HOMEBREW Digest #2394 Thu 10 April 1997

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Inaccurate Scale (Rick Olivo)
  Hop Survey Results (Dave Riedel)
  decoction ("C&S Peterson")
  Haze Question/ ("C&S Peterson")
  Out of Balance? (DD)
  Re: Henius and Wahl (Spencer W Thomas)
  Extract Brewing Tips (Art McGregor)
  Kegging equals less bottling theory (TheTHP)
  Hop Profiles Pt. IV (John Goldthwaite)
  Favorite Extracts Anyone? (John Goldthwaite)
  Extraction.... (Tim.Watkins)
  alternative decoction (BAYEROSPACE)
  Black-N-Tan / Electric Chiller (KennyEddy)
  Re: Malt Analysis (Steve Alexander)
  Heat transfer & 55-gallon drums (Richard Stueven)
  Hops Analysis Testing Protocol P (eric fouch)
  Re: Pressure decoction - further thoughts (Steve Alexander)
  Dry yeasts: Coopers & Whitbread (Randy Ricchi)
  1997 Brew In (of local interest to NJ and PA brewers) (Mike Spinelli)
  Brewing Acids (KennyEddy)
  Old dregs (HBD 2392) (Edward J. Basgall)
  Pils vs. lager malt (dutch)
  Rochefort 10 recipe request ("MASSIMO FARAGGI")
  how to use sodium metabisulfite? (Lenny Garfinkel)

NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS: brew.oeonline.com Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at brew.oeonline.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ brew.oeonline.com BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), you must unsubscribe by sending a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L Thanks to Pete Soper, Rob Gardner and all others for making the Homebrew Digest what it is. Visit the HBD Hall of Fame at: http://brew.oeonline.com/ If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp from: brew.oeonline.com /pub/hbd ftp.stanford.edu /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 23:04:30 -0500 From: Rick Olivo <ashpress at win.bright.net> Subject: Inaccurate Scale George De Pero wrote: The other big improvement came when I realized that the shop I was purchasing my grain from was using a bathroom scale to weigh it out, and I was getting shorted every time!There I was, blaming my water, my pH, and myself for poor extraction when it was in fact caused by an inaccurate scale! George, you should report these jokers to your state's Department of Commerce's division of weights and measures. It is illegal in all 50 states to use a spring-based uncompensated scale like a bathroom scale for retail trade. In fact all bathroom scales say "NOT LEGAL FOR TRADE" on them. These people are perpetrating retail fraud on their unwitting customers. They deserve to be nailed, PDQ! This is an important issue. I wonder how many unsuspecting homebrewers have had their recipies messed up by similar scams. It sure goes to show that the buyer should beware-- look to make sure your grain seller is using a certified scale! Strange Brewer aka Rick Olivo ashpress at win.bright.net Vita sine cerevisia suget!!!(Life without beer sucks!!!) With apologies to Cicero Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 1997 13:28:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Dave Riedel <RIEDEL at ios.bc.ca> Subject: Hop Survey Results RESULTS OF THE HOP SURVEY: - -------------------------- "What 4-6 hops do you have in your inventory for ale brewing?" % of Hop Variety Votes occur. Bitter Finish - ------------------------------------------------------ E. Kent Goldings (EKG) 14 78% 2 7 Cascade 13 72% 1 7 Northern Brewer 10 56% 4 1 Saaz 10 56% 3 Perle 7 39% 1 1 Fuggles 6 33% 1 1 Hallertauer 6 33% 1 1 Centennial 4 22% Chinook 4 22% 3 Columbus 4 22% 2 Mt. Hood 4 22% 1 2 Galena 3 17% 1 Liberty 3 17% 1 1 Styrian Goldings 3 17% 1 Tettnang 3 17% 1 Challenger 2 11% 1 1 Willamette 2 11% 1 Brewer's Gold 1 6% Eroica 1 6% 1 Northdown 1 6% Oregon Goldings 1 6% Spalt 1 6% Total reponses 18 Total votes 103 Average value 4.682 Observations: - ------------- Clearly, EKG, Cascade and Saaz dominate as the preferred aroma/flavour hops. Northern Brewer is the most popular bittering hop with Perle not far behind. Statistically speaking, the sample set for this survey was pretty small so the results are not particularly precise. But, roughly, given a hop selection of 4 varieties, HBDers are most likely to have EKG, Cascade, Northern Brewer and Saaz in their freezers. Also common are Perle, Fuggles and Hallertauer. Most common bittering hops: 1. Nothern Brewer 2. Perle Most common finishing hops: 1. EKG 2. Cascade 3. Saaz other notes: - unless otherwise noted, 'Goldings' was taken to mean EKG - the bitter/finish incidences were only recorded if the voter specifically said he/she used those hops for that purpose - voters didn't differentiate flavour from aroma use - the original German strains were often specified in the case of Hallertauer and Northern Brewer; - if you combine the Mt. Hood and Liberty votes (both bred as US versions of Hallertauer) you raise their total to 7 - 4th highest finish hop - several brewers said they preferred to avoid high-alpha hops, but Chinook and Columbus (both >10% AA) were quite popular overall - higher alpha varieties were said to produce a more intense, sharp bitterness, while lower alpha hops produced a softer, rounded bitterness (for the same IBU level) - imported varieties were at least (if not more) popular than domestic ones suggesting the HBDers are not concerned with price relative to stylistic accuracy; it may