HOMEBREW Digest #2447 Tue 24 June 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  CO2 saturation (Gary Knull)
  SUDS data expansion (Volt Computer)" <a-branro at MICROSOFT.com>
  Re. Peat Taste in Extract Brews ("Charles L. Ehlers")
  Dry Yeast Et Al ("Terry Tegner")
  Cheap Corny Kegs (chrome)
  Insulation for 15 gallon sanke kegs ( MARK J HAGEN)
  Malt Mill Musings (Doug Otto)
  Travel to the UK ("Susan J. Rankert")
  Affordable Conical Fermenter (Jimmy R Grubbs)
  Two Dogs, Lemon Brew (Niel Knudsen)
  C02 regulators leaking? (hardpipe)
  Bottle pasteurisation ("Terry Tegner")
  LUNAR RENDEZBREW IV (michael wiley)
  Moving refrigerators, problem solved! (George De Piro)
  Bottle Pasteurization & Sterile Filtering (Charlie Scandrett)
  Galley pumps as beer engines? (Mike Spinelli)
  batch sparge (Domenick Venezia)
  Re: Juggling (Chris Cooper)
  Dopplebocks (MCer1235)
  lacto follow-up (smurman)
  re: shipping beer (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
  Bavarian Weizen and temp. rests (Mike Spinelli)
  Re: Decoction Theories Put To Test (Scott Murman)
  Wits for judges (Kit Anderson)
  Re: Batch vs Fly (Cory Wright)
  Brewsletter Publishing (Randy Erickson)
  Motorizing MaltMill / AHA Conference ("Mike Kidulich")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 19:52:48 -0600 From: Gary Knull <gknull at gpu.srv.ualberta.ca> Subject: CO2 saturation "Dave Draper" <ddraper at utdallas.edu> wrote in #2440: >Bottom line: I don't believe supersaturation happens in practical >settings except under very local and very transitory conditions; it >is not a characteristic of "the system" of fermenting beer + CO2. I wish CO2 supersaturation was as transitory as you believe. My beers suffered from this problem for a number of years, 85 batches to be exact. Please refer to my letter in BT, Sept/Oct 1996, pg. 14, Trouble With Trubless Fermentations. My remedy was to leave the trub in all my worts, including lagers, but I could not understand why other home brewers were able to successfully ferment trubless worts while I couldn't. But the fact was that all my ferments became stuck due to CO2 saturation which then inhibited the normal operation of the yeast. Prior to leaving the trub in, I had been using a specific brand of yeast nutrient to provide nucleation sites so the CO2 could come out of solution. I didn't realize this at first, I just knew it worked and I supposed that the yeast needed nutrients. But, now I know that all-grain wort is not nutrient deficient. Neither would nutrient cause the stuck-ferment wort to instantly foam over. No, it was the multitude of nucleation sites suddenly provided by only that specific brand of nutrient that afforded the CO2 the opportunity to finally come out of the supersaturated wort in a most explosively dramatic way. I added small amounts of the nutrient every couple days so the foaming would not be TOO explosive. This problem plagued me from my first all-grain batch so I didn't know how the fermentation should proceed normally; working in relative isolation at the time, I supposed it was just an ornery quirk of all-grain brewing. It wasn't until my 85th batch that I gently swirled the carboy and had it blow the air lock off and foam all over for several minutes that I realized it was CO2 saturation. Leaving the trub in the wort has helped but has not been the complete solution. Others have suggested DE or SS scrubs in the beer; I believe from some of my experiments that these remedies will work but I'm looking in a different direction. I am still in the midst of a number of experiments to find a definitive answer and I'm starting to get a handle on it, finally. As Dave wrote, it may turn out to be a very local condition, but who knows how many others with stuck ferments caused by CO2 saturation have unwittingly developed this local condition in their brewery. Sorry, I don't want to say more than that until I'm sure about it; I already claimed leaving trub in the wort to be the answer and had to back away from that claim. CO2 Saturation is Alive and Well, for now. . . Gary Knull Edmonton, AB Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 1997 11:49:43 -0700 From: "Brander Roullett (Volt Computer)" <a-branro at MICROSOFT.com> Subject: SUDS data expansion I use SUDS 4.0c (i looked at suds97 beta, and i wasn't really impressed) and i like it. Brewers workshop is pretty good, but i still lean towards SUDS. but one thing bothers me about SUDS is the relativly limited selection of malt and extracts.. Has anyone expanded the malt and extracts databases? could i get pointers to a link to download or simply send me theirs? Brander (Badger) Roullett badger at nwlink.com a-branro at microsoft.com Homepage: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger Brewing: http://www.nwlink.com/~badger/badgbeer.html Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 08:55:27 -0500 From: "Charles L. Ehlers" <clehlers at flinthills.com> Subject: Re. Peat Taste in Extract Brews >Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 11:36:41 -0400 >From: "Lee Carpenter" <leec at redrose.net> >Subject: Peat Taste in Extract Brews >Fellow stir-doctors, >What is the best way to impart a natural peat taste in an extract beer? I >want to attempt a clone of S.A. Scotch Ale. >Lee C. Carpenter Lee, I've heard of two ways and have tried one. Either will work only if you're doing "intermediate brewing", using some specialty grains in along w/ the malt extract. WYeast makes a "Scottish Ale" yeast that helps to impart the taste you're looking for. I used that with 5lb. DME, 1lb. crystal malt, and 1/4lb. toasted (350 degrees F, 10 minutes before crushing) malt. It turned out nicely. I've also been told you can achieve the same effect by using peat-smoked malt. Someone else is going to have to help as to where you can find it. Good Luck! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 14:07:58 +0200 From: "Terry Tegner" <tegbrew at aztek.co.za> Subject: Dry Yeast Et Al i use a Whitbread dry yeast and had a similar experience to Tim, i.e. rapid fermentation of a 1050 brew down to 1020 and no further action, even though I waited another week. I bottled it and it was a fine , if a bit sweet, ale. Subsequent to this I acid washed the yeast and now it ferments down to 1008 with out any problems. The only other change was that I switched to aerating the wort with pure oxygen. Maybe we're back to insufficient wort aeration. Regards to all and please note my new mail address. Terence "Phail Ale " Tegner Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 21:33:14 GMT From: chrome at cts.nospam.com Subject: Cheap Corny Kegs In response to a thread that ran several weeks ago regarding the quest for reasonably priced cornelius kegs - I found a place that is selling pressure-tested, used 5 gallon stainless steel soda kegs with all new gaskets for $14.95. Here's the URL... http://www.brewgear.com Hope this helps... Chrome Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 19:31:13, -0500 From: QQMC27A at prodigy.com ( MARK J HAGEN) Subject: Insulation for 15 gallon sanke kegs A local homebrew supply owner mentioned to me that it would be nice to come up with some way of insulating the Sabco sparge/mash/boil kettles. I just remembered about some stuff, called FIBERFRAX, which might do the job. It is available through an aviation supply catalog and would not cost very much. The catalog description is as follows: "Fiberfrax is a new material made from washed ceramic fibers with binders added to form a lightweight, flexible asbestos-free insulation. Withstands temperatures to 2300 degrees F (two thousand three hundred). Avaiable in 24 inch wide rolls in 1/16 and 1/8 inch thicknesses." (I have used Fiberfrax to protect brake lines from the heat of brake linnings and rotors and have had very good success). Fiberfrax is white and is kind of like a stiff sheet of felt. It can be easily shaped or folded. A 24 inch width of material will reach from the bottom of a keg up to the handles. A length of approximately 4 and one half feet would be required to wrap the circumference of the keg. It could be held in place by wrapping with stainless steel safety wire or maybe even chicken wire. If the fiberfrax does not insulate as much as you would like, it would at least allow you to use other insulating methods over top of it, which wouldn't otherwise work against the bare kettle (ie: water heater jacket). Materials avaiable from: Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co. (800) 824-1930 Fiberfrax: 1/16 inch Part Number 970F $1.90 per lineal foot 1/8 inch Part Number 970J $3.00 per lineal foot Safety Wire .032 inch diameter 25 foot length Part number 01- 15725 $1.50 (note: 1995 prices) Any questions or comments welcome. Mark Hagen Wichita Falls, TX QQMC27A at Prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 17:11:41 -0700 From: Doug Otto <dotto at calweb.com> Subject: Malt Mill Musings Greetings While preparing to brew this morning I let my mind wander and it seems = to have paid off. I was standing there with the rolling pin in my hand = wondering why I hadn't had the roasted barley for my impending milk = stout crushed at the homebrew store. An idea popped into my head and = off I went to scale the shelves in my garage in search of my prize. = Finally on the top shelf, I found it - my old Atlas pasta machine. I = blew the dust off of it and went to work.