HOMEBREW Digest #2644 Mon 23 February 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  HB Shops (GordonRick)
  SRM colors in your computer? (John Bowerman)
  You-Youse-Yins-Y'all / Charcoal FIlters & Minerals (KennyEddy)
  Yeast powered chili,beer and flatulence ("David R. Burley")
  Mail Order Supplier Wanted or Help in Japan ("OPEVER37")
  after the bottling ("John Herman")
  5L Minikegs ("Carl Shipman")
  Carbon Filters (David Houseman)
  Home Roasted Malt / Lager Ferment times (nathan_l_kanous_ii)
  5L Party Kegs aka Minikegs ("Grant W. Knechtel")
  explanation of -Youse- ("Jonathan G. Ingram")
  plastic fermenter early retirement (Heiner Lieth)
  nylons / hop bags (Heiner Lieth)
  Aluminum and CIP (michael rose)
  The Olympics and Hazy Beer ("Carl Shipman")
  Bucket odors (Mark E. Lubben)
  Re: Mash water calculations (Scott Murman)
  Re: Fermenting (Not so) BIG ales (Jim Wallace)
  Autolysed yeast - yum ("Steve Alexander")
  Enzyme Mortality ("David R. Burley")
  Heater Elements (Sully)
  240V vs. 120V ("Joe K. Chang")
  More Beer Color Info (Kyle Druey)
  Hop cuttings in Australia / New Zealand (Simon Charlton)
  Wyeast 1728 ("Michael Gerholdt")
  Water Chemistry ("Gregg Soh")
  Long Secondaries (Paul n Shelley)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 23:11:52 EST From: GordonRick at aol.com Subject: HB Shops A few days ago, Michael Dingas wrote about mail order trouble. It can really suck when mail order is your only option and you realize on brew day you forgot a key ingredient! Michael - I'm surprised Warner Robbins doesn't have a dozen HB shops. (Just kidding!) There are not many places deeper in the Great American Beer Wasteland (Bible Belt + small town + intense brand loyalty to Bud) Next time you are up in Atlanta, stop by Amber Waves (LaVista Rd) or BYOB (downtown) and grab a 50 Lb. bag of pale base malt and then mail order just the specialty malts etc. Buy bulk hops and invest some of your freezer space. If you are an extract guy, buy bulk extract shipped in plastic bags or buckets vs. cans. Start a yeast ranch. Macon doesn't have a shop? As a former mailorder guy, I never had any problems with retailers. Your post struck a chord and I felt the need to un-lurk , steal a little bandwidth, and do the soapbox thing vs. private e-mail. I want to publicly thank all the various shops (no affiliation) that gave me GREAT service over the years. Happily sending a replacement hydrometer when it broke in shipment etc. I mail ordered from as far away as Spokane (Jim's Homebrew) to Minneapolis (James Page) to Atlanta (BYOB). I was often willing to pay extra postage to do business with some of these Great Americans because of the service and assistance they provided. Service IS everything. Unfortunately, I can see how the HB market has gotten alot more competative in the last few years and many HB shops have closed down. :-( Whenever I travel, I try to find the time to stop in at a local shop to browse and BS with the shop owner or clerk. Hey! Who has ever walked into a shop not needing something! - Picture the airport security guy pulling a baggie full of whole hops out of the suitcase :-) My hat is off to all the folks out there (too many to list) providing the ingredients, knowledge, and enthusiasm that make this hobby so rewarding. Thanks guys (and gals)! Prost! Rick Gordon 24 beers in a case, 24 hours in a day. Coincidence? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 03:57:01 -0800 From: John Bowerman <jbowerma at kfalls.net> Subject: SRM colors in your computer? Ooohh the light's bright ... In HBD # 2642 Carl Shipman" <cshipman at dakotacom.net> wrote: > > If anyone makes a color scale and likes it, the next question may be > transporting it between computers. Major variables will be monitor > brightness and contrast settings. I think this can be controlled with the > exposure meter of an SLR camera and will be glad to respond to e-mail on > that topic. > There can be considerable variation in the intensity and actual color of the RGB guns between monitors of the same brand and model (when new, let alone after being used for awhile). Unless you have the wherewithall (i.e. cash) to afford one of those superduperdeluxeohwowgolly high end graphic art monitors getting an accurate color rendition on the average consumer monitor is a bit of a crap shoot. One possible way around this is to obtain a set of pantone color strips and try to balance your monitor's colors accordingly. Most of the graphic arts-types I know consider these to be fairly standardized. On the other hand, Hoptech offers a "Homebrew Color Guide" for about $10 that provides a fair measure of color in degrees Lovibond. FWIW, the tech sheet that came with mine says that accuracy is from 3 to 19 degrees L. Anyway, a thought ... Back to the shadows ... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 09:56:58 EST From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: You-Youse-Yins-Y'all / Charcoal FIlters & Minerals Dan Cole wrote: If you'll allow a southern boy to comment on the "youse" thread, the plural of "You" is not "Youse"; it is "Ya'll." Here in Texas "Y'all" is singular. Plural would be "all y'all". Obligatory beer post follows. ***** Louis Gordon asks: "If I use an activated carbon filter to remove chloramines, will it also remove minerals that I need to be adding back with brewing salts." No, the charcoal filter will not appreciably alter the mineral ("salt") content of your water. That could be good or bad depending on where you live. In El Paso it's bbbaaaddd since our groundwater has sifted though gypsum and salt fields on its way to the Mighty Rio Grande. Our water looks like a bad impression of Burton's. ***** Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 10:06:35 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Yeast powered chili,beer and flatulence Brewsters: Chris Niehaus says: >In the list of ingredients for my Hormel Chili, the third from the last >ingredient was "autolyzed yeast". Say what? Why? Anybody have >a clue as to what purpose this is serving? Well, if it is not there to give a meaty flavor, it is likely a Vitamin B supplement. Brits and Ozzies have been eating this stuff on toast since before the Great War. It is called "Marmite" and like ski jumping must be learned to be enjoyed at an early age. On the other hand we all know that his stuff is also a yeast and bacterial nutrient and it may also add additional POWer to the Chili by encouraging fermentation in the intestine. {8^) - ---------------------------------- In that same vein, I would think beers with a lot of dextrins in them would be prone to cause flatulence, simply because these complex carbohydrates are broken down more slowly. Just a WAG, any comments? - ---------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 98 17:53:46 EST From: "OPEVER37" <OPEVER37_at_INDY-ADP at smtp-gw.cv62.navy.mil> Subject: Mail Order Supplier Wanted or Help in Japan Fellow Brewers, I am fairly new to the list and a first time poster. I enjoy the list and am learning lots. I have brewed a few batches of extract pale ales and wheat beers which turned out well but was recently transferred to Yokosuka, Japan. I am presently underway on the USS Independence in the Persian Gulf and want to brew some more when I return to Japan. My question is can someone supply me with a list of email addresses for mail order sources on the west coast of the U.S. and/or any source of supplies in the Tokyo/Yokohama area of Japan. Thanks, Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:56:05 +0000 From: "John Herman" <interport.net at interport.net> Subject: after the bottling Okay, so I've fermented, I've bottled, I've left it in the bottles at room temperature in a dark place for a few weeks. Where do I store it? Should I store my bottled ales in the dark closet, or in the fridge? /*************************\ /* John Victor Herman *\ /* johnvic at interport.net *\ /* johnvic at echonyc.com *\ /*************************\ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 09:54:29 -0700 From: "Carl Shipman" <cshipman at dakotacom.net> Subject: 5L Minikegs A couple of observations that may be helpful to can fans: The rim around the top is tall enough that you can pour in water to submerge the bung. If it is leaking CO2 pressure, you may see bubbles. Mine haven't leaked yet. The rubber bung holds pressure the same way as a tubeless tire valve. William's Brewing sells a food-grade viscous (like Vaseline) sticky lubricant and recommends putting it on sealing surfaces. In order to escape, internal pressure has to move a very thin layer of sticky stuff between two surfaces, the dimensions favoring the sticky stuff (intuitive). For cleanup, sticky can be removed with kitchen degreasers such as 409. Hop to it. Carl Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 14:38:47 -0500 From: David Houseman <dhousema at cccbi.chester.pa.us> Subject: Carbon Filters Happened into a new Home Depot today and in wondering about found a very reasonable water filter kit with carbon filters. My intention was to use that to filter water that comes from my outside water hoses (plastic flavor) to my RV hose I use in the brewery (garage). Price was right and I was getting the fittings when the plumbing manager warned that the carbon filters are prone to the growth of bacteria especially with well water (I have) which isn't chlorinated to begin with. Never having heard this I postponed the purchase until someone on the digest with experience with filtering water through carbon filters could shed some light on the use of these filters with well water. Anyone got any advice? Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 14:10:32 -0400 From: nathan_l_kanous_ii at ferris.edu Subject: Home Roasted Malt / Lager Ferment times Greetings! I just stopped at the local coffee roaster to talk about roasting some barley. He said a simple way to do it at home was to use a hot air popcorn popper. As he told me about it, I looked at his coffee roaster. Forced heat! Same idea! Anybody tried this? Any idea how long to roast? Raw vs malted barley? Raw vs malted wheat? Any preferences? Thanks. WRT lager ferment times. Many recipes and books refer to fermenting lagers for a couple of weeks followed by a "diacetyl rest" for a day or so and then cool to lagering temps over a few days. I've only made two lagers. Both of them, with 2 liter starters took at least 4 weeks to ferment. One was held at 50 degrees. The other was initially cooled to 38 degrees (don' t ask) and allowed to slowly warm to 59 degrees. How long do most of you have to let your lagers ferment? TIA. Nathan in Frankenmuth, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 11:23:11 -0800 From: "Grant W. Knechtel" <GWK at hartcrowser.com> Subject: 5L Party Kegs aka Minikegs Gregg Soh asks in HBD 2643: >Seeing as how there has been interest in the party keg system and >wanting to know more about it myself, here are some questions of my >own. First, almost all who've used them or sell them say that they >cannot be force carbonated using the "carbonator" and a cylinder. I >suspect so too. However, I've noticed that St.Patrick's of Texas >advertises the party keg with suggestions that they may either be >carbonated using priming sugar(less of course) or a co2 cylinder. Do >they know something we don't? 5L minikegs were designed as a beer sales container, similar to a standard beer can from the 50s. They are coated steel. They were not designed to accommodate over pressure. If one primes at the same rate as normal for homebrewing (3/4 cup corn sugar for 5 gallons), cans bulge, coating cracks and beer is ruined by contact with iron. I suspect the same thing could happen if force carbonated unless pressures were kept very low, at low temperatures, for a relatively long time. The original carbonater cap can be screwed on to a Minikeg CO2 tapper in place of the CO2 cartridge holder, and a standard CO2 cylinder attached. Newer carbonater caps have a lip inside which preclude this, the lip can be removed by routing it away, and the cap used. This is not the way the cap or tapper were intended to be used by either manufacturer, so it is done at your own risk. I would only use it to dispense beer from the keg, saving the roughly $1 per minikeg cartridge cost. Another alternative is to use the available hand pump, which allows air in to replace beer dispensed. This means the minikeg must be emptied soon, in one sitting at best. I have heard of people force carbonating in minikegs using standard cartridges, but never first hand. It would be costly, and priming is simple and inexpensive. If St. Pats is advocating using a standard CO2 cylinder for force carbonating, I hope they have a good lawyer due to going so far outside manufacturer's intended use. I suspect they are referring to use of the standard cartridges. >Secondly, I was wondering if the taps can be removed mid-keg, >without finishing so that you can tap a different keg and return later. No, the tapper is installed by pushing the center section of the bung into the keg with the tapper. It can be removed and reused along with the tapper and bung after the keg is emptied. This is yet another way cornie kegs are more versatile than minikegs. I like my minikegs, but look forward to retiring them, soon. -Grant Neue Des Moines Hausbrauerei Des Moines, Washington Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 15:40:52 -0500 From: "Jonathan G. Ingram" <jgi105 at psu.edu> Subject: explanation of -Youse- >Being a Philly boy, I have to admit that in philly we use "youse" as the >plural of "you". Example- instead of saying " where are you guys going?" We >would say "where are youse guys going". I hope I cleared up this confusion >for everyone. I must also admit that I get tortured for saying this up at >Penn State. They also laugh at the way I say water (WOODER), Eagles >(IGGLES). But I'm proud to be a philly boy. -Jon >Jonathan Ingram - jgi105 at psu.edu - http://www.personal.psu.edu/jgi105 >We Are Penn State! > Jonathan Ingram - jgi105 at psu.edu - http://www.personal.psu.edu/jgi105 We Are Penn State! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 12:59:17 -0800 (PST) From: Heiner Lieth <lieth at telis.org> Subject: plastic fermenter early retirement In HBD#2642 Vachom <MVachow at newman.k12.la.us> worte >Don't use it, lessn' of course you want pickle tastin' beer. Get a new >clean one and even then you should probably retire plastic fermenters >every 5-10 batches--use 'em to soak bottle labels off, store grains, I agree with the sentiment about not using the bucket until you've got all the pickle taste/odor out of it. Perhaps the residual pickle flavor will disappear if you use it to soak bottles in bleach water a couple of times? I don't agree with plastic fermenter needing retirement after 5-10 batches. If you treat them right they will last much much longer. I'm still on my first bucket (~30 batches). Personally if find it much easier to treat a plastic bucket right, than to treat a glass carboy right. I would say: never use a scrub pad on a plastic fermenter (If you have some crud stuck to the plastic, then use warm water and a sponge). I don't like to use any brushes on the plastic either. Heiner Lieth. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 12:59:14 -0800 (PST) From: Heiner Lieth <lieth at telis.org> Subject: nylons / hop bags In HBD#2641 David Hill sez: >I posted a while ago that I was using nylon ankle stockings to hold hops >for dry hopping because I could not find a catering sized tea ball. > >Stockings work but are messy to clean and I in fact usually decide that >the value of the time to clean one is far in excess of a new stocking so >I have been just throwing them out complete with the hop pellet dregs. I use hop bags made from a one "pair" of panty hose that my wife deem unsuitable for further use. I cut off each leg and then cut each into two, making 4 bags. Tying knots secures any open ends. When I first set out to use these, the thought of where they had been, and where the fluid they were about to soak in was heading, made me decide to boil the h*$$ out of them first. That was a real good decision because it turns out that there was a lot of dye in these. In fact I ended up boiling and rinsing 3 times before the true color of the nylon (a greyish tan/white) emerged. So if you are using new ankle stockings without any pre-treatment, then I would guess that the color of your beer is likely to be just a bit darker than it would otherwise be. (yuck!) And throwing them away after first use means you're tossing them at a point where they are actually just reaching their prime. I have found it very easy to dump the content out and rinse the hop bags. It's a lot easier than prepping a new bag (boiling, etc..). There are a few things to watch out for with these bags: see to it that your stirring spoon doesn't have any burrs which catch the bag and cause holes. I had a hole (1/4") appear during my last boil (but the bag stayed intact). Don't cram all your hops into one bag; I use no more than about 1 oz of hops per bag. Also, I understand that hop extraction efficiency goes down but I can't attest to that because I don't have anything to compare with. I generally squeeze the hop bag out in the wort several times while boiling. Heiner Lieth. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 13:30:33 -0800 From: michael rose <mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net> Subject: Aluminum and CIP >From HBD 2643 >From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> >Subject: Why aluminum isn't used commercially >Greetings, >Aluminum is seldom used in commercial brewing because: > - It reacts poorly to clean-in-place (CIP) chemicals I've heard that the new CIP products are very neutral, could they be used on Alum? Any body from 5-star monitoring? Mike Rose, Riverside CA mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 14:39:49 -0700 From: "Carl Shipman" <cshipman at dakotacom.net> Subject: The