HOMEBREW Digest #2716 Mon 18 May 1998

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  DMS appropriateness (Jeff Renner)
  re:Big 10/20, chilling (Charley Burns)
  Re: AHA NHC 2nd-round judges (Amahl Turczyn)
  Yeast Pitching rates ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  More about Yeast ("Don Van Valkenburg")
  RE: stainless steel cleaner (John Wilkinson)
  Kegging/Natural Carbonation (scotty)
  BW in kegs, all-grain monsters ("Ray Estrella")
  Jim Liddil - AHA Christmas Beer ("Raymond C. Steinhart")
  Atlanta (Wyorich)
  Chest freezers (fridge)
  Reasonably priced Gott Source ("Tim Fields")
  Primary Control/Flavor Kits/Sulfur (AJ)
  Metal Corrosion ("Dana H. Edgell")
  Hoppy Deer (MADwand)
  Making crystal malt - another question ("Hans E. Hansen")
  Home Malting ("J.Kish")
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  DMS (Fred Johnson)
  Channeling (Jack Schmidling)
  Calling all beer collectors, DUFF beer for sale. (Jon Bovard)
  Sale on  "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION paraphenalia (AlannnnT)
  Microbiology lab book question (Harlan Bauer)

BURP's Spirit of Free Beer competition is June 6-7 and entry information is available by contacting Jay Adams (adams at burp.org). NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS: hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org (Articles are published in the order they are received.) If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL **ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!! IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to brewery at hbd.org Homebrew Digest Information on the Web: http://hbd.org Requests for back issues will be ignored. Back issues are available via: Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 11:14:28 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: DMS appropriateness "Jeffrey M. Kenton" <jkenton at iastate.edu> wrote: >I also have read >with some very close interest the discussion about DMS and the large amount >in canned worts (as described by GDP). Then in the swiss cheese that is my >brain, I remembered that CAPilsener (as described by Jeff Renner) has DMS >as an allowable taste component. See where this is going? > >Would it be appropriate to use by DMS soaked canned wort as a basis for a >CAP? Are there other beer styles that allow DMS as a flavor component? If >so, what are they? I can't anwer the first question for sure, not remembering the previous post referred to (but that never stops HBDers, does it?). But DMS in canned wort would likely boil off just as in any other wort. DMS is acceptable, arguably even appropriate, in CAP. I usually get some, and I like its contribution. I don't find it cooked-corn like, but more part of what I think of as "beery." It has been historically found at higher levels in midwest beers, apparently because of brewhouse geometry and practices such as long holding of hot cast-out wort. There is more to a CAP than DMS, of course, and I think unabashed corn (not the "corny" aroma of DMS) is part of it. I have stopped using flaked corn (maize) in favor of coarse degermed yellow cornmeal (in lieu of grits) in a separate cereal mash. This produces more corn flavor, I think, and some maltiness. Anyway, it's the traditional manner of using corn, although flakes have been used hitorically as well. DMS is also typical of many Continental lagers. I don't know what the AHA style guidelines say, but it is part of the "beery" sulfur nose of a German pils, for example. I've just been reading Charles Bamforth's "Beer: Tap into the Art and Science of Brewing" (as recommended by Andy Walsh). Bamforth writes (p.63), "Brewers differ in their preference for having DMS in their lagers. Some like it, generally in the range of 40 to 100 ppb, and there are certainly a good many lagers across mainland Europe that have a character substantially determined by DMS at these levels. Other Brewers are adament that DMS is an "off" character that must be maintained at levels below its flavor threshold of around 30 ppb." BTW, when I've finished Bamforth I'll post some thoughts. A preliminary thought or two - it's a pretty good addition to the literature. It fills a previously unoccupied niche - a book written on the "popular" level with technical stuff presented in a way that shouldn't scare off most folks (well, maybe Matt Arnold, B.A., M.Div.). Here's a tantalizer (since Eric Fouch just commented that it was about time for for the botulism thread to rise up again). From p. 72: "It has been proven that those pathogenic bacteria that don't require oxygen are unable to populate beer." Unfortunately, he says nothing on this subject about starters. ;-) Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 98 08:51 PDT From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charley