HOMEBREW Digest #2512 Tue 23 September 1997

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  RE:  Reverse Osmosis Water ("Kris Jacobs")
  LABCO Legal Banter ("Jay Spies")
  Re: pantyhose beer (Mark T A Nesdoly)
  Re: homebrew club liability ("Joel Plutchak")
  yeast sludge and kegging ("Anton Verhulst")
  2nd Annual Music City Brew-off (Steve)
  Home-Made RO Water (KennyEddy)
  RE:  Full volume boil and hop utilization (Danny Breidenbach)
  HBD Meeting at GABF (Alpinessj)
  Little Apple Brewing Company ("A.S. Tomb")
  Newcastle & Brown Sugar (OCaball299)
  steam generators ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
  BJCP Study Guide/ Plastic Quick-Connects (Wade Hutchison)
  Little Apple Brewery (Norm Pyle)
  Color as calculated vs. real in glass ("Michel J. Brown")
  St. Louis Micro/Pico Brewery ("Ernst, Joseph G.")
  Keg Conversions (David Root)
  More HBD at GBDF, Hazelnut Porter (Mark Tumarkin)
  Beer Stores (john woolsey)
  Preparing Yeast culture media ??? (Jim Wallace)
  RO units 101 (Gary Knull)
  BJCP Exam Study (Peter M Garofalo)
  RE: homebrew club liabiity ("Neil E. Okamoto")
  half full carboys for aerating (Mike Allred)
  Wyeast's pLambic Blend -- Which bacteria does it contain? (Jean-Sebastien and Melanie)
  Little Apple Brewing (Rick Olivo)
  Yeast shock (Jeff Renner)
  Pantyhose etc. (aquinn)
  Peach State Brewoff results (egross)
  Fermentation Temp Profiles (Charlie Scandrett)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:52:27 +0000 From: "Kris Jacobs" <jtsnake at serv01.net-link.net> Subject: RE: Reverse Osmosis Water Scott Bridges wrote: > > Speaking of RO water, I saw a home RO set up in the local home > improvement store (Lowe's, my home away from home). It was about $200 > bucks. I don't recall the manufacturer. Anyone familiar with these > kinds of units? How good are they really? My water is really high in > carbonates, which makes it less than optimal brewing water. I use an > under-sink filter now, but I know I'm still off the temporary hardness > chart. I have to acidify the #%&$ out of my brewing water. If it > really does take all the ions out of the water, I'd consider buying it. > In addition to having better brewing water (can anybody say "pilsner?"), > it would get rid of all that chalky-lookin' stuff (calcium carbonate?) > that deposits on and corrodes my plumbing fixtures. Anybody use one of > these, or know how they operate? > > TIA, > Scott I am getting an under-the-sink RO unit Monday morning. I just had to replace the water softener in my apartment building. I got a few bids, and ended up forking over the $3000 for a Kinetico water conditioner. We have got the best water now outta the tap ever. In speaking with my local Kinetico dealer, he said that they _rent_ Kinetico RO units, too. (Right when he saw my Culligan water cooler... ;) My ground water is hard as hell & full of iron -- I made a batch shortly after the old water softener failed and the mash water turned the color of amber ale once it got hot -- yuk! I am looking forward to brewing Monday nite with some High Quality water. If you're gonna go RO, I wouldn't get an el-cheapo from Lowe's. The Kinetico RO is $1000 for an outright buy -- I am renting mine for 20 bucks a month, and I am responsible for changing filters. It would be 25 bucks a month to have my dealer's guys do it. I am not affiliated with Kinetico in anyway other than being a very impressed and happy customer. Check 'em out -- it's worth having good water: http://www.kinetico.com Kris Jacobs JPA Mash Works Galesburg, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:16:06 +0000 From: "Jay Spies" <spiesjl at mda.state.md.us> Subject: LABCO Legal Banter All - There has been much discussion recently centered around the "ownership" of Rob's BW recipie, and its subsequent posting on the internet. Since several legal threads have surfaced, I thought that I would chime in with my .02, being a lawyer. The question of who owns the intellectual property rights to the BW recipie depends greatly *when* that recipie was made. If it was made on Little Apple time, using Little Apple facilities and workspace, etc., then Mr. Loeb(?) does in fact own the recipie. (Bear in mind that I still strongly feel that he is a prick of herculean proportions, and has absolutely no business conducting brewing of any sort). If however, the recipie was formulated on Rob's own time (at home, or otherwise) then HE owns it. The fact that Little Apple brewed the recipie in its brewery using Rob's recipie does not convert its ownership. All things being equal, I'm betting that being the gentleman that he is, Rob will be content to let this issue go to its final resting place. Sorry for the bandwidth, but I just wanted to weigh in. BTW, boycott away on Little Apple. I hope they go under. Also, thanks for the many responses I received to my post about 10-gallon Gott coolers. I just ordered 2 from Wal-Mart online (www.wal-mart.com) if anyone is interested. Brew away . . . Jay Spies Return to table of contents
