---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Brewpubs/Micros in Minneapolis ("Bruce Gill")
  Grand Cru: Where to Classify for Competition? ("Applied Computer Resources")
  Re: canning unfermented wort (Dave Williams)
  slow starting wyeast #2112 ("John Watts")
  Wyeast Swedish Porter attenuation (Larry Johnson)
  Clear German Wheat Beers / Hop Growing / Double Diamond Recipe (David C. Harsh)
  Growing Hops (THaby)
  A brewing story (Spencer W Thomas)
  Re: Polyclar (Joe Rolfe)
  Beer in 2 Li'er, Hop tea (PAUL W HAAF JR)
  Coolers (Mark Rancourt)
  specific gravity at end of mash (Wes Clement)
  Call for Entries -- The Fourth Annual BUZZ Off! (Robert.MATTIE)
  Re:Chico Micro Brewery Fest (JCMaretti)
  New Homebrew Club forming in Chico, California (JCMaretti)
  Advice needed for IPA brewing (Dave Riedel)
  Removing N2 inserts (Greg.A.Kudlac)
  Canning Wort (Part 2) (SSLOFL)
  Canning Wort (Part 1) (SSLOFL)
  recirculation/flash ferment/starch/carbonation (korz)
  sparge time/stuck ferment/1st round winners/summer/honey/Weizens (korz)


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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 97 11:28:18 UT
From: "Bruce Gill" <b2g at msn.com>
Subject: Brewpubs/Micros in Minneapolis

I'll be in the Twin Cities area (St. Louis Park) in a coupla weeks on 
business.  It would be nice to explore some new brewpubs while I'm there -- or 
be on the look-out for outstanding local/regional microbrews when dining in a 
non-brewing establishment.  Would appreciate any recommendations and advice 
from our brothers/sisters from the GFN (Great Frozen North) chapter of the 
HBD.

Happy Brewing
Bruce

Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 07:38:00 -0400
From: "Applied Computer Resources" <jrmeans at nb.net>
Subject: Grand Cru: Where to Classify for Competition?

Made a tasty Grand Cru not long ago...
Nice coriander flavor...rich and creamy...
Want to enter it in a competition...
Not sure where to classify it, Belgian Pale or Belgian Strong
(O.G.- 1.070, F.G.- 1.016)
I've asked the organizers...they're thinking about it...
Consulting their Grand Poobah of Judges...
What do you folks think?  Thanks for your input.

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 07:40:32 -0400
From: rdavis at gator.net (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: canning unfermented wort

In HBD 2433, Brad Manbeck wrote:

>I am interested in canning a mini batch (3 gals) of unfermented wort 
>for storage and then later, use as a yeast starter. I am trying to gather 
>information on how other HBDers have done this in the past. Any 
>procedural hints or other tips would be greatly appreciated. Private 
>emails are welcomed.

I have canned wort for use in yeast starters and it works very well.  I use
1 qt. Ball or Kerr canning jars with the self sealing lids.  You can pick
them up at most grocery stores.   The Procedure is as follows:

First, determine the gravity that you want your wort to be (most texts that
I have read reccomend 1.020 but I use about 1.030).  Next figure the amount
of extract (or grain) that you need to get the gravity that you want.  Dry
malts usually give about 44 points S.G. / lb./ gal. so if you want 3 gallons
of S.G. 1.020 wort you would need 20/44*3=1.36 lbs. of dry malt.  Malt syrup
usually gives about 38 points S.G. / lb. / gal.  These numbers can vary
somewhat from one extract to another, but you can figure it using an extract
that you have used before if you really want to be exact.  I don't think
it's that important for a starter.  

I have a 4 gal. brewpot that I boil the wort in and an 8 gal. enamel brewpot
that works nicely for canning ( that is really what it was made for).  You
will obviously have to adapt the procedure to work with the equipment that
you have.  I  pre-heat and sanitize my canning jars by heating them to
boiling in the 8 gal. brewpot.  12 jars fit just right.  The water should
just cover (and fill) the jars.  you don't need to boil the lids with the
jars.   

While the jars are being heated / sanitized,  boil the  wort, preferably the
entire volume.   Hops are optional in a starter wort, but I use them.  Once
the wort and the jars are ready, remove the jars from the water with a
kitchen implement of your choice (you can also buy a pair of tongs for this)
and dump out 12 quarts of the boiled water to make room for the jars full of
wort.  Pour 1 qt. of wort into each jar with a pyrex measuring cup and place
the lids and rings on the jars.  Tighten the rings down snug and return the
jars to the hot water in the canning pot. 

Heat the pot to boiling again and boil for at least 15 minutes.  Then turn
off the heat and allow the entire thing to cool.  You will notice that the
wort in the jars continues to boil after the water in the pot stops boiling.
this is because a partial vacuum forms in the headspace of the jars as they
cool and some steam condenses.  this vacuum is what seals the lids to the jars.

