digest for 
a few weeks and learning a lot.  We've done about 6 or 7 batches with 
some success, and we now have a disagreement on some of what is going 
on. 
 
Currently, our process goes about like this: boil ~1.5 gal water, 
add can liquid malt (usu 3.3 lbs dark or amber), add bag dry malt 
(usu 3 lbs dark or amber), and boil ~15 min.  Add hops (usu ~12% AA) 
and boil ~20 min. Usually we add ~5 lbs honey at this point (we both 
like it strong, and hope to get some of the flavor).  Then add hops 
in hop bag, boil about 10 min more.  Big plastic bucket for a week, 
then carboy for a week, then bottle.  The sludge is left behind for 
both racking and bottling. 
 
Item: We're both pretty broke right now, and can't invest in new 
      equipment for a while. 
Item: There's a lot of people drinking the brew (especially me), 
      so it disappears nearly as fast as it gets created. 
 
Problem: He wants better beer through aging, I want more beer faster. 
 
Question: The bittering hops are loose in the wort and go into the 
          primary fermenter.  Is this good, bad, or indifferent? 
          What effect would extending the time on these (used) hops 
          have? 
 
Question: What effect would extending the time in the secondary have? 
          There usually isn't any bubbling (or very slow) after the 
          week in the primary, and none at all after a week in the 
          secondary.  Is there benefit to letting it sit longer before 
          bottling? 
 
Question: We made a 'blond' beer (usually we make dark).  When we 
          racked it to the secondary, my friend commented how it was 
          difficult to tell the difference between it and the mead 
          next to it (both a sunny yellow).  The carboys stay in a 
          fairly dark, cool, extra bathroom downstairs.  When we came 
          back to bottle a week later, it had turned DARK. VERY DARK. 
          What happened?? BTW, we bottled it anyway, and haven't 
          tasted it yet. 
 
Question: I've read numerous entries on how to safely bubble the beer 
          using airpumps, airstones, and whatnot.  Why?  What benefit 
          is there in A) oxygenating the beer or B) agitating (gently 
          shaking, not insulting) the beer? 
 
 
My apologies if any of these are so obvious anyone should know them, 
or if they are a recent thread and I missed it somehow, or if I 
misunderstood the recent 'bubbling' thread.  Please email me at 
gmac at websys.com if you do not want to bloat the digest with loads 
of basic info. 
 
Thanks much!! 

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From: fitz at fasicsv.fnal.gov (Tom Fitzpatrick)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:44:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: CBS comp anouncement

1996 National Homebrew Club of the Year, 
The Chicago Beer Society presents: 
 
Spooky Brew Review '96 
A BJCP Registered Homebrew Competition 
 
To be held at: 
 
FOUNDERS HILL BREWING CO. 
5200 MAIN ST. 
DOWNERS GROVE,IL 60515 
 
Entry forms available: 
 
Tom Fitzpatrick 
728 Concord St. 
Aurora, IL 60505 
 
(630)896-6255 
 
fitz at fnal.gov 
 
AHA National or similar recipe forms and bottle labels acceptable. 
 
RULES & REGULATIONS 
 
Entries: Two (2) brews in appropriate bottles constitute an entry. 
Acceptable bottles include 10 - 14 ounce, green or brown bottles only. 
Caps must be blank or blacked out with indelible marker. Attach an 
appropriate label by rubber band (no tape), filled out completely and 
legibly, to each bottle entered. Entry is open to all homebrewed beers, 
meads, and ciders not brewed on commercial property. 
 
Entry deadline:  Entries will be accepted between October 5 and 19. 
Walk-in entries will be accepted only if preregistered by sending in 
entry/recipe form(s) and fees by the competition deadline. 
 
Categories: Brews will be judged according to the categories/subcategories 
used for the 1996 AHA National Homebrew Competition. Ribbons will be awarded to
the top three (3) brews in each category receiving at least 25 points. All 
first place beers will advance to the Best of Show round where the top 
three beers will be recognized and the Best of Show winner will receive a 
special ribbon and prize. As in years past, a Spooky Beer category is 
available.
A prize will be awarded to the scariest brew entered.  A new category is also 
available this year: the Smashed Pumpkin category (Worst of Show award). 
Send us your absolute worst beer (we've all made mistakes) and the winner 
(or loser, if you will) will receive a prize. All brews must be drinkable!! 
 