Date-warning: Date header was inserted by mail.usask.ca From: Mark T A Nesdoly <mtn290 at mail.usask.ca> Subject: Re: pantyhose beer Al Korzonas warns against the use of pantyhose for a hop bag in HBD #2510. I've extensively used pantyhose as a hop bag, but for dry hopping in a corny keg only. I'd tend to agree that actually boiling the pantyhose would release some dye into the wort, but I suppose that you could avoid that by buying undyed pantyhose. My fiancee assures me that such a thing exists, so you should be able to find it. - -- Mark [And I haven't noticed any off-flavours or dye in the beers that I dry-hopped using this methpodjsfpkdsj afkdfmksv ;las fklz;' xckA dfSS>KDfgklsjs .,SDVF;KSJSDKN.V,.ksdgjgklx vnvm, Why am I naked in front of the computer? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 09:45:41 -0500 From: "Joel Plutchak" <joel at bolt.atmos.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: homebrew club liability In HBD #2510, John Landreman <jlandrem at atmel.com> asks about personal liability for homebrew club members/officers, and specifically mentions a waiver and incorporation. Our club here has been talking about it for awhile, and I've looked into the mechanics (not the legal aspects) of the situation just a bit. My tenuous understanding is that a waiver is worth roughly the same amount as the ink that's used to sign it (though we did add a disclaimer to our membership form this year much like the competition judge waiver). I also found that it costs $50 to incorporate (in IL), and $150 to apply for non-profit status from the IRS. For a small club like ours, that's a pretty hefty chunk of our budget. In short, I'm extremely interested in hearing more about both the legal and tax ramifications of running a homebrew club. - -- Joel Plutchak Boneyard Union of Zymurgical Zealots (B.U.Z.Z.) Champaign, Illinois Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:17:54 -0400 From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: yeast sludge and kegging >Survey Said: Only issue is possibility of sediment. A yeasty beer or >two was tolerable to some, not others. Simplest advice - rack when >primary is clear, make sure to leave sediment behind - i.e. don't get >greedy for that last bit of green beer out of the primary and end up >getting sludge! I hate wasting any beer - I worked hard to make it. I too rack into the keg when the primary is pretty clear and am careful not to pick up any sediment. I then take the remains from the fermenter, store it in a pot that will fit in the fridge, and let it settle for a few days. With a small diameter hose, I then transfer the beer into a 2 liter soda bottle, attach a "Carbonator", force carbonate, and serve. I've recovered as much as 3 liters of beer from a 10 gallon batch this way. - --Tony V Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 10:28:14 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve <JOHNSONS at UANSV5.VANDERBILT.EDU> Subject: 2nd Annual Music City Brew-off Apparently in our post earlier about the 2nd Annual Music City Brew-off on October 25, our server spit out a minor error in our address for our webpage: The correct URL for our webpage and information about the competition should be: http://theporch.com/~homebrew1 Sorry for any inconvenience this may have caused anyone! Steve Johnson, Pres Music City Brewers Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:00:16 -0400 (EDT) From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Home-Made RO Water Scott Bridges asked about the $200 RO water filters for home use. Using RO water for brewing (and usually adding salts) is a great way to control the quality of the most abundant ingredient in your beer -- water. But for my money, I'll spend 20 minutes at lunchtime driving to the local casa de agua and filling my two 5-gallon plastic carboys with RO water for 30 cents a gallon. Since I use about 10 gallons of brewing water per brew, it would take me 67 batches to start to see "return" on a $200 investment. Another potential shortcoming with RO filters is that they only produce a few gallons a day. You'll have to process & store your water for a couple days leading up to brewday. I know of one HBD-frequenter who uses a home RO filter, and I assume there must be others; maybe they could comment on their experiences. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:20:20 -0400 From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreidenbach at nctm.org> Subject: RE: Full volume boil and hop utilization The URL to the hop FAQ gave me more than I bargained for, personally. Getting back to Jeff's original question though, to which I can relate, how about a qualitative, rule-of-thumb kind of answer to the question: how much should I adjust hopping when doing a full boil as opposed to the partial boil usually associated with extract brewing? Speaking as a homebrewer who would dream of a 122 degree rest, and who rarely checks S.G., I'd simply like to know *about* how much to fudge things so an old favorite extract/partial boil recipe doesn't totally knock my socks off with hoppiness when I attempt an all-grain/full boil version. Whatever happened to seat o' the pants brewing, anyway? - --Danny Boy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 12:42:46 -0400 (EDT) From: Alpinessj at aol.com Subject: HBD Meeting at GABF I think that is a great idea. As, for the place, I found a good one last night - The Falling Rock, in LoDo, about a block away from Coors Field. KROC - Keg Ran Out Homebrew Club had a meeting there last night. The owner/mgr of the place is a really nice guy (unlike the owner of LABC), the place is new and he needs the business, it is big enough for a LARGE crowd (Two stories, plus outdoor patio), and (best for last) has 69 TAPS!!! (no