Homebrew Digest Monday, 11 November 1996 Number 2270
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
A Automated Digest???? (shane at cais.cais.com)
Kegging ("John P. Galligan")
Interest in non-RIMS Sparging Systems in Use or Being Contemplated (Rod Schlabach)
re: Foxx beverage ("bob rogers")
CO2 Bottles, Mash schedule ("David Root")
cleaning corny kegs (Douglas A Moller)
Re: Oxygenation Cognitative Dissonance, Sake ("David R. Burley")
Re: 1098 and stuck ferment (Joe Rolfe)
RE:CO2 tank (The Holders)
Oops RE:CO2 tank (The Holders)
Re: Amber malt exract (Derek Lyons)
Re: What is 'Amber' malt extrat (Derek Lyons)
Sake and Koji (u-brew-it)
Spargless, singlevessel, archi_RIMS ((David Hill))
Re:HSA ((Nigel Townsend))
1997 National Bay Area Brewoff (Bob Jones)
Children / Saftey / brewery ((David Hill))
FREE SUBSCRIPTION TO LINGA'S MAG (francogalian at pinos.com)
A complement, a few questions, and a funny one... ("Tim M. Dugan")
Oxygenation of Wert (Tom Wolf)
Re: A complement, a few questions, and a funny one... ("bob rogers")
Dry Hopping! ("JohnBoy")
Oxygenation of wert, readable repost (Tom Wolf)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: shane at cais.cais.com
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 21:57:10 -0500
Subject: A Automated Digest????
What exactly would it take to automate the digest??? Food for thought!!
Return to table of contents
From: "John P. Galligan" <galligan at erols.com>
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 1996 22:50:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Kegging
Can somebody provide me with simple instructions on how to keg beer. I have
tried on various occasions and seem to get only a lot of foam, no
carbonation in the beeer itself. I think my problem must be somehow
associated with the length of dispensing hose and the internal keg pressure.
I sometimes wish I had the quality I used to know in my bottled beer,
however tedious it was to do the bottling thing. Please help.....my wife
thinks I have just wasted a lot of money on my kegging gear. I have assured
her that the next batch will be as good as our old bottled efforts.
Return to table of contents
From: Rod Schlabach <schlabr at iquest.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 96 00:44 EST
Subject: Interest in non-RIMS Sparging Systems in Use or Being Contemplated
I hope readers haven't received the following twice, but I just looked at
HBD #2269 and I think it was inadvertently deleted along with some other
messages. Anyway:
Fellow brewers,
I'm would like to hear from any of you who are working on any novel,
technical sparging systems, or have any ideas along the following lines. If
the following strikes you, please mail me.
My feelings on gadgetry: I personally don't think I want to make a RIMS-type
system because I don't want to have to clean out any more lines and pumps
with wort residue in them than I have to. I like to stir my mash while I
manually control the flame under it and like having the flexibility of being
able to infusion, step, or decoct as needed. My goal in using control
systems (gadgetry) is to automate the drab stuff that make sense, without
creating any mess to clean up. That why I lean toward automating the water
side, i.e., sparging. Without having experienced RIMS, maybe I'm jumping to
conclusions...
Standard procedure for 10 gallon batches is to mash my grain in a
half-barrel keg, transfer it to my lauter, and then, after rinsing the keg,
use the same keg and burner to boil, a procedure which has served me well. I
plan to keep this procedure.
The Plan is to use my CO2 regulator to lightly pressurize an my hot liquor
tank, an aluminum 50L keg of British origin (Grundy) at near-ground level.
The 50L keg will be heated by an electrical water heater element controlled
(PID) to deliver heated water via insulated copper tubing to my rectangular
lauter tun, a picnic cooler with drilled copper water-delivery manifold
hanging inside the lid. [50L aluminum kegs lend themselves nicely to tapping
with 1/8" pipe threads due to their adequate wall thickness. They have a
seemingly thick plastic internal lining, by the way]. I used a screw-in type
water heater element, but instead of threading the keg for the element, I
just made a hole and used two giant versions of worm-gear type stainless
steel "radiator" clamps wrapped end-to-end around the whole keg to press the
element against the supplied gasket. Actually the clamp presses against a
PVC cap which presses against the element. This cap also serves to contain
the electrial connections.