Fees: The fee per entry is $5.00, or $4.00 each when entering 5 or more brews. 
Entry fee for the SPOOKY and SMASHED PUMPKIN category are only $1.00! Send or 
hand deliver entry/recipe form(s), fees, and bottles to Founders Hill Brewing 
Co.
at the above address and to the attention of the Brewmaster - Spooky Brew 
Review.
Make checks payable to Chicago Beer Society. 
 
Judges: Anyone interested in judging at this competition should contact 
Tom Fitzpatrick by mail, phone, or e-mail as shown above. 
 
*Remember, this competition is one of only five competitions in the Midwest 
that
determine Midwest Homebrewer of the Year!  Good luck and good brewing! 
 
- -Tom Fitzpatrick 
BJCP Competition Director 
 
 
 

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From: Mike Weintraub <weintrau at lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 14:42:55 -0700
Subject: just my 2 cents on the boilover thread

There is a technique that I find quite effective in preventing boil overs 
that I have not seen anyone else mention.  I wait to add the hops until the 
wort is boiling vigorously.  This seems to prevent the foam at the top from 
getting as thick, probably due to the strong convection currents in the brew 
pot.  I have not had a boil over since I started doing this. 
Mike Weintraub 
weintrau at lifesci.lscf.ucsb.edu 
 

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From: Billy_Cole at dgii.com (Billy Cole)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 16:29:43 +0100
Subject: Wringing hop/grain bags

 
I brew partial grain beers and have developed a baseline routine that I 
use for all my beers. I usually fill my grain bag with my grains and bring 
it up to 150-160 for about 45 minutes before adding extract and bringing 
to a boil. During this initial 45 minutes, I bring another gallon of water to 
around 175 in a separate pot. I have a fear of missing out on some sugars 
when I pull my grain bag out of the boiling pot so I pour the 1 gallon of 
water over the grain bag while holding the grain bag in the air. Then I 
squeeze the heck out of the grain bag with my hands (yes, it hurts) to 
get all I can from the grain bag. with 4 lbs. of grains in there, there is alot
of wort hiding in that bag. Am I causing aeartion when I shouldn't be? 
Also, is this necessary on my part? I do the same with my hop bags. I 
don't want to lose out on any hop character anywhere. Am I blowing it 
or does everyone do it this way? Thanks for any help. 
 
 
 
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 
Billy Cole / Senior Engineer / Digi International 
ph: 206-867-3893x628 / pager: 206-663-0229 
billyc at dgii.com 
 

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From: WattsBrew at aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:34:08 -0400
Subject: Dry hopping

Good day brewers, 
 I am about to try dry hopping for the first time.  I am using homegrown 
hops.  The hops have already been dried and are packaged in the freezer.  The 
question I have is "do the hops need any special attention or should I just 
chuck them in the secondary?, also is there any risk of contamination from 
homegrown hops?." 
Your collective wisdom is greatly appreciated. 
 
Brewing in Lancaster, NY - Bill Watt 
 

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From: orion at mdc.net
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:45:02 -0400
Subject: Heater Voltage

Kelly Jones Remarked about heater costs: 
 
>While checking out the Web Pages of PlumbingSupply.com (I'm ordering some 
>stainless fittings for my brew system) I noticed they supply the elements 
>discussed here recently for RIMS heaters (see 
>http://PlumbingSupply.Com/elements.html ).  They have extra low density, 
>Incoloy elements (5500W  at  240V) for 24.95.  No affiliation, not even a 
>customer until today. 
 
Kelly, et al.... 
All well and good if you are propared to deal with a whopping 240 volts! 
This is not a toy that gets plugged into the 115 volt outlet! You carefully 
wire it direct into your panel, and hope for the best. Don't get stung by 
this baby! This is a commercial heater with commercial applications. I wouls 
stay away from it for casual home brewing.... 
 