Burns) Subject: re:Big 10/20, chilling Jeremy York asks about air in the headspace of secondary in HBD#2714. If you rack to secondary now (off the trub) and the beer continues to ferment, you don't need to be concerned about the oxygen in the headspace. C02 will continue to be generated and since it's heavier than "air", it will create a protective blanket within minutes. A little oxygenation at this time is ok in a big barleywine (og 1.115!!! - wow) anyway as it may tend to create those sherrylike tastes after a few months of aging. I might even take some of mine as an experiment and slosh it up real good in a bottling bucket just prior to bottling to see what changes it makes in my Big12. chilling - i bounce my chiller all over the place while chilling. If I let the chiller just lie in the wort, it takes 30-45 minutes to chill 5.5 gallons to pitching temp. When I bounce it around and stir it around, I can chill it in 8-12 minutes (faster, better, less waste water). BUT - then I use the chiller to swirl the wort as fast as I can without sloshing it over the side, pull the chiller out and cover the kettle immediately. Let it sit 15-20 minutes while I do clean up, then rack the wort (syphon) to fermenter. The swirl does a pseudo whirlpool job on trub (hot and some cold break) and hop spooge that all ends up in a pile in the middle of the kettle. I then rack from the edge. Produces very clear wort with very little cold break in the fermenter every time. Charley (chilling, bouncing, sloshing and swirling) in N.Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 10:16:08 -0600 From: Amahl Turczyn <amahl at aob.org> Subject: Re: AHA NHC 2nd-round judges Dear NHC 2nd Round Judges, Just a friendly reminder that if you are making plans to judge at the 2nd round of the nationals in Portland, and are staying at the Doubletree Inn, please note that they are booked! We do have a block of rooms reserved for our conference, but if you do not mention specifically that you are with the homebrewers conference, they will tell you the hotel is full. Thanks, and see you there! Amahl Turczyn AHA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 09:17:57 -0700 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <donvanv at email.msn.com> Subject: Yeast Pitching rates At the a recent brewclub meeting I gave out some yeast and a little advice about yeast. There was a very brief discussion that followed, but it didn't go very far because I had no facts to back up my big mouth. I claimed that Wyeast packets, by themselves, are insufficient yeast. Another brewer said he has no problem with just a single pack. The Big Question----- So, how much yeast is necessary for a reasonably good pitching rate without over or under pitching? I looked up a few sources on yeast and here is what I found. George Fix had a chapter on yeast propagation in his book and several pages on yeast pitching that were frankly over my head ---but to the bottom line. He said 1-2 million cells per milliliter per degree Plato of wort. And, he went on to say half that much for ales. Well if you are like me and you are not into counting cells with your microscopes how much is 1-2 million cells? George Fix finally gets down to the nitty gritty a few pages later and says that for a 12 P wort (that is apx. 1.048 for us using the other scale) we should use 400 ml of yeast solids per Hectoliter (1 hectoliter = 26.42 gal.). He also cites a rule of 1/2 Lt. per hectoliter. Now we're getting close to something that will help. We as homebrewers usually do a 5 gallon batch ( apx. 1/5 a hectoliter), thus we should use about 80 ml per five gallons of wort at 1.048 SG. Remember he said half as much for ales. Lallemand labs, (makers of Nottingham, London, Windsor etc.) suggest a pitching rate of 50 grams per hectoliter which would be 10 g of dry yeast per 5 gal of beer. So what are the results of under or over pitching? Zymurgy had this information in their Vol. 18 No. 5 issue: A 1.064 OG wort (16 Plato) from one production brew was split between four 10 barrel fermenters and pitched with 12.8, 30.3, and 74.9 X 106 variable cells per milliliter, respectively. This is the equivalent of one-half to four times the normal amounts used in brewing high gravity lager beers. Fermentation rates were about two hours faster per additional million cells per milliliter pitched. --here comes the interesting part--Increasing the pitching rates resulted in lower IBU levels and lower free amino nitrogen (FAN) utilization. Higher ester levels resulted from lower pitching rates, including an increase in fusel alcohol. Panels found higher hop aroma and hop intensities in low pitch rates. Areation It seems that pitching rates and even aeration of wort may be style specific. An excellent article