A float switch in the lauter lid, according to plan, controls a solenoid
valve in the line between the tank and lauter keeps the lauter (picnic
cooler) just full. SpargeMatic.
Note: This will all be strung together to be grounded via my big copper rod
in the ground so my six children won't be electrocuted. My hot liquor tank
has a pressure relief valve. I compost all by-products of brewing. Hot
surfaces are insulated.
If you have any suggestions, or any thoughts from your experience,
especially if you have used a compressed gas to drive your hot liquor tank,
or have good ideas on sparge water delivery manifolds with minimum silt
disturbance as suited to rectangular coolers, I'd like to hear from you.
Thanks.
W/Best Regards, Rod Schlabach schlabr at iquest.net
Return to table of contents
From: "bob rogers" <bob at carol.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 02:19:38 -0500
Subject: re: Foxx beverage
i got through to foxx first try. they sent me a 8 page home beverage
dispensing catalog. they asked me if i had a company and i told them "no,
i'm a homebrewer". the catalog has a notice that there is a $10 minimum.
maybe they sell retail now.
bob: brewing in the heart of the bible belt
bob rogers bob at carol.net
Return to table of contents
From: "David Root" <droot at concentric.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 08:35:05 -0500
Subject: CO2 Bottles, Mash schedule
Brendan asks about old fire ext bottles with a current inspection. Go for
it the bottle
is the same as any other CO2 bottle. A new one costs about $85. $45 is
1/2 price
of a new one with a new valve and current inspection. C02 is not reactive
so the bottle
should not be corroded inside.
I tried a 40/60/70 mash schedule for the first time and got 28 pts instead
of my usual 24 pts. using german pils malt.
David Root Droot at concentric.net Lockport NY
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From: Douglas A Moller <damoller at odin.thor.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 09:56:02 -0800
Subject: cleaning corny kegs
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I need some help with cleaning my corny kegs. My arms are to large to
fit in the top so I cannot scrub by hand. Great fermentaions used to
sell a scrub rag attached to a spring to scrub where hands cant reach.
Does anybody have any suggestions, Please.
Doug A Moller
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From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 10 Nov 96 10:30:22 EST
Subject: Re: Oxygenation Cognitative Dissonance, Sake
Brewsters:
Mark"Brew Hard" Bayer had some questions about oxygenation and several have
been
buzzing around in my bean also..
Using oxygen only allows a 5 times faster saturation ( and maybe less foam)
than
if air is bubbled in, and does not give any higher final concentration of
oxygen
in the wort than air as long as the wort is in contact with air at one
atmosphere pressure. If it only takes a few minutes to saturate with oxygen in
small bubbles, how long does it take to saturate a wort with no shaking, etc.,
just standing in contact with air?
SInce I've been brewing lots of years successsfully using an open fermenter
covered with a thin poly sheet and underpitching by commercial standards, is it
possible that in the 12-24 hour wait before anaerobic fermentation begins that
oxygen diffusion into the wort is sufficient? Anyone with numbers on oxygen in
wort in this circumstance? Don't we, with our 2 feet depth or so of beer, have
the same situation ( except ours are cool and covered with plastic sheets) as
coolships of old in terms of oxygen diffusion?. Is oxygenation necessary in
small volumes like ours or just in commercial quantities? Any hard numbers on
oxygen content in wort or even water standing in contact with air for 12 to 24
hours. How about some of you limnologists out there? Any info on lakes and
oxygen? Is the addition of oxygen needed only when using closed fermentation
and high pitching rates?
Why is it that such a small quantity of oxygen at the beginning of the brew can
make a difference? If one calculates the moles of oxygen versus the yeast
requirements, it is obvious the amount is infinitesimal as far as making a real
impact on the direction of the fementation. In an earlier comment I pointed out
that the oxygen content of a saturated wort is sufficient for only 10 or so
seconds in a fully active yeast colony.
Although I don't deny experimental facts about falling yeast yields and degree
of attentuation in the absence of oxygen in commercial situations, some of
which
I have published here from M&BS, I, like Mark, must be missing something.
- -------------------------------------------------------
Calgarey Penn, having lived in Japan for a number of years and tasted lots of
types of Sake, asks for Sake references and sources.