OD 
 
 
            Orville Deutchman 
 
      Brewer of Down Under Ale! 
     Hobby Brewing at its Finest! 
I'm relaxing, and having a homebrew! 
            orion at mdc.net 
 

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From: <Ron_Barbercheck at MB01.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM>
Date: 28 Aug 96 20:11:56 EDT
Subject: In Need of A Recipe

     Has anyone ever seen a recipe for or made beer with the herb *Cost 
     Mary* (also known as Bible Leaf)?  I have an herb garden with 2 huge 
     plants that have plenty of leaves just beggin' to be utilized.  I read 
     in an herb book that Cost Mary was used through the 18th century in 
     English ales (there was a belief that hops were not too good for you). 
     If you do have a clue, are the leaves supposed to be used fresh or 
     dried? 
 
     Right on, right on, to Bill Ridgely re: Sorghum.  Thanks for setting 
     the Eurocentrists straight.  I suggest they check out the Discovery 
     Channel (no spam intended) program Pharaohs' Liquid Gold.  Seems as 
     though Scottish & Newcastle Brewing found the ancient Egyptian brewing 
     tradition interesting enough to fund an archeological team to find out 
     what ingredients were in the beer made way back when. 
 

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From: saunderm at vt.edu (J. Matthew Saunders)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:50:09 -0400
Subject: Re: Boiling Over

John writes: 
 
>First of all, though I did not say so, I do this before adding any hops.  I 
>have found that this "film" or "scum" can coat the hops, reducing 
>utilization.  Also, it just makes things easier to get rid of the "scum" 
>first.  Besides, I rarely put in hops for more than 60 minutes, so they go 
>in only after the wort has been boiling awhile. 
 
I see.  I usually add my hops right before the boil has started--at the 
simmer if you will.  I've found that I get significantly more bittering 
doing it this way.  I have no idea why.  However, if I'm using whole 
flowers as opposed to plugs or pellets,  I throw a handful in right after I 
get the rolling boil--then no probs.  (When I tried this with plugs or 
pellets....the resulting disaster convinced me it was a BAD idea.) 
 
> 
>If you put in the hops right away (first wort hopping or some variant), 
>would there be any hop component in the "scum"?  It may be, but I don't 
>know of any reason to think that is the case. 
>Anyone out there know for sure? 
 
I've tasted the "scum".  It definately is bitter. 
 
> 
>I have thought that this "scum" is related to "hot break" and that you 
>don't lose anything by getting rid of it, as you don't want hot break in 
>your fermenter anyway. 
 
I think that you are right.  I've found the more "scum" I have in a boil, 
the larger quantity of hot break I end up with. 
 
Any other thoughts out there? 
 
Cheers! 
Matthew. 
 
 

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From: Nancy or Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:53:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Gypsum

Al K said: 
>  1 teaspoon of gypsum (calcium sulphate) in 1 gallon of water will give 
>  about 28 ppm of SO4. 
 
That looked way off, so I checked Terry Foster's _Pale Ale_.  He says that 
1 gram of gypsum per gallon will give 150 ppm sulphate (and 60 ppm 
calcium).  He also ways that 1 tsp weighs 5 grams, so 1 tsp gypsum per 
gallon will give about *750 ppm* sulphate.  Looks like a brain cramp, Al. 
 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu 
 
 

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From: bob rogers <bob at carol.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 1996 20:54:36 -0400
Subject: copyright

Scott says: 
>>This line is simply stating that said noun from the first line has taken 
the time to register said nouns entire posting to the HBD with the US 
copyright office. << 
 
this is not correct. if any of you want to know more about copyright point 
your browser at 
http://www.cis.ohio-state.edu/hypertext/faq/usenet/ 
and find the copyright faq, which is a good introduction to the subject. 
 
bob - brewing in the heart of the bible belt 
bob rogers   bob at carol.net 
 

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From: "John M. Posing" <jmposing at colint.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 20:29:05 -0500
Subject: Strange yeast question

Hey everyone. I noticed something kinda strange last night, that I hope 
someone can explain. I haven't bottled for awhile, just kegs. But I put 
up a batch of Barleywine for this winters enjoyment in 7 ozs. While 
moving them, I noticed that yeast had clung to one side of each bottle 
and that it was always oriented in the same direction, NE. Can someone 
explain why? 
- -- 
John M. Posing 
jmposing at colint.com 
 

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From: bill-giffin at juno.com (William P Giffin)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:46:36 cst
Subject: Brewing water still

Good evening, 
 
>>Al K 
 you need to make sure there is enough 
sulphate in the water and then you may have to adjust the pH down with 
calcium carbonate so the pH is not too low (it depends on your water). 
<< 
I hope you mean mash and adjust the pH down?  Am I supposed to jump up? 
 