Once the jars are cool, find a dark place to store them (like the box that
the jars came in).  I have not refrigerated mine, and have not had any
problems.  When I'm ready to make a starter, I sanitize a Carlo Rossi 3
litre wine jug and pour in  the contents of my smack pack and  2 qts. of
wort (for a 10 gallon batch).  I use the Carlo Rossi jugs because the mouth
fits the same stopper as a carboy. 

 Canning my starter wort has really taken the hassle out of using liquid
yeast cultures.  I have not had a bad fermentation (slow start or infection)
since I started using the procedure described above.


Dave Williams
Gainesville Florida
rdavis at gator.net


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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 03:24:56 -0500
From: "John Watts" <watts at top.net>
Subject: slow starting wyeast #2112

Greetings to the great beer brain!

One batch back, I decided at the last minute to try and wash/reuse my 
yeast.  I washed it twice and put it in the fridge.  I pulled it out 
last saturday, let it warm up for half a day and pitched it to a 4 
cup starter.  After a day, the starter was going good, and I pitched 
it to a 5 gallon lemon wheat.  There it sat with no activity until 
this morning.  Now it seems to be rolling along fine.  Is this 
normal, or do I need to work on my aeration technique?  The first run 
with the yeast it took off like crazy in less than 8 hours using a 2 
cup starter.

Rgds
John Watts
watts at top.net


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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 09:41:15 -0400
From: Larry Johnson <maltster at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Wyeast Swedish Porter attenuation

In HBD #2433, Brian Kuhl relates poor attenuation (50%) compared to the
published specs on Wyeast's Swedish Porter (69%-73%).  Since this yeast was
added to the Wyeast line, this is the most common comment I've seen on its
behavior.  Has anyone got any firm data on the numbers for this yeast?  Fer
instance:  Is the attenuation really that low, compared to what's
published?  Or does the yeast have some special requirement (temperature
range, nutritional needs, aeration, etc.) that no one seems to know about?

I've not used it, and I'm very leary to at this juncture.  Anyone out there
had better luck with it?  Tell us the secret; inquiring brewers want to know.

Most people stumble over the truth now and then,
but they usually manage to pick themselves up and
go on anyway.   -   W. Churchill

Larry Johnson - Athens, GA - maltster at ix.netcom.com

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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 09:50:22 -0400
From: dharsh at alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Subject: Clear German Wheat Beers / Hop Growing / Double Diamond Recipe

George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) wrote:
>...I have made Dunkel Weizens that are remarkably clear (the roasted
> malt somehow aids in the formation and removal of tannin-protein
> complexes, thus reducing haze).

Here's one additional data point - I had stored parts of two batches in the
same case; one Belgian Strong Ale, one Dunkelweizen.  I hadn't labelled
them because they were easy to tell apart - the Weizen was cloudy, the
Belgian clear.  This case got a lot of stuff stacked on top of it and ended
up sort of out the way for a year or so (I know, that never happens to you)
and when I found it all bottles were crystal clear!

- -------------
On the subject of hops, and trellis height-
        My hop trellis is built from 12 foot 4x4s in a triangular footprint
about 3 feet apart.  The trellis stands around 9+ feet high and I use a
biodegradable twine as a support.  I harvest the cones from the vine while
still in place and leave the vines on the trellis over the winter (looks a
little better).  On the first day that's warm enough, the vine and twine
are cut off and tossed on the compost pile together.  The hops simply grow
up and then coil around in a big mass on top of the trellis and my crop
seems fine (around 6 ounces last year after drying).

- ---------------
David Penn (JPenn11809 at aol.com) asks about a Double Diamond Recipe:

There's a recipe in Wheeler and Protz's recent book titled "Brew Classic
European Beers at Home".  I've never made this recipe, but the ones that I
know of that people have tried have been pretty close to form.

BTW, are you the same Dave Penn that went to UC Chemical Engineering?  If
so, hello, and this will be the only contact with UC that won't interrupt
your dinner and ask for money.

Dave

&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
&                         Dave Harsh                                 &
&            Bloatarian Brewing League - Cincinnati, OH              &
&                                                                    &
&   Free Advice:  Do not refer to your 10th wedding anniversary as   &
&                    the "Pico-System" Anniversary.                  &
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
                               O-



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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 97 8:55:23 CDT
From: THaby at swri.edu
Subject: Growing Hops

Hello hop growers,
 All this talk of growing hops is making me green with envy (ahem). I've 
tried for three years to grow hops here in south Texas with no luck. They
seem to flourish up into about mid June to early July, after that they just
wither on the string and die. The temperature averages into the mid 90's
here about that time of year and my guess is it's too hot for hops. I've
kept them somewhat out of the direct west sun, kept the soil moist, and 
cleared the weeds and grass away from the growing area and still nothing
worked. I'd like to hear from someone who has grown hops in south Texas or in
a hot climate and maybe share some pointers. Thanks.
 
Tim Haby
Rio Medina, TX
 
thaby at swri.edu

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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 10:34:08 -0400
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: A brewing story

A friend told me this was the best brewing story he'd heard recently.
I dunno, maybe you had to be there.

