HOMEBREW Digest #2753 Mon 29 June 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: skunk smell (sadownik)
  Nimrod (Dan McLaughlin & Christine Griffith)
  update: bitter/sweet ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Big Brew Labels; Teflon Tape (Charley Burns)
  Counter Pressure Filling (BernardCh)
  A Primer on Steam (Part 1 of 3) ("William W. Macher")
  Corona? Really? (Some Guy)
  No-weld ball valves made easy ("J. Lonner")
  Citric beer/dextrose-malto dex (JGORMAN)
  Carry-On Homebrew and the Airport Security (Dan Schultz)
  Aeration of partially fermented Wort (Steven Gibbs)
  Re: Kettle Drain Fittings NO WELDING! (Krweisel)
  A Primer on Steam (part 2 of 3) ("William W. Macher")
  windscreen (dbgrowler)
  AHA Critique (Jim Liddil)
  CP Filling Mini Kegs (Rick Theiner)
  A Primer on Steam (part 3 of 3) (william macher)
  Where Have All the Posters Gone? (John W. Braue, III)
  brewing at sea;  rims heater control (AKGOURMET)
  Grain mill settings ("Raymond C. Steinhart")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 16:57:51 +0200 From: sadownik at delta.sggw.waw.pl Subject: Re: skunk smell In HBD # 2750 Tom Alaerts asks: "how those crystal-clear bottles of Corona that are in a brightly lit store for more than a week don't develop this bad smell. Does anyone know the reason ?" I'm sure many know and many will answer... but in a context of a recent "fearful lurker" debate decided to show up with my explanation: Skunk smell in beer derives from hop's isoalpha-acids (isohumulones) which decompose in light (energy) splitting off isopentenyl radicals (molecules carrying unpaired electron). These highly reactive species end-up as methylbutenthiols (or methylbutenyl mercaptans) after possible abstraction of thiol group (SH) from beer peptides (cysteine). Anyway, the same methylbutenthiol is a major constituent of a skunk defence excretion. So, Corona and other transparent glass bottled beers must be brewed with a hop extract in which alpha-acids have been previously isomerised (chemically, in slightly alkaline conditions; not prolonged heating as in kettle required ) and resulting isoalpha-acids chemically modified before additon to wort. Modification here is just a carbonyl group (C=O) reduction to a hydroxy group (CH-OH) easy to achieve with a sodium borohydride as a reducing agent. Such modified isoalpha-acid isn't prone any more to easy decomposition in light but retains it's bittering properties. - Do not think bad about chemistry ! - Long live HBD ! Andrzej Sadownik Warszawa, Poland Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:01:32 -0400 From: Dan McLaughlin & Christine Griffith <danchris.mcl at erols.com> Subject: Nimrod Nimrod is also a British designation for one of their military planes, I believe it is similar to a P3 Orion in size and used for anti sub warfare. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:05:41 -0400 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu> Subject: update: bitter/sweet That bittersweet flavor I sense in Domminion Brewery's Hop Pockets is comming from dry hopping. I just kegged a 10 gallon batch, half of which was dry hopped with 1 oz. of Cascade leaf and one that was not. The flavor difference is amazing and the flavor I was looking for. Thanks to all of you who pointed me in the right direction. Also thanks to the great hops from Peterbourough Farms and Fresh Hops. Rick Pauly Charlottesville Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 98 08:22 PDT From: caburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charley Burns) Subject: Big Brew Labels; Teflon Tape Has anyone designed a special bottle label for Big Brew '98? Please send me electronic version of it if you have (bitmap, tiff, gif, etc.). I've got two cases of big brew that I'd like to label for posterity. Got at least a dozen emails that said "use the teflon tape" when attaching the stainless ball valve to the stainless nipple on my new kettle. Got one email that said "don't do it, it'll burn!". Randy E. looked it up and said the burning point of teflon tape was >500F. I used it last night, boiled up some water for a cleaning run and it's just fine. Charley in N. Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:08:25 EDT From: BernardCh at aol.com Subject: Counter Pressure Filling Dave who just started kegging in HBD 2750 asks about CP fillers. . . > I just started kegging and would like to be able to fill bottles > occassionally. The new CP filler from Phil's looks interesting since > it only has one valve and sounds a lot easier to operate than the > 3-valve designs. <snip> Can anyone offer suggestions on a good CP filler? On this forum and others I've noticed every so often people lamenting about how difficult their 3 valve CP fillers are to use. Most comments center around the human body not having enough hands to operate the thing effictively. I kept this in mind when looking to purchase a CP filler and finally settled on the Hoptech (www.hoptech.com) filler (insert standard "no affiliation" boiler plate verbage here). What distinguishes this filler for almost every other filler I remember seeing is that is has only one valve and can literally be operated with one hand, leaving the other hand available for homebrew. The top of the filler at the "T" where the usual valves are placed for the gas and beer lines have been replaced by a 3-way valve. The usual location