HOMEBREW Digest #2505 Fri 12 September 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Punkin beer / messy mash (Alex Flinsch)
  Breweries in Monterey ("Ian Wilson")
  Converting pre-boil SG to post-boil SG (Loren Crow)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  Fwd: Rob Moline and the Little Apple Debacle (Brewboy1)
  Hop prices (Miguel de Salas)
  Summary - fridge wont cool / mead request ("Keith Royster")
  New York State HB Laws (Gus)
  Re: Fridge won't get cold (Tidmarsh Major)
  Re: Bottle/Keg Alternative? (Jeff Renner)
  First mash (Wesley McDaniel)
  k&b alts, excess glass (haafbrau1)
  Roasting Already-Crushed Malt Take II / Gott Step Mashing (KennyEddy)
  Is it homebrew? ("Alan McKay")
  ice water immersion chiller (Jeff Sturman)
  Re: Entire Butt (cont'd) (Steve Jackson)
  Re:  GABF ("Brian M. Rezac")
  AHA BofA Minutes, AOB 990 (Jim Liddil)
  Russian rye bread beer (DoubleDDD)
  Iodine test (korz)
  Hop suppliers (korz)
  FWH, HSA (George J Fix)
  real homebrew? ("Bryan L. Gros")
  re:butt (Charles Burns)
  fridge dampness (Forrest Duddles)
  Sparge Volume Calculation ("Ian Wilson")
  RE: Stuck Stout ("Capt. Marc Battreall")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 16:32:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Alex Flinsch <well_of_latis at geocities.com> Subject: Re: Punkin beer / messy mash >Whether you gut a fresh pumpkin, or use canned pumpkin, the stuff is mostly >starch and MUST BE MASHED. If you're an extract-only brewer this can be >troublesome and is not recommended as a first foray into mashing. Pumpkin >mashes are messy. Mash with at least an equal weight of six-row (the extra >fraction of husk will aid in the sparge). A "protein rest" is useful. 122F >or 135F? (oh no) Perhaps our resident chemistry experts can expand on this >(remember -- it's pumpkin, not malted barley...). Very useful information. There is a way to make the pumpkin mash a little less messt, however. Do the mash inside of a hollowed out pumpkin. I have done this in the past and it works fairly well, and the cleanup is fairly easy, just dump the whole thing into the compost pile when done. Alex |http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/1366/ well_of_latis at www.geocities.com | Pagan Brewing Sparrowhawk at worldnet.att.net | /|\ on the web | / | \ Since 1997 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 21:48:51 -0700 From: "Ian Wilson" <ianw at sosinet.net> Subject: Breweries in Monterey I have to be in Monterey on business next week. Does anyone know of or can anyone recomend a brewery / brewpub or two to visit? Before the angry replies, I've checked the pub list sites and it would seem like awfully slim pickin's for a yuppie tourist location. Private email is OK. Ian Wilson ianw at sosinet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 00:15:29 -0500 From: crowld at rapidramp.net (Loren Crow) Subject: Converting pre-boil SG to post-boil SG Does anyone have a formula for predicting the SG of 6 gallons (post-boil) of wort on the basis of a pre-boil measurement? I don't like to take measurements after the boil, if I can help it, because of sanitation. Thanks! Loren ========================================================================== # Loren D. Crow, Ph.D. ++ Office Phone: (903) 927-3219 # # Department of Religion ++ Fax: (903) 938-8100 # # Wiley College ++ # # 711 Wiley Avenue ++ Email: crowld at rapidramp.net # # Marshall, TX 75670 ++ WWW: http://www.rapidramp.net/Users/crowld # ========================================================================== The unexamined life is not worth living. - Socrates Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 97 00:15:59 PDT From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report >From: KennyEddy at aol.com The Jethro Gump Report >Subject: Kiss My Entire Butt / 135 Rest >Sorry about the subject line -- couldn't resist. If you hadn't said it, someone else would have! ;-) > Just shows to go you how much things have changed in malt >processing since the "classics" we rely on so much were written. Will there >be a new "Textbook of Brewing" published before the millenium? You will be pleased to know that Siebel, I think, is working on a new "Practical Brewer," They asked on the IBS Forum for suggestions from the pro-brewers, as they intend to include a section on micro-brewing. >From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs at netcom.com> >Subject: GABF > >Does anyone know when the Great American Beer Festival starts this year >? October 2 - 4th. Thursday the 2nd from 4:30 -10 pm will be the Members Only Session, and Awards ceremony. >From: Greg_T._Smith at notes.pw.com >Subject: Bottle/Keg Alternative? > >I am planning a tailgate party in a couple of weeks. I am trying >to figure a way to get some homebrew there, but they do not allow >any bottles or kegs (which they consider to be anything under >pressure, eliminating mini-kegs, Party Pigs, and the like). Is >there any alternative left for me to use? Can't say that I've ever done it....