---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Munich malt / Brewing all-grain vs. extract ("George De Piro")
  Question re: Brown Malt (LEAVITDG)
  recipe questions (Wheeler)
  Re: Utilization (David Sherfey)
  yeast storage under sterile buffer solution ("Dave Whitman")
  the mystery of the massively foaming alt ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Receptacle testers (fridge)
  Henry Weinheardt's Amber / pH Test strips (keith  christiann)
  oak cask primary (Jon Sandlin)
  Drying malt? (Jon Sandlin)
  Thermostat for Freezer ("Mark Vernon")
  Re:SHMS vs. HERMS/Grain Mill Update ("Ludwig's")
  Re: On combining decoction and household chores ("Greg Lorton")
  Sanitizer Solution Shelf Life (Randy Shreve)
  Presenting:  The BrewPot Stretcher (Randy Shreve)
  Scrubbies and Malt Freshness (Fred and Sue Nolke)
  Gott URL for impaired UK brewer. :-) (Jean-Sebastien Morisset)
  Kolsch yeast in high-gravity beer / All-grain brew with Munich malt (it was Weisenheimer) ("Ed D'Anna")
  MCAB Update (Louis Bonham)
  re: SS Pots (jeff)
  Munich Dunkel ("Rob Jones")
  Time to Brew ("Steinkamps")
  partial mash (JPullum127)


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Date: Fri, 23 Oct 98 22:53:12 PDT
From: "George De Piro" <gdepiro at fcc.net>
Subject: Munich malt / Brewing all-grain vs. extract

Hi all,

Dave talks a bit about Munich malt, pondering the current state of malt
quality, etc.  He postulates that home production of Munich malt may
be a good way to get a quality malt.

George Fix (and his deity, de Clerck) have said that modern Munich malts
are generally inferior to the stuff that was produced in the last 
century.
It seems that much of this impression comes from the fact that higher-
protein barleys are now used for Munich malt than in the past.  Fix also
talks about flavor differences that he has read about (he isn't old 
enough
to have first hand experience; I don't think any of us are).  Perhaps it 
would
a good time to have the first George throw in some comments before I
paraphrase him to death?

If you read the general specs for German Munich malts that are available 
to us
in the US you will indeed find that they are higher in protein than 
quality pils
malt (by about 2-3%).  The maltsters claim that they seek out this barley
 because
it yields higher levels of amino acids during malting, which are then 
transformed
into melanoidins in the kiln.  I have wondered (out loud in this forum) 
if this is
really necessary:  there should be more than enough amino acids present
in a barley with 10% protein to yield a plethora of melanoidins upon 
kilning.

That said, Briess malting has a Munich malt made from low-protein 2-row 
barley.
I have some here, but have not brewed with it yet.  It is lighter in both
 color and
flavor than any German Munich malt I have used.  It is quite pleasant; 
a rich malty
aroma with a hint of vanilla; the flavor is a touch sharp, without the 
toastiness that
I find in some of the German Munichs (especially Weissheimer).  I find 
it quite soft
and mealy to chew.

Weissheimer Munich malt is darker, and produces a very toasty wort.
Its flavor is quite a bit mellower than the Briess malt, with less of the
 sharpness.
It also seems to be less fresh smelling than the domestic stuff, and has 
more of
a crunch up front, although it is not too hard.

I have also brewed a lot with Weyerman Munich malt.  I find that it has 
a very rich,
malty aroma with lots of vanilla and toastiness.  The worts I have made 
with it are
quite good, but I think the Weissheimer ends up smelling toastier (this 
could be
in part due to the darker color of the Weissheimer malt).  Weyermann 
malt, like
Weissheimer, is made from barley with relatively high protein levels.

The low-protein Briess is somewhat less-rich smelling/tasting than the 
German stuff.
Could there be something to the German maltster's desire for higher 
protein barley,
or is it just differences in the kilning methods?  Hmmm...

As for making Munich malt at home:  the homebrew book method of toasting
pils or pale ale malt is NOT going to produce Munich malt.  Munich malt 
is more
closely related to Cara (crystal) malts than pils malt.  It is kilned at 
50C (122F) while
still fairly moist (to break down proteins) and then kilned at 
saccharification temperature
while still at about 20% moisture to produce some sugar in the endosperm.
  The malt is
then cooled and dried before kilning goes any hotter, thus preserving 
some of the enzymes
(so it can easily self convert) and preventing the grain from becoming 
"glassy" (like
crystal malt).

