HOMEBREW Digest #2602 Tue 06 January 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  New Product for SIPHON STARTING (Steve Altimari)
  Removal of JS from the Digest (mthouse)
  Hit the Road, Jack (ArchStanton)
  Take Jack Off? (AlannnnT)
  220 in US homes-Brad McMahon (AlannnnT)
  Re: Thermometer in cooler side (Jim Wallace)
  Kilkenny Anyone? ("Gregg Soh")
  Second all-grain brew and newbie questions (John Hessling)
  homebrew cooking - Tuscan chicken (smurman)
  RE:Food Grade containers ("John Lifer, jr")
  Nope ("David R. Burley")
  Big RIMS (Randy Lee)
  Censorship (Homebrew Digest)
  Re: Scotmalt (Jeff Renner)
  Zapap improvements (Jeff Renner)
  1998 Boston Homebrew Competition (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580)
  Re: MIXMASHER  vs RIMS (rust1d)
  alcohol limitation programs (kathy)
  Boiling Over!! ("Jeffrey M. Kenton")
  Converting 10 Gallon Gott to a RIMS ("Lee, Ken")
  RE: Mixmasher (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Mixmasher (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Give Schmidling a free HBD membership! (Samuel Mize)
  Allergic Reaction to Beer (William D Gladden )
  MixMasher (KennyEddy)
  Bottle Labels (KennyEddy)
  RE: GET RID OF HIM (LaBorde, Ronald)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 13:26:33 -0800 From: Steve Altimari <vllybrew at inreach.com> Subject: New Product for SIPHON STARTING Fellow Siphon Starters, I have seen many threads recently about various methods for siphon starting for racking and transfer purposes. I recently ran across a real nice product I would reccommend to any brewer. I am the head/only brewer at a brewpub but still manage to get some home brewing in on the side. I recently have the oppurtunity to try out a new product on the market called interestingly enough "CARBOYTAP". This is not a commercial promotion nor am I in any way financially associated with Fermentap the manufacturer. I just liked the product. The product is built around using a standard racking cane that most homebrewers have. You supply the racking cane. Basically you take your standard 3/8" racking cane, remove the little red nipple and replace it with a small fitted disc. The disc forms the piston of the transfer system. You then push the disc into a plastic cylinder which has a fitted top which slides down to seal the cylinder. The bottom of the cylinder is fitted with a removable plug which functions like the red nipple on the traditional racking cane. (Keeps sediment and yeast from entering the transfer, it actually does it more effectively since it is slightly taller than the old red nipple). The product works by starting with the racking arm/disc assembly at the top of the cylinder, inserting the cylinder into the transfer fluid then simply pushing down on the racking arm the length of the cylinder to force the fluid up the racking cane and into the next vessel. A simple one stroke movement. It is designed to fit even the smaller opening on the standard 5 gal. glass carboy. Sanitation is a breeze, just mix up a solution of your favorite sanitizer (I use peracetic acid or Iodophor) pump the solution through the cylinder/racking tube/transfer hose a few times and your ready to go. You could also use the system as a thief for sampling specific gravity during various process points during brewing. The phone number I have for Fermentap if your interested is 209-942-2750 The website for more info: http://www.concentric.net/~fermntap/index.html <><><><><><><><> Happy Brewing Steve Altimari <><><><><><><><> Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 17:49:58 -0500 From: mthouse <mthouse at concentric.net> Subject: Removal of JS from the Digest In response to the knee-jerk, or maybe just plain jerk, comments about the removal of Mr. Schmidling, I need only remind Mr. Kraus of the first ammendment. I for one do not find JS a problem. In fact, I find it ammusing how easily he can "stir the pot". Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 16:53:06 -0600 From: ArchStanton <gotoit at prodigy.net> Subject: Hit the Road, Jack A recent post to the HBD invites Jack Schmidling to hit the road, or more accurately, invokes, using a picket fence of exclamatory punctuation, an unspecified authority to show Jack the door. All this because Jack uses the HBD for "his own benefit", etc. I have to say that I look forward to Jack's every post, not so much for insight into brewing (although he provides that too), but for his sense of humor. On the other hand, I can't remember reading anything either informative or amusing from the poster who wants him ousted. I say Jack should stay. As for the guy with the heavy finger on the exclamation key, I say don't let the door hit him in the you-know-what. Several posters also have their panties in a wad over some comments Jack recently made about alcoholism, and at least one suggests a more intensive discussion of that subject in the HBD, including "papers" from "professionals". At least Jack's original post, right or wrong (I don't know and don't care) had the merit