HOMEBREW Digest #2408 Wed 30 April 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@ brew.oeonline.com
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Pressure Cooking First Runnings (XKCHRISTIAN)
  Autolysis/Attenuation ("Nathan L. Kanous II")
  Copper Manifold,yeast ("R. Wayne McCorkle")
  Percentage Open Area in a RIMS False BottomI was wondering what the concensus was on percentage open are in a false bottom for a RIMS system?  I was looking at a stainless steel sheet with 1/16" holes drilled on 3/32" staggered centers (I believe that thisgives me a distance of 1/32" between holes).  Is this sufficient? (gives me a distance of 1/32" between holes).  Is this sufficient?)
  Quick disconnects on ball? or pin? lock (Cory Chadwell)
  Princeton's PALE ALES (Richard Taft)
  Flaked Wheat (Bob Tisdale)
  Re: Maris Otter problems (Pat Lohmann)
  brewing in small batches. (Barry Finley)
  Soak, Oak, Choke, Poke ("David R. Burley")
  Oud Bruin Gone South (Chico Seay)
  drilling mistake (Jeff Sturman)
  nitrogen/co2 (Jeff Sturman)
  Equipment Sources ("Myers, John")
  re:Korny Kegs - foam (Charles Burns)
  How to use ph sticks/sparge water/Marris-Otter & EM (Tim Martin)
  Rogue Shakespeare Stout - dryhopped? (Tom Gaskell)
  Electric Wort Boiler Page ("C.D. Pritchard")
  YeastLabs Retailer ("Val J. Lipscomb")
  CRUD (Scott Dornseif)
  CIP Cleaining ("Lorena Barquin Sanchez")
  Oatmeal Stout?/Barleywine recipe (Sean Mick)
  Ultimate Brewing setup SUMMARY (Jeff Donnelly)
  Starter procedure for lager yeasts? (LINUSNLILA)
  Brown Blah's (Charles Burns)
  Salvaging an Underattenuated Batch? (Richard Stueven)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 18:36:14 -0800 (PST) From: XKCHRISTIAN at ccvax.fullerton.edu Subject: Pressure Cooking First Runnings Hi HBDers, Well I have been away from HBD for quite a while but I have not forgotten my roots ;-). As some of you may remember me. I had a large harvest of Cascade and Perle hops this year and I shared them with many of you. The hop growing went to well and I need to scale it back from 4 mounds to 2 mounds. In pursuit of trying some of your fine homebrew, I would like to make a swop. If you will send me a 6-pak of your fine homebrew, I will send you some rhysomes of your choice either Cascade or Perle. If you are interested in making a swop, pleas contact me by personal email at XKCHRISTIAN at FULLERTON.EDU or by phone at 714 638- 3201. I live in Orange County CA. Keith XKCHRISTIAN at FULLERTON.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 07:03:02 -0400 From: "Nathan L. Kanous II" <nkanous at tir.com> Subject: Autolysis/Attenuation Dave Bradley asks about autolysis in his beers brewed with Wyeast London and Thames Valley yeasts. Dave, I think I have noticed the same problem with these yeasts. I didn't know what to call it, but I guess it does amount to "yeast bite". I couldn't get it out of the pale ales (2) that I made with the Thames Valley, but the one with the London is getting much better with age. I think this may be due to suspended yeast, but don't know. To the collective, will the yeast bite associated with autolysis attenuate with age? If this is just yeast in suspension, would adding finings at bottling time help? Anybody with experience? Second on attenuation. I read what I can and I always notice attenuation figures as they relate to specific beer styles. It is talked about when we look at mash schedules (controlling fermentabilty). It is also listed as a characteristic of yeast strains. My question is this, which is more important for dictating attenuation, mashing schedule or yeast strain? Now, keep in mind that if one intends to make a large malty dopplebock, mashing schedule is going to have a dramatic influence on finishing gravity. But for the run of the mill ale or lager that doesn't require a high final gravity, which is most important, yeast or mash temps? TIA. Nathan in Frankenmuth, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 07:16:00 -0600 (MDT) From: "R. Wayne McCorkle" <wmccorkl at psl.nmsu.edu> Subject: Copper Manifold,yeast I have built myself a copper manifold for use in the old picnic cooler. It seems there is quite a buite burned type of material in the tubes as a result of soldering. Anyone have suggestion as to the best method of cleaning prior to use? Also, I was talking with a friend a few weeks ago and we got on the subject of yeast. Suppose one were to make a batch with dry yeast. Then, suppose that the slurry is saved for culturing. Is this now liquid yeast?!?!? Or do we still consider it a dry yeast strain? Thanks, Wayne Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 08:19:22 -0500 From: chris at megsinet.net (Chris Ragaisis) Subject: Percentage Open Area in a RIMS False BottomI was wondering what