---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  There should be two digests (Anton Schoenbacher)
  Re: getting along (Jeff Frane)
  [none] ()
  Chillers/priming (<AAB1 at chrysler.com>)
  To Aerate or Not to Aerate (MaltyDog at aol.com)
  [none] ()
  Re: "Old Yeast" / ESB Yeast (chris)
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  Re: Things that Matter  (Spencer W Thomas)
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  obnoxious, Instant Lager, and the Aussie Recirculator ("Gregory, Guy J.")
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  Dixie Cup/Great NW HB Comp. results? (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
  [none] ()
  Re: Carbonation question (Paul Mansour)
  Re: How Hard to boil (Paul Mansour)
  Re: Aroma Hops/Size of HBD (Paul Mansour)
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  Is there truth in brew your own mag? ((Greg Douhan))
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  [none] (uucp at uu4.psi.com)
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  [none] ()
  IPA and Acronyms (smurman at best.com)
  Needed: kettle gaskets ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Copy of: Insulated mash tuns (Michael Newman)
  HOPS-BOPS Results? ("Curt Speaker")
  Recirculation (Jim Thomas)
  raising gravity with extract ("Robert DeNeefe")
  RE: Needed: kettle gaskets ("CHUCK HUDSON HEAD BREWER AND CO/OWNER OF HOMEBREW HAVEN ALBUQUERQUE NM.")
  spectators in the free seats hiss first (Jon Vilhauer)
  [none] ((HAROLD B. PARK))
  boston pubs & heart's chiller (HOUCK KEITH A)
  Ozark Regional Competition (Dave Justice)
  Time-limited brewing ("Ray Robert")
  What mag to buy? ("Ray Robert")
  Re: Poison Frog Questions,Pasteur and Crabtree, liar ("David R. Burley")

For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
  homebrew at aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
  homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
  and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.

Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
  a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
  then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner at aob.org.

OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
  http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
  http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
  info at aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.

ARCHIVES:
  At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp.  Also
  http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo at aob.org by e-mail.

COPYRIGHT:
  As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
  original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
  Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
  collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
  may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
  posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.


----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Anton Schoenbacher <aschoenb at eecs.wsu.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 10:36:30 PST
Subject: There should be two digests

I have come to the conclusion that there should be two Homebrew Digests. 
 
There should be Homebrew Digest, this is the place where people talk about 
brewing and are nice to eachother.  This is the place where if you have a 
question you don't have to be afraid to ask it.  This is the Digest you 
subscribe to if you wanted useful info on homebrewing (no matter what type 
you like to do). 
 
Then there should be the other one, The flamming Digest.  This is where 
you go if you want to get into somebodies face becuase they don't have 
the same opinion as you.  This is where you go if you could care less 
about conveying usefull info.  This is where you go if you want to clutter 
up a digest with your opinion that most people don't care about. 
 
I'm sorry If this sounds bad.  I'm sure there are alot of others who 
aggree with me.  The digest has been turning into peoples strong opinions 
about trivial things.  I know these people have much valuable information 
which can help everyone.  I am begging, please stop.  Most of the digests 
have been flame wars lately, I wish it was the way it use to be...more 
info less opinions.  It looks like one guy has already quit (temporarily) 
because of this. 
- -- 
*****Anton Schoenbacher*****aschoenb at eecs.wsu.edu***** 

Return to table of contents


From: Jeff Frane <jfrane at teleport.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 10:45:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: getting along

 
>From: Terry White <brew at buffnet.net> 
> 
>I have subscribed to this digest for about six months and in general I 
>find it a great source of ideas and inspiration but what is with all the 
>bickering.   I think everyone should take a deep breath and try to 
>remember IT IS A HOBBY!!!  All this arguing is just a waste of time. We 
>might even get more people posting ideas if they weren't scare of someone 
>jumping down their throat if they make a mistake. So stop all the stupid 
>bickering and make some beer. It is a HOBBY and if it causes you this 
>much stress maybe you should find something else to do with your time, I 
>hear needle point has a calming effect. 
> 
Terry reminded me of my long-ago days being involved with science fiction 
fans.  There were two ancient acronyms (hope I get 'em right), which summed 
up the different approaches to life: 
 
FIAWOL = Fandom Is A Way Of Life 
FIJAGDH = Fandom Is Just A Goddamn Hobby 
 
Lot of opportunity for conflict there, especially among the group who 
subscribes to the former: HBIAWOL or BIAWOL. 
 