of being about a brewing process, i.e., removing alcohol from beer, which is more than you can say for some of the diatribes which followed it. The name of this forum is the Home Brew Digest. I use the page-down key as well as anyone (better, in fact), but every post, including this one of mine, which isn't about *brewing in the home* potentially moves a post which *is* about that subject out of a given digest altogether, meaning those interested in *brewing* have to wait for two or more digests to obtain the information which could have been available in one. A cursory search of newsgroups turns up several with either "alcohol" or "recovery" or "abuse" in the titles. The discussion of alcoholism, both by Jack and his detractors, should be taken to one of those. To any who took offense at my "panties in a wad" phraseology, it's only a reflection of my contempt for the mind set (just to hang a label on it, let's call it "liberal") revealed in recent HBDs by the "alcoholics can't help themselves" posters: the sort who take it upon themselves to speak for some *other* poor bastard out there, the stupid one, the weak or helpless one, who must be protected from "harmful" information such as that supposedly put out by Jack. I would be surprised if any alcoholic even saw, much less took to heart, what Jack said. Any alcoholic who is reading the HBD is already on the wrong path, through no fault of any contributor to the HBD. That an alcoholic might find rationalization for his addiction in the HBD is about as surprising as finding Budweiser in the local 7-11. But there are a lot of contributors to this digest who are apparently rubbed the wrong way by Jack's personality (or at least his HBD persona - I don't know him personally) and they will go to any length to discredit or insult him. The high and mighty tone they often take in so doing is pathetic. At least Jack is funny. Let us now brew, or forever hold our piece. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 20:50:07 EST From: AlannnnT <AlannnnT at aol.com> Subject: Take Jack Off? Evan Kraus <ekraus at avana.net> Said: Take him off this forum !!!!!! {about Jack Schmidling} All he uses this is for his own benefit !!!! It is a great sales tool for him !!!! Well maybe I missed something. Jack is always trying to give his idea away for free. He posts on his page and in magazines, pictures of the stuff he makes, with instructions and a parts list, so brewers can to the hardware store and make it themselves. He has posted his techniques without shame on the HBD for years. Certainly he would have sold many more EZ mashers if he wasn't always trying to tell everyone how to make one at home. I do not agree with some things he says, [for example: his views on alcoholism] but he belongs on the HBD, IMHO, and is an asset to the HBD. {except as noted above}. Alan Talman Recovering HBD lurker, occasional HBD poster. As a recovering lurker, I find even one post can send me into a binge of posting. I just can't stop. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 21:25:36 EST From: AlannnnT <AlannnnT at aol.com> Subject: 220 in US homes-Brad McMahon Brad McMahon, maybe the HBD's southern most brewer, asked : When I was in the U.S. however, I did see these heater/tun/lauters on sale there as 220/240V units. How do you American brewers run these things? Brad, these units [Bruheats, etc.] can be plugged into an American home if it is equipped with a 220/240 outlet for the clothes dryer. The source [entry cable] of electricty to the distribution box inside the house is 220/240 volts AC in almost every house built since around 1920. [and most before then too.] An electric dryer in the US runs on 220 as does the rangetop-stove. Or, with very little work and a little homebrew, we can run a 220 line off a couple breakers and viola! Cost about $20 US. To our American readers, please don't mess with 220 if you are a newbie to electricity. Alan Talman East Northport, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 21:38:01 -0500 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: Re: Thermometer in cooler side ................From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald).............. I use an Igloo 10 gallon round cooler for my mash tun and would like to mount a dial thermometer into the side. Has anyone any advise on how to do this? ............................................................................ ... Don't do it.. A fixed thermometer in a mash tun is most like to give you some very deceptive information.. I find it essential to have a long stemed thermometer to move around while changing to a new temp rest. When I get similar readings all over I know the mash temp is stable. A single data point wont do it. be real careful here!!! (NO PLUG ..the best mash thermometer I found is Hop Tech's long stemed dial..JUST GOOD STUFF) ___________________________________________ JIM WALLACE ... jwallace at crocker.com www.crocker.com/~jwallace ___________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 19:34:01 PST From: "Gregg Soh" <greggos at hotmail.com> Subject: Kilkenny Anyone? I've been digging through the HBD archives of late for any posts of a Kilkenny-style recipe. As it turns out, there have been many requests but no one seems to have posted a recipe. Has anyone been able to nail the recipe yet? Or is a close-guarded formula that's only emailed privately? ( In which case, email me! :) ) Gregg ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 23:53:09 -0800 From: John Hessling <hessling at inlink.com> Subject: Second all-grain brew and newbie questions Hi all. I have brewed few batches so far and welcome all comments to my posting. I just finished brewing my second all-grain beer. It is fermenting now. I wanted to describe my experience and take the opportunity to ask a few questions. I brewed one all-grain batch last year (my first batch of beer ever.) My directions were very poor, the beer turned out okay (it was drinkable although a bit weak). I also brewed a few extract batches last year, some DME and some condensed liquid. The results were for the most part acceptable to good. I got some help from several of the experts on the internet trying to trouble shoot my first all grain batch and with that help and the reading and re-reading of Dave Miller's Home Brewing I was much more prepared to brew my second all-grain batch almost a year later. (Dave, if you are listening, great book! It is well written and just pack with usefull information. I recomend it to any one interested in brewing.) I am attempting to brew a bock style beer, high starting gravity, but am using an ale yeast.(Don't have a good place to ferment at a low enough temperature for lager yeast). I used 10 pounds of Breiss 2 row malt and 1 pound of Crystal malt. I used a mash schedule similar to the basic mashing schedule in Dave's book in one of my 5 gallon brewing pots. It was really full. After the mashout, I set up the Phil sparging system that I have and started re-circulating the wort. The last time I used this I never got the runnings to clear. But this time they did with about 4 gallons of recirculated wort. It seemed to work great. I drained off the mashing liquid being careful to prevent splashing and ran another 3 to 3.5 gallons of sparging water through the system. I got about 6 1/2 gallons of hot wort. I boiled for about 90 minutes and I used 1 oz of Chinook at 45 minutes and 1/2 oz of Haullertau hops at 85 minutes (probably a little light, not enough AAUs). I boiled in two 5 gallon pots, and cooled them over night. (okay I have not purchsed a wort cooler yet. It is next on my list.) I was carefull to keep the pots covered after the boil to help prevent contamination and oxidation. (Had that problem last time.) I racked off 4 3/4 gallons of 1.065 gravity wort (I only got 1.035 last year when I tried this grain bill, not too good, huh?) and spashed it around real well to get some oxygen into the wort. I had started my Wyeast 1338 European Ale yeast with quart of starter wort made from pale ale DME after the smack pack had swelled up. It took a bit longer than expected, the yeast was almost 10 months old, but it finally got going. I pitched the stepped up yeast starter with the wort at 70 degrees F and noted fermentation activity in just under 6 hours. (I've never had a yeast take off that quickly except for the dry yeast and I did not like the resutls of that batch.) It has been a very good experience. It took me about 6 hours on Saturday and maybe 2 hours on Sunday (a good bit of cleanup.) If any one has comments pleased send them to me either privately or to the collecitve. I find that the RE's I read on the net are very usefull to me and am sure it will help other newbies, too. Now to my questions: I am real impressed with how the starter helped to get the fermentation stared quickly. I am planning another brewing session very soon and heard that I could use the yeast from my currently fermenting batch. I was hoping to rack to a secondary fermenter after the fermentation has slowed. Can I just dump my next batch right onto the yeast in the primary or should I extract the yeast, clean and sanitize my primary and pitch the yeast I extracted into the primary after I rack my cooled wort into it? Do I use all of the yeast in the bottom of the primary or part of it, don't want to overpitch. My next batch will probably be a lighter beer, probably around 1.040 starting gravity, but similar to my bock style beer other than that. Does it matter that I use the same yeast that I used for the bock? Or should I get some more yeast started for my next brew? (This seems like a silly question, but I am unsure.) I know that every one recommends that we should be brewing in stainless steel pots. But I just could not afford the SS pot yet and have been brewing in Aluminum pots. That is all I had. What are the problems with Aluminum pots? I have not had any problems that I can iscern with them, yet. I clean them real good after every batch, but I don't try to remove the oxidation that has occurred from the exposure to wort and water, though. How