Monday evening...

I go down to the fridge to pull a cold one.  Push on the
tap.... "pfffffffffffft" OH NO! Out of beer!

So, I go to the closet and grab the keg of Saison to put it in
the fridge.  Whoops....  This one's pretty light, too.  Maybe a gallon
left?

TIME TO BREW!  But I don't have time!  We're going on vacation next
Thursday morning.  It sure would be nice to have some beer to take
along.  Darn!

Tuesday morning...

I come into work and start reading my email.  There's a message from a
fellow club member.  He has some yeast that was top-cropped from a
"Bell's Oberon" clone he's just brewed.  Hmm... thinks I.  Quick, fire
off a response: "Jeff, I'll take the yeast, and how about the recipe,
too?"  Then, just to make sure, I get on the phone...

Tuesday evening...

Check the ingredients.  I need 3 lbs of wheat malt and some hops.
Plus I've got to do some errands.  "See you later, dear..."  Hop in
the car.  Finally make it to Jeff's house about 10pm to pick up the
yeast.  After a sample of his "solstice ale" I'm back in the car
heading for home.  (FWIW, I had a bottle of Oberon later in the
evening, and I liked Jeff's better.)

10:30, start grinding grain.

I mash in at just after midnight, pitch the yeast at 4:30, and am
in bed by 5.  I did get a little nap during the boil.  Luckily some
sixth sense woke me just as the boil was finishing.  Missed my
15-minute hop addition, so I just threw them in for the steep.

Wednesday morning...

8:30am -- I go downstairs and look in the fermentation bucket.  5
gallons of beer in a 7 gallon bucket.  The foam is almost to the top!
I LOVE big yeast pitches!


Ain't brewing fun?

=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI        (spencer at umich.edu)

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 10:34:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joe Rolfe <onbc at shore.net>
Subject: Re: Polyclar

 polyclar should be polyclar - check with the vendors for use instructions.
my guess it will be the same (or very similar use rates).

my question is why do you want/need to use the stuff.  if you use it
by "commercial" standards you should also be filtering to some level.
the last time i read the use instructions (a long time ago) it mentioned
use at xx gram/Hectolitre followed by some period (defined by the amount of
suspended solids and how long you want to waste during filtration - basically
the brewmasters call) of cold storage for settling prior to final filtration".

i know silica gel has a similar use instruction. not that i used that
crap either.....;)

i (IMHO) would avoid use of this or silica gel in home brewing, but hey it is 
your beer.  why not stick to "fish guts" or "horse shoes", these are
much less apt to cause use problems. if you really want clear beer there
are some things you can do in the brewhouse to help and buy a small filter.

good luck

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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 10:42:02 EDT
From: haafbrau1 at juno.com (PAUL W HAAF JR)
Subject: Beer in 2 Li'er, Hop tea

As far as oxidation in plastic bottles, I have had some bottles from 4-8
weeks with no noticeable taste difference.  Some of these I still have,
going on 10+ weeks.  I'll post results on these when tried.  There was at
least on brand of commercial beer marketed in 2L plastic.  It was called
"Ramrod", and it was from jolly old England.  It was a dark beer with a
good taste, and relatively inexpensive.  I have no idea what ever became
of it.
  I'm curious as to whether anybody has made a hop tea with the intent of
consumption.  If so, how much hops for a 5-8 oz. cup, or your preferred
brew quantity?  Obviosly it would need to be sweetened.  I would think
this would be  good for insomnia.

Everyone hath a penny for the new Alehouse.- Thomas Fuller
Paul Haaf
haafbrau1 at juno.com

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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 07:50:26 -0700
From: Mark Rancourt <rancourt at nelson.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: Coolers

Ken writes


> I've been trying to find a 10 gallon Gott cooler for the longest time
> with no luck.  Yesterday I saw a 10 gallon Coleman cooler for $35.  It's
> tall like the Gott, but it has a square cross section.  Has anyone
> had any experience using the Coleman coolers as mash tuns?


I use a 72 quart Coleman with a manifold and have no trouble.
With 2 Phils 10" sparge heads mounted in the lid, it enables me to 
mash/lauter/sparge out of the same vessel. SWEET!

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 10:04:42 -0600
From: wesc at mails.imed.com (Wes Clement)
Subject: specific gravity at end of mash

     I have read that the specific gravity at the end of mash (just prior 
     to boil) should be between 1.004 and 1.008 depending on the style.  I 
     was wondering if anyone has a formula/curve for calculating the boil 
     time required to get a desired final gravity. I, therefore, could be 
     more accurate (in relation to the end the boil) on when to add the 
     bittering hops. 
     
     Wes
     

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Date: 05 Jun 97 11:11:27 -0400
From: Robert.MATTIE at sb.com
Subject: Call for Entries -- The Fourth Annual BUZZ Off!