I find it valuable to simply check out every once in a while, take 
a few months off from reading or posting to the HBD.  Go out and 
try something different.  Gives one some real perspective. 
 
- --Jeff Frane 
 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: <AAB1 at chrysler.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96  14:25:17 EST
Subject: Chillers/priming

 
 
Howdy all, I've been lurking for a few weeks now and have generated enough 
questions and comments that I figured it's time to post. So far I've brewed 
up 6 batches with what I would consider excellent succes except for the last 
two. 
 
My previous batch was an Octoberfest following Charlies recepie from his first 
book, (the winky-dink to be specific) All went well, we used wyeast 2??? Bavari
an Lager. Racked after about a week then lagered at above optimum temp for abou
t a month after that. We bottled some really clear beer about a week ago and 
tested a bottle yesterday -> totally flat and sweet from the priming sugar. I'm
guessing that the yeast conked out on me and I'll have to put a few drops of 
reconstituted dry yeast in each bottle to prime. 
 
I also brewed my first mash extract yesterday also following a Papazian recepie
(Mongolian bock from Companion). Boy oh boy.. took way longer than I thought, 
temperatures were all over the place, but i did get complete conversion and 
I'm not worried that it will turn out bad, however, while transfering to 
the carboy, i managed to transfer alot of trub. We tried the whirlpool thang 
but couldn't get it to work without clogging. So, heres the question.  Instead 
of having the same non-conditioning problems with this batch as last, I would 
like to save some of the dregs from this batch, collecting when racking to 
secondary, and re-pitch at bottling time to avoid the problem I'm having 
with my Ocoberfest. Questions are: 
 
1) is re pitching an eyedropper full of dry yeast into my non-primed octoberfes
t a good Idea, 
 
2) is pitching at bottling time for my bock a good Idea, and how should I go 
about saving the Dregs? Just pitch some into a starter wort, let it sit at 
room temp for a day, toss it into the fridge untill one day before bottle time,
re pitch into a starter or what. 
 
Now here comes the comment section. Whats all this talk about whether cold 
water should enter the top or the bottom of your immersion chiller? Around 
here, we've been arguing for months on whether entering from the left works 
better than entering from the right ;5) !! (Hmmm fit that one into your 
paradigm)No seriously, I made an el cheepo wort chiller out of like 12' of 
3/8" copper with the cool stuff entering from the top (althougha left to right 
cooler may quell all of these silly discussions) and managed to bring about 
3 gallons of boiling wort down to <79F in about 15 minutes, I agitated the 
whole kettle in a wash basin that was collecting the still cold chiller wast 
water. When I wasn't agitating, the was water got cold. as soon as I started 
swirling, the exit water from the chiller got significantly warmer. Hmmm. I 
wonder what the most important factor in imersion chilling is? 
 
Anyways, Thanks for any help, 
 
 
Andy Birko 
 

Return to table of contents


From: MaltyDog at aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 14:48:18 -0500
Subject: To Aerate or Not to Aerate

I have a question for the assembled HBD masses. I have racked my Imperial 
Stout (starting gravity 1.111!) from the primary to the secondary fermenter. 
All activity with the primary yeast had stalled out at 1.050, two weeks after 
starting the fermentation. I am preparing a fresh dose of yeast to knock the 
gravity down another 20 points or so. 
 
My question is, should I aerate the wort when adding the new yeast? Or, at 
this late date in the gave, will that cause oxidation in the beer? 
 
Thanks in advance for your help, 
 
Bill Coleman 
MaltyDog at aol.com 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: chris <king1679 at superlink.net>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 16:02:39 -0500
Subject: Re: "Old Yeast" / ESB Yeast

IMO I would not choose the Irish for the yeast to use in the ESB. It 
would not be the worst choice but also would not be my first. Some 
people like to use the same yeast for different beers because it worked 
well the last time, or in a brewery because of cost and cross 
contamination but we are home brewers ; ) 
Anyway my choice for an ESB would be to use WYeast ESB (Do not remember 
the nimber off hand). I have never used the London, but that "might" be 
alright? I would not use any of the American yeast for this style such 
as Chico (1056) or the one used by Pugsley. They would make an alright 
beer but not a true ESB. 
Chris King 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 17:17:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Things that Matter 

I seem to recall a posting some years back, where someone ended up 
with beer that was cold on the bottom and hot at the top, from using 
an immersion chiller where the water entered at the bottom without 
stirring. 
 
Just one data point. 
 
