HOMEBREW Digest #2298 Wednesday, January 1 1997

Digest #2297 Digest #2299
		(formerly Volume 02 : Number 018)


To send a message to the digest, send it to <homebrew at aob.org>
To subscribe to the digest, send a message to <majordomo at aob.org>
   with the text "subscribe homebrew-digest" in the body.
To unsubscribe from the digest, send a message to <majordomo at aob.org>
   with the text "unsubscribe homebrew-digest <your email address>"
   in the body.
If you are having difficulty unsubscribing, send a message to
   <majordomo at aob.org> with the text "who homebrew-digest" in the
   body.  This will return a list of all subscribers.  Search this
   list for your email address, and include it, exactly as it appears
   (including any other text) in your unsubscribe message.
If you are still having difficulty, send a message to <admin at softsolut.com>
   with a description of your message, and we shall attempt to resolve
   the problem.

  [No Subject Provided By Sender]
  many topics (Steve Alexander)
  Want to grow hops.
  Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #17
  Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #17
  EBU, EBC, etc. conversions?
  re: No Dark Beer In Boston?
  Re: Light water
  First Batch
  RIMS pump speed controller
  local brew in Tuscon AZ
  Immersion Chiller Prep...(Darrin P.)
  re:Counter-presure bottle fillers
  Coffee Porter (on the way)
  Re: Immersion Chiller Prep...(Darrin P.)
  re:Making Brewer's Best Kit Better
  Using kegs as sparage water containers
  Brewing vessels
  Dortmunder Water
  Max. height of mash grain?
  PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit?
  Wild Yeast
  Little Giant
  Yeast Culturing Question
  splitting gas lines
  Brewing Software
  Dragon Stout from Jamacia
  Uh oh?  (Green foam)
  Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #17
  1997 National Bay Area Brew-Off
  re: coffee stout
  Yeast culturing from beer bottle sediment

---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 96 03:32 CST From: postmaster at swpe06.sw.lucent.com Subject: [No Subject Provided By Sender] >From postmaster Tue Dec 31 03:32:07 1996 Subject: smtp mail failed Content-Type: text Content-Length: 2460 Your mail to swen01.lucent.com is undeliverable. - ---------- diagnosis ---------- <<< 554 Transaction failed -- I/O error - ---------- unsent mail ---------- >From uucp Tue Dec 31 03:31 CST 1996 remote from swpe06 >From homebrew Mon Dec 30 22:42:44 0700 1996 remote from dionysus.aob.org Received: from dionysus.aob.org by swpe06.sw.lucent.com; Tue, 31 Dec 1996 03:31 CST Received: by ihgp0.ih.lucent.com (SMI-8.6/EMS-L sol2) id DAA16407; Tue, 31 Dec 1996 03:39:18 -0600 Received: from cbig2.firewall.lucent.com by ihgp0.ih.lucent.com (SMI-8.6/EMS-L sol2) id DAA16402; Tue, 31 Dec 1996 03:39:14 -0600 Received: by cbig2.firewall.lucent.com (SMI-8.6/EMS-L sol2) id EAA09449; Tue, 31 Dec 1996 04:33:54 -0500 Received: by cbgw2.lucent.com; Tue Dec 31 04:35 EST 1996 Received: (from dionysus at localhost) by dionysus.aob.org (8.7.5/8.7.3) id WAA08247 for homebrew-digest-outgoing; Mon, 30 Dec 1996 22:42:44 -0700 (MST) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 22:42:44 -0700 (MST) Message-Id: <199612310542.WAA08247 at dionysus.aob.org> X-Authentication-Warning: dionysus.aob.org: dionysus set sender to owner-homebrew-digest at dionysus.aob.org using -f From: owner-homebrew-digest at dionysus.aob.org (Homebrew Digest) To: homebrew-digest at dionysus.aob.org Subject: Homebrew Digest V2 #17 Reply-To: homebrew at dionysus.aob.org Sender: owner-homebrew-digest at dionysus.aob.org Errors-To: owner-homebrew-digest at dionysus.aob.org Precedence: bulk Content-Type: text Content-Length: 42346 Homebrew Digest Monday, December 30 1996 Volume 02 : Number 017 Procedures: To send a message to the digest, send it to <homebrew at aob.org> To subscribe to the digest, send a message to <majordomo at aob.org> with the text "subscribe homebrew-digest" in the body. To unsubscribe from the digest, send a message to <majordomo at aob.org> with the text "unsubscribe <your email address>" in the body. If you are having difficulty unsubscribing, send a message to <majordomo at aob.org> with the text "who homebrew-digest" in the body. This will return a list of all subscribers. Search this list for your email address, and include it, exactly as it appears (including any other text) in your unsubscribe message. If you are still having difficulty, send a message to <admin at softsolut.com> with a description of your message, and we shall attempt to resolve the problem. 