HOMEBREW Digest #2445 Fri 20 June 1997

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  RE: Grits? in HBD 2443 ("Grant W. Knechtel")
  Stainless Cooler -- Thanks ("John L. Heubel")
  Technology Malting and Brewing (Fred Waltman)
  Re: Motorising that bastard Corona! (JONATHAN BOVARD)
  easymasher sparging (Dave Whitman)
  champagne clarity (Dave Whitman)
  Subscribe, unsubscribe, queue, cancel, etc... (Some Guy)
  RE: Scotch Ales/Juggling (Bill Ridgely)
  Wit (Kit Anderson)
  N2 Dispensing Question (Brian_Moore)
  Cut Your Nipples Everybody! (John Goldthwaite)
  Removing yeast sediment from Champagne (Larry Johnson)
  Planning trip tp Portland, ME...Pleeze help me (BIGGINS)
  William's Mash Kit (Wesley McDaniel)
  Motor Mill / Wit / RIMS batch sparge ("Bridges, Scott")
  Equipment search (Wesley McDaniel)
  Removal of Champagne "Trub" ("Penn, Thomas")
  Re: Technology Brewing and Malting (Steve Piatz)
  Peat Taste in Extract Brews ("Lee Carpenter")
  Scotch Thread / Pat's HB Shop Woes (RANDY ERICKSON)
  iodophor, sparging, corn (Kent Tracy)
  Chest Freezer Taps (Glenn Raudins)
  RE: Champagne and clarity ("Mark Nelson")
  Manners ("Bridges, Scott")
  A cool little sparge filter (Mike Spinelli)
  Cherry plambic ("Grant W. Knechtel")

NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS: hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hbd.org (Articles are published in the order they are received.) If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to homebrew-request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL **ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!! IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at alpha.rollanet.org Homebrew Digest Information on the Web: http://hbd.org Requests for back issues will be ignored. Back issues are available via: Anonymous ftp from... hbd.org /pub/hbd ftp.stanford.edu /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer E-mail... ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com (send a one-line e-mail message with the word help for instructions.) AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 19:27:06 -0700 From: "Grant W. Knechtel" <GWK at hartcrowser.com> Subject: RE: Grits? in HBD 2443 Mark Rancourt asked if anyone had used grits as an adjunct. I used grits (polenta, actually) instead of flaked maize in a pre prohibition pilsner. They worked fine, I did boil them with a small amount of milled 6-row to gelatinize. They were considerably less expensive than buying the flaked maize from the brew store. I can't see the logic in buying an adjunct that costs more than base malt, unless it contributes a unique character to the beer. The beer turned out great - it was my first attempt at a lager, and I was very pleased. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:08:01 -0500 From: "John L. Heubel" <jlheubel at wf.net> Subject: Stainless Cooler -- Thanks To the collective, Thanks for all the emails about my stainless vacuum bottle. To summarize: The vacuum, if it is still intact, would effectively negate direct heating due to its insulating capabilities. Should have thought of this myself. One response said these coolers are so good I could heat my sparge water the night prior and it would still be within a couple degrees when needed. Drilling the wall so I could fill it with water to use like a double boiler would enable heat transfer, but would still be fairly slow, even with the water at boiling. Steam pressure may build up too much creating a hazardous situation, life and limbs strewn about the brewery :o( , and without constant attention, the water may boil off leading to overheating the metal bottom. The cooler is indeed 304 Stainless with a welded nipple (3/8" I think), and with a larger threaded end. It doesn't have the actual spigot, but I should be able to get a stainless ball valve which should work even better. The Do NOT USE FOR MILK label was due to military contract requirements. The Plan... Clean it up really well with a hot TSP soak and measure temp loss to determine the state of the vacuum. Use as is for sparge water and/or mash tun once I go back and find the infusion mash heat calculations I thought I wouldn't need due to my normal direct heat/ice cubes for fine tuning temperature steps. Go back to the scrap yard every week to find more of these coolers :o). John Heubel Wichita Falls, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:54:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Fred Waltman <waltman at netcom.com> Subject: Technology Malting and Brewing Glenn Raudins asks about Technology Malting and Brewing: Let me say right off that I am not enough of an expert to judge the book on a technical basis. It is a more more difficult read than Malting and Brewing Science -- mainly because there are way to many typos and the translation is a bit awkward (not that I could do better.). It is also more of a practical book than a scientific book -- great if you plan on large scale brewing, but not too much there for homebrewers, esp. if you already have M&BS. When I ordered it, I asked if there were plans to distribute it in the US (in case I wanted more copies) and at that time (last fall) I was told there were not any plans for US distribution. But that may have changed. You could always try amazon.com Fred Waltman Culver City, CA (Los Angeles area) http://www.brewsupply.