of the third valve has been replaced by an adjustable spring loaded pressure relief. After calibrating the pressure relief prior to a bottling session (about a 30 second operation) the operation of the filler is simple. Simply place the filler in the bottle, turn the three way valve to the gas side, allow the bottle to flush the air out the pressure relief and fill the bottle with gas. After about 10 seconds turn the valve handle 180 degrees to the beer side. The beer bottle will fill and the excess gas will bleed through the relief. When the bottle is full, shut the beer off (very important - see below), remove the filler and cap. If the beer tends to foam, just a little "feathering" of the escaping gas by placing a finger over the reilef does the trick. Also I disassemble the pressure relief after every use to clean it (2 pieces) - See below. The only complaint I have with the filler is that if you forget to shut the beer off when the bottle is full, a stream of beer ends up shooting out the pressure relief hitting the CP filler operator in the center of the forehead. This, however is an operator problem. Perhaps I should place a government type warning on my bottles (do not drive, operate heavy machinery or CP fill while drinking Homebrew :) Chuck BernardCh at aol.com Music City Brewers, Nashville TN - Music City USA Treasurer, Newsletter Guy, and Webmaster Wannabe Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:19:22 From: "William W. Macher" <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: A Primer on Steam (Part 1 of 3) A Primer on Steam (part 1 of 3) Hello all, I hope there are enough of us out there interested to make this post worthwhile. This write up reflects upon the first step in what I fear has become an odyssey in steam-injected RIMS building...as I have become very good at starting various hobby projects over the last years, and EVEN BETTER and not completing them! But not this one! There is no higher priority than home brewing...is there? Disclaimer...I do not claim to be a Steam Engineer...or even an engineer...or even to exist at all! The following are the highlights of what I have learned recently while digging into the basics of steam, as it may be employed in a RIMS system, as an alternative source of heat in place of the standard electrical heating element.... I was attracted to the idea of building a steam- injected RIMS because I had a gut feeling that steam could have positive benefits. I soon discovered that I had no real knowledge of what steam really was, why it was used, or what made it desirable to use. My first readings on the subject, for whatever reason, made the statement "two plus two equals three" seem reasonable. But I soon learned, after spending a little time digging around, the basic principles are quite simple, once you get the hang of them. The purpose of this posting is to share what I have learned with others who may be interested in applying steam to the brewing process, or just interested in learning a bit about a process that they may not have considered before, while at the same time possibly saving them the need to do the "grunt work" of pulling out the old physics text book, and so on. So here is my interpretation of the facts...accurate to the best of my understanding...hope you find this as interesting as I do. I have attempted to keep the math to a minimum, and stress an understanding of the process. The articles referred to at the end dig deeper into the calculations, and other concerns. Please do check them out. And here we go...!! Steam is an excellent medium for transferring heat energy from one location to another. I think it is the simplicity of steam that caught my imagination. Natural gas, oil, coal, can all be burned to produce heat (Gee, how long did it take you to realize that, Bill ? :-)) This heat can be distributed by using steam as the medium to carry it, or it can be used to produce electrical power ( turn a turbine, which turns a generator...), and electrical power can later be turned to heat with an electrical heating element. Each stage of the process adds its own inefficiencies... What makes steam so good at carrying heat? Just a basic, physical property of the substance we call water [H2O]. I guess it is a law of nature. Water exists in three forms, solid, liquid, and gas. Three phases if you like. When water in any form changes temperature, it either absorbs or gives off heat. To quantify this process, units of heat are used. Common units are the BTU and the calorie. These units simply represent the amount of heat that is required to raise a certain weight of water one degree in the system being considered. The calorie is the metric unit, and the BTU is the British unit. One refers to the amount of heat that is required to raise one gram of water one degree C. The other is the amount of heat required to raise one pound of water one degree F. Surprise quiz: Which is the metric unit? Don't be confused by the differences in these units. Water behaves the same, regardless of how you look at it. I will refer to BTUs here...the numbers are smaller and easier to deal with mentally (at least for me :-))...but calories work just the same way. Let's look at a pound of liquid water. If you add enough heat to raise it one degree F. you have added 1.0 BTU. If you wanted to raise a pound of water from 32 degrees F [just at the freezing point] to 212 