also imply that decent quality imported hops are available to most HBDers - the survey request was designed for Ales, some responses did not specify only for that category, hence numbers for Saaz and the German noble hops may not correctly represent their usage * I'm not a statistician so don't torch me into a smoldering lump of goo if I've made some gross generalization or horrendous error. Dave Riedel Victoria, BC Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 22:57:33 UT From: "C&S Peterson" <CNS_PETERSON at msn.com> Subject: decoction HBDers - Jim Bentson provides an interesting datapoint for our decoction discussion. In his post, he describes a pro-brewer that pulls only the thin part of the mash for the *decoction* mash. Jim also states: "Second, the highly modified pale ale base malt is rich in enzymes compared to the lager malts usually used in decoction brewing, thus there are still plenty of enzymes left in the mash after pulling the liquid. " Is this true? I thought that for a given malt, the lower the modification, the higher the enzyme potential. Also, I would like to know what kind of pale ale malt the brewmaster used here. In my experience, Briess PA malt is very similar to their Klages Lager malt, in that it has loads of enzymes in it (I have found Klages to be VERY forgiving in the area of enzyme activity -- I get negative starch reaction faster even with just a pound or two (~5-10%) of Klages added to the grist...). Beeston Maris Otter, OTOH, I haven't found to be as strong in the enzyme area. As has been mentioned before, malt lot data sheets could solve this little riddle if we could get our hands on them. Also, I'd like to question whether this is in fact a decoction. As we have discussed on this thread before, there are varing components that bring in the malt flavor to the final product. Specifically, this procedure may provide some Mailliard and carmelization reactions, but will it bring some of the *desired* phenols and tannins into the brew that one would get by boiling the grain? My own WAG is that these other components provide the subtile "complexity" of decoction brews. I do not doubt the method used by Jim's friend will produce a fine, malty beer. I'm in favor of boiling the first runnings to get to mash out in all of my beers. I'm just trying to get a better handle on what is and what is not a decoction, and what in fact decoction brings to the brew that other alternative methods do not. So going back to our "sources" of malty flavors we have: 1. Mailliard Reactions (browning) 2. Decoction (extraction of grain flavors -- *desireable* phenols and tannins) 3. Sparge to Grist Ratio (e.g.: the "no sparge" technique) 4. Malt Selection 5. Mash Schedule Any thoughts? Chas Peterson Laytonsville, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 21:25:17 UT From: "C&S Peterson" <CNS_PETERSON at msn.com> Subject: Haze Question/ HBDers - Adam Rich asked a question regarding hazing (no, not the kind that occurs at the frat house....). Adam, have you tried polyclar or gelatin? In my experience the poly will remove the protein chill haze very well, and the gelatin will work on suspended yeast. Also, if you can possibly stand it, let you beer sit in the fridge for a few weeks and it may clear by itself. Mark Bayer speaks out about high-alpha hops lending a harsh bitterness. In general I agree Mark, but there are some hops out there (Northern Brewer in my experience) that are not so high alpha but IMHO still have the same effect. Also, I would strongly recommend one high-alpha hop variety -- Columbus -- for bittering. This hop is great. I've used it in lagers and ales with great success. In nearly all my beers this year I wished I had used more Columbus for bittering! It is the only mid-to high alpha bittering hop that I believe approaches the smooth bittering flavor that the nobles bring. Just datapoints, Chas Peterson Laytonsville, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 07:52:37 -0500 From: DD <dunn at tilc.com> Subject: Out of Balance? - --MimeMultipartBoundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In one of my mentally weaker moments I misread the specific gravity of an all grain, brown porter just as I began the boil (recipe calls for o.s.g.: 1.050; f.s.g.: 1.015), so I added 2 1/2 lbs. of pale malt extract syrup when in fact I was right on target as far as specific gravity is concerned. From past experience I know to not worry and simply taste the results, but just in case this beer is way out of balance bitternesswise, does anyone have any experience with adjusting bitterness after fermentation has begun? Seems I have heard/read that one can add hop extract to the finished beer. Boil hops in water and add the tea to taste? Dry hopping does not effect bitterness but aroma, correct? However, I have found that dry hopped ales do seem more bitter...smell effecting taste? Obviously this beer will not be true to style! w - --MimeMultipartBoundary-- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 09:27:46 -0400 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Henius and Wahl With some trepidation, I announce the experimental online availability (i.e., it may go away or move without prior notice) of approximately 500 scanned page images from the 1902 (2nd) edition of _The American Handy Book of the