Olympics and Hazy Beer The queue lately seems short enough to allow this. If you are pretty busy today, you might should just skip to the next posting. I was reading Al Korzonas' good book "Homebrewing Vol. 1". The Olympics were on TV and I was sipping a glass of my current tasty brew, widely known in my house as Old Opacity. On the TV, I noticed an ice skater suddenly leap into the air and spin around three or four times. What is the usefulness of that, I wondered. The public loved it. The judges gave him high marks according to the rule book. I tend to rank things according to general utility, so I gave the dervish a negative ten and returned to my book. Soon, our friend Al was carefully explaining how to get haze out of beer. What is the usefulness of that, I wondered. I think haze is usually protein and vitamin-laden yeast. Ain't that good for you? The public expects clear beer because they never saw any other kind. Beer judges demand it for most styles, I assume because of the rule book. Mentally I gave Al K a 5.9 for thoroughness. Next time I serve a glass of Old Opacity to a guest, I intend to point out with quiet pride that it has an ample portion of nutritious haze -- a health benefit withheld from the public by the big brewing companies. If a few of you influential brewers will help a little, I believe we can turn this thing around and get it back on the right track. Support nutritious haze! Carl Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 17:16:28 -0500 From: mel at genrad.com (Mark E. Lubben) Subject: Bucket odors Several people have been posting both Pro and Con answers to William Warren's question about using a pickle bucket for fermenting. I don't have any direct experience with pickles, but thought I would pass on my experience so others could avoid it. I was trying to get some of those dreaded Sam Adams foil labels off (they really are bulletproof.) I tried a two hour soak in 120F or so Spic-n-Span TM. It only did a moderate job on the labels, but the pine scent did a horrible job on my 7 gallon primary bucket. I tried everything to get it out. Reading in HBD about using sunshine to deodorize pickle buckets, I tried it for two weeks. Scentless! I thought I had it beat. I made an Octoberfest, and spent weeks swapping frozen 2 liter pop bottles in a cooler. When I opened the primary to siphon it to a carboy, I got the first hint of disaster. The aroma of pine cleaner was faint but unmistakable. Even after weeks in secondary and months in the bottle all I tasted/smelled was pine. That is the only whole batch (of beer) that I have tossed. DON'T PUT ANY SCENTED CLEANERS IN A FERMENTING BUCKET (even for an hour) ----------===---------------------------------------- In fact even delabeling bottles with bleach leaves tiny bits stuck to a bucket that I can't get off without seriously scratching the plastic. Seems like a better career for that pickle bucket. If you think a pickle bucket is ready for a fermenter, try "brewing" a batch of plain water with LID ON for a week or so. The delay may be a pain, but throwing out five gallons of 'dill' water is less painful than five gallons of beer. Mark Lubben Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Feb 1998 15:54:47 -0800 From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: Mash water calculations > > Isn't it a bit strange that the calculations are correct for > > adding water to dry grains, but way off when adding to the mash? > > I'm aware of the YMMV clause that comes with these formulas, but > > still? The formula is basically the same. > > I had the same problem. From what I've seen so far, no formula > or software takes the thermal capacity of the mashtun into account. I'm sure you meant to say "no software that wasn't written in Perl by an old UNIX curmudgeon". Check out http://www.best.com/~smurman/zymurgy/scripts.html Hopefully it would be totally useless for anyone who insists on using Windows, but you should be able to dig out the equations for your spreadsheets. I use it, and it does work pretty well. You do indeed need to account for the thermal inertia of the mash tun. You can easily determine this by heating some water, measuring the temperature, pouring it into your mashtun, waiting 5 minutes, and then checking the new temperature. You'll have to run through some equations, but it should get you a value close enough for government work. Check the HBD archives for the equations to use (enthalpy remains constant), or Ken Schwartz's web page. Using a thicker mash (~1.0 qt/lb) and a good lab-grade thermometer also seem to help. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Feb 1998 11:26:17 -0500 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: Re: Fermenting (Not so) BIG ales ...............Andrew D. Kailhofer" <andy at aerie.bdy.wi.ameritech.com> >I brewed a rocket-fuel Christmas Spice beer that was in the 1.110 >range OG, the number 1.114 comes to mind (can't find my notebook right >this instant). I used the 1728 Scottish, and it actually fermented >down "too low" (like 1.012-ish). I wound up resweetening it with... ..........No such luck here..... I have a strong scotch ale in secondary now 3+weeks since brewday.. I used the 1728 stepped up to 2 Liters..no aeration.. and cool ferment 56-58F... it started at 1.081 but is only down to 1.036 now... it is still active 10 Bub/min and cloudy indicates yeast in suspension. This was designed to be a Traquair style and I pulled the second runnings off for a small beer 'Bear Ale'.. starting at 1.045 and after 7 days 1.014 (CliniTest says its done) as intended Both beers were mashed for high dextrin content... single infusion at 158F I was expecting an attenuation of 66% The only diff between the 2 worts was that I pulled 1 Gal of thick first runnings (1.115) and boiled down to ~1pint (thicker than any extract I've used) and added this back to the big beer. Also, I did pull it off the primary yeast bed after the kreusen fell.. it had only dropped to 1.045 by then... was I too early?? .. could that have upset the fermentation program?? .. were my yeast not happy?? I have never had a strong beer take this long before.. is it stuck?? .. there seems to be a lot of activity but the gravity is really dropping slowly (clinitest now reads 1.5-2%+ fermenrtable sugar left).. I had a chance to talk with Frank Smith (Ian's associate) at Traquair House last fall and he says he quite often has a problem with slow fermentations and just rouses it and turns up the heat some... I am trying to avoid this.. Is this slow ferm normal at cool temps?? ...any comments are welcome ___________________________________________ JIM WALLACE ... jwallace at crocker.com http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace ___________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 03:28:01 -0500 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Autolysed yeast - yum Christopher Niehaus asks ... >In the list of ingredients for my Hormel Chili, the third from the last >ingredient was "autolyzed yeast". Say what? Why? Anybody have a clue as to >what purpose this is serving? Food chemists have been toying with specific proteins and their related Maillard products for some time, creating specific flavor analogs. One of the early commercial applications from the 1960s or 70s was the discovery that proteins in (autolysed) yeast can be used to create Maillard products that have a good artificial meat flavor or broth flavor. This shouldn't be much of a surprise since a well seared steak gains much of it's flavor from the Maillard reactions between the meat proteins and the (relatively small amount of) carbo- hydrates. I guess that yeast aren't the only ones to eat autolysed yeast. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 10:37:49 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Enzyme Mortality Brewsters: After commenting on the enzyme mortality in a recent HBD, I came across a tangentially related article in Chem and Engineering News, 1/16/98 p29. "Active Enzyme Found in 4,000 year old Mummy" Check out the full article in Nature 391,343 (1998). The article in part comments that the preservation methods were so good that the mummy's bones contain an enzyme that is still active. Alkaline phosphatase isolated contained 20% of the activity of a modern sample. How were dem dry bones preserved? Sodium carbonate ( natron) and wood tar ( which is loaded with phenolics and is antiseptic). - -------------------------------------------------- Also in the Feb 2,1998 C&EN p25 is the article "Yeast Engineered to Synthesize Steroids" Full Article is in Nat. Biotechnol.,16,186 ( 1998) French workers have engineered S. Cerevisiae yeast to generate pregnenolone, the precursor to all steroid hormones and convert it to progesterone. Is the ability to ferment beer which is also a birth control pill far behind? Would this be the answer to a young stud's dream or what? Leave it to the French! {8^) - ---------------------------------------------------- Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 