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 16:43:14 +1000 (EST) From: JONATHAN BOVARD <j.bovard at student.qut.edu.au> Subject: Re: Motorising that bastard Corona! In my local paper "the Trading post" you often seen electric motors with gearboxes for sale around $70-100. All you need then are two pulleys and a belt which can often be bought from washing machine reconditioners. You probably would want to spin at around 50-80rpm. Cheers JB j.bovard at student.qut.edu.au Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 08:22:31 From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: easymasher sparging In HBD#2444, aab1 at chrysler.com asks about improving yield: >Speaking of easymashers and channeling and batch sparging, I've been >"Fly Sparging" with my easymasher, adding water by hand using a small bowl >sitting on the grain bed to prevent disturbing it too much. My >efficiency seems to only be around 55% ~ 60% tops. My mash techniques have been a single infusion at 150 for 70min. My grain is crushed at the homebrew >shop using a knurled(standard, I think) phil-mill (also I think). I >usually spend about 45min to an hour sparging. One thing I recommend is tasting samples from your grain bed after sparging, looking for sweet spots (indicating residual sugar). Using this test, I found a "dead" spot in my lauter tun that wasn't getting adequately washed out. Now towards the end of my sparge, I let the bed go almost dry, and pour water directly over the dead spot to get the sugar that's trapped there. My yield went from a mean of 28 pt*gal/lb to around 31 with this change. Watch your temperature control during the conversion rest. There was a time when I got lazy for a few batches and stopped putting my mash tun into a warm oven to hold the temperature constant. It was cooling down during the rest, and my yield suffered. Try adding a 30 minute rest at 40C/104F at the beginning of your mash. Dr. Fix has posted data showing improved yields with such a rest. When I started using it I managed to convince myself that I got a couple extra points, although I never did a statistical test to confirm this and I was fiddling with enough other things that the observations were badly confounded. I've seen speculation that the rest allows time for enzymes to dissolve, or that it allows pre-swelling of starch granules. >One thought I had was to replace the easymash screen with a circular >copper slotted manifold, maybe with a part jutting into the center as >well (like an upper case G). I did this (a simple "O", not a "G") and am very happy with the result, although there was no obvious increase in mash yield. The benefits I perceived all had to do with the boil: 1. easier stirring w/o the #$ at %& tube running through the middle of the pot. 2. can use whirlpooling to minimize hot and cold break, since the loop avoids the central pile of break material. 3. The slots are less prone to plugging up with break material than the screen. 4. By putting the slots on the manifold bottom, I can drain the pot much more completely, wasting less wort. I literally can get all but about 10 ml of the wort, vs. a liter or more with the EM. - --- Dave Whitman "The opinions expressed are those of the author, and not dwhitman at rohmhaas.com Rohm and Haas Co." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 08:37:23 From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com> Subject: champagne clarity In HBD#2444, andrew_stavrolakis at harvard.edu asks: >It's my understanding that proper champagne is fermented in the bottle. > >How then, do champagne manufacturers remove the yeast sediment from their >bottles, producing such a crystal clear beverage? > The process is relatively mind-boggling. They store the bottles upside down so the yield collects in the bottle neck (simple enough). Now for the mind-boggling part. If memory serves, they dip the bottle neck in l(N2)or some other cold bath to freeze a plug of the wine as an _in situ_ stopper, remove the cork, ?scoop? out the yeast, then recap. The frozen plug keeps the champagne under pressure during yeast removal. - --- Dave Whitman "The opinions expressed are those of the author, and not dwhitman at rohmhaas.com Rohm and Haas Co." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 08:21:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Subscribe, unsubscribe, queue, cancel, etc... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager! Just a quick note regarding the sending of commands to the homebrew-request line: o Commands MUST be in the BODY note. Subjects don't cut it. o Commands must be LOWER - er - lower case. o Subscribe/unsubscribe requests MUST be sent from the address being subscribed/unsubscribed. The server will subscribe or unsubscribe the address from which the note came ignoring any address you might put following the unsubscribe command. If this were not so, Dave Burley and Algis Korzonas would have unsubscribed each other long ago! (Just kidding! they're both great guys!) o Spam-proofed addresses cannot be reached by the server, and, therefor, cannot be subscribed nor responded to. The server is set up to DELETE addresses it cannot reach. Keep this in mind when posting and "commanding" the digest! See ya! Pat Babcock | "Beer is my obsession, and I'm late for pbabcock at oeonline.com | therapy..." -PGB brewbeerd at aol.com | "Let a good beer be the exclamation point janitor@ brew.oeonline.com | at the end of your day as every sentence Home Brew Digest Janitor | requires proper punctuation." -PGB Webmaster of the Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html Home of the Home Brew Flea Market Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 08:52:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Bill Ridgely <RIDGELY at A1.CBER.FDA.GOV> Subject: RE: Scotch Ales/Juggling In HBD #2444, Jim Busch responds to a posting about the perceived vinous character of some Scotch ales: >I wonder how much of this is a result of phenolics from >wild yeast. The practice of yeast pressing would >indicate to me a high probability of wild yeasts >becoming resident. Maybe Bill Ridgely could chime in >here with his expert opinion. I know Bill made some >fantastic Scotch ales with dry yeast but when cultured >the results were not nearly as pleasing. I can't recall drinking many ales in Scotland with a vinous character, but certainly some of the stronger ones imported to the states may suffer from various degrees of oxidation, imparting that distinctive "sherry" character. The Scottish practice of pressing and repitching, however, certainly leaves open the possibility of some wild yeast or bacteria getting into a ferment. Wendy and I brought back samples of pressed yeast from several Scottish breweries (Belhaven, Caledonian, MacLays) and brewed with them, producing good, full-bodied, authentic ales each time. However, subsequent brews using preserved cake lacked the same character, and in at least one case (an unfortunate 70 shilling heavy ale brewed for a cask ale class at Jim's), produced a contaminated ferment. Wendy's cultures of the yeast cakes showed them to contain various degrees of bacterial and wild yeast contamination. Anyone who has seen a yeast press at work in a Scottish brewery (a pretty messy operation) can see the potential problems, as well as the reason huge amounts of pressed cake are pitched in subsequent batches. The intent is for the large volume of "good" yeast to overwhelm the wild yeast and bacteria. This seems to work well for the most part, but I suspect some character must be contributed by these wild beasties. BTW, in response to the juggling survey - I juggle occasionally, although I've never gotten beyond 3 objects. It keeps my hands occupied during those long sparges and boils :-). Bill Ridgely Alexandria, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:22:58 -0400 From: Kit Anderson <kitridge at bigfoot.com> Subject: Wit Jim Busch responded; ><Add the orange peel and coriander to secondary so the aromatics don't get ><scrubbed. > >Here I really dont concur. Some boiling of both coriander and orange peel is >desirable. If one wants to enhance the effect then additional spices can >be added to the fermenter but thats not a typical procedure in Belgium. >I have spoken with a brewer at Hoegaarden about this. Be sure to use the >right Curacao peels and high quality whole coriander seed, freshly crushed >just prior to use. Toast the whole coriander seeds, cool and grind. I used to add it at knock out, but I really like the coriander flavor better when it is added to secondary. The orange peel can be boiled or added at secondary. I have found most US judges expect citrus aroma. Orange in particular. A lot of this comes from the right yeast. I haven't found Curacao to add any orange aroma. So I add sweet orange peel to the secondary for the judges. The