bud-coor-millors). If you are not sold yet, one of the taps is Anchor Old Foghorn which they serve in PINTS FOR $3.50!!! Someone mentioned a time of Thursday, Oct 2nd at 8:00 pm. Sound good to me. Now, how do we reach a consensus? Do we want to vote? If so, a "YEAH for Falling Rock" would do in your normal postings (we don't want a repeat of the BT thread with Falling Rock). If we decide on Falling Rock, I will post directions and phone number later. Cheers, Scott Jackson Denver, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 11:48:34 -0500 (CDT) From: "A.S. Tomb" <astomb at ksu.edu> Subject: Little Apple Brewing Company Greetings Homebrewers: I have read with interest and even amusement what has been written about the Little Apple Brewing Company, the barleywine and LABC's former brewer, Rob Moline. At first I found it interesting what people would write who had strong feelings and little information, but then it turned nasty, cluttered the mailbox of a former student and even suggested a boycott of my favorite watering hole. This thread no longer serves the purpose of the HBD. There are two sides to the story. I have been a frequent visitor at the Little Apple Brewing Co for over two years. I know and like Rob Moline. He is an excellent craft brewer who was able to turn out consistently fine beer under less than ideal conditions. He is extremely knowledgable about brewing craft beer. Rob was very generous to share things with me as I started to homebrew. I am glad he never kept count of the the questions I asked. He was good for the "hombrewing community" of Manhattan, Kansas. I miss him and his family and I am probably going to miss his beers too. I was very sad to see him leave, but I was sadder still to see the way that he left. I think he let his frustrations and anger with the manager cloud his judgement. He took the awards that were won by the brewery while he was the brewer, cancelled the brewery's entries to the GABF and was disruptive as he removed his personal property from the bar and brewery. There has been anger, frustration and wrong doing on both sides. We could have lost the brewery in this flap. I am thankful that the management of the Little Apple Brewing Company has chosen to continue the brewing of craft beer. The new brewer Bret Kimbrough, who was trained by Rob Moline, has two of his beers on line ( a wheat and a IPA) and several in conditioning. The beer is slightly different but still very good. The pale ale is thinner and will not hold up the stout. I am looking forward to his changes. I think that calls for a boycott from a 1,000 miles away by a person who has never set foot in our brewpub and who does not understand the complexities of this situation is an over reaction at best.(If you never set foot in Kansas, it will not bother me.) I think that the name calling and cluttering of a student's mailbox are very wrong it should stop. It is time to move on. Rob has. We have at the bar. Spencer Tomb Homebrewer Continuing Patron of the Little Apple Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:22:07 -0400 (EDT) From: OCaball299 at aol.com Subject: Newcastle & Brown Sugar Dear collective, First and foremost I would like to thank those of you who have responded to my queestion about maintaing Lager temps in summer. I'll let you know what I decide to do, but since I live in the Chicago area, I might just wait 10 minutes to let the weather change. Secondly, I have another question. Below is a recipe I found, I think in the Cats Meow... for a newcastle extract clone. I have a friend who has reviewed it and suggests I reduce the Chocolate amount and add Brown Sugar. I also have another source who says that Brown Sugar is BAD for homebrew and would substitute Molasses... I would appreciate any input anyone can provide. I would like to make this batch soon. ***************************************** Brown Ale Classification: brown ale, Newcastle clone, extract Source: Horacio Lertora (NHOMEBREW at ids.net), r.c.b, 5/15/96 This is very similar to Newcastle. Ingredients: 1 can Munton's Plain Amber Malt Extract 3.3 lbs 2 lbs. Munton's Plain Light Dry Malt Extract 1 lb. Crushed Grain Mix (1/2 50 L Crystal & 1/2 Chocolate) 2 oz. Willamette Whole Flower Hops 4.9% Prime with 3/4 cup Corn Sugar 1 teaspoon irish moss 1/2 way thru boil WYeast #1028 London Ale or RTP English Ale Yeast Procedure: Steep grain until boiling, remove - add extracts - bring to boil, drop in hops for entire 45 min. boil (irish moss 25 min. into boil) 2 weeks fermentation. 2 weeks bottled. All at room temp. Specifics: O.G. 1.046 F.G. 1.015 ***************************************** TIA Omar Caballero - Aurora, IL "Today is only yesterday's tommorrow" - Uriah Heep (So have another Homebrew) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:34:49 -0500 From: "MICHAEL L. TEED" <MS08653 at msbg.med.ge.com> Subject: steam generators .int homebrew at hbd.org Can someone direct me to any web sites related to using steam generators for mashing? I recall some discussions in the past and would be interested in checking them out. TIA. Mike Teed Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:45:01 -0400 From: Wade Hutchison <whutchis at bucknell.edu> Subject: BJCP Study Guide/ Plastic Quick-Connects > >Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 11:32:30 -0400 (EDT) >From: "Randy A. Shreve" <rashreve at interpath.com> >Subject: WANTED: A step