HOMEBREW Digest #2676 Wed 01 April 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Local Homebrew Stores (Headduck)
  RE:Wine & Brew By You ("Capt. Marc Battreall")
  competitions (Robert Arguello)
  respiration (Al Korzonas)
  B-Brite (and One-Step for that matter) (Al Korzonas)
  storing yeast under beer ("Taber, Bruce")
  Protein rests (Al Korzonas)
  Racking Tube and Plastic Hose Water Spots (MIchael Cukrow)
  Frozen keg turns foamy! (Nathan_L_Kanous_Ii/FSU)
  High Iron/Manganese Well (AJ)
  Wine & Brew comment ("Robert A. Black")
  Storing Yeast Starters ("Raymond C. Steinhart")
  Souring Stouts (Jason Henning)
  No Hands HLT and Parallel Serial Brewing (Jason Henning)
  Sugar ("David R. Burley")
  Corny Kegs (Bill_Rehm)
  .08 and beyond (haafbrau1)
  .08 is not the end ("Spies, James")
  Kegging and Temperature Fluctuations (sbgr)
  Re: displaying my ignorance (part II) (Marylou Anderson)
  "I don't care so don't post it, waaah"; legislators; erroneous credit (Samuel Mize)
  sources for rice hulls (Duarte George M NUWCDIVNPT)
  RE: Still more .08 (Cory Wright)
  Neo-Prohibition (Malty Dog)
  Homebrew class (michael rose)
  DMS (Al Korzonas)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:03:59 EST From: Headduck <Headduck at aol.com> Subject: Local Homebrew Stores Simon Wesley writes: "I heard ecohes of many experiences I've had with homebrew stores In reading Al K's post about Wine & brew By you INC. I would like to buy locally but I often wind up walking out of the store annoyed by the behavior of the employees. Being treated like a cheapskate because I refuse to pay $50 for a 25 kilo sack of M&F pale annoys me. Getting unsolicited lectures on brewing techinques from extract brewers with two years of experience rubs me the wrong way. I'm about ready to give up on these people and switch to mail order. Does anyone have a polite but effective way of dealing with these kind of people?" How about trying to get to know them. These people are doing a great service to the community by having a homebrew store. I am willing to pay a bit more for the privilege of having a store that I can count on being there when I need last minute supplies. On the other hand, I agree that if the owners or employees are arrogant or pushy it is difficult to want to spend any money in their store. Find out if you are talking to an employee or the owner. If it is an employee, talk to the owner about it, they need to know that their employees are chasing away customers. Buying locally is important!!! If we all start buying everything from mail order or large discount chains we will end up with sterile communities with no life uptown and nothing but Walmarts, Kmarts and fast food joints on the edges. The money that you spend in these places takes the first train out of town into the deep pockets of someone somewhere else, leaving nothing but minimum wage jobs, cheap products and lousy food!!! Sorry about the non-brewing bandwidth, but this is important. America is becoming a giant homogenous mass. In ten years either everybody or nobody will know what a spicy mudbug is. And then what would we talk about!!! Hoppy Brewin' Joe Yoder Lawrence, Kansas Check out the Lawrence Brewer's Guild Website: http://www.cjnetworks.com/%7Ekpb3 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 13:07:44 -0500 From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman at terranova.net> Subject: RE:Wine & Brew By You Hello All, There have been a few posts in recent HBD's regarding a homebrew supply store in Miami, FL called Wine & Brew By You. These posts have included some pretty derogatory statements referring to past experiences some of you have had with dealings (mail orders etc.) with them. Al Korzonas started it, I believe, with a reply to someone and he wrote: >Now, it seems that Wine & brew By you INC. feels that we in the HBD >may know something about brewing. Well, I do happen to know what >yeast you have there and I'll tell you if you send me a check for >$23.70. >Al. >A dissatisfied W&BBY Inc. customer since 1990. >P.S. I still haven't seen a review of the beer by Mr. Mossberg, >incidentally. Well, in defense of this store, please read on--------- This, and the other occurances were more than likely with the previous owner/operators of the store. The man you were dealing with name is (or more appropriately, was) Craig Mctyre. He passed away some time ago. It's easy to bash the guy now, but I too agree that he was somewhat difficult to deal with. He was quite eccentric or more blatantly, weird. The guy was kinda like a drunken Howard Hughes. The store was in a total shambles, old & outdated products lined the grubby shelves, and the advice you got most of the time was "Just add a few more pounds of corn sugar and it'll turn out alright". That is all in the past. I am sure that Al is p.o'd about his money, and the downright insulting of his knowledge of brewing. I don't know you personally Al, but I am sure that you have blown this thing off altogether. However, I must pronounce that now, the store is being operated by a young guy named Lewis Good, who was working there when Craig was alive. Lewis took the bull by the horns, cleaned the store up, and really turned the place into a fine homebrew supply outlet. Lewis is a very knowledgable brewer and a damn good friend of mine. I cannot vouch for his mail order service as I go to the store directly. That, in and of itself says something because I live about 60 miles from his store in The Keys and