---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  Re: DO & equilibrium; O2 toxicity ((Bill Giffin))
  Dropped posts (Dave Greenlee)
  Specialty Malts in Mash? ("Craig Rode")
  oxygenation/aeration ((Brian Pickerill))
  Weyerman Malts ((George De Piro))
  RE:  ESB troubles ((George De Piro))
  Re: Problems with Mash Temp.  (Spencer W Thomas)
  Believe what you read? (Larry Johnson)
  Re: Chambord in beer  (Spencer W Thomas)
  Weyermann Malz (Jim Busch)
  "homebrew" taste ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Re: Beer color... (Joe Rolfe)
  pump, buckets, web page ("Herb B Tuten")
  RE: ginger in beer ("Bridges, Scott")
  Re: Did I Accidently Make Bottle Bombs? ("bob rogers")
  California Common yeast in lagers (Charles Epp)
  High Point Brewery ((George De Piro))
  pre-prohibition lager (lheavner at tcmail.frco.com)
  Elementary Sparging Q ("Greg Carter")
  Glycerol in freezing yeast ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
  Varying bitterness in a single batch ("Ken Rentz")
  pump wanted (greg at chtree.com)
  Trub-remove or not?? ("Tom L. Vitti")
  Aseptox - One Step - Sanitiser (Denis Barsalo)
  Why is there condensation in my Secondary Fermenter ? ((Raymond P Kasprowicz))
  English Strong Spice ale recipe (Edward J. Steinkamp)
  Bravo to AJ (Thomas Penn)
  Deschutes/bottle filling ("Ted Hull")
  sources for curacao orange peel ((Dan.Nelson))
  Water Quality Questions ("Bill Baker")
  Stainless in Seattle/temp control (rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us)

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: bill-giffin at juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:31:53 cst
Subject: Re: DO & equilibrium; O2 toxicity

Good morning all, 
 
With all the discussions of O2 and such.  I have a couple of questions. 
How much DO is required for a normal fermentation?  At what point is the 
quantity of O2 detrimental to the beer flavor? 
 
Bill 

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From: Dave Greenlee <daveg at mail.airmail.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:38:21 -0600
Subject: Dropped posts

I've had two posts recently dropped.  I received the "Your message has 
been received" acknowledgment, but my posts did not appear in the 
indicated issue. 
 
Is anyone else having this problem? 
 
Nazdrowie, 
Dave Greenlee 
The Vindicated Major Prendergast 
 
******************************************************* 
*  Major Prendergast's Double Bach Dubbel Doppelbock  * 
*        Extra Specially Bitter Bedlam Brewery,       * 
*       a Texas noncommercial Bozoid singularity      * 
******************************************************* 

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From: "Craig Rode" <craig.rode at sdrc.com>
Date: 12 Nov 1996 08:57:30 -0600
Subject: Specialty Malts in Mash?

A couple of HBDs ago, someone asked whether it made sense to add specialty 
malts (eg, crystal, caravienne) to the mash. I hadn't thought of that, but 
since these malts are already converted to sugar, they probably don't do any 
good in the mash.  The question is, do they do any harm?  I typically start 
with 8-10 lbs pale malt, and then add 1-3 lbs of these malts, depending on 
style. 
 
I haven't seen a response to this post, and am wondering about the opinions of 
the collective. 
 
Craig Rode in Milwaukee 
 

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From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:04:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: oxygenation/aeration

mark bayer said: 
>so, really, the advantage of oxygen is that you don't have to roll the 
>oversize carboy around for 10 minutes.  you're still looking at 8 or 9 ppm 
>if you give your wort a 1 minute blast and then don't do anything else. 
 
Yeah, but also I don't think that anything could live in nearly pure O2, so 
that it's a lot cleaner than aeration, especially in the warmer 
months/climes. 
 
- --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN 
 
 

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From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:09:39 -0800
Subject: Weyerman Malts

     Hi! 
 
     Somebody mentioned Weyerman malts in the last digest.  I just thought 
     that I'd mention that they have a really cool selection of interesting 
     malts, some of which I recently acquired (but have not used yet). 
 
     The list includes: Light & dark Munich, Dark Wheat, Cara-wheat, 
     chocolate wheat, Cara-rye, chocolate rye, smoked malt, etc. 
 