the concensus was on percentage open are in a false bottom for a RIMS system? I was looking at a stainless steel sheet with 1/16" holes drilled on 3/32" staggered centers (I believe that this gives me a distance of 1/32" between holes). Is this sufficient? Thanks, Chris Ragaisis Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I was wondering what the concensus was on percentage open are in a false bottom for a RIMS system? I was looking at a stainless steel sheet with 1/16" holes drilled on 3/32" staggered centers (I believe that this gives me a distance of 1/32" between holes). Is this sufficient? Thanks, Chris Ragaisis Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 08:34:05 -0500 From: cory at okway.okstate.edu (Cory Chadwell) Subject: Quick disconnects on ball? or pin? lock Collective, Just a quickie today. I got some cornie's from a buddy that used to keg quite a bit of his own beer. However he no longer had quick disconnects for the cornie's nor could he remember if they were pin or ball lock type. Because of this I can't order what I need from the resources suggested to me by several quality members of the HBD conscience. How can I tell Ball Lock from Pin Lock on my cornie? Private Email is fine. THX, Cory Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 09:45:33 -0400 From: Richard Taft <rtaft at unx.dec.com> Subject: Princeton's PALE ALES I'm pretty amazed also at the quality of guest speakers we get at PALE ALES meetings. Last night's speaker, while interesting, was not as good as some we've had. (Wm. Crisp came all the way from England to explain all about the malting business, for one; and the guy from Stoudts brewery was certainly entertaining!) I'm sure it's a lot of work to find and attract speakers and then to accommodate them before and after the meeting. We owe a lot of gratitude to Kent and the other officers of the club and to Joe (our local homebrew shopkeeper and club elder statesman). (Re: Triumph: I had the Bengal Pale Ale last night. Deliciously hoppy!) -Rick Taft rtaft at unx.dec.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Apr 1997 21:26:31 +0100 From: rtisdale at entomology.msstate.edu (Bob Tisdale) Subject: Flaked Wheat I have brewed many wheat beers and have never used flaked wheat in any of my resipes. I would like some information on flaked wheat please. Thank you, Bob Tisdale Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 97 10:50:07 EDT From: Pat Lohmann <pat at ale.whoi.edu> Subject: Re: Maris Otter problems content-type:text/plain;charset=us-ascii mime-version:1.0 "Michael Dowd" <mikedowd at geocities.com> asks: >Does anyone else out there have any experience with using an EasyMasher >and Marris-Otter malt? I haven't had any problems with sparging Crisp Maris-Otter malt (I use a perforated screen, not EasyMasher), but I have big problems with it balling up when adding it to the mash water. I use a fixed MaltMill to crush. I've never had these problems with Briess, Schreier, M&F, HB, Ireks, or DWC. My brother using quite different procedures from mine (he adds water to the malt, I add malt to the water) reports the same problems. I also get a slightly higher extraction efficiency than with these other malts. Maybe Crisp Maris Otter produces more flour when crushed? I wonder if all Maris Otter behaves like this or only that from Crisp? In spite of the problems (it just takes longer), I find Crisp MO an excellent malt and will continue to use it. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:47:15 -0400 (EDT) From: Barry Finley <bfinley at arches.uga.edu> Subject: brewing in small batches. I am curious to know if anyone brews in 1 to 2 gal batches. I have found that when I brew 5 gallon batches, it takes me forever to drink it up. Not many people I know like the beer that I brew (not that its bad, but they only like budmilloors style beer). It would be easier for me to brew in 1 to 2 gallon batches, that way I could brew more often. I also have acquired a small fridge that can hold two 1 gallon glass jugs so that I can try my hand a brewing a lager. If anyone has reciepies that they would be willing to share with me, it would be very much appreciated. ********************** Barry C. Finley Science Education University of Georgia ********************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:27:15 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Soak, Oak, Choke, Poke Brewsters: Scott Dornsett says: >I covered the dry burned on crud with common 3% Hydrogen peroxide soln, >After soaking for about an hour, I wiped all of the H2O2 off, leaving only >The soln that soaked into the crud. Then I poured straight household >Bleach, fully covering the affected area, (sounds like a rash). Within 20 >Mins the crud was almost completely