by step BJCP study guide > >Fellow beer lovers: > >At a recent meeting of the Carolina BrewMasters in Charlotte, NC, I was >discussing >preparation for the BJCP exam with a fellow member. He had recently taken >the test >with less than stellar results (I haven't taken the plunge yet myself!). > >Tim had a great idea: a step by step study guide is needed! I have seen >the BJCP What about the article in the May-August Brewing Techniques - the author presented a study guide, and some essay advice. Check it out. > >Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 12:02:31 -0500 >From: djt2 at po.cwru.edu (Dennis J. Templeton) >Subject: US Plastics for valves, connects, fittings > >Two queries asked for sources of plastic valves and quick disconnects. A >fine source is US Plastics; 1-800-537-9724. If it's plastic, they have it. > >Dennis I just got a catalog at work from Omega Engineering "New Horizon's in Fluid Handling Special ed. vol 16, No. 2. " which has a full line of Thermoplastic Couplings (in PolySulfone, which is listed as repeated autoclave capable, chemical resistant and designed for food and beverage serving, good for 100 psi (!) up to 280 F). These are available in sizes from 3/8" up to 3/4" with NPT or hose-barb fittings or Garden Hose connections in 3/4". Fittings average $10.00 for the body and $6.00 for the insert, and come in full flow or shut-off versions. I intend to pick some up for the RIMS system that I'm working on. Omega can be reached at 1-800-826-6342, and takes Visa/MC. Call, and I believe that they'll send you catalogs for free (we certainly get enough of them around here for nothing) Omega also sells thermocouples, pressure guages, termostats, PID controllers, you name it in sensors, they sell it. -----wade whutchis at bucknell.edu Wade Hutchison, College Engineer Bucknell University, College of Engineering http://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~whutchis Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 14:23:53 -0600 From: Norm Pyle <normanp at gr.hp.com> Subject: Little Apple Brewery I haven't posted to the HBD in quite some time, but I just had to comment on this Little Apple fiasco. During the initial research for my Brewing Techniques column on Little Apple (written by Curt Schroeder) I heard stories about the GM at Little Apple. Frankly, at the time, I thought they were overblown. After the recent HBD posting, it has become crystal clear that what I heard at the time was politely filtered to avoid revealing the true nature of this guy. His online tirade proved to me that Rob Moline, at the time, was biting his lip to keep from telling us what he really thought, and is, IMO, a true gentleman. Rob was revealed to me as a very good brewer, a hard worker, and ingenious in his ability to turn a non- existant budget (controlled by guess who?) into a gem of a brewpub. I wish him well in his new life. As for Little Apple, as hard as Curt and I worked on that article, I can actually say I'm sorry it is in print with my name associated with it. At least Rob was shown in a good light, which is something he deserves. Sorry to litter the HBD with this non-brewing subject matter. Cheers, Norm norm_pyle at bigfoot.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 04:13:53 -0700 From: "Michel J. Brown" <hommade at spiritone.com> Subject: Color as calculated vs. real in glass I just got my English Brown Ale ready for consumption, and noticed that it seems a bit lighter than you would have expected, given the grain bill.The SRM (calculated) was supposed to be 16.9, a coppery amber color. Yet it appears to be about the color of a light English mild, around 10-12 SRM IMHO. The IBU's were spot on at 20.6, and the beer tastes great, just paler than what you would think given that I added 1/4# of C120, 1/4# of CaraMunich, and 3/4# of Victory and Aromatic (each) to 8# of DWC Pale Ale. I even boiled for 90 minutes, so as to improve melanoidin production, yet still I feel that it might be a bit darker than what I actually got. Btw, the Entire Firken Butt Porter turned out awesomely, albeit a tad darker for a Brown Porter (yeah, I know, but I don't like two threads!) at 45.2 SRM (dark, but clear). Any ideas on what gives with the Brown Ale? TTYAL, God Bless, and ILBCNU! Dr. Michel J. Brown, D.C. homemade at spiritone.com http://www.spiritone.com/~homemade/index.html "Big Man don't drink no stinking light beer!" "Big Man drink beer what got BIG TASTE!" Big Man Brewing (R) 1996 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 15:53:29 -0500 From: "Ernst, Joseph G." <ernstjg at Maritz.com> Subject: St. Louis Micro/Pico Brewery Eric Schoville writes: > I am on business in St. Louis. I've tried Morgan Street >Brewery (Average Beer, Great Food) and the Taproom (Good-Excellent >Beer, Good Food). Any other recommendations? I am certainly not a beer expert, but I have had very good beer and food at Trailhead Brewing Co. They are located in St. Charles on Riverside drive (about 15 minutes from the airport). I think the beer at the Taproom is superior, but not by a large margin. Joe Ernst ernstjg at maritz.