Still the answer to the question hasn't been answered.  How  much SO4  is 
required to "Burtonize" the water?  60 ppm.  150 ppm or 270 ppm.  What 
does the magnesium in Burton water have to do with the bittering of the 
beer? 
>>Al K: 
 Alternatively, you could add lactic or phosphoric acids 
to lower pH without adding sulphate.  I believe that these acids do pull 
calcium out of the water (AJ?) so that you could end up with not enough 
to protect enzymes or form beerstone. 
>> 
I use lactic acid to adjust the sparge water, works great helps keep the 
tannins down.  If your water has little or no calcium such as my water 
and Pilsen water and you do not want SO4 in the beer then what is the 
alternative.  Beerstone has not been a problem, and filters make pretty 
beer fast. 
 
>>Al K: 
Correct, but it does make it *easier* to brew. 
<< 
 
I have done both I find very little difference in using an acid rest, 
adding gypsum or lactic acid.  How and why do you think it is easier? 
Then what?  If you really want it easy you go to your friendly packy 
store and you buy the beer.  I don't brew to make it easy I brew to brew 
beer that is as good or better then commercial examples and if it is not 
I dump the beer I have brewed!! 
 
Lets go in another tack.  Must I adjust my very soft water in order to 
brew Munich style beers?  Why?  I have brewed some very lovely bocks and 
dunkels and helles with no adjustment at all.  Should you adjust soft 
water for  these beers? 
 
Still haven't answered the question.  I want to know how much is enough? 
 
Bill 

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From: gdouhan at mail.wsu.edu (Greg Douhan)
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 19:10:33 -0700
Subject: wyeast 1728

        Any info on this yeast(1728) would be appreciated. Private e-mail 
would be great. Thanks 
Greg Douhan 
 
 

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From: Captain <captain at iquest.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 96 22:14 EST
Subject: Overnight mashes

>A friend and I tried an overnight mash for a stout the other day, and so 
>far things seem to be fine (mash was sweet after 10 hours, no off 
>flavors).  We're going to try again with a more delicately flavored beer, 
>but has anyone tried this before, and what were the results?  I'm 
>concerned about astringent flavors and components that would contribute to 
>a greater-than-normal amount of haze.  Thanks in advance... 
 
I use a cooler for a mash/lauter tun and do overnight mashes all the time. 
Typically I use 25 to 35 lbs of grain for a 10 gallon batch O' brew. I'll 
heat my mash water to 180 degrees and mix at a rate of 1 qt. per pound of 
grain. It almost always mashes in at around 153 degrees. By 9:00 the next 
morning, the temp has usually not dropped below 148 to 149 degrees. There's 
a lot of mass and it's a good cooler. I like this procedure. It saves me a 
lot of time on brew day. 
 
 
********************************* 
"Beer... it's not just for breakfast anymore." 
                            Jim Kirk 
               captain at iquest.net 
********************************* 
 

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From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 1996 21:53:15 -0700
Subject: GELATINE

I have a question for the Dr Gelatine: 
 
Now that I have no fear of killing my gelatine or causing it unnecessary 
pain and anguish by boiling it, I have developed another quandry. 
 
Because my fermenter is only 10 gallons, I brew my beer allowing for the 
addition of one gallon of brewing water at kegging time. 
 
Normally, I boil the water the night before I am going to keg to allow 
it to cool and precipitate some of the stuff in my well water.  There 
is usually a layer of sludge on the bottom and some stuff floating on 
the top.  Careful pouring leaves the sludge behind. 
 
