HOMEBREW Digest #2868 Thu 05 November 1998

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Partigyling ("Michel J. Brown")
  Pumpkin beer (Bill Jankowski)
  Cider Priming (Bill Jankowski)
  yeast culturing and crystal malt vs. unfermentables ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Southern Stainless (Jeffrey Rose)
  DeKoninck and Brewing books (Sjef van den Berg)
  Yeasts from Brewer's Resource? (Andrew Ager)
  Woodruff and Gelatin (Nathan Kanous)
  Channelling in Batch-Sparging (Ken Schwartz)
  More Kegging problems (Steve Milito)
  Cleaning brushes for dip tubes (Dan Johnson)
  Re: Woodruff, Gelatine ("Houseman, David L")
  Largering (Eric.Fouch)
  RE: Chimay yeast? (LaBorde, Ronald)
  RE: Largering (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Chimay yeast / Recipies ("Spies, James")
  Re: Chimay yeast (Robert Arguello)
  Reusing Yeast (DejNiki)
  Pumps and Plumbing (WayneM38)
  Re: DeKoninck ("Tomusiak, Mark")
  Pitching rates for steam ("Kirk Harralson")
  Re: Yeast Update (Scott Murman)
  Re: Belgian Tripel/Pale (Scott Murman)
  wyeast 1338 (JPullum127)
  oregon brew crew (JPullum127)
  canning wort ("C and K")
  Re:nummy Belgian beers / candi sugar (Bill Wible)
  Chill Haze (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
  Chill Haze (Jorge Blasig - IQ)
  stale malt (Randy Ricchi)
  Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition (Jack Baty)
  Use of Flaked corn in CAP-mashing procedure (NEWTRADBC)

Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! Send your entries in for Hoppiest Event On Earth yet? Details: http://members.tripod.com/~BrewMiester_2/Home.html NOTE NEW HOMEBREW ADDRESS: hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org (Articles are published in the order they are received.) If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL **ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!! IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to brewery at hbd.org Homebrew Digest Information on the Web: http://hbd.org Requests for back issues will be ignored. Back issues are available via: Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 01:22:49 -0800 From: "Michel J. Brown" <homemade at spiritone.com> Subject: Partigyling Tried Louis Bonham's method of no sparge brewing, and made an IPA (5 gallons at 1.050), and ordinary bitter (5 gallons of 1.032) from 15 lbs of grain. This means my efficiency suffered a 15% loss, but I will report on the flavor components on my next posting when I start drinking these experimental brews with the Oregon Brew Crew. The wort tasted pretty good, even the ordinary bitter tasted pretty good for a *small* beer. Think I'll keep on double mashing for at least a little while -- it seems to make for a good use of time for return on investment vs production gained. TTYAL, God Bless, and ILBCNU! Dr. Michel J. Brown, D.C. {Portland, OR} 2222 miles due west of Jeff Renner homemade at spiritone.com http://www.spiritone.com/~homemade/index.html "In the field of observation, chance favors only the prepared mind" L. Pasteur Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 19:25:56 -0500 From: Bill Jankowski <wjankowski at snet.net> Subject: Pumpkin beer Just a side note. Brewed a pumpkin ale last night. I was a little concerned as the recipe called for 4 oz of Cascade Hops, that the beer may be overly hopped. So I used 3.5 oz instead ( and changed the grain bill a little bit, and ...) I tasted a chunk of pumpkin after the boil and it was way bitter. Anyways, whole point is that the pumpkin chunks absorbed a lot of the hop bitterness. I'm guessing that this is why it called for a lot of hops for a relatively un-hoppy style. Recipie: 9Lbs Maris Otter (store was out of American pale 2 row) 4 Lbs Crystal (40L ideally, I used 2Lbs 20, 2 Lbs 80) 4 Lbs Pumpkin 3.5 Oz Cascade (3 oz for 60 min, 0.5 oz for 10 min) Ale yeast (EDME) Mash in at ~150 for ~60 min with 4 gal of 170 water. Sparge with 3 gal at 170. While you're doing that, take your pumpkin, clean it, and bake at 375 for 1 hour. Let cool and cut into 1 in cubes. Add to wort. Boil for 60 mins. Add hops as necessary, clarifying agent if desired. Cool, pitch, let it sit in the basement until it finishes. If you want a spiced beer, the book said to run 1 Tablespoon of pumpkin pie spice through the coffee maker and add the "spice tea" to the beer at bottling/kegging. I'm still not sure about this. Bill Jankowski Colchester, CT Texan in Exile. