---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  HALF ARSED BREW SHOPS (TWOC)
  Oud Bruins: More than one style. (MaltyDog)
  BoB/BHC (John Varady)
  Split session brewing responses (Greg Remake)
  Pump Connections (RobertJ)
  RE: On motorized mills? (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Carboy cleaning (Domenick Venezia)
  cleaning carboys (Jeremy B. Pugh)
  Minor correction to my judge variability post ("George De Piro")
  Sanitizer Stability ("Eric R. Theiner")
  RE: seeking pump experience (Robert Arguello)
  RE: seeking pump experience ("Pat Galvin")
  How to be a good customer? (GuyG4)
  Judging Variability: Problems with BJCP Exams (Ted McIrvine)
  Fred Garvin Leaks (Eric.Fouch)
  Pump & Chiller (John Varady)


Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!

Madison Homebrewers and Tasters Guild's 13th annual Big and Huge - 28
March 1999:  Rules and forms at www.globaldialog.com/madbrewers
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 22:23:36 +0800
From: TWOC <twoc at ois.net.au>
Subject: HALF ARSED BREW SHOPS

>Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 22:12:18
>To: homebrew at hbd.org
>From: TWOC <twoc at ois.net.au>
>
>RIGHT.  
>    DICK Seiben owes me a pound & a half of special barbeque
sausages.Started reading the hbd while cooking the evening meal.Idon't know
if it was the hot plate or my temperature rise that did the damage; HALF
ASSED indeed- then I read the " ASSED".The spelling of "ARSE" gave him away.
>    I was in Chicago a year or two back, and went to a couple of "Brew
shops". One I think was called "beer in a Box"-it was closed!Next I tried a
place with a name somethig like "The Golden Sheaf" - it was owned by a "Al
K-something-or-other."---he was't there: nor was anything else.Can't think
of the name of the other:- but it had bugger-all anyway.Coming from a small
"Brew Shop" in W.A. (thats Western A-Bloody-stralia) I found it hard to
believe that my "piddly" little hobby shop was actually bigger than some of
the "Must See" shows in the States.
>     Then it hit me.The problems in Australia, the problems in America, the
answers that Tricky & Geo the Biro have are not even on the same land
mass.One thing though, if you own a "Brew Shop", you don't complain:- you
change. In this I agree with things said; I looked from a different direction.
>    (1)In Australia, most brewing is done with a "kit & a kilo". Because
beer is so cheap in the U.S. you don't brew for cost,in Australia we
do.However some people can afford the beer - but brew for the flavour-these
are the people we target-we cannot match the "super Markets" in price
(although we get the questions that the "check-out chicks' can't answer.)but
we can match the bastards on accessories.Look at the market share you can
compete in:- forget the rest.
>    (2) Smart-arssed grain brewers that can buy their grain from
"micros":-In U.S.A. they may be a worry. In Australia- forget them! they
want everything on the cheap, they only pick your brains, they buy
everything wholesale & they only upset genuine customers. The amount of
business generated by these " holier than thou" scientific brewers is not
worth having.Concentrate on your genuine customers.Sure I've had "smart"
brewers go away thinking that I did't know the particular adjuct(let alone
stock it) that they wanted:- however I also didn't tell them which breakfast
cerial would do the job.As far as I am concerned, I stock grains (fresh
because I use them  myself) but I don't take shit.I have liquid yeasts ( I
use them myself) but I don't argue about price - you think you can do
better- be my guest.I don't have many "mashers" for customers- surprising
though, the ones I do have seem to think it is generaly cheaper to have a
chat with me and do a deal.
> If you think that the Brew Shop owner sh
>
>I just deleted a number of paragraphs because ,on reading them, I realised
that , although they added to the debate, they did nothing towards settling
the issue. I think it is a case of "you do your thing - we do our thing" 
>
>
>  AND I STILL THINK MY BEER IS BETTER THAN THE COMMERCIAL STUFF.
>        Regards   Roy   T.W.O.C. Home Brew Supplies  ( and you can make
what you like from the name)
>



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:30:04 EST
From: MaltyDog at aol.com
Subject: Oud Bruins: More than one style.