     1997 BUZZ Off - Call for Entries
     June 22, 1997
     

     The Fourth Annual BUZZ Off will be held at Victory Brewing Company in
     Downingtown, PA.   We will be judging all homebrewed Beer, Mead, and
     Cider as defined in the 1997 AHA Style Guidelines. This competition is
     sanctioned by the AHA and the BJCP.  

     The 1997 Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year will be announced at
     the BUZZ Off.  New to the BUZZ Off this year is the Pennsylvania Club
     Challenge -- the highest scoring PA Homebrew Club in the BUZZ Off will
     be awarded the 1997 PA Challenge Cup!

     Information about the BUZZ Off is available at the BUZZ Off Web Page
     at: 

     http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff

     note: the character in front of rpmattie is the tilde character (not
     an underscore, some mailers convert argh!!!!!)

     If you are interested in receiving a competition entry packet via US
     Mail, please contact us via phone, e-mail, or the Web.  The deadline
     for entries is June 15th.

     Judges/Stewards -- If you are interested in Judging or Stewarding, we
     want to hear from you!  

     We have planned a full day of Beer related events culminating with a
     Beer Themed Dinner - check out the Web site for more details!  

     For more information check the Web Page or contact: 

     Robert Mattie, Comp Organizer, (610) 873-6607  rpmattie at voicenet.com
     David Houseman, Judge Co-ord, (610) 458-0743 david.houseman at unisys.com


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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 13:10:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: JCMaretti at aol.com
Subject: Re:Chico Micro Brewery Fest

Saturday June 7th is the 2nd annual Micro Brew Fest in Chico, California.  It
is at the Elks lodge, 1706 Manzanita Ave.  There will be two bands playing
from 3 - 7pm          Tickets are $15.  There will be 15 Micro Breweries and
several local restaraunts serving free samples. Call The Hone Brew Shop (916)
342-3768 or (916) 896-1000 for additional information.

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 13:13:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: JCMaretti at aol.com
Subject: New Homebrew Club forming in Chico, California

There is a new homebrew club forming in Chico, California.  We will be
meeting on Monday June 9, 1997 at Johnson's Country Inn, 3935 Morehead Ave at
7pm.  Bring a sample of your latest brew to share!

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Date: Thu, 05 Jun 1997 11:26:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dave Riedel <RIEDEL at ios.bc.ca>
Subject: Advice needed for IPA brewing

The collective must be busily partially-filling bottles and pressure-cooking
wort... I've never seen the HBD so quiet.  

My next planned brew is an IPA.  I thought I might reach out for some opinions
on brewing this bold style.  I'm interested in keeping the colour on the light
side, and I want a good malt base to stand up to the hopping.  What sort of 
crystal should I use (i.e. lovibond) and how much?  Will the pale ale base malt
(Hugh Baird) provide the needed foundation with very little else needed?  What 
would be recommended for mash schedule?  Is dry or sweet preferred?  The yeast 
will be 1056. Lastly, hops - I have Cascade, Centennial, German NB, KG, Liberty 
and Fuggle.  Any creative suggestions on combinations?  I'm looking for a 
distinct profile from biterness through to aroma.

Open-forum on IPA!  Send favourite recipes, techniques, experiences...whatever.

Dave Riedel
Victoria, BC

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 14:59:00 -0500
From: Greg.A.Kudlac at mcdermott.com
Subject: Removing N2 inserts

     Greetings, collective!
     
     I also posted this question to the Brewery BBoard:
     
     Has anyone come up with a reasonably easy method of removing the 
     "draught flow" inserts from Guiness, Boddingtons and Murphys bottles?
     
     I love the shape of them and would like to put my own brew in but 
     can't come up with a good way to remove the inserts.
     
     Greg
     
     "Beer -- it does a body better"

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 14:53:51 -0500
From: SSLOFL at monsanto.com
Subject: Canning Wort (Part 2)


   (continued....)


   Once the wort has boiled for 45 - 60 min., it is time to fill the jars
   and process.  By this time, the
   processing bath should be at or near boiling.  Turn off the heat to the
   wort, and remove the hops
   if you used a mesh bag (as I usually do when I use hops).  Ladle the hot
   wort into a jar 1/2 to 3/4
   of an inch from the top, set on a lid, and screw the jar ring down SNUG.
    Do not tighten as hard
   as you can, but do not leave loose.  As a general rule, I usually
   tighten as far as I can with just
   my thumb and index finger.  Keep in mind that, as the metal rings and
   lids heat up, they will
   expand to let water vapor escape - but must be snug so that the wort
   does not boil out or
   splashing water from the bath does not get in.  Place the jar with a
   snug lid into the processing
   bath.  Repeat until all jars are filled.  If you have more jars than you
   can fit into your processing
   bath, set them aside wrapped in a towel to hold in as much heat as
   possible - they will have to
   wait their turn.    While filling the jars, try to avoid trub the best
   that you can - but don't worry too
   much about it.  Again, you can later decant your starter before using if
   it bothers you.  Process
   jars in the boiling water bath for 45 min., then remove and set aside to
   cool and seal on their
   own.  If you had too many jars and had to set some aside, it is now
   their turn to be processed.  I
   recommend that you re-snug each jar after processing if needed, being
   careful not to get burned.
   Allow processed jars to cool overnight, then check to see that all have
   sealed.  Those that have
   not sealed will need to be used soon or discarded.  I can't remember
   having any jars not seal by
   this method, but it is always possible to come across a bad lid.