Brewing, Malting and Auxiliary Trades_, by Robert Wahl and Max Henius. The URL is <http://hubris.engin.umich.edu:8080/Wahl/>. The pages are 120 DPI GIFs, downsized from 600 DPI scans. Some page defects (creases, tears) are visible, but I did my best to minimize such problems. You will need a frame-capable Web browser to view the pages (e.g., Netscape 2+, Internet Explorer, etc.), and since they are images, a text-only browser (e.g., lynx) won't do you much good. I scanned the following chapters: Front matter (title page, preface, table of contents) Brewing Materials Pure Yeast Culture Malt House Outfit Malting Operations Brewery Outfit Brewing Operations Utilization of the Byproducts of the Brewery The Bottling Department of a Modern Brewery Figuring in the Brewery Miscellaneous Information Bibliography Dictionary of Technical Terms Publications Consulted I have no plans to scan the other material, as the book is back in the closed stacks, and it would not be easy for me to get my hands on it again. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 10:32:43 -0500 (EST) From: Art McGregor <mcgregap at acq.osd.mil> Subject: Extract Brewing Tips Hi Everyone! This is a post for those who still extract brew, like me :^) I've been brewing for 3-4 years, and this weekend will start batch #71. I thought a few of my experiences might be of some interest to some of the newbies or extract brewers out there. Some may disagree with the suggestions, but as they say "your mileage may vary (YMMV)." If I won the lotto, I would probably do it differently too (have more time and money for this great hobby) :^) <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> <<>> Wash Your Yeast - I use primarily one yeast -- American Ale I (#1056) for most of my ales. Wash the yeast as described in the Yeast FAQ. After use, store in 1 quart Mason Jars for up to 30 days with no problem. Washing of yeast will keep costs down. I use a smack pack ~20 batches before I buy a new one. Bulk Extract - I buy all of my malt extract in bulk. I have used both Dry Malt Extract (DME) and Liquid Malt Extract (LME). The bulk extract costs more up front, but keeps the total cost down. DME can be bought for ~$100 for 55 lbs plus ~$5-10 Shipping & Handling, so is about $2/lb or $12-14/batch. The DME stores easy if kept dry, but is messy/sticky when separating into 6-7 lb packs. Recently I have switched to bulk LME, sold in 33 lb (3 gal) containers for ~$50 (locally bought so no S/H), so is about $1.5/lb or about $10/batch. 80 oz (or 2 1/2 qts) is slightly more than two 3.3 lb cans. After pouring out the bulk LME, pour 2 shots of vodka into the bulk LME container, swrirl around top of LME, then put lid back on. The vodka has kept anything from growing in the container between use (YMMV -- I usually brew every 2-3 weeks). Light Unhopped Malt Extract - Buy only light or extra-light unhopped DME or LME. You can add small quantities of dark malt to darken (usually chocolate for most of the darkening), and add hops for bitterness. Bulk Hops - I also buy my hops in bulk. Pick multiple types of hops in 1/2 - 1 lb (8 - 16 oz) quantities, for a total weight of 3-5 lbs, (e.g., Freshops, HopTech, Just Hops, F.H. Steinbart, and others). A vacuum sealer machine is a good investment, need to use oxygen barrier bags, which most of the hop vendors ship your hops in. You should be able to buy a few extra bags from the vendor when place your order. You can also store hops in mason jars. Must be kept in freezer to keep alpha loss down. Bulk Specialty Grains - If you can get specialty grains in 5 lb bags, they save money also. Break into 1 lb units for brew day. Post Boil Cooling - I fill three (sanitized ) 1 gallon jugs with tap water, and put in fridge the night before brewing. At start of brewing, I put 1 of the jugs in the freezer. After boiling the wort (~45 min), I put the kettle in an ice bath in the sink. Then I remove the 1 gallon jug from freezer, and pour the ice water into the kettle. This drops the temp of the wort faster than the ice bath would by itself. Art McGregor, Lorton, Virginia day (mcgregap at acq.osd.mil) night (apmcgregor at nmaa.org) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 11:26:46 -0400 (EDT) From: TheTHP at aol.com Subject: Kegging equals less bottling theory Chris, I thought the same way when I started kegging, but its bad theory. Reality goes something more like this...With your new kegs, you now have new storage capacity, Easy capacity. So guess what, More Capacity means more brewing! :) More brewing means more variety! :) This is about where you realize that not only drinking but brewing is also addictive. ;) With all this more brewing, there is an increased need for turnover which is kind of difficult if you have 4 kegs in a fridge on the back porch. It means hosting a BIG Party every other week. OR give some away! Take some to Mom and Dad, your boss, your friends! Trade it for yard work, what ever, This is only pratical in bottles. (remember you can't sell it!;) Sure you can invite yourself over for dinner and bring a pitcher of beer with you, but you'll have to walk, no open alcohol in a vehicle laws...You can't send in a keg to a homebrew competition. And they are a PITA to haul to a brew club meeting. Bottling is a necessary part of home brewing. Have you made a CPBF yet? My guess is