in Brewing Techniques Vol. 5 No. 2., Pg. 50 (Tracy Aquilla) made a good case for pitching rates being style specific. He says that byproducts of yeast growth are undesirable; it is even preferable NOT to aerate the cold wort! "Avoiding aeration may be particularly desirable when fermenting high-gravity worts that will naturally result in the formation of more esters." ---By pitching a large starter culture, keeping the initial fermentation temperature relatively low, and minimizing (or eliminating) aeration, a brewer can avoid extensive yeast growth during fermentation and the excretion of secondary compounds that naturally accompany reproductive activity. --Tracy Aquilla My Conclusions: (at the risk of over generalization) 1.) The pitching rates cited by George Fix are (I believe) for commercial production but would serve the homebrewer well. Commercial brewhouses want fast fermentation for several reasons; one is simple economics, faster production. Another reason is that bacteria turns over (multiplies exponentially) about once every 20 minutes where as yeast takes about 2 hours. Thus greater pitching rates = less chance of infection. 2.) Pitching (and areation) rates is style and strain specific. If you want a very estery Belgian or Wheat with lots of banana or clove you would want to under pitch. 3.) Use twice as much for lagers as you do for ales and use proportionally more yeast for higher gravity beers. I had informal phone conversations with both White Labs and Wyeast. Rather than paraphrase what I was told on the phone I am copying this text in an email to them and invite both to respond. I also want to say in closing that I find both Wyeast and White Labs products of superior quantity and I have financial no interest in either company. It is just the QUANTITY of yeast I am questing. Disclaimer--- any advice I may give is strictly my own. Use it at your own risk! Comments invited. Don Van Valkenburg donvanv at msn.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 09:22:16 -0700 From: "Don Van Valkenburg" <donvanv at email.msn.com> Subject: More about Yeast For more information about yeast, you can go on line to: Wyeast http://www.wyeastlab.com/index.htm White Labs http://www.whitelab.com/ Lallemand http://www.Lallemand.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 98 12:55:49 CDT From: jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: RE: stainless steel cleaner Stacy Groene asked about stainless steel cleaners. I found them at the grocery store in the cleaning materials section, near where scrubbers, etc. are found. Revere makes one, as do others. John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at wss.dsccc com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 19:51:06 +0000 From: scotty at enaila.nidlink.com Subject: Kegging/Natural Carbonation Hello, I have been kegging my beer for about 2 years now. I have force carbonated all but 2 of the probably 20 batches I've kegged. The 2 I attempted to carbonate naturally didn't come out with much carbonation. I added 1/3 cup of corn sugar and conditioned at room temp for 3 weeks. I added about 5 # of pressure to seat the gasket in the keg. On the first try (about 8 months ago), I wasn't sure everything had sealed. On my more recent try, I was positive everything had sealed correctly. Am I doing something wrong?? Thanks in advance for you help, Scott Rohlf private email is ok. scotty at nidlink.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 21:57:22 -0500 From: "Ray Estrella" <ray-estrella at email.msn.com> Subject: BW in kegs, all-grain monsters Hello to all, Doug Moyer asked, >For my BigBrew '98 (TM) (R) barleywine, I would like to let it age in >bulk in a Corny. Is this a good way to age the BW? Is room temp okay? >(I don't have much space in my serving fridge.) >Also, if I age it in the corny, do I have to worry about bleeding >pressure occasionally? Any other concerns? Yes, yes, no, yes. I age/condition my Barleywines, Strong Scotch Ales, and Imperial Stouts in the keg for about 4 months then CPF into bottles and stick them away for another few months. All at room temp. (64-68f) Even if you are adding priming sugar to the keg, you should not need to relieve pressure. But do make sure that you have a good seal in the first place. A friend and brewer of many gold medal winning BWs told me that he was just reading something about them need true bottle conditioning for proper flavor development, but I do not know where he saw it. Are you out there Steve? And to our wavering all-grainer, taking the step up to all grain brewing does not make you a rude, argumentative, know-it-all. But consuming too much of the end product in front of your keyboard just may do the trick. Ray Estrella Cottage Grove MN ray-estrella at msn.com ****** Never