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 05:39:28 -0500 From: Bill Jankowski <wjankowski at snet.net> Subject: Cider Priming As usual, I'm flying by night, and hadn't thought about all points of my brew prior to throwing it in the fermenter. I've got 3 gallons of cider fermenting with champagne yeast, and am planning on bottling all of it. If I prime it with more fresh cider, how much should I use to get adequate but not excessive carbonation? Thanks, Bill Jankowski Texan in Exile Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 08:41:03 -0500 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: yeast culturing and crystal malt vs. unfermentables To all that culture yeast from carboy bottoms: I'm using the method of culturing yeasties from primary fermentation carboy bottoms sludge recommended by Wyeast and was having trouble deciding when to pour off the "suspended" yeast from the sludge (hops, tiny grain pieces, etc). does the trub appear to be courser particles than the fine yeast? or is it better just to pitch the whole lot of stuff from a practical standpoint. I am just trying to pitch a decent count of yeast since I am having trouble reaching high conversion when just pitching from the packet or a single starter. My OG tend to be about 1.050-1.060 and it seems I never get much below 1.020 or 1.018 which are about 10% below the supposed attenuation of London Ale 2 yeasts from Wyeast. Also, I seem to remember a relation between L (crystal malt color) and percentage unfermentable sugars. is it high L, high unferementables, or the other way around? Thanks all. Private replies are ok. Pete Czerpak pete.czerpak at siigroup.com Return to table of contents
Date: 04 Nov 98 09:23:16 -0400 From: Jeffrey Rose <jeffrey_rose at eri.eisai.com> Subject: Southern Stainless Has anyone dealt with these guys? They make affordable SS pots for brewing (~$120-150) but don't appear to have much of a clue about the nature of the brewing process. They sold me a false bottom with 1/2 inch holes then, after I tried to explain the uselessness of such large holes, they sent me a round piece of window screen to lay over the false bottom. The false bottom itself sits on 3" legs that effectively separates the water from the grain-again, a fundamental flaw in the design. I'm going to have to hacksaw the legs off and find a better way to utilize the false bottom. The guy on the phones at So. Stainless seems to be number than a pounded thumb. Jeffro Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 09:25:49 -0800 From: Sjef van den Berg <vandenb at uconnvm.uconn.edu> Subject: DeKoninck and Brewing books It was interesting to note in Brad Railsback's posting re: DeKonick ale, that home brewing books in The Netherlands are much less advanced than those available in the U.S. S. Beck and J.Child ( yes-- the very Julia) (in "Mastering the Art of French Cooking") say (on p. 84) "Thus you cannot even find a bread tin in a French household store, and there are no French recipes for homemade bread". From the reputation of French baking alone that makes loads of sense. I wonder how many of us would be homebrewers if we could sample from the variety and quality that the fortunate Mr. Railsback has had access to for the last two years. Oh, gerstevlokken would be flaked barley. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 08:26:07 -0600 From: Andrew Ager <andrew-ager at nwu.edu> Subject: Yeasts from Brewer's Resource? Greetings, Two days ago, I received a late birthday gift from my future father-in-law: a complete yeast culturing kit from Brewer's Resource! I just need to pick 6 strains... So, any advice on good strains from these guys? I don't see any lagers in my fermentors any time soon, as I don't have adequate temp. control. Thanks! Andy Ager Beer Geek, Beer Judge Chicago, IL Homebrewer Ordinaire - --Chicago Beer Society -- Silver Medal Homebrew Club of the Year, 1998 -- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 08:29:25 -0600 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Woodruff and Gelatin Sweet woodruff syrup is used in berliner weisse...apparently the sweetness melds quite nicely with the sourness of the berliner weisse. Don't know about any other appliations. I've used gelatin to make slants just as you describe. They seem to have held up well for a couple of months and then break down. Maybe the yeast begin to autolyze since I can't keep them near freezing and the "spilled" enzymes begin to break down the gelatin. Don't know. I've switched to using sterile distilled water...we'll see how that works. Hope this helps. nathan Nathan in Madison, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 07:47:02 -0700 From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com> Subject: Channelling in Batch-Sparging Kelly C. Heflin mentions channelling in batch-sparge brewing: "Anyway I'm curious how this will relate to my system where I do a type of