F [boiling point] you would have to put 180 BTU of heat into that pound of water. [212-32 = 180]. One pound of water times 180 degrees of change = 180 BTUs required. When water changes temperature, or from one phase to another, it either absorbs or gives off energy, depending which direction the change is going. The interesting thing is that MORE than 1 unit of heat energy is required to change one unit of liquid water to one unit of steam. A LOT MORE. This is the key that makes steam so attractive. Watch these figures closely! To change a pound of liquid water 1 degree F in temperature requires 1 BTU of heat to move either into, or out of, the water. To raise a pound of liquid water from freezing to boiling requires 180 BTUs of heat. To convert one pound of liquid water to one pound of steam requires 1,150 BTUs of heat! BLINK AND LOOK AGAIN! To convert a pound of liquid water to steam takes more than SIX TIMES the amount of heat that it requires to bring that same pound of water from FREEZING TEMPS TO BOILING! That is a LOT of heat energy! I suppose this fact alone does not mean a whole lot... WRONG! This is the key that makes steam so attractive! Because the reverse holds true also. The heat that is input into the pound of water, to make the steam is called the "heat of vaporization." When the phase change goes the other way...that is, when the steam condenses into liquid, it gives off just as much heat as was put into to the liquid water to cause it to change to steam in the first place. This is called the "heat of condensation." Parts 2 and 3 to follow...I love the HBD too! Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:00:37 -0400 (EDT) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Corona? Really? Tom A. asks about skunking and why it doesn't happen in Corona. Huh? Have you tried it? Admittedly, I have not attempted to drink a Corona in well over 9 years, but it was *always* skunked back then. And, one of the oft repeated "jokes" in instructing someone in the making of Corona is to let the carboy sit on the windowsill for a while before bottling. I guess the short answer is that it DOES skunk in the crystal clear glass. I'm not sure what manner of sorcery is employed in the Belgian imported Corona if it doesn't. (Aside: Miller High Life purportedly uses an extract in which the <highly technical compund name of which my feeble mind cannot recall> is removed so that the beer will not skunk in their crystal clear bottle. To the best of my knowledge, the same is not true for Corona.) See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 10:06:18 -0700 (PDT) From: "J. Lonner" <jlonner at u.washington.edu> Subject: No-weld ball valves made easy Brewers, In response to the recent requests for step-by-step instructions on how to install a no-weld ball valve (including tools and part numbers), here's what I did to install one in the converted 10-gallon cornelius keg that I use as a boiler. Swagelok is a company that manufactures and sells industrial valve and tubing supplies. They make bulkhead fittings in different sizes and materials. I bought the 1/2" size in stainless steel (part #SS-810-11-8) and paid $20.50 for it. Pricey, but it's so nice and shiny... Anyway, the fitting is basically a coupling that passes through a wall (bulkhead) and is tightened down by a nut. One end has a compression fitting on it, the other has 1/2" pipe thread (or NPT as you'll see it called in hardware stores). The compression fitting end accepts 3/8" tubing, and I used soft copper to fashion a circular manifold with hacksaw slits in the bottom. This part goes inside the boiler. For outside the kettle, I bought a 1/2" ball valve to connect to the bulkhead fitting, and a hose barb to fit the ball valve. This allows me to direct cooled wort into my fermenter by using vinyl tubing of the sort used in racking. This just happens to fit my needs well; YMMV. Anyway, to install the bulkhead fitting I used a 3/4" bimetal hole saw to drill a hole in the side of my boiler, about 2" up from the bottom. The bulkhead fitting just barely squeezes through this opening. To make the seal more watertight, I used two 3/4" fiber washers (one on each side of the boiler) that I fit over the bulkhead fitting before tightening it down. You then attach the manifold and ball valve to their respective connections, and you're good to go. This setup has worked very well for me (no leakage at all), and makes the transfer of cooled wort to the fermenter very slick. I still get about 1-2" of trub in my fermenter (depending on the grain bill) but I choose not to worry about it. A few caveats: I only use whole hops, under the assumption that they will help to establish a filter bed more effectively than pellets. Also, I haven't tried this setup using Irish moss or a really proteinaceous grain bill. I intend to brew up a wit before too long, however, and we'll see how my manifold handles the goopy hot break I expect to get by using 50% unmalted wheat. Cheers, Jay Lonner Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Jun 1998 13:14:49 -0400 From: JGORMAN at steelcase.com Subject: Citric beer/dextrose-malto dex Has anyone ever tried to use lemon or other citrus fruit in the secondary (particularly in wheat beer)? What was the result and how much did you add? Is dextrose sugar and malto dextrin the same? If they are not is malto dextrin fully fermentable? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 13:01:00 -0700 From: Dan Schultz <dschultz at primenet.com> Subject: Carry-On Homebrew and the Airport Security I have taken carry on homebrew many a time on the west coast without a problem. I have also given out many to work associates that are on their way out of town. Being a frequent flyer, I know better than to pack it in my checked luggage. If you must, I suggest lots of absorbant padding and a sealable bag to prevent leakage and hard side luggage. I happen to have a carry-on size of luggage that holds two six packs nicely. I put it through the X-ray machine which usually draws a search of the bag. I note that it's homebrew and they let me on my way. Maybe because homebrew is so popular in Oregon, the airport security have gotten used to seeing it. I guess if I was drinking Budmilloors all the time and saw someone come through my security post with homebrew, I'd confiscate it too. So offer them a random bottle and they'll probably let you go on your way. Burp, -Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 11:11:04 -0700 From: Steven Gibbs <gibbs at lightspeed.net> Subject: Aeration of partially fermented Wort I have a problem. Yes, those of us who have brewed for years still encounter issues which really confuse us. I brewed a Belgian Tripel OG 1.097 using a conventional grist recipe and adding 2 lbs. of corn sugar to get to my 97. My problem is that I cultured from a slant a 250 ml paste in a 1 liter starter to pitch into my 4 gallons of tripel, and after 4 days of excellent krausen and blow off fermentation my gravity had only dropped to a 1.071 where it has remained for 3 days. Help! On the one hand I want to just drop my stone into the partially fermented wort and blast the heck out of it to re-aerate the brew. By the time you read this I will have already done just that but I have this lingering feeling that I will be creating an intolerable staling effect and other "off" flavors for the long term storage of the hopefully fully attenuated tripel. However, I discussed the problem with another brewer (who originally got me into the hobby some 12 years ago) and his take on the problem was that once the yeast was roused and surrounded by a sufficient amount of O2, that the little worker yeast's will probably scrub out most of the problems that I am worried about as outlined previously. I do understand that my real problem was under pitching and I think that the yeast went aerobic and tried to reproduce to the appropriate level but the available O2 was extinguished before enough viable yeast could grow to finish the ferment. At least it has approx. 4% alch. already which may be enough to inhibit other infections until the aerobic portion ends and I get it back to the anaerobic fermentation level. Happy Brewing Steve in Bakersfield Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 12:38:45 -0400 From: Krweisel at ra.rockwell.com Subject: Re: Kettle Drain Fittings NO WELDING! I've constructed a rather unique post boil Kettle drain / Wort chiller. Might as well add it to the current discussion. I use 3/8" copper tubing, bent into a U shaped top that connects to a 25' 3/8" coper tube in a garden hose chiller. The U part is long enough on the straight section of the U (used upside down) to fit over the top of the boil kettle and siphon the hot wort up and out of the boil kettle, down into the coiled chiller. The outlet of the chiller has a standard 1/2" water valve soldered in line, ending with a 3/8" copper tube. I slide a plastic siphon tube onto the end of the copper and run that into the fermenter. I normally boil in 10 gal batches outside on our back porch, the wort chiller sits about 6" below the bottom of the boil kettle. (left on the propane burner stand) I run the plastic hose through the basement window and down to the fermenters so I can get a good siphon head. No lifting or carrying of any hot liquids, and even the carboy(s) are in the basement at the end. I sanitize by draining the bleach solution from the carboys through the contraption, rinse, and leave filled with tap water with the valve closed to carry it up to the kettle. Then attach the plastic drain hose, open the valve and we're off and running... Simple assembly with no holes / welding in the main kettle, all built with off the shelf copper parts. You may have to look to find the proper compression fittings and such for a 3/8 to 1/2, and to end the hose with a garden "T" compressed onto a 3/8 tube, but all the parts are available. Why bother drilling holes and welding stainless, let gravity siphon it ! Karl Weisel - Cleveland Heights, Ohio. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 14:44:17 From: "William W. Macher" <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: A Primer on Steam (part 2 of 3) A Primer on Steam (part 2 of 3) Hello again :-) A few more details... Since so much energy is absorbed in during the transition from liquid to vapor, the steam can be transported via a pipe, and then condensed where the heat is needed. When the steam condenses, the "heat of condensation" is released. The net effect, especially if the lines transporting the steam are well insulated, is practically the same as if the heat source itself were located at the end of the pipeline, where the steam condenses and gives off it tremendous heat content. The temperature at which liquid water changes to steam is dependent on pressure. At sea level the conversion from liquid to vapor occurs at 212 degrees F. As elevation increases, pressure decreases, and the temperature at which liquid water changes to vapor decreases...water boils at lower temperatures on mountain top...as we all know. If the pressure on the liquid water is increased, say like in grandma's pressure cooker, the boiling point increases...at 15 psig (Pounds per Square Inch Gage, which means 15 pounds above normal air pressure) the boiling point increases to about 250 degrees F. When heat is applied to liquid water and this water reaches the boiling point, the temperature "locks in" and holds at the boiling point, and the water begins changing state and turns to vapor. This vapor is what we call steam. If we heated alcohol it would also reach a point at which it changed to vapor, but naturally we would not call this steam. I know it is an obvious point... What is less obvious, is that the temperature inside the vessel will not increase above the boiling point of the water (at the given pressure) until all the water has completely turned to steam. Anyway, the steam generated in a pressure cooker will be at the temperature of the liquid within the pressure cooker. And the liquid in the pressure cooker will be at the temperature determined by the pressure within the pressure cooker. This is normally a function of the litter "jigger" that rests on the top of the cooker and "chuga, chuga, chugas" as the potatoes are being cooked...The reason we state that our canned wort (for yeast starters) needs to be pressure cooked at 15 psig to kill the botch....[Oh, no! Not THAT again] ...spores is that by stating the pressure we ensure that the temperature is high enough. 15 psig = 249.8 F, while 5 psig = 227 F. A couple other points to consider: What is a pound of steam? Simply the amount of steam that is generated by converting a pound of liquid water to steam. How much water is in a pound? A gallon of water weighs 8.33 lb., so a quart of water is about 2 lb. So roughly, a pint of water is a pound, more or less. Would direct injection of steam add liquid volume to the mash? Yes...a pound of water, converted to steam, and injected into the mash would add a pint of liquid to the mash. When water turns to steam, how much does it expand? The density of water at atmospheric pressure at sea level is about 59.8 LB per cubic foot (at 212 deg. F). Steam density at the same pressure/temp is 0.037 LB/Cu. Ft. The amount of expansion is therefore 59.8/0.037 which equals 1,602. In other words, when a quantity of water is converted into steam, it expands to 1,600 times its original volume. Conversely, when steam condenses, a bubble of steam will reduce to 1/1600 its original size, as it gives off its Heat of Condensation and becomes a tiny drop of liquid water. How much steam might I need to mash the grains for a 10 gal batch? Well, let's see... Using round numbers, lets just work with plain water, and assume that the extra water compensates for the grain that would normally be in there. Let's use 10 gal of water to represent the mash mix, for simplicity. Let's also raise the 10 gal of water from 100 F to 150 F, and follow that by a temp raise to 167 F. (I know this "over simplifies" the real situation, but it certainly does convey the basic principles.) 10 gallons of water weighs 83 lb. Temperature rise from 100 to 150 F is 50 degrees. BTUs needed for this temp rise is 83 x 50, or 4,150 BTUs. A pound of steam gives off 1,150 BTU when it condenses. 4,150/1,150 = 3.6 pounds of steam is required. Since a quart of water is about 2 lb., about 1.8 quarts of water would end up in the mash as the result of the steam condensing there. Naturally, the condensate would be at 212 degrees F, and it would add some heat as well, but the condensate would add less than 10 percent of the total requirement, the "seat of my pants" tells me. Moving up to mash-out temp, is only a 17 degree rise. 17 x 83 = 1,411 BTUs required. 1,400/1,150 = 1.25 pounds of steam. This equates to a little over a pint of condensate that will be added to the mash. I know this is simplified, but I think it conveys the point well. To heat 8 gal of water from 100 to 167 F, using steam, results in an additional 2.5 quarts of water condensing in the tun. Add something for temp loss during the mash, and the net result is still less than a 10 percent increase in liquid. Part 3 of 3 to follow... Let's all spend a moment to thank the Janitors for their work in keeping the HBD alive and well... Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 17:44:21 -0400 From: dbgrowler at juno.com Subject: windscreen Tim writes: "I am thinking of making a sleeve to go around my cajun cooker. The Idea that I have is to cut a 55 gal drum perpendicular to its axis at a length that would just be taller than the top of the burner. The reasons for this are to block the wind (I brew outside) and to focus the heat on the bottom of the converted keg boiler. If anyone has done this before I would greatly appreciate the do's and dont's." DO provide some means for air intake, or the burner DON'T burn too well! Put lotsa air holes or slots in your windscreen below the burner level to allow air in for combustion, or make "legs" to keep the bottom of your wind baffle a few inches off the ground. Mike Bardallis Boiling over in Allen Park, MI _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 15:58:07 +0000 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at azcc.arizona.edu> Subject: AHA Critique This is an AHA post, PAGE DOWN NOW if you don't want to read this. But first on the issue of bandwidth. Get real. I bet the majority of ISP's have unlimited use limits (or like IBM.net,100 hours) so I really doubt in this day and age people are paying to download the HBD. I am sure their are exceptions to this. Also the bandwidth of the HBD is a drop in the bucket compared to the bandwidth used browsing the web. Look at the hbd.org page itself and the way it has banners that constantly reload. Three of the listservs I get generate more stuff in one day than the hbd does all week. Make the digest come out twice a day at 12 and 1 am. Brewery.org is one of the few sites that has not gone to the groovy java, frames etc. model. It looks essentially like it did from it's inception. Remember how web pages used to look? You can always unsubscribe and read the hbd via html. Which reminds me the brewery.org is only as good as the links. So if you know of any broken links let the janitors know so they can fix them. So now how can we get rid of the AHA? As far as people saying "let's work to improve the AHA". Check the rcb and hbd archives and you will see that people have been "trying" for years. It's won't work until Castro (Charlie p, I like the analogy someone used, beard, cigar) is dead! People keep saying how they started out with the NCJOHB etc. Well there have been many leaders of fanatical groups who at the time were viewed as great and also wrote books. Mao (little red book), Hitler (mein kampf), marx (communist manifesto) come to mind. History ultimately decided they were not so great. Stalin also comes to mind. I see parallels between Hitler and Charlie in the way they try to use their speeches to get people into a crowd mentality (RDWHAHB). Many of these leaders tried to conquer the world and started out small. Look at Charlie he started in homebrewing and now is holding boondoggles all over the world. And many of these "leaders" had henchmen to do their dirty work. Hitler had the Gestapo and the SS. Charlie has Cathy Ewing to spill the blood. Why do you think Jim Parker and Amahl bailed? Granted they had other opportunities, but recall how positive they were about "change" a year ago? Recall the post about judges being dis-invited to the party in Atlanta "Charlie only wants Brian and the lady who disinvited us" Guess who that lady was? Remember that is was the AOB that screwed up the hbd a while ago and made various excuses about what happened. The AHA talkback forum is a joke. Weeks go by with no one from the AHA posting and then they make all sort of apologies. Check it out for yourselves use 31621 as an id and 013198 as a password. Again I'll reiterate that the AOB lists on their tax form as their PRIMARY reason for tax exemption "promotion of homebrewing". So why aren't they spending more money on Zymurgy than they do on The New Brewer? Why are they spending money on the 1998 International Beer Executives Symposium rather than spending the money to make sure the NHC is run correctly? "Boulder, March 3, 1997 ~ The curtain is ready to be raised as the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) unveils a "new AHA" to the organization's more than 23,000 members. Based on input from members and the homebrewing community, the AHA has added new membership benefits designed to appeal to a wider variety of homebrewers and improved responsiveness to members with new programs and operating procedures. " Here we are a year later. Same as it ever was. >More Book Discounts By screwing over the small retailer >Brew U, the long awaited beer evaluation program, is approaching roll-out! A complete class schedule and in-depth self-study course will be available in April 1997. Non existent. We don't need the AHA or the NHC. I think homebrewers can get along fine with BJCP sanctioned comps. The AHA is doing nothing to help improve competitions or train judges. More Disinformation: "Representation has also been addressed. In an effort to better represent the membership as a whole, the AHA Board of Advisers has expanded from 12 to 15 members. The Board's role has also been expanded allowing Board members more opportunities to provide input and become directly involved with programs. A new Board subcommittee structure will also be adopted. In addition, a new Association of Brewers (AOB) Board of Directors liaison position has been created. A member of the AOB Board of Directors will be actively involved with the AHA Board of Advisers, giving AHA members a direct link to the AOB governing Board." I don't know about you but the AOB looks like the USSR to me. Propaganda and disinformation. We never hear a peep out of the BofA one way or the other. How the heck can they be representing us if they never ask us our opinions? "A new Association of Brewers (AOB) Board of Directors liaison position has been created. A member of the AOB Board of Directors will be actively involved with the AHA Board of Advisers, giving AHA members a direct link to the AOB governing Board. " Again I'll ask who is this person? I'll be spending my money at Siebels rahter than the NHC conference and I Imagine by the time this hits the queue that's where I'll be. Jim Liddil Tucson, AZ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 20:22:27 -0400 From: Rick Theiner <logic at skantech.com> Subject: CP Filling Mini Kegs >> I will need to get a bung to fit the 7/8 inch hole in the mini-keg in >> order to fill it with the CP filler. Does anyone know the bung >> size/number for this diameter? I have done this by using a #8 rubber stopper. It doesn't actually plug the hole properly, but due to the flat surface around the hole of the mini-keg, it does provide a pretty good seal. - -- Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. LOGIC at skantech.