it's not just a drive around the corner. Lewis is an active member of our local homebrew club, The Miami Area Society of Homebrewers (M.A.S.H), and had donated his time, supplies, expertise, and beer judging skills on countless occasions. He has given me, (yes, given) alot of products to test out and been awfully kind in other ways too. He has kept the store open late just for me to come by and pick up a few odds and ends.Seems to me that this whole mess came about because the man asked about a yeast that he acquired from a bottle of Rogue beer (which, by the way, he shared a slant of with me) and inquired to the HBD in a post. He was merely a victim of mistaken identity and in no way should be associated with the sordid past of his deceased former boss. Nuff said. I raise my stein to you, Lewis!! Signed, Captain Marc Battreall Islamorada, Florida Future site of "The BackCountry Brewhouse" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 10:08:08 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Arguello <robertac at calweb.com> Subject: competitions Simon Wesley recently wrote, expressing his hope that beer judges and competitions have immproved over the years........ >The recent Satan thread brought back some traumatic memories of a >Home Brew contest I entered and served as a steward at back in the mid >80's. The whole experience put me off contests for life. The judges >to whom I was serving the beers were often arrogant and ignornant. and >they semed more focused on showing off their "knowledge" and slamming the >lower quality beers than providing people with good quality feedback on >how to improve their brewing. I hope that this sort of thing does not go >on any more..... Simon, I can't speak to what was happening in competitions back in the 80's, and can't even speak globally about the present state of affairs....but your post moves me to relate a recent experience. I had the pleasure of serving as a steward and as a judge for the recent competition organized by the "Bay Area Mashers" of California fame. This competition is called the "World Cup of Beers" and is a qualifying event for MCAD. I am pleased to inform you that the organizers of this competition went to great lengths to insure that all entrants in the contest receive fair, even handed assessment of the beers submitted. We were instructed to spend extra time commenting on the beers that did less well so that the brewers could improve their results. The spirit of this club's competition, (and also of the BJCP), is that the judge should comment on the good points of a low scoring beer..not just the faults. I was able to read many of the score sheets and was impressed that all of the judges took the instructions to heart, as did I, and I found that virtually every score/comment sheet was filled, (often even on the back), with excellent, thoughtful and detailed feed-back. The judging spanned 3 days, day 1 and 2 were the "prelims" and the entrys were culled from nearly 300 to about half that number. Day 3 was the "finals" and each flight was judged by a panel of 3 judges. Brewers who entered beers in this event can expect to receive comment sheets from as many as 5 judges. You may also be unaware that the BJCP has recently installed a system whereby a brewer can "challenge" any judge(s) that he or she feels was unfair. Robert Arguello "All in a Days Wort" http://www.calweb.com/~robertac robertac at calweb.com (916) 756-4956 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:12:00 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: respiration Peter writes about a University of Michigan experiment on bakers' yeast. This brought out a number of questions in my head... Was the yeast truly "respiring" (i.e. using the oxygen for metabolism of sugars) or were the yeast simply absorbing oxygen for sterol synthesis? Also, how could they tell the difference... unless perhaps they were measuring CO2 evolution which would be different for respiration than it would be for anaerobic fermentation? Finally, Saccharomyces display what is known as the Crabtree effect, by which respiration is suppressed by glucose (and other sugars but to a lesser extent). I don't know if bakers' yeast is Saccharomyces, but if not, then all bets may be off. This may all be moot if indeed they were misusing the term "respiration" to simply mean "any and all use of oxygen" which it is *not*. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com My new website (still under construction, but up-and-running): http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 12:37:43 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: B-Brite (and One-Step for that matter) Tom writes: >B-Brite is NOT a sanitizer, it is a mighty effective cleaner, but has no >or very little sanitizing capability. If you don't believe me, read the >label and look for the word "sanitizer", you won't find it.