1 Re: Wheeler/CAMRA 2 Hospital O2 bottles 3 Also RE: Re-using Yeast 4 Using kegs as sparage water containers Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Dec 1996 22:36:06 -0300 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: many topics (Steve Alexander) Anyone doubting that trub in suspension affects the SG reading should examine Archimedes Principle until they too exclaim 'Eureka'. === Nathan L. Kanous II asks about lactic fermentation ... Of the several references none makes a lot of sense to me in practical terms. The Eric Warner "German Wheat Beer" book suggests pitching L.delbruckii with the yeast pitching and 'fermenting' for 3 months at 59F !!! Unfortunately L.Delbruckii should be dormant at 59F(15C). In Brewing Techniques 4(3) may/june 1996, Brian Nummer writes on brewing with lactobacilli and suggests among other things a split fermentation fermenting L.delbruckii 2-3 weeks at 97F(37C), which is an appropriate temp but can give any real world wort a DMS/creamed corn aroma in spades. Even tho' he suggests a 10 minute post lacto boil, my experience is that this won't banish the DMS aroma. Dennis Davison's article in Zymurgy v19,#5 describes several lacto methods including mixed yeast+lacto fermentations at low temps, and split ferments at high temps. Dennis also correctly notes that 113F(45C) is about the optimal temp for L.delbruckii. [Note that Warner's temp is 54F(30C) lower !!!!] My limited experience with thermophilic lacto cultures in wort is that you are constrained by the minimum temperature at which the bacteria will flourish and the DMS levels produced at higher temps. Perhaps a small hi temp lacto ferment using pale ale malt added to the mash or boiler - thus minimizing the DMS production and giving a 90 minute boil the remove DMS. Nathan also asks ... > 2) add lactic acid during boil - shouldn't boil off, ? Interesting question .... Lactate has two isomers D- and L-lactic acid. D- form boils at 103C at low pressure; the L- decomposes at 119C before it boils also at very low pressures. We should expect the boiling point to be substantially depressed at this very low pressure. Some bacteria produce only L- form, while others produce D- form lactic acid and some produce both, depending on the enzymes of the specific bacteria. L.Delbruckii produces only D-lactic as do quite a few thermophilic homofermentative lacto's. An alternative example is L.casei, a low temperature homofermentative bacteria that produces only L-lactic acid. Bottom line is that your lactic acid is almost certainly safe for a boil at 1 atmosphere but there are a lot of dependencies in determining this. == AlK asks about nitrogenous macromolecules in wort. Proteins, RNA and DNA and a handful of 'vitimins' and their breakdown products pretty much define it. Since 95% of the nitrogen from the RNA/DNA bases is soluabilized in a normal wort I doubt the high temp extraction comment refers to this. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 06:23:42 +0000 From: Jim Klett <tgc at execpc.com> Subject: Want to grow hops. Can anybody out there reccomend a good variety of hops to grow in USDA Zone 4 (Milwaukee, WI) that is both ornamental and good for brewing (i.e. HIGH in lupulin content)? Any info on sources would also be greatly appreciated. JK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 06:44:40 -0700 From: Dudley Leaphart <jdud at mcn.net> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #17 greg here you go - -- Dudley Leaphart Billings, MT jdud at mcn.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 06:45:14 -0700 From: Dudley Leaphart <jdud at mcn.net> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #17 Greg Here's another copy for your reading pleasure while sipping on an expresso. Speaking of which, I have to come to town today to get my eye checked out, I think I'll drop by and have you brew me a cup. - -- Dudley Leaphart Billings, MT jdud at mcn.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 09:30:51 -0800 From: "Kitty O'Neil" <kitoneil at tir.com> Subject: EBU, EBC, etc. conversions? Where might I find info regarding the calculation of IBU from EBU, SG from % solids, and EBC to SRM color units for extracts? I've looked at many of the obvious web pages to no avail. TIA. - -- Kitty O'Neil Laboratory Director Techmark, Inc. Voice: 517 322 0250 x219 Fax: 517 322 0470 Email: kitoneil at tir.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 96 09:32:44 -0500 From: WILLIAM_D_MCCALLUM at Non-HP-Exeter-om2.om.hp.com Subject: re: No Dark Beer In Boston? Item Subject: cc:Mail Text John Penn in V2 #17 was unhappy with the lack of Dark beer in Boston. My wife and I find this true in most places we ask for a non Budmillercoors. The usual answer is Sam Adams, your server knows it is a micro brew (maybe), it is popular(we sell a lot), it cost a little more (this helps the tip), and I don't drink beer but I serve, have heard, or understand this beer is good. The one I like is the Hilltop Steak House bar had a sign about their own brew, it was Red Dog. When I work as a merchandiser calling on variety store it was surprising how few of the owner (1 out of 90) put any time improving the lines offered to the customer. I have even talked to restaurant owners about adding another tap or taps. The answer is always, I sell 5 kegs of