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:30:23 -0400 From: David Root <droot at concentric.net> Subject: Keg Conversions I am a welder, and I don't use bulkhead fittings. I just drilled a hole in the bottom above the seam, and used pipe fittings and flat washers. Then I can take it apart for cleaning If i want to. A Plasma cutter is the only way to go to cut the top out of a keg. Less than 5 minutes for 2 kegs. Should cost the shops minum charge or some homebrew. Be sure to leave the beer in the keg or put some water in to avoid spatter stuck inside the keg. David Root Lockport NY droot at concentric.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 19:52:46 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <tumarkin at mindspring.com> Subject: More HBD at GBDF, Hazelnut Porter Hi all, I have been talking to Ken Schwartz about options for a HBD meeting at the GABF, we have been tossing several options around, including the possibility of meeting at my hotel room if the local brew-pubs were too crowded. Brian Rezac of the AHA has also emailed me about this. He and Jim Parker have come up with a terrific option. I won't say more about it until he let's me know if he wants to post about it himself, or have me forward on his idea. One of us will post about it shortly. In reference to the flack the AHA has taken here in the past, I would agree with Brian's post in response to Dave Draper's concerns about the AHA style standards - give them a chance. It is a new group of people, and Brian (at least) is interested and responsive. Obviously, by looking at his posts, he reads and participates in the HBD - both in his official capacity and also as a homebrewer. He has responded to my recent question concerning what catagory to enter my "hoppy porter". Obviously I also have concerns about style catagories and would like to see some changes. The ideal thing would be to have the AHA folks be both active homebrewers and responsive to our concerns - so far Brian seems to fit the bill. - ------- On another more directly brewing-oriented note, a while back I had posted concerning a batch of Hazelnut Porter I had made. I had used a hazelnut extract and was unhappy about the results. There was too much of a sweet "extract" flavor. It was drinkable, but not terrific. It was bottled in June of 1996. Most of it was consumed (or I must admit that I gave away a fair amount of it at X-mas in some mixed sampler sixpack gifts). Well, I had a few bottles sitting at the back of the fridge and hadn't had any for a long while. Last night I pulled one out. What a pleasant surprise. Aging for over a year had taken all the "extract" taste away. It now has a very pleasing nutty flavor with a woody character that was extremely nice. I should say it "had" a pleasing flavor because I've already finished the last couple of bottles and wish I had more! This was one beer that extended aging really improved. Mark Tumarkin The Brewery in the Jungle Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:17:50 -0500 From: john woolsey <woolz at arn.net> Subject: Beer Stores I will be in Denver for the GABF and would like to find out if a local could tell me where a good liquor store to find rare brews is located. Close to downtown? I would like to find some lambic. Private email ok. cheers Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:40:39 -0500 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: Preparing Yeast culture media ??? Looking for help from the yeast ranchers out there... I have been culturing my own yeast for a while now but am still having a major problem in preparing the media. It seems when I prepare the agar and pour it into the tubes or petri dishes I get a LOT of condensation. I prepare the media in a pressure cooker and leave the caps cracked open 1/4-1/2 a turn but the condensation never goes away. the dishes are even worse even though I let the agar cool down to a point where I can easily hold it before I pour. What do others do to eliminate this problem. ___________________________________________ JIM WALLACE ... jwallace at crocker.com www.crocker.com/~jwallace ___________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 20:10:39 -0600 From: Gary Knull <gknull at gpu.srv.ualberta.ca> Subject: RO units 101 Scott wrote, >Speaking of RO water, I saw a home RO set up in the local home >improvement store (Lowe's, my home away from home). It was about $200 >bucks. I don't recall the manufacturer. Anyone familiar with these >kinds of units? How good are they really? My water is really high in >carbonates, which makes it less than optimal brewing water. I use an >under-sink filter now, but I know I'm still off the temporary hardness >chart. I have to acidify the #%&$ out of my brewing water. If it >really does take all the ions out of the water, I'd consider buying it. >In addition to having better brewing water (can anybody say "pilsner?"), >it would get rid of all that chalky-lookin' stuff (calcium carbonate?) >that deposits on and corrodes my plumbing fixtures. Anybody use one of >these, or know how they operate? 1. A whole-house RO unit to save your pipes would be prohibitively expensive. Forget that. 2. RO filters use a semi-permeable membrane through which water is forced under pressure. Pure water passes through the membrane while the dissolved and particulate materials are left behind. This material is constantly washed away by a flow of water that goes to the sewer, called reject water. The amount of reject water is 70 - 90 % of the feed water; you only get 10 - 30 % as product water. This is one reason it would be expensive to have a whole-house system. 