It HBD #2980 Gary Nazelrod wrote:

>Some years ago I had a bottle of Dutch Oud Bruin.  I have never seen this 
>style in the US.  It is a low alcohol beer ~2.4%v, it is fairly sweet.  I 
>do not remember if hops are noticeable or not.  It is dark.  Does anyone 
>have any insight as how to make one of these?  What ingredients? How to 
>achieve the sweetness?  Now, after I make a Dutch Oud Bruin (assuming I get 
>some answers), what category do I enter it in a contest?

Then, in HBD #2982, Ted McIrvine wrote:

>Somewhere else in today's digest, someone asked about Oud Bruin.  This
>is Flanders Brown ale, OG 48-56 with some pleasant acidity.  The
>best-known commercial example is Liefmann's Goudenband.  The acidity is
>similar to a wit, and a little less wild than the most untamed lambics.


Doesn't sound much like the same beer, does it? That's because the
Belgian and the Dutch Oud Bruins are actually 2 entirely different styles.
There is no sourness in the Dutch beer, and it is indeed low in alcohol.
I am unaware of any that are available in the US, and if you entered a
well-made version of the Dutch style into a homebrew competition, under
the Flanders Brown category, it would not score very well at all. 

To read more about these styles, check out Tim Webb's excellent book
about the Beers of Belgium, Holland and Luxembourg, put out by CAMRA,
which is now available in the US.

Bill Coleman
MaltyDog at aol.com


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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:34:39 -0500 (EST)
From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net>
Subject: BoB/BHC

George writes:
>The Best of Show winner at the Best of Brooklyn entered about 10 
>beers, and won no fewer than 6 ribbons (including a sweep of the 
>pale ale category and 1st and 2nd for IPA, and BOS for a brown 
>ale).  He entered all of the same beers at the Boston contest, 
>which was the same day, and only won 3rd place for his Altbier.  
>He would say to that it is more worthwhile to enter the Best of 
>Brooklyn...

Conversely, I entered 4 beers in the Boston Comp and won 3 ribbons. These
same four beers were entered in the Brooklyn contest and didn't place at all
(still waiting on scores sheets from Brooklyn so I can't comment on how well
I scored). This includes a Bohemian Pils that qualified me for MCAB 2000
with a score of 38 at the BHC. For some reason the judges in Brooklyn felt
that no beer entered in their contest was good enough to be awarded either
1st or 2nd in the European Light Lager category. That really puzzles me, not
awarding a ribbon in an *amature* contest. It's not like a home brewer is
gonna use the award for marketing. What criteria was used in Brooklyn to
determine if a beer was good enough to receive an award? Does a beer have to
score above a certain rating to be awarded a blue ribbon? Is this common
practice at home brew comps (I haven't heard of it before)? I understand why
this would be so at the GABF, where a ribbon is worth its weight in gold
from a marketing standpoint, but in an amature contest I fail to see the logic.

- -- 
John Varady                     The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program
Boneyard Brewing                Custom Neon Beer Signs For Home Brewers
Glenside, PA                            Get More Information At:
rust1d at usa.net                  http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady 



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:39:28 -0600
From: Greg Remake <gremake at gsbalum.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Split session brewing responses

Hello all,

Thanks to all those who responded to my post regarding split session
brewing, which I tried for the first time recently.  Some people requested
that I share the replies I received.  To summarize, I mashed and sparged
one evening, then boiled the next morning, and posted a question regarding
the proper storage technique for the collected wort (I left mine sitting on
the stove).

A number of people felt that there was a danger of contamination with
storing unboiled wort overnight.  Several brewers indicated that when doing
a split session, they boil the wort for a short period to sterilize it
prior to storage.  One posted reply suggested simmering the kettle
throughout the night (with small kids in the house, I can't try that).
Another post noted that spent grain in a mash tun got "reeky" if not
cleaned until the following day.  Notably, no one presented any evidence
that overnight storage of unboiled wort actually did cause problems.

Other brewers indicated that they take no precautionary measures beyond
covering the kettle between sessions.  One brewer claims to have used the
split session procedure for most of over 160 problem-free batches, storing
his covered kettle on the basement floor.  Another brewer pointed out that
it took two full days to deliberately sour a batch, so he had little
concern with storing fresh wort for 8 to 10 hours before boiling.