     Basically, anything you can thing of, and then some (remember my 
     penchant for hyperbole...). 
 
     I know you can get them from Hop, Skip, and a Brew in Queens, NY.  He 
     mail orders, too.  Phone # is 718-821-6022.  I have no commercial 
     affiliation, but I am friends with the shop owner (no, I won't even 
     get free stuff for this plug, I'm just sharing a good source of 
     interesting malts). 

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From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:39:47 -0800
Subject: RE:  ESB troubles

     Hi all! 
 
     Sorry, I forgot to sign my post about a source of Weyerman malts. 
     Oops. 
 
     There was a question about ESB in the last issue (sorry, I don't 
     recall the name of the poster).  He had a long list of possible causes 
     for "that homebrew taste" in his ESB. 
 
     The things that caught my eye were the complaints of thin body and 
     solvent flavor.  Thin body can come from too long a protein rest at 
     too low a temperature.  You need medium molecular weight proteins to 
     give body to a beer, so you don't want to degrade them too much with a 
     protein rest between 113-122F. 
 
     Solvent flavors can come from too high a fermentation temperature. 
     Excessive esters can also come from this. 
 
     Wyeast 1028 is specifically mentioned as a potential problem.  I have 
     used this yeast many times.  The only time it didn't perform well was 
     when I under pitched and didn't aerate: more banana than a Weizen, and 
     some harshness, too! 
 
     The recipe seemed a bit odd for an ESB.  When you say 2-row, do you 
     mean pale ale malt, or pale (lager) malt? 
 
     Try using pale ale malt and no protein rest.  Pitch a lot of yeast and 
     aerate well.  Proper pitching and aeration will also help you achieve 
     a lower final gravity. 
 
     Remember that you want to have high levels of diacetyl in the final 
     product (buttery aroma). 
 
     Does anybody have good ideas on achieving this? 
 
     Have fun! 
 
     George De Piro  (Nyack, NY) 

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From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:03:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Problems with Mash Temp. 

Well, if I do the simple math, ignoring things like the fact that your 
cooler absorbs some heat, I get: 
 
 (170*1* 9 + 212*1*1 + 9*.4*70) / (1*9 + 1*1 + .4*9) 
  = 146 
Assumptions: 
 Specific heat of water is 1 
 Specific heat of grain is 0.4 
 Mash tun absorbs no heat. 
 
The first thing to note is that the predicted temperature is not 152. 
It takes a few minutes for the temperature to settle after mixing, as 
heat diffuses into the center of your grain chunks. 
 
The second thing is that the last assumption is clearly false.  The 
mash tun will absorb heat from your strike water and will lower the 
achieved temperature. 
 
The math on your second addition: 
 (138 * (10*1 + 9*0.4) + 212*1*4) / (10*1 + 9*0.4 + 1*4) 
  = 154 
 
Pretty close to what you got, again, ignoring  heat absorbed by the 
tun. 
 
=Spencer 
 
 

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From: Larry Johnson <Maltster at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 08:07:38 -0800
Subject: Believe what you read?

 Tim Dugan writes in with a bit from his local paper: 
     -- 
     "It takes a while to get used to Guinness.  This beer from an Irish = 
     family of brewers is heavy and good in winter; but the first pint is 
     the = 
     hardest to get down.  Stout is a heavy dark-brown beer, somewhat like 
     = 
     Guinness, but with less calories.  Ale is a red beer, made from malt 
     and = 
     hops.  Lager is a yellow regular beer that has been aged for several = 
     months.  Shandy is a mix of lemonade and beer and is popular in hot = 
     weather." 
     -- 
to which George de Piro responded thusly: 
 
     I find this sad and disturbing, not humorous.  Think about how many 
     people read that and thought that they learned something about beer! 
 
     People tend to believe what they read.  The beer in this country (USA) 
     would be a lot better, cheaper, and more diverse if people actually 
     knew something about it. 
 
and then, my $.02: 
 
I agree, George, but it isn't just beer.  It's very common (for me, anyway) to 
read some article, usually in a newspaper FWIW, that is written by someone 
totally ignorant of the subject matter and is poorly researched.  The first is 
excusable, the second is not. 
 