batchsparge. Recirculating at high speed with a pump, and then diverting that line into the boil pot. It doesn't seem the fluid would have time to start channeling." One of the interesting "features" of batch-sparge and no-sparge brewing is that channelling has *no impact* on efficiency as it does in a sparged mash. The reason is simple -- channelling in a sparged mash robs you of efficiency because clear water bypasses sugar-laden grains. When no-sparge or batch-sparge brewing, ideally all the wort in the mashtun is of the same gravity, and the sugar in the grain has been evenly distributed throughout the wort. Therefore all the runoff is of the same gravity and even if channelling exists, it is of no consequence as long as the desired quantity of wort is run off. - -- ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX kenbob at elp.rr.com http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 09:44:00 -0500 From: Steve Milito <milito at radonc.musc.edu> Subject: More Kegging problems I hate to belabor a thread, but I too am having problems with dispensing. This weekend I filtered and kegged a 5 gal batch of pale ale. I chilled the keg to ~40 F and pressurized it to 10 PSI. I pushed the CO2 through the liquid fitting, allowing the CO2 to bubble through the beer, and purged the gas 2-3 times. I then rocked the keg a few times until it stoppped taking the gas so readily. I then let the keg sit for 2 days (minus a couple of 'test' beers'). Well the beer gushed out. So having Dave Miller's excellent book, I read the kegging chapter, and I realized I was using 1/4" ID vinyl tubing. So I went out and bought 3/16" tubing and measured out 3.3 ft (9.9 lbs restriction), and poured a beer. Still gushed out! I then lowered the pressure to 8 lbs, and purged the gas. Still really fast. I then removed the tubing from the fittings, and attached the remaining portion of the 10' I purchased. So now the length is ~ 6'8", which should provide 20 lbs restriction. Yet the beer still gushes out. How fast should the beer come out of the faucet? Does 3/16" ID tubing really have 3lb / ft restriction? Could my pressure gauge be that far off? Any ideas? Best Regards, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 10:07:14 -0500 From: Dan Johnson <shag at ipass.net> Subject: Cleaning brushes for dip tubes Fellow Brewing Brothers and Sisters, A top 5 homebrew gadget purchase this year for me was a dip tube cleaning brush from American Brewmaster ( 919-850-0095) in Raleigh, NC. This product erased all doubts about whether I had a clean keg or not. It is approx. 30" of twisted metal strands (similar to a bottle brush) and has bristles on the last 3-4" . The usual disclaimer about "no affiliation" applies. Or another thought..... An old oil dipstick and a ball of cotton might work. Yea! Off flavors galore. Do I see (taste and smell) a new style on the horizon? :>) In a brewing frenzy, Dan Johnson Raleigh, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:34:56 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Re: Woodruff, Gelatine Eric asks about the use of woodruff in beer or mead. Although woodruff is sold in homebrew stores (sometimes you can find it there in dried form), I must be one of the few brewers who have used it. I once tasted a wonderful beer by Andreas Brewing Company that was a very pale Woodruff Ale. I was able to replicate this fairly closely but never got to try mine and theirs side by side. But in trying I learned a lot about woodruff. It's a perenial herb. But the essential oils that give you the sweet flavors and aromas unique to woodruff only are formed upon drying. So you have to use dried woodruff. I did buy some plants and they are now a ground cover in my yard but I sort of lost interest in woodruff about the time they started paying off. The oils in the dried woodruff are only soluble in alcohol. So putting them in the kettle is a waste of time. Dry spicing is the way to go. And it doesn't take much at all to over power a beer. I'd recommend starting with 1/4oz in a 5 gallon batch and go up or down from there. Cascades hops goes very well with woodruff, so brewing a light ale (fruitiness also goes very well) with Cascades hops for a flavor and aroma addtition followed by dry spicing with woodruff and some Cascades for aroma (here maybe only 1/2oz) will yield a very pleasant beer. The spicing needs to be subtle, not over powering. Balance of malt, hops and the spice is needed. I've also found that when this sits in the bottle for a long time, the woodruf does go away over time (months), so drink up. A slight amount in a wit might be interesting, but woodruff results in a flavor that can be described as sweet and this isn't really one you want in a wit. But just a little may make for an interesting wit. Certainly the same sort of very light base beer is what you're looking for anyway. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: 4 Nov 1998 11:07:21 -0500 From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com Subject: Largering HBD- Willy wants to know: Date: 3 Nov 1998 11:38:02 -0800 From: "William Warren" <wwarren at geron.com> Subject: Largering 11/3/98 Largering I have a question about brewing a larger. I heard that you can larger beers without the use of a fridge. Is that true and how is it done. I would like brew a Pilsner and I will have the opportunity to use my refrigerator. Any suggestions would be helpful. A recent BT article covered this. In it is covered how to brew small batches of high gravity, then diluting it with water at bottling to make it larger. Hope this helps! ;) Eric (I have a masters degree....In Science!) Fouch Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Kentwood MI Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:09:28 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Chimay yeast? >>>> From: "Penn, John" <PennJE1 at SPACEMSG.JHUAPL.edu> I got a bottle of Chimay with the red label and put it in the refrigerator for a day. I then poured the bottom of the bottle/yeast sediment into a 12 oz starter of wort. After two days, nothing so far. Did I damage the yeast by putting the bottle in the refrigerator for a day? Can I culture Chimay yeast this way or is there a better way? How long before fermentation should start? Is Chimay yeast the original yeast or is there a second yeast added at bottling time? Sorry for all the questions but I'm hoping to be enlightened by the very knowledgeable yeast culturers of the HBD. I also got a bottle of Duvel. Same questions about the yeast and culturing. Thanks, John Penn <<< I am happy to see your post, as I am in the process of trying to grow some Chimay yeast also. I had a dated 03-98 on the cork bottle of Chimay red. Well, I cooled it in the fridge for a couple days so I could drink the Chimay. Then I swirled the remaining 1/2 ounce of Chimay to loosen the sediment, then quickly blowtorched the neck, and poured it into my Erlenmeyer flask containing 100ml of 1040 wort. Placed this on my nifty magnetic stirrer, stirred for four days and nada. No sign of fermentation. So: 1) IMYR (is my yeast ruined)? 2) Is 03-98 too old? 3) What is the youngest cork anyone has seen? 4) Any suggestions to improve the chances? I have been using the stirrer on Wyeast 1968 and following the HBD procedures of feeding a couple of times for a couple of days, I then cooled, decanted and fed early on brewday. And did it ever make a difference on my ESB, the fermentation was obvious four hours after pitching, and I got a 2-3 inch krauesen head in the primary. After 3 days the SG was down to 1016, and still fermenting after racking to secondary. Haven't measured the FG yet, but before when I used 1968 without stirring and feeding three times, it stopped at 1018. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:22:14 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: RE: Largering >>> I have a question about brewing a larger. I heard that you can larger beers without the use of a fridge. Is that true and how is it done. I would like brew a Pilsner and I will have the <<< The temperature needs to be steady, and at the optimum for the beer you are lagering. If you are lucky enough to have this kind of weather, and you are on good terms with your weather radio, then - go for it! With a fridge, on the other hand, you can be the weatherman. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:40:19 -0500 From: "Spies, James" <Spies at dhcd.state.md.us> Subject: Chimay yeast / Recipies John Penn asks about culturing Chimay yeast from the bottle . . . I've successfully cultured from Chimay bottles before, and they rarely fail to start - with a caveat or two -- First, I'd look for as new of a bottle as possible. The longer the yeast sits in the relatively high alcohol % of Chimay, the more time it lags before starting. (with the increasing demand, it shoudn't be hard to find a bottle of Chimay Red that's only a few months old . . .) You were correct in refrigerating the used bottle. Here's my usual procedure - Let the unopened bottle sit still for a day or two to settle most of the yeast (it's pretty fluffy and roils up off the bottom easily as you move the bottle around). Open, and decant the beer very carefully (don't glug-glug the beer out). Leave about 2 inches in the bottom of the bottle (or stop when the yeast makes a break for the bottle lip). I usually flame the