3. RO membranes are damaged by chlorine and by feedwater temperatures above 80F and by hydrogen sulfide, and by pH not within the range for the membrane. Salts, hardness, iron, etc., in the water will foul the membrane. You will need a charcoal filter to take out the chlorine, then a water softener to take out the minerals. RO membranes are made to take out the sodium introduced by the water softener (they are often called desalination systems). 4. Unless you're going to collect water for brewing over a period of hours, you'll need a more powerful unit than the under-sink $200 variety. I have a 100 gallon per day unit (and a 12 gallon collection tank) that can nicely keep up with my four-batches-per-day brewing streaks plus all other household drinking needs. The larger units have a pump that forces the water through the membrane at about 200 lbs pressure and is more efficient, ie. produces purer water, than the under sink units which depend on city water pressure to operate. 5. Brace yourself. Sell the skiddoo or boat or something and shell out $500 for a water softener and $3000 for the industrial RO unit. 6. You might just decide that, unless you have more money than you know what to do with, acidifying your water is not too bad an idea. I used acid myself for years, 30% suphuric or 80% phoshporic depending on the beer style. Then you should have a pH meter to get accurate results, but pH meters look cheap after this. Gary Knull Edmonton, Alberta Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 00:07:00 EDT From: pgarofalo at juno.com (Peter M Garofalo) Subject: BJCP Exam Study Randy Shreve wites, in HBD #2510: > a great idea: a step by step study guide is needed! I have seen >the BJCP study guide available on the net. Yes, such an *outline* exists: refer to Scott Bickham's article, "Master the Essentials of Beer Evaluation--How to Prepare for and Pass the BJCP Exam" in the May-August 1997 issue of Brewing Techniques (Vol. 5, Number 3). Scott is eminently qualified to offer study advice, as he is the one who is responsible for putting the exam together. The BJCP study guide is currently being re-written, with input from some of the finest judges and brewers in the country. Peter Garofalo BJCP Exam Committee member Syracuse, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 02:13:11 -0700 From: "Neil E. Okamoto" <neilo at hooked.net> Subject: RE: homebrew club liabiity > There was an article in the Summer 1995 issue of Zymurgy that discussed > incorporating your club as a non-profit corporation. By doing this, the > corporation can be sued but in most cases the individual officers can not. Are you sure about this? My recollection from my fraternity days is that the officers could (and likely would) be named in any action against the chapter house. I don't remember non-profit status having any bearing one way or the other. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 08:38:56 -0600 From: Mike Allred <mballred at xmission.com> Subject: half full carboys for aerating FWIW, I tried something last night that worked very well. I have always had a problem with getting enough oxygen into my wort. Last night I racked a 5 gallon batch from my brew pot equally into two carboys. The half full carboys are a lot lighter (hence I can stand to shake them longer) and I have a lot more air to mix with (verses the very small bubble that I usually have with a full carboy). After about 2 minutes of shaking the carboy was = =BE full with foam and wort. I pitched my starter evenly between them and 7 hours latter I they were both bubbling away nicely. I racked the wort from one carboy into the other one and was able to leave behind the cold break from one (another bonus since most of my break material was in the second carboy). This is the most effective way of aerating wort without pumps and oxygen tanks that I have come across. Of course I am always open to a better way if you know of one. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 14:16:34 -0400 From: Jean-Sebastien and Melanie <jsm-mv at geocities.com> Subject: Wyeast's pLambic Blend -- Which bacteria does it contain? I'm getting ready to age some barleywine in a french oak cask (I'm ordering it on Monday), and I'd like to add a lactic/sour character to it. My plan is to culture up a Wyeast pLambic blend and add it to the cask. Hopefully the bacteria will impregnate the wood and I can simply re-use this cask whenever I want to sour some beer (most of my porters, stouts, old ales, and barleywines). My questions are, which bacteria/yeast are in Wyeast's pLambic blend? Which by-products/flavors can I expect besides Lactic Acid? How long does the Wyeast pLambic inoculated beer need to be aged? Thanks, js. - -- Jean-Sebastien and Melanie <mailto:jsm-mv at geocities.com> Personal Home Page <http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/5603/> "Our Homebrewery, Award Winning Recipes, & Technical References" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 16:42:23 -0500 From: Rick Olivo <ashpress at win.bright.net> Subject: Little Apple Brewing This is a copy of an e-mail I have sent to the owner of Little Apple Brewing. As you may know, the new head brewer of this firm recently posted on AOL a recipe created by the former head brewer, without his permission. I believe this community should unite in our disapproval of this whole shabby affair, the particulars of which have been a matter of some discussion at this venue in recent days. I