(hmmmmmm), but I do know a fella that brought beer into a city park that didn't allow ETOH, by filling a 3 litre soda PET bottle with beer that matched the color of the original product. >From: Eric Tepe <tepee0 at chmcc.org> >Subject: polyclar question > > Will polyclar work if you chill your beer (to >below 40F) to get the chill haze to come out of solution or will it only >work while the haze causing compounds are in solution? I am confused by your question, but polyclar will work below 40 F, and it will precipitate the haze compounds in solution to the bottom of the vessel. Jeff Kenton asks about Dry Yeast Suppliers.... I know, I know, most folk's disagree with me on this, but (ahem) ..."My name is Jethro, and I have a problem". ..snif, snif.. I like dry yeast." Got nuthin' ag'in the wet stuff, but I recommend Lallemand products, distributed by Scott Labs in California....sold to the micro and some mega breweries, you'd be surprised to learn which mega's use it, I was told by the president of Lallemand, Jean Chagnon, when he visited the LABCO. No, he wouldn't tell me, as his agreement calls for non-disclosure. Whle I don't think that a 500 gram brick is what most homebrewers are after, I could see your HB shop owners getting some for those that might want to split a pack. Don't know what it costs at retail, but at least you wouldn't have to worry about underpitching, when you could pull 25 - 50 grams or so from a pack. Cheers! JG Rob Moline Brewer At Large brewer at ames.net "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 02:58:41 -0400 (EDT) From: Brewboy1 at aol.com Subject: Fwd: Rob Moline and the Little Apple Debacle - --------------------- Forwarded message: Subj: Rob Moline and the Little Apple Debacle Date: 97-09-10 02:52:14 EDT From: Brewboy1 To: homebrew at hdb.org Before I begin, let me apologize for the amount of bandwith this post may take. I hope you will allow me to "borrow" the space as what I have to say is VERY important. Yesterday, September 8th while scanning the brewing boards on AOL, I came across the following post: From: Bkkimbro at aol.com Hey folks. My name is Bret Kimbrough and I am the head brewer at the Little Apple Brewing Co. in Manhattan, KS. Last year, our brewery won the gold medal in the Barleywine Style Ale category at GABF. Since the recipe was that of the former head brewer, I don't plan to ever make this beer again, so I thought I would share the recipe with you. This is the seven barrel recipe, but I am sure you all can readily scale it down to the capacity of your home brewery. Again, this is not my recipe, so I can't answer questions which are too specific about it, but I will try to help you with it if I can. - -- lbs. Pale Ale Malt - --- lbs. 2 Row Malt - --- lbs. Caramel -- - -- oz. (Stuff) in the mash liquor We filter all of our brewing liquor. strike into --- bbl of 15? degree mash liquor due to a power failure during the mash, mash time was 2 hrs. in the boil: boil is 90 min. alpha acid content is not recorded for the hops. Sorry. I think the total alpha acids were in the high ?0' to low ?0's. ? lbs Some hops at 60 min. ?lbs Some hops at 60 min. Irish Moss at 15 minutes ? lbs. Some hops at end of boil Original gravity was --- plato Final gravity was --- plato I hope this works for you. Take care folks. -Bret Now, in the interest of not divulging Jethro's greatest recipe, I have omitted the actual numbers and hop varieties that Mr. Kimbrough posted to the boards. Trust me, the numbers he posted were the real deal. For those of you on AOL you will not see this post anymore as it has been removed from the brewing boards as well. However, IMO my Kimbrough has just committed one of the biggest SINS in the brewing world. I sent him the following email commenting on the nature of his post- Bret, This is just a short email to let you know that by posting the recipe for the Little Apple barleywine, you have just violated the unwritten code of ethics concerning brewing. Though I am not a friend of Mr. Moline's, I wish to express my anger over the posting of HIS gold medal winning recipe. This is not an issue for discussion. These things just do not happen. You do not publicly give away this information no matter what the circumstances may be. Perhaps, you should have thought about your brewing future before posting to the homebrew recipe board. While you may find favor from the homebrewing crowd for such a post, you will never win the respect of fellow brewers for selling out a great beer and fellow brewer. Your post does nothing and works only as a means of announcing to the world that you have taken the place of a very well respected brewer in the community. Next time you send out a press release, think about its ramifications. The brewers code is very seriously upheld and not something to play around with. If you feel I am being