Now the problem is that if I add gelatine to the boiling water and let 
it cool, the precipitate that settles out seems to be more substantial 
and sticks to the bottom of the kettle like glue. 
 
The question is:  Did I "use up" the gelatine by letting the water 
cool over night or will the brewing water with gelatine still function 
as a fining agent? 
 
No guessing now. 
 
js 
 
- -- 
Visit our WEB pages: 
Beer Stuff:  http://dezines.com/ at your.service/jsp/ 
Astronomy:   http://user.mc.net/arf/ 
 

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From: "Preston M W (Mike)" <mpreston at ford.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 06:54:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Fementowhat?

Someone with entirely too much time with nothing to brew wrote...... 
 
> Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... 
 
 Now, stand on your head and 
> have someone step on your left earlobe. Hard. Suddenly the rest makes sense: 
> Attobreweries are not related to SI at all. These are the guys that win all 
> the competitions and get all the attoboys. Decibreweries, like Al K, only 
> brew in the winter. Centibreweries brew prohibition beer to save money. Nano 
> - - and Millibreweries are run by women; nanos having children. It should be 
> obvious that femtobreweries are run by feminists. 
> 
> Did I miss any? 
 
Missed just one. The Geekobrewer. That's someone who has more than one 
brewer's software program (and uses them all), and has their own web 
page with the majority of the contents dedicated to beer/brewing ;p 
- -- 
"lager sir is regal" 
    Mike Preston 

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From: Michel Vandenplas <mvdp at maties.sun.ac.za>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 12:19 +0200
Subject: Sorghum beer - an SA homebrewer's point of view

 
In response to the the messages of Terry Tegner and Bill Ridgely within 
recent digest issues I'd like add the following comments. 
 
Sorghum beer is South Africa's original homebrew and only true indigenous 
beer. I'm therefore rather proud of it. It may not be a Belgian lambic but it 
is, when tradtionally made, "spontaneously fermented". It has a unique 
flavour and is ,IMHO, highly drinkable and thirst-quenching when fresh. A few 
days later, however, things change for the worse. It becomes far more 
alcoholic and sour and definitely an acquired taste. Mmm...hints of the 
difference between Belgian Faro Lambic versus Old Lambic? 
 
As to it not being a beer, I think many commercial lager brewers would 
like to encourage that view. However, substitute sorghum malt for barley malt 
and the brewing process is very similar. Sales of sorghum beer are about 4 
times higher than lager beer in South Africa, but as Bill has mentioned, 
there seems be growing culture that it is an inferior product to be seen 
drinking. A sad state of affairs in the eyes of a homebrewer who realises 
that this beer has played an important role in his countries cultural and 
homebrewing heritage. Finally, it remains a highly nutritious and 
thirst-quenching beer, the only beer-style unique to Africa, something 
well worth preserving and trying. 
 
Michel Vandenplas 
Amateur Brewing Association, Cape Town, South Africa 
 
 
 
 

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From: "DICK KUZARA" <DICK_KUZARA at itd.sterling.com>
Date: 29 Aug 1996 06:48:28 -0600
Subject: German Purity Law and Water

                      Subject:                              Time:  6:36 AM 
  OFFICE MEMO         German Purity Law and Water ...         Date:  8/29/96 
 
There has been much discussion about the Reinheitsgebot.  I would like to know 
if conditioning additives (adding gipsum to the mash and/or lactic acid to the 
sparge water) violate this law.  Any comments? 
 

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From: toml at fcmc.COM (Tom Lochtefeld (Risk Mgt))
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 07:57:37 EDT
Subject: microwaving to sterilize?

Does anybody know anything about sterilizing bottles, hops, hopbags, 
brewing parts etc. in the microwave?  Would this be an effective way to 
kill "nasties" that can cause infection in the brewing process? 
 
Regards, 
 
 
Tom 
 

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From: Bill Ridgely 301-827-1391 FAX 301-827-3053 <RIDGELY at A1.CBER.FDA.GOV>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 07:45:41 EST
Subject: RE: Reinheitsgebot

Considering all of the discussion lately regarding the finer 
points of the Reinheitsgebot, it seems appropriate to put this 
into some historical context. 
 