We just saw the same principle at work in the recent Dateline "article" / A-B 
Infomercial on micro-breweries.  Just think; how much of the rest of it (that 
we don't have intimate knowledge of) is total nonsense?  Count on the news 
services to keep you informed and educated?  Sure. 
 

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From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:12:04 -0500
Subject: Re: Chambord in beer 

Do it by taste.  Pour a measured, small amount of the beer into a 
glass, then add the Chambord using a medicine dropper (or one of those 
syringes they sell for giving liquid drugs to babies).  When you get a 
good tasting combo, you can scale up to whatever quantity you want to 
flavor. 
 
Thus: if you started with 4 oz of beer and added 10ml of Chambord to 
get the desired flavor, for a gallon you'd need 320ml of Chambord (4oz 
* 32 = 128 oz = 1 gallon, 10ml * 32 = 320ml). 
 
=Spencer 
 

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From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 11:14:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Weyermann Malz

Bob asks about Weyermann malz: 
 
<The local (sort of) shop now has Weyermann beechwood smoked malt.  The owner 
<is not sure how strong it is, since he just got it in and hasn't tried it 
<yet.  He suggested 1 lb in a 5 gal batch to to start. 
 
< Has anyone tried this stuff?  How smoky is it? 
 
Ive brewed with Weyermann smoked malz and it is not too overpowering. 
Beechwood smoked malt is much more mellow to work with than say Peat 
smoked malt.  Ive made a pilot batch of Rauchbier using 94% Weyermann 
rauchmlaz as base.  Not overpowering but readily evident smoke. 
 
<He has a bunch of other Weyermann malts too, such as the Munich malts and 
<some of the crystals.  Anybody have experience with these malts? 
 
Victory Brewing uses these malts almost exclusively.  I find them to 
be very comparable to the best German malts available, certainly in 
the same league as Durst.  Weyermann provides a very extensive line 
of malts including caraWheat malts in both ligh and dark caraWheat. 
If you want a big malty Festbier then the Munich malt is a good choice 
with a decoction mash.  HopDevil IPA gets a lot of its malt character 
from Weyermann Vienna malt.  And St. Victorious Doppelbock was just 
brewed at Victory Brewing with loads of Munich malts.  Try them out, 
they do make a distinctive more authentic (continental) product and are 
light years above the quality found in US domestic malts, specialty 
malts in particular.  Buying better malt does make a better beer. 
 
Prost! 
 
Jim Busch 
 
See Victory Brewing at: 
http://www.victorybeer.com/ 

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From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 10:10:47 -0600 (CST)
Subject: "homebrew" taste

 Richard Walto writes: 
>Anyone who can help me has my indebtedness in excess.  I am trying to 
>brew my favorite beer in the whole world.  Fuller's ESB or Young's 
>Special London Ale are the best examples of what I'm after. 
> 
>My problem is this.  I can't do it, not even close. ... 
> 
>The failing beers can probably be summed up as 'homebrew'.  Do you 
> 
A friend of mine got rid of "that homebrew taste" by making a wort chiller 
instead of pouring hot wort into cold water.  He attributed the taste to 
HSA. 
You've got a wort chiller, but maybe there's aeration at other parts of the 
process. 
 
***** 
Does any of you gadget people use a motorized stirrer of either your mash 
or your wort during chilling? I'd like to mount something on a lid to stir the 
wort, but don't know where to get either the stirrer, the motor, or how to 
connect them.  Suggestions? 
 
***** 
BTW, thanks to all for your suggestions to my problem of an uninsulated 
sankey keg.  I'll give them a shot. 
 
          - Bryan 
            grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu 
            Nashville, TN 
 

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From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 12:41:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Beer color...

 i was just wondering how the samples should be judged for color? 
 
this, color standard, should have some basis to start from dfor 
instance:  c'fuged or filtered to some level. this way haze and possible 
yeast in suspension would be removed.  from my "bad eyesight" 
lots of either take the color down a notch or two, until it drops 
brite. 
 
there was a color chart/strip i saw in a mag of late, but did not seem to 
have many shades on it. any one using this as a cheap easy way? 
 
joe 

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From: "Herb B Tuten" <herb at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:25:26 -0500
Subject: pump, buckets, web page

Greetings all. 
 