harsh, I can direct you to the brewers forum on AOL where we can gladly ask the other brewers about their opinions concerning this matter. I hope this incident doesn't haunt your future brewing endeavors. KARMA is a nasty thing to mess with! Wondering out loud, Tomme Arthur Now, I have been a long time reader of the HDB and I am well aware of the struggles of one Jethro Gump- friend of the program. This was the final straw in the proverbial hat and I have decided to lend my support to the cause even though I have never met Rob nor visited Kansas. For those of you in the land of the digest not familiar with Rob and his struggles I have two comments. First, where have you been and second, check the archives you'll be amazed at the crap he endured. No brewer should ever have to go through what he did. Most of you probably also understand the brewing code of ethics I described. Most if not all of us have brewing secrets and "information" that should not be shared with others no matter what the circumstances. This is one of those instances. Mr Kimbrough stood to gain nothing by his initial posting of the recipe. He used to the post to legitamize his hiring among the many homebrewers who subscribe to AOL. And, while the post has been retracted, the recipe is out there and now a matter of public record in brewing circles. Inevitably, the question that comes to mind is what should we do about this post and the individual who released it? Well, if you read Mr. Kimbrough's initial post, he states: "this is not my recipe, so I can't answer questions which are too specific about it, but I will try to help you with it if I can." Aha, that's seems so easy. Perhaps if I have reached the nerve I was hoping to reach, you see where I am going with this post. Mr. Kimbrough has actually invited each and everyone of us to ask questions about this beer. Personally, I should thank him for extending the invitation by taking him up on the offer, yet I think I already spoiled any chances with my first email. So, my suggestion to the entire HDB is to come up with some questions for Mr. Kimbrough since he has so graciously offered this recipe to the world. I should prompt those of you interested in this line of questioning to keep it simple since he he did say "this is not my recipe, so I can't answer questions which are too specific about it, but I will try to help you with it if I can." Once again, the address is bkkimbro at aol.com I have been giving this issue much thought and I believe some of the most appropriate questions might be along the following lines: 1.) What is a Barleywine? 2.) Why is it called Barleywine? 3.) What color is the Barleywine? 4.) How's it taste? My guess is we can all unite on this issue and help the Jethro cause once again. I have borrowed enough bandwith for now, Please, do what you feel is right, but at the very least send Rob some support. His address is brewer at ames.net And FOR ALL OF YOU WHO MISSED THE EARLIER ADDRESS OF MR. KIMBROUGH, IT IS bkkimbro at aol.com. I think his wife gets mail at this address as well so you might want to send her your condolences or love whichever you feel is most appropriate! Some people continue to amaze me, Tomme Arthur Head Brewer Pizza Port Brewery, Solana Beach CA. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 19:23:15 +1000 From: Miguel de Salas <mm_de at postoffice.utas.edu.au> Subject: Hop prices Lorne P. Franklin wrote: >In light of Jethro's report of 1997 hop crops being affected by blight and >the liklihood of prices rising, ya'll may want to stock up on supplies now >from Hoptech (800/dry-hops; http://www.hoptech.com/index.html). I don't know about US hops, but some European hops, especially Moravian Saaz from the Czeck Republic (arguably the best hop for pilseners) and some German and Polish hops have had the crop completely wiped out by the massive flooding during summer. I expect those prices to increase dramatically as well. Miguel. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:39:17 +0500 From: "Keith Royster" <keith at ays.net> Subject: Summary - fridge wont cool / mead request Thanks to everyone who responded to my problem of my new used fridge not cooling down very well. Since mine would actually cool a little, I was hoping that it was not a freon problem because those are difficult and expensive to fix, as many of you pointed out. Luckily, the solution seems to have been much simpler. Here is a brief summary of the suggestions I received, plus my solution: 1) Put something in the fridge for it to cool. They need a thermal mass to cool down, otherwise the thermostat will keep tripping itself and turning off too soon. 2) Clean the condensor coils. One guy reported that mice had built a nest in his and once he cleaned it the fridge was able to cool from about 60dF down to about 40dF. Mine need cleaning, but they aren't that bad. 3) Check the condensor fan. If the fan isn't blowing air across the coils, then they can't dissipate their heat very well. This seems to have been exactly my problem. There was a big wad of old insulation stuck in the fan blades. Once I removed it the fan ran fine. This morning my fridge had cooled from about 50dF to in the low 20's, plus a 2L plastic bottle of water in the freezer had become ice. Thanks so all of those that helped! Now I finally have one fridge to ferment/lager in and another to serve from. Now if I can just convince my wife to get me some taps for the new fridge for my birthday or Xmas. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- On another note, my father-in-law has honey connections in Orlando through his family citrus business. He got me about 11# of honey for free, so I'm interested in making my first mead. However, in a recent visit with Dave Burley (hey Dave! I enjoyed the visit!) he expressed concern that the orange blossom honey might have some strong flavors compared with the milder clover honey, so he suggested a sweet mead. Do any of you have any other suggestions or comments for a first time mead, specifically one made from orange blossom honey, as far as recipie suggestions go? Thanks! Keith Royster - Mooresville, North Carolina - "Where if the kudzu don't gitcha, the Baptists will!" email: keith at ays.net http://www.ays.net/brewmasters -Carolina BrewMasters club page http://www.ays.net/RIMS -My RIMS (rated COOL! by the Brewery) http://www.ays.net/movingbrews -pumps and accessories for advanced homebrewers Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:43:56 -0400 (EDT) From: Gus <buerkl at cooper.edu> Subject: New York State HB Laws I'm planning on starting a homebrew club here at The Cooper Union in Manhattan. I need to provide the authorities at school with all of the relevant state and city statutes regarding homebrewing. Also a possible concern (of theirs) is the non-profit status of an educational institution. Where can this information be found? In addition, if someone who has done this before could offer some advice, it would be a big help. Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:56:51 -0400 (EDT) From: Tidmarsh Major <tmajor at parallel.park.uga.edu> Subject: Re: Fridge won't get cold Kieth Royster asks about a used refrigerator that won't cool below 50F. My wife and I also bought a used refrigerator and found that it would get to about 35F in the winter (when the basement was at 50F) and down to about 55F in the summer (when the basement is about 70F). Have you cleaned the coils on the back or bottom? That can make some difference, though it didn't help us. Odds are that if it's cooling a little bit, it either has a constricted freon line or a slow freon leak (at least that's what the repairman who looked at ours said). The bad news: to test and fix that requires recovering all the freon from the sytem before pressure testing, which is about a $300 job here in Athens. Ours has kept at around 50F for almost 3 years now, which is fine for fermenting a lager, and not a bad return on a cheap 'fridge. Not long ago, someone on the HBD suggested letting a refrigerator sit for 24 hours before turning it on after moving it to allow the oils and coolant to settle. I don';t know if that will help you, but it couldn't hurt, and the price is right. Tidmarsh Major tmajor at parallel.park.uga.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:29:14 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Bottle/Keg Alternative? In Homebrew Digest #2503, Greg_T._Smith at notes.pw.com wrote: >I am planning a tailgate party in a couple of weeks. I am trying >to figure a way to get some homebrew there, but they do not allow >any bottles or kegs (which they consider to be anything under >pressure, eliminating mini-kegs, Party Pigs, and the like). Is >there any alternative left for me to use? I can't think of any, >but I am just wondering if there is any little trick I could try. >I hate resorting to buying canned beer, but if I must... at least >there are a few that are drinkable (if I can get my hands on them). How about a poly cube? These are heavy duty, semi-transparent flexible plastic cubes with a valve. Dave Line in his classic "Big Book of Brewing" describes their use, and an English brewing friend of mine uses 5 gallon cubes all the time for dispensing his bitter. (He's from the south and they hate frothy beer there). This would work great for low-carbonation styles such as bitter, and would probably work for short time transportation of higher carbonation styles as well. Back in the early 80's, microbrewing pioneer Bill Newman of Albany (NY) Brewing sold his beer in one gallon cubes. You could transfer carbonated beer from a keg or "keg" it in the cube with just a bit of priming sugar. Monitor it so it doesn't blow up. They collapse as you dispense beer, and lose carbonation if you keep them too long. I'm not sure where you can get these, but HB shops ought to help. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:01:36 -0500 (CDT) From: Wesley McDaniel <wmcdanie at marlin.utmb.edu> Subject: First mash Hello all! I am getting ready to do my first all-grail brew. My question is about the water. Is bottled spring water o.k. for British and American ales? If I use R.O. water, will I need to add burton water salts? TIA. - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Wesley McDaniel wesley.mcdaniel at utmb.edu University of Texas Medical Branch, Galveston - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:20:37 -0400 From: haafbrau1 at juno.com Subject: k&b alts, excess glass To the poster who can't bring bottles or kegs to the tailgate party- if no bottles is due to glass, how about 1-2 liter PET (plastic) bottles? Surely this must be better than buying canned 'beer'. Speaking of glass, I live in EHT, NJ, and I wish to decrease my 12-16 oz glass collection. I'm looking for a loving home, instead of recycling and/or returning to liquor store. Free to a good home, although a token homebrew or two wouldn't hurt. They need to be delabeled, etc..., but all have been thoroughly rinsed after use. If you don't know where/what EHT is, you probably live too far. Private e-mail preferred. Paul Haaf haafbrau1 at juno.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:47:55 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Roasting Already-Crushed Malt Take II / Gott Step Mashing I replied to Scott Murman's question about roasting already-crushed malt, and in the meantime I ran across something DeClerck wrote in his "Textbook of Brewing" that I thought was relevent: "An analogous principle to the production of pale crystal malt has been applied in a different way. Malt flour is heated to 120 - 130 C immediately in an "aromatizer". Heating malt flour in this way also increases mellowness of palate and increases head retention." (1994 printing, Vol 1, p. 244) While such flash-heating may be difficult to do at home, you could try pre-heating a cookie sheet (or two) in the oven at 250F (120C), then quickly spreading the crushed malt on the hot cookie sheet in a thin layer, promptly closing the door, and leaving in the oven for maybe 10 more minutes. ***** Rene' asks: "I would like to do 122F/155F, 122F/135F/155F and 135F/155F mashes in a Gott. What is the thickest I should mash in at the lower temperature (qt/pound)? and what is the thinest that I want my sach hold to be (qt/pound)? "In one of his books, Noonan talks about thicker mashes being better for lower temps and thiner ones for higher temps, is this correct?" 0.9 to 1.0 qt/lb is about as thick as you can go. The two-step mashes are pretty easy but the three-step mashes will require that (a) you have a large cooler and/or (b) you have a small amount of grain. There are a couple of programs (such as Suds and MashCalc, both available for download at The Brewery) that will help with the temperatures, but you have to "work backwards" from the final temperature if you want to specify the ending thickness. Another thing to tuck away for reference is that crushed grain will occupy about 0.8 gal/lb when mixed with mash water. That should help you determine whether your mash tun has enough capacity for the amount of grain & water you need. Thicker mashes are supposedly good for protein rests, wheil thinner mashes are better for saccharifiaction, so this works in your favor. However, too thin a mash can actually impede saccharification because the enzymes become too dilute. I seem to recall 2 qt/gal being about the top limit for mash thinness. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:51:28 -0400 From: "Alan McKay" <Alan.McKay.amckay at nt.com> Subject: Is it homebrew? John Bowen asks whether The Brew House kits are real homebrew. Well John, I think that's more of a philosophical question. I've made one of those kits, and a friend has made 2 of them. THey are most certainly excellent beer! Just like all-grain, but from a kit. What more could you ask for? And to top it off, you just dump and stir! No boiling, nothing. I even recommend these kits to people who want to make excellent beer in no time at all. However, I have to admit that when I drank the Brew House beer, I didn't really feel like I was drinking my own beer, and didn't feel like it was homebrew. Maybe that's because I've been all-grain for so long now, I don't know. Other friend's I've recommended the kits to say stuff like "well, it sounds good, but it doesn't seem like it's really making beer anymore". The the purest definition of the term, it is certainly homebrew. However, personally, I don't feel it really is. But that's not going to stop me from making another one next time I get low on beer, and want to make a really quick batch! :-) -Alan - -- Alan McKay Nortel Enterprise Networks Norstar / Companion / Monterey Operations PC Support Prime Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:06:49 -0700 