gone. COOL. Actually I doubt the peroxide hurt, but it didn't do much. Bleach is made by electrolysing brine and has chlorine in a lye solution (sodium hypochlorite plus lye). The caustic portion of the bleach was the agent which removed the crud, since burned organic matter has lots of carboxylic acid ends hanging around and they get solubilized as the sodium salt. Any fatty esters (oils, grease) make soap. Any oxidation from the chlorine could be solubilized by the caustic. I believe Oven-Off is a combo of caustic soda ( lye or chemically sodium hydroxide) and sodium carbonate. I clean my stove top with this if I have a real bunch of crud ( which I rarely do anymore). This is the reason I wash my plastic fermenters and glassware with straight bleach first to remove any organics, dilute it with hot water, then rinse three times with hot, boiled water. Always have safety glasses and gloves on even with Oven-Off. Caustic is MUCH worse than acid in your eyes as it destroys tissue by lifting layers of tissue and penetrates. - --------------------------------------------------- Graham did a splendid job on the oak casks information in past centuries in Merry Olde. Thanks. Steeping the oak staves to remove the tannin ( and presumably the vanillin and other flavors) seems to answer to some extent whether or not the british ales had an oakey taste. Apparently not. I still find it hard to believe that unlined casks could be shipped such long distances without spoiling the beer. Not withstanding the high hop rates in the Bitters sent to India. Although the comment about absorbing tannin certainly supports the idea that the casks were unlined, at least for things like the high alcohol Imperial Stouts sent to Russia. American Red oak is porous and is said to taste like cat pee. American White oak better flavored and is much harder, less porous and is the variety used in making barrels for the whiskey trade. Recent advances(?) in treating American white oak like the French do their oak has produced promising results in wine casks. - ------------------------------------------------- Dave Whitman in describing his agar yeast medium says: 10% dry malt extract 2% agar (cheap food grade from a chinese grocery store) 0.25% diammonium phosphate ("yeast energizer" from brew shop) 0.25% yeast extract ("Marmite" toast spread from English specialty shop) I always KNEW there was a good use for Marmite. I certainly wouldn't spread it on MY toast! I believe it is right up there with cod liver oil as a horrible tasting health food used during the Great wars. Brits and Ozzies who grew up on it apparently like it. - ----------------------------------------------- George DePiro in commenting on a hold at 145F says: > significant starch conversion does occur at 130-135F (~56C). He is > now planning on holding the main mash at 145F (62.7C), because he > believes this temp to be "pretty harmless." > At 145F, you'll get even faster beta-amylase activity. No disagreement there. Just not much alpha amylase So if no low molecular starches, no result of beta activity. Ergo no sugars. > You'll convert most of the starch into fermentables in your main mash. How? > You > Will not release all that much unconverted starch in the decoction > Step, Why not? All of the starch in the decocted portion should be released. I'm sure you know this George. There are three steps to producing sugar from starch. The first step is gelatinization ( at T>149F for barley) the second is solubilization (alpha amylase activity) and the third is saccharification ( beta amylase activity). Some activity will occur below 145F, especially with malt that has been highly modified, since it has some starch that has been modified by several days at malting temperatures, but it really needs to be a higher temperature to get gelatinization so the alpha can do its job of starch solubilization. I believe the reason the classical saccharification range is 149F to 158F has to do the lower temperature being the gelatinization temperature of the barley starch. Experiments have been done on holding at lower temperatures for several days and if I recall correctly as much as 60% of the starch is converted at lower temperatures - but not all of it. Since this was in M&BS, I assume it was a highly converted malt that was used. I don't know what would happen with a classical lager malt. > If you are really paranoid > About degrading proteins and starches without wanting to, rest the > Main mash at ~100F (39C). The reason for choosing 145F was to degrade the proteinase proteins ( both protease and peptidases), then allow the main mash to cool off a little to minimize any amylase activity. > Get the mash to the next step (if it's to far above 100F, you'd need a > ridiculously large decoct to hit it). Which is of course why the hold is at 140-145F, so a reasonable sized decoct can be used and hit 158F immediately, with no heatup to produce dextrins. Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 97 11:40:24 CDT From: cseay at TUblue.pa.utulsa.edu (Chico Seay) Subject: Oud Bruin Gone South Help. My beer is RUINED, but i'm still not giving up. Last night I made an extract Oud Bruin batch. I did everything to this beer including calling its mother ugly, but at the end of the boil I treated it with all the delicacy of a normal beer (to prevent postboil runaway infection). So what's it do to me? Infects this morning. White flecks on top of the krausen, and a filmy stunkque on the edge of the carboy at krausen level. But I'm not going to give up yet. When in doubt, change styles is what I say. So my question is: what can I do to this beer to lambicize it, if possible? I've read on the timing of adding B. lambicus and B. Brucelocis is is and so on, but the beer is already out of the starting gate. Any advice? I am planning on racking it to 12 lbs of raspberries in a week or so now. I am also planning on letting this stuff ferment for 4-6 months now as well. Is there anything else I can do to this stuff to round out a sour profile?? Is my ruined beer ruined?? Here's the 'recipe': 3 six packs of a previously infected light beer (another story) 5 lbs Breiss Amber Malt extract, accidently soured in the bucket last summer, and then frozen for just such an occasion 2 lbs 2-row malt, crushed, mashed, mashed out and added one handful of crushed grain, and kept at 120 deg. for 2 days, and then sparged into wort (wanted 130 deg. but that's what I got) 1 lb. Dried Wheat Malt Extract (the only normal thing in this mess) 1 1/2 oz hops (pretty stale) from the herb shop Pitched onto Wyeast Belgian ale 1312 (?) yeast from an earlier batch (this is probably where I picked up the current infection, as the infection took on so quickly). Boiled 2 1/2 hours. Chilled in immersion chiller. Called it all sorts of names. (didn't wear plaid, though. Maybe I should have). Chico the Cereal Beer Abuser Tulsa, OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:35:15 -0700 From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Sturman) Subject: drilling mistake A homebrew compadre and I recently made some major improvements to my keg fridge. What should have taken a hour at most ended up being a 3.5 hour pita. When we drilled through the side of the refrigerator the 7/8" hole saw got hold of some wires which wrapped around the hole saw and, well you get the idea. We dismantled the entire thing, tracing down where the wires came from and went to. We got everything rewired and now my fridge has two chrome faucets on the side of it with an ss drip tray underneath. Very cool! Be careful when you drill through the side of your refrigerator. I drilled through the side that houses the temperature control module, which was probably not real smart. When we tore the thing apart I realized there were lots of wires on that side, but no wires on the other side. Hopefully this will help somebody avoid the same pinhead mistake. jeff casper, wy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 11:35:30 -0700 From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Sturman) Subject: nitrogen/co2 One of my customers is hell bent on using nitrogen to serve his homebrew. He wants to know if he can carbonate the beer with straight co2 and then serve the beer with straight nitrogen. Mainly because pure nitrogen is considerabely cheaper than a mix of nitrogen/co2. Will this work? I told him the reason for the mix probably has something to do with keeping the beer carbonated. Pure nitrogen pressure on the keg probably wouldn't do this. Did I lie to him? Help, anyone? TIA jeff casper, wy Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 13:19:24 -0400 From: "Myers, John" <JMyers at polkaudio.com> Subject: Equipment Sources Greetings to the collective. Here's a couple of potential sources for homebrew equipment: Consolidated Plastics Company, Inc. 8181 Darrow Road Twinsburg Ohio 44087 vox 216.425.3900 fax 216.425.3333 (note new area code 330 effective 9/1/97) United States Plastic Corp. 1390 Neubrecht Road Lima Ohio 45801 vox 800.537.9724 fax 419.228.5034 Both companies have gobs of food-grade stuff in plastic and stainless steel. They also have hand, mag-drive and peristaltic pumps, as well as high-temp silicone tubing. Bulk discounts, too, so I thought it might be worth the while of brew clubs to check them out and get a big order together. Standard disclaimer applies, "I have no affiliation BLAH..." If this has been presented in the past, forgive the waste of bandwidth. Ooonngawa, john *********************************************************************** * John