quickly should I expect the bock beer to ferment out? I usually transfer to a secondary after about 1 week. I was told not to leave it in a plastic fermenter for more than 10 to 14 days. There can be problems with autolysis and infection, so I rack to glass carboy after the activity declines. Should it ferment out more quickly becuase of the bigger pitching of yeast? Okay, that is all for now. Oh yeah, my personal email address is: hessling at inlink.com I don't have a cute byline, like some, so just keep on brewing, the rewards are terrific. John Hessling, St. Louis, MO Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 00:13:21 -0800 From: smurman at best.com Subject: homebrew cooking - Tuscan chicken This recipe and the next I'm planning to post deal with de-glazing. When foods are cooked, lots of sugars, proteins, blood, etc. gets encrusted on the bottom of the pan. As we all know, Mr. Maillard informs us that many interesting flavors lurk in these carmelized products. Deglazing is basically using liquid to remove the crusty bits from the bottom of the pan and making a sauce out of it. Typically this is done with a wine. I think this stems from the method being popular in French and Italian cooking, both regions where wine is more popular than beer. Of course I live in California, so all bets are off when I enter a kitchen. In many respects, beer is a better choice for deglazing. It's higher proportion of unfermentables can really add some interesting character. The trick of course is to know what dish goes well with what. This is a Northern Italian (I think) chicken recipe. It's better to fuck up with $5 worth of chicken before moving on to tenderloins or tuna. Get about 1/2 - 1 lb. of chicken "parts". I usually get the small packages of legs and thighs for this recipe. If you've a whole bird lying around, then just have at it with a cleaver (who said cooking is work?). Add some olive oil to a frying pan, add a pinch of salt and pepper, and brown the chicken on all sides over medium-high heat. Should take about 5 minutes. Place some sage leaves on the bottom of a baking dish. Remove the chicken to the baking dish, placing them meat side down. Add some sliced shallots to the pan, and cook these until they become slightly translucent (i.e. until they look done). Add about 4 oz. of beer, and scrape the pan to loosen the bits of crust on the bottom. Cook it down for a few minutes. I used an overcarbonated steam beer, and it worked pretty well. When you add the beer to the pan, you should get a face-full of a strong aroma. Don't worry - all those compounds that just went up your nose will not be going into the food, but it will give you an idea how the beer will contribute to the flavor. Add the beer sauce and shallots to the chicken in the baking dish. Bake covered at 425F for about 40 minutes, basting frequently. With about 10 minutes to go, add some sliced artichoke hearts to the baking dish. I just use the 60-cent ones packed in oil in a jar, but you can always cook up a bunch of artichokes and peal them if you like to make your life complicated. Serve with a little of the sauce. Just good, healthy, simple food. Enjoy, SM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 05:58:25 -0600 From: "John Lifer, jr" <jliferjr at misnet.com> Subject: RE:Food Grade containers Curt Sutliff inquired as to how to tell if a container is 'food grade'. The best way is to look at the bottom of the container. It should have one or more of the following: "NSF-2", for National Sanitation Foundation standard 2, "FDA approved materials" for just what it says, contains only FDA approved materials. Barring one of these two, you may or may not have a food safe container. Light or 'natural colored' containers are in most cases ok to use. I would not use black or dark colored containers. They may contain heavy metals from colorants or other contaminants if the material was reprocessed or recycled.-Two different things. Food grade containers do not have reprocessed or recycled materials touching food surfaces. Any container you get from a restaurant, i.e. pickle containers, should be just fine. Most any restaurant tosses a number of these containers in the trash. A lot of food comes prepared to the restaurants. Go ask for some - at a slow time - You might be surprised. John Lifer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:17:52 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Nope Brewsters: Dave Hopf says Schmidling should not be allowed to post. = I disagree strongly with that. Jack's posts are a sometimes a little off the wall and explore the edges of the envelope, but so are mine and so are others here. Brewing is not a one-dimensional activity, so areas need to be explored with a different light from time to time to keep us from being drawn down the path of "this is always right and this is always wrong" based = on limited observations and understanding. As long as his comments are well intentioned, right or wrong, I wouldn't dream of any kind of censorship and, in fact, abhor the thought. That doesn't mean that we shouldn't comment on them and agree = or disagree with them or ignore them if we so choose, since we are intelligent free-thinking adults. - ----------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com = Voice e-mail OK = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 07:59:03 -0600 From: Randy Lee <rjlee at imation.com> Subject: Big RIMS While we are on the subject of RIMS, Anyone got pointers/experience/designs for a RIMS system of about 5bbl size? Randy Lee Vinking Brewing Company Dallas, WI. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:11:42 -0500 (EST) From: Homebrew Digest <hbd at brew.oeonline.com> Subject: Censorship Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Let me save a little bandwidth: No one will be excluded from posting beer-related information on the Home Brew Digest. No one. Cheers! The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:00:50 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Scotmalt Steve Alexander <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> wrote >BTW - let me repeat my request - does anybody know where to get 'Brewing >Products' malts in the US ?? GW Kent, Inc. of Ann Arbor, Michigan, imports and distributes the Scotmalt line. They switched sometime this summer from Hugh Baird. The product seems fine, no apparent difference that I've heard of noted by AABG users and one local brewpub, except that the price is 14% lower. Standard disclaimer. Randy Reichwage, GWK owner with his wife, Chantal, is a longtime member of AABG. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:39:29 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Zapap improvements Curt Sutliff's question about food grade buckets for a zapap and Dave Burley's suggestion about using a soldering iron to make the holes (I wish I'd thought of that in 1983 when I spent many, many hours drilling) prompt me to offer some suggestions for improvements again. I used a zapap from 1983 (I know, the date of manufacture is stamped on the bottom of the buckets) until about two years ago, when I moved to a 10 gallon aluminum, bottom fired (therefore not automatic) RIMS based on the Pico system. A zapap is a great way to inexpensively do all grain. I think the geometry offered is better than with a rectangular cooler. I made well over a hundred batches in mine, some of which were great (IMNSHO). You can also use it for malting grain. 1) Silicon seal (food grade) the two buckets to eliminate air being sucked through the gap during lautering, as happened to me. You can remove and recaulk for occasional cleaning, but not that stuff much accumulated in my experience, and you need it only clean, not even sanitized. 2) Insulate it with the thick styrofoam shipping container for a 7 gallon carboy (I bought from St. Patrick's of Austin). The bottom is a perfect fit. I insulated to lid with a circle cut from 1" foam. Plastic bubble wrap works for the part of the bucket that sticks above the carboy jacket. This holds the temperature rock solid. BTW, I have three of these containers that I no longer need if local brewers want them. 3) Reduce the space under the false bottom to less than 1" by cutting down the top of the outer bucket. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:10:31 -0500 From: jucks at cfaft4.harvard.edu (Ken Jucks, ph # 617-496-7580) Subject: 1998 Boston Homebrew Competition I am pleased to announce the Fourth Annual BOSTON HOMEBREW COMPETITION to be held on February 21, 1998 in Somerville Mass. This competition is sponsorerd by and run by the Boston Wort Processors. Entry deadline has been set as the 14th, and must be received by that date. This competition will also be one of the first Qualifying Events for the Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing (MCAB) that many of y'all have been reading about on this forum. All of the information anyone needs to enter the competition or to judge in the competition can be found at http://www.wort.org, including entry forms, bottle labels, judge registration forms, etc. I encourage all of y'all who are interested in this competition to obtain your information through this channel. For those of y'all who don't have web access, e-mail myself (Ken Jucks, jucks at cfa.harvard.edu) with your e-mail and snail-mail addresses and I will get you the required information ASAP. Thanks, Ken Jucks Coordinator for the 1998 Boston Homebrew Competition jucks at cfa.harvard.edu http://www.wort.org <-- See this site!!! *** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 10:15:48 -0800 From: rust1d at usa.net Subject: Re: MIXMASHER vs RIMS Shawn Dodds wrote (in r.c.b.): > It's been way too long since my mechanical engineering classes (or I'm > too lazy) for me to calculate gear diameters, rotational velocity, > teeth per inch and torque, but if I had the appropriate gears, I'd > probably just try getting a $30 fan from Kmart and use both the blade > and the UL approved motor. > > Just a thought, Now, if I can just find the gears..... American Science and Surplus has a