Duplicating this process at home is NOT easy!  I have tried it and failed
 miserably.
The major problem I had was inadequate temperature control of the kiln 
(my oven).
The malt must be kept moist and yet be heated to a fairly precise 
temperature.  This
is no small feat to accomplish at home!  I am not trying to discourage 
others, just know
that to succeed you need a better kilning method than being a human 
thermostat or
putting the malt in a clothes dryer.

In summary, I have obtained good results with both Weyerman and 
Weissheimer Munich
malts and use them both regularly.  I even use them in English-style 
beers that I want to
endow with a touch of toasty-malt flavor.  I say that you can use malt 
from any country
you want in any beer you want.  This is America, damn it, a great melting
 pot!
- --------------------------------------------------
Alan asks for people to chime in with their opinions about brewing 
all-grain vs. extract,
particularly with regards to the time it takes for each process.

My recent Brewing Techniques article (which is on-line at their web site)
 addresses this
very issue.  Yes, all-grain brewing takes substantially longer than 
extract brewing.  I usually
spend 12 hours (when all is said and done) to brew all-grain (yeast 
propagating to clean-up).
Keep in mind that I work in an incredibly small space and have to use 
certain vessels twice
(or more), so I need to clean them in-process.  This coupled with other 
inefficiencies (like
walking the dog, eating, etc.) slow me down.  My brew day could be 
reduced by 3-4 hours
easily.

On the other hand, I brewed an extract batch for a class I was teaching 
a few months ago
in about 2 hours time, start to finish, with 10 people "helping."  You 
cannot deny that their
is a BIG difference in the amount of time you spend brewing all-grain vs.
 extract.

So why brew all-grain?

To me, brewing time is FUN time, and that is a good thing!  I don't mind 
taking a couple
of days each month to brew.  It makes me feel good.  The control over the
 process is one
big reason to brew all-grain.  Extract brewers don't know what they are 
getting in most extracts.
I know exactly what kind of wort I will get because I am making it.

I believe that you cannot deeply understand something until you actually 
do it.  That is another
reason I love all-grain brewing.  My knowledge of the process and the 
product increased
dramatically after I started mashing.  You gain an intimate knowledge of 
your basic ingredients,
and that makes a difference in your growth as a brewer.  Even if you 
don't have the time to
brew all-grain regularly I believe it is something that all brewers 
should try at least a couple
of times.  Join a homebrew club and brew with an all-grain brewer one 
day.  All the stuff
you've read about will be gloriously illustrated, and you'll appreciate 
your beers that much more.

Enough preaching, have fun!

George de Piro  (Nyack, NY)


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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 07:12:30 -0500 (EST)
From: LEAVITDG at SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU
Subject: Question re: Brown Malt

I recently saw some "brown malt" in a local hb supply, and decided to try
it out.  I did NOT, unfortunately, ask for the specific name of the malt,
but purchased 4lb.
The next day I added this 4 lb of brown malt to 4lb of Mairs Otter Pale malt,
along with 1 lb flaked barley, and about 1/3 cup of Black Patent.  Protein
rest (a la Miller), conversion for 2 hours, etc....
The pH was much more acidic than I'd expected...which led me to believe that
I may have made the mistake of using a malt that was highly modified....ie
that I used too much of it.
Is this a malt that should be used like crystal, in which case 1 lb or so
would be the upper limit?
The mash had a wonderful aroma....
 ...Darrell


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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:18:56 -0400
From: Wheeler <wheeler at netaxs.com>
Subject: recipe questions

I have several recipe questions for the HBD "cooks".

I enjoy the flavor of roasted sesame seeds and especially like the flavor
of the sesame seed oil that I use when I make a lo mein. Has anyone tried a
recipe using sesame seeds? Is there a way to get the flavor without the
risk of getting oil into the brew? 

In the current issue of BYO there is mention of using "a couple of ounces
of uncrusthed chocolate malt" as a way of getting a nutty flavor in a light
lager. I have no way of lagering so I going to brew a pale ale using 99%
breiss pale ale and say 1% uncrushed chocolate. Will that amount of
chocolate give this brew a nutty flavor? And what about mixing this nutty
flavor with cascade? I would normally add a good amount of cascade hops,
almost to the point of making an IPA.