only time I didn't get a score above 38 was when I used corainder from Penzey's. It was fresher and therefore much more intense than store bought. Makes good chili, though. - --- Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kitridge at bigfoot.com> I suppose that it's theoretically possible for a Yankee to make decent barbecue. But it sure ain't a pretty thought! -Smokey Pitts Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 08:08:59 -0500 From: Brian_Moore at amat.com Subject: N2 Dispensing Question Hello, I've been following the recent discussions about using N2 do dispense homebrew with great interest. Hopefully there's still a little life left in the topic. I would really like to add some N2 capability to my current draft set-up. I am currently using just the liquid hoses and the hand-held picinic-style faucets to dispense from corny kegs. I will soon be constructing a draft tower of sorts with regular shanks and faucets. I am wondering if I need one of those Guinness style faucets to get the proper effect with N2 or if I can just use a standard faucet. Any experience or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:18:53 -0400 (EDT) From: ir358 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John Goldthwaite) Subject: Cut Your Nipples Everybody! Malty Dogs, One and All, This is directed primarily for beginners and newbies. Tired of losing precious liquid when racking from primary to 2ndary and again from 2ndary to bottling bucket? Cut the nipple off the end of the orange thingy that attaches to the racking cane. You'll need to hold it just off the sediment layer coming out of primary, and tilt the bucket as it gets down to the dregs. Sediment layer in 2ndary is pretty thin so you can rest it on the bottom of the carboy. Tilt the carboy too and you will lose almost nothing going to bottling bucket. I used to lose at least a quart before I started doing this. Loss now is probably less than a pint. I owe this idea to Lorne Franklin who doesn't use the orange thingy at all. I wasn't crazy about going that far, so I just cut the nipple off and it's been workin' great ever since. Lorne, ironically is of Scottish descent, Clan of the Cave Bear, I think, but let's not go there today! Now, I want you all to go pound Stout. - -- "Gonna drink all day, gonna rock all night, The law come to getcha if you don't walk right..."[Garcia/Hunter] Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:01:17 -0400 From: Larry Johnson <maltster at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Removing yeast sediment from Champagne Andrew asks: >It's my understanding that proper champagne is fermented in the bottle. >How then, do champagne manufacturers remove the yeast sediment from their >bottles, producing such a crystal clear beverage? I have seen photos of one method (there are sure to be others) where the bottle is inverted and the sediment allowed to settle down to the neck of the bottle. That part of the bottle is then frozen and the ice "plug" that forms (which, by the way, contains the sediment) is removed. The bottle is then corked. I presume that the very cold temperatures, careful handling, and minimum time with the bottle open keep the wine from losing too much of its carbonation. Most people stumble over the truth now and then, but they usually manage to pick themselves up and go on anyway. - W. Churchill Larry Johnson - Athens, GA - maltster at ix.netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:04:29 -0400 From: BIGGINS at murray.fordham.edu Subject: Planning trip tp Portland, ME...Pleeze help me Greeting y'all... I'm planning a trip to Portland, Maine and I would appreciate any and all brewery and brewpub info anyone has. I would like to visit as many as possible. I'm driving up from Westchester County, 15 miles north of NYC. My route takes me through Hartford, CT and Boston. Please email me. Private email is fine. I thank everyone in advance for their help. Note: yes, I am a homebrewer but stopped this winter, as my fermentation was attracting mice. Now that the weather is warm, I should start again, but unfortuantely I'm moving into NYC soon (grad school) so it looks unlikey that I will be able to do it anytime soon. Oh darn! At least the brewpubs will keep me satisfied (and the Yorkville Brewery will be 2 blocks away from me. Too bad it couldn't be the Heartland). Again any help is appreciated. Bunches o' thanx. John Biggins Dept, of Chemistry Fordham University Bronx, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:10:58 -0500 (CDT) From: Wesley McDaniel <wmcdanie at marlin.utmb.edu> Subject: William's Mash Kit Does anyone here have any experience with the William's Mash Kit? Would you recommend it for a brewer about to make the quantum leap into all-grain goodness? It looks like a pretty good set up. However, I am unsure about how well it works. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Wesley McDaniel wesley.mcdaniel at utmb.edu University of Texas Medical Branch, Galveston - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 97 10:21:00 EDT From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess at mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: Motor Mill / Wit / RIMS batch sparge I'll throw my $ into the motorizing mill thread.... I have a MaltMill that I motorized using a 100 (approx) rpm used GE gear motor that I got from one of the surplus mail order places. I added a power cord and household light switch. Works great. The motor was about $25 incl capacitor. I can't take credit for the design. I stole it from fellow Palmetto State Brewer, Jim Griggers. As I recall, Jack Schmidling recommends keeping the MM under 400 rpm. **************************** Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 10:42:35 -0400 (EDT) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Traditional Wits/Scotch ales >Mark notes Martin Lodahl's BT article (which is very good IMO) > ><Use the right yeast. BrewTek and Yeast Culture Kit Co have the best wit ><yeasts. >Excellent advice! > ><Add the orange peel and coriander to secondary so the aromatics don't get ><scrubbed. > >Here I really dont concur. Some boiling of both coriander and orange peel is >desirable. If one wants to enhance the effect then additional spices can >be added to the fermenter but thats not a typical procedure in Belgium. >I have spoken with a brewer at Hoegaarden about this. Be sure to use the >right Curacao peels and high quality whole coriander seed, freshly crushed >just prior to use. I'm not familiar with either the BrewTek or YCKC Wit yeast, but I have brewed numerous times with Wyeast Wit 3944. I've taste tested my Wit head-to-head with Celis (and separately Celis with Hoegaarden). My Wit was very similar to Celis (and I couldn't distinguish bet. Celis and Hoegaarden -- ok, it was at the last stop on a pub crawl). What different profile would you get using these other yeasts over Wyeast? I'm curious what difference I could expect in a Wit fermented with them. My normal approach to adding spices in a Wit is to add 1/2 with 15 min left in the boil and 1/2 at flame out. This seems to keep some amount of flavor and aroma of the spices. I use about 2 oz. of both coriander and Curacao orange peel in total. ************************** Date: Wed, 18 Jun 97 08:13:30 PDT From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: Batch Sparging >>> KennyEddy writes: > >K> Dion Hollenbeck brings up an interesting point about using a RIMS >K> with batch-sparging. Since the wort has been circulating through >K> most or all of the mash, at a rate higher than the typical non-RIMS >K> sparge, the first runoff can be done at full-throttle as Dion >K> suggests. For the second runoff, recirculating after adding the >K> water would be simple and again would allow a faster runoff. In >K> this case, batch-sparging may actually be faster than >K> full-sparging. > >While doing a second recirculation may be useful to boost extraction >rate, I have never done it. I drain, fill with sparge water, drain, >fill, drain..... usually for 3-4 cycles. > >dion I'm enjoying this RIMS batch sparge discussion. I've evolved into this very kind of approach. I batch sparge my RIMS similar to Dion. However, I never drain the mash tun completely until the last addition of sparge water. I've always been concerned because of the conventional wisdom that says keep the sparge time as long as possible. Despite the conventional wisdom I've not encountered a loss in efficiency due to shortening the sparge time. Altogether, my total sparge time is more like 20-30 minutes. Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:15:23 -0500 (CDT) From: Wesley McDaniel <wmcdanie at marlin.utmb.edu> Subject: Equipment search Does anyone in the Houston area know where I might find a large (8-10 gallon) enamel-on-steel brewing kettle? Are there any places that can order one for me? - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Wesley McDaniel wesley.mcdaniel at utmb.edu University of Texas Medical Branch, Galveston - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 11:13:37 -0400 From: "Penn, Thomas" <penn#m#_thomas at msgw.vf.lmco.com> Subject: Removal of Champagne "Trub" Regarding the question of how champagne makers remove the bottle-fermentation yeast from the bottles: What they do is invert the bottles, and let the yeast and crap settle in the neck of the bottle. When it is settled and cleared, they chill the neck of the bottle in sub-freezing brine and freeze