=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI        (spencer at umich.edu) 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: "Gregory, Guy J." <GGRE461 at ecy.wa.gov>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 15:28:00 PST
Subject: obnoxious, Instant Lager, and the Aussie Recirculator

 
My personal pledge: 
I'll attempt to engage in no more obnoxious authoritarian BS as long as I 
can.  I promise that I'll engage in no personal attacks, unless of course my 
mother in law begins posting to this forum.  I'll forgive and forget, and 
extract only those gems of information which are supported by data.  I'll 
ignore those which are not supported by data, and those which I don't 
understand.  I'll relax, brew in plastic if I want, and know that most of my 
brewing technique is lousy enough that effects of minutae at this time will 
not measurably negatively impact my beer.  Hopefully, someday, they will. 
   I'll also probably try out every neato idea I read, and proceed on my own 
to make better beer.  I won't bitch about the AHA, HSA, Wyeast, or RIMS. 
I'll laugh at babcock's jokes.    I'll not waste bandwith any more.  And I 
will type with a happy heart and hope for my fellow brewers. 
 
The recent yeast thread, started by JSchmidling, about pitching on top of 
other yeast: 
A couple of questions....is there any taste difference to these fast 
ferments?   Do you chill your wort down real low (say, 5 degrees C or so) 
prior to pitching? Does the increased fermentation activity generate 
additional heat in the beer?  I'm gonna try this with a porter this weekend, 
using Wyeast London yeast in the secondary now fermenting a lighter ale. 
 
For those interested, the Aussie recirculation system (which I think is 
really groovy) is similar to vertical circulation wells used to extract 
volatile chemicals from ground water.  I found a paper on flow regarding 
these wells, with integrals, differential equations, and everything, 
describing flow within these kinds of systems.  It was written  by Philip 
and Walter, in the Sept.-Oct. 1992 issue of Ground Water, v. 30, no. 5. 
  The solution to the flow problem seems relevant to model wort flow in this 
system. 
 
Cheers. 
 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter at web.camasnet.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 17:08:22 -0800
Subject: Dixie Cup/Great NW HB Comp. results?

Attention Foam Rangers HB Club members or readers in the Seattle area: 
 
Are the results of either the recent Dixie Cup or Great NW HB competitions 
posted anywhere online?  I checked the Foam Rangers home page and it hasn't 
been updated in three weeks. The Great NW competition was a companion event 
of the Great NW Microbrew Invitational - can't tell if there's a club 
behind it. 
 
 
 
Dan Ritter <ritter at camasnet.com> 
 
Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery 
Grangeville, Idaho 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: Paul Mansour <pmansour at mansours.com.au>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:21:43 +1000
Subject: Re: Carbonation question

G'day again, 
 
In 2251 Michael asked about his under-gassing problem. 
 
Firstly, even in an "All-malt" brew I prime my bottles with white cane 
sugar.  The small amount used seem to make no difference to the taste or 
mouth-feel but is always, by nature, of a consistent fermentability. 
 
Your basement may be colder than your last place and this will make a 
big difference considering that you only leave it one and a half weeks 
which I think is a bit short. Bare minimum of two, preferably longer. 
You say you get a "Shhh" sound when you open the bottle - it is obvious 
that CO2 has been produced but it takes a while to dissolve into the 
beer so my humble advice is put it in a warmer place (20C/70F) and/or 
leave it longer before you drink it - very hard sometimes! 
 
Cheers, 
 
Paul 
- -- 
Paul Mansour 
Sydney, Australia 
EMAIL:  pmansour at mansours.com.au 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Paul Mansour <pmansour at mansours.com.au>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:05:28 +1000
Subject: Re: How Hard to boil

G'day all, 
 
Steven Bortnick asked in 2251 "How hard to boil". 
I remember my second form (Year 8?) science teacher telling me that as 
water boils at 100C (212F) if you apply more heat you can't make the 
water any hotter than that, no matter how fast the water is boiling. 
You will just produce more steam and use more gas. 
 
This obviously would apply to wort as well.  I'm not an expert, but if 
temperature is the critical part a slow boil will do the same as a fast 
boil.  If it is more important that the wort is rolling quickly then 
thats a different matter.  Again, any experts? 
 
Cheers 
 
Paul 
 
- -- 
Paul Mansour 
Sydney, Australia 
EMAIL:  pmansour at mansours.com.au 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Paul Mansour <pmansour at mansours.com.au>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:38:08 +1000
Subject: Re: Aroma Hops/Size of HBD

G'day yet again, 
 
In HBD 2252 Cory Chadwell asked about aroma hops. 
 