From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Sturman) Subject: ice water immersion chiller I brewed a demonstration batch of extract IPA in front of the shop last weekend for the benefit of the curious would-be brewers. It was a success, but I had one problem that I did eventually solve and I thought the experience might be of use to someone out there. I did not have ready access to running water so I did all my sanitizing in several hdpe buckets. No problem. But how to run the immersion wort chiller was another thing. I ended up putting 16 # of ice into a 54 quart cooler (my hot liquor tank) and then 6 gallons of cold tap water. I ran this through the chiller at full flow which took about 22 minutes. Wort was still too hot and about half the ice had melted. I poured 6 more gallons of cold tap water into the hot liquor tank and ran about 4 gallons of that through the chiller in about 15 minutes, at which time the wort felt right. I dumped the wort into the carboy where the fermometer read 68 F for exactly 5 gallons of wort. My wort chiller is home made from 50 ft of 3/8" copper tubing molded into two coils, one inside the other. So if you're brewing without running water, hopefully these numbers will help. jeff casper, wy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:00:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve Jackson <stevejackson at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: Entire Butt (cont'd) In HBD No. 2503, Michael J. Brown wrote: >>>Thanks to Jonas, Charley, Randy, Mark, Paul, and Tom, I confirmed the meaning of the Entire part, in relation to Porter ale, and brewing. However, no clear definition has come to light in regards to the "Butt" portion of the equation! Pardon my French, I just don't seem to get the connection in relationship to the use of the word "Butt" in this context. Where's the Oxford English Dictionary when you need it? TTYAL, ILBCNU!<<< As I mentioned in my post on the question initially, "butt" has several meanings, one of which is "a large cask, esp. for wine, beer or water" (Webster's Ninth Collegiate). Incidentally, this was also a measure equivalent to 108 Imperial gallons. As to the origins of the word, it's Middle English (Chaucer-type English), came into use about the 14th century (probably fell out of use in the 19th), and is descended from the Middle French "botte" and the Late Latin "buttis." -Steve _____________________________________________________________________ Sent by RocketMail. Get your free e-mail at http://www.rocketmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 10:29:01 -0600 From: "Brian M. Rezac" <brian at aob.org> Subject: Re: GABF > Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 09:06:57 -0600 (MDT) > From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs at netcom.com> > Subject: GABF > > Does anyone know when the Great American Beer Festival starts this year ? > > Cheers > Ian Smith > isrs at rela.uucp.netcom.com Ian, This year's Great American Beer Festival runs from Thursday, October 2nd through Saturday, October 4th. All the information you could want can be found at the AOB's website at <http://beertown.org/gabfframeset.htm>. Please note that the Members-Only Tasting is on Thursday night along with the Awards Ceremony. Hope to see everyone there! - Brian Brian Rezac Administrator American Homebrewers Association (303) 447-0816 x 121 (voice) 736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 (fax) PO Box 1679 brian at aob.org (e-mail) Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info at aob.org (aob info) U.S.A. http://beertown.org (web) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:32:04 -0700 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: AHA BofA Minutes, AOB 990 I was wondering if anyone knows when the AHA BofA minutes to the meeting at the AHA conference will be appearing in print or on the net? It's been a few months now. :-) Also has anyone gotten the AOB 1996 990 Form? Or will the AOB be putting it up on their web site? I'd like to think that they would be willing to do this rather than have me go to the IRS once again. :-) Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:46:02 -0400 (EDT) From: DoubleDDD at aol.com Subject: Russian rye bread beer Greetings beer lovers, I have a friend named Theo who lives in Eureka, Ca. who brought back from Russia a bottle of "beer" fermented from rye bread. It was very light bodied, and fruity with a low alcohol content. It tasted good too. Very drinkable. Does anyone out there in homebrew land have a recipie for this? Any info at all would be apreciated. Email is prefered: DoubleDDD at aol.com Thanks Don Dickinson Santa Rosa, Ca Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:57:14 -0500 (CDT) From: korz at xnet.com Subject: Iodine test Laura's post reminded me of Dave's suggestion: >3) Conversion - "try modified iodine test. Boil a teaspoon or so of mash - >including the grains - in the microwave for a