The Reinheitsgebot was proclaimed in the year 1516 to prohibit 
German brewers from putting bones and blood and other foul matter 
into their beer. 
 
At the same time, the Inca empire in South America, a 
civilization which had attained a very high degree of technology 
without a written language or knowledge of the wheel, and which 
boasted an economic system based entirely on a beer made from 
masticated corn, was reaching its zenith. 
 
This leads one to wonder which society was truely the more 
advanced. 
 
Cheers! 
 
Bill Ridgely 
Alexandria, VA 
 
 

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From: brian.wurst at aquila.com (BRIAN WURST)
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 08:07:00 -0600
Subject: Copyright Al (c)

>Isabel asks about my copyright. 
 
>You apparently are unaware of the fact that there is a company selling 
>back issues of HBD on CD-ROM.  This is a violation of my copyright as 
<blah, blah, blah> 
 
Boy, my sides are hurting!  I just got back from the bank and I was 
laughing all the way there *and* back.  Had to deposit the $MILLIONS 
I've made putting the HBD on CD-ROM.  Yeah, Al, I'm the guy whose done 
it - grab the phone and call your lawyers!  HaHaHaHaHaHa!!! 
It would take quite an imagination to believe that someone could make 
any sort of money off of something that is so ubiquitous and available. 
Al, your paranoia is showing.... 
 
>Next time you have a complaint or personal question, I suggest you 
>use private email and not waste HBD bandwidth and the time of all 
>its subscribers. 
 
Yessir, Captain Netiquette, just as soon as you comply with your own 
suggestion.  Why not toss in a taunt for good measure? 
 
>Look out Isabel... here it comes again!!! 
>Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas 
 
You did, you cheeky devil! 
(Excerpts are provided without your express permission...that's another 
for your lawyers.) 
 
Brian Wurst (brian.wurst at aquila.com) 
"Nature has formed you, desire has trained you, fortune has preserved 
you for this insanity."  -Cicero 

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From: Douglas Thomas <thomasd at uchastings.edu>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 07:50:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Berkeley Brews

Since moving to Berkeley 2 years ago, I have been hearing about the 
brewpubs that were planned to move in.  At that time, Hart (Pyramid) 
Brewing and Pacific Coast.  Now I also hear of one called Albany Brew Pub 
and Barbary Coast.  Supposedly, they were to open mid to late September, 
but the only one I have seen any significant progress on is Hart's 
establishment.  Does anyone out there have any ideas on when these are 
going to open? 
Also, on the local brew scene here, I just had a Bison Brewing "Juniper 
Smoked Ale."  It was very smooth with a slight herbal bite.  Not too 
hoppy, but high aroma.  Great counter to Indian food.  I was told that 
besides adding some actual berries and boughs to the brew tank, that the 
important step here was "Smoke clensing" of the tank.  How does this 
work?  Is it somewhat like burning a sulfar candle in wine casks? 
 
that's all 
 
Doug Thomas 

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From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 08:35:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Boiling stones

 
The tendency to boil over can be reduced (not eliminated!) by the use of 
boiling stones.  I throw about 5 old, bent bottle caps into the boil (rip 
out the plastic if it concerns you).  These will act as nucleation sites 
for large bubbles and as such reduce the risk of boil over. 
 
Domenick Venezia 
Computer Resources 
ZymoGenetics, Inc. 
Seattle, WA 
venezia at zgi.com 
 
 

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From: Derek Lyons <elde at hurricane.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 08:44:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Copyrights online

At 10:35 AM 8/28/96 -0600, you wrote: 
> 
>*The third line "Copyright 1996 Al Korzonas" seems pretty straight forward: 
> 
>This line is simply stating that said noun from the first line has taken 
>the time to register said nouns entire posting to the HBD with the US 
>copyright office. By doing this, all persons or people wishing to use or 
>quote from said nouns HBD post should ask for permission from said nouns 
>lawyers or face criminal charges and federal copyright infringement. 
> 
 
Actually the legal protections do not entirely kick in unless said noun 
actually fills out the paperwork and submits it to the appropriate authority. 
 