Relax, Constantly Worry....have a better Homebrew ****** Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 22:37:23 -0500 From: "Raymond C. Steinhart" <rnr at popmail.mcs.net> Subject: Jim Liddil - AHA Christmas Beer Jim, Do you know where I can get a copy of Michael Lewis, PhD, 'All Beer made by Homebrewers Sucks' I would like to add this to my Christmas list as I have all the classic series but this one. Thanks. Ray Steinhart - -- My All Electric RIM Brewing System "http://www.mcs.net/~rnr" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 01:11:59 -0500 From: Steve Moore <swm at pdq.net> Subject: Re: AHA ANNOUNCES "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com> didst write: >George Marshall sprechens: >> Jim, I think that you forgot to mention that all beers must be extract >> based with boiled specialty grains and dry RedStar yeast. Also, all >> competitors must sparge hot wort directly into their primaries. >Um, did y'all forget to throw a tablespoon of gypsum into that? Make it 3 tablespoons and don't spare the black patent. Hugs and Kisses, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 05:47:13 EDT From: Wyorich <Wyorich at aol.com> Subject: Atlanta Going to Atlanta in June. Anyone know the "can't miss" brewpubs\microbreweries? Also, is there a kick-ass homebrew store in town; i.e. lots of gadgets and unusual ingredients? Last but not least, a recommendation for a very good golf course would be appreciated. Email is cool. Thanks. Richard in Cheyenne. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 08:05:02 -0400 From: fridge at Imbecile.kzoo.edu Subject: Chest freezers Hi folks, Chuck Cubbler asked about the possibility of resetting his existing chest freezer temperature controller, or replacing it so he could use it as a refrigerator. Most chest freezer temperature controllers can't be set high enough for brewing use. Experiment with what you have to be sure. If you need to replace the controller, I would recommend leaving the existing controller in place, and add an external controller. The external controller can easily be wired into a short extension cord, and the freezer can then be plugged into it. The capillary tube or wire that runs to the remote sensing bulb is small enough to close the door against. The bulb shouldn't touch the cabinet sides - this is where the cooling coils are. I use a small sheet metal bracket to hold the bulb an inch or so from the side.The bracket just clips over the top edge of the freezer, and the door closes against it. There are many suitable temperature controllers available. One of the most popular is the Johnson Controls A19 series mechanical controller. These can be found for between $5.00 to $50.00, depending where you look (check surplus outlets for the lowest prices). My pick for best bang-for-the-buck is Ranco's ETC series digital controller. It is intended to replace controllers such as the A19, and is about the same size and shape. The ETC has an LCD digital display with temperature, differential, and heat/cool mode all adjustable via buttons on the display panel. I paid $40.00 for mine. Whichever controller you choose should be set to use as wide a differential as you can reasonably use. I like 5 degF or so. This prevents short-cycling the compressor, which can drastically shorten its life. I have covered this topic in greater detail in previous postings to this group. Search the archives or email me for more info. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo fridge at Imbecile.kzoo.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 08:49:01 -0400 From: "Tim Fields" <tfields at his.com> Subject: Reasonably priced Gott Source Does anyone have a recent source for a 10 gal Rubbermaid/Gott cooler (preferably online) that is less than $65? I searched the archives, and the main recommendation (Wal-Mart) only has the 5 gal size (searched online and called them). I live within an hour of the factory, but they want $65ish for one. - ------------------- Tim Fields tfields at his.com www.his.com/tfields Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 11:43:58 -0400 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Primary Control/Flavor Kits/Sulfur Wim wrote about making a RIMS heating tube section the secondary of a transformer. While this is conceptually a fine and very interesting idea I'm not sure I'd advocate it. The idea of the tubing which has been contorted to get it around the core springing a pin hole leak and spraying the high voltage primary with conductive wort thus connecting the rims gear to the mains comes to mind. I suppose if the rims gear were solidly grounded this hazzard could be mimimized but I don't really feel comfortable with the idea. Also, the secondary is almost shorted in this application thus the primary will look like an