Any low alpha acid hops will give you aroma/flavour without the 
bitterness.  Your home brew shop will be able to tell you the AAU 
percentage (bitterness) for their hops.  Be sure not to boil them 
because then you will lose the aroma and flavour but be left with the 
bitterness.  I have been told it is best not to put them in the 
fermenter until fermentation has slowed down because you will lose the 
aroma through your air lock.  I have tried a few varieties like Saaz, 
Hallertau, Hersbruker but now I nearly only use Saaz (must be Czech 
grown) even though they are sometimes hard to get here - I reckon you 
can't go past them. 
 
Some people are complaining about the length and frequency of the HBD. 
I agree it takes a while to go through it all but I wouldn't miss it for 
the world.  I use the HBD Browser program which I got from The Brewery 
on the net.  It makes reading the HBD so much easier.  You see all the 
topics at the top of the screen with the text down the bottom, you just 
click on the topics you want to read.  If you aren't using it yet I 
recommend it. Thank you Don Hatlestad for writing it and letting us have 
it for free - aren't Home Brewers wonderful people?! 
 
Cheers, 
 
Paul. 
- -- 
Paul Mansour 
Sydney, Australia 
EMAIL:  pmansour at mansours.com.au 
 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: gdouhan at mail.wsu.edu (Greg Douhan)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:47:29 -0800
Subject: Is there truth in brew your own mag?

I have not been really keeping up with this thread but I have heard, from a 
reliable source (I think), that Brew Your Own is the only true peer 
(meaning scholar types and not hobbiest turned science guy) reviewed 
magazine. Is this true? What about BT? 
Greg Douhan 
 
 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: uucp at uu4.psi.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 96 23:16:29 -0500
Subject: [none]

Subject: UUCP job killed 
To: Homebrew at aob.org 
 
Message from UUCP on uu4 Mon Oct 28 23:16:29 1996 
 
UUCP job 
 uu2711C451e 
for system 
 uu2711 
requested by 
 daemon 
has been killed. 
 
 
============================================================================= 
    Your mail could not be delivered to host uu2711.UUCP after 14 days. 
              A copy of the failed message is attached. 
============================================================================= 
 
 
The job was 
 rmail slick at no.inhale.com 
>From Homebrew at aob.org  Mon Oct 14 22:56:44 1996 
Received: from bacchus.aob.org by uu4.psi.com (5.65b/4.0.940727-PSI/PSINet) via
SMTP;
        id AA06019 for slick at no.inhale.com; Mon, 14 Oct 96 22:56:44 -0400 
To: slick at no.inhale.com 
From: Homebrew at aob.org 
Subject: Your Message has been received 
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 96 2:55:18 GMT 
Sender: Homebrew at aob.org 
Message-Id:  <9610150255.aa22420 at bacchus.aob.org> 
Source-Info:  From (or Sender) name not authenticated. 
 
Your message, which follows, has been received and will be posted to the list. 
The following Subjects are currently scheduled for the next digest: 
 
  001 -- Re: water treatment 
  002 -- brewing small batches 
  003 -- How to remove bungs from used 5L mini kegs 
  004 -- Bergamots - vermin! 
 
After processing, your message to be posted is: 
 
Received: from [134.134.248.3] by bacchus.aob.org id aa22389; 
          14 Oct 96 20:55 MDT 
Received: from ptdcs2.intel.com (ptdcs2.ra.intel.com [137.102.178.27]) by 
ormail.intel.com (8.7.6/8.7.3) with SMTP id TAA01960 for <homebrew at aob.org>; 
Mon, 14 Oct 1996 19:56:22 -0700 (PDT)
Received: from ra0148 (ra0148.ra.intel.com) by ptdcs2.intel.com with SMTP id 
AA14302
  (5.65c+/IDA-1.4.4 for <homebrew at aob.org>); Mon, 14 Oct 1996 19:56:14 -0700 
Message-Id: <3262FCA5.48D2 at no.inhale.com> 
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 1996 19:53:25 -0700 
Originally-From:  slick <slick at no.inhale.com> 
From: Homebrew Digest REQUEST Address Only <homebrew-request@ aob.org> 
Organization: none 
X-Mailer: Mozilla 2.02 (WinNT; I) 
Mime-Version: 1.0 
To: homebrew at aob.org 
Subject: C-c-c-c-old fermentation finally finishes! 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii 
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit 
Errors-To: bacchus at aob.org 
Precedence: bulk 
Reply-To: slick <slick at no.inhale.com>, Homebrew Digest POSTING Address Only 
<homebrew at aob.org>
 