xxxx why should I change. A lot of what we see is, if it isn't broken don't fix it or I making money now why change. This is just my two cents. I wish everyone a Happy New Year. Bill McCallum Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Dec 96 10:19:56 EST From: "David R. Burley" <103164.3202 at CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: Light water Brewsters: Peter Calinski observed that his water which was saturated with air gave him a lower (0.992) SG than normal reading. He wonders if the Erie County Water Authority had just switched over from taking water from the top to the bottom as they do annually. He also puzzles about CO2 from the fermentation causing reading errors from this phenomenon. I remember being told by an old-timer water authority guy about the lake "turning over" in the Fall. Water has its highest density at 4 deg C and when surface water reaches this temperature it sinks. This carries oxygen down to the fishies and keeps the lake from freezing all the way to the bottom if it is deep enough, since the water colder than 4C stays on top and freezes. I remember cloudy air filled water from the tap in the winter. Your reading of 0.992 is equivalent to 5.5% alcohol in the water at 15.5 deg C and would require a considerable ( and very unlikely) amount of air to be dissolved in the water. Supersaturation is a possible explanation, but the fact that the cloudy water cleared seems to suggest that it wasn't supersaturated. A reading of 0.992 would require water of about 100F to give such a reading, so this is an unlikely explanation. Typically with gases dissolved in water the problem is the exact opposite. Bubbles clinging to the hydrometer raise the bulb and give a higher than expected reading. Which is why using a hydrometer to spot the end of a fermentation is extremely unreliable. I'm puzzled. Can you repeat this by making daily observations? BTW isn't Erie County home to Occidental Petroleum and Love Canal? Hmmmm. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 10:24:09 -0500 From: EPear26759 at aol.com Subject: First Batch Hello everyone. This is my first message about my first batch. I brewed it around the 1st of Nov and followed all the directions to a tee. It was a kit brew for an Amber Ale. Although I am not a fan of Amber Ales...I figured I would try it. The problems I have are the Following: First, I boiled the beer for about 20 minutes which was about 15 minutes longer than it said to(Actually it said that if you wanted a European style beer to brew for 20 minutes). Would this create a bitter taste when drank? Second, I have carbonation(I use regular cane sugar instead of corn sugar), but the head is not really frothy. It is more like an alka seltzer drink as for the head. Could anyone advise me on a better brew...I am going to attempt a light ale this weekend and would like a better tasting beer. That is about it for the problems...it was rather easy...all I had to do was follow directions...and the beer has a "distinct taste"...it isn't really bad...but it is not great. Does it get better with age? Could anyone suggest anything to help and what ingredience should I use. I would like to stay with kit brewing for now(Much easy to get a consistant product) and then maybe I will try extract brewing. Thanks for the help and please email me back at EPEAR26759 at aol.com Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 10:56:16 -0500 From: Keith Royster <keith.royster at pex.net> Subject: RIMS pump speed controller Hello friends and fellow homebrewers! It sure is good to see that the HBD is back and settling back down into its old form (somewhat). I've got a question regarding controlling the speed of the pump on my RIMS set up. In the past I have simply used a ball valve on the outlet side of my pump to throttle the flow. However, I am in the process of rebuilding parts of my system and am wondering about the possibility of using a ceiling fan speed controller. I have spoken about this with both Dion Hollenbeck and Evan Kraus, both RIMS enthusiasts who employ this method of pump speed control, and they both report that there has been no damage to their pump motor "so far." I know that using a dimmer switch can damage the pump motor, but it does seem logical that a ceiling fan speed controller would not cause the same damage since it is designed for that purpose (controlling a motor's speed). Plus it is a cheap solution at $7 - $15 from what I understand. Can anybody comment on this and assure me that I will not damage my pump motor using this method? Also, can anybody comment on whether this is even a better method of controlling the pump speed than just using a partially closed ball-valve? As always, TIA for the help. As soon as I get the new system completed, I will update my RIMS web page (address below) with new photos and information. Happy New Year!!!! Keith Royster - Mooresville, North Carolina "An Engineer is someone who