Myers Polk Audio Inc. * * Mechanical and Industrial Design Manager "The Speaker Specialists"* *********************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:08:07 -0700 From: Charles Burns <cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us> Subject: re:Korny Kegs - foam Doublas Moyer asks about foaming/serving from kegs in hbd #2407. The 8 psi might be a little high, but you do have 5' of hose, so maybe not. My *guess* is that the foaming problem is coming from whatever transition is occuring inside the shank. My setup is an upright with 5 kegs and the co2 tank inside the fridge (18 cuft). The maximum length of hose is 30" from "OUT" (on the keg) to the shank. I use 3/16 tubing same as you, but on the other end of the my shanks are faucets, 4 of them. I always get a little burst of foam from the C02 that appears to have come out of solution inside the hoses. I serve at 4-6 psi. Temp is usually 40-44F. Overcarbonation is unlikely the problem, as you point out, it gets better the more you serve. My force carbonation procedure: a. Keg the beer. b. Pressurize to 25-30psi. c. Disconnect and Chill keg 24 hours at 33-34F d. Re-connect at 25-30psi. e. Shake it for 5 minutes (no more no less). I roll it on the floor back and forth across the edge of a rug (bump, roll, bump, roll...) always keeping the C02 IN connector submerged so I can hear the gas going into the tank. Eventually, towards the end of the 5 minutes, the gurgling sound gets fainter and fainter until it nearly stops completely. f. Disconnect and Chill at 33F for 24 more hours (still at 25-30psi). g. Reduce pressure to 4-6 psi, fill an 8 oz glass and throw it away (sediment). Serve. Never fails. Charley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:17:23 -0400 From: Tim Martin <SOUTHWESTERN.SCC#u#MAIL.TimM at southwest.cc.nc.us> Subject: How to use ph sticks/sparge water/Marris-Otter & EM Hey Neighbors, Back in December I asked you all to help me improve my efficiency and quite a few responded that I should acidify my sparge water, so that's what I did this brew season. I bummed some phosphoric acid from the local university chem. dept. and added it to my filtered sparge water. Each time I brought the water to 70df and added the acid with an eye dropper and then checked with colorPHast brand indicator sticks until I achieved my target. My technique is to place the ph stick into the water for about 3 seconds, sling off excess water and wait about 15 seconds before I take my reading. My problem is I have no formal background in this and it appears to me that the stick keeps changing colors with time so I'm really not sure if I'm taking an accurate reading or not. Question at last! How long should I wait before I take my reading? By the way my efficiency increased to 75% but I'm not sure why because I changed so many things. ************************* In #2399 Al K. comments on another question I had back in December on acidifying sparge water and he says "An option is to acidify your sparge water only when you need to...i.e. only at the end of the sparge." I wish I had known this at the beginning of the brew season because I have been adding acid to all my sparge water but at least I will know for next season. Thanks Al... I tend to think many of us may be acidifying all our sparge water because no one mentioned this to me nor have I read it before, on the other hand maybe everyone else knew better. ************************* Michael Dowd recently ask how to prevent his EM from sticking using Marris-Otter. My last two batches were MO and I use a homemade EM and my screen is noticeably finer. I think the trick is to add some sparge water to float the grains before you ever touch the drain valve to recirculate. If you open the valve first it will stick like snot on a door knob. I appreciate all the kind help you may give. Tim Martin Cullowhee, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:05:28 -0400 (EDT) From: gaskell at borg.com (Tom Gaskell) Subject: Rogue Shakespeare Stout - dryhopped? Hi all, Just a quick question regarding a beer that I had a few months back, and have read reviews which differ greatly from my experience. The beer in question is Rogue's Shakespeare Stout which the Blue Tusk in Syracuse (disclaimer, yadda, yadda) had on draft before the holidays. The brew was cask conditioned and had a VERY pronounced dry hopped aroma and flavor - I fell in love with this beer. Recently, I have read two reviews of this beer and seen no mention of the wonderful hop nose in this heavenly nectar. Is the cask ale dry hopped while the bottled version is not? Is the effect I tasted caused by the long shipping time from the west coast to the frozen Northeast? Now for you judges who wish to pick up HBD bonus points - would a heavily dryhopped dry stout get clobbered in competition? TIA. Cheers, Tom Gaskell Clayville, NY, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 16:25:23 +0700 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at mail.chattanooga.net> Subject: Electric Wort Boiler Page Just post a web page detailing a new electric wort boiler. It's similiar to Ken Schwartz's (THANKS Ken!) with the addition of a stirrer and a manifold. It's accessible via the URL in the sig. line below. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://caladan.chattanooga.net/~cdp/index.html Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:37:44 -0500 (CDT) From: "Val J. Lipscomb" <valjay at NetXpress.com> Subject: YeastLabs Retailer Greetings Brewpersons, I am looking for a supplier of YeastLabs products, preferably in the Southwest or South of the USA. Any help would be appreciated,since the local suppliers don't carry it. Private e-mail is okay or post it for all us Texans. TIA, Val Lipscomb-brewing in San Antonio Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 15:41:00 -0500 From: Scott Dornseif <roundboy at wwa.com> Subject: CRUD Dave Burlesque says Brewsters: Scott Dornsett says: >I covered the dry burned on crud with common 3% Hydrogen peroxide soln, >After soaking for about an hour, I wiped all of the H2O2 off, leaving only >The soln that soaked into the crud. Then I poured straight household >Bleach, fully covering the affected area, (sounds like a rash). Within 20 >Mins the crud was almost completely gone. COOL. Actually I doubt the peroxide hurt, but it didn't do much. Bleach is made by electrolysing (on and on)... Actually Don, Ive soaked that crud with bleach before and it did nothing. According to many posts I've seen here and many other places nobody has found an easy, effective means of removing that cooked on crud, even with Easy off. This combination of the peroxide and bleach worked quickly and easily where nothing else did. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. I don't know what your experiences are Darren, but then again I'm not going to tell you about them either. Scot DornseIF Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 19:58:03 -0400 From: "Lorena Barquin Sanchez" <mbarquin at telcel.net.ve> Subject: CIP Cleaining This question is similar to that of how to clean a Sankey keg posted today April 29th. I have read that commercial breweries do their cleaning and sanitizing using a procedure called CIP (Clean In Place). Could anyone explain to me what the procedure is and could it be used in a Rims instalation? Thanks Lorenzo Barquin Venezuela Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 17:26:28 -0800 From: homebrew at dcn.davis.ca.us (Sean Mick) Subject: Oatmeal Stout?/Barleywine recipe Hello intrepid brewers! I was hoping someone out there could help me with the malt/adjunct percentages for an oatmeal stout. I have recently moved from Eugene, Oregon, where they make an excellent example at the Fields brewpub. I've gathered from Michael Lewis' _Stout_ book and Michael Jackson's various tomes that most "classic" commercial examples don't exceed 5% oats. If anyone out there can share a contrary view or has a recipe similar to Field's Oatmeal Stout (or even Black Butte Porter from Deschutes Brewery), please don't hesitate to share! (Private email would be dandy, don't know the interest level for this item). Also, there was a recent post concerning Barleywine and 1056 yeast. I've had good luck with both items and would like to share my recipe: 6.6# Munton's extra Light extract 12# 2-row 0.75# DWC Biscuit malt (Briess Special Roast works well, too) 1# Briess crystal 20L 2 oz. Eroica hops (13.9%) 60 minute boil 1/2 oz. Tettnanger- 10 minutes 1/2 oz. Tettnanger- 1 minute 1 oz. Fuggles- steep 10 minutes while cooling OG: ~1.095-1.100 FG:~1.024-1.028 pitch with 1056 quart starter. yield: 4.5 gallons I call it "Frankenstein Barleywine" because I used what I had left in my freezer at home for finishing hops. Kind of a monster built from spare parts. But very nice in the glass after 3-6 months maturation. Cheers and TIA for the Stout recipe(s). Sean Mick Mick's Homebrew Supplies http://www.dcn.davis.ca.us/~homebrew Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 12:21:56 -0400 From: Jeff Donnelly <jeffd at att.com> Subject: Ultimate Brewing setup SUMMARY Thanks for all the great responses to my request for the ultimate brewing setup. For those who missed the thread, I asked for what you would buy for an all grain setup if you could start from scratch. Perhaps it's the make up of our group but few came back with expensive suggestions. A couple of fellows pointed me to a 3 tier all SS 15 gal setup for $1300. I drooled when I saw it but I have to say that it would cost me 2 times that