extremely low impedance to the mains and there is probability that the primary will be destroyed. Fuses or breakers will probably protect and anyone willing to try this is doubtless willing to sacrifice a transformer or two. I guess the main point is that transformers are designed (though I haven't done it in so long that I hardly remember the process) starting with the load. This determines the required core area and the "volts/turn" which, in turn, determine the requisite number of turns on primary and secondary. I guess my concern is that as this ad hoc approach does not follow normal design procedures there are lots of potential problems and, as electricity is involved there is the chance of personal injury or fire. As for control of such a device by means of solid state swiches, that works fine and is done all the time. Ahh, the memories. In my first summer job (and I won't say when that was - hint: 4 layer devices for applications like this were just becoming available and replacing the dreaded saturable core reactor as a means of primary control) we did exactly this. Six SCR's were used to proportionally controll the primary of transformers whose secondaries consisted of a few (2 - 6) turns rated for tens of thousands of amperes at low voltages. There is no problem with the transformer here. It was the SCR's that tended to fail in those days. Today you will find numerous devices (look in the Omega catalog) that will do primary control this way. They usually accept 0 - 5 volts or a 4-20 loop control signal (the standard output types from most PID controllers) and are, thus well suited to this application. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Jeremy Bergsman writes about beer doctoring kits. He refers to the British product but fails to mention its most attention getting attribute: the cost! In their literature they even suggest that several breweries in a local area pool resources to buy one of the kits. As I recall it is nearly $2000 and contains enough "spikings" of each of a couple of dozen kinds to do about 25 or so sessions. They also sell a smaller kit (fewer capsules) for about $700. Both are, as far as I'm concerned, out of range or homebrewers or even clubs. I'm not troubled by the idea that these things are in powdered form. There are doubtless ways to adsorb the flavor elements onto solids. For example there is a product which is clearly nothing but diacetyl adsorbed onto some sort of carrier. It is used by people who want butter flavor but no fat. One sprinkles it over food and it is actually quite amazing how buttery the result is (in flavor and aroma - not texture). * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Bill Giffin comments on DMS in beers. I published a recipe for a Pils here a couple of months ago and noted that it never fares well in contests. I nevertheless keep putting it up. In the half dozen times I've entered it I've gotten one, and olny one, comment to the effect that the sulfur note was appropriate to the style. That comment came from a professional brewer but he has been the only judge I've encountered who knows that this component is a requirement (not a falt) in a continental lager. Look at Bill's numbers again. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 17:34:59 -0500 From: "Dana H. Edgell" <edgell at quantum-net.com> Subject: Metal Corrosion HBD, If brass fittings are used with a stainless steel vessel, I understand that corrosion will occur where the two different metals touch. Does anyone out there have more details about the rate/severity of the reaction. How fast will the corrosion occur? Will the brass corrode before the stainless steel? Do I have to disassemble the fittings after every use or can I leave them touching and simply clean them every now and then? How often? I don't want to damage my stainless steel kegs (brass fittings are more replaceable Thanks for any tips Dana Edgell - --------------------------------------------------------- Dana Edgell edgell at quantum-net.com Edge Ale Brewery http://www.quantum-net.com/edge_ale San Diego home of the Water Treatment Workpage Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 22:43:27 GMT From: MADwand at earthling.net (MADwand) Subject: Hoppy Deer On Sat, 16 May 1998 00:15:26 -0400, homebrew-request@hbd.org (Request Address Only - No Articles) wrote: :: ::Anyway, after trying all the useless suggestions like ::hanging human hair, soap and sprays of bone meal, etc.I ::have found that the only way to permanently prevent ::deer attacks ( and they will ) on shrubs and hop vines is ::with bird netting. are you out of bullets or what? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 17:23:50 -0700 From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh at teleport.com> Subject: Making crystal malt - another question The recent posts about making crystal malt mentioned soaking the grain until there is a moisture content of 45%. How do you tell the moisture content? Perhaps weighing, but don't you need to know the initial moisture content (which I doubt would be 0%)? Am I missing something easy/obvious here? Hans E. Hansen hansh at teleport.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 22:22:11 -0700 From: "J.Kish" <jjkish at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Home Malting HBD'ers, It seems that there is a lot of interest in Home Malting of Barley, and other grains. It's not very easy to locate sources of malting barley. To go through all the trouble to do that with what is called "feed barley" is a shame. Surely someone must know where to locate a source of six-row barleys, like "Robust, Morey, Excel, or AB-2601, or some two-row, like Harrington, Klages,or Moravian. Sell us some; We're buying! Best Regards, Joe Kish Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 22:33:30 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report Reinheitsgebot....Revised! "Archival find may push Reinheitsgebot origins back 100 Years.... Historians have attributed the Reinheitsgebot-or German Purity Law-to the Bavarian Duke Wilhelm IV, who decreed that beer ingredients should be regulated in 1516. But the mayor of Weissensee, a town 100 miles southwest of Berlin, has uncovered a document in Gothic script in the city archives that predates Wilhelm's order by almost 100 years. The 1434 Weissensee document, like Wilhelm's, specifies that only water, barley malt, hops and yeast be used to brew beer." "Modern Brewery Age" May 11, 1998. (this info distributed as an educational service only......MBA internet address...<www.breweryage.com> From: "Frederick J. Wills" <Frederick_Wills at compuserve.com> Subject: BW Yeast > I would just like to throw out that with the use of Nottingham >Ale yeast as was specified in the recipe it may well be unnecesary and >undesired to use a second (more attenuative) yeast. Agreed! But as far as undesireable goes, that's the way the original brew was made....Did it make a huge difference? Probably not, as you say. But it was a factor...... Nottingham by Lallemand is a great workhorse of a yeast....good flocc'er, great attenuation, 'highly' ETOH tolerant........IMHO...a grand yeast..... From: "Dr. Pivo" <irv at wireworks.se> Subject: re:Dr. Pivo and >Sorry for the wasted band width Please, Sir, waste my bandwidth as often as you like..... From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Hoppy Deer, Outatown >Like Doug Moyer I live in the midst of out-of-control deer >who decimate all plants, shrubs and trees less than >6 feet high. These deer have virtually destroyed the <SNIP> Damn, Dave goes on vacation, and just 'cos he's annoyed at me, he spitefully sends his trained teams of "Attack Deer" to Iowa!! To wreak their vengeance!!...... (from "Jethro Gump Central News Desk" "Animal Right's Extremists Assault Local Establishment....Are Tranquilized!!" "At approximately 6 am, a daring team of animal activists, revolted at the use of native animal names for a commercial establishment, assaulted "The Raccoon River Brewing Company," of Des Moines. One of the daring pair made a hasty escape, barely eluding authorities, whilst his accomplice, only identified as "Bambi" was captured in a daring counter-assault by law enforcement......" True Story....2 deer crashed a plate glass window of the Raccoon River BP, and proceeded to really do nothing more than freak out...... "Apart from the blood and fur everywhere, they really didn't do much damage," said Chad Wilson, "One of them managed to escape by pushing on the 'Panic Bar" on the door that leads to the patio, and got away.....the other was shot with a tranquillizer gun and carried out by 4 Animal Control Officers." Gee, Dave, next time you go on vacation, can't you send a few assistant brewers instead? Or perhaps some sorority girls who want to write a paper on the "Contrast Between Efficient Extraction at 145 F and 158 F?" Cheers! Jethro Gump "Isn't it funny how three little words can scare men? Like 'No More Beer."" Red Green Rob Moline Court Avenue Brewing Company, Des Moines, Iowa. brewer at ames.net "The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 08:55:43 -0400 From: Fred Johnson <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: DMS A couple of days ago, George De Piro wrote regarding DMS: A great way to learn about how much DMS is formed during the boil is to can some starter wort. Boil the wort in a Mason jar, allow it to cool, then open it up and smell/taste it. To my nose, it goes beyond the somewhat pleasant cooked corn smell and enters the realm of overcooked vegetables. I don't understand the process. Do you mean to