Has anyone tried to use a drill-powered pump to transfer 
liquid from one container to another?  I was in a hardware store 
yesterday and saw one for a few dollars.  Probably not good 
for a thermodoohicky-controlled RIMS; but to move hot water 
from a kettle up to a sparge water cooler it would be cheap, quick, 
and easy.  What do you think? 
 
Yeah, I tried to clean a pickle bucket or two before I saw the light. 
Buckets can found easily for free at most bakeries or doughnut shops. 
They get cream filling, fruit filling and stuff in 5 gallon buckets 
and are happy to give them away.  They're food grade and with just 
a little cleaning they can be used for many brewery purposes, with no 
aftertastes. 
 
Our local club, the Winston-Salem Wort Hawgs,  now has a web page. 
Please visit us at http://freenet.co.forsyth.nc.us/WSWH 
 
Herb 
herb at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us 

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From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess at mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 11:04:00 PST
Subject: RE: ginger in beer

 
 
>From: Skip Jonas <skip at eclipse.net> 
>Date: Mon, 11 Nov 1996 18:43:30 -0500 (EST) 
>Subject: Ginger 
> 
>I would like to make a ginger-flavored holiday beer for a friend of mine. I 
 
>have never used fresh ginger (in beer) before and would like to hear about 
>any usage tips (amounts? in the boil? in the primary? in the secondary? 
>chopped? sliced? whole "plug"? etc.) or recipes (all grain or extract). 
TIA, 
> 
>Skip 
 
Skip, 
I've made a number of ginger beers, including a couple for holiday-type 
warming.  In general, I use ginger and other spices as I would finishing 
hops.  You may add some at 15 min before flame out, 0-5 min before flame 
out, or steeping at the end of the boil.  As with hops, each addition 
results in different flavors/aromas.  The later in the boil that you add 
them, the more aroma you get.  For ginger specifically, I would use 1-2 oz 
if you want some but not too much ginger flavor, say, equal amounts split 
between 15 min and steeped.  If you want more pronounced ginger flavor use 4 
oz, split the same way.  As a note of caution, ginger is a powerful spice. 
 It can over whelm a beer.  If you're not sure if you and your friend like 
ginger, I'd suggest starting out with less.  Also, if you want the ginger to 
blend with other spices, like cinnamon, nutmeg, etc, use a lesser amount.  I 
chop my ginger into little bits, you could probably grate it and get the 
same result. 
 
Scott 
 

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From: "bob rogers" <bob at carol.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:25:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I Accidently Make Bottle Bombs?

 
 
go with a modified 3. 
 
open one up after three or four days. 
 
if there's to much co2. then gently pry each cap to relieve the pressure 
and then use your capper to reseal them. 
 

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From: Charles Epp <chuckepp at ukans.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:45:42 -0600
Subject: California Common yeast in lagers

I was intrigued by the recent discussion of brewing pseudo-lagers 
without traditional lager yeasts.  I'm curious whether those who've done 
it think that a Munich Dunkel or doppelbock could be brewed successfully 
with one of the California Common (Steam) yeasts, like the Wyeast 
strain.  That strain produces fairly malty beers, which seems 
appropriate.  What do y'all think?  Private email is fine. 
 
Chuck   chuckepp at ukans.edu 

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From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:09:03 -0800
Subject: High Point Brewery

     Hello all! 
 
     I just wanted to let people know that a new brewery has just begun 
     shipping product in the NJ area. 
 
     The brewery is called "High Point Brewery" (although they're actually 
     in Butler).  They claim to be America's first exclusive German-style 
     Wheat beer brewery. 
 
     They make 2 beers, Ramstein Blonde and Dark.  They are only available 
     on tap in some NJ bars at the moment. 
 
     The blonde is a good Weizen, with all the banana and clove you would 
     expect.  Not at all a bland American wheat! 
 
     The dark is a more subdued in the ester and phenolic departments, and 
     the roast malt is actually pretty up front in the flavor profile.  An 
     interesting interpretation of the style. 
 
     They decoction mash and use open fermenters.  The beer is definitely 
     worth trying. 
 