        Some of you deep thinkers may be wondering if it is possible to
   short-cut the processing
   step.  Why not quickly pour the hot wort into pre-heated jars, snug down
   lids, and let them seal?
   I have thought about this, and I do know some people that do this when
   canning in general and
   have success. There are some problems with this, especially for those
   just getting started.  I like
   to process them to be sure that the jars, lids, and wort are sanitary,
   and that there is enough of a
   temperature difference to get the jars to seal.  If you try the shortcut
   method, there is a possibility
   of contamination while transferring by contacting the ladle, the air, ,
   the jar, the lid, etc.  Another
   concern is the loss of heat while transferring - the wort and jars may
   have cooled significantly
   while filling, and lessen the seal.  Processing in the water bath helps
   to minimize chances of
   contamination while transferring, and sanitizes the jars and lids more
   thoroughly.  Also, it reheats
   the jars, lids, and rings to about the same temperature as the boiling
   water bath, which improves
   the seal.  I highly recommend the processing bath to those who are new
   at canning, or want to
   get the highest percentage of jars to seal.  If you are experienced and
   want to try the shortcut
   method, just be sure to think things through ahead of time so that you
   can fill the jars and tighten
   them as fast as possible, therefore minimizing heat loss.   Also, you
   will have to be sure the jars
   and lids are well sanitized before filling, and be very careful to avoid
   contamination.

        The next day, all that is left to do is check that each jar has
   sealed, label them, and date
   them.  Again, any jars that have not sealed will need to be
   refridgerated and/or used quickly or
   discarded.  After some time, any jars that un-seal must be discarded, it
   is an indicator that a
   contaminant has probably taken over.  Personally, I have never had this
   happen with anything I
   have canned - but I know people that have.  I probably shouldn't speak
   too soon, it can happen
   to anyone - experienced or not!

        In conclusion. I hope that all of this helps.  For those new to
   canning, I hope I haven't
   overwhelmed anyone or scared anyone off.  I recommend that you read over
   this and think
   things through carefully before trying it for the first time, just to
   make it go smoother.  It is
   perfectly safe, fun, convenient, and gets much easier after the first
   one or two batches.

        I love opening a jar to make a starter, and hearing the sound of
   the air rushing in as the
   vacuum seal is broken.  When you hear this, smile - you did a good job!


   Shane Lofland

   sslofl at ccmail.monsanto.com

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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 14:53:50 -0500
From: SSLOFL at monsanto.com
Subject: Canning Wort (Part 1)


        Hello homebrewers!  Here is the article I promised on canning wort
   for yeast culturing.  I am sending it in two parts since it is larger
   that the 8K allowed.  Any questions, comments, suggestions, etc. can be
   sent by private e-mail or posted if others can learn as well.  I wrote
   it in Windows Write, and copied and pasted it order to send.  Sorry if
   the lines aren't correct - the software isn't all that compatable.  If
   you want me to send the origional windows file for printing or easier
   reading, just e-mail me and I will attach it to a reply.  Enjoy!

   ---------------------------------------------------------------------
                        Canned Wort for Yeast Culturing
                                by Shane Lofland
                                     6/4/97

        Canning a dozen or so jars of unfermented beer wort for yeast
   culturing is time well
   spent.  I have been a yeast rancher for about a year and a half, and
   currently keep 8 strains of
   yeast on slants.   About three or four days before I brew a batch, I
   simply open up a jar of canned
   wort, and prepare a yeast starter from whatever strain of yeast I need.
   Every six months, I re-
   culture any slants that have not been used to keep them active and
   fresh, so having a supply of
   canned wort makes this task a snap.  So, if you come across a source of
   yeast and would like to
   culture it, need an active starter in a few days to brew, need to renew
   stored slants, want to
   experiment, like to cut down the number of trips to the supply store,
   and many other reasons, a
   supply of canned, unfermented beer wort is great to have on hand and
   simple to make.  I wrote
   this article as a guide for someone with little or no experience in
   canning, to help them get
   started.  For those with canning experience, this should be a good
   review as to how to apply your
   skills to enhance your brewing hobby.  Also, please feel free to
   distribute this document to a
   brew-pal or anyone else that may need it.