Well, as usual, I relaxed, didn't worry, and drank homebrew ;^) My Dopplebock 
turned out fantastic -- 2 weeks in the primary 
at 40 degrees F, then two weeks in the secondary  at  40F, then 2 more weeks 
lagering at 30F (!) after which I bottled, and am 
now in the process of conditioning. The leftover beer (~4-5oz) tasted very 
malty, ('prolly due to the Wyeast Bohemian yeast) 
with good hop bitterness (~22 IBU's), and no perceptible hop flavor or aroma. 
Now for something completely the same -- I just 
acquired a corny keg system, and when I first powered (sic) it up, only got a 
hair above 500# on a 5# bottle. I force 
carbonated some cream soda for the kids as a test, and now after two days am 
down to almost no CO2. There are no leaks, even 
under water, and yet I don't see how I could get so little CO2 from a 5# bottle
which *theoretically* should have well over 
1500# of pressure on a full cylinder. Perhaps it was filled on a hot day, and 
being in my lagering chest (a converted 16 cu. 
ft. Hotpoint fridge) at 40F, the net results are to be expected...any ideas? 
TTYAL, God Bless, ILBCNU! 
 
         The Doctor 
    mjbrown at teleport.com 
 

Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: 
Date: 
Subject: [none]


Return to table of contents


From: smurman at best.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 23:56:44 -0800
Subject: IPA and Acronyms

 
A little late to be topical, but the Lagunitas Brewing Co. of 
Petaluma, CA has released a special batch of IPA as their 100th batch. 
It is pretty close "to style", at least as I understand it.  Not quite 
a "Wall of Hops", but definately bitter-beer-face material.  (from the 
label; pale, caramel, munich, and wheat malt, with 45.6 IBU Willamette 
and Mt. Hood hops, O.G. 1.059) 
 
Also, the acronym list has gotten a little carried away, but thanks 
for those who took the time to contribute.  I was surprised how many 
there were. 
 
HBD - Homebrew Digest 
 
HSA - Hot-Side Aeration 
RIMS - Recirculating Infusion Mash System 
FWH - First Wort Hopping 
 
APA - American Pale Ale 
IPA - India Pale Ale 
ESB - Extra Special Bitter 
SNPA - Sierra Nevada Pale Ale 
PU - Pilsener Urquell 
 
DO - Dissolved Oxygen 
RO - Reverse Osmosis (water processing technique) 
 
LME - Liquid Malt Extract 
DME - Dry Malt Extract 
HBU - Homebrew Bitterness Units 
IBU - International Bitterness Units 
AA- Alpha Acids 
 
LDPE - Low-Density Poly Ethylene (plastic) 
HDPE - High-Density Poly Ethylene 
PET - (plastic) 
SMM - S-Methyl Methionine (precursor to DMS, found in malt) 
DMS - Di-Methyl Sulfide 
 
AB or A-B - Anheiser-Busch 
 
AHA - American Homebrewers Association 
AOB - Association of Brewers 
GABF - Great American Beer Festival 
BJCP - Beer Judge Certification Process? 
ATF - U.S. Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco and Firearms (party store) 
 
BT - Brewing Techniques, Magazine 
NCJOHB - New Complete Joy Of HomeBrewing 
BLB - Brewing Lager Beer 
NBLB - New Brewing Lager Beer 
RDWHAH = Relax.  Don't Worry. Have a Homebrew. 
 
SS - Stainless Steel 
Cu - Copper 
Al - Aluminum 
 
 
SM - Scott Murman 

Return to table of contents


From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 06:13:37 -0500
Subject: Needed: kettle gaskets

Has anyone found a source for heavy duty (nylon?) gaskets that 
can be used inside a AB keg kettle? 
Or better yet a conversion kit like what used to be offered by 
Stainless in Seattle for non-welded brew kettle keg conversion? 
 
Please respond by e-mail. 
 
Thanks 
RIck Pauly 
NucMed Tech 
Charlottesville,VA 

Return to table of contents


From: Michael Newman <100711.2111 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 29 Oct 96 07:41:49 EST
Subject: Copy of: Insulated mash tuns

My original post seems to have been lost behind the radiator so I am reposting 
it now. 
 
- ---------- Forwarded Message ---------- 
 
From: Michael Newman, 100711,2111 
TO: HBD Submissions, INTERNET:homebrew at aob.org 
DATE: 24/10/96 14:54 
 
RE: Copy of: Insulated mash tuns 
 
Dave Burley responded to Chuck Bernard's query about insulated mash tuns by 
saying that a tun insulated by a styrofoam box will lose about 2 degrees per 30
minutes. This is not the case in my slightly different system and I've outlined
my technique for an infusion mash below. 
 