     As usual, I have absolutely no commercial interest in this.  Just 
     hoping that some people in Northern Jersey might get excited about a 
     their new neighbor! 
 
     Have fun! 
 
     George De Piro  (Nyack, NY) 

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From: lheavner at tcmail.frco.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:14:27 -0600
Subject: pre-prohibition lager

     Now that I have 2 lagers and an all-grainer under my belt, I'd like to 
     try the pre-prohibition American lager that was discussed in HBD a 
     while back.  Unfortunately niether of the local homebrew suppliers 
     carry 6-row malt.  Can anybody suggest a source in central Texas or 
     mail order.  Also, Ulm yeast was suggested.  Is there a source for it? 
     Would one of the Wyeast varieties be appropriate as an alternative? 
 
     Lou Heavner 
     <lheavner at frmail.frco.com> 

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From: "Greg Carter" <gcarter at mail.hq.faa.gov>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 96 12:51:13 EST
Subject: Elementary Sparging Q

     O.K., brain lapse time, so I'll ask the collective oracle: 
 
     With a 9 lbs. grain bill (for a 5 gallon recipe), mashed in 2 1/2 
     gallons water, and sparged with 4 gallons 170F water, why did I only 
     get about 3 1/2 gallons in the primary fermenter (with no trub in the 
     kettle)? Assuming a gallon boiled off, I can't fathom 2 gallons being 
     held hostage in the grist, after a 45 minute sparge (with O.G. down to 
     about 1.002 - I know, I know, don't go below 1.004, but there was this 
     great article I was reading).  One other thing (isn't there always?!); 
     I mashed in the night before, and left it sit overnight in the 
     insulated Gott cooler.  Over 10 hours, it lost about 20 degrees. Any 
     affect? 
 
     Am I wrong to assume I can sparge any recipe to 6 gallons in the 
     kettle (and therefore 5 gallons in the fermenter)? After adding water 
     to go to 6 gallons, my O.G. was 1.048 (within range for an ESB 
     (1.046-1.060).  Any sparging help gratefully appreciated. 
 
     TIA - Greg Carter 
 
     P.S. to Terry Selba - What's IMBR? 
 
     P.P.S. I think animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous 
     and give the wrong answers.... 
 

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From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton at iastate.edu>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 15:16:33 -0600
Subject: Glycerol in freezing yeast

Having searched the archives of the HBD, I have seen multiple references to 
glycerol in the long term storage (read: freezing) of yeast.  Is there a 
commercially available source of glycerol somewhere?  Otherwise I have to 
go to the university's chem stores department and fill out paperwork till 
my skin falls off.  Apparently purchasing chemicals is not an everyday 
thing there. 
 
Any help is appreciated 
 
Jeff 
 
Jeffrey M. Kenton                      finger for PGP public key 
ElEd/SecEd 301 Teaching Assistant 
N013 Lagomarcino Hall                  "Information comes, knowledge lingers" 
jkenton at iastate.edu                                    - Alfred Lord Tennyson 
 
 

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From: "Ken Rentz" <rentzk at wssi.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 14:53:26 -800
Subject: Varying bitterness in a single batch

I just started sampling my first attempt at brewing (hopped extract 
with some additional hops at the end for aroma), and am fairly 
impressed with how it turned out.  My wife and I have noticed however 
that the bitterness seems to vary quite noticeably between bottles. 
The beer was siphoned into a priming bucked and before bottling, and 
there doesn't seem to be any sediment other than that from the yeast, so 
I don't see how this could happen.  The only thing that I've noticed 
is that the bitterness seems to be stronger in bottles that haven't 
been refrigerated for as long.  Any idea what might be happening? 
- -- 
Ken Rentz          Wise Software Solutions, Inc. 
 
CompuServe 74151,677           BBS   (503) 526-0612 
Mailto:rentzk at wssi.com         FAX   (503) 520-1759 
http://www.gerbtool.com        Phone (503) 626-7800 
 

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From: greg at chtree.com
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 16:44:33 -0800
Subject: pump wanted

Hello All, 
 
    I'm considering buying a pump to re-circulate mash runnings up to 
170 deg, and to re-circ ice water during cooling.  Any suggestions? 
 