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 19:47:33 From: william macher <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: A Primer on Steam (part 3 of 3) A Primer on Steam (part 3 of 3) Hi, back again :-) The grand finally...like at the end of the fireworks... Is that how you spell it? A possible advantage to steam over an electrical heating element is that it is self limiting; that is, the maximum temperature it can impart into the mash is whatever the steam is generated at. This is set by the physics of the system. Directing steam from a pressure cooker into the mash should result in a very low pressure steam. There is little back pressure felt by the steam at the injection point, and the temperature of the steam is a set by the pressure at which it is generated. This pressure will be the sum of the pressure drop in the steam line and the pressure of the liquid at the injection point. [comments on super-heated steam to follow momentarily ]. So it is very likely that the maximum temperature one would experience with steam sent directly from a pressure cooker to the mash would be about 220 F (2 psig). If the pressure in the pressure cooker were 5 psig, the steam temp would be 227 F. This should eliminate the likelihood of scorching. Steam may be a kinder, gentler heat source for a RIMS application! Super-Heated Steam While steam as generated by boiling of water will be at the temperature of the boiling water, it is possible to raise the temperature of the steam. This would be done if you wanted to boil the wort in your kettle with steam, rather than by using a flame under the kettle. It is unlikely that super-heated steam would be an advantage in the mashing application, and more likely that it would cause problems with over heating of the grain in the area of injection, if direct injection were used. One way of super heating steam is to take the steam line that brings the steam out of the kettle, and make a coil of tubing [ stainless steel tubing] that can be put in the flame under the pressure cooker [see: Steam Injection, by Charlie Scandrett, referenced below]. The steam comes out of the pressure cooker at near 220 degrees F. As it passes through the coil of tubing in the burner's flame, it will increase in temperature. The amount of temperature increase will be a function of coil length, steam flow rate, and burner used. It will certainly be a good bit above the boiling point of the wort in the boiling kettle. Super-heated steam can be used to boil water/wort if desired. It has been reported that using steam is advantageous when brewing very light beers. Seems reasonable, as again, the maximum temperature inflicted on the wort would be a function of the steam temperature. And the steam temperature, even when super heated as described above, if very likely significantly lower than a gas burner flame under the kettle. Another advantage of using steam for wort boiling would be that the boiling kettle sides and bottom could be fully insulated. It has also been pointed out that the condensate which is results from steam injection can replace evaporative losses incurred during the boil. Please refer to the following additional articles related to using steam in home-brewing: Steam Injection, by Charlie Scandrett, at: http://www.brewery.org/brewery/library/SteInjCS1295.html Direct Injection of Steam for Mash Temperature Control, by Kelly E. Jones, at: http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.4/jones.html There is also a neat beta shareware Water and Steam Properties program that runs under Windows NT or Windows 95, at: http://users.lia.net/katmar/wasp.htm And...1995 was an especially good year for discussion of steam injection on the HBD. You might want to search the archives.... As my experience in the fabrication of a steam injected RIMS continues, I will post updates if there is anything of interest to report. Hope this is of interest! Bill Thank you Janitors! Thank you contributors! The HBD is great! Let's keep the positive vibes flowing! Bill Macher macher at telerama.lm.com Pittsburgh, PA USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 21:08:01 From: braue at ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III) Subject: Where Have All the Posters Gone? In HBD #2750 "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> writes: >Sam Mize wrote: > >>>... people with good opinions are being >>> driven off-line for fear of impending head bashing. > >>I am pleading with anyone who agrees with that comment. > >I'm afraid I must as I remember one case from the past well. I can't >remember what the post was about but the poor guy got just about >everything back ass. There was nothing reasonable to do but write the >guy privately and say something like "Gee, I'll bet you haven't looked >at this stuff in a while because water isn't really 13 times heavier >than mercury, it's the other way around". I did this but several others >chose to flog this poor guy publicly. He sent me private e-mail saying >that he'd never post here again, and he hasn't. I've also noticed that >some of the names I used to see don't appear here any more. There are >lots of reason why this may be true but I know of at least one case >where it was the tone that drove a contributor off. It just never, ever >hurts to be kind. And Charles L. Ehlers <clehlers at flinthills.com> suggests: >Subject: Re. Fearful lurkers, please help me > >Sam, > I'm not a *fearful lurker*, but can understand why some may be hesitant to >post. > First, HBD can appear to be a place for advanced brewers only. Second, in >the past year (the time since I first subscribed), HBD has become quite a >nasty place. Third, there is a slight tendency toward, not so much >arrogance, but more like an over-inflated sense of importance or >snobbishness by some of the experts. Well, I haven't been in a good fight in hours, so permit me to waste some bandwidth on this topic. I haven't posted to the HBD in months. I no longer brew, and will probably never brew again, as my health has deteriorated to the point where it is unsafe for me lift a kettle of boiling wort (I'm typing this one-handed, as my left hand is, as is usual at this time of night, a paperweight). Nonetheless, I still subscribe to and read the HBD. I enjoy it, I find it interesting, even the discussions about rechnical trivia of brewing methods far beyond those that I ever mastered, or even attempted. I certainly hope that my reason for abstaining from posting is not that of everyone whose .sig has vanished from the HBD. Still, we must concede that the HBD is not the be-all and end-all of existence. There are good reasons for not posting, or even not subscribing, to any given mailing list. Short of polling everyone who has ever posted an article here (and a representative sample, and honest answers, and...), the reason why names have vanished will likely never be known. OTOH, I remember a lot of names (the owners of some of which provided me with substantial help at times) from a few years ago. As for the chap who stated that water was 13 times heavier than mercury...if that was the only glaring error in an otherwise sensible post, it might well have been a typo (I was famous in other circles for that sort of mistake). If everything was "back ass", however, he was probably butt-ignorant, and no more to be tolerated than someone who claimed that a daily dose of prussic acid would give one a shiny coat. - -- John W. Braue, III braue at ratsnest.win.net I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:10:22 EDT From: AKGOURMET at aol.com Subject: brewing at sea; rims heater control >Steve Cloutier offers a gimballed carboy stand as a solution to Keith >Zimmerman's friend's problem of brewing at sea... >Hans Geittmann suggests using a carboy handle ($5) and hang the carboy >from a piece of rope attached to a sturdy beam with a hook somewhere on the >boat- basically a pendulum instead of a gimbal mechanism. I wouldn't trust a carboy handle to support a full carboy. However, one of those carboy slings that uses nylon webbing looped under the bottom of the carboy would probably work. I also like the idea of fermenting in a corny keg - -- they have built in handles for suspending from something (pendulum-like) and won't break if they happen to fall or bump into something. - ---------------- Now for my question: I'm in the process of designing a RIMS (recirculating mash infusion system) and would like to know what is currently available for a heater controller. I don't want to spend the money for a PID right now, so I'm looking for something less than $100 that will maintain a constant temperature without me having to stand there and fiddle with it. Circuit plans are fine. I don't understand how they work, but I can solder and follow instructions and we have a Radio Shack here. I have the old Zymurgy gadget issue with Rodney Morris's plans, but I've read some reports that there are flaws. Does anyone have updated plans? I've read most of the digest archives and visited several RIMS web pages. So far, I like Keith Royster's system the best, and C.D. Pritchards CAD drawings are great. Also thanks to Dion (I forget his last name) for lots of good information in the digest archives. Thanks for any help. Private email is fine or through the HBD. Bill Wright Gourmet Alaska - The Quality Kitchenware Store & Homebrew Supply Juneau, AK Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 26 Jun 1998 22:23:17 -0500 From: "Raymond C. Steinhart" <rnr at popmail.mcs.net> Subject: Grain mill settings John, as I recall you asked about a specific grain mill. I use a Valley mill. I use about .049" for two row pale and .035" for wheat malt. Probably no one wants to be chastised for having too fine of a crush or too course of a crush or not having good efficiency with this crush or that crush. You get the picture? I was told to have only husk and endosperm. I got extremely poor efficiency. I try for 1/3 flour 1/3 husk and 1/3 endosperm. I think I am about 75-80% efficient. I don't have a haze problem and sometimes I forget to use Irish moss. Hope this helps - -- My All Electric RIM Brewing System "http://www.mcs.net/~rnr" Return to table of contents
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