motor/gear box from a battery powered car. It is listed as 3-12 VDC. At 3 VDC 1 amp it runs about 35 rpm. It sells for $12.50. They also sell Universal DC power supplies rated 1.5-12 VDC for $7.50. With these two major parts running about $20.00 the MixMasher seems rather cheap to build. Now I just need to find a fan blade. Or perhaps a industrial paint stirrer would fit the bill? Now since I already have a RIMS, why would I not want to use these two devices in tandem? This would probably eliminate setting the bed with gummier mashes. I also find that my RIMS mash is always a degree or two cooler around the edges of my SS mash tun. This might also help with batch sparges. FYI, American Science & Surplus can be found at: http://www.sciplus.com/cgi-bin/basket/884013165.75/catindex.html The motor/gear box can be found at: http://www.sciplus.com/cgi-bin/basket/884013165.75/wired/27172.html The Universal Wall Adapter can be found at: http://www.sciplus.com/cgi-bin/basket/884013165.75/wired/23684.html - -- John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Boneyard Brewing The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program Glenside, PA rust1d at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 08:44:35 -0500 From: kathy <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> Subject: alcohol limitation programs I have read and seen news items about alcohol abuse programs which feature behavior modification to enable individuals to stop at an appropiate number of beverages rather than insisting on abstinence. As I remember the presentations, they suggested most of the countries outside of the USA emphasized this technique of learning controlling behaviors and only in the USA was abstinance the prevailing mode of treatment. As I remember the sucess rates were presented as comparable to the USA 12 step mode and it was emphasized that some individuals were not able to control their drinking. I am not involved professionally or personally in any way with this area of concern but more information is of interest to me as I know an individual who loves beer and drinks and has had incidents of alcohol abuse. TIA Jim Booth, Lansing, MI private responses at kbooth at waverly.k12.mi.us Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:14:09 -0600 From: "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton at iastate.edu> Subject: Boiling Over!! Dear HBD: It has once again come time for the HBD pot to boil over. The symptoms are clear: one or two highly opinionated persons begin to lob accusations back and forth. Next, a few allies on both sides begin to weigh in, then most of the digest's bandwidth is wasted with DID TOO/DID NOT argument. Almost like a boiling pot that boils over when covered. It seems that this type of boil-over occurs at least twice a year, and would probably occur much more frequently if there was no queue. So, once again, thank you Mr.s Babcock and Lutzen for overseeing this often chaotic environment. If pattern holds, this recent bout of flaming will subside, and a flood of excellent technical information will come our way. Just like when we as brewers recognize that the pot is boiling over, and take action to get the situation under control. Once we get back to business, the digest really fulfills its purpose; providing an environment for the dissemination of quality (if not often anecdotal) information. Keep it coming, and don't censor anyone. Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 09:24:43 -0700 From: "Lee, Ken" <KLee at resdata.com> Subject: Converting 10 Gallon Gott to a RIMS I have been using my 10 gallon Gott cooler as an infusion mash/lauter tun, and am interested in learning how I can convert it to a RIMS system. I have seen a picture of one, but never seem explicit instructions on how to do this. If any one has done this or knows a web page/article that describes how to do this in detail (diagrams, parts list, etc.), would you please let me know! I am not mechanically inclined, I just really like to tinker with this stuff! Thanks, Ken Lee klee at resdata.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 10:46:11 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Mixmasher >Human intervention is required to monitor and adjust the heat source >but I really doubt that many RIMS users go to a football game after >setting up a mash. Surely, half the fun of using it must be *watching >it work Absolutely, and I cannot imagine watching a football game during brewing. Most of my spare time is spent thinking about the next steps in the proccess, and what can be done to improve the next brew. If I am not doing that, I am entering information into the brewing log. I am at the point of design and implementation of my RIMS where I can decide on two paths to take. 1) The current setup uses manual controls for temperature, pump operation, and dial thermometers. 