TIA for any suggestions.

Red Wheeler
in Blue Bell, PA

Take a look at my new website with a few pictures of my RIMS.
http://www.netaxs.com/~wheeler




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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:24:30 -0400
From: David Sherfey <sherf at warwick.net>
Subject: Re: Utilization

Sean Murphy asks;

> 1.  When determining Utilization % do I use the pre boil gravity and
>the time or the post boil gravity and the time?

You'll get a number of opinions on this....What I do is look at the
process from the material's perspective--what is the hop going to see
when it goes into the wort?  It sees the gravity at that moment, so
that's what I use.   Most of the bitterness will be extracted within the
first half hour,and (assuming a boil reduction of 10-15% per hour) the
gravity will not change tremendously during that time, perhaps 5 points,
so the gravity change will not be a significant factor.   Time=contact
time.

>2.  Does using either value have a tremendous effect either way?

Use your hop-go-round and compare the difference.  Buy similar hop level
beers and taste the difference)

>When inputing the value for volume in gallons, do I use the volume at
>the beginning of the boil, the volume in primary, or the final volume

To make it easy, I would say primary volume.  You could split hairs and
determine how much cold break and yeast (remember, though, it *grows*)
you have and dial that in for max precision, but.....Again, use your
calculator to figure the difference.

Cheers!
David Sherfey
Warwick, NY



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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 09:23:51 -0400
From: "Dave Whitman" <dwhitman at fast.net>
Subject: yeast storage under sterile buffer solution

I've been storing my yeast library under sterile distilled water for 4 years
now, reculturing every 6 months and only once loosing a culture during
storage.  I wrote an article in the technical library at the Brewery Web
site, summarizing the technique:

http://www.hbd.org/brewery/library/sterileDW1096.html

About every six months, someone who knows more biology than me writes to
suggest that the technique might work better if I substituted a salt
solution for the distilled water to minimize osmotic pressure.  Peter Selby
is the most recent person to make this observation, with the added
suggestion that the salt could be chosen to control pH during storage:

>I have just come across your article about storage of yeast in sterile
>water.
>
>This scenario seems all well and good but what concerns me is the fact
>that yeasts require a solution that exerts a similar osmotic pressure to
>that inside the yeast cell, otherwise the cell will be constantly under
>positive or negative pressure which will inevitably affect or even
>rupture the wall over time. Also a lower pH than 7 is ideal.
>
>Literature that I have read from journals at Carlton and United
>Breweries (Home of Fosters etc..) state that for the best long term
>storage, a 2% solution of Potassium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (KH2PO4)
>is recommended because it has a very similar osmotic pressure and it acts
>as a buffer staying at a pH of ~4.4.

After a 3-way email conversation with Peter and our local microbiology guru
Steve Alexander, I ran an experiment to test whether adding the buffer
provided any benefit.  RESULTS OF MY EXPERIMENT SUGGEST THAT KH2PO4 BUFFER
SUBSTANTIALLY IMPROVES YEAST SURVIVAL DURING EXTENDED STORAGE.

Experimental Details:

Cultures of Wyeast 1968 and 3068 were grown on SG 1040 wort agar slants.
Vials containing either reverse osmosis water or r/o water with 2% KH2PO4
were pressure cooked for 20 minutes at 15 psi, then allowed to cool to room
temperature.

Small samples of yeast solids were transferred into the vials using a
flame-sterilized loop.  The vials were then sealed and stored at room
temperature in the dark.  A total of 4 vials were prepared: 2 yeast strains
each under either r/o water or 2% buffer.

After 3 months, I estimated viability of each sample using the methylene
blue test given at: http://www.cbs.knaw.nl/publications/online/2aquic.htm

Dead cells get stained blue, whereas live cells bleach the dye and remain
unstained.

For each vial, I counted stained and unstained cells in multiple regions of
at least two microscope slides.  A minimum of 800 cells were counted for
each vial.  The percentage of unstained cells was calculated for each region
examined, and an estimate of stdev was made by comparing the results for
each region.