Is there a Sake maker's net out there?
Best easily available book with lots of references is Fred Eckhardt's
"SAKE(USA)" (1992) from Fred Eckhardt's Communnications, Portland, Oregon
503-289-7596. He covers the definition and clues to making all different types
of oriental Jiu. He has a chapter on homebrewed Sake. He claims that Koji can
be
obtained from a local Japanese grocery store. Failing that, try some of the
larger Mailorder HB suppliers.. Wyeast sells the Sake Yeast used in the Moto.
- ------------------------------------------------------
Keep on brewin'
Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202 at compuserve.com
Return to table of contents
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 11:26:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: 1098 and stuck ferment
> recently brewed a 10 gallon batch of all-grain IPA, OG=1.065, and pitched
>a 1.5 liter starter of Wyeast 1098. Fermentation at 62F started slowly (36
>hours) and stopped after a few days. I racked to the secondary and found
>that the gravity was 1.042!
sounds like you under pitched by 50% or more, double the volume atleast
>In back issues of HBD (around 1992-93) there was discussion of the three
>strains present in the Whitbread yeast (allegedly the same as 1098). George
>Fix stated that the first strain is a fast starter that is sensitive to
>alcohol levels over 2.5% by weight. As this strain slows the other two
>strains, which are slow starters, take over.
from talking to wyeast this is a single strain, the old dry stuff
sourced from crosby and baker was a triple strain, until they had
some problems and dropped the entire brand. i used to get it in bricks
and then all of a sudden it was not available anymore.
i forget which strain they actually isolated for use, maybe some else
knows offhand....for me it does not matter, i have it and it works like a
champ...drops out quickly and stores pretty well.
>My stuck fermentation occurred at 2.3% alcohol. Thus it appears that the
>first strain died, and the others never took off.
nahhh - you just under pitched, how did you aerate the wort, i know
from using this yeast it likes to have (in my usage) lots of aeration
and a little warmer temps. i pitch at 72 and by the time it gets rocking
(2-3 hours later) the temp has dropped to 70 or so, then climbs back to 72.
the whole fermentation is over within 3 days. this is just about any
amount of sugar. we had a 20 plato wort go to about 3 in 4 days. this was
done over with yeast that was eased into it over time.
good luck
joe
from my usage this yeast is a strong fermenter.
Return to table of contents
From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 10:51:29 -0800
Subject: RE:CO2 tank
In digest #2269, Brendan Oldham asks about buying a CO2 cylinder used.
The latest date on the cylinder is the test DUE date, sounds like you'll
need a fresh hydro test. When you do get your hydro test, and before
filling, ask that the cylinder be purged with nitrogen. This will get
rid of residual moisture in the cylinder, reducing corrosion from the
inside.
As for the price of the cylinder, you didn't say what size...I'd tell
him you want a cylinder with a current test date...
Wayne Holder
Long Beach CA
"Damn its hot here"
Return to table of contents
From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 11:04:25 -0800
Subject: Oops RE:CO2 tank
Now that I have some coffee in me, I realize I made a error in my post
about hydro testing....the date stamped is the date
tested...WTHWIT?(what the hell was I thinking)
I'd still ask for the Nitrogen purge....
Wayne Holder
Long Beach CA
"contrary to my own opinions, I am NOT always correct...at least that's
what I think..."
Return to table of contents
From: Derek Lyons <elde at hurricane.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 10:53:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Amber malt exract
At 07:48 PM 11/9/96 -0800, you wrote:
>
>One hard and fast rule (so it seems) is that most manufacturers usually
>only make light and dark, and Amber is a mixture of 2 parts light and 1
>part dark.
>
>This is why Charlie P. gives multiple conversions:
>5 lb. Amber malt extract= 5 lb. light extract plus 2 cups crystal malt
> -OR-
>5 lb. Amber malt extract= 5 lb. light extract plus 1/2 cup chocolate,
>black or roasted.
>
>Obviously there is alot of variance, and the composition is determined by
>the grains used by the manufacturer. This is an arguement for all grain
>brewing since you know exactly what is going in.
>
Bogus all-grain elitism again.
Serious extract brewers do not use 'extract from various manufacturers'.