2) I could automate the entire RIMS, but my current thinking is that while it could be done, it really is not neccessary or desirable. I could computerise the thermometers, the pumps, the heaters, etc.., but do I really want to? I still need to stir in the grain, prepare the brewing liquor (PH adjustment, chlorine removal). Then I need to boil, add hops, etc.., so why automate? Now if I liked gadgets, (and I love them), then sure the fun of it all may be worth it, but I am not fooling myself into thinking it is the best way to brew. Ron rlabor at lsumc.edu Ronald J. La Borde Metairie, LA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:02:41 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Mixmasher >The motor output speed is 30 RPM. As motors are *expensive*, I >estimated this requirement by timing hand stirring and hooking The >gear-motor I use was purchased from Granger for about *$90* but if >you only want to make one, they are available on the surplus market >for $10 or so. Just an idea, if you decide to go this route, I have recently purchased an orange juicer. This was to juice 20 pounds of oranges for my orange wine (yeah! fermenting away even as I speak), and I noticed upon cleaning it and preparing it for storage that it may make a great motor-drive device. It has plenty of torque, is in a base unit with a hex shaft for output. It would take some mechanical mussings to get it all going, but it was cheap, I think around $20.00. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 11:40:43 -0600 (CST) From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> Subject: Give Schmidling a free HBD membership! Greetings to all on the Jack Schmidling Digest. >Take him off this forum !!!!!! Jack presents some non-mainstream views about brewing, and I thank him for it. The process on electronic forums (fora?) is that everybody shoots off their mouth, and the readers weed out what makes sense for them. Jack contributes a great deal of value to this process, even when he's wrong, by making other people think through and clarify their own positions. Re Alcoholism: Some research indicates that addictive behavior has a neurological basis. However, a small but significant number of alcoholics find that they can return to drinking in moderation. Perhaps there are two or more types of alcoholic -- addictive and learned, perhaps? Re Courtesy: this has been lacking on both sides of this debate. Remember, the more snide you sound, the less credible you remain. It would be good for both sides to present their own experiences and information without implying the other side is lying, or made up of spineless losers or irresponsible drunk-baiters. (Exaggerated for emphasis. Slightly.) On the net, if you aren't careful to be almost courtly, you can sound insulting. This creates a lot of anger and argument and boring wasted space. Some people I respect, in several forums, have not learned this. What goes into their keyboards is just emphasis and jocular good humor, but what comes out of some screens is snide, thinly veiled abuse. Other people just enjoy starting fights. They are small people. Ignore them. If you just HAVE to snap back at someone, please do so via email. Here in HBD, feel free to refute their erroneous data, or share your own experiences. Thanks, Sam Mize - -- Samuel Mize -- smize at imagin.net -- Team Ada Fight Spam - see http://www.cauce.org/ (personal net account) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:53:48 -0500 From: William D Gladden <W_GLADDEN at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US> Subject: Allergic Reaction to Beer Greetings beer people. Your advice would be greatly appreciated. A friend recently had a strong allergic reaction to a hoppy Micro-brewed Pilsner. He got hives all over his face and had a slight tightening sensation in his chest. We have isolated the reaction to the beer consumption. He has consumed other beer previously, you could say extensively, but had not had highly hopped pilsner before. Since that occurrence, a few weeks ago, he had a much milder reaction to drinking Rolling Rock. Anything similar happen to anyone else? Any ideas on whether it was likely triggered by the yeast or hops? Any opinion on whether it is likely a reaction to low hopped, filtered beer will pass? Also, a few years back, I did a search of the HBD archives through a technical homebrewing page (I could never get Stanford figured out) but I can't remember the URL. Any suggestions on good search vehicles for HBD archives would also be appreciated. HBD or private responses would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Bill Gladden W_Gladden at Mail.Co.Chester.PA.US Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:05:19 EST From: KennyEddy <KennyEddy at aol.com> Subject: MixMasher Being one of the resident "gadget gurus", I thought I'd chime in on the JS MixMasher thread. I think it's a great system that anyone who's remotely "handy" can cobble together rather easily. There are some questions/concerns that have been raised so I'll toss my two cents in on those points: *HSA* I, too, wonder about the HSA issue, and will defer judgement to other more knowledgable contributors. But if the cover is made to fully enclose the mash, wouldn't