        You are going to need malt extract, hops (optional), a one or two
   cup glass or metal ladle
   with a handle (I use a 2 cup pyrex), canning jars, jar rings, lids,
   tongs and/or several hot pads,
   and two kettles as a minimum.  If you are not familiar with canning
   supplies and how to use
   them, talk to a friend or family member that cans, a salesperson at your
   local grocery store or
   hardware store, or drop me an e-mail.  The size of the jars that you use
   is up to you, I have used
   pint and quart jars in the past.  I have read from several sources that,
   for 5 gallon batches,  pint
   starters (or larger) are recommended for ales, and quart starters (or
   larger) are recommended for
   lagers.  I now use only quart jars, so that the starters can be used for
   either ales or lagers.  It
   doesn't matter if you use regular or wide mouth jars, just be sure to
   get the right lids to fit.  One
   kettle will be needed to boil the wort as usual, and the other one is
   used as a boiling water bath
   to process the jars.   My kettles are different sizes, and I use the
   smaller one (approx. 5 gallon
   size) to boil the wort, and the larger one (approx. 8 gal. size) to
   condition the jars.  This part is
   totally up to you, but think ahead!  I use the large kettle to process
   the jars because it has a
   larger base, so it can hold more jars.  I typically make 3.5 gallon
   batches for wort starters.
   Therefore, you will need to figure the amount of  liquid or dry malt
   extract that you need for the
   volume that you decide to prepare, shooting for a specific gravity of
   about 1.035 - 1.040.  This
   volume fits nicely in my 5 gallon boiler, giving me time to watch for
   boil-overs, and gives quite a
   few jars of starter.  A pair of tongs to handle hot jars is recommended,
   but I have gotten by with
   several hot pads from the kitchen when I started out.

        I want to make a brief comment about hops, as they are optional.
   Some sources will tell
   you to use them in your wort starters since they add some preserving
   characteristics, others will
   tell you that they are not necessary.  Personally, I have canned wort
   starters with and without
   hops, and have seen no difference - I have had good results either way.
   If I have 1/4 oz. or so
   left from previous brewing, I will throw them in at the beginning of the
   boil.  If I do not have any
   extra hops on hand, I do not make any special trips and do just fine
   without.  Since you have the
   option of decanting the beer off of your yeast starter before pitching,
   having hops in the starter
   wort will not matter.  This is also the way to go if you are an
   all-grain brewer, and do not want any
   malt extracts in your beer.

        Ok, let's get started.  Start out as you normally would, get your
   water boiling in your brew
   kettle, then add your malt and hops.  As the mixture returns to boiling,
   watch out for boil-overs.
   (Oh how I hate those!  What a mess, and a waste of beer.)  I usually
   boil the wort for 45 min. to 1
   hour.  While boiling the wort, it is best to get the water bath, jars,
   jar rings, and lids ready.  Fill
   the water bath to the appropriate level and start heating.  When I say
   appropriate level, I mean
   fill the kettle so that the water level will be just below the jar rings
   once the filled jars are placed
   in there.  You may want to fill your jars with water, put them in the
   processing kettle, and then fill
   the kettle to the appropriate level.  Then you can take the jars out and
   start heating the bath to
   boiling so that it will be ready and going when needed.  Keep the lid on
   the water bath to avoid
   excess evaporation and to hold in heat.  Count out the jar rings and
   lids, and have them handy.
   If you have any spare time during the boil, go have a homebrew!




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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 15:27:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: korz at xnet.com
Subject: recirculation/flash ferment/starch/carbonation

Brad writes:
>What I'd like to do now is leave the grain loose. For my sparge I would =
>like to pour the grain water mixture through a strainer followed by 180 =
>degree water. Then continue with the boil and extract additions, etc.
>
>Now my main question is do I need to be concerned with hot side aeration =
>at this point, or do you only need to be concerned with hot side =
>aeration after the boil is finished? Are there any other major flaws =
>with my proposed quasi mash? Does anyone else use this method? If so, =
>are you happy with the results.

Yes, you do indeed need to be concerned with HSA before the boil.  The
main problem with your method is that it does not include any recirculation
to establish a grain bed.  You see, even in a real lauter tun an incredible
amount of the grist is smaller than the openings in the false bottom/screen/
whatever.  The brewer relies on the grain itself becoming a filter media
for *itself*.  Recirculation is where you draw off the cloudy runnings
which contain a lot of pieces smaller than the false bottom holes/screen
holes, but when you pour them back on top of the grain bed, they get
caught by a sort of "lattice" of husks.

If you simply dump the grain into a strainer and not recirculate, you will
end up with a lot of what's called "draff" in your boil.  Recirculation
also filters out lipids (although there are conflicting opinions on whether
this is good or bad).   I have not done side-by-side tastings of beers made
with and without recirculation, but it's generally accepted among the pros
(the German pros being in favour of *long* recirculations) that some amount
of recirculation really must be done.

Lack of recirculation is one of the two reasons I'm not in favour of what I
call the "teabag method" of partial mashing.  Your proposal doesn't have
the pH problems of the "teabag method," but I personally feel that some
amount of recirculation is strongly advised.