measures it with a micrometer, marks it with a piece of chalk, and cuts it with an ax!" mailto:Keith.Royster at pex.net http://dezines.com/ at your.service - at your.service http://dezines.com/ at your.service/cbm -Carolina BrewMasters club page http://dezines.com/ at your.service/RIMS -My RIMS (rated COOL! by the Brewery) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 07:57:17 -0800 From: "M. Arneson" <marnes at bigfoot.com> Subject: Stout-Lax?!?! Yup! I made a chocolate oatmeal stout that seems to keep me regular! I can't figure out why it has this affect! Here are my ingredients: 6Lb Northern Brewer Amber Liquid malt 3Lb Muntons Dark dry malt 1/2 Lb chocolate malt 1/2 Lb Black Patent 1/2 Lb Flaked barley 1/2 Lb Quaker Oats 2 cups Hershey's baking cocoa I had an enormous amount of trubb (bout half of a 6 gal carboy) so instead of racking to leave the trubb behind, I just pitched the yeast thinking it would settle out some more. It eventually did but, did the yeast have anything to do with that? If anybody has ever had this problem with a batch of beer, Please let me know! I can't figure out if it's the chocolate, the trubb, or maybe something in my sanitation (bleach in everything except the keg, b-brite there). Thanks!! *************************************** Mark Arneson marnes at bigfoot.com *************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 11:06:36 -0500 From: Jeff <mcnallyg at in83b.npt.nuwc.navy.mil> Subject: local brew in Tuscon AZ Hi All, I will be traveling to Tucson, AZ during the week of January 8th. I checked out the Pubcrawler web page and found the following for brewpubs/breweries in Tucson: Gentle Ben's Brewing Co. River Road Brewery San Francisco Bar, Grill & Brewpub If anyone has some personal experience with these (or other) brewpubs/breweries in the Tucson area, please let me know. Private email is probably best. Hoppy brewing, Jeff ============================================================================== Geoffrey A. McNally Phone: (401) 841-7210 x152 Mechanical Engineer Fax: (401) 841-7250 Launcher Technology & Analysis Branch email: mcnallyg at in83b.npt.nuwc.navy.mil Naval Undersea Warfare Center Code 8322; Bldg. 1246/2 Newport, RI 02841-1708 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:08:11 -0500 From: Simonzip at aol.com Subject: Immersion Chiller Prep...(Darrin P.) Tomorrow (while the wife cooks that stinky sauerkraut) I'll be cooking up my first all-grain batch!! Santa gifted me with a Gott cooler and an EM. I'm going out right now to get a copper coil to fashion a chiller with. Question is: what do I need to do with the coper to prep it for wort chilling (scrub it with steel wool)? I don't need my first grain endevor to taste like an old penny. Direct replies would be nice, since I don't know if I'll get a digest before I brew (I didn't get one yesterday). TIA Darrin in Central PA Proprietor--Simpleton's Cosmic Brewery - --------------------------------------------- You never know just how you look through other peoples eyes. <B.H.S.> Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:18:23 -0500 From: PVanslyke at aol.com Subject: re:Counter-presure bottle fillers >Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 21:21:56 EST >From: Ken G Smith <sparge at juno.com> >Subject: Counter-presure bottle fillers > >Anyone with advice on Counterpresure fillers? I would like to buy one >soon, but have no experience with them and don't know a good one from >bad. Any help would be appreciated. Private e-mail ok. > >Ken Smith > >Britten & Smith Brewing >Where the B.S. stops at the label.... > >sparge at juno.com Ken, I just assembled and successfully used a CBF as described by Ken Schwartz (thanks Ken if you are reading this) at http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy. I have an investment of less than ten bucks in the filler. After washing and sanitizing, chill the bottles. Try to set up on a sturdy work area - essential for capping. Have your next bottle ready so you can set the apparatus into it while capping the filled bottle. Don't rush - it's not necessary. The picnic tap I have will snap to a full open position and this is handy. DON'T forget to close the tap before moving to another bottle. Paul VanSlyke >>> Brewing and Relaxing in Deposit,NY Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:35:16 -0500 From: "Scott W. Nowicki" <nowicki at voicenet.com> Subject: Coffee Porter (on the way) I've seen several posts lately referring to the use of coffee in = homebrewing, so I thought I would relay my own recent experiences to the = Digest. I was recently out in Seattle (in early December, before the storms!) = and I visited the Red Hook Brewery. Red Hook has several varieties of = beer other than their nationally distributed ESB. They are hoarding all = the rest, and it's a shame because they produce and distribute locally a = stout made with Starbucks coffee (actually, I think it was espresso). = And