They use the *same* extract for re-creating the *same* brew. I don't use
say, Briess amber for one batch of brew 'x' and Laaglander amber for another
batch of brew 'x'. (Caveat unless I am *delibrately trying* for a different
effect.)
Grain brewers do not use 'just any malt', they use specific ones. Why do
you assume extract brewers do any different?
Return to table of contents
From: Derek Lyons <elde at hurricane.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 10:53:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: What is 'Amber' malt extrat
At 03:15 PM 11/7/96 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I was ordering amber malt extract for a recipe that
>also used crystal malt. The supplier did not have
>amber malt extract in stock, but said I could
>'make' amber by useing pale malt extract and a lb.
>of crystal. Is that what amber malt extract is?
>Would I still use the 1/2 lb. of crystal malt that
>the recipe originally required?
>
Wait a bit until he has amber in stock. Or order from another supplier.
In any case record the brand of amber you use so as to be able to duplicate
the brew later.
If you do 'make' your own amber, the crystal required to make it is above
and beyond any required by the remainder of the recipe.
Derek L.
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From: u-brew-it <ubrewit at csra.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 14:08:12 -0800
Subject: Sake and Koji
Mr. Penn,
In answer to your questions about sake info and the koji:
I would recommend the book "Sake USA" by Fred Eckhardt. This book is
very well written and covers well this very involved style of beer/wine.
The book also gives info on brewing other rice based drinks found
throughout the Orient.
The book also gives addresses for companies that sell the highly polished
rice needed along with suppliers of koji, and sake yeast (Sake var Yabe).
Any homebrew supplier can get this book easily, the sake yeast from
Wyeast labs, and the koji from the listed koji suppliers.
About the H.B. stores high prices (I'm not defending him) but I know that
the prices of barley has risen dramatically around the world (Bad
domestic crops, and increased demand) and the British Gov't has stopped
subsidizing the malt industry, as a result malts have been rising in
price. I (being the owner of a H.B. store) have held my prices and
dropped a few since I have opened, but I don't know his/hers situation.
If they are chargeing over $10.oo for 3 lb. dry/3.3 liquid malt extract
(8-9.00 for bulk) they are charging too much. Look on the internet for
online cataloges, and also look at Zymurgy, Brew your own, Brewing
Techniques... for mail order. They have better prices due to low
overhead as compared to a store front H.B. store.
Good luck and good brewing,
Kurt A. Meyer
ubrewit at csra.net
http://digidime.com/ubrewit/
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From: davidh at melbpc.org.au (David Hill)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 08:04:24 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Spargless, singlevessel, archi_RIMS
This is the Second Posting the first got bounced because of the dreaded
"test" word in the subject line.
sorry for the confusion>
Sunday afternoon was the first grand test of the single vessel- spargeless-
archi RIMS system.
The equipment,
1... 100 lit stainless kettle sitting on
2... multi mega BTU Italian propane fire (not the jet style)
3... grain basket inside the kettle made from 60 lit plastic barrel with
1.5mm perforations and a with central mounted Archi-RIMS pump
The process
1... raised 45 lit water to 57C
2... doughed in 12.5 kilo grain & started pump
The results
1.....pump didn't work!
2.....wasted 30 mins figuring out that the wiring had been reversed when I
replaced the brushes yesterday, and in finding another screw driver small
enough to change the wiring. (spouse had gone out with the first small
driver in the car)
3..... turned fire up after 20 mins because temp was falling below protein
rest level,
4..... pump would prime, run for a few seconds and fail,
5..... twisted knob off pump speed controller whilst venting frustration
6..... concluded that heat on bottom of grain basket was allowing it to sag
below the 1cm spacers and settle flush on bottom of kettle. Therefore inlet
to pump blocked, therefore no recirculation,
7.... rigged up rope and pulley arangement to elevate grain basket off
bottom of kettle
8.... pump starts to run flat out
9.... throttle pump back before grain bed could become compacted and impervious
10... wake to fact that fire still roaring away far too fast
11... underlet temperature boiling, mash temperature over 80C
12... enzymes well and truly killed
13... experiment a failure.
had home brew and considered relaxing
had another homebrew and got closer to relaxing
conclusions
I still believe the system could and will work well.