=20 The unit has two steel rollers designed to roll pasta dough smooth and = flat. It's made entirely of chromed steel and has a detachable motor. = First step was roughing up the rollers so they would grip the grain and = full it through. I dug out a small file and had accomplished my task in = about 5 minutes. Time for a test run. I put a piece of foil on the counter to catch anything I crushed and = fired it up. I grabbed a handfull of roasted barley and dropped on the = rollers. One flick of the switch and Bingo! It was coming out the other = side with the husk intact and the kernel split. I was definitely on to = something. I removed the base plate, cut a whole in the top of an old bucket and = bolted the roller assembly in place. The only thing left was a hopper = for the top of the unit - an old coffee can cut down the center and a = slit in the middle and I'm now the proud owner of a roller mill. Total = time invested was about 45 minutes. I took my half pound of roasted barley dumped it in the hopper, flicked = the switch and 30 seconds later, it was all very nicely crushed. In the = immortal words of beer advocate Homer J. Simpson, "Woo Hoo." May your lapses into lucidity go as well for you as this one did for me. = Now, back to my pint of alt. Doug Otto Sacramento, Ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 1997 22:37:51 -0400 From: "Susan J. Rankert" <srankert at scnc.bas.k12.mi.us> Subject: Travel to the UK We have a trip to the UK coming up quickly, and it just dawned on me that I should post here for advice. Recommendations about any can't miss real ales and public houses would be be appreciated. We are going to be in the areas of London, Cornwall, Bath, northern Wales, and Oxford. Please reply by E-mail. Thanks in advance. Jeff Rankert srankert at scnc.bas.k12.mi.us Fenton Mi Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 14:14:41 -0400 From: jgrubbs732 at juno.com (Jimmy R Grubbs) Subject: Affordable Conical Fermenter To the distinguished collective: I recently purchased the "Affordable Conical Fermenter", advertised in Zymurgy and probably other places, and attempted my first batch therein. The batch was an extract ale, using 1 oz of hop pellets for the boil, 1/2 oz pellets for flavor, 1 oz whole hops for aroma and a teaspoon Irish moss. I cooled the wort to about 75 degrees with an immersion cooler and then transferred to the conical fermenter using a 'deep fryer' basket as a hop back and sieve type strainer in the funnel, which removed a lot of solid stuff. I immediately pitched the yeast. After several hours, I had the expected fairly deep layer of trub in the bottom of the cone, and was able to remove some of it by barely opening the valve. I then opened the valve fully and got an additional small amount, followed by thin wort, as if the wort had 'punched' through the layer of trub. Several more attempts with the valve only partially open helped, but I was never able to remove a satisfactory amount of trub. After the primary fermentation slowed I racked to a glass carboy and reverted to my old method. The conical concept is obviously a good one, but my first batch was not what I had hoped for, i.e. quick clean trub removal and no racking. My Question: Has anyone had experience with the Affordable Conical Fermenter, and if so do you have any advice on how to get the best results, especially with regard to trub removal. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Response by private e-mail or Digest posting will be fine. jrgrubbs at worldnet.att.net Jim Grubbs Newnan, GA e-mail or Digest Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 17:59:19 -0400 From: Niel Knudsen <Sly_Dog at compuserve.com> Subject: Two Dogs, Lemon Brew A few weeks ago, my wife went to our local liquor store to pick up a coup= le of sixes of our favorite commercial beer (Harpoon IPA). While she was there, she also picked up a six of Two Dogs Lemon Brew. "Hey!" she says, "I like this!, Can you brew something like this?" I tak= e a sip....Tastes like lemonade to me... "Hmmm....Let me see what I can throw together" I answer. So I did just that, I threw something together and it came out damned good...It's not beer, but hey!, it's quick and easy to make. Here's the reciepe: 2lbs Lite DME 1lb Corn Sugar 3lbs Honey 6 cans Frozen Lemonade Concentrate Boil 1.5 gallons of water. Add the DME and sugar. Boil for 10 minutes. Ad= d honey, boil for 1 minute. Chill wort and dilute to 5 gallons. Pitch yeas= t (I used my crappy, emergency dry yeast, I'm sure it doesn't matter) Ferment for 7 to 10 days in primary. Add Frozen Lemonade Concentrate to secondary and rack from primary. Let sit another 5 days. I kegged this batch and forced carbonated it. My wife really loves it, and I must admit, it's really refreshing on a hot summer day! Try it and let me know what you think. Niel Knudsen Danvers MA Sly_Dog at Compuserve.com Member: North Shore Brewers, Beverly MA = Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 1997 18:26:58 -0400 From: hardpipe at mail.harenet.com (hardpipe) Subject: C02 regulators leaking? i have a problem with a co2 system and was hoping someone could give me = some insight. i have had 3 tanks leak down to nothing but cannot find a = leak anywhere.i suspect the regulator. are these things sucseptible to = leaking and if so can they be rebuilt? having a hard time drinking my = homebrew this way. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:53:27 +0200 From: "Terry Tegner" <tegbrew at aztek.co.za> Subject: Bottle pasteurisation The commercial breweries that I have toured out here (In South Africa & Namibia) all use bottle pasteurisation of the finished product. The bottled of gassed beer is passed through showers of water at differing temps. The conveyer takes the beer through a warming shower and then through a pasteurising heat shower and finaly a cooling shower, all moving reasonably slowly. They don,t seem to have many damaged bottles from this process and I think that it is because nothing happens suddenly. I wouldn't personally drop a primed bottle of beer into boilling water for fear of an explosion, besides, I think that pasteurising takes place at about 72 C for 20 minutes or so. Regards Phail. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 04:04:06 -0500 From: michael wiley <mwiley at flash.net> Subject: LUNAR RENDEZBREW IV ATTENTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The 4th annual Lunar Rendezbrew Homebrewing Competition is quickly approaching!!! Hosted by the Bay Area Mashtronauts in the NASA area of Houston, this event is the celebration of space and brewing. Highlighted by the "PAPER AIRPLANE WARS," Sunday, the 20th of July will be a huge blowout! WE INCLUDE THIS YEAR A TASTING OF BEERS FROM LOCAL BREWPUBS, INTRODUCING THE SUDS FROM CLEAR LAKE'S NEWEST BREWPUB, THE BAY BREWERY. The brewing battles will be intense!! This year, we anticipate a large turnout, with the inclusion of CIDERS and the expanded categories in the MEAD categories. The entry deadline for our fest is Sat., July 12th, with awards and festivities taking place on Sunday, July 20th. For information, entry forms, and previous results, visit the Mashtronaut web site at http://www.ghgcorp.com/rlivingston..... If you have any questions regarding the competition or the festival, email me at: mwiley at flash.net WE LOOK FORWARD TO HEARING FROM YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:45:49 -0700 From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro) Subject: Moving refrigerators, problem solved! Hi all, I just wanted to write a quick note to thank the DOZENS of people that responded to my refrigerator question. I have never received that many responses to a question! A special thanks goes out to Mark Polnasek. His comprehensive list of possible causes and fixes provided the info I needed to fix the damn thing! Mark surmised that the most likely problem was that the thermostat was shot, and he was correct. By-passing the thermostat brought the compressor on-line! Hooray! Again, thanks to all, have fun! George De Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 1997 00:14:05 +1000 From: Charlie Scandrett <merino at squirrel.com.au> Subject: Bottle Pasteurization & Sterile Filtering Ken Schwartz writes >During the malta thread a few weeks ago, I had thought of Charlie Pappazian's >assertion that holding the bottles at such-and-such temperature for >such-and-such period would pasteurize the product (since there's lots of >sugar and no alcohol, malta's shelf life presumably is short without such >measures). Don't know if this is valid but my thought was that if the >product in the bottle (whatever it is) is carbonated, that heating would >drive off the CO2 form solution and overpressurize the bottle. This could >result in flying bottlecaps or exploding bottles. Any thoughts? and Arnaud Viez wrote >am I the only french homebrewer writing here? Probably, there are more Tasmanians! >I am studying the opportunity of the creation of a micro-brewery, brewing >english-type brands. Formidable, moi aussi! (means its hard work and I'm an Aussie) >We plan to bottle our beer, without refermentation, and so without adding >any yeast in the bottles. For the beer to have a comfortable shelf life, we >don't want to use pasteurization (sorry for this awful word, I won't do it >again), Louis Pasteur's work in brewing was extremely important, his name is up there with de Clerck, and pasteurization *is* an important process. > and we have been told that the use of sterile filters is very safe If you remember to pasteurize the filter apparatus! >and will avoid any