it's REALLY good. I had really never heard of coffee in beer until = then, other than Papazian's mention in his _New Complete Joy of Home = Brewing_ (p. 98). Stupidly, though, I never found out the details on = how they add the coffee, other than it is added in the final steps = (doesn't help much, does it). =20 Intrigued by all this, I set out to make my own "coffee" brew. I = researched the use of coffee in beer on the Cats Meow Recipe Database, = and found several stouts and a few porters. I decided to try a porter, = already planning to name it "Mocha Java Porter" (referring to the = "chocolatey" nature of porters). [I also referred to Papazian's book, = Miller's _Homebrewing Guide_, and Lutzen & Stevens' _Homebrew = Favorites_, as well as a few recent posts on the Digest, to give = everyone their fair credit for my recipe]. =20 It's bubbling away in the primary right now, and if it turns it out = okay, I'll gladly post my recipe. If you're really curious and can't = wait, feel free to email me. As far as the use of coffee, I used 1/2 lb. of coarse ground Sumatra = beans (a dark roast). I placed them in a grain steeping bag, and added = them to the wort after the boil, and before cooling. Starbucks says (in = a brochure) that coffee should be brewed between 195 and 205 degrees F, = and NEVER boiled, so I placed the bag in when the temp hit 205F (a few = seconds after the boil stopped), and let it steep for about 12 minutes, = stirring occasionally, until the temperature hit 190F. I had to keep = the pot on the stove to slow the cooling, but the heat was turned off. = I then removed the grounds, and cooled the wort as normal. =20 I has an obvious (and nice) coffee aroma, and a pretty good taste too -- = so far. When it's done, maybe in a month, I'll write an update and let you all = know how it is. For any craft brewers out there, I'd love to see a good coffee porter or = stout in my local tavern or beer distributor! =20 ______________________________ Scott W. Nowicki Geologist/Homebrewer Holland, Pennsylvania, USA <nowicki at voicenet.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:40:14 -0500 From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss at qc.bell.ca> Subject: Re: Immersion Chiller Prep...(Darrin P.) At 12:08 31/12/96 -0500, Simonzip at aol.com wrote: > >Question is: what do I need to do with the coper to prep it for wort chilling >(scrub it with steel wool)? I don't need my first grain endevor to taste like >an old penny. > Flush it with a vinegar/water solution, rinse well, and run an iodophor solution through it before using. The vinegar will clean any manufacturing residue, and the iodophor is just your regular sanitizing run. BTW, don't forget to rinse/sanitize your chiller after usage -- getting dried up gunk out of a CF chiller isn't easy, from what I hear. :-) LateR! js. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:44:45 -0500 From: PVanslyke at aol.com Subject: re:Making Brewer's Best Kit Better >Date: Mon, 30 Dec 1996 10:08:12 -0700 (MST) >From: Dionysus <dionysus at dionysus.aob.org> >Subject: Making Brewer's Best Kit Better > >My parents, not realizing I switched to all-grain earlier this year, gave me >a "Brewers Best" Cream Ale Kit (from LD Carlson) for Xmas. Actually I think >it was a hint to brew something that Mom and Dad want to drink. I've gotten >hints from Dad before like "You know, I really like Genesee Cream Ale". But I >digress. >snip> > >Any suggestions would be appreciated. TIA > >Chuck >BernardCH at aol.com >Music City Brewers >Nashville, TN - Music City USA Chuck I made this kit last summer (the only kit I have ever made). My notes don't indicate any changes to the recipe so I guess for once I followed directions ;) I used to drink vast quantities of Genny Creme Ale and at the time my wife still had an occasional can - she didn't like the results of my effort. My oldest daughter thought the brew resembled GCA. I wasn't all that fond of the results either. The beer I ended up with had a 'grassy' aftertaste that I was not able to determine the cause of. Also, FWIW, I kegged this batch. I seem to remember having read that Genny Creme is lagered and I did not. Paul VanSlyke >>> Brewing and Relaxing in Deposit,NY Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:23:18 -0600 From: "LaBorde, Ronald" <rlabor at lsumc.edu> Subject: Using kegs as sparage water containers Gary Eckhardt <dcigary at txdirect.net> asks: ...Does anyone see any potential problems with using a corny keg to hold my sparage water (with a towel wrapped around it for insulation) and delivering the water under pressure to my sparage arm... You did not mention your method of heating the water. One problem would be if you started to build up steam pressure in a closed vessel, you may find that you will be sparging yourself as well as your entire kitchen. If you are careful to use a pressure relief, it seems like a workable method for you. I really canot see