minute or so to free up any >starch. Squeeze the grains between two spoons and test the liquid with >iodine. Reddish is OK and is negative for starch, blue-black or darker is >positive for starch and you need longer mashing, perhaps." I still contend that this is a bad idea (no, Dave, I don't automatically disagree with all your un-traditional procedures). I've explained this once before... I'll try again. All the starch that's in a typical malt kernel is not necessarily accessable to your mash. The percentage that is depends mostly on modification, quality, and crush (but there are tradeoffs: there are negatives for excessive crush which have been covered in HBD in the past). When you boil the grain, you could extract starch that would not be accessable to your mash liquor if you hadn't boiled it (this is why decoction mashing gives slightly more yield than infusion mashing). Note that in decoction mashing, you do *not* boil the grain in the last decoction (the one that takes you to mashout) but rather you boil runnings (no grain). This is because the boiling can liberate some starch (actually, a mashout temp over 180F (I believe) can also liberate starch) and because this is at mashout, there will be no enzymes to convert your starch to sugargs/dextrins. So, if you are doing an infusion mash, but boiling your samples for the iodine test (which, incidentally, I never do anymore... I know by time and intuition) can liberate starch that you simply can't get at in the mashtun. Why would you want to boil the sample anyway? Don't you simply want to know if the starch that was released to the liquor was converted or is there still some in solution? For that, just take a sample of the liquid part of your mash and test for starch. Simple! Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:12:09 -0500 (CDT) From: korz at xnet.com Subject: Hop suppliers I'd like to put in a plug for my favourite (homebrew-sized) hop supplier: Freshops! (If you're buying 50# or more of one variety, then I'd go with HopUnion... HopUnion also has pellets in quantities as small as 11#). http://www.freshops.com sales at freshops.com 1-800-460-6925 NOTE: quantities of 8oz or less are vacuum-packed in oxygen-barrier bags. For larger quantities of one hop, make sure you order some oxygen-barrier bags. They work great with those seal-a-meal sealers you can get for $19 at houseware and discount stores. No, I'm not affiliated with them in any way other than being a satisfied customer. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 97 14:22:07 -0500 From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) Subject: FWH, HSA I do not believe it is useful to draw conclusions about FWH (or any other procedure for that matter) based on a single isolated batch. There are simply too many confounding issues (age and quality of the ingredients, the recipe used, ....). The only way to get a real measure of how this procedure plays out for any given brewer is through comparative batches, which was exactly what was done in the original Brauwelt study. I found in my test brews that there was not a big difference in the intensity of the hop aroma for FWH compared to late hopping, however there was a clear preference among the people who gave us input for the quality of the aroma of the FWH beers compared to the late hopped versions. The flavoring issue appears to be more complicated. While the majority of homebrewers who helped do the evaluation preferred the flavoring of the FWH beers, there was a minority who preferred beers that didn't use either FWH or late hopping. As far as I can tell these people tend to be hop adverse, i.e., they tend to react negatively once the hop flavors (good or bad) get much beyond the minimum acceptable for a particular beer style. As I understand it FWH hopped beers did very well in the '97 nationals, and Zymurgy is apparently going to do an article on this. The Kolsch that I entered and which won used FWH, and I feel they played a key role. The commercial beer in this style that I most admire is the one brewed by Kurfursten in Bonn. Unfortunately, it is completely out of category as far as the AHA guidelines are concerned. (The same is true for most the top versions brewed in Koeln). E.g., it has an OE of 12.5P (1.050) and BU = 32 mg/l. Since none of these beers are imported to the US, judges generally have only the AHA guidelines to go on. As a result I made a conscious decision to brew down my beloved Furfursten model to assure it would be taken seriously. It was vastly inferior to the real thing, but I feel the FWH did recapture at least part of the complexity I recall from my visits to Bonn. It may well be that HSA is a non-issue for everyday homebrew as some have contented. However, as long as the nationals are done during the hot summer months with a nontrivial time difference between the 1st and 2nd rounds, I conjecture it is a major factor in this fray. In fact, I conjecture (totally without proof!) that it is more important than bacteria, wild yeast, and/or variability in judging for explaining major differences between 1st and 2nd round evaluations. Believe me, I have found this out the hard way! Cheers, George Fix Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:59:39 -0700 From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros at bigfoot.com> Subject: real homebrew? John wrote: >From: "John R. Bowen" <jbowen at primary.net> >Subject: Is it a Homebrew? > >I have a philosophical conundrum. As an experiment, I am brewing a >prepared wort kit from The Brew House. I purchased a strong fully >ready wort (sp. g. about 1.075) that I diluted to 1.048. It is >prehopped and preboiled--just add water, salts and yeast. What could >be simpler? > >Is this a real Homebrew? Yes, I'm watching it ferment at home, and ... I'd vote yes. This is just like any other extract beer with hopped extract. If you win any ribbons, you should gloat in making an excellent beer with so little effort. Let us know how the beer turns out--these kits look like great beginning kits, but I've never tried a beer made with one. BTW, I'd recommend boiling the water you add to try to kill any wild yeast or bacteria present. - Bryan gros at bigfoot.com Oakland, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 97 15:52 PDT From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns) Subject: re:butt Dr Brown continues to ask about our Butt(s) in hbd 2503. The Butt part of Entire-Butt just refers to the storage medium. Here's the URL for Webster's online dictionary: http://www.m-w.com/netdict.htm Butt returned a dozen entries, here's #3: Main Entry: 3butt Function: noun Etymology: Middle English, from Middle French botte, from Old Provencal bota, from Late Latin buttis Date: 14th century 1 : a large cask especially for wine, beer, or water 2 : any of various units of liquid capacity; especially : a measure equal to 108 imperial gallons (491 liters) Charley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:44:47 -0400 (EDT) From: Forrest Duddles <duddles at Imbecile.kzoo.edu> Subject: fridge dampness Greetings fellow brewers, I have been using "Damp Rid" with good success in my chest freezer-turned-keg fridge. Damp Rid is a clever container within a container filled with calcium chloride crystals (dessicant). Water will collect in the outer container and may be poured off every week or two. Eventually the crystals dissolve and you replace the whole thing. I have been using this stuff since I bought my freezer this past April and am still have about 60% of the crystals although they are beginning to fuse together. I bought mine at my local grocery store. It is sold as a means to dry out musty closets or damp basements. Hope this helps, ...Forrest - --------------------- Forrest Duddles duddles at Imbecile.kzoo.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 20:24:22 -0700 From: "Ian Wilson" <ianw at sosinet.net> Subject: Sparge Volume Calculation This is a question directed at the collective: In designing a recipe, I determine the following: Grain bill weight 16lbs Final Volume 9 gallons Total volume of water based on Ray Daniels work sheet from "Designing Great Beers" 16 gallons Mash in at 1.33 gal/lb 5.3 gal Of the remaining 10.7 gallons of water to put 9 gallons in the fermenter, how much of this should be assigned to sparge volume? Obviously, sparging with 10.7 gallons is rediculous. The remaining volume will be added to the boil kettle. So, what say you O Sages of the Mashing Fork? Are there any Rules of Thumb for the sparge volume? Ian Wilson Ianw at sosinet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 23:30:07 -0400 From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman at reefnet.com> Subject: RE: Stuck Stout After 12 days in the primary I racked it to a secondary, there was less than one inch of sediment and I had a S.G. of 1.028. The flavor is very good, not noticeably sweet and a nice coffee aftertaste. The temperature during this fermentation was between 76-80 degree F. My initial thought is that the temp during fermentation may be a littlehigh. Will this amount of Malto-Dextrine cause the beer to finish with this high a S.G.? Any suggestions out there would be appreciated. I am planning to bottle once I think this beer is finished doing its thing. I don't want to experience my first exploding bottles! Greg, I would say that this beer has more than likely finished. To be sure, wait a few days and do another gravity check. The SG readings for this type of beer is not unreasonable. To heck with your instincts, trust your hydrometer! Good luck and enjoy it, it sounds delightful. Marc - ---------------------------------------- Capt. Marc D. Battreall batman at reefnet.com \\|// (o o) =========oOO==(_)==OOo=========== Beer is proof that there is a God Ben Franklin Return to table of contents
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