Greg 
San Diego 

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From: "Tom L. Vitti" <tvitti at ix.netcom.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 20:47:00 -0500
Subject: Trub-remove or not??

Hello Brewers!! 
Been lurking the list for a while-now I finally have a question! 
I am an extract brewer and my question is, should you or shouldn't you rack 
the wort off the hop pellet and/or spice-herb residue from the boil before 
primary ferm.? 
or should you just dump the whole lot into the primary and then when ferm. 
is over rack off into secondary leaving all the hop pellet and etc. behind. 
Sound confusing? Well I am 
Thanks to all in advance 

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From: Denis Barsalo <denisb at cam.org>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 21:36:47 -0500
Subject: Aseptox - One Step - Sanitiser

Hey gang, 
 There's this stuff here called Aseptox. I think in the US it's 
called One-Step. Does anybody know how it works or what the chemical make 
up of this stuff is? H2O3 ??? 
 The way I understand how it works, it's supose to sanitise as it 
releases oxygen. Sort of like peroxyde I guess. It comes as a white 
"crystal like" powder that I mix with water. No smell, no rinse. How can I 
*really* know it's working? 
 
Denis 
 
 

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From: habanero at juno.com (Raymond P Kasprowicz)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 00:01:51 EST
Subject: Why is there condensation in my Secondary Fermenter ?

I have had my Oatmeal Stout in the Secondary now for little over a week 
and I have noticed that there is some condensation on the top of the 
carboy. I have the cap on tight and the airlock filled but it's still 
there. Is it from the lack of C02 after the primary ferment ? Is this 
anything I have to worry about ? In the future, what can I do to prevent 
it if needed. 
 
Thanks all. 

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From: Edward J. Steinkamp <ejs0742 at dop.fse.ca.boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 1996 13:31:35 PST
Subject: English Strong Spice ale recipe

I am brewing the following English Strong Spice Ale on Thursday 
and would like to invite some comments on the recipe. 
Specifically, I would like comments on the spice schedule since 
I have not brewed a spice beer like this before. Private e-mail 
is fine.  Thank you. 
 
 
Target Values: 
- ------------- 
O.G.   1.070 
IBU  52 
Color  ~20 
Quantity 5.5 us gal 
 
Assumed extr eff = 75% 
 
Grain Bill 
- ---------- 
12 lbs 2-row pale (Gambrinus) 
1/8 lb chocolate 
1/8 lb roasted barley 
1.5 lb munich (gambrinus) 
1/2 lb victory 
1/2 lb malted wheat 
1/2 lb carapils   
 
Hop Schedule 
- ------------ 
1.5 oz Chinook  60 min 
1/2 oz Hallertauer 10 min 
1/2 oz Hallertauer  1 min 
 
1 tsp Irish moss for 15 min 
 
Mash 
- ---- 
Single step infusion mash at 153 F 
 
Yeast 
- ----- 
Wyeast London ESB #1968 
 
Fermentation 
- ------------ 
Primary at 65 - 70 F 
Rouse after 3 days to prolong fermentation. 
Secondary at 50 - 55 F for two weeks. 
 
Spices added to secondary fermentation of 5 gallons: 
- ---------------------------------------------------- 
1/2 oz. Ginger 
9 inches of cinnamon stick 
1 oz sweet orange peel 
1/4 tsp Nutmeg 
1/4 tsp Cloves 
 
Combine spices with boiling water and seep for 3 minutes.  Add 
tea and bones to secondary. 
 
What do you think?? 
 
Thanks, 
 
Ed Steinkamp 

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From: Thomas Penn <tjpenn at aol.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:03:46 -0400
Subject: Bravo to AJ

Thank you A.J. De Lange for an excellent experiment on O2 solubility. 
Your experiments provide credible, useable information that will improve 
all our beers.  Thanks again. 
 
Tom Penn 
Bordentown, NJ 

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From: "Ted Hull" <THull at brwncald.com>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 2:22:23 EST
Subject: Deschutes/bottle filling

Question 1: 
 
 Does anyone know how widely distributed Deschutes beer 
is? I have some friends who just visited Portland and loved it. 
Now they're hoping to find it somewhere in the Southeast. I 
tried to find the brewery online, but the only links were no 
longer good. 
 