why you feel that the gravity method is not practical for you. Really, how difficult is it to place a container higher than your mashtun? I could see you not wanting to pour hot water into the HLT from a high point because it would present safety concerns. I put an empty container up higher than the mashtun, then fill it with water from the garden hose (after flushing out any standing water in it), so there's no lifting of weight or hot water. The only concern I had was once we had a thunderstorm and I was worried that the wind gusts might blow the whole thing over. I use an electric heater element to heat the water. If I were using propane, this would open up a whole bunch of difficulties for me. Then, I would need to deal with getting the burner up high, the problem with CO in the kitchen, the loss of O2 in the kitchen, etc... So if you really want to do this, then yes I think it can be done. But be very careful with the pressure. I don't mean this to sound like a lecture, but sometimes the obvious can escape us. Happy brewing Ron Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 10:04:10 +0000 From: DC at carlsonco.com Subject: Brewing vessels I'm doing some research for a class and am looking for any schematics on large (read brew pub or micro sized not home brew) brewing equipment, storage tanks, mash tuns etc. Anybody have any ideas where I might find something like that, web, books? Thanks in advance for your help doug connolly dc at carlsonco.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 14:04:13 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Dortmunder Water Phil Wilcox writes: "Target profile ca+250 mg 25 na 70 cl 100 so4 280 hco3 550 Hardness 750. My water is not all that hard I dont soften it, If anything its high in Ca+, I always preboil it the night before...Any help would be much appreciated. Other tips on 5 gal stove top double decoction mashing will also graciously be appreciated." Try this (per 5 gal): 5 g epsom salt 5 g baking soda 4 g calcium chloride (available from HopTech, 800-DRYHOPS, usual disclaimer) 6 g gypsum In ion-free water this would yield ppm's of Ca = 131 Mg = 26 SO4 = 280 Na = 72 Cl = 102 CO3 = 189 Hardness = 436 Since you say you have high Ca, you'll add to the 131 figure (though maybe not to the 250 you're after). You could also add some chalk (up to 6 g!!) to the mash (it won't dissolve in water). Monitor mash pH closely if you do this, since that much carbonate could cause it to rise above the 5.0 - 5.4 "optimum" range. Personally, I'd skip it. Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 14:19:55 -0500 From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss at qc.bell.ca> Subject: Max. height of mash grain? I have the oportunity to buy an 30 gal. SS water boiler type of container which I could possibly turn into a mash tun. I haven't seen it yet, but I figure it's probably not that wide. Does anyone know the maximum, *practical* height for a mash tun grain bed? Also, this water tank is actually *two* tanks, a 30 gal. and 60 gal., one inside the other (a deal for $50!!). I've been toying with the idea of heating my sparge water in the 60 gal., and mashing in the 30 gal., keeping the design intact. This would mean that I could change the mash temp. by raising the temp. of the sparge water. Eventually, both would end up at 170F at mash-out, and I could pump the external water to the inner tank to sparge. Thoughts? :-) Thanks! js. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 14:20:50 -0500 From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss at qc.bell.ca> Subject: PH meter and Temp. probe in single unit? >From what I've read, several PH meters compensate for temperature. Do these PH meters also display the temp.? I've been thinking of buying a temp. probe and PH meter, but if I can get both in one unit.... Anyone know of some good models? Also, I know you have to calibrate the meter with two solutions, but I've also read that you have to store it in a special liquid too. What's the proper method for storing a PH meter? Thanks! js. Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Dec 1996 12:21:40 -0800 From: Mark Tomusiak <Mark.Tomusiak at amgen.com> Subject: Wild Yeast Subject: Time: 12:11 PM OFFICE MEMO Wild Yeast Date: 12/31/96 Greetings all...I was wondering if anyone has run into wild yeasts at some point during their brewing experience. I have had some slightly funky batches as of late, and I have been trying to figure out who the culprit it. I just made a Belgian strong ale with Wyeast 1338, which tastes good, but after bottling I observed some large particles adhering to the bottles close to the top, but below the liquid-air interface. I took a sample and looked at it under the microscope - the particles appeared to be huge conglomerations of yeast particles. Most of the yeast cells seemed to be nice, round, Saccharomyces-like ones, but I also observed the occasional group of elongated, rod-like cells. I think they are too big to be bacteria, so I am guessing they might be wild yeast. Does anyone know what flavors wild yeasts impart to beer? Where is the most likely point in the brewing process where they would contaminate the beer? Any input, speculation, etc. would be appreciated - thanks, Mark Tomusiak. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 16:13:12 -0800 From: Terry White <brew at buffnet.net> Subject: Little Giant Hi All, I have a three tier gravity feed system and I have been trying to find a pump to transfer water from my kettle to my hot liquor tank. While Christmas shoppong I came across a water transfer pump called the Little Giant. It is rated at 275 GPH which is plenty fast for me, my concern is heat and keeping my water from getting contaminated. I seem to remember a few people mentioning this pump on the old digest but I don't remember any specifics. Is there anyone out there who uses or has used the Little Giant in this manner. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Terry White Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 13:21:29 -0800 From: "Brander Roullett (Volt Computer)" <a-branro at MICROSOFT.com> Subject: Yeast Culturing Question I know this subject has been beaten to death, but i have another (i've never tried it, but i'd like to start) yeast culturing question. i have been noticing that every one has been using Dry Malt or similar stuff to culture thier yeasts. Can i use some other things such as Corn Sugar (which I got a bunch of) or something similar? Will this work, and how will it affect the tast of the beer? How much would I use? - -- >Badger, Innkeep of the Inn at Amberhaven >(SCA Frederic Badger, Red Tree Pursuivant, Barony of Madrone, An Tir) >(Work Brander Roullett, Software Tester, Microsoft, Seattle Wa, >a-branro at microsoft.com) > >badger at nwlink.com http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 15:37:46 -0600 From: Robert DeNeefe <rdeneefe at compassnet.com> Subject: splitting gas lines I've been saving my pennies and I'm now ready to start putting together a kegging system. I'm going to have a two tap tower (say that 3 times fast) on a chest freezer so I obviously need something to split the CO2 output to the two kegs. I also plan on bottling sometimes using a counter pressure filler so I'll need a CO2 line for that also. The cheapest solution I see to this is getting a stainless steel T connector ($6) and putting female 1/4" flare swivels on all my hoses. The 2 resulting gas lines stay hooked up to my kegs most of the time, but when I need to bottle I'll just disconnect the line from the keg I'm not filling from, remove the gas connector, and attach the hose to my filler. This seems simple enough, but since I have no experience doing this sort of thing I wanted to see if I was missing something. I've seen rather expensive brass manifolds at homebrew shops, and I'm wondering if a simple T connector for splitting to 2 lines and flare swivel connectors for easily changing the attachments at the end of my hose is good enough for what I want to do. It's certainly a lot cheaper. Are there any hidden gotchas I'm not seeing? Robert P.S. Happy new year! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 17:44:00 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff Hewit <jhewit at erols.com> Subject: Brewing Software Lee Bollard asks about brewing software. I have used the Suds program, both the DOS and Windows versons, and am very pleased. I have not tried any of the others Lee mentioned. When I was Windows-impared, the DOS version of Suds was, as I recall, the only software readily available. I downloaded it, and even paid to register it. I now use the latest Windows version. I understand that the auther has a WIN95 version in the works. Brew On! - ----------------------------------------- Jeff Hewit - Midlothian, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 16:34:47 -0800 From: "Brander Roullett (Volt Computer)" <a-branro at MICROSOFT.com> Subject: Dragon Stout from Jamacia Dragon Stout from Jamaica Has anyone on this list ever had one of these rather tasty Stouts? i found it at a specialty grocery store, and bought it to put on the house Dragon shelf. (statues, figures, paintings, etc) After tasting it i was blown away! it tasted wonderful, and I hate stouts (no flames please, just a personal taste prefernce) I was unable to decipher from the taste what its made out of (grains and what not). Can anyone help me with pointers, information, or even (GASP) a recipe? any help would be appreciated. Brander Roullett badger at nwlink.com www.nwlink.com/~badger/ Filled with mingled cream and amber I will drain that glass again. Such hilarious visions clamber Through the chambers of my brain --- Quaintest thoughts --- queerest fancies Come to life and fade away; Who cares how time advances? I am drinking ale today. - Edgar Allan Poe Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 