mouth of the bottle as well as a (3"x3") foil square, cover the mouth of the bottle, and refrigerate for a day or so until it's convenient to make a starter. Make your starter as usual (I usually aim for the 1050's - not sure why people make such weak starters), but decant the starter into the *bottle*, not the other way around. This just lessens the risk of uninvited guests (flame the lip of the bottle and sanitize the funnel that you use). Affix an airlock, and swirl the bottle once or twice each day until the yeasties wake up. Often they are slow, but they always wake up. Chimay used to bottle with a different strain, but they switched (I think in the '80's) to the fermentation strain, so when they start up, you've got the real deal. Build up the starter in about 3 or 4 steps until you've got a good slurry (I don't decant anything until probably step 3). Pitch as usual . . . I got a lot of interest in my recipies for the Belgian Strong and Dubbel, so FWIW, here goes . . . Devil's Advocate Belgian Strong (pale Belgian strong) 13 lbs. DeWolf Cosyns Pilsner - ----- 2 lbs. table sugar, dissolved - ----- 1 oz. Styrian Goldings (60 min) .75 oz. Styrian Goldings (10 min) - ----- Pitch good quantity of Wyeast 1388 starter or Duvel starter - ----- Single infusion at 149 for 60 min. - ----- OG - 1.087 FG - 1.017 (pretty simple, huh?) The relatively low mash temp promotes fermentability and makes the beer fairly conducive to attenuation. Wyeast 1214 can also be used, but it gets estery, and I don't like that in this style - YMMV. Holy Grail Trappist Ale (belgian dubbel - abbey style ale) 10 lbs. DWC Pilsner 1.5 lbs. Weyermann's Munich 1.5 lbs. 60 lov. crystal .75 lbs. DWC Aromatic .33 lbs. DWC Special-B - ----- 1 lb. amber candi sugar - ----- 1 oz. Hallertauer (60 min.) 1 oz. Styrian Goldings (60 min.) - ----- Pitch good quantity of Wyeast 1214 starter or Chimay starter - ----- Single infusion at 158 for 60 min. - ----- OG - 1.092 (way high for style, but what the hell . . .) FG - 1.022 - ----- This is one of my favorites. .33 lbs. is about the max on the Special B; don't overdo it. That's all folks. Hope this helps someone . . . Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement *Brasserie* Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 09:25:00 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Arguello <robertac at calweb.com> Subject: Re: Chimay yeast On Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:14:03 -0500 John Penn asked about culturing Chimay yeast. > I got a bottle of Chimay with the red label and put it in the >refrigerator for a day. I then poured the bottom of the bottle/yeast >sediment into a 12 oz starter of wort. After two days, nothing so far. ?Did I damage the yeast by putting the bottle in the refrigerator for a >day? Can I culture Chimay yeast this way or is there a better way? How >long before fermentation should start? Is Chimay yeast the original >yeast or is there a second yeast added at bottling time? I will say that the following is "better" only because, (for me), it has been foolproof with nearly 100% positive results. Rather than pour the dregs of a single bottle of Chimay into a starter wort, pour it into a petri dish with an agar/wort growth medium then dump out the excess. Cover the dish, set in a warm location and leave alone for a few days. You can use the yeast cells now growing on the agar to innoculate a small, (5 mililiter), starter then build it up until you have produced a pitchable sized starter. You would benefit by learning a bit about yeast culturing procedures beforehand. If you are unwilling to go the culturing route, you can increase your odds of success by using the dregs of multiple bottles of chimay to innoculate your wort. I have had good results, (about 50% success rate), obtaining enough cells to directly innoculate a small starter wort by pitching the dregs of 3 bottles of Chimay into 1/2 cup of starter wort, letting that work for a day or two, then building the size up gradually. You will probably have no difficulty in finding a couple friends to help drink the Chimay. Whether you go the culturing route or direct, make sure everything is as sterile as possible and "flame" the lip of the Chimay bottle before pouring. I asked Chimay if they used the same yeast for bottling and was told that indeed they do. (This was in reference to the Grand Reserve). ******************************************************************** Robert Arguello <robertac at calweb.com> Corny kegs - Mahogany 6-pack carriers and ProMash Brewing Software http://www.calweb.com/~robertac ******************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 12:34:57 EST From: DejNiki at