Results:

                 --- % unstained cells ----
Yeast Strain     pure water     KHP buffer
1968             77 +/- 9       97 +/- 2
3068             88 +/- 4       96 +/- 1

The effect is rather dramatic.  For Wyeast 1968, the number of dead cells
was 8 times higher in the pure water sample than in 2% buffer!  T-tests
indicate that the increase in viability in the buffer relative to r/o water
is statistically significant for both yeast strains.

Limitations of the experiment:

My statistics are just a bit bogus, because the samples aren't totally
independent.  It'd be better to estimate viability on multiple vials for
each treatment, rather than multiple microscope fields all from a single
vial.

Methylene blue tests for the presence of one specific enzyme.  While lack of
staining supposedly correlates with viability, this isn't a direct test of
the yeast's ability to reproduce or ferment.

Why the buffer performed better isn't clear.  Is it osmotic pressure, pH, or
both?  It'd be nice to compare KHP buffer vs. equimolar NaCl to deconvolute
the two effects.

- --
Dave Whitman
dwhitman at fast.net



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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 09:36:07 -0400
From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at avery.med.virginia.edu>
Subject: the mystery of the massively foaming alt

A friend of mine brewed an extract alt with Ireks Amber and M&F
Amber malt for a total of 8.3 pounds. Steeped grains were 3/4 #
crystal,1/8# black patent, 1/3# chocolate. And about 30 IBU's of
northeren brewer and tettnager hops one addition. Irish moss at
30 min and fermented with Wyeast kolsch yeast at 65F for a week
and 2 weeks in the secondary at ~50F.

The resulting beer tastes fine, no contamination. It was kegged
and force carbinated with about 20# for a week. 

When the pressure was reduced for pouring. It was nothing but
foam. The top of the keg was then left open overnight. Still
nothing but foam and the resulting beer as very little
perceptable carbination. It tastes almost flat. Takeing the top
off again and syphoning beer out still gives you all foam.

What happened?

TIA  Rick Pauly


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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 10:12:43 -0400
From: fridge at kalamazoo.net
Subject: Receptacle testers

Greetings folks,

 In HBD#2858 Jeremy Bergsman recommends the use of a 
common 3-light receptacle checker to verify correct receptacle 
wiring. That's what the checker is for, right? I'll let you in on a dirty 
little secret...

 I attended a ground safety seminar several years ago sponsored by 
our local Consumer's Power Company branch. Our instructor 
demonstrated that a person could wire a receptacle with the ground 
and neutral conductors reversed, and that the checker would show it 
was wired correctly. I tried it at home with my own tester and 
verified it is true. I wired a common receptacle to a 3-wire cord in 
the normal fashion - the checker showed it was OK. I then reversed 
the ground and neutral conductors and checked it again - STILL 
OK! 

 I still use my tester to verify when I've killed the right circuit breaker 
before servicing a receptacle (the lights go out when the circuit's 
dead :-)), but I'll never rely on it to verify correct wiring. The seminar 
instructor felt these testers should be banned, as do I. People (even 
home inspectors and many electricians!) blindly rely on them.

 Reversed ground and neutral conductors can play havoc on circuits 
where GFCIs are installed, and could leave lethal voltage present on 
a piece of equipment plugged into the receptacle - even when 
turned off.

  Visual inspection of the receptacle's wiring is simple enough for 
many homeowners to do and will show whether the wires are 
connected to the proper terminals on the receptacle. It does nothing 
to prove the supply wiring is correct, however.

 Proper testing of a home's electrical wiring is beyond what most 
people are willing to undertake and is best done by a licensed 
electrician. Folks like Jeremy, who have taken the time to learn 
about household electrical systems and are comfortable with the 
risks involved will have no trouble. There are many sources of 
household wiring info on the net, so I'll leave it to those interested to 
do a web search for more info. 

Hope this helps!
- ----------------------------------------------
Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo
fridge at kalamazoo.net


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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:43:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: keith christiann <kchris1 at lausd.k12.ca.us>
Subject: Henry Weinheardt's Amber / pH Test strips

Brewers

     I've been sharing a few HBs with a guy at work and the HB bug has
bitten him ;-).  He came to me with a request to help him brew a Henry
Weinhardt Amber Ale.  This is a good thing... but, ah, I don't know
anything about the beer.  I have never had it.  I'll try and hunt it down this
weekend though.  Is an Amber Ale a true style that I just have never heard
of? ;-P  
     He really wants an extract recipe with specialty grains, but as a back
up I will want to formulate an all grain recipe as well.  Any help with the 
grain bill, hopping and yeast selection is appreciated.