I really like the split session approach and will definitely continue using
it, because for a family man like me, two shorter sessions are much easier
to schedule than one long one.  Also, I think the long steep benefited my
first wort hopping results, as I tasted a delicious hops flavor and
smoothness in the wort that I hadn't noticed before with these same hops
(homegrown).  Bringing the wort to an intermediate boil requires a lot of
extra time and energy that doesn't seem justified, and more efficient use
of time is a primary objective of the split session approach.  Given the
successful results others have with just letting the covered wort sit at
room temperature, I think I'll continue using that practice.  Of course, YMMV.

Cheers,

Greg



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:39:16 -0500
From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com>
Subject: Pump Connections

Alan McKay wrote:
>I finally broke down and bought a pump - the high temperature (250F) 6144MM
The fellow from .......... says that on the inlet size I
>shouldn't
>run a smaller pipe up to the pump, than what's on the inlet of the pump
>itself.  This
>is repeated in the reading material included with the pump.
>
>This presents a very serious problem for my brewery, as I'm all 3/8" copper,
>which
>is only about 1/4" ID - quite significantly less than the 1/2" on the pump
>inlet.

If you just want to pump liquid from one container to another as quickly as
possible, that statement is correct 
 
However, we have used and sold many similar pumps both individually and
with our systems over the last 9 years with anywhere from 3/8 to 3/4" drains.

Experience indicates, in a brew system, there are more factors involved in
the proper  operation of the pump, than simply inlet and outlet size;
Screen, Crush, back pressure, overall system design etc.

Bob
Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.pbsbeer.com


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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:06:34 -0600
From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald)
Subject: RE: On motorized mills?

>>>>
What's the inherent problem with using a high torque/low speed electric
drill to power the mill?  I've milled a hundred brewings with my  electric
drill without a problem.
<<<<

Problem?? - No problem, it's just that if you have as much fun milling as
most of us, then you will eventually wear out your drill :>)

Ron

Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 07:28:23 -0800
From: Domenick Venezia <demonick at zgi.com>
Subject: Carboy cleaning


I held off on posting this since it is so simple and easy I assumed that
someone else would post it.  

Rinse the carboy well.  Pour in 1-2 cups of household bleach.  Fill carboy
with cold water and cap or seal - plastic wrap and a rubber band works.  
Let it sit.  After a day or so all the gunk will be dissolved.

Cheers!

Domenick Venezia
Venezia & Company, LLC
Maker of PrimeTab
(206) 782-1152  phone
(206) 782-6766  fax orders
demonick at zgi dot com

Pursuant to US Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, '227, any and all
nonsolicited commercial E-mail sent to this address is subject to a download
and archival fee of US$ 500.  E-mailing denotes acceptance of these terms.




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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:49:57 -0700
From: jpugh at hjnews.com (Jeremy B. Pugh)
Subject: cleaning carboys

In response to the cleaning carboy thread:
I have heard a lot of other cleaners mentioed, (sudsy amonia etc) but I
have used with complete success on even the stubornest, crusty krausen
residue, household bleach, generic, un-scented, economic, deconatminating,
amazing, revitalizing BLEACH (feel free to sing along).

I rinse most of the gunk out with plain old water and then use two ounces
o'bleach measured via shot glass to a full five gallon carboy. Then, I let
it set for several hours or overnight. The bleach eats up the gunkies. I am
able to use one of those elbow brushes to wipe away the persistent ones.
Then I rinse thourougly. Lately I've been storing my carboy's with bleach
water in them (albeit with a greater dilution 2 tsp: 5 gal).
Put that in yer pipe and smoke it
Jeremy B. Pugh
Logan, Utah




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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:47 -0800
From: "George De Piro" <George_De_Piro at berlex.com>
Subject: Minor correction to my judge variability post

     Hi all,
     
     In my recent post about judge variability I wrote that the Best 
     of Brooklyn best of show winner also won third place for Altbier 
     at the Boston contest.  This is untrue.  He won third place for a 
     Scottish ale.
     
     Thanks to Jeff McNally, the actual 3rd place winner of Altbier at 
     Boston for pointing this out to me.
     
     Have fun!
     