read with dismay your words about homebrewers who use the internet, and in particular the Home Brew Digest. Your intemperate remarks, your appalling arrogance and the obnoxious manner in general with which you stated your case strikes me as being extremely insulting and insures that I will never visit your place of business, and I will actively do all in my power to inform all of my friends that it would be in their best interests to do likewise. You talk about the nature of business; many of your points are quite correct. However, there seems to be one small point you seemed to have missed. My father, an independent businessman himself, once told me one of the most important things in business was "never shit in your own nest." In otherwords, never insult the customers who keep you in business. With your utterly insensitive remarks to the home brewing community that uses HBD you have done just that. You are quite right. It is a free country. In a free country, customers vote with their feet. When they walk away from your place of business, perhaps you will understand the magnitude of your error. As for Rob's ownership of the recipies he has come up with; I suggest you more closely study the laws regarding intellectual property. Unless you had a specific agreement with the gentleman, explicitly spelling out this matter, I suspect you may be in for a rather rude shock. As far as his awards, monetary and otherwise being the property of the business, in law, you may be correct, but it strikes me as being rather "Scroogelike" (not to mention unprofessional) to usurp credit for another man's work. As, I may add, is the posting of Mr. Moline's recipie. Clearly this is an act that is beyond the pale. Theft is theft, and the theft of intellectual property no less than physical property. I am a writer. I make my living with the words I wrtie. I work very hard to produce a salable product, and I take umbrage when someone uses the results of my creative abilities without my permission. I see no difference in the instant case; ordinary decency requires you to seek the permission of a creator before using his creation for your own ends. I shake my head at this whole sordid affair, which is as contempable as any I have seen in a very long time. I feel you have done the entire craft beer movement a distinct disservice. Rick Olivo/aka Strange Brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 21:00:51 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Yeast shock A cautionary tale: I guess I thought it couldn't happen to me. I live a good life. I love my wife and kids. I vote in all primary and general elections. I brush after every meal. But it did happen. Oh, the shame of it. Shocked yeast! It all began when I saved 600 ml of a German lager yeast from the primary of a CAP under 300 ml beer at 38F. After 6 weeks it still smelled good, so I took half of it and added 500 ml wort plus yeast nutrient in a gallon jug at 70F. After 6 hours it was foamy. After 24 hours, it was still foamy, so I put it in the fridge for two days until I brewed (8 gallons of Munchner dunkel), then pitched it in 52F wort. I usually expect low kraeusen 24 hrs after pitching this amount of yeast, but even after 60 hrs, I got only a bubble or two with vigorous swirling of the carboys. I must have shocked the yeast by dropping it from 70F to 40F over only a few hours. Fortuunately, I still had the remaining 300 ml yeast, so I pitched it, and after 24 hours had low kraeusen, and 6 hours later, high kraeusen. I'm a little concerned about what might have been growing in my wort while I was waiting for the yeast to take off, but hey, whatcha gonna do? So, I guess the moral of the story is, don't drop the temperature of your yeast too fast (I've heard 10F in 24 hours). I'd played fast and loose with this before and hadn't had trouble, but it caught up with me. Perhaps the yeast was weakened by the lost dormancy. Hope the dunkel turns out OK. Jeff -=-=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "I have found that alcohol taken in sufficient quantity produces all the effects of drunkenness." Oscar Wilde (1854-1900), Irish author, playwright and wit. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:20:54 +0000 From: aquinn at postoffice.worldnet.att.net Subject: Pantyhose etc. On : Wed, 17 Sep 1997 14:13:14 -0500 (CDT) korz at xnet.com discussed > Subject: pantyhose beer 8< clip This could bring a whole new meaning to the "entire butt" thread. Cheers Tony Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 00:35:01 -0400 (EDT) From: egross at emory.edu Subject: Peach State Brewoff results 170 entries, 7 canceled-at-the-last-minute judges,2 no-show judges,half the stewards flaked/spazed/forgot/blew us off. still,we persevered.The winners please: AHA category, winners followed by subcategory of winning beer 1 1. joe merlino, athens,ga (1A) 2. evan kraus, atlanta (1B) 3. gary michel, orlando,fl(1B) 2/3 1. lawton gafford,smyrna,ga(2E) 2. o.ogletree/p.eckloff,watkinsville,ga (3C) 3. evan kraus (2F) 4 1. brian buckowski,smyrna,ga (4D) 2. tom comkowycz,rex,ga (4A) 3. john allen, alpharetta,ga (4A) 5 1. john allen (5B) 2. david pappas, ocoee,fl (5B) 3. jim suggs,locust grove,ga (5B) 6/24 1. david pappas (6A) 2. gary michel (24A) 3. john allen (6A) 7/8 1. chuck jones,roswell,ga (7C) 2. tyler freeman,whitwell,tn (7C) 3. gary michel again (7A) 9 1. evan kraus (9A) 2. david