***
pH Papers

mark bayer response to Randy's ph paper questions and it has me
wondering some more...  Is there a consensus on the right method of taking
a 
ph reading using the strips?
     I have been letting my sample cool to room temp and dipping the
ColorpHast strip in it.  The contact time is very short and I let it sit for a
minute before reading it.  Is this the wrong procedure?  If the strip reads
5.2 at room temp, (more like 80-90) will the actual pH be close to 4.85?   
     It sure would be easier to dip the strip in the sample right after
pulling it out of the mash!

BTW: There is a new brewer amongst us.  Her name is Nicole Diane
Christian.  She was born Sept. 17--healthy and happy.  This is one brewer
who is counting his blessings:  thanks god for a healthy child, barley, yeast,
hops, and water ;-O!

Keith
Chattsworth CA
kchris1 at lausd.k12.ca.us



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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 09:57:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jon Sandlin <sandlinj at ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: oak cask primary

	I am curious, is it possible to do primary fermentation in oak
casks?  I would only be doing it for asthetic reasons.  How would on clean
and sanitize an oak keg?  Can I use previously used casks for the wine
industry?  Thanks in advance for your help.



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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 10:16:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jon Sandlin <sandlinj at ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: Drying malt?

	I am looking forward to doing some home malting.  I have found
some good information in the archives on doing so.  I do have one question
though, how does one dry the grains after malting them?  Some posts made
references to using their oven?  How does on use their oven to dry the
grains?  What type of container do I put them in?  Does there need to be
air flow?  I would greatly appreciate any help.

Jon Sandlin
sandlinj at ucs.orst.edu




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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 18:04:53 -0500
From: "Mark Vernon" <vernonm at goportable.com>
Subject: Thermostat for Freezer

We just purchased a new upright freezer so that means our old (2 years)
chest freezer is now part of my brew gear. Yea!!!!
So what is the best method for controlling the temp. Do the thermostats that
you plug the freezer into work well? How accurate are they? Is there an
alternative to this? Any help will be appreciated. I am looking forward to
being able to lager!!!

Mark Vernon
mkv at netins.net
vernonm at goportable.com



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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:09:52 -0400
From: "Ludwig's" <dludwig at us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re:SHMS vs. HERMS/Grain Mill Update

Pete Perez was asking:
>  My question is
> what are some good solutions for an automatic mash mixer?  Preferably
> something that is reasonably easy to build/install?
> 
I've added some pictures to my Flat Iron Brewery website that should
give you a good idea how I built my mixer and also what the SHMS
actually looks like. Folks have been asking about my grain mill, so I
added grain mill photos to the web site as well. Enjoy!
Oh yeah, the address is: 
http://www.us.hsanet.net/user/dludwig/index.htm

Dave Ludwig
Flat Iron Brewery
SO MD


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Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:20:25 -0700
From: "Greg Lorton" <glorton at cts.com>
Subject: Re: On combining decoction and household chores

Jim Bentson got us started on decoction "washing".  Chris Pittock mentioned
"first wort socking", and Shane Cook talked about gym socks in his IPA.

HBD is a big group, and we shouldn't limit these discussions only to socks
or the mashing and brewing parts of the process.

Specifically, has anyone ever tried to brew a Scotch ale by culturing the
yeast from an Old Jock?

Sorry!
Greg Lorton
Carlsbad, CA


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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:30:09 -0500
From: Randy Shreve <rashreve at interpath.com>
Subject: Sanitizer Solution Shelf Life

For both bleach and Iodophor:

Assuming they are stored at room temp, how long are ready to use
solutions good for?

I store pre-mixed Iodophor in some plastic bottles in between uses, and
have noticed that the solution is noticeably lighter in color a week
after it was mixed.  Is it still good without adding more concentrate?

Randy in Salisbury, NC
Boy is the weather gorgeous here!




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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:48:15 -0500
From: Randy Shreve <rashreve at interpath.com>
Subject: Presenting:  The BrewPot Stretcher

This post will be of most interest to those of us who still make our
beer in the kitchen on the (electric) stovetop.

I only make beer in 5 gallon batches.  My wife doesn't like beer (except
Lindeman's Lambics at $6 per bottle).  It is highly unlikely that I will
ever "graduate" to 10 gallon or larger batches.