<snip> B-Brite is not labeled as a sanitiser (nor is One-Step) because there are specific governmental hoops that one must jump through to be authorised to label a product as such. My discussions with Crosby and Baker (the distributors of B-Brite) and L.D.Carlson (the distributors of One-Step) indicate that these products do (did? see below) have sanitising capabilities, but they had not yet done the paperwork for having the products labeled as sanitisers. The reason I say "did?" above is because I have heard (about a year or two now) that B-Brite changed in colour and some were speculating if it had not simply been replaced with dishwashing detergent. When I owned my HB store, I was only carrying One-Step, so I did not follow up on this *RUMOUR*. The sanitation provided by these products would be via sodium percarbonate which, when mixed with water, is somewhat like sodium carbonate and hydrogen peroxide. It's the peroxide that provides the sanitising action. I brewed a number of batches in which the only sanitiser was One-Step and had no problems with infection. I have since changed to using primarily Iodophor, mostly because once the oxygen bubbles out of these percarbonate- based sanitisers, you no longer have any sanitising action (and high levels of organics can really use up that oxygen quickly). I now use it as a cleaner (like PBW) and then follow up with either Iodophor or StarSan. Iodophor is nice because it's sanitising capabilities are active as long as it has an amber tint. I haven't read that much about StarSan yet, so I don't know if it too has this feature. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com My new website (still under construction, but up-and-running): http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:29:01 -0500 From: "Taber, Bruce" <Bruce.Taber at nrc.ca> Subject: storing yeast under beer On Friday the 27th, Scott Murman commented on yeast storage stating; >>>>>> I've never used the method myself, but others here and in books (sic) have mentioned being able to store yeast under beer on the order of a few weeks without problems. I've stored large volumes of yeast harvested from a primary under water for a few weeks, but longer than that and all I have is a jar of (effectively) dead yeast. >>>>>> For the past few years I have been storing yeast under beer for periods of up to 9 months without problems. I have read many opinions that this is impossible....... go figure. The reason I began doing it this way is because I have seen, first hand, people effectively use yeast from commercial brews that have been sitting under the beer in the bottle for at least a few months. I have also seen people leave beer in their secondary for up to 6 months (they kind of forgot it was there) and still have effective natural carbonation after bottling. These events illustrate to me that yeast is fairly forgiving as long as it is kept clean. My procedure is to buy a pack of expensive liquid yeast, brew a 32 oz. starter batch, let it fully ferment out, swirl it to suspend the yeast, pour it into four 8 oz. sterile jars, and store in the fridge to use over the next few months. This way all my future starters are from second generation yeast. I have found that a higher-than-normal final gravity is an indication that the yeast is getting too old. This is my limited observation. Any expert opinions on this? Bruce Taber in Almonte, Ont. Canada bruce.taber at nrc.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 15:29:07 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: Protein rests Kyle quotes some mystery beer wizard: >MBW> With respect to the Siebel expert protein rest at 135 will not do >much is correct, proteolysis is most rapid at 50-55C(122-131), 135 is >too high. <snip> I believe, as I've said before, the Siebel expert was incorrect as do I believe that the Mystery Beer Wizard is incorrect on this point. I have a lot of evidence in my own personal brewing that a 135 F rest will significantly reduce break formation with DeWolf-Cosyns Pils and Pale Ale malts. I've got at least a dozen batches worth of datapoints that confirm this action. As for proteolysis, *peptidase* (as Kyle correctly points out) is active between 50 and 55C (122 and 131F) and works like beta amylase in that it munches little bits from the ends of long chains. *Proteases* on the other hand, are active between 50 and 60C (122 and 140C) and they work like alpha amylase, chopping big chains in the middle. Proteases breaks big proteins down to medium-sized proteins (statistically speaking) whereas peptidase snaps amino acids off the ends of big and medium-sized proteins. >KMD> What about the mantra here on the HBD that resting in the range of >KMD> 132 F to 140 F will favor degradation of HMWP to MMWP, and minimize >KMD> degradation of MMWP to LMWP? > >MBW> Remember its the same enzyme so at higher temps its going to be >less active and produce less of all types of proteins. 132 is at the >high end and 140 you are starting to activate starch conversion. It >shouldnt matter anyway. It is *not* the same enzyme. In fact, there are many enzymes at work here. I am not sure if there are several grouped into "peptidases," but I'm positive that there are a variety of enzymes at work grouped together as "proteases." Just like with the diastatic enzymes, the higher the temperature, the faster the action, BUT the more heat labile (heat sensitive) enzymes (beta amylase in the case of diastatic and peptidase in the case of proteolytic) are denatured (deactivated) quickly at higher temperatures so *that* is how their action is limited. It's not that peptidase does not work at 135F... it's just that it is denatured before it can accomplish much. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com My new website (still under construction, but up-and-running): http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 19:40:27 -0500 From: MIchael Cukrow <mcukrow at nac.net> Subject: Racking Tube and Plastic Hose Water Spots After recently siphoning using my racking cane and tubing, I began to wonder if anyone had a good way to dry this? What I usually do is hang them over a door and let them 'drip dry', but unfortunately I end up with white spots on the inside. Is this harmful? Is there a better way to dry them so I don't end up with these? Thanks for the advice, Mike Cukrow Mt Arlington, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 20:01:42 -0500 From: Nathan_L_Kanous_Ii/FSU at ferris.edu Subject: Frozen keg turns foamy! Help! My keg refrigerator is in the garage. Two Fridays ago (about 10 days) I found two of my kegs were frozen. I turned off the fridge (inadvertently) and they thawed. Now all I can get is foam. I've depressurized a couple of times to no avail. What has caused all of this foaming (both kegs) since the beer froze? What can I do about it? TIA Nathan in Frankenmuth, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:32:47 -0400 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: High Iron/Manganese Well Randy Reed asked about his well water. He posted the following values for water from the well and out of his softener (softener values in parentheses): Na 10.9 (105); K 1.0 (0.35); Cu 0.02 (ND); Fe 3.29 (0.08); Mn 1.22 (ND); Mg 5.7 (0.03); Ca 33.9 (0.25), pH 6.5 (6.5); Alk. 42.5 (55); Cl ND (130); NO3 ND (0.30); SO4 14.7 (13.2) The well water is problematical in that it is very high in both iron and manganese which will result in stained toilets, sinks, dishwashers, laundry etc. (hence the softener installation) and metallic tasting beer. Otherwise the water is quite nice with a respectable calcium content and modest alkalinity. If not for the iron and manganese this water would be suitable for the vast majority of brews, even the demanding Bohemian Pilsner, as the sulfate level is quite low. For many beers, one would supplement the sulfate for hop character and chloride for fullness/sweetness. But the iron/manganese must be dealt with. I would try aeration of the water followed by filtration. I tried this on a local brewer's water and found that iron at the level of 1 mg/L could be removed down to the level of detection of the test (a couple of hundredths of a mg/L) simply by pulling the sample through a 0.5 micron filter. Note that all this gent's iron was in the +3 state to start with but I have no idea about Randy's. Aeration changes Fe(II) to Fe(III) which forms an insoluble hydroxide at higher pH. Aeration also has the effect of raising the pH by allowing dissolved CO2 to escape. Similar things should happen to the manganese (at higher pH Mn(II) forms a gelatinous pink precipitate which turns black upon oxidation to MnO2) but I haven't any direct experience with this. Note that it is rare for Mn to exceed 1 mg/L in natural waters. So try aerating and filtering through fine sand or tight filter paper. The filter medium should show orange to brown to black staining. Taste the filtered water and finally have it analyzed to see if your processing got the Fe and Mn out. Another approach is to talk to your water treatment supplier about having an iron removal unit installed. These do nothing more than oxidize Fe(II) to Fe(III) (usually with aeration but sometimes with potassium permanganate) and filter through a back washable medium. They cost about half a grand. I'm not sure how they'd do against this very high manganese level though so I'd want some assurance from the seller before having one installed. If the iron removal unit is successful against the manganese (and it should be as evidenced by the fact that manganese in a high oxidation state is used in some units and then presumably successfully removed as the oxide) then its output will be very nice brewing water. You would not, then, need the softener _for brewing_. If you want soft water for other reasons, then the softener is the way to get it. If I had money to burn and wanted soft water for bathing etc. I'd consider an iron removal unit followed a softener. I'd tap my brewing (and drinking) water off between the two. Softened water is good for dishwashers, clothes washers and water heaters but not much else in my opinion. The alternative is to brew with the softened water but the disadvantages of doing that have been published here dozens of times. In this particular case I suspect a problem with the softener. Chloride, clearly coming from the backwash brine, should not appear in the output stream at the level reported. Chloride level should not change by more than a few mg/L as a consequence of passing through the softener. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:51:59 -0500 From: "Robert A. Black" <rblack at aoml.noaa.gov> Subject: Wine & Brew comment Concerning the opinion of Wine & Brew expressed in response to a simple question: I am a customer of Wine & Brew, and I have been purchasing brewing supplies there since 1992. While I cannot vouch for the mail order service of Wine & Brew by You, Inc., since I always drop by the store in person, I have had no difficulties with their services. However, I was in fact about to go to a mail-order supply house to get a better price, until Mr. Good took over. Personally, I have always been treated courteously at Wine & Brew, and have received much good advice, particularly from Mr. Good. For example, when my bottle capper wore out, Mr. Good exchanged it for a new one without my asking. Mr. Good has also given me free samples of products to try, as well as suggestions for improving my brew. The service and supplies offered to me by Mr. Good have always been fresh and competitevely priced, especially in the two years