boil it in a CLOSED Mason jar? I can't imagine that actually being possible. (And how does one boil in a Mason jar anyway?) If you mean to boil it in an open Mason jar, how do you keep the DMS in? Do you mean to close up the Mason jar immediately at the end of the boil? Among other sources of starter wort, I often save the last runnings of a sparge (before it gets too "thin"), boil this down, put it in Mason jars while it is still hot to minimize bugs growing (even though I don't sanitize the jars), and store these in the refridgerator to use as starter wort later. When I'm ready to use it, I boil this stored wort to insure sterility. But I suspect I have a good bit of DMS in the stored wort since it was closed up in the Mason jars while it was still hot. I am have been somewhat concerned about the quality of this wort as a starter, since this ultimately gets into my next brew. Shouldn't my reboiling and quick cooling of the wort get rid of the DMS? - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 06:20:10 -0700 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: Channeling I agree with Al K on the need to experiment before making flat statements on things such as channeling. In fact, on that subject I will offer my experience which just about makes a flat statement in the opposite direction. First of all, I have never made beer with anything other than an Easymasher so my comments are valid only for it but anyway, I was born with the fear of channeling burned into my brain and not only carefully cut the mash as suggested in a book whose name I have forgotten but also (god what a sentance this is becoming) stirred the mash and allowed it to settle again, about half way through the mash. I did this for a year or so and then did some measurements to see if it was worth the trouble and concluded it was a waste of time. The bottom line is maximum conversion and this is easy to measure. When you think you are done with the sparge, check the gravity on the last cup to come out. Then stir, cut or do whatever you want and draw another cup. If the gravity is the same, you got all the sugar the first time. If it goes up dramatically, you left some behind and need one of the procedures. I have never been able to measure a difference and quit doing either about 5 years ago. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: Beer Stuff......... http://ays.net/jsp Astronomy....... http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 18 May 1998 09:54:20 +1000 (EST) From: Jon Bovard <j.bovard at student.qut.edu.au> Subject: Calling all beer collectors, DUFF beer for sale. Greetings. you may remember back in 1995, someone tried to released DUFF beer on the Aussie market and it was soon banned thereafter. Now it is collectors item and fetching big bucks. Ive got 9 cans unopened and the empty carton all in prime condition. If anyones is interested you can place your bid via EMail or phone me on Australia- 07 38786012. Ive already got a couple of people interested. Cheers Jon Bovard Brisbane Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 22:13:54 EDT From: AlannnnT <AlannnnT at aol.com> Subject: Sale on "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION paraphenalia More important info regarding the AHA "HOLIDAY CHEER" BEER COMPETITION To help prepare for this event, homebrewshops across the country will be offering a special price on preboiled canned flavored Christmas wort kits made by Wort Wizard Works. Buy the wort [and gypsum, Pat] and get two cases of used Miller bottles for FREE! And only if you act now you will receive, absolutely free, an autographed Charli Papoosian heat resistant filter funnel, just right for one step filtering and transfering of that hot wort into your cold carboy. This sale is made possible by a generous grant from the Tell Us a Storey Publications and Amil Turnkey, who plan to publish a book about the event. Remember, your recipe will be held in complete confidence, [on page 32 or 33]. Generous recompense will [not] be shared by all. Just the facts, ma'm Alan Talman Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 May 1998 20:38:43 -0500 From: blacksab at midwest.net (Harlan Bauer) Subject: Microbiology lab book question Does anyone own a copy of MICROBIOLOGICAL METHODS? This is the textbook used at Siebel for their *Brewing Microbiology and Microscopy* course. I'm considering buying it, but it ain't cheap, and I'd like to know a little more about it's contents before I plop down $125. Thanks, and private email would be fine, Harlan. Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can Carbondale, IL To justify God's ways to man. <blacksab at midwest.net> --A.E. Houseman Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 05/18/98, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96