in flowers for my wife! On to the recommendations: ALL suggested I get a chiller with the slight preference for counter flow. Most liked their current mashing setup of coolers with false bottom or slotted pipes. This surprised me since I thought lots of folks would like to mash in a cooking pot for temp control. Most suggested I get a couple more carboys. You can't have enough of them. Several folks suggested that I go for a 15gal brew pot instead of a 10gal brew pot in case I ever decide to brew 10gal batches. This seems like the best cost saving idea for me. The recent BT article on brewing different beers from one batch seems like a neat idea to make it easier to brew less often and have the same amount of beer. Of course I'll need those extra carboys. 2 suggestions for type are converted kegs (my local brew shop will do one for $70) and the purchase of a 15gal Vollrath kettle which would probably heat more evenly but cost more. Several of you suggested a mill (both types) mostly as a cost savings (buy whole bags). Several also suggested a second pot of any type for the mash water and a simple pot/bucket to hold the water with valve to drain into the mash vessel. I had a clever suggestion for safely using my current stove top with a canning kit but most suggested a medium BTU propane cooker (30k BTU) Complete summary is available from me by email request. Thanks again and I'm really looking forward to my first all grain batch! jeff mailto:jeffd at att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 20:54:46 -0400 (EDT) From: LINUSNLILA at aol.com Subject: Starter procedure for lager yeasts? I am in the middle of fermenting a Vienna lager, in which I used a wyeast Bavarian lager yeast. I tried to build up a good starter by pitching the yeast after it had formed a bulge in the package, into a medium OG starter, and leaving it at room temperature. The yeast made a good initial effort, but settled out to the bottom of the quart bottle by the next morning. I drained off the wort and replaced it with a new one. The yeast never really got going, again. When I finally brewed, I only had about 2 oz of yeast slurry to pitch. It took forever to get going, but it is finally fermenting pretty strong at 45 F. My question is, do lager yeast starters have to be made at the same temperature you are going to ferment at? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 97 19:24 PDT From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns) Subject: Brown Blah's Don't rest your pale ale malt at 135F. I did it on what I thought was going to be a fantastic American Brown. I did the decoction thing while 2/3 rested at 135F-130F for about 30 minutes. Result: Great head formation, Great head retention, no body (very little body), lots of alcohol (buzzing as I write), good flavor, nice aftertaste, just not enough body. Can't taste **any** sweetness, very dry brown. Not what I was after. No more decocting pale ale for me, I give up. I have now decocted 5 batches. The first 4 Ihave tasted and had to toss one of them out completely it was so bad. The last is the porter i made 2 days ago and I fear for it. What if I made another batch of porter, and mashed it single infusion at about 160F? Could I combine it with the other batch and end up with a beer with some body? Charley (lamenting decoction failures, but buzzed anyway) in N. Cal. Charley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 1997 18:38:38 -1000 From: Richard Stueven <gak at aloha.net> Subject: Salvaging an Underattenuated Batch? Aloha kakou! Thanks to a cold stretch of weather here (cold? in Hawaii? you bet) my #108 ESB didn't attenuate nearly as far as I expected it to: OG 1.050, FG 1.020. Now it's carbonated and in the keg, and I guess it tastes OK, but it's not up to my usual exacting standards. While it has a good hop flavor (thanks in part to a premature Cascade dry-hopping), its way-too-sweet finish makes for a very poorly-balanced beer. I shoulda noticed the lack of attenuation when I racked the beer. I shoulda roused the yeast somewhere along the way. I shoulda I shoulda I shoulda. But it's probably too late for this batch. Or is it? What does the conventional wisdom say about getting a fresh batch of yeast going and pitching it into this not-really- finished beer? Overpitching would be a must, since aeration is a bad idea this late in the game, but is there any reason this wouldn't knock off another ten SG points? Or should I just choke this one down and pay more attention next time? have fun gak - -- Richard Stueven gak at beerismylife.com http://www.aloha.net/~gak The Moloka`i Brewing Company http://molokaibrewing.com Beer Is My Life! http://beerismylife.com Breweries On The Web http://www.aloha.net/~gak/beer/brewwww.htm Return to table of contents