since Mr. Good began managing the store. While the problem described by Mr. Korzonas could well have happened, eight years have elapsed, and it is ridiculous that this problem has been brought up in response to Mr. Good's question. It is absolutely unfair to blame Mr. Good for any shortcomings with the previous management. In my view, it is up to the customer to seek redress of grievances within a reasonable time. Robert A. Black South Miami, Florida Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:42:21 -0600 From: "Raymond C. Steinhart" <rnr at popmail.mcs.net> Subject: Storing Yeast Starters I have read some recent threads on yeast storage, but I have not read a complete procedure on storage of yeast slurry or starter: Question 1) Is it wise to save some of the sediment from the primary or the secondary. Question 2) If from the primary, what about all the proteins, dead yeast, etc. that will be mixed in with the sediment? Question 3) My goal is create a starter ahead of time and put it in my cooler to shorten the lead time. Many times I don't know if I will be able to brew until a day or two ahead of time. I prefer to use liquid yeast and would make a starter from these as opposed to collecting slurry from previous batches. If I make a starter from liquid yeast: Question 4) What should I store this starter with? Additional wort, sterile water, boiled tap water, or nothing except the original contents of the starter? Question 5) How long can a starter be stored for? I am talking ale yeasts here. Thanks Raymond C. Steinhart Brewers of South Suburbia Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 09:38:02 GMT From: huskers at olywa.net (Jason Henning) Subject: Souring Stouts Hello- After all the talk about brett in Guinness, I'd like to brew a soured stout. I'm thinking of brewing a 7 gallon batch. I'd brew 4 gallons for my main batch and 3 gallons to sour. From the 3 sour gallons, I'd freeze 2 one gallon jugs for 2 future batches and use one for this batch. Should I ferment this 3 gallons as usual then add the brett or add the brett with the yeast right off? Or not even add yeast? BTW, I'd want to boil (or at least hold it at 165F for, say, 20 minutes) the brett portion before adding it to the main beer, right? Another question, is a gallon of soured beer to much? Cheers, Jason Henning <huskers olywa net> Big Red Alchemy and Brewing Lacey, Washington Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 09:38:08 GMT From: huskers at olywa.net (Jason Henning) Subject: No Hands HLT and Parallel Serial Brewing Kyle Druey talks about his No Hands Hot Liquor Tank. I'm just about done with mine. It's been a project in development for a couple months now. It's a converted Golden Gate keg. I'm using an immersion t-stat (Grainger 2E939) to drive two solid state relays (Grainger 6C904). The SSRs each control 1440 watt elements. I'm ordering a thermometer from Trend Instruments tomorrow. Why would anyone want such a HLT? I'm trying to get to the point where I can brew four batches (or more) in a session. I'm hoping to be able to do two batches at the same time and then start the next batches as the equipment is freed up. Parallel serial brewing (at it's best). I've been doing two batch serial brewing and one of the problems is monitoring the HLT while keeping up with everything else. How does anyone else do multiple batches? Once I get going like I want, I might put a coil in the tank and make a heat exchanger type RIMS out of it. A question to those using water heater elements, how are you insulting the connections? I've been just leaving them exposed but there's got to be an easy way to make this safer. I tried a 4" square box in between the element and the keg but created leaks. Cheers, Jason Henning <huskers olywa net> Big Red Alchemy and Brewing Lacey, Washington Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:11:27 -0500 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Sugar Brewsters: Jeff Renner says about putting sugar in bread dough: "It's just because someone thought you ought to put the sugar in, and the error is repeated by most recipe writers" I doubt it. Sugar and milk (lactose) are used as crust colorants in many recipes. As the sugars caramelize, they color the crust. Salt in excess also imparts a reddish tinge to some doughs. Jeff's earlier comments about a dough left too long rising having a very light color crust supports this point, since the sugars have been depleted by fermentation. Keep on brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 103164.3202 at compuserve.com Dave_Burley at compuserve.com Voice e-mail OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 07:42:21 -0600 From: Bill_Rehm at DeluxeData.com Subject: Corny Kegs Greating fellow brewers. I am thinking about starting to force carbonate some of my brews and then counter-pressure fill my bottles. The problem is, I don't have a spare fridge to chill the kegs. Can full kegs be left on their side while chilling, or will this cause problems with the seals. I think I can make room to roll a keg or 2 onto the bottom shelf of my kitchen fridge. TIA Bill Rehm Milwaukee, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:41:29 -0500 From: haafbrau1 at juno.com Subject: .08 and beyond Anybody not from the U.S.,please page down, as this is yet another .08 rant. No offense intended to the original poster, BUT, the (para)phrase 'Don't worry, it won't affect most of us' is pretty scary to me. When political a$$holes (and you know lots