I mash in a plastic bin with a perforated  plate about 2-3mm from the bottom. 
The run off tap is set in a small well below this. 
The bin sits inside a double skin 3-ply box (made well oversize) which has a 
similar lid. Provision is made in the wall of the box for the passage of 
thermometer leads and tubing etc using short lengths of brass tube cemented in 
place. 
 
SWITCH TO METRIC UNITS HERE (sorry!) 
 
I heat my liquor in a boiler and run it into the mash tun (inside the box) at 
about 80-82C. The temperature of this water quickly stabilizes at about 74C and
more slowly drops to my strike temperature of  72C-- say 15 minutes. When this 
point is reached (and an alarm thermometer is very useful here) the grain is 
added at the rate of 2.2 litres per kilogram, a rotating sparge arm fitted into
place, and the lid is placed on the box.. The temperature quickly falls to, and
stabilizes at, the initial temperature of 66C. Over the next 30 minutes the 
temperature rises slightly, by 0.5C or so, and then fall gradually back to 66C 
over the next hour which is usually the end of my allotted mash time. 
 
I then connect the sparge water to the appropriate brass tube and sparge 
without
opening the box. I have only just modified to system to do this so I have no 
empirical data to pass on. 
 
I believe the slight raise in temperature on adding the grain my be explained 
by
either of the following or perhaps both. 
 
1. The bin and box are preheated to, say 80C, and when the temperature of the 
grain/liquor falls below this the tun/box gives up some of its heat to the 
mash.
 
2. There is a series of exothermic reactions which occur when dry grain is 
mixed
with water which slightly raises the temperature. 
 
So in my experience it is possible to hold an infusion mash at, or at least 
acceptably close to, the saccharification temperature for 90 minutes using an 
insulated mash tun. 
 
MICHAEL NEWMAN, Warminster, UK 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Curt Speaker" <speaker at safety-1.univsfty.psu.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:20:12 EST
Subject: HOPS-BOPS Results?

Hi: 
 
Anyone know why the results from the HOPS-BOPS held in Cherry Hill, 
NJ on 10/20 haven't been posted to the HBD?  I didn't have anything 
entered; just curious to see who is making good beer in the Philly 
area?  Any ideas??? 
 
Curt 

Return to table of contents


From: Jim Thomas <jim.thomas at telops.gte.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:11:17 -0500
Subject: Recirculation

Fellow Brewers, 
 
Anybody have any thoughts on recirculation of runnings in the mash 
tun?  I've secured a small Grainger solution pump and have wired it 
up with a motor speed controller and have configured my system to 
"automate" the recirculation process.  I mash in an insulated cooler 
so I don't have a way to directly add heat (a la RIMS), but I'm 
considering recirculating the mash liquor for a portion of mash, 
say, the last 20 minutes.  Any thoughts??? 
 
TIA, 
 
Jim 

Return to table of contents


From: "Robert DeNeefe" <rdeneefe at compassnet.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:02:08 -0600
Subject: raising gravity with extract

I plan on brewing my first high gravity beer soon, an Imperial Stout. 
My first full mash went well (it's almost done carbonating) and I want 
to mash again.  I was thinking of adding some extract to the kettle to 
bring my gravity up to the nether reaches so I wouldn't have to mash 
the large amount of grain required for such a high OG.  In looking 
through various sources though, most suggest adding the extract to the 
collected wort and limiting boil to 1 hour.  Why not boil the collected 
wort for 1/2 hour, THEN add the extract and continue boiling for an 
hour?  Is there some reason not to do this that I don't see, or is it 
just a convenience thing? 
 
 Robert 

Return to table of contents


From: "CHUCK HUDSON HEAD BREWER AND CO/OWNER OF HOMEBREW HAVEN ALBUQUERQUE NM." <CHUDSON at joplin.unm.edu>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 7:54:27 -0700 (MST)
Subject: RE: Needed: kettle gaskets

 
You might e-mail Kevin Gumpky (sp) at Stainless in Seattle. I just bought 8 
converted kegs from him and they are great. His address is 
stainless at jetcity.com 
 
Chuck Hudson 
Owner and Head brewer of Homebrew Haven & BOP 
Albuquerque NM 
505-352-9635 

Return to table of contents


From: Jon Vilhauer <jvil at inforum.net>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 08:27:49 -0800
Subject: spectators in the free seats hiss first

Following the precept that people with nothing worthwhile to say 
should keep quiet, I generally do.  Even so, I can't sit silently while 
Al K., one of very few reasons why the digest is worth downloading, is 
criticized.  I often look over the TOC, and don't bother reading if Al's 
name isn't listed. 
 