contamination or instability of the bottled beer. >Is there anyone having information about that, or any opinion? Bottle pastuerization is a common industrial brewing practice in which beer is held in its package at 60C for about 20 minutes (it takes much longer to get to 20C and cool again). According to Boyle-Charles' Law pV/T = constant where T is measured in degrees absolute (K) where 0K is -273C. So the increase in CO2 pressure at 60C is only 1.22 times the pressure at 0C. So, put the bottles in 20C water and raise temp to 60C over 10 minutes and the beer wil reach 60C in about 20 minutes, hold 15-20 minutes, cool in 40C water for 5-10 minutes, 20C water for5-10 minutes, then tap water. This will accumulate about 8 PU. (Pasteurization Units-Yes, they metricated the poor bugger!) The bottle will take it, but will your beer? This has flavour disadvantages over "flash" pastuerization in which a stream of beer is held at 72-75C for a few seconds in a heat exchanger (=10PU). Luckily, with pastuerization, killing power doesn't equal cooking power(temp X time), so this flavour effect is minimal. However flash pastuerisation doesn't sterilise the bottle and cap and bottling machine, neither does sterile filtering (at nominal filter opening = 0.2 um), which can also strip some flavour. It is a toss up which is flavour preferable, filtering is cheaper! (though sometimes a dirty word-CAMRA!) The modern approach to the problem of package sterility is to purge air from the bottle with steam for about 1.5 seconds just before sealing at the filter head for counterpressure filling. This doesn't heat the bottle significantly (even noticibly) and kills all microbes and removes O2. This is applied to caps as well. This is a cheap modification to old counterpressure bottling equipment for lower O2 levels in the bottle.(cheaper than double pre-evacuation) In a cool climate, I would just "polish filter" at 5um and keep the beer cool, if you watch your sanitation and keep the pH down, bacteria take years to get a hold. Belgian commercial breweries have little problem with bottle conditioned beer coming all the way to Australia (remember India Pale Ale went to India in a sailboat in wooden kegs). In fact these beers arrive in much better shape here in Australia than sterile beers because yeast is a powerful metabolic reducer and fair oxygen scavenger. If this can be done, why not a small residue of invisible yeast in a non-bottle conditioned beer? ("non-conditioned" because no significant fermentation takes place). Sierra Nevada Brewing do this a bit more to create a slight layer of yeast that doesn't cause haze problems, but gives the impression of a natural, bottle conditioned beer, and preserves it. In Australia, Coopers put bottle conditioned beer on the back of a truck and send it across 2000k of desert to Darwin! Probably pasteurized on the way? A microbrewer can control the treatment of their beer by self-distributing. If the market is local, the costs are about the same as using a commercial distributor with some marketing advantages. Redhook Brewing does this, using refrigerated trucks, but it is illegal in some US states to self distribute, France? My advice Arnaud? 1/ Filter to 5um after cold conditioning ales for a week (or use finings). Some yeast will remain. 2/ Steam sterilise bottles and caps for 1.5 seconds. 3/ Buy a couple of old refrigerated milk delivery trucks and self distribute. Get to know your retailers and stress that this is a "live" fresh beer, something special to be treated with care.(insert appropriate French ambience here) 4/ Shelf life should be several months if all other stability processes are carried out. (FAN/polyphenol/lipid/pH control, & O2 exclusion from mash, whirlpool and packaging)(BTW steam blanketing works for O2 exclusion in mash and whirlpool prosesses too) Charlie (Brisbane, Australia) PS When it comes to building cheap micros out of a metal scrapyard with countryboy welding skills and a fistfull of cash, I can give a *lot* of offline advice! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 97 10:47:00 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: Galley pumps as beer engines? HBDers, Since Roy R. Rimmele is interetsed in home beer engines, I'll add some new info. I just heard. My local HB store, informs me that galley pumps used in motorboats are perfect to adapt as a beer engine. I guess they have the same design of pulling liquid up from below. I would guess it would be a cheaper alternative than the commercial beer engines. Mike Spinelli Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 08:05:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: batch sparge This was originally posted by Ron Price in HBD #1440, 03 June 1994. I've also reposted this before, but with the recent batch sparge thread it seems appropriate to post it again. Thanks Ron, how are you doing? Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com - ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 09:27:24 -0500 From: rprice at cbmse.nrl.navy.mil Subject: Mashout- In Domenick Venezia's post on Mashout he mentioned a three step sparge process that I use. A few years back I visited a couple of small breweries and several of the highland Scotch distilleries. In each they produced their beer (distillers just forget the hops), in a large lauter tun which had folding arms to stir the mash and a couple of very large water heaters on an upper level (all looked very similar so I assumed were produced by the same outfit). Following the mash schedule they would run in 170F water for the first sparge run, then pump this off through a chiller to the fermentation tanks, the second sparge was at a slightly higher temperature of 180F, and the gravity was dropping rapidly (like about 1.010 as I remember), then they did a very rapid final sparge at about 190 to get every last bit of sugar out of the mash. This was about 1.005 or so and was retained by pumping up to the holding tank, and while the next batch was mashed the water in the bulk tank cooled to about 170F where the process started again. I adopted the same three step system for my homebrewing setup, and I mash out by adding a small amount of simmering water to the mash to raise the temperature to 170F or so, then blend more of the simmering water with cold to make a 180F batch, which I sparge through, followed by another shot of the simmering water. I use a very short mash schedule (50-60 min.), and recirculate the first gallon or so of mash water, until the mash sets and the wort runs clear. Then I let the water level reach the grain bed, and begin adding the 180F water at that point. When the flow reduces and the bed begins to settle I add the 190F water and often I find that the gravity of the run off will take a jump. Tannins and silicates so far haven't been a problem with this technique, and I get excellent extraction rates. I am not sure if it is a Scottish thing to get every last gram of sugar from the mash, I was told that it aided in extracting all of the sugars from the mash and increasing the final gravity without over dillution of the wort. The owner and distiller at Glengoyne used this method and spent a long time covering his methods with me, he convinced me, and I have stuck with it. The microbrewery I visited was run by a couple of former distillery employees who may simply have used the same equipment and techniques by habit. But who is to argue with good booze and beer. As a final note, on that same trip at a brewery somewhere in the UK one bit of advice I remembered was that the pH and mash temps were critical to maintaining the malt character and mouth feel of the finished beer. Seems that they used higher temps (like about 155-158F) for short periods of time, at a pH of about 5.8. This they explained was to enhance the activity of the enzymes good at eating smaller sugars while leaving the longer chain sugars for your beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 12:53:01 -0400 From: Chris Cooper <ccooper at a2607cc.msr.hp.com> Subject: Re: Juggling Hi all! You ask how many home brewers are jugglers? Any body how can manage to mash, sparge, brew, rack last batch to secondary, bottle batch before that, clean kegs, sanitize bottles, cap and label, scrub dirty carboys and return the wifes kitchen to an acceptable post-brew level of cleanliness in one day is obviously a juggler!!! As a side note I also do attempt to juggle while helping my wife mind her store at the Michigan Reniasance Festival (my juggling is definitely not a headline act for the fair, and in fact barely tolerated by the official entertainment director, but then I do have a unique claim in that I am the only juggler/fool at the fair that can consistently juggle and drop all three balls at the same time !) Chris Cooper , Commerce Michigan --> Pine Haven Brewery <-- Chris_Cooper at hp.com --> aka. Deb's Kitchen <-- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 13:04:07 -0400 (EDT) From: MCer1235 at aol.com Subject: Dopplebocks Hi!! Has anyone out there in the collective made a partial-mash/extract dopplebock? Paulaner Salvator is the only beer that my wife has shown any interest in me replicating, she should have just asked for Rodenback Grand Cru. :) Since I don't have a temperature controled refrigerator, what would happen if I ferment it with an Ale yeast and then "lager" in the basement, at around 50F, for some extended time? What yeast would I use (Alt yeast? Scot yeast?)? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Rene' Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 10:19:19 -0700 From: smurman at best.com Subject: lacto follow-up Just wanted to follow-up on the lacto infestation problems I was worried about. A few people wrote to me stating that they had done lacto ferments many times and they had not experienced problems removing the lacto cultures from their equipment using iodophor or bleach. A couple of people noted that they wouldn't trust this to be the case with plastic or rubber though, and one person mentioned that he had experienced trouble with the pediococcus (sp?) bacteria being a resilient beastie. I think what initially caused my concern was some second-hand information I was given, and also a note in a recent article in Zymurgy about weisse beers where they mentioned it was desirable to maintain a second fermentation set-up for lacto ferments. As usual, it's best to be informed and make your own decisions, but I trust the folks here on the HBD more than I do Zymurgy. Then again, I'm still going to sour mash rather than try to initiate a mixed lacto-yeast fermentation. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 09:33:57 -0700 From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter at camasnet.com> Subject: re: shipping beer I received the following response to my inquiry with AHA regarding the beer shipping issue: >Dan, >For the past couple of years we have tried to get UPS to adopt a less >restrictive policy when it comes to homebrew for competitions, but so >far no luck. The problem lies with the fact that some states still don't >statutorily recognize homebrewing as a legal activity. >We are working on that front and at the same time have contacted other >shippers besides UPS to see if they would be more willing to work with >us. When you look at 4,000 entries in the NHC, plus all of the Club >Only's, plus all of the other sanctioned competitions, any shipper who >became the "official shipper" for AHA competitons could get a sizeable >chunk of business. But so far, no takers. We'll keep you informed of any >progress. >Until then, the best rule is to pack well and not disclose what's in the >box. >Thanks, >Jim - -- Jim Parker Director American Homebrewers Association (303) 447-0816 x 122 (voice) 736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 (fax) PO Box 1679 jim at aob.org (e-mail) Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info at aob.org (aob info) U.S.A. http://beertown.org (web) Dan Ritter <ritter at bitterroot.net> Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery - Hamilton, Montana Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 97 14:08:55 est From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli) Subject: Bavarian Weizen and temp. rests HBDers, I seem to recall a few months back some controversy over the 122F temp. rest vs. the 135F rest. Something about the 122F rest ruining the head or something? Anyway, if I'm making a weizen with the standard 60/40 split of readily availabl e U.S. pale and Weyermann german wheat malt, what would be the LEAST troublesome mash schedule to use, but still get a decent product? I believe the wheat needs some sort of protein rest, but am confused as to what's optimal. I don't wanna decoct and I only wanna do the temp. rests that are NEEDED for this type of malt. Are all these 40/50/60/etc./etc. programs overkill when using the highly modifi ed malts we can all get? Mike Spinelli Cherry Hill NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 11:33:07 -0700 From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: Decoction Theories Put To Test Rob Kienle discussed an alternative method of decoction mashing. I agree with Rob about decoctions as a way to manage temp. rests, but I don't think our technology gives us much of an advantage. As homebrewers, our main advantage comes because we're not mashing such large volumes and masses of grist. A lot of the traditional methods had to overcome the logistics of dealing with large volumes of thermally challenged grain and water. Anyway, I just wanted to comment that there is another way of playing this decoction game if you're not bound to tradition. The idea is to perform a single decoction, but to do it as a mini-mash which you start before your main mash. This would pseudo-technically be called an un-decoction I suppose. Start with say 1/2 or 2/3 of your grain bill and create a very thick mash, about 0.5 qt/lb. Bring this through your protein rests and sacc. rests, but *do not* start the rest of your mash yet. Before you're ready to boil your decoction, dough in the rest of your mash to whatever temperature you like, and use a very thin mash (the water from you mini un-decoction is mostly going to get boiled off so you'll be adding