of money and power are at stake here) start chipping away at our rights and freedoms, they don't stop with just a few chips. Eventually, before we know it, Big Brother will dictate everything we say and do or don't do. We won't even realize it until it's too late. These same people that govern us have chauffeurs and can't even balance their own checkbooks (and they don't even have to) let alone the Budget. I don't advocate drunk driving. I think the laws already in force are sufficient and should be enforced, not make new laws. I'm stepping off my soapbox now. Relax, Have a Home Brew, But watch your elected officials Paul Haaf haafbrau1 at juno.com _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 09:31:58 -0500 From: "Spies, James" <Jams at mlis.state.md.us> Subject: .08 is not the end All - I will try to keep this short, I promise . . . I've been lurking on this thread for a bit now, and as I work as a bill drafting attorney for the Maryland General Assembly (the lawmaking body of Maryland), I feel that my experiences this legislative session may be of some value to the collective. We in MD had a proposed bill to lower our present DWI BAC from .10 to .08. It failed big time, but the way in which it did is where I feel the value for us lies. Quick primer -- in MD, to become law, a bill must be assigned to a committee in the house of origin (Senate or House of Delegates), pass the committee by majority vote, pass the house of origin by a majority vote, and then go to the opposite house and repeat the process. While in each house, it has a chance to be amended and altered. If it passes all these hurdles, it is presented to the Governor to sign or veto. Touchy-feely do-good bills like this usually have a boatload of co-sponsors -- legislators who sign their names onto a bill to lend support to it (and also to look good to their constituents). Because of this, legislators might feel pressured to pass a bill that they signed onto unless they are convinced otherwise (politics being what it is). In MD, the citizens came out in droves to rally against the lowering of the limit. In order to defeat a bill, we as citizens MUST show our opposition to give the legislators an escape route of sorts to vote against a bill that they signed onto because of political pressure, but don't really morally support. If we DON'T, we risk bad law being passed by default. Many on this forum have advocated the laissez-faire approach to the process, and that's just fine, but I feel that if we don't become active in our democracy, it will run amok because of the CONSTANT activity of the fringe movements that advocate things like zero tolerance. Moral: be an active participant; contact your legislators. If not, you run the risk of having democracy dictated to you. Or don't do anything. The choice is yours . . . Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Mar 98 09:29:00 -0500 From: sbgr at cbmsmail.cb.lucent.com Subject: Kegging and Temperature Fluctuations Greetings, I kegged for the first time about a 1-1/2 months ago (corny kegs), and all was going beautifully. I had an Anchor Steam clone with great taste, head & clarity. I had force carbonated with the keg sitting in 45-55 degree weather in my garage for about a month. (I was still in the market for a chest freezer) Life was good...I had a great beer on tap and I even found a good deal on a used freezer. Then last week the weather turned warm in Ohio (upper 70's / low 80's), and I had not taken delivery of my freezer yet. As a result, the CO2 that had been dissolved in the beer came out and now I had warm flat beer, but I can get around that with a 2 liter bottle and a homemade Carbonator. Biggest concern for me is that the formerly clear beer in now very cloudy as if the yeast (or god-forbid an infection) has gotten very active. I filled a 2 liter bottle and after a while got a fair amount of yeasty looking sediment on the bottom and I could see quite a bit of stuff in suspension. The taste is still OK but it has degraded somewhat. Could this be a late resurgence of the yeast, or do I have my first infected beer? Thanks for any help / suggestions. Stacy Groene Columbus, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 06:51:28 -0800 From: Marylou Anderson <maryloua at concentric.net> Subject: Re: displaying my ignorance (part II) - ----------------------------- > > Date: Fri, 27 Mar 98 20:53:53 > From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh at teleport.com> This is the first time I have posted on HBD. I usually do not have anything to contribute since I've only been brewing for about 8 mos. Subject: Displaying my ignorance (part II) > > I have since looked at a Bud Light can which shows 110 calories, > 6.6 grams carbo, 0.9 gram protein. (6.6 + 0.9) * 4 = 30 calories > attributable to the listed components. The remainder (80 calories) > must be the alcohol. Question: Isn't alcohol a carbohydrate? > Won't it contribute to weight gain? (SOMETHING is causing my > beer gut!) Alcohol is not considered a carbohydrate. Alcohol contributes 7 calories per gram, while carbohydrate and protein contribute 4 calories per gram. > Some call alcohol 'empty calories'. I never figured out exactly what > this means, since it must be real calories if it is digested and > contributes to weight gain. "empty calories" means a food contributes a signigicant amount of calories but does not have many nutrients. For instance potato chips and soda pop would be considered "empty calorie" foods. Beer