07:45:57 -0800 From: Sully <sully at drunkenbastards.org> Subject: Heater Elements After Ken Sullivan contemplated cutting the voltage in half on his 4500W/240VAC and 1500W/240VAC heaters to get 2250/120 and 750/120, Ken Schwartz said that "Running a load on half the voltage QUARTERS the power." and offered Power = Voltage-Squared/Resistance as the proof. This goes back a few years, but I always thought that Watts = Volts x Amps Which leads me to think that if you cut voltage in half, and feed the same amperage, you'll cut the wattage in half. Am I missing something here? I hereby disclaim any knowledge of the workings of electricity; the stuff causes me shocking experiences. I'm just hoping that everything I know isn't wrong. Sully (If you buy stuff by the liter, you gotta pay with metric dollars.) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 11:03:00 -0700 (MST) From: "Joe K. Chang" <jkchang at U.Arizona.EDU> Subject: 240V vs. 120V The major difference/advantage between using 240V over 120V is the amount of amps. A 120V motor drawing 30 amps will only pull 15 amps on a 240V circut. I would rather get zapped by 15 amps than 30 amps any day... If you want to run a 240V GFI circut, you can pick up a GFI circut breaker at a spa shop for about 100 bucks..... <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Joe Chang University of Arizona jkchang at u.arizona.edu or jkchang at engr.arizona.edu <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 02:58:52 -0800 From: Kyle Druey <druey at ibm.net> Subject: More Beer Color Info Brew Dudes: Here's a little more data on beer color. The MCU column lists the estimated final beer color for the only three homebrewing references I can find that provide data on beer color. MCU MOREY DANIELS NOONAN AVG 1.0 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.2 2.0 2.4 2.0 2.0 2.1 3.0 3.2 3.0 3.0 3.1 4.0 3.9 4.0 4.0 4.0 5.0 4.5 5.0 5.0 4.8 6.0 5.1 6.0 6.0 5.7 7.0 5.7 7.0 6.3 8.0 6.2 8.0 7.1 9.0 6.7 9.0 7.9 10.0 7.2 10.0 8.6 11.0 7.7 8.0 10.8 8.8 12.0 8.2 11.5 9.9 13.0 8.7 12.0 10.3 14.0 9.1 12.5 10.8 15.0 9.6 13.0 11.3 16.0 10.0 10.0 17.0 10.4 10.4 18.0 10.8 13.5 12.2 19.0 11.2 14.0 12.6 20.0 11.6 12.0 11.8 21.0 12.0 14.5 13.3 22.0 12.4 15.0 13.7 23.0 12.8 12.8 24.0 13.2 15.5 14.3 25.0 13.6 13.6 26.0 13.9 16.0 15.0 27.0 14.3 14.3 28.0 14.7 16.5 15.6 29.0 15.0 15.0 30.0 15.4 15.0 17.0 15.8 31.0 15.7 15.7 32.0 16.1 16.1 33.0 16.4 17.5 17.0 34.0 16.8 16.8 35.0 17.1 17.1 36.0 17.4 18.0 17.7 37.0 17.8 17.8 38.0 18.1 18.1 39.0 18.4 18.5 18.5 40.0 18.7 17.0 17.9 41.0 19.1 19.1 42.0 19.4 19.0 19.2 43.0 19.7 19.7 44.0 20.0 20.0 45.0 20.3 19.5 19.9 46.0 20.6 20.6 47.0 20.9 20.9 48.0 21.2 20.0 20.6 Morey is the equation found in the Brewery, Noonan is his beer color data found in New Brewing Lager Beer p. 206, Daniels is his beer color data from Designing Great Beers p. 61. The AVG is just the average color for any data that is provide at each MCU. You can use the tabular form above or the equations below: EQUATION A B C Morey 1.49 0.69 0 Noonan 15.03 0.27 -15.53 Daniels 1.73 0.64 -0.267 AVG 1.47 0.68 0.73 The form of the equation for final beer color is: Final Beer Color = [A * (MCU^B)] + C Just pick an equation and look up the constants in the table. Remember that MCU for each malt is the weight multiplied by the degrees Lovibond, divided by the beer volume. The MCUs for all the components of the grist are then summed and used in the equation. Nothing original here, I just regurgitated the work of others, and added a few mathematical tweeks (Ya OK, I admit to being a beer engineering geek, but this is part of the fun of it for me :>}). I am sure this will capture the interest of somebody out there in HBD land. Kyle Druey Bakersfield, CA Thank you NO Saints for giving the 9ers your starting TE and Mike LB, you can gladly make starters out of our special teamers Drakeford (CB) and Mitchell (LB). The 9ers should go to jail for stealing these players from you, what a deal! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 1998 10:36:59 +1030 From: Simon Charlton <simon.charlton at unisa.edu.au> Subject: Hop cuttings in Australia / New Zealand Greetings Collective, Thanks to all on HBD, you have helped me move from enthusiastic beginner to someone who now has some idea about brewing. But seriously the advice on brewing and the interest in many other topics I've gained from some of the debates going on, it's a great forum and I look forward to every issue. Home hop growers in Australia and New Zealand, I'm searching for a source of Hop cuttings. I've tried just about every avenue and can only get wild or ornamental hops (with no idea of breeding). Any help appreciated, as is any variety of brewing hop. Cheers, Simon Charlton <Simon.Charlton at UniSa.edu.au> Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 20:39:01 -0500 From: "Michael Gerholdt" <gerholdt at ait.fredonia.edu> Subject: Wyeast 1728 I hope someone will tell me that I don't have to ask "Is my beer ruined?" I reversed normal practice for some absentminded reason today. Racked off the starter beer from a large yeast cake, pitched the yeast, then tasted the beer. It was like strong, acidic rose-hip tea, very tart. Nothing like beer at all. The yeast had behaved well - It was step up 3 in about a gallon of well-aerated 1.060 wort (DME). Quiet for a few days, then a normal krausen for a few days, then cloudy beer, then clear beer. Cool temps (55F). I worked hard on a Scotch Ale, and had some incredibly tasty 1.082 wort. It was a disappointing shock to taste the acidic starter beer. I expect I just infected that lovely wort. Someone say it ain't so! Michael Gerholdt cryin' in my homebrew in WNY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 18:47:05 PST From: "Gregg Soh" <greggos at hotmail.com> Subject: Water Chemistry Hi. I've been reading up on my water chemistry lately and from the references we have that reside in the Brewery pages, as well as from some homebrewing texts(TNCJOHB comes to mind), there is always a mention of "ppm". We all know that this means "parts per millon", but are these parts based on weight or by atoms? There is alot of difference and one should not confuse them. Many references state that, for example, 1 gram of Gypsum(CaSO4) dissolved in 1 gallon of water will yield theoretically/ideally ~61ppm of Ca and ~147ppm of SO4. When you add 1 gram of CaSO4, you are adding a measured number of "moles" of this substance. In this mole, there would an equal amount of Ca atoms and SO4 atoms, meaning that you are adding: One gram Molecular Avogadro's No.of molecules of / weight x / of water in x 1 million salt used of Caso4 Constant one gallon = 0.35ppm of both Ca and SO4 to 1 gallon of deionized water. On the other hand, if ppm were a unit of weight, then everything would make more sense.....for Gypsum at least. If we look at Epsom salts(MgSO4), the addition of 1 gram to a gallon of water will yield(according to texts) ~26ppm of Mg and ~101ppm of SO4. If you divide the 1 gram of salt used by the relative molecular mass of MgSO4 will give you the number of moles used. This, multiplied by the atomic mass of Mg will give you the weight of Mg used. In one million grams of water, this would mean 52.8"ppm" of Mg, twice that stated in texts, as would follow the SO4 portion of Epsom. To those who are familiar with the chemistry, please point out if I am going wrong at any point. To those who know it, merely adding a stated amount of any salt will not always yield the ion concentrations that are theoretical. They are all there, but may precipitate out with other ions to form other compounds and might not contribute to the mash chemistry as you might want it to, especially when the temperature fluctuates. Anyway, my two cents worth. Can anyone help me understand the basis of the water profiles published in all the popular references? Thanks, Greg ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 1998 20:43:03 -0800 From: Paul n Shelley <pracko at earthlink.net> Subject: Long Secondaries I don't get it. A LOT of recipies call for an initial 5-10 primary fermentation and then for a lengthier fermentation in a secondary. Following this, the recipes usually call for packaging and priming with corn sugar. What I don't understand, and have NEVER been able to achieve, is successful natural carbonation of a beer after it has been in a primary and/or secondary for longer than about two weeks. Usually the yeast has completely autolysed by this point and can no longer reproduce due to the alcohol content. Has anyone been successful at bottle conditioning their beers after a long (14-20 day) fermentation without use of additional yeast? Why do recipes call for such a lengthy secondary fermentation when corn sugar is being used as a primer? I can see the benefits of conditioning a beer in the secondary for a long time, but that's only if you have a CO2 tank to force carbonate it with. Cheers, Paul Return to table of contents
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