I'll gamble one more another bucket of grain trying to prove the system
Best brewing to all
David Hill :-)>
David Hill :-)>
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From: nigelt at delm.tas.gov.au (Nigel Townsend)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 10:07:43 +1000
Subject: Re:HSA
I sent a request for information on HSA, last week, but it appears to be
lost as a "none". I repeat it briefly as I will shortly be starting my
first whole grain batch.
1. Do you need to worry about HSA caused by splashing etc between mashing
and commenceing the boil?
2. At what temp can you start to aerate after boiling without worrying
about HSA?
Many thanks
Nigel Townsend
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
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From: Bob Jones <bjones at bdt.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 16:59:59 -0800
Subject: 1997 National Bay Area Brewoff
The Draught Board Homebrew Club is proud to present
the 1997 National Bay Area Brew-Off on February 1, 1997.
First, second, and third place awards (great ribbons, cash, and prizes)
will be given in eight style categories in this AHA recognized event.
Categories for judging are:
Dry Stout
Bock
Porter
Pale Ale
India Pale Ale
Barleywine/Wheatwine
Holiday
Mead
Start brewin now!!!
For additional information....
http://www.bdt.com/home/bjones/babo97.html
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From: davidh at melbpc.org.au (David Hill)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 12:12:45 +1100 (EST)
Subject: Children / Saftey / brewery
A recent posting cautioned brewers who are parents to be very cautious
concerning potential hazards to their children.
At greatest risk are visiting children, especially those of parents who do
not normally "do things" in their garage. ie children who are not aware that
adults working can involve dangers, to curious fingers and boisterious play.
BREWERIEs are especialy dangerious, iodophors in Coke bottles, caustic
solutions, alcohol, gas, fumes, and most dangerous of all boiling solutions.
Solutions that are frequently precariously balanced on some home-made pedestal.
Beware also glass carboys left in the path of a speeding tricycle or child
chasing the dog chasing the child.
Grain at mashout temperatures is capable of inflicting life threatening
burns to small people and some home brewers' idea of what constitutes
adequate electrical safety would bring tears of delight to ligitation lawers.
We must all look at our operations and ensure that they are child proof. We
cannot rely on quarantine because someday someone will leave the gate open.
Just a thought
Not beer
But important to brewers never the less.
I twould tame more than a homebrew to bring on relaxation after scalding a
child.
David Hill :-)>
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From: francogalian at pinos.com
Date: 10 Nov 1996 21:25:00 EDT
Subject: FREE SUBSCRIPTION TO LINGA'S MAG
HEY DUDE!!!!!!
YOU HAVE THE CHANCE TO GET YOUR SUBSCRIPTION TO LINGA'S MAG WHICH IS
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From: "Tim M. Dugan" <tdugan at netins.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 23:12:34 -0600
Subject: A complement, a few questions, and a funny one...
First of all I would like to thank everyone on the home-brew digest and =
rec.crafts.brewing for what I have learned over the last five weeks. I =
have been a beer aficionado for years, but a few weeks ago I decided to =
take the plunge and make some of my own. I went out and bought a couple =
of books for the basics, but I knew the only place I would pick up the =
subtleties of brewing would be a mailing list or a newsgroup. And I was =
right!=20
There is one down side to the home-brewing thing...my wife recently said =
to me that "If you are smart enough to make you own beer, you are smart =
enough to make dinner!" OOPS!
That said, I would like to ask a couple of questions...
I brewed my first batch, a stout, a month ago (with an Irish ale in the =
fermentor right now) and I opened my first bottle this weekend. It =
turned out better than I expected...it is actually quite enjoyable, =
though Guinness has nothing to worry about, for the moment ;-) The only =
thing I am disappointed about is its body (mouth feel?), it seems kind =
of watery. Is this because=20
a) "That's how a stout is suppose to taste, you have just been spoiled =
by Guinness",=20
b) "It hasn't aged enough", it was in the primary for five days, =
secondary for ten days, and two weeks in the bottle.
c) "You can't expect miracles from an extract"
d) "None of the above"
I know watery is kind of subjective, it feels like (even kind of taste =
like) Murphy's, but nothing like Guinness or even Sam Adams Cream Stout.