would also probably fall into this catagory. Although personally, I would rather get my calories from a homebrew than potato chips or soda pop!! Marylou Anderson Kent, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 09:13:11 -0600 (CST) From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> Subject: "I don't care so don't post it, waaah"; legislators; erroneous credit Greetings to all, and especially to: > From: Wayne_Kozun at otpp.com > > Will everybody just shut up about the new drunk driving law and get back to > talking about brewing. This is not the "Pissed Off About Proposed American > Legislation Digest" it is the "Homebrewing Digest". Check the masthead: > FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES ^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ >Many of the > participants here are from the UK, Australia, Canada and elsewhere and we > just don't give a damn. To any such who are mentally incompetent to hit "page down," my apologies. > We Canadians are willing to accept reasonable laws that increase public > safety. That is why it is rare to hear about Canadian children shooting > each other. If you think it's because of the laws, your opinion of the Canadian people is much lower than mine. I agree with you that blanket smears of other countries are childish and inappropriate. Even oblique ones. - - - - - > From: brian_dixon at om.cv.hp.com > Subject: Re: Legislating morality... ... > >Well, they're at it again. Rep. Juanita Millender-McDonald > >(California) > >has sponsored a bill to heavily penalize UPS (or any other carrier) ... > For those who are concerned, I looked up Jauniat Millender-McDonald's > email address so YOU can send her email concerning your opposition. If you're not in her district, or even her state, you'll have MUCH more impact if you write or call your OWN legislator. If you can't vote against her, why would she care what you think? - - - - - > From: James Tomlinson <red_beards at compuserve.com> > Subject: 0.08 BAC > > In HBD2673, Samuel Mize wrote about some of my usenet posts and > reprinted some of it. > > I need to make a couple of minor corrections, I posted it to Alt.beer, > not alt.politics (For any who care). It was crossposted to both those groups, and others. > Also, I reposted the information from compuserve's Bacchus forum. > Pete Petrakis posted the original message to compuserve which I posted > in its entirety to alt.beer, with full credit to him. Sorry, I missed the credit line at the top. Please forward my apologies to Mr. Petrakis. Best, Sam Mize - -- Samuel Mize -- smize at imagin.net (home email) -- Team Ada Multi-part MIME message: " ", " ", " " (hands waving) Fight Spam - see http://www.cauce.org/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 11:29:30 -0500 From: Duarte George M NUWCDIVNPT <DuarteGM at code83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil> Subject: sources for rice hulls I recently posted regarding sources for rice hulls and heating elements for RIMS. I like to thank those who responded and will post the sources for anyone else who may need it. Williams Brewing 1-800-555-1212 has NATURAL FILTER MEDIUM 1 lb. Bag M72 $1.65* -Brian Thumm, Ken Sullivan St. Patrick's of Texas http://www.stpats.com sells rice hulls 1 lb-$1.25 , 5 lb-$5.25 - John Vaughn Brewers Resource: 805 555-1212 http://www.brewtek.com - - Kyle.M.DRUEY 1 lb-$1.59 Garden Centers has rice hulls as a growing media. -Corky Courtright I currently contacting Garden centers to see if I can get a large quantity but have not found one that has rice hulls. Maybe this is more common in other parts of the country. Otherwise I'll go with one of the above. Also, since I received no negative feedback on the use of the 3000 W copper electric element, I am planning on using this in my setup. thanks and good brewing George Duarte Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:40:06 -0600 From: Cory Wright <cwright at midcom-inc.com> Subject: RE: Still more .08 Steve Jackson wrote: >In most states, you cannot be stopped unless you are showing >some signs of impairment. This means you have to be weaving, speeding, >crossing the center line, etc. In other words, you have to be doing >something wrong in order to get pulled over. Right, but you can also be pulled over for something fairly benign, regardless of the state of your driving. In many cases, police are fishing for bigger problems. Case in point, a friend of mine was pulled over for a blown headlight. He'd had 2 beers in 1 1/2 hours and passed all the dexterity tests given with flying colors (note that he wasn't pulled over for poor driving). Asked to take a breathilizer, he complied. Now if it had only been a problem with his headlight, he would have been given a warning to get it fixed and let go. Instead, he had his license suspended and was heavily fined. I would hardly have considered him a danger, given that he was demonstrating no impairment. Yet the law still said he was dangerous and must be punished. That's why .08 doesn't fly with me. >If this move is successful (which it almost certainly will be), I really don't see >it affecting many of us one way or another. As shown above, I do. >If you can drive at .08 without any impairment, then you almost certainly >don't have anything to worry about. (It varies from state to state, but random >checks have frequently been ruled unconstitutional.) It doesn't have to be random at all- you can be pulled over for something very minor. You can also be pulled