the mash be covered mostly by water vapor (assuming a hot- enough mash-in)? Maybe a quick flush with CO2 before placing the lid would alleviate problems. *Recirculation* To me, RIMS' recirculation advantage is two-fold. First, it evens mash temperature by moving the liquid around. Second, it clarifies the wort, eliminating the need for a "manual" recirculation step prior to sparging. On the temperature issue, see next topic below. As for clarification, I get adequate clarification with my non-RIMS setup in a few minutes of manual recirculation, and some writers (Noonan comes to mind) have raised the possibility of deleterious effects (lipid extraction) from over-circulation. Don't know whether there's any real cause for concern but in any case, I don't see recirculation to be a huge thing. Combining the MixMasher with an Easymasher outlet would presumably minimize the clarification time anyhow. Improved enzyme contact with the grain could be a third advantage of RIMS, but this is also addressed with Jack's system. *Temperature Control* This is definitely the MixMasher's shortcoming when compared to RIMS. However, a simple solution is to put a RIMS-type heater controller on it, controlling an electric heating coil onto which the pot is placed (a 120V hot- plate would probably be perfect). Also, several sources (Omega and Minco come to mind) supply flat flexible heating elements that could be attached directly to the bottom or sides of the pot (and covered with a wrap of fiberglass insulation). This would make the unit fully stand-alone. The motion of the mash over these surfaces would presumably provide efficient transfer of heat through the vessel. Aluminum vessels would have an advantage over stainless in this regard. As for cost, as has been said, it's probably comparable either way, since one can pay anywhere from nothing to hundreds of dollars for either type of system, depending on one's abilities and sources for components. If the HSA issue could be addressed satisfactorily, I think that this type of system can join RIMS in the Gadget Hall of Fame. No need for either to go to the museum just yet. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:05:15 EST From: KennyEddy <KennyEddy at aol.com> Subject: Bottle Labels Dave Thomson asks about label-making software for bottles. I made a batch of amber ale to give away as Christmas presents, and so I thought a nice label would lend a "professional" touch. My goal was to produce something in color that wouldn't smudge or run under the unpredictable conditions of my recipients' holiday ice chests or whatever. (I also force- carbonated and CP-bottled these for no-sediment bottles). I used the newest version of Print Shop, and set the project up as a "mailing label". This allowed me to create one label which the software automatically prints six-up. Depending on which label you specify, the number per page and the size will vary, bit I found this size to be perfect. By virtue of the automatic multiple-up printing, the labels were nicely aligned so I could cut them out with broad strokes of an Exacto knife rather than having to cut them out individually with scissors. The huge assortment of graphics and word-art features make it quite easy to make slick-looking labels. The other thing I did, which addresses the smudging/smearing issue, was to bring the color ink-jet printout to a copy place (like Kinko's) and make color copies. Since I had six labels per page, I only needed 8 copies to do the 48 bottles I ended up with, so the cost is pretty minimal (and these were gifts, so who cares?). If black-and-white labels are OK with you, a laser-printer output on good- quality laser paper will be waterproof. B/W ink jet printer output will still smudge if it gets wet, so simple (cheap) photocopying would be a good idea in that case. Use your employer's copy machine for best cost-effectiveness ;-) Many word processors and database programs have multiple-up mailing label capability. For simple labels, this may be adequate. If you're into lots of color & graphic effects, though, you'll need a more graphic-oriented application. I used a single thin bead of "Tacky Glue" around the edge of the label to affix them to the bottles. This allows easy removal by running under hot water for a few seconds. For non-returnable gifts, more glue would be OK, but not necessary. "Glue sticks" also work well. ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 12:19:39 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: GET RID OF HIM >Subject: Schmidling take him off the digest. >Take him off this forum !!!!!! >All he uses this is for his own benefit !!!! >It is a great sales tool for him !!!! >GET RID OF HIM !!!!!! "Do not pride yourself on the few great men who, over the centuries, have been born on your earth -- through no merit of yours. Reflect, rather, on how you treated them at the time, and how you have followed their teachings." -- Albert Einstein Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
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