aol.com Subject: Reusing Yeast Hello! I've been brewing for some time now with pretty good results (BEER). Until know I usually got my yeast from the local homebrew supplier. But as allways I like to try something new. To make a long story short I want to try to reuse yeast from my current batch of IPA in my next batch of brew. I have never done this before, so I would like to get some tips, pointers and ideas on how to reused my yeast. Thank you on advance. Dejan Chicago, IL e-mail is OK DejNiki at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:04:34 EST From: WayneM38 at aol.com Subject: Pumps and Plumbing >Ken asks: >>My basic question is, can I use reducing coupling to change the inlet >>on my pump from 1/2" down to 3/8" or 5/16" in order to accomodate the >fittings >>on my mashtun, boil vessel, and sparge vessel. Will I burn up the pump by >>doing this? The almost non-existent instructions that came with the pump > > KEN: To avoid those type of design problems on my HERMS-RIMS, I plumbed my pump, etc. as follows: Quick connnect fittings on all pump inlet and all outlet flesible hoses and matching fittings on brew kettle, mash tun and HLT. Pump inlet has 1/2 inch norprene high temp hose and pump outlet has 3/8inch braided hoses. The 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch quick connects are interchangable so it is easy to switch the pump from HLT to Mash tun to brew kettle to fermenter. I had to do a re-design after the first batch because the pump would not prime consistently. A call to Bill Stewart, Moving Brews, no affiliation, satisfied customer, yada yada yada., fixed the design problem by reducing sharp 90 degree bends in the internal plumbing of HLT and Mash tun. I would think that pump primming would be your biggest design concern. Magnetic pumps are not self primming and too much reduction on the intake might make starting the flow of hot liquids more difficult. Test your design with actual working temps to determine the most efficient design. I almost did not buy the quick connects because of the price, but now that I have run 6 batches through my system, I am glad that I invested the money. It has made my system very flexible.. no pun intended... Have fun Wayne Big Fun Brewing Milwaukee Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:18:45 -0800 From: "Tomusiak, Mark" <tomusiak at amgen.com> Subject: Re: DeKoninck Thanks to Brad for posting a recipe for DeKoninck obtained from a Dutch homebrew book. Just to provide another data point, Michael Jackson's "The Great Beers of Belgium" indicates that DeKoninck is made from a blend of pilsner and vienna malts and is hopped entirely with Saaz, sometimes of the Belgian variety but most often with the Czech variety. My tasting recollections would indicate that the grain bill probably contains something other than pilsner and vienna malt, but I think the all-Saaz hop bill is probably correct; DeKoninck has a very delicate spiciness to it. Another thing I love about DeKoninck is its very soft mouth-feel - any guesses about that? Is it the water? Wishing I was in Antwerp, Mark Tomusiak Boulder, Colorado Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 13:44:05 -0500 From: "Kirk Harralson"<nie1kwh at ismd.ups.com> Subject: Pitching rates for steam I've always read that you should pitch at least twice as much yeast when making a lager as you would with an ale. Since I've never brewed a lager, I never questioned why. Is it because of slower starts at the reduced temperatures; or is it something inherent in lager yeasts? I just naturally assumed it was because of the lower temperatures involved. If this is the case, then steam beers would be pitched at more of an ale rate, correct? I'm currently planning to pitch 14g of Superior lager yeast into 4.5 gallons of wort at approximately 62F. Will this be severely underpitching? Kirk Harralson Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:55:21 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: Yeast Update > Widmer adds a different yeast when they bottle their Hefe. As you have > found out, it is used because it is not flocculant and is not a good > fermenter. I would suggest BrewTek CL-980 to brew a Widmer style Hefe. > > Brett Gober I don't believe this is true. Widmer has been very proud of using their Alt strain and keeping it in the bottle. I've cultured from the Widmer Hefeweizen bottle, and used it in several brews all with great results. Things may have changed in the last few months with Widmer, but I'm doubtful. I think Jeremy just had a culturing glitch of some type. It happens. I'd suggest trying again, or using the WhiteLabs American Hefeweizen strain. -SM- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 