For my third batch I'm going to use some liquid yeast. Last week I made =
up some sterile wort for a starter, and canned it a la Miller's "Brewing =
the World's Great Beers". Everything went well and I am excited about =
trying out liquid yeast. My second question comes from the fact that I =
used Laaglander DME for the wort. I have learned since that Laaglander =
extract is high in non-fermentables. Is this a bad thing for a starter? =
I would think so. If it is, should I:
a) Not use it.
b) Use it, but use a different extract next time.
c) Relax, don't worry...
Today I was perusing through a kitchen stuff store at the mall looking =
for brewing fun stuff and I came across a digital thermometer with a =
temperature probe on a long wire. I think it would be great because I =
could keep it in my cooling wort, and would only have to expose enough =
to use my cooler. Does this sound like it would be a good idea, has =
anyone tried a "remote thermometer"? Would it be useable when I get =
into all-grain?
Finally, speaking of all-grain, I am planning on doing two or three more =
extract, then one or two partial-mash, but after that I want to try my =
hand at all-grain. What I want to know is whether this is a good first =
time mashing system. I want to get a 10-gallon Gott cooler, and an =
EASYMASHER designed to fit the Gott cooler. Is this a reasonable =
first-time all-grain setup, or should I be looking at something simpler.
I hope you all find this as humorous as I do...In my newspaper's travel =
section today there is an article about taking a trip to Ireland. =
Naturally the story talks about Irish pubs and Irish beer, but obviously =
the author new not of what she spoke:
"It takes a while to get used to Guinness. This beer from an Irish =
family of brewers is heavy and good in winter; but the first pint is the =
hardest to get down. Stout is a heavy dark-brown beer, somewhat like =
Guinness, but with less calories. Ale is a red beer, made from malt and =
hops. Lager is a yellow regular beer that has been aged for several =
months. Shandy is a mix of lemonade and beer and is popular in hot =
weather."
Hum, learn something new everyday!
Thanks again! I hope some day I can be as much help to others as you =
all have been to me.
Tim M. Dugan
tdugan at netins.net
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From: Tom Wolf <t2960872 at themall.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 22:11:56 -0700
Subject: Oxygenation of Wert
Saturday, at a Maltose Falcons club brew, (a Lambic-style), led by maribe=
th (=93MB=94)
Raines-casselman we ran an experiment to compare the effectiveness of pur=
e oxygen to
pumped air for oxygenation of wert prior to pitching yeast. We measured =
three five gallon
batches of wert from the same boil all with gravity of about 1.053 at abo=
ut 22 degrees C
using a laboratory instrument. In each case the starting level was on the=
order of 0.5 parts
per million (ppm). A 2 to 4 micron stainless steel air stone was used. =
For a control batch
we pumped air through a filter using an aquarium pump into a covered plas=
tic fermenter.=20
After 35 minutes the level of Oxygen had risen to only 4.7 ppm. Into an =
identical
fermenter we ran Oxygen through the same filter and stone for one minute.=
At the end of
the minute the level was reading 12.0 ppm and was still going up. After =
9 additional
minutes with no oxygenation the level had dropped to a steady 7.5 . The =
third batch was
in a glass carboy. After one minute the level read 7.6 ppm. The next rea=
ding at 1.5 minute
was 9.4 ppm so the level must have overshot while we closed the valve. A=
fter 6.0 minutes
the level was reading 9.6 ppm. The glass carboy was nearly full and had =
bubbles up to the
neck which probably trapped the oxygen. The oxygen was obtained from a =
small
BernzOmatic style tank with a hose adapter valve. One tank did everythin=
g including
bringing the control batch up to par when things were done. I was a skep=
tic about using
pure O2 before the experiment, now I=92m totally convinced. The time sav=
ing, level of
confidence that saturation is reached, and the longevity of the tanks cle=
arly justify the
process for home brewing. If you have ever had a stuck fermentation, you=
should
appreciate what certainty in the O2 level at pitching means.