19:40:56 -0600 From: kjamann at students.wisc.edu Subject: Uh oh? (Green foam) This is my first post to the HBD, so please be gentle. This weekend, I started my first all-grain brew (a bock) after a number of problem-free and tastey extract beers. I obviously made a number of changes in my protocol, but nothing that I would expect to have introduced contamination. Nonetheless, I'm afraid to admit that there's a green foam on top of my primary fermentation. Is there ANY reasonable explanation for this other than contamination? I used 4 oz of hop pellets for this beer, and I didn't filter them out of the wort before pitching the yeast. Could the slime possibly be a remnant of the hops? The beer is fermenting well. There's a nice krausen on top, and it's bubbling nicely. The gas blowing out the water lock smells like beer. No foul smell or anything. Am I kidding myself? Should I just face the fact that my beer is ruined? Or has anybody else ever observed this and not had a contamination problem? Oh yeah, I should add that I used Irish Moss for the first time in this brew. Boiled one teaspoon for fifteen minutes, etc. I only mention this because (maybe) the green moss could be floating seaweed. Now I think I'm starting to sound really silly. Help!!! Thanks for any input. Kurt J. Amann Madison, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 08:30:11 -0500 From: JLeClair59 at aol.com Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest V2 #17 << A few days before you need the yeast, you prepare 1 cup of hop wort (perhaps just corn sugar and water). After it's cooled to 80F you open the beer bottle and decant off the beer (and drink it) leaving about a quarter of the beer in the bottle. Then sanitize the top of the bottle with alcohol. Swirl the sediment in the bottle and pour the cooled sugar water into the bottle and attach an airlock. In a few days this should be ready for pitching (probably pretty quickly if the beer was bottled in the past two weeks). >> You certainly can repitch the sediment from one of your bottles, but DON'T pitch sugar and water...this makes the yeast enter an unatural cycle.....pitch an all malt hopped wort instead. John Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 08:03:52 -0800 From: Bob Jones <bjones at bdt.com> Subject: 1997 National Bay Area Brew-Off The Draught Board Homebrew Club is proud to present the 1997 National Bay Area Brew-Off on February 1, 1997. First, second, and third place awards (great ribbons, cash, and prizes) will be given in eight style categories in this AHA recognized event. Categories for judging are: Dry Stout Bock Porter Pale Ale India Pale Ale Barleywine/Wheatwine Holiday Mead For additional information.... http://www.bdt.com/home/bjones/babo97.html Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 97 18:22 +0100 From: Eckard Witte <EWitte at t-online.de> Subject: re: coffee stout Hello Daniel, Ive never brewed coffee stout, but I make a walnut-liqueur, for which I need coffee too. Ive got a coffee-mill I can regulate how fine the coffee-powder will be. I grind the coffee-beans as coarse as possible. I add the other ingredients and the alcohol and let it stay for a few weeks: it always tastes strongly of coffee. Eckard Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 11:12:03 -0800 (PST) From: Heiner Lieth <lieth at telis.org> Subject: Yeast culturing from beer bottle sediment A few days ago I requested information on starting a yeast culture from the dregs of a bottle of previously brewed beer. Thanks to those of you who responded. Here is a brief summary of the information I've collected: 1. The yeast cells in the bottom of the beer bottle are generally dormant for some time (many months, sometimes as long as a year); then they die. 2. You can make a good yeast culture this way, but you want to take good precautions regarding sanitation. Don't bother if the beer in the bottle from which your getting the sediment is in any way suspected of being contaminated (bad taste). 3. Each message mentioned: DON'T USE CORN SUGAR or any other sugar; use malt extract to create the culture medium. 4. It's a good idea to hop the culture medium heavily since that is supposed to inhibit any bacteria that might somehow make it into the culture. 5. It's apparently a good idea to do step culturing: Steve Lefebvre suggested: "From the bottle you want to put the yeast into 50 ml (.5 cup) of water and dried malt extract." ... "From this 50 ml you want to step up the yeast into 10X the volume so 500 ml or about 2 cups of a malt based starter. THis can then be pitched into a 5 gal ale recipe. For a lager you need about 2X this amount of yeast. By the way it takes about 1-2 days for each step up procedure, and the started will stay good in the fridge for about 1 week". If I get any other comments I'll pass them on after I've had a chance to try this in a few weeks. Heiner Lieth. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #2298