over by mistake- it happens. Hope you don't get pulled over because an officer of the law (or the dispatcher) misreads your license plate. Hope you don't happen to be driving by a "crime scene" (i.e. some kids' kegger just got busted)- you will most likely be stopped. Hope you don't happen to drive through an area that has had problems recently- you will get stopped. ALL THESE HAVE HAPPENED TO ME PERSONALLY. In all cases, I was doing nothing illegal, reckless, or otherwise giving any reason to be stopped. In all cases, it was more beause of a "feeling" on the part of the officer that I got pulled over. In one case, the officer even admitted I was "in the wrong place at the wrong time". Thank goodness that in all cases but one, I hadn't had a drop to drink- this is asked as a matter of course. And in the one case where I'd had a few, I wasn't driving. It concerns me to think that if I'd had a drink, I could have been nailed for "drunk driving". Hey, it's your choice, but unless the law is really hitting the people it's targeting, it's unnecessary. Cheers, Cory P.S. I am in no way impugning the profession of law enforcement, just saying that mistakes are made and some individuals can be a bit overzealous. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 12:16:46 EST From: Malty Dog <MaltyDog at aol.com> Subject: Neo-Prohibition I don't know why some many homebrewers out there are worried about a neo-prohibitionist movement. I'm in favor of prohibition myself. Think about it! If prohibition comes back, all of us will have skills that will be worth quite a bit more in the marketplace then they are now! Cheers! Bill Coleman MaltyDog at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 10:38:30 -0800 From: michael rose <mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net> Subject: Homebrew class > From: "Jim & Shelly Wagner" <wagner at toad.net> > Subject: Homebrewers Weekend Course > > Is anyone out there planning on attending the Homebrewers Weekend Course in > Baltimore? It's put on by the American Brewers Guild and is set for > May2-3, 1998. I'm going and was just curious to see if anyone from HBD is > going. Contact me directly or go to http://www.masterbrewer.com for I just got back from the ABG class held at their brewing school in Woodland, CA. The class is basically a "beginning all-grain class". If you currently do full mashes and have read a couple of homebrew books, then you probably wouldn't benefit much from the class. - -- Michael Rose Riverside, CA mrose at ucr.campus.mci.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:07:53 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: DMS George writes: >Jim is confusing DMS with diacetyl. DMS is produced during the boil, not > during fermentation. While some of it might get scrubbed out during >fermentation by the CO2, it won't get consumed by the yeast. > >DMS is formed by SMM, which is found in high quantities in Pilsner malt. > The high kilning temperature of other malts tends to form DMS and drive >it >off, so that there is less chance of ending up with it in the final >product. Excessive DMS in your beer is usually a result of too gentle and/or >too short a boil. >Keeping the lid on the kettle will also increase DMS. When using pale >ale malt, you may be able to get away with a bit more than when using >Pilsner malt. >An inadequate boil with Pilsner malt (or inadequate ventilation during >the boil) will lead to high DMS levels. I don't think you can fix it at >this stage, sorry. I'm not so sure that Jim is confusing DMS with diacetyl. Some DMS *is* produced during fermentation and some is eliminated during fermentation too. More (not a lot) is eliminated during aging. During the boil, some DMS (that is indeed produced from SMM as George says) gets oxidized to DMSO. During fermentation, some of this DMSO (which does not smell like cooked corn, incidentally) is reduced to DMS by the yeast. Higher fermentation temperatures cause less DMSO to be reduced to DMS than at cooler fermentation temps [MBS p.611]. Furthermore, more DMS is scrubbed from the fermenting beer at warmer temperatures than at lower temperatures [Fix, PoBS, p.142-147]. Slow cooling (I feel) is as much of a cause of excessive DMS as a weak or covered boil. During the boil, produced DMS gets boiled away, but when you cover the pot and start slowly cooling it, DMS still continues to be produced in rather large quantities until roughly about 158F (according to Fix). So, to minimize DMS, use higher-kilned malts and boil vigorously at least partly uncovered (as George pointed out) but also cool fast and ferment warmer (within reason). I cannot find the reference now (I believe it is in Brewing Science edited by Pollock), but I've read where yeast will actually decrease DMS and increase beer sulphate levels during aging! So, lagering will reduce the DMS somewhat, so long as you don't filter or crash cool (shocking the yeast) your beer. Finally, DMS is rather noticeable in many of the finest Koelsches. This comes partly from the fact that Pilsner malt is used, and partly from the fact that cooler fermentations (than British or Belgian Ale production) are common. In my opinion, the best Koelsches do have a moderate DMS aroma (on the order of a pale German lager). Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com My new website (still under construction, but up-and-running): http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
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