pure grain back to the mash tun). Then you boil your un-decoction for however long you want to park you "main mash" at whatever temperature you chose. Afterwards, add the un-decoction to the "main mash" to hit your next temp. rest, and proceed from there. This method has two main advantages. First, you have more control over how much grain you are boiling, and hence have better control over how much of a temperature increase you'll get when adding it to the main mash. The second benefit is that your main mash doesn't have to sit at a single temperature for an extreme amount of time. These seem to be the two main complaints about decoction mashing. The other complaint is that decoctions take a long time. Just think about those big, buxom, blonde German women sweating over a wooden paddle, stirring the hot mash in days of yore. That might help pass the time. Those who don't find sweaty buxom women attractive will have to find their own motivation. Sorry. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 14:54:48 -0400 From: Kit Anderson <kitridge at bigfoot.com> Subject: Wits for judges Jim Busch wrote; >Well there you have it! Kit wants to WIN RIBBONS, ;-) Sheesh and I >just want to be able to replicate Celis or Hoegaarden. Silly me. I have lost my quest for ribbons after the Sam Adams WHC last year when two unranked judges gave a 21 to a wit Greg Noonan scored 41 a few weeks earlier. Now I go for the 'poundability' factor. I swear my wit is closer to Celis when spices are added to secondary. - --- Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kitridge at bigfoot.com> I suppose that it's theoretically possible for a Yankee to make decent barbecue. But it sure ain't a pretty thought! -Smokey Pitts Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 15:08:15 -0500 From: Cory Wright <cwright at midcom.anza.com> Subject: Re: Batch vs Fly Ken Schwartz (KennyEddy at aol.com) writes: > Just where on God's Green Earth did the term "fly sparging" come from? I've had flies visit my brewery before, but I try like hell to keep them out of the sparge... > No, no, no. "Fly sparging" is not in reference to insects. It's a '70s throwback, meaning to sparge while wearing bell-bottomed polyester pants, platform shoes, and at least three large gold medallions. This is related to "Superfly sparging", which refers to sparging while wearing a purple and yellow fur-lined cape and matching polyester bell-bottomed jumpsuit, 7" platform boots, minimum of five gaudy oversized gold rings, three foot (diameter) afro, and the aforementioned gold meddallions. This is a very rare condition nowadays, and to be avoided more than even brewing in plaid. Cheers, Cory Wright cwright at midcom-inc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 15:07:24 -0700 From: Randy Erickson <randye at mid.org> Subject: Brewsletter Publishing Thanks to everyone who responded to my brewsletter question. My GroupWise took a major dump today (is that redundant?), so I haven't been able to thank you all personally yet. The overwhelming consensus was to keep it simple and use the word processor (WordPerfect and MSWord were specifically mentioned as more than adequate). After all, it isn't exactly, well, brewing science. Adam Fisher (can't decipher that e-mail address) mentioned that MS Publisher was very powerful, easy to use, and cheap; actually it comes free with certain HP printers, including the one I bought recently. The catch? Why Windows 95 of course. Not me, not yet, anyway. Thanks again all, and now I return you to your regularly scheduled description of the 'methode champagnoise'. Cheers -- Randy in Modesto "We will not support Windows 95 until sometime in '98" -- MID MIS Department. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 1997 20:25:39 -5 From: "Mike Kidulich" <mjkid at ix12.ix.netcom.com> Subject: Motorizing MaltMill / AHA Conference Greetings I am ending a long lurk mode with this query for all the mechanical types out there. I own a Schmidling MaltMill, which I would like to motorize. Towards this end, I have acquired a Dayton model 4Z613 motor. The specifications are as follows: 1/25 input motor hp F/L torque: 12 in/lbs full load rpm: 154 The motor requires an external capacitor, which I am tracking down now. Does this motor have the guts to power a MM? I am planning a belt drive system, to allow for slippage in the event of a jam. I would like to hear from anyone with experience in this area. Also, I will be attending the AHA Conference in July, and look forward to putting some faces with the names I see here all the time. See you in July! Mike Kidulich President Upstate New York Homebrewers Association mjkid at ix.netcom.com Return to table of contents
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