pappas (9A) 3. brian buckowski (9B) 10 1. steve vallancourt,ocoee,fl (10B) 2. chris bishop,harrisburg,nc (10A) 3. paul patino,winder,ga (10A) 11 1. david feldman,atlanta (11D) 2. ann swenson,athens,ga (11E) 3. tad seyler,athens,ga (11) 12/13/17/18 1. r.wampler/k.mccrae,hampton,ga (17A) 2. d+p.waltman,atlanta (13A) 3. mike moulton,mableton,ga (12A) 15 1. brian travis, lawrenceville,ga (15B) 2. evan kraus (15C) 3. chris terenzi (15C) 16 1. brian travis (16D) 2. r+j.mason,atlanta (16C) 3. del price, doraville,ga (16E) 19 1. paul patino (19D) 2. brian buckowski (19B) 3. jim suggs (19B) 21/22 1. d+p.waltman (21A) 2. tom moore, covington,ga (22A) 3. gary michel (22A) 23 1. brian buckowski (23B) 2. nancy sampson,orlando,fl (23B) 3. barry browne,atlanta (23A) 25-27 1. lee,atlanta (27B) 2. stuart thurmond,kennesaw,ga (27A) 3. gary michel (26B) BOS 1. steve vallencourt,ocoee,fl (10B) 2. lee,atlanta,(27B) 3. john allen,alpharetta,ga (5B) thank you to all the wonderful judges,especially to those who drove far and those who judged on friday evening as well, thanx to the great stewards,thanx to the other organizer, chris terenzi, thanx to steve and the crew at john harvard's brewhouse , thanx to all the entrants,thank you especially for those that stayed to clean up,rich and janine mason deserve special mention there,thanx to jim griggers for helping me load my car before it got towed by the evil valet dude across the street,thanx to david pappas for a fun conversation about the results for the PSBO and the central florida homebrewers.congratulations to all the winners. expect ribbons and score sheets in about two weeks. lee Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 15:19:00 +1000 From: Charlie Scandrett <merino at squirrel.com.au> Subject: Fermentation Temp Profiles Dave Draper asks "If an ale has its primary fermentation temp controlled by the fridge, say at 68F/20C, until gravity is only a couple of points above terminal, and I then rack to a second fermentor that goes to a warmer place (indoors, max 80F/27C), will I lose the advantages I gained by primary-fermenting at 68/20? Will there be enough yeast activity occurring in the second fermentor to throw esters and other high-temp fermentation byproducts that were the reason I got a fridge in the first place?" The short answer is NO, you will improve your beer. (usually) The long answer is a post on Esters that I am preparing. However the basics of fermentation profiles is on record. During the vigorous *growth* phase of primary fermentation, yeast produce as byproducts: Alcohols, Esters, Diacetyl (ketones), Aldehydes (different ones to alcohol precursors and staling products), as well as Sulphurous and Phenolic volatiles. Two important fermentation byproducts, diacetyl and acetaldehyde, are metabolically broken down by yeast when the useful carbohydrates begin to run out. This phase is what has been termed "secondary fermentation". Also, during secondary, volatiles like esters, sulphur compounds and phenolics are scrubbed out by CO2 evolution. Because this process is slower than primary fermentation, many commercial breweries adopt a cold fermentation-warm maturation profile in order to shorten ageing times and get a more vigorous CO2 evolution for scrubbing. These unwanted compounds are the byproducts of *growth* and will not be significantly produced during secondary. For lagers in Germany, this is typically Pitch at 6C, raise to 9C over 2 days, drop trub & dead yeast, hold at 9C for 2 days, raise to 12C over 2 days, drop yeast, hold for 4 days warm maturation (until diacetyl < 0.1 mg/litre). Then crash cool to -1C for 10 days. For ales in the UK, this is typically Pitch at 16C, let rise to 19C over 3 days, hold at 22C for a day, and crash cool to 2C for a week. The other function of traditional secondary maturation is sedimentation of colloidal matter. This is best done at reduced temperature and pH. For a homebrewing or commercial bottle conditioner, this can be finished off in the bottle as they will have sediment anyway. For a filtering and counterpressure-filling brewer, the warm secondary phase of a few days needs to be followed by a week at close to 0C temperatures, perhaps two weeks for lagers. With warm secondary fermentation, there is no need for an extended cold lagering of months, any further reduction of green beer flavours of diacetyl and acetaldehyde would need laboratory analysis to notice as they would already be well below flavour thresholds.. Ther are also cold primary-cold secondary profiles used, (including with krausen), as well as warm primary (sometimes under pressure)-cold secondary, and cold primary-accelerated secondary( a two day rest at 24C for lagers!) profiles. It is important to realise that all methods work if you can monitor the compounds that you are trying to control, there is no correct method, different brewers are using different process levers. That said, a simple and reliable profile would be, pitching 2-5C below ideal primary temperature, then letting the metabolic heat of fermentation raise the temp to the ideal target over a day or so, then holding till 90% of the apparent attenuation limit, then raising 5-7C for 2 days, followed by a week reduced to near 2C. This will work very well for most yeasts and produce clean tasting beer. Charlie (Brisbane, Australia) Return to table of contents
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