***

Gerardo writes:
>I have just made my second brew and the same thing happened again. I =
>followed all the kit directions to the letter, and made sure of having =
>everything well sanitized. Both of my beers have been ales since the =
>climate here in Panama is pretty hot. I do control my room temperature =
>to about 68-78 F......Fermentation started exactly next day after =
>pitching...Bubbling at full speed, you could even dance to it!, then =
>KAPUT!...no go, no more action, just silence, but good smell!!!!......My =

This is not uncommon with warm (some would say "hot") fermentations.
Two-day and even one-day fermentations are common when fermenting in
the mid-70's.  The problems with beers that are made this way is that
they tend to have a lot of esters and a lot of higher alcohols ("higher"
meaning "bigger," e.g. butanol and propanol are "bigger" molecules than
ethanol and are therefore considered "higher alcohols").  These alcohols
tend to have harsher flavours than ethanol, more "alcohol aroma," and
lend a "hotness" to the palate (not unlike the hotness of peppers).
Some say (myself included) that higher alcohols contribute to hangovers.

There's nothing inherently "wrong" with these beers fermented warm,
however, some ales simply shouldn't be too estery (fruity aromas...
although some esters lend "nail polish remover" or "solventy" aromas),
and a Special Bitter (for example) that has an alcoholic aroma and
"heat" will be judged a poor example of the style.

One way to cool your fermenting beer is to cover it with a shirt and
keep the shirt wet by putting the shirt-covered fermenter in a tub of
water.  The evaporating water will cool the beer.  A large insulated
box with blocks of ice or plastic bottles of ice (changed daily) will
also work.

***
Dave writes:
>appropriate river songs to be sung. I have a sneaking suspicion that it 
>might be starch haze (don't ask me to tell what I did, it was pretty 
>stupid). Does starch have a bad effect on taste? I have tried to find 
>mention of taste problems without success. Is that because there are 
>none/few or because it is so bad no one would drink it? If starch causes 
>taste problems, I would consider using gelatin and seeing if the yeast 
>drops out (would this tell if it is starch?). If it is starch, is there a 
>cure? If there are no taste problems, I will sing a few bars of "Deep 
>River" and Bottle it.

If it's starch, it should react with iodine.  If indeed it's starch,
I'm afraid that only tight filtering would remove the haze.

***
Jeff writes:
>CO2 is less soluble in a solution that has been handled roughly.  
>Shake up a can of coke (Don't try this experiment with BEER!).  
>Open the coke -- you get spray and foam.  The co2 dissolved 

I believe this has to do with eddy currents providing many nucleation
sites and nothing to do with solubility.

>beer.  This force of escaping gas moves the beer, causing co2
>to become less soluble.  If you have a greater headspace, the
>force of escaping gas in the headspace lasts longer, moving
>the beer more, causing co2 to become even less soluble in
>the beer.  Since the co2 is less soluble, more co2 escapes
>solution, giving more bubbles, giving the impression of higher
>initial carbonation.

I think this is flawed logic.  The incompressability of the beer
means that it "moves" so incredibly little, that it is not a
factor in the equation.  A valiant effort, however.  Also, it 
fails to explain why, after pouring, the bottles filled almost
to the top had less carbonation (to the tongue) than "underfilled"
bottles.  If your theory was right, there would remain more
CO2 in solution which would mean "more fizzing" on the tongue
when you drank it no?

I am not willing to commit to any explanation yet, although the
"oxygen in the headspace" one sounds the most likely one up to
this point.  Lots more experimentation is needed before we
can begin to prove or disprove this theory.

Al.

Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz at xnet.com


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Date: Thu, 5 Jun 1997 15:28:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: korz at xnet.com
Subject: sparge time/stuck ferment/1st round winners/summer/honey/Weizens

Andy asks what's the right length of time for a sparge: an hour
or 10 minutes?

10 minutes is *far*, *far* too short.  An hour is more like it.
There is a formula which I believe Jim Busch posted a year or
two ago, which commercial brewers allegedly use, based upon the
cross-sectional area of the grain bed.

When I brewed 5-gallon batches, I used to limit the flow to take
45 minutes to an hour for 6-7 gallons of runnings.  Recently, I took 17
gallons of runnings in 90 minutes and got just a hair under 29
points/lb/gal in the fermenters (14 gallons).  This implies that for
the brands of malt *I* used (M&F and Weyermann), the gap on *my* JSP
adjustable maltmill, *my* home-made EasyMasher(tm)-like mashtun, *my*
sparge water temperature (170-160F), etc... I got a *reasonable*
yield with this sparge rate, but had my sparge water been only 150F,
I may have gotten only 28 or 27 points... or maybe if I had crushed
a little coarser, I may have only gotten 27 or 26 or 25 points...

It's rather complicated and you really have to know your system, but,
in general, I think it's safe to say that it's better to sparge
too slowly than too fast.  That said, I wouldn't go over 15 minutes
per gallon of runnings unless I was using rye and didn't have the
choice (long story... a rye beer I made once took 3 hours to lauter
7 gallons!).