We could have a much more useful, readable HBD: 
 
1.  Don't make personal comments. 
2.  Don't use language your Mother wouldn't like. 
3.  Don't carry on personal conversations of no interst to others. 
4.  If you really have no idea as to the correct answer to a question, 
perhaps you shouldn't try to answer it. 
5.  If you can't think of any reason for other people to be interested 
in your post, think twice before posting it. 
 
That's all I'll say. If HBD gets worse, I will slip away silently. 
 
So long, and thanks for all the fish  . . . . 

Return to table of contents


From: hblcpark at cwo.com (HAROLD B. PARK)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 09:22:11 -0800
Subject: [none]

resubscribe 
 

Return to table of contents


From: HOUCK KEITH A <HOUCK_KEITH_A at LILLY.COM>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 16:42:03 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: boston pubs & heart's chiller

 
 
>HBDers, 
>I've read the review of the Heart's Super Chiller in the Spring Zymurgy 
>issue 
>and am impressed.  Does anyone have one of these?  My intentions are for 
>using 
>it on 20 to 30 gallon batches. 
>Thanks 
>Mike in Cherry Hill NJ 
 
    I have a Heart's counterflow chiller and love it. Works 
perfectly--cools wort down to the same temperature as the cooling water. 
For lagers, I put my old immersion chiller in line on the upstream side of 
the cooling water, submerge it in an ice water bath, and get wort at 
ready-to-pitch temperature. Massive cold break, as well. I would see no 
problems with 20-30 gallon batches--I drain by gravity flow and the rate is 
good. 
    On another subject, I will be in Boston several times in the next few 
weeks. Anyone have recommendations on brewpubs in the area? Private email 
is fine. Thanks. 
 
Cheers, 
Keith Houck (hak at lilly.com) 
Carolina Fermenters Unlimited 
Chapel Hill, NC 
 

Return to table of contents


From: Dave Justice <davej at nwark.com>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 1996 12:27:30 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Ozark Regional Competition

Subject: Ozark Regional Competition 
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing 
Summary: 
Keywords: 
 
For those who might be interested, The 2nd Annual Ozark Homebrew 
Competition takes place on Saturday, November 16 at the Ozark 
Brewing Company in Fayetteville, Arkansas. This is an AHA santioned 
competition covering all major AHA categories. Entry requirements 
are the standard AHA 3 bottle, entry forms, bottle entry labels, etc. 
$5.00 entry fee, mailed entries to arrive by Nov. 12. 
Address: 
OHC 96, c/o Ozark Brewing Co., 430 W. Dickson, Fayetteville, AR 72703 
Experienced judges are welcome and can expect to be well cared for. 
Complete information is at http://www.nwark.com/~davej/flops.html 
 

Return to table of contents


From: "Ray Robert" <Ray_Robert at bah.com>
Date: 29 Oct 1996 13:31:10 U
Subject: Time-limited brewing

Good day brew collective: 
 
I wanted to run a proposal past the group to determine if there are any 
problems associated with it. 
 
I am thinking about splitting my brewing into two chunks so I could brew on 
two consecutive nights: 
 
Chunk 1:  Clean/sanitize brew equipment 
               Mash and Lauter 
 
Chunk 2:  Boil 
               chill and pitch. 
 
I am theorizing that this would work because boiling the second night would 
kill off any nasties left from the mash etc.  The mash liquor would be kept in 
a stainless steel kettle with saran (tm) wrap covering the top to keep any 
stuff out.  The setup would be left in place so all I would have to do when I 
returned home on the 2nd night is to fire up the propane cooker. 
 
Is this workable, or will the brew gods smite me for trying to save some time. 
 Any anecdotal evidence would be appreciated. 
 
Regards 
Robert 
ray_robert at bah.com 

Return to table of contents


From: "Ray Robert" <Ray_Robert at bah.com>
Date: 29 Oct 1996 13:45:43 U
Subject: What mag to buy?

Question for the collective? 
 
I have decided to part with some of my hard-earned dollars for a magazine 
subscription.  Which is the best to buy?  I am an all-grain brewer, moderate 
level of brew sophistication (IMHO), but not a real techie type.  Any 
pertinent email/snail mail info and prices would be helpful. 
 