no. But ill put money on the fact that you will. Next time your at the homebrew shop take a close look at Phils Phittings, If you've ever sweated copper pipes, you can build your own cheaper. My uncle has been making wine at home for 30 years, now he's a professional Enologist. (Wine maker) Talk about some Good Trading! Not to mention laboratory services...You may want to hold onto all those bottles, you need to create a good distribution system. Else your waistline will be the only thing thats distributing. Any distributor will tell you bottles don't always make it back to you, and why some are out, you'll want to fill others. In reality After I acquired kegs, my bottle needs went up not down. Yours may be different, you may be a better self controlled brewer, you may be able to handle the urge to brew better than I, but if you spent the money to buy a kegging system, Ill bet not, its contagious, its addictive, its almost a disease. Kegging is a symptom as is entering contests, reading the HBD during lunch, and studying the bjcp guide at night, or dreaming of your own PICO system, if your not careful your be building a 2nd garage, or buying a new house your weekends could become mini trips to far away contests, and your vacations are planned around European pub crawls! Until you finally amass all of your notes and you retire early to write a book on brewing! AAAGGGGGG!!!!! Maybe your right, maybe you should give away your bottles.....just a thought....naa, I wouldn't do it. - ------------------- I've just found a cheap source of honey. Are there any good on-line sources of how-to mead makeing out there? Wheres a good place to start? Mead, Cyser, meloguin (sp) methoguin Crystal Meth? (NOT) Braggot? I saw some cider in the store last night it had Potassium Sorbate and Maltic acid listed as additives, how bad is that. I know your supposed to get no-preservatives for cider, but I don't feel like waiting till october for apple season again. Denis, What part of the country are you in? Ill take those mead yeasties off your hands! - --------------------- Rae Christopher J asked, 2) is there any advantage to crushing/grinding/milling/discombobulating the grains before steeping? Yes, you will improve extraction and can reduce time by crushing the grains. Some homebrew shops will let you do it at the shop. If not a Corouna mill is only 15-30$ depending on where you shop. a rolling pin in an extra heavy zip lock works ok. in a pillow case works better for larger amount. be sure to use a hard under surface and a sturdy rolling pin. In all cases I reccomend using a grain bag (a sock made of cheese cloth) for steeping 1) do i steep before or after adding the extract? Steep before or during in a differen pot. I preffered before Using a 3 pot system. In you largest boiling kettle heat up all of your normal water. With another pot draw out some water for steeping. Add your grain bag to this pot and steep for a while. See below. Just before steeping remove a gallon of hot water from your big pot to the third pot and raise temp to 170 deg. After steeping use tongs and a collendar or kitchen strainer to fish out the grain bag from your new wort. Let it drip into the new wort. after its done dripping place it over you brew pot and have A DIFFERENT person SLOWLY pour your new wort over and through your grainbag/strainer. Do the same thing with the pot of 170F deg water. This is called sparging. It filters excess husk and malt particals that escaped the grain bag and rinse's the extra sugars from the grain. If you see that your rinsing is not pulling any more color stop. Over sparging is not the best thing, but its not evil either especially with only partial grain amounts. Now you can take your kettle off the burner and add your liquid or dry malt extract (unmalted barley extract wouldnt contain much sugar [any?] Its the malting that makes the starches and sugars weather its Barley wheat or rye) After everything it is all disolved return to burner and proceed to boiling 3) do i need to maintain the steeping at a certain temperature? there is much debate here, I dont have my references with me, but the general rule is just dont boil it. I steep at 150F then raise to 170F before sparging 4) how long should i really steep? This depends mostly on what your steeping and how good your crush is. Some grains like standard Pale Ale and Pilsner malts need specific times at specific temps to convert starch to sugar. This process is "the mash schedule" Most malts used for steeping and partial mashing dont require too much attention to this. Crystal, Chocolate, Black you dont have to worry about, some would add Carapils to this list other would not. Short answer 30 min is fine. 5) can i do hops like this as well? Hops are a whole different ball game. For the most part Hops are added during the boil. However, First wort hopping (FWH) could, in theory be done while you are "Sparging" your grains into your boil pot. Though I've never heard of an extract/partial mash brewer bothering with it. In order to "bitter" your beer you need to Boil you hops for about an hour. In order to "flavor" your beer with hops you need to Boil you hops for about a half hour. In order to "smell your hops" your beer you need to Boil you hops for no more than 5 minutes. or not at all. just add them at the end of the boil and let them sit in the beer while it cools. Use the same grain bags for Whole Hops. I don't like hop pellets personnaly, to difficult to remove from the beer. Good luck! welcome to the sport, and don't let the overwhelming amount of technical talk scare you off...just brew it! Phil Wilcox Poison Frog Home Brewery (Still 5gal All-graining in my Jackson Mi kitchen) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:06:15 -0400 (EDT) From: ir358 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John Goldthwaite) Subject: Hop Profiles Pt. IV Kent Goldings--Imported-(U.K.)