     George de Piro (in need of a mental tune-up in Nyack, NY)
     
     Malted Barley Appreciation Society 
     <http://members.aol.com/MaltyDog/maltind.html> 


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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:12:47 -0400
From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com>
Subject: Sanitizer Stability

Tim Morgan writes:
I have also wondered about the "life" of the idophor solution.

This is a problem with just about any sanitizing solution that you use.
The most common ones for brewers are halogen containing (chlorine or
iodine) or peroxygen based-- both of which will degrade over time.  I
generally consider a week in a sealed container to be the top end for
any solution that I have stored-- but that's due only to gut feeling
(and I have used all of those mentioned above).

One product that I just don't know about (and I hate to do this, but
can't bear for someone to claim that I'm losing my objectivity about
brewing) is a product put out by my no. 1 competitor, Star-San.  As it
is an acid-based cleaner, I don't see how it could degrade over time.
(God, that hurt!!)


Rick Theiner
LOGIC, Inc.



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:11:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Robert Arguello <robertac at calweb.com>
Subject: RE: seeking pump experience

Alan McKay asked about plumbing his new mag pump:

*************
I finally broke down and bought a pump - the high temperature (250F) 6144MM
from Moving Brews.  The fellow from Moving Brews says that on the inlet size I
shouldn't run a smaller pipe up to the pump, than what's on the inlet of the
pump
itself. This is repeated in the reading material included with the pump.
This presents a very serious problem for my brewery, as I'm all 3/8" copper,
which is only about 1/4" ID - quite significantly less than the 1/2" on the pump
inlet.
*************

What you were told by the salesperson is correct Mike... Don't plumb the
inlet side of the pump with pipe that is smaller than the inlet. The reason
is that mag pumps are lubricated by the liquid being pumped and any
restriction on the inlet side will reduce the pump heads' ability to remain
"full" of liquid.  Running the pump even partially dry can result in
cavitation and failure, (seizure), of the impeller. I know this to be a fact
as I did exactly that to my first mag pump. All plumbing in my system,
(inlet side), now matches my pumps inlet diameter of 1/2". Also, my current
pump has the advantage of special carbon bushings that allow the pump to run
dry for up to 8 hours without damage. The pump is a "Lil' Giant and handles
up to 200F continuous and I have no problem running near boiling wort thru
it for short periods. I don't have the model number handy, but it costs
$125.00 through Graingers.



********************************************************************     	
Robert Arguello <robertac at calweb.com>
Corny kegs - Mahogany 6-pack carriers - ProMash Brewing Software
http://www.calweb.com/~robertac
********************************************************************



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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:56:20 -0800
From: "Pat Galvin" <Pat_Galvin at ermwest.com>
Subject: RE: seeking pump experience

[Alan McKay writes:

I finally broke down and bought a pump - the high temperature (250F) 6144MM
from
Moving Brews.  The fellow from Moving Brews says that on the inlet size I
shouldn't
run a smaller pipe up to the pump, than what's on the inlet of the pump
itself.  This
is repeated in the reading material included with the pump.

This presents a very serious problem for my brewery, as I'm all 3/8"
copper,
which
is only about 1/4" ID - quite significantly less than the 1/2" on the pump
inlet.

I had been hoping to hook my pump up like this :

 - Kettle -> CF Chiller -> Pump -> Carboys

But with this requirement mentioned above, I'd have to build a whole new
chiller.
The fellow at Moving Brews recommended I go :

 - Kettle -> Pump -> Chiller -> Carboys

and then replumb between the Kettle and Pump with a thicker copper.
This would certainly be a lot easier than building a new chiller.

But I thought I'd ask what you folks are doing.  Are you all just ignoring
the recommendation and running smaller pipe up to the inlet anyway?
If so, how long have you been doing this?  Which pump are you using?
Have there been any problems resulting?]


I use a 1/25 hp pump from Moving Brews.  Nearly all these mag drive pumps
require what's referred to as a "flooded suction".  This means that there
needs to be a positive head (pressure) on the inlet for the pump to operate
as designed.  If you don't have this positive pressure on the inlet, the
pump will cavitate, greatly reducing pump life and actually spinning your
beer into a froth as well.  With my March pump, you can hear the vibration
when the pump is cavitating.  You can choke back these pumps (place a
restriction, i.e., a throttling valve or other device) on the outlet and
control flow in this fashion.