Here is the data if you are interested:
Air Pump:
Time 0 30=92=92 1=92 2=92 5=92 10=92 15=92 17.3=92 25=92 30=92 35=92=
=20
ppm 0.5 0.4 0.9 0.8 0.8 1.2 2.1 3.2 5.4 4.7 4.7
O2 and filter:
Time 0 10=92=92 30=92=92 1=92 2=92 3=92 4.5=92 5.5=92 6.5=92=
7.3=92 8.5=92 9.5=92 10.3=92 =20
ppm 0.5 5.0 8.0 12.0 7.9 7.0 7.0 6.2 8.0 6.6 6.4 7.0 7.5=
=20
O2, glass carboy, no filter on O2 line:
Time 0 10=92=92 30=92=92 45=92=92 1=92 1.5=92 2.5=92 3.5=92 4=
.5=92 6.0=92 =20
ppm 0.5 0.5 3.4 5.5 7.6 9.4 9.6 9.7 7.4 9.6
Tom Wolf
Valencia, CA
wolf at themall.net
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From: "bob rogers" <bob at carol.net>
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 01:15:38 -0500
Subject: Re: A complement, a few questions, and a funny one...
tim,
welcome to the club! you can use some dextrine or CaraPils (TM) malt. up to
about 1/2 pound if you're making a strong stout. grind it up and soak it in
150F water for 20 min or so. this malt has unfermentable sugar and protine
which will contribute body, mouth-feel, and head retension.
i started making all-grain beer after i made several extract batches. i
would probably not have made the switch were it not for the great advice
from the collective. i think it's a lot more fun, but that's just me.
btw, i thought the story you reported was great!
bob: brewing in the heart of the bible belt.
bob rogers bob at carol.net
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From: "JohnBoy" <Bong141 at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 22:48:29 -0800
Subject: Dry Hopping!
Hello all,
I would like to dry hop my current batch of
dunkel. It is in the secondary (5 gal. carboy)
any suggestions or hints are welcome.....
Thanks in advance!
JohnBoy
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From: Tom Wolf <t2960872 at themall.net>
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 1996 22:53:36 -0700
Subject: Oxygenation of wert, readable repost
This should be more readable!
Saturday, at a Maltose Falcons club brew, (a Lambic-style),
led by Maribeth(MB) Raines-Casselman we ran an experiment
to compare the effectiveness of pure oxygen to pumped air
for oxygenation of wert prior to pitching yeast. We
measured three five gallon batches of wert from the same
boil all with gravity of about 1.053 at about 22 degrees C
using a laboratory instrument. In each case the starting
level was on the order of 0.5 parts per million (ppm).
A 2 to 4 micron stainless steel air stone was used.
For a control batch we pumped air through a filter using
an aquarium pump into a covered plastic fermenter.
After 35 minutes the level of Oxygen had risen to only 4.7
ppm. Into an identical fermenter we ran Oxygen through the
same filter and stone for one minute. At the end of
the minute the level was reading 12.0 ppm and was still
going up. After 9 additional minutes with no oxygenation
the level had dropped to a steady 7.5 . The third batch
was in a glass carboy. After one minute the level read
7.6 ppm. The next reading at 1.5 minute was 9.4 ppm
so the level must have overshot while we closed the valve.
After 6.0 minutes the level was reading 9.6 ppm. The
glass carboy was nearly full and had bubbles up to the
neck which probably trapped the oxygen. The oxygen was
obtained from a small BernzOmatic style tank with a hose
adapter valve. One tank did everything including bringing
the control batch up to par when things were done.
I was a skeptic about using pure O2 before the experiment,
now I am totally convinced. The time savings, level of
confidence that saturation is reached, and the longevity
of the tanks clearly justify the process for home brewing.
If you have ever had a stuck fermentation, you should
appreciate what certainty in the O2 level at pitching
means.
Here is the data if you are interested:
Air Pump:
Time 0 30sec 1min 2 5 10 15 17.3 25 30 35
ppm 0.5 0.4 0.9 0.9 0.8 1.2 2.1 3.2 5.4 4.7 4.7
O2 and filter:
Time 0 10 30 1 2 3 4.5 5.5 6.5 7.3 8.5 9.5 10.3
ppm 0.5 5.0 8 12.0 7.9 7.0 7.0 6.2 8.0 6.6 6.4 7.0 7.5
O2, glass carboy, no filter on O2 line:
Time 0 10 30 45 1 1.5 2.5 3.5 4.5 6.0
ppm 0.5 0.5 3.4 5.5 7.6 9.4 9.6 9.7 7.4 9.6
Tom Wolf
Valencia, CA
wolf at themall.net
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