a "slug" of yeast and crap. Then they open the bottles and allow the slug to be pushed out by the carbonation in the bottle, and voila, clean champagne. I believe that the rest of the bottle contents are cold also, so CO2 loss is minimized. While they have the bottle open, they often tinker with the stuff and add/mix in other stuff (like cognac or other vintages of champagne) and give this process the elegant name "dosage"-pronounced in french as "doh-sahg". I used to think that bottle-fermented champagne was a very simple, pure process, but they seem to do a lot of mucking around with ingredients to make it. Hope this explains it. Tom Penn Bordentown, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:32:17 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Piatz <piatz at cray.com> Subject: Re: Technology Brewing and Malting Glenn Raudins <raudins at lightscape.com> asks about Technology Brewing and Malting: > Has anyone seen the book "Technology Brewing and Malting" available from > VLB Berlin? It is supposedly the english translation of THE german > textbook used in training. Does anyone know of any retailers this side > of the Atlantic that may have this book? Otherwise it is ordering from > Germany. > > Information on the book can be found on the web at: > http://www.vlb-berlin.org/english/kunze/index.html I have the book, I ordered it from VLB. I haven't finished reading the book, yet. I find it to be a very good reference, in the same class as DeClerk. The text is a very well produced book with lots of figures, tables and references. The descriptions of professional brewing equipment are modern unlike DeClerck (which was written about 40 years ago). There is a lot of information on commercial methods and equipment as expected. The technical information is well written and presented in a clear manner (take a look at the web page for samples). One nit would be that lot of the figures are captioned in German with the translation at the bottom of the figure - I suppose that kept the translation and English language production costs down. As a German text the descriptions of beer styles does tend to focus on German-style beers. Don't expect to learn about lambic brewing techniques in this book. - -- Steve Piatz Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 11:36:41 -0400 From: "Lee Carpenter" <leec at redrose.net> Subject: Peat Taste in Extract Brews Fellow stir-doctors, What is the best way to impart a natural peat taste in an extract beer? I want to attempt a clone of S.A. Scotch Ale. Lee C. Carpenter "You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline--it helps if you have some kind of football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer." -- Frank Zappa Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 10:12:57 -0700 From: RANDY ERICKSON <RANDYE at mid.org> Subject: Scotch Thread / Pat's HB Shop Woes Ian in Fresno wishes he had never started the Scotch/Scottish thread, but like most things on the HBD it's taken on a life of its own. Personally, I thought the discussions were pretty interesting. A friend recently visited Burlington Vermont and brought me back a signed copy of Greg Noonan's "Scotch Ale" (What a gal!), and I've really enjoyed it. While the rules are not hard and fast, Greg defines Scotch ale as having OG's from 1.070 to 1.130 and Scottish ales from 1.030 to 1.050. The differences between Scottish and English ales are many. In addition to the differences already described here recently, the Scots tended to use shorter boils, lower temperature ferments (on the order of 50 degrees F), and lager-like aging. There is also a tendency to use small amounts of roasted barley (2-3%) rather than crystal or caramel malts for flavor and color. ****************** I read with interest the exchange between Pat Babcock and the (part time) proprietor of a HB shop out East. I still don't understand what Pat did wrong. We homebrewers tend to be rather impulsive (when we're not being anal) and when we decide to go buy supplies, we want to do it now. I saw Pat as fulfilling his duty as a customer by showing up at the shop, and can empathize with his expression of frustration in not being able to get in the door on two separate occasions. Joe (the proprietor) then went on a disjointed ramble where he defended his right to show up when he felt like it and accused Pat of trying to hurt his business. I might be able to buy this conspiracy theory if this were Pat's first and only HBD post (like, uh, Joe's), but Pat's a respected member of our community, dammit, and most everybody here knows better. I sure don't think Pat did anything wrong, and am puzzled by the apology. I would think that a shop owner would want to know when a customer was