12:38:24 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: Belgian Tripel/Pale > Has anyone tried 'parti-gyle' brewing, Belgian style? > > I'd like to brew a tripel (2 gal) of about 1.085-090, and a > pale (5 gal) of about 1.045-050. > > Steve Steve, Don't take this as discouragement, but one of the attributes of Belgian high-gravity ales is that they are lighter in body and highly attenuated due to the addition of sugar to the kettle. A tripel (I have no idea how to spell that any longer) will have 2 lbs. of sugar or more added to raise the gravity. While using a parti-gyle method for these brews will likely make a great beer, it may not be exactly what you're aiming for. Then again, it may be better. Just plan accordingly. -SM- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:20:21 EST From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: wyeast 1338 i used wyeast 1338 european ale yeast 8 days ago for a 1.048 wort. temp according to fermometer strip has been pretty steady 64-66. airlock bubbling has slowed considerably but i still have at least 1& 1/2 inches of krausen that shows no interest in dropping yet. . I haven't taken a gravity since there is no hurry and why screw around with it if your not going to do anything. has anybody had much experience with this yeast? is this usual for this strain? later marc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:25:14 EST From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: oregon brew crew I am still looking for a connection with a homebrew club called the oregon brew crew with an objective of getting some pointers to cloning their wonderfull collaborator milk stout.any help would be really appreciated thanks again marc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 16:04:57 -0800 From: "C and K" <Cuckold at cornerpub.com> Subject: canning wort Just when you think you know it all :-) For the last year, I have been saving 1/2 bottle of boiled wort from each batch. I carefully sanitize bottle, cap, and everything else in contact with the wort. No canning, no pressure cooking. Just commandeer part of the post boiled wort (hopped), cap the bottle, and save in the basement. Seeing all these canning posts got me curious, so I rechecked Charlie, and do see where he recommended refridgerating the results. I have never had a botulism problem. Once, I did notice a substantial pressure buildup while uncapping a bottle of wort for starter. At the time, I just attributed it to capping the wort while still hot. This may not be the smartest way to do things, and I am presently reevaluating my methods, thanks to all of you, on the HBD. Thanks for a great forum, no spam, and a welcome, learning, and sharing environment. Chris and Karin (My expert taster. She's German!) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:25:15 -0400 From: bwible at wanda.vf.pond.com (Bill Wible) Subject: Re:nummy Belgian beers / candi sugar In response to this: Belgian Candi sugars are definitely different from ordinary table/cane sugar, the biggest difference being that Belgian candi sugar is made from beets, while regular table sugar is made from cane. Big difference. I made 2 or 3 Belgians this year, all trippels. Still trying to get it right. ;) I've only used clear candi sugar, no amber or dark. I found you can buy rock candy at some of the candy outlets, and rock candy is very similar to clear candi sugar. It works well in a trippel, anyway. I also read several articles in the past 2 or 3 issues regarding Belgian yeasts. I have read and heard that you should not attempt to re-culture yeasts from Belgian beer. Most Belgian breweries add a second yeast at bottling, which is different from the yeasts used for primary fermentation. And most Belgian beers, lambics in particular, also have bacteria intentionally introduced at some point. Rather than re-culture from the bottle, you're better off buying yeast. Wyeast has several different Belgian yeasts, and there are others like White Labs. Homebrewers can make great Belgian knock-offs. I know, because I've done it, and I've only been brewing for less than 2 years. :) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:46:19 -0300 (GMT-0300) From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb at fing.edu.uy> Subject: Chill Haze Dear friends, I have tried several ways to avoid chill haze formation with no success. All batches I have prepared show chill haze when the beer is cold. I would appreciate your suggestions plus a good description on how chill haze is formed. That would give me an idea of the best method to eliminate is if there is any. thanks. Jorge Blasig First homebrewer in Uruguay. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:46:19 -0300 (GMT-0300) From: Jorge Blasig - IQ <gisalb at fing.edu.uy> Subject: Chill Haze Dear friends, I have tried several ways to avoid chill haze formation with no success. All batches I have prepared show chill haze when the beer is cold. I would appreciate your suggestions plus a good description on how chill haze is formed. That would give me an idea of the best method to eliminate is if there is any. thanks. Jorge Blasig First homebrewer in Uruguay. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 21:53:03 -0500 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: stale malt In Tuesdays HBD, Jim Booth asked how long others store their malt, and in what manner. I only had trouble once storing malt for an extended period of time (6 months or so) in the original bag. It was Briess 2-row, 50# paper sack. I store all of my malt in my basement, which is cement block, 10 year old construction, cement floor. It's not a leaky, wet basement by any means, but is somewhat damp, more so in the summer than in the winter, because the furnace tends to dry things out a bit in the winter, I assume. I live in the upper peninsula of Michigan. I have never thrown out any of my old malt bags, because I am somewhat of a pack-rat. I think, "say,,, nice big bag,,, might have a use for it some day". As a result, I have quite a few empty plastic and paper grain sacks laying around the place. When I opened this particular bag of Briess and started grinding it, I noticed it didn't grind as crisply as it should; it seemed damp. I smelled the malt and it smelled like fresh hay. I figured it must have absorbed moisture, so I weighed the bag and estimated I gained about 8 or 9% moisture. I was wondering whether I should use the malt or not, and decided I would at least mash in, and then see how the mash smelled. I was brewing a pils type beer, with nothing but the Briess 2-row. The mash smelled fine, so I brewed the beer, and it turned out fine, as did the other beers I brewed with the same grain. I just got 8-9% less points/lb/gal than I usually do, which I expected. I looked at the bag the malt came in and noticed that it was three layers, all paper. The middle layer of paper had the Briess printing on it just like the outer layer. I could have sworn that I had looked at paper sacks before and found them to have an inner lining of plastic or something, so I dug out a couple of old empty Briess bags and saw that the middle layer in those bags was a wax-paper coated paper, with no printing on it. I never had problems storing malt in those bags, nor in any other bags, and I have used Shreier (paper, with a plastic liner), Hugh Baird, Muntons, Durst, Weissheimer, etc.- all plastic bags. It appears that the only time I had a problem was because I had grain that was sold in a faulty bag. That's my experience. I have read in this digest that in some locales there is a problem with small bugs being able to get in through the stitch holes. I guess I've been fortunate in that respect. I also have chocolate, Black patent, and Roast barley that I bought 3 or 4 years ago, and I still use it, and it's just fine. I use the original plastic bags and just twist and tie them off tight. Anyway, that's my two cents and couple of hundred words. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 21:15:50 -0600 From: Jack Baty <jack at wubios.wustl.edu> Subject: Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition The 1998 edition of the St.Louis Brews' Happy Holidays Homebrew Competition will take place on December 11 and 12. After the competition we will have our annual Christmas banquet, awards presentation, and visit from Santa. Visiting judges are invited. Entries are due by December 5. Visit our website, www.stlbrews.org, or contact Head Judge John Sullivan, sullvan at anet-stl.com, for details. Please take a look at our style descriptions. We have what we believe to be a superior set of style guidelines. These guidelines are based on an analysis of several published guidelines along with extensive experience in brewing, judging, tasting, and competing. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:17:21 EST From: NEWTRADBC at aol.com Subject: Use of Flaked corn in CAP-mashing procedure I'm about to make my first-ever CAP, and first-ever use of flaked corn. Do I need to gelatinize it with a boil, like rice, or can I just throw it in the mash and do a simple 135F protein rest followed by sacch rest, or do I need to do lower temp protein rests as well. Thanks much. Tom Bergman Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 11/05/98, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96