Also the 'Fair Use' doctrine allows quite a bit of usage of said nouns posts 
without requiring permissions from said noun. 
 

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From: Gregory King <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 12:08:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: figuring SO4 ppm from gypsum additions

In HBD #2164 Al Korzonas <korz at pubs.ih.lucent.com> wrote: 
 
>1 teaspoon of gypsum (calcium sulphate) in 1 gallon of water will give 
>about 28 ppm of SO4. 
 
According to Papazian in TNCJOHB (around p. 270 or so) 1 tsp of gypsum 
dissolved in 5 gallons of water increases the SO4 concentration by 135 ppm, 
so 1 tsp in 1 gallon would boost SO4 by 675 ppm, not 28 ppm (looks like 
Al divided 135 by 5 instead of multiplying). 
 
But before taking that number as the gospel, consider this.  Gypsum and 
two other commonly-used brewing salts are hydrates, which means that one 
or more water molecules are an integral part of their crystal structures. 
The three salts I'm talking about are: 
 
    CaCl2*2H2O  calcium chloride 
    CaSO4*2H2O  calcium sulphate (gypsum) 
    MgSO4*7H2O  magnesium sulphate (Epsom salt) 
 
If you get out your periodic tables and do the math (don't worry, I already 
did it) you'll find that: 
 
    1 g CaCl2*2H2O contains 0.755 g CaCl2 and 0.245 g H2O 
    1 g CaSO4*2H2O contains 0.791 g CaSO4 and 0.209 g H2O 
    1 g MgSO4*7H2O contains 0.488 g MgSO4 and 0.512 g H2O 
 
What's the point of this chemistry mini-lesson?  If you forget that these 
salts contain water in their crystal structures, you will make mistakes when 
figuring out the amounts to use when adjusting your brewing water (the water 
will have less ppms than you think you have added). 
 
If any of you know accurate mass-to-volume ratios for these three salts I can 
figure out whether the ppm numbers Papazian gives on this page (again, that's 
p. 270 or so) are correct. 
 
Greg King 
gking at arserrc.gov 
 

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From: guym at Exabyte.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 11:39:42 MDT
Subject: Boiling over

     J. Matthew Saunders writes: 
 
     > John writes: 
 
     >> Let me repeat my own method for avoiding boilovers: 
     >> 
     >> Skim the scum that forms just before it gets roiling. 
 
     <snip> 
 
     > This certainly works, but I think that a significant portion of that 
     > "scum" is hop residue.  If you skim that gook before it really gets a 
     > chance to do its thing, you significanty reduce the bitterness of 
     > your brew. 
 
Unless, like most (I think) of us all grain brewers, you boil the wort for     
     some period prior to adding hops (I usually boil 10 to 15 minutes - long 
     enough to get a good hot break).  In this case, no hop constituents are 
     removed by the skimming, which I do.  By the time I add the hops (whole), 
     the wort has settled down and stopped trying to get out of the kettle.  I 
     use a half-barrel converted keg for a kettle on a jet burner so this is 
important to me. I had a 5 gallon batch boil over once in the 15.5 gallon      
     kettle.  I usually brew 10 gallon batches these days and I watch it more 
     closely! 
 
     -- 
     Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym at exabyte.com 
     "And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert." 
 

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From: guym at Exabyte.COM
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 96 11:47:23 MDT
Subject: Jet burners

Sorry, I missed the request for information on these. I have a jet burner      
     (King Kooker I think) and, while it is admittedly gas hungry, I have no 
     problems with soot or flame color (always blue).  I can turn it down and 
also use the deflector plate for fine adjustment. Also, I have had exactly     
zero problems with scorching. If you want to get to boiling quickly, these     
are hard to beat. I could see having a ring style burner as well if I set      
     up a RIMS or manual multi-vessel brewery.  Bottom line is that I am 
     perfectly happy with my Harrier. ;-) 
 
     -- 
     Guy McConnell /// Huntersville, NC /// guym at exabyte.com 
     "Run too fast, and shove too hard, you'll be pushing up the daisies in 
     some old bone yard." 
 

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