dis-satisfied, rather than have him take his business elsewhere (which is what the majority of unhappy customers do). Randy Erickson Modesto, California randye at mid.org (Business) randye at worldnet.att.net (Home) Stanislaus Hoppy Cappers c/o Barley & Wine, Ceres, CA "Beer makes you feel the way you ought to feel without beer." -- Henry Lawson Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 11:17:35 -0500 From: Kent Tracy <kentt at informix.com> Subject: iodophor, sparging, corn As far as iodophor residue is concerned, I worry about residue when preparing yeast starter bottles. If the iodophor is not rinsed, is the residue sufficient to negatively impact the development of a very small yeast population? - -------------------------- The batch sparging thread has me wondering... I fail to understand the significant difference between maintaining a sparge water level just above the grain bed (as I assume is the ideal for fly sparging), and a sparge water level of arbitrary depth above the grain bed. In other words, why trickle water in, balancing the flow, as opposed to adding "batches"? Is channeling theoretically the drawback? I seem to get similar extraction whether batch sparging or fly sparging. - ------------------------- jwilkins wrote: > I have been told or read someplace (or both) that enzymes in corn > start converting sugar to starch as soon as the ear is pulled and > that this action is stopped by cooking. Is this plausible? Do enzymes swing both ways and convert sugars to starches? I've heard the same explanation before, but now that I have some fundamental understanding of enzymatic processes in brewing, it seems rather backward. By the way, the 150F rest while cooking corn to boost sweetness sounds very interesting; I plan on trying the same experiment! Kent Tracy kentt at informix.com Lenexa, KS Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:23:52 -0700 From: Glenn Raudins <raudins at lightscape.com> Subject: Chest Freezer Taps Rob asks: >I just bought a chest freezer for my kegs. Does anyone know where to >buy taps for mounting on the top. Also are there any guidelines >for drilling holes in the sides and tops of freezers? (Besides >"Avoid drilling holes in the refrigerant lines") :-) A good supply of tower taps for the top of the chest freezer and taps with a shank for the front of refrigs, is Superior Products. You can find them on the web at http://www.superprod.com or 1-800-328-9800. I am considering purchasing a tower tap from them for my chest freezer (just one of those things you never get around to.) On drilling into the side of a chest freezer, don't. From what I understand you stand no chance of getting a tap through without going through the cooling tubes. So that leaves you two choices, either put a tower tap on top (with some form of re-enforcement in the lid because they are far too flexible now adays) or build a spacer between the lid and the body (the hinges usually have an adjustment that will allow this) and then put a tap with shank through this. Enjoy Glenn Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 13:00:44 -0400 From: "Mark Nelson" <menelson at mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Champagne and clarity Andy S. wrote: > It's my understanding that proper champagne is fermented in the bottle. > >How then, do champagne manufacturers remove the yeast sediment from their >bottles, producing such a crystal clear beverage? Having just toured the Korbel champagne house in Sonoma County this weekend, this is what I learned: Of utmost importance, Korbel started a microbrewery called Russian River Brewing. It's right there at the vineyard! Everyone seems to be jumping on the microbrew band wagon. Pretty passable to good brews, IM very HO. Now to answer the question at hand, champagne made in the methode champenoise tradition undergoes a primary fermentation in a large vessel (at Korbel these were very old oak barrels so there wasn't any oak flavor). They are then bottled when the sugar content has dropped - at this point the wine is still still (so to speak). The bottle serves as a secondary fermentation vessel. The bottles are placed in "riddling" racks at an angle which lets the yeast settle in the neck of the bottle. The bottle is turned one quarter turn and slammed back in the rack each day by, you guessed it, The Riddler. When the secondary fermentation is complete, the neck of the bottle is frozen so the yeast plug is trapped. The *bottle cap* is then taken off and the yeast plug magically pops out leaving carbonated wine still in the bottle. At this point a small amount of sugar water is added (called the dossage - made with cane sugar, if I remember right). Then a warmed cork is used to cork the bottle, and the metal