***
George writes:
>     Tim Plummer asks why his fermentation has apparently stopped after 
>     just two days.  He pitched dried yeast, and it took off right away.  
>     Well, without being there to take a hydrometer reading, I couldn't say 
>     for sure that your fermentation isn't stuck, but I'd bet a lot on it.

I'll take that bet George ;^)!  I believe that the only *real* stuck
fermentations are due to CO2 toxidity and alcohol intolerance.  Some
yeasts don't take a lot of dissolved CO2 to begin slowing down.  One
way to test if CO2 is the problem, is to swirl the fermenter (with the
airlock still in place).  If a lot of CO2 bubbles out and the beer
begins fermenting again, then the problem is dissolved CO2.  Alcohol
tolerance should only come into play on beers over 1.100.  Sure, if you
underpitch *AND* underaerate, you can begin to exceed the yeast's
alcohol tolerance with a 1.070 beer, but you're less likely to underpitch
with dry yeast and dry yeast is aerated *constantly* during production,
so it doesn't need as much dissolved O2 as liquid yeast.

***

I'd like to point out that the subcategories of the AHA National 1st
round winners should NOT have been posted.  What if there was only one
Weizenbock in the whole 2nd round or only one Berliner Weiss?  Then
the second round judges would know that John Doe or Mary Doe brewed it.
In general, I think that the list of 1st round winners should *not*
be posted till after the 2nd round.

***
Bob writes:
>Since summer is right around the bend, what effects does this have on my
>brewing. I am a newbie and this is my first summer. I realize that temp. has
>a big effect on taste. My brewhouse (Basement) is about 64-66 degrees now. I
>have a batch on the stove today and one more in waiting...a Canadian ale.

You *knew* you would hear from me on this, didn't you?

Temperature is a factor, but not a big one (see my comments in my previous
post).  What's far more important is all the life that floats around in
the air during the summer.  Lambic brewers don't brew in the summer
because there are just *too many* wild yeasts, bacteria, moulds, etc.,
in the air.  I know that I, personally, can't brew in the summer
without using either filtered air or oxygen for aeration/oxygenation.

I recommend being *extra*, *extra* careful regarding sanitation
(e.g. covering the slits between the lid and kettle with foil or
plastic wrap during immersion chilling, putting the sanitized
carboy on its side or covering the mouth while you cool the wort,
etc.) and using either a filtered air system or oxygen for
aeration/oxygenation.

***
Eugene writes:
>	A friend of mine wants to make a fruit beer with a tart berry (I
>forget which kind of berry).  I've already checked the archives and don't
>see recipes for fruit beers which don't use sweet berries.  How should my
>friend balance the tart flavor, with honey?  If so, how much for a 5
>gallon batch?  

Sorry... won't work.  Honey is almost 100% fermentable and will *not*
sweeten the beer.  Lactose will, but you have to be extra careful with
sanitation because many bacteria and possibly even some wild yeasts
can eat lactose.  1/2 pound in 5 gallons will add a slight sweetness
whereas 1 pound will be a noticeable sweetness.  You can also increase
sweetness with larger additions of light-coloured crystal malts and
by mashing at the warmer end of the range.

***
Paul writes regarding Bavarian Weizens:
>1. It's supposed to be cloudy. (Pick up a bottle of Hacker-Pshorr in the
>   local booze supply.) I usually leave it in the secondary for
>   about 2 weeks (after a 5-7 day primary).  If it's not clear,
>   bottle anyhow. Then gloat 'cause you've got the style right.
>   A clear weizen may taste great, but it's not to style. (Sorry
>   Woody, If you offer me a bottle, I won't turn it down.) ;-) 

There are two types of Bavarian Weizens (besides Dunkel and Weizenbock):
Hefe Weizen and Kristal Weizen.  Hefe Weizens are with yeast and Kristal
are filtered.  Virtually *ALL* German commercially-made Hefe Weizens
are made with an ale yeast, filtered, and then bottled with a *LAGER*
yeast.  If you gently pick up and gently pour a bottle of Hefe Weizen
that has not been shaken up lately, it will pour perfectly clear.  They
are not *inherently* cloudy.  Witbiers are inherently cloudy, but that's
due to the wheat protein, not the yeast.

If the yeast is not settling, you may have a problem with a wild yeast,
your yeast may have mutated, you may have a starch haze, you may have
too much protein in your beer, or you may not have waited long enough.
Saying "Weizens are cloudy" is a cop-out, not a valid reason for your
beer to be cloudy.

>2. Bavarian Weisse is often called "Hefe Weisse".  Hefe is german for
>   yeast.  The idea is that you drink that too.  If you haven't tried,

See above... the two are not equivalent.  Hefe Weizen or Hefe Weiss
("weiss" means "white" (i.e. not brown) whereas "weizen" means "wheat")
are a subcategory of Bavarian Weizens or Bavarian Weissbiers.  All
Hefe Weissbiers and Hefe Weizens are Bavarian Weizens, but not the
other way around.

Al.

Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL
korz at xnet.com




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