--Finishing Traditional old English hop. Referred to as East Kent Goldings if grown in East Kent, Kent Goldings if grown in Mid-Kent, and Goldings if grown elsewhere. Alpha Acid: 4-5.5% Beta Acid: 2-3.5% Aroma: Gentle, Fragrant and pleasant Storage: 65-80% Used For: Classic English ales, kettle hopping, dry hopping, spicy flavor. Pale ales, Bitters, Porters, Stouts. Substitutions: Goldings (British Columbia), Fuggle, Willamette. Liberty--Domestic--Finishing Released in 1991, aroma variety with close similarities to the imported German aroma varieties. Alpha Acid: 3-5% Beta Acid: 3-4% Aroma: Mild and pleasant, quite fine. Storage: 35-55% Used For: Finishing. American and German ales and lagers. Subs: German Hallertau, Mt. Hood, Crystal. Mount Hood--Domestic--Finishing Aroma variety with similarities to the German Hallertau and Hersbrucker varieties, released in the U.S. in 1989. Alpha Acid: 5-8% Beta Acid: 5-7.5% Aroma: Mild, pleasant, clean, light, and delicate. Storage: 50-60% Used For: Aroma and flavor. American and German ales and lagers. Subs: German Hallertau, Liberty, Crystal. Northern Brewer--Domestic--All Purpose A true dual-purpose hop containing moderate amounts of alpha acids combined with an acceptable aroma profile. Alpha Acid: 8-10% Beta Acid: 3-5% Aroma: Medium-strong, some wild American tones, (what the hell does that mean!) woody with evergreen and mint overtones. Storage: 70-80% Used For: Good for bittering with strong flavors and very fragrant. Steam beers, Dark English ales, and German lagers. Subs: Galena, Perle. Maybe the wild American tones means boorish and arrogant when traveling abroad. Actually I have come to LOVE Northern Brewer. This is a great hop. More in the days to follow. - -- BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:28:57 -0400 (EDT) From: ir358 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John Goldthwaite) Subject: Favorite Extracts Anyone? I got to thinking it might be nice if the more experienced folks were up for a little thread on great/tasty/fave extracts, to help out the newbs and intermediates in the crowd. What'ch'all think? I use Munton/Fison, Alexanders most of the time. Found John Bull to be very good also. I like using the lightest stuff I can find and then adding specialty grains for flavor and color. Use leaf or plug hops and liquid yeast and your extract beers will start to approach the all grainers. Over and Out. JG. Oh, used Ireks a couple times and the early results are VERY VERY promising. This may be my new favorite. Excellent stuff. - -- BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER BREWMOREBEER! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 13:01:36 EDT From: Tim.Watkins at analog.com Subject: Extraction.... I need some help from the all grain guru's. I'm getting miserable extraction efficiency. I'm only getting about 21pts/lb/gal. A little background on my mashing procedure: Due to my kettles (1- four gallon, and 1- five gallon), I split the mash. I do a single step infusion at about 153-4. Half the mash goes in the four gallon kettle, the other half goes into a 4 gallon coleman cooler. I rest for about 90 minutes (until negative iodine test). In the meantime, I'm heating up five gallons of sparge water in the five gallon kettle. I heat the sparge water to about 180F. My sparging system consists of a zapap style lauter tun. I scoop the grains into the bucket and start recirculating. Due to the space between the false bottom, and the spigot, I have to recirculate about 1gallon. I collect 7 gallons of wort over about 45 minutes by pouring the sparge water on top of the grain bed trying to keep about 1/2 ince of water over the grains. I collect the wort into my fermentor because that's the only container I have that is big enough to hold 7gallons. Next, I gently stir the wort to make sure it is well mixed, and siphon it off into the two kettles and begin the boil. I boil for about 70 minutes, and cool. I just made the jump to all grain a few (3) batches ago, so I was expecting poor efficiency, and I made up for it with the amount of grain I used. The recipe's didn't suffer, and the beers have all came out great (IMHO). However, I'm wondering what I can do such that my efficiency will be better. I don't own a mill, so I use the one at the brew shop. I'm pretty sure that I'm not getting a great crush, but it's pretty good. And I also don't heat the mash to a mashout temperature. Other than those two factors, is there anything else I may have missed? Thanks in advance, Tim in Lowell, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 12:27 -0600 From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (BAYEROSPACE) Subject: alternative decoction collective homebrew conscience: jim bentson wrote: > Second, the