cage/label is put on. A lot of this is mechanized in US champagne production, much to the dismay of the French purists I imagine. One interesting note, The Riddler in the past was the highest paid employee, and worked in a fencing mask and very heavy gloves in case the hand-blown and highly pressurized bottles exploded on him. Since I'm using bandwidth here, another trivial note. All champagne have wire cages, with (count 'em) six half twists. This apparently is a Trivial Pursuit question. Also, other methods are used to produce quote-unquote champagnes and sparkling wines, where the secondary fermentation is also in a large vessel and the wine is filtered and carbonated at bottling. This is the main difference with the "methode" described above. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 97 11:34:00 EDT From: "Bridges, Scott" <bridgess at mmsmtp.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> Subject: Manners 2 separate recent occurrences cause me to add the following unbrewing comment..... Pat Writes: >My sincere and heartfelt apologies....... I'm not really sure if an apology was necessary or not, since I'm not sure you did/said anything out of line. But, it's nice to know that it concerned you enough to apologize anyway. Then, Ian writes: >OK Guys! Knock it off! My reply regarding Scottish Ales was ment mostly = >as a humorous post. It was definitely not meant to spark heated debate. > >You guys need to lighten up. Times too short and there are way too many = >beers to brew to waste time yelling at each other over the e-mail ether. > >I regret ever having opened my electronic mouth, now. Does anyone know = >of a site with a bigger sense of commerderie and humor? Now, wait just a minute. I think most of us got (and appreciated) your humor, at least I did. But, unless I missed something, there wasn't even a remotely hostile comment made. There were several opinions stated based on personal observations. All very polite and certainly no yelling. Healthy discussion about differences between English and Scottish ales, IMHO. I think the overall tone of the HBD has improved drastically of late. Good luck finding another group with a bigger sense of comraderie and humor...... Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 97 17:02:02 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: A cool little sparge filter HBDers, Forgive my syntax, as I've just come from a lunch featuring Franziskaner hefewe izen, Rogue Nut Brown Nectar and last but not leat, Aventinus Weizenbock. Anyway, here's a neat little gizmo for those who've while sparging, watch helple ssly with horror as small particulates flow thru your hose into your boil tun, only to collect at the bottom and boil with the rest of your hard earned labor. It only took one instance od this to figure a way to capture the crud. At the end of your sparge hose (the end that rests in the boilt tun), attach a tee'd barb'ed fitting (see below) mine is brass. the hose goes in the middle barb, while a 1' piece of hose goes on each of the other two barbs. You then take a nylon hop bag and place the tee inside and sinch the cord tightly down around the middle sparge hose barb. With this gizmo, who cares if you see crap flowing towards your precious wort? It get's trapped by the gizmo, As the level of your wort rises you can elevate the bag so it doesn't sit on the bottom of the kettle. No matter how your false bottom is configured, there's always a chance some crap will sneak thru during the sparge. Works for me. I I --- hose to mash tun ^ ______ ^ ______ <<< >>>hose barbs (the above gizmo is placed inside the nylon hop bag) Mike Spinelli Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 18:41:00 -0700 From: "Grant W. Knechtel" <GWK at hartcrowser.com> Subject: Cherry plambic I've got a nice plambic perking away in the brew closet, and it's coming on cherry season, and I have a newbie kind of question. Given that true Belgian kriek cherries are getting scarce even in Belgium, can I make a decent cherry plambic from commonly available American cherries? Would bing cherries have enough color to survive a year or more in tertiary with brettanomyces? Would they generate enough flavor to make it worth while? Should I just forget cherries and stick to raspberries? If I do cherries, should I pit the cherries or not? Michael Jackson says they don't pit the kriek cherries for kriek lambic, at least those that still use the original methods, but those are, of course, kriek cherries. Should I perhaps split the batch and try both? Any opinions on how much fruit per gallon? TIA for the collective interaction. -Grant Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/20/97, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96