Question 2: 
 
 I just bottled a batch of beer using a Phil's Philler 
and felt like it injected a lot of air into the beer as I filled 
the bottles. Anyone else get this impression? I'd been using one 
of those plastic fillers w/ a spring loaded valve at the end, 
but it kept falling off and causing me extreme stress as beer 
suddenly flowed everywhere. I've already bought a new one, 
though. The Philler would explain why I got some oxidation 
comments on the last beer I entered in a competition. 
 
Thanks 
 
Ted Hull 
Atlanta, GA 

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From: nelson at muck.isgs.uiuc.edu (Dan.Nelson)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 1996 08:16:36 -0600
Subject: sources for curacao orange peel

Hello Folks: 
 
Here's a list of sources for curacao orange peel.  Thanks to everyone 
who replied to my question.  Because I was in a hurry, I picked one 
semi-randomly (Frozen Wort, the first one to be recommended twice), 
so I don't have any comparative information to offer. 
 
Frozen Wort 
Greenfield MA 
413-773-5920 
Recommended by: bill-giffin, Geoffrey A. McNally, mg 
 
Homebrew Adventures 
Mooresville, NC 
704.535.2277. 
Recommended by: Keith.Royster 
 
BREWFELLOW'S 
Buffalo, NY 
http://www.dnci.com/brewfellow 
$2.99 for a 4oz package 
Recommended by: Terry 
 
American Brewmaster 
919-850-0095 
$1.10 for a 2oz package 
Recommended by: Jon 
 
FH Steinbart 
Recommended by: kdash 
 
Hoppy Troll 
New York (Cooperstown?) 
1-800-???-???? 
One oz (dry weight) about $1 
Recommended by: Peter A. Ensminger 
 
Barlymalt & Vine 
26 Elliot Street 
Newton, MA 
617 630-1015 
Recommended by: Dean_Goulding 
 
The Home Brewery 
Everett, WA 
(800) 850-BREW 
Recommended by: Itself 
 
Brewtopia  Homebrew Supply 
1-800-540-6258 
http://www.negia.net/~brew 
Recommended by: Larry Johnson 
 
St Patricks's 
Austin, TX 
512-832-9045 
http://www.stpats.com 
1oz - $1.75 
Recommended by: D.Kovatch, Barry Wertheim, KJ 
 
 
Thanks again for all the replies, 
Dan 

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From: "Bill Baker" <bbaker at mail.sunhealth.org>
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 07:30:46 PST
Subject: Water Quality Questions

     To All, 
 
     I have made the great leap forward and decided to go all grain.  My 
     question has to do with water quality.  For my extract recipes I was 
     buying r/o water; however, as I'd like to brew 10 gallon batches, I 
     would perfer to use my own water.  Here is a listing of inorganics in 
     my water.  Please email your responses to either my home email 
     (wallyaz at tribeca.ios.com) or to my work (bbaker at mail.sunhealth.org) 
 
                        mg/L 
 
     alkalinity         188. 
     arsenic            0.008 
     barium             <0.01 
     cadium             <0.005 
     calcium            34. 
     chloride           18. 
     chromium           0.008 
     copper             <0.01 
     flouride           <0.4 
     hardness           163. 
     iron               <0.01 
     lead               <0.005 
     magnesium          19. 
     maganese           <0.01 
     mercury            <0.0002 
     nitrogen, nitrate  1.94 
     nitrogen, nitrate  <0.01 (different test) 
     pH                 8.1 standard units 
     selenium           <0.005 
     silver             <0.05 
     sodium             25. 
     solids, dissolved  237. 
     sulfate            10. 
     zinc               0.03 
 
     Thanks, any insight is appreciated. 
 
     Bill Baker 
 

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From: rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 96 08:10:09 pst
Subject: Stainless in Seattle/temp control

     A friend has offered to make me a temperature controller for my 
     refrigerator. As I recall, someone has a schematic for a controller 
     somewhere on the net. Anyone know where? 
 
     (following was posted previously and showed up as "none") 
     Is anyone using the "no weld" false bottom-drain or thermometer 
     fittings from Stainless in Seattle? If so, how do you like them? Any 
     leaks, advantages/disadvantages? What do these items cost? 
 
     Thanks-Randy in San Diego 
 

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