highly modified pale >ale base malt is rich in enzymes compared to the lager malts usually used in >decoction brewing, thus there are still plenty of enzymes left in the mash >after pulling the liquid. this is counter to most descriptions of malt i have read. a true pale ale malt will have less enzyme content than a true lager malt. the reason for this is the higher kilning temperature given pale ale malts. the higher temperature destroys more enzymes as compared with the lower temp. kilning that lager malts receive. despite this, there is still plenty of enzymatic power in most pale ale malts, and i have no problem believing that a decoction that pulled a portion of the liquid instead of the solid would have enough enzymes to convert itself after recombination. keep in mind that the modern pils malt is not typical of the grossly undermodified lager malts that made decoction mashing necessary to make good beer back in the old days. i don't think undermodified malt is used much by homebrewers. the method described by jim where a portion of the liquid is withdrawn and decocted would surely work with modern lager malts, given the fact that it succeeds with pale ale malt. brew hard, mark bayer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 14:10:24 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Black-N-Tan / Electric Chiller A further speculation on the Floating Guiness phenomenon is that perhaps the dissolved nitrogen in draft Guiness helps suspend the liquid at the top of the glass? On the electric chiller question and the pre-chiller answers, I have another suggestion. I mounted a swamp cooler pump suspended in the lid of a 5-gal plastic bucket. Two holes drilled in the lid pass the tubing from the pump to the chiller coil (already in the wort), as well as the exhaust tubing from the chiller back into the bucket. The pump outlet tubing has a hose fitting to mate with the chiller coil inlet. I fill the bucket with ice and water, use regular tap water for most of the chilling, then switch to the recirculated pumped icewater. The fairly high velocity of the exhaust back into the bucket keeps the icewater well-mixed for best heat transfer. You could use a submersible pump, but it can be costly to get a unit with enough GPM and head. Here in the desert southwest, swamp cooler pumps can be had for under $10, and they'll push a bunch of water in a hurry. Even in winter, my tap water is rarely below 60F (up to 85F or more in summer!) so this has become SOP for the Bluff Canyon Brewery. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 15:52:42 -0400 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Re: Malt Analysis rjlee at mmm.com wrote ... > Schreier DWC Minnesota Malting > 2row special pils 2row 2row > pale > 8/96 8/96 8/96 1997 1994 > ------------------------------------ >moisture 4.0 3.5 3.0 4.1 4.5 >Extract FG dry 81 81 82 81 80 >F/C 1.5 1.5 2.0 1.4 1.8 >color 1.6 3.6 1.5 1.8 1.8 >Alpha Amylase 50 45 48 54 44 >Sol. Protein 5.2 5.1 4.4 5.2 5.8 >Tot. Protein 11.5 11.5 10.0 11.8 13.5 >S/T 44.0 43.5 44.0 44.1 40-46 Diastatic Power 120 --- 105 --- --- > >I don't have any for Breiss at this time. I've added diastatic power for Schreier 2-row and DWC Pils above, tho the numbers are from '94 and '95 the other figures are very close. Breiss Breiss Durst 2row 6row pilsen pale pale 6/96 6/96 1/97 --------------------------- moisture 4.0 4.0 3.0 Extract FG dry >80.5 >78 80 F/C <1.8 <1.8 1.5 color 1.8L 1.8L 2.9EBC Alpha Amylase 46 44 --- Sol. Protein ~5.4 ~5.7 4.7 Tot. Protein 12-12.5 12.5-13.5 10.9 S/T 44 44 42.9 Diastatic Power 140 150 --- can anyone add a recent english pale-ale malt analysis ? Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 09:51:58 -1000 From: Richard Stueven <gak at aloha.net> Subject: Heat transfer & 55-gallon drums Charles Rich <CharlesR at saros.com>, on Randy Reed's question about getting better heat transfer from a propane-fired converted Sankey keg: > Cut the bottom off of a 55-gallon, or smaller, drum and then cut a wide > circular opening out of the other end that just admits your keg. This > can be dropped over your keg and heater to act as a jacket to contain > the heat you are losing out of the sides of your kettle and which is > also flowing up from underneath it. I don't use a converted keg, but my 15-gallon kettle is very nearly the same diameter as my King Kooker, and they fit nicely into a 30-gallon steel garbage can. I cut a hole low in one side to admit the propane hose, but otherwise, it's stock. This setup cut my propane consumption by a factor of five. have fun gak (back on hbd after a 2+ year absence) - -- Richard Stueven gak at beerismylife.com http://www.aloha.net/~gak The Moloka`i Brewing Company http://molokaibrewing.com Beer Is My Life! http://beerismylife.com Breweries On The Web http://www.aloha.net/~gak/beer/brewwww.