I get GREAT results brewing on the stovetop.  My non-descript GE stove
gives me a very nice rolling boil with 7 gallons in the pot.  I have yet
to see any damage to the stove.

One problem:  my brewpot only holds 7.5 gallons, and I'm too cheap to go
buy a bigger one.  What to do about the initial foaming at the beginning
of the boil with only 1/2 gallon of space?  

Enter The BrewPot Stretcher!  I cut a strip of the metallic wrapped
bubble insulation about 6 inches wide that would wrap all the way around
the lip of the brewpot and secured it with tape.  Voila!  The extra
"headspace"  provided by the insulation allows me to boil the full
volume without (undue) fear.  About 1/3 to 1/2 time into the boil, the
extension can be removed and cleaned for the next session.

Zum Wohl!
Randy in Salisbury, NC
(Charter member of the KISS brewing society)



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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 08:12:09 -0900
From: Fred and Sue Nolke <fnolke at alaska.net>
Subject: Scrubbies and Malt Freshness 

1.  Has anyone seen stainless steel scrubbies recently?  Lots of copper
in stores and as someone recently posted, lots of lint filters.  I'm
sure my local HB shop would order a bunch if he knew where to find them.

2.  More and more of us are buying bags of malt these days as they have
become available at reasonable prices.  Personally, I am frustrated at
not knowing how fresh the bag is that I am buying.  Could be years old,
and then I am going to keep it another two or three months.  Sure would
be useful if Briess, Bioriginal, etc. would see it as a competitive
quality issue to put the date bagged on it.

Fred Nolke,  Anchorage



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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 14:48:49 -0500
From: Jean-Sebastien Morisset <jsmoriss at axess.com>
Subject: Gott URL for impaired UK brewer. :-)

> Can someone please tell a Gott impaired UK brewer what a Gott cooler is, 
> please? They seem to be mentioned rather a lot hereabouts.
> A URL with a pic will probably save a thousand words.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Graham
> Head Brewer and Kegwasher, Blinks Brewery, Derbyshire, England.

Start here
<http://www.axess.com/users/jsm-mv/homebrewery/history-4-allgrain.html>.
There are plenty of pictures of my early experiences with Gott /
Rubermaid coolers.

Thanks,
js.

P.S. Normally I'd send you this directly, but your mail server seems to
have a problem.
- --
Jean-Sebastien Morisset, Sr. UNIX Admin <mailto:jsmoriss at axess.com>
Our Homebrewery Page <http://www.axess.com/users/jsm-mv/homebrewery/>


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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 17:30:47 -0500
From: "Ed D'Anna" <edannaNOSPAM at webt.com>
Subject: Kolsch yeast in high-gravity beer / All-grain brew with Munich malt (it was Weisenheimer)

Greetings, brewing brethren.

Thomas Murray wrote:

> Another question: Has anyone used a kolsch yeast like Wyeast 2565 for a
high
> gravity (1080-1100) beer?

I made a batch of extract barley wine in 1996 in which I used Brewtek
(Brewer's Resource) CL-450 Kolsch yeast from slant. I had been using the
yeast frequently to brew (what else) Kolsch beer, and was quite enamored
with it. It produces an exceptionally clean-flavored ale, with a resulting
brew much like a lager, only brewed at warmer temperatures.  At the time it
was, hands down, my favorite yeast and it seemed like a good idea to me to
use it on my annual (and similarly cherished) batch of barley wine. In my
enthusiasm I did not consider flocculation nor alcohol tolerance. I stepped
up the yeast to about 1.2 liters before pitching into 6.5 gallons of 1.093
wort. The beer finished at 1.018, and like all barley wines it needed some
time to truly get good. It got there, though! Because I made no attempt at
proper lagering, and the fermentation was done a little warm (about 70 F),
the resulting beer had a more pronounced fruity, estery character than
usual, but it played very well in the barley wine. It smelled absolutely
terrific, was crystal clear, and high alcohol was amply evident. I am still
hoarding a few bottles. It's only a single data point, but for me, it worked
well, and I would encourage you to try it yourself if you are inclined.

In other matters, I have been waiting patiently for my friend David Root to
respond to the queries regarding the brand of malt used in our club's recent
brewing session wherein a mash whose grain bill consisted of 100% Munich
malt took four hours to convert. I don't know all of the particulars (I was
playing Mr. Mom and was late to the session), but I recall that David told
me that the malt was Weisenheimer.