Thanks 
ray_robert at bah.com 

Return to table of contents


From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 29 Oct 96 13:42:07 EST
Subject: Re: Poison Frog Questions,Pasteur and Crabtree, liar

Brewsters: 
 
Behind again in HBD, but a Strong Belgian Ale in the FV with cultured Chimay 
yeast is the cause. 
 
Phil of Poison Frog says: 
 
> Special Thanks to dave burley again. Your public email address still comes 
> back undeliverable!?? So once again... 
 
I have corrected it. As luck would have it,  all my other closings in my 
e-mailer were correct except for this one. Sorry for the inconvenience. That's 
one of the great things about technoogy, sometimes you get to make the same 
mistake over and over. 
 
> Im brewing again today (Friday)--Aussi lager. I've never tried 
> anything this pale before, any secreats? 
 
Beware of HSA. Before you transfer your wort through the air or aerate it, 
chill
it to near room temperature. 
 
> You or chuck were refering to 
> doing a "mash-in" and a Mash-out. I thought i was pretty ready to go all 
> grain, but these terms confuse me. 
 
Mash-in is the act of first adding water to the grist or abbreviated from 
"mashing -in temperature" it is the  temperature of the mash after water is 
first added. Mash out is the act of heating the mash to a stabilizing 
temperature just before lautering. Likewise, abbreviated "mashing-out 
temperature is..."  Mash-out is usually 167-170F to stop further enzyme action 
and stabilize the % fermentability of the wort. Lautering is the separation of 
the wort from the spent grains. 
- ------------------------------------------------------ 
Peter Ensminger says: 
 
>Concerning a recent post by Dave Burley on the Pasteur effect and the 
>Crabtree effect ... 
 
>I believe that your selective quotations from M&BS may lead to some 
>misunderstanding of the Pasteur effect and Crabtree effect and their 
>importance to fermentation. 
 
Actually, my main point was that there is a difference between the baker's 
yeast
model quoted so often in explaining the Pasteur effect and brewer's yeast. 
Brewer's yeast does not stop producing ethanol in the presence of oxygen like 
baker's yeast, except if the sugar concentration is below 1%. Brewer's yeast is
"imperfect" at higher concentrations of sugar and continues to produce alcohol 
(even though this is an "anerobic" process normally) even in the presence of 
oxygen.  This is the contre-Pasteur or "Crabtree effect". 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------- 
Beerdog says: 
 
>bar in my neighborhood sells samual adams as an import.  i said: from 
>where?  they quited down and i bought a molson ice. 
 
There are two.  Samuel Adams of Tadcaster in England is an import.  Try his 
Oatmeal Stout or Pale Ale. Samuel Adams ( aka Jim Koch) Boston Beer Co. is not 
an import, except maybe from Pennsylvania. 
- ------------------------------------------------------------------ 
RusD1 says in jest, as he votes with his feet, how he feels about  the low 
personalized level to which HBd has shrunk : 
 
>And now back to your regular broadcast... (Hey, Al K., I think Dave Burley 
>just called you a liar again...). 
 
Just for the record, I have never called AlK a liar that I recall and don't 
believe he is one.  He did call someone a liar when they falsely ( I presume) 
accused  him of filling their e-mailbox with trash as a result of a 
disagreement. 
 
Our much discussed disagreeement is not based on ethics, nor on Al's excellent 
technical contributions here, but of approach to how members of this forum 
should be treated.  I vote for respect, even in cases where a person may be 
incorrect.  Most "newbies" in this forum are mature, highly skilled, highly 
educated people and everyone should be treated this way. From time to time, 
everyone makes mistakes or needs to have a position modified once in a while by
pointing out an error or refining a set of conditions. I expect to be 
corrrected, as should other contributors, even though I am as careful as I can 
be within the limits of my time and reference material available to me.  Like 
everyone here I do not have peer review on everything I write, so there are 
bound to be screw-ups. There should be no shame in making an honest mistake and
having it corrected, only pleasure from both participants. One for having his 
own knowledge expanded, the other for having given the gift of knowledge. 
 
Brewing is a combination of art and science and sometimes there are no black 
and
white rules. As a result, there will be differences of opinion and that is one 
reason for this forum - to air all sides openly.  Let's actively discuss, 
correct and modify each others comments as needed, but do it respectfully. 
 
Remember the goal of HBD is to brew better beer, and to have fun doing it with 
your virtual brew buddies. 
- --------------------------------------------------------- 
 
Keep on brewin' 
 
 
Dave Burley 
Kinnelon, NJ 07405 
103164.3202 at compuserve.com 
 
 
 

Return to table of contents