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 97 14:57 EST From: eric fouch <S=eric_fouch%S=fouch%G=eric%DDA=ID=STC021+pefouch%Steelcase-Inc at mcimail.com> Subject: Hops Analysis Testing Protocol P Date: Tuesday, 8 April 1997 3:52pm ET To: STC012.PREQUEST at STC010.SNADS From: Eric.Fouch at STC001 Subject: Hops Analysis Testing Protocol Pt 1 In-Reply-To: The letter of Monday, 7 April 1997 8:53am ET Dear HBD- Not too long ago, during the Home Grown Hops Acid Analysis thread, somebody posted the analytical techniques and testing protocol for analyzing home grown hops. Being that I'm trying to get a local analytical chemistry lab interested in offering such analyses, and because I am "HBD Searching Impaired" could the people/persons who posted the forementioned analytical techniques, or anybody else who fancies themselves a Hops Testing Guru reply to me via e-mail with the appropriate responses (which hopefully won't include "Piss up a rope"). If I can get the lab interested in providing such services, I'll post the particulars to the Digest (and gloat if I wangle free testing outa deal). Bob- "What'er ya doing eh? Like, we don't know how to drive big trucks" Doug- "Ya, but dis is a BEER truck, eh?" Bob- "...Let's go]]" -Strange Brew Eric Fouch Efouch at Steelcase.com Bent Dick YactoBrewery | Assuming Global production ~ 2x10-24 Barrels/year, for those of you out there (Jim) losing sleep. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 16:01:57 -0400 From: Steve Alexander <stevea at clv.mcd.mot.com> Subject: Re: Pressure decoction - further thoughts Charles Rich wrote ... >temperatures of Munich malt at 238F (144C) which also undergoes some 238F = 114.4C, 144C=291F. Sorry for the BW, but it's an important point. At 100C to 120C your likely to get a substantially different flavor effect than at 144C. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 16:03:57 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: Dry yeasts: Coopers & Whitbread I've seen a lot of references to Coopers (and?) Adelaide's sparkling ales on the HBD. I don't remember if they were recent postings since I've also been perusing the archives quite a bit lately. Anyway, I'm wondering if the Cooper's dry yeast is comparable to the liquid australian yeasts put out by YeastLab, Wyeast, etc. I generally use liquid yeasts, but the Coopers dry is readily available, and if it is clean, and as fruity as I hear the liquid version is, I would like to try it. I've also heard the dry Whitbread yeast now available is superior to the stuff that was around a couple of years ago. In the past, you could get a nice yeast character sometimes, and other times you might get something really funky. Does anyone know what flavor contributions these yeast give, and what ferm temps, aeration requirements, etc. are needed for proper flavor? Thanks. R.B.Ricchi "Should anyone thirst, let them come unto me and drink" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 97 17:24:48 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: 1997 Brew In (of local interest to NJ and PA brewers) HBDers, For those living in South Jersey, Philly and surrounding areas, the Gloucester County HBers are having their 2nd annual Brew In on Saturday, May 3rd (rain or shine). All are invited to bring their breweries, grains, hops and yeast and have at in an orgy of brewing madness!! Last year the record was established at over 100 gallons of beer brewed in one day. This year we hope to shatter that record with brewing demos performed by 5 gaollon extracts all the way up to 1 barrel RIMs systems. Water hookups will be provided (bring your garden hoses). Location will be behind Beercrafters HB store in Turnersville NJ. Call 609-2-BREW-IT for more info. Mike Spinelli Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 18:08:27 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Brewing Acids I'm working on incorporating A.J. deLange's excellent posting on using acids for brewing water pH adjustment into a new rev of BreWater (it will be 3.0). He gave pK data for seven different acids, but my guess is that 95% of us use either lactic or phosphoric, with a few perhaps using HCl. These three I'm thinking I'll keep, dumping the rest. Sulfuric, acetic, citric, and tartaric don't strike me as big brewing ingredients. But what do I know. I'd like to get "all y'all's" opinion (that's plural for "y'all") as to which acids should be used in BreWater 3.0. It's really not so much a matter of simplifying the programming, but rather a matter of clutter and excess baggage. Also, if you use BreWater and have any comments or suggestions for changes/additions to the program, now would be a good time to do so. Many of you have already dropped notes concerning BreWater, and I thank you for the feedback. If you've not used BreWater but have an interest in brewing water formulation and adjustment (vis a' vis "Classic Brewing Cities' Water Profiles") , you can download a copy of version 2.0 from my web page. It's free; includes on-line manual/help. Requires Windows 3.X or '95. Not sure if it runs on NT (anybody?). Direct e-mail responses would be best. If any trends develop counter to my speculation about which acids we're using, I'll post a summary. And I hope to get BW3.0 out quite soon. Thanks, all y'all. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Apr 1997 17:44:21 -0500 From: ejb11 at psu.edu (Edward J. Basgall) Subject: Old dregs (HBD 2392) ***************Begin included message***************** Date: Sat, 5 Apr 1997 12:41:56 -0500 From: Denis Barsalo <denisb at cam.org> Subject: Old Dregs Lurkers and Posters, I often collect the sludge at the bottom of my fermenters into sterilised peanut butter jars and then store them in my beer fridge. If I use it within a couple of days, I just re-pitch it as is; if it's a couple of months later, I pitch it to a starter. I've never had any problems. This time however, I've piched a year old jar of Wyeast 2278 (Czech Pils) on Wednesday afternoon, and it has only started to show some activity this morning (Saturday). It's sitting at room temperature, since I want to give it a good chance of reviving. Do you think I'm pushing it? Are one year old dregs basically dead? Is there a sure fire way to know if this is 2278 yeast activity I'm seeing or somekind of bacterial infection? I was thinking of letting it ferment out and then tasting the starter "beer". I figure if there are any off flavors, I can throw it out, if it tastes OK, I can use it. Comments? Denis *******************end included message********************** Denis, I have been doing basically the same thing except I put some dregs in crown capped bottles in my refrig. The main problem I've had is that some are rather carbonated when I open them to re-pitch, especially if the storage time is prolonged. Froth! I examine my yeast under a light microscope and do some viability counts using a trypan blue dye exclusion test and a hemocytometer slide. After about a year the viability may range down to 30-40% but yeast are pretty good recyclers and the viable ones will use the nutrients. If you can get ahold of a microscope you can easily look and see if you have yeast or bact, but suspect you will have yeast if you have been good about sanitation. cheers Ed Basgall SCUM State College Underground Maltsters State College, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 08 Apr 1997 22:05:53 -0400 From: dutch <leake.5 at osu.edu> Subject: Pils vs. lager malt Date: Thu, 03 Apr 1997 09:34:06 +0000 From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous at tir.com> Subject: Pils malt vs. Lager malt < Greetings. I was thinking of making a nice pilsner in the future. As I found out, my local supply shop can only obtain the Durst malts in 1 pound or 55 pound packages. He can get almost anything else in 10 pounds (I prefer this smaller size for storage). I looked around and he did have English 2-Row Lager Malt. He says this comes from Munton & Fison's. Now the question. How does M&F Lager, compare to Durst Pilsner, D&C Pilsner, etc.? What important differences exist. TIA. > Nathan See if your supplier can get Wyerman malts. The home brew shop I work at recently started selling them and brewers seem to like them. We get their munich and crystal malts in 10lb bags so I assume their other malts are alsoavailable in 10 lb bags. If you need more info feel free to e-mail me directly. I can check and see who distributes these malts. I suggest this because, although I am shure that M&F lager malt is fine for lagers, IMO it is nice to use ingrediance from the same area the style is from. Has anyone had experience with Wyerman malts? I'd love to here from you. I haven't used any yet myself. I brew predominantly ales and although i could use these malts in ales I have not had much time to brew lately with my work and school schedules. home made soda rocks dutch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 09 Apr 1997 01:54:38 PDT From: "MASSIMO FARAGGI" <maxfarag at hotmail.com> Subject: Rochefort 10 recipe request Hi HBDers, I would like to try to clone, or let's say "approximate" Rochefort 10. I am an extract brewer but could try a partial mash. Any help from Hbrewers who tried and/or know well this belgian ale? (Don't hide - I know there are!) I supply a recipe I worked out as a basis for the discussion: Target 1101 OG 11.3% ABV - Make 5 US gallons Malt Extract (I have only light liquid extract) 11 pounds Caramunch OR Caravienne 1 pound Chocolate malt (crushed?) 5 oz. Flaked maize 1 pound Demerara sugar OR Home-made light-caramel sugar OR Cane sugar + caramel 2 pounds Coriander ?? oz. Kettle hops: Styrian Goldings (or Fuggles) Finish hops: Hallertau to a total of 30 IBU Wyeast Belgian Ale II (don't remember the number) OR cultured from a bottle of Rochefort (10,8 or 6, which would be better?) Sources are M. Jackson Beer Companion and expecially P. Seitz report of a visit to Rochefort brewery, found at: http://s-kanslia-3.hut.fi/BeerHunting/Part1.html The inclusion of chocolate malt (too little?) is mine and is based on how I remember the colour and flavour of Roch.10 - if my memory is right, I don't drink it every day! :( Suggestions are welcome: correction of the recipe, clarification of my OR's and ??, tips on techniques, fermentation, temperature etc. Private email or Hbd posts as you prefer. If the beer turns great I'll post to HBD (the results, not the beer!) TIA Massimo Faraggi GENOVA - ITALY maxfarag at hotmail.com - --------------------------------------------------------- Get Your *Web-Based* Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com - --------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Apr 1997 14:34:16 +0300 (IDT) From: Lenny Garfinkel <lenny at inter.net.il> Subject: how to use sodium metabisulfite? The title says it all. What amounts do I use to sterilize a plastic fermentor? Any special instructions? Lenny Garfinkel Leonard Garfinkel, Ph.D. home: Menuha Venahala 16/13 office: Bio-Technology General Rehovot Kiryat Weizmann Israel Rehovot, Israel tel:972-8-9451505 tel:972-8-938-1256 fax:972-8-940-9041 lenny at inter.net.il Return to table of contents