Cheers!
Ed D'Anna
Niagara Association of Homebrewers








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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:59:12 -0600
From: Louis Bonham <lkbonham at phoenix.net>
Subject: MCAB Update

Hi folks:

An updated list of who has qualified for the MCAB from the first nine QE's
(including qualifiers from the Dixie Cup, which was held this past weekend) has
been sent to our webmaster for uploading, and should be visible soon at
http://hbd.org/mcab/howsin.html .
If you haven't yet qualified, there are only two more QE's to go -- the
Novembeerfest in Seattle and the CABA Masters in Toronto.  Both of these are
coming up fast, so act quickly.

There are, of course, many talented brewers who have qualified for the MCAB, and
everyone who has qualified can feel justly proud.  In compiling the updated
list, however, I was struck by the fact that a number of folks have qualified in
three or more categories, often at several different QE's.  These folks are
truly impressive and worthy of mention:

Joe Formanek (BUZZ [Illinois]) has qualified in an unbelievable *five* QS's
(APA, Munich Dunkel, Scottish Export 80, Bavarian Weissen, and Lambic).

Thomas Plunkard (Ann Arbor Brewers Guild) has qualified in four QS.

Mike Riddle (Marin Society of Homebrewers) has qualified in three styles
individually, and is on a team that has qualified in another.

George Fix (Knights of the Brown Bottle) has qualified in three styles, and in
one of those styles (Munich Helles) he has placed highest at three different
QE's.

Dave Cato (Foam Rangers), Jay Adams (BURP), Charlie Burns (HAZE), and Michael
Knutson (?) have also qualified in three different styles.

Congratulations!  Come February, we'll see who comes out on top!

Louis K. Bonham
lkbonham at phoenix.net



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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:10:12 -0800
From: jeff <jeffi at chesapeake.net>
Subject: re: SS Pots

300series SS is not magnetic, e.g. 304SS, 316SS.  400 series SS is
somewhat magnetic, carbon steel (the kind that rusts), is magnetic.  I
have been using a 20 qt SS pot bought from the local Ames on sale for
$18 for about a year with no complaints and no rust.

Regards

Jeff in S. Md





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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 20:42:48 -0600
From: "Rob Jones" <robjones at pathcom.com>
Subject: Munich Dunkel

Can anyone point me towards information on a grain bill for this beer. I was
thinking 50% Pils malt, 48% Munich malt, and 2% chocolate. Am I close?
That's % extract, of course  :-)


Rob,
Toronto




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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:23:29 -0600
From: "Steinkamps" <EnW_Steinkamp at email.msn.com>
Subject: Time to Brew

This thread on how long it takes to brew all-grain reminds me of a time when
I had no time and no beer.  Well, I had a little time on Friday night and a
little time if I got up early Saturday morning.  I mashed over night in my
igloo cooler.  I wrapped it in about three sleeping bags to keep the heat
and went to bed.  The next morning I brewed and as I recall, the beer came
out fine.  Of course, that was before the BT flavor articles and I might
have had some off flavors that I attributed to something else.  I have been
reluctant to do this again, but breaking the brew day into brew days has
some significant advantages.  For one, it forces you to get up early and
finish the batch.  You might even be able to get a round of golf in after
you brew.  And then, you could bring your home-brew along in one of those
fancy dispensers that I saw in "Caddy shack."

I am digressing here.

What evil am imparting on my sacred brew by mashing it for eight or nine
hours.  I recall the mash temperatures at beginning and end to be something
like 154 F and 125 F.  (They were good sleeping bags.)

Thanks,

Ed Steinkamp






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Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:30:20 EST
From: JPullum127 at aol.com
Subject: partial mash

i am planning a german alt this week with 3kg of ireks extract syrup,2 lbs of
munich malt,2 ounces of 5% liberty hops(60 min)and an ounce of 3.5% hallertau
mittlefruh (20 min) using wyeast 1338 european ale yeast. using a full 5
gallon boil. is 152 degrees for  steeping the munich malt for about an hour
sound right? i have not done a partial mash before and am planning to use a
grain bag and my gott cooler for this. any thoughts on this recipe and plan
would be appreciated.  later  marc


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