I understand you want to gravity flow through your CF wort chiller and then
to the pump inlet.   First, I would ensure that the system will gravity
flow through the CF without a pump in line.  Measure the flow rate and
verify this is satisfactory.  If it is not, increase the head on the CF
chiller by raising the elevation of the kettle and/or upsize your transfer
tube/pipe.  If flow is satisfactory, then install your pump and throttle
the pump discharge to less than the flow you measured at the CF chiller
outlet.  This would provide for the positive head required at the pump
inlet.  If flow from the kettle through the CF chiller to the pump inlet is
not satisfactory, then you likely need to buy a different style pump that
will actually provide some suction to facilitate this flow.

Pat Galvin
Concord, CA




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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:03:57 EST
From: GuyG4 at aol.com
Subject: How to be a good customer?

Another waylong message on this topic.  Lately this forum has been concerned
with the decline in the "homebrew market".  Many of our local retailers,
whether good or bad, are in trouble.  As with any market contraction, it is
likely some homebrew shops will go out of business over the next year or so.
So, shopowners and others in the know, how do I be a good customer?

First, I am not an employee of a homebrew shop, and I have no idea what kind
of financial condition my local shop is in, though the owner is a bright and
considered guy and I think must be making a living.  He's not driving a BMW,
and neither am I.  IMHO anyone who planned on getting rich in the homebrew
supply market is probably broke by now.

Heres what kind of customer I am. I have been brewing over 6years now.  I buy
all my grain from my local supplier, Jim's Homebrew, because they have great
service and high quality products at a fair price, period.  I buy in batch
lots, and the shop does my crushing.  The grain is always great, no bugs, none
of the horrors one reads here in this forum, ever.  The crush they give is
dandy, matching the written charachteristics of a perfect crush, and though my
yields don't approach the high yields cited often here, they are reproducable
batch after batch and the crush is not responsible.  I don't buy rolled oats
there; I use Quaker.  I malted my own grain a time or two, and they talked me
through it, encouraging all the way.  I got the grain from a family member
who's a farmer..so I cut out all middlemen. It cost me more than I would have
paid, cash.

I buy my hops there if I don't grow 'em myself from rhizomes I bought there.
I buy my yeast there, too, taking an older pack of liquid yeast so they can
save the fresh stuff for folks who don't build a starter.  The shop turned me
on to the danstar dry yeasts, for which I am eternally grateful. I don't, and
won't, yeast ranch, it's just not for me.

They carry a lot of beers you can't just  buy anywhere, so sometimes I'll
sneak down and buy a few, take 'em home and drink 'em.  Belgians, regional or
other unique beers, barleywines, etc.  I've learned a lot about beer there. I
don't subscribe to BT or BYO, I buy by the issue at the store if I see
articles I want.

I make my own equipment by scrounging stuff or using other things (canners,
for example) as brewing equipment.  I bought my kegging stuff there, scrounged
some other kegs, and get my CO2 from a local industrial gas supplier.  I do
this because one of the reasons I homebrew is that I have this pathologic need
to make my own stuff....all my brewing equipment, my sailboat, flies and
flyrods, duck decoys, I train my own dog, smoke my own fish and pheasant and
venison jerky, etc...you get the point.

I don't belong to a club, because I don't have time, belong to too many
clubs/conservation organizations, etc already, so I'm not joining.  There
isn't one in this town anymore, anyway.

All in all, I suppose I spend about 300 bucks at this brew shop, 20 bucks 12
times per year for a batch of beer, and another 60 or so in incidentals.
Could I scrounge around, mail order, internet order, and save on this?  Yeah,
but what over a year, 10 bucks?...instead of great, friendly, knowlegable
service and fresh stuff?

Folks, at this rate, he ain't staying open on me.  And he's getting all my
brew money.  And this shop earned that, as I've now told all my friends.  So,
those of you who run brew shops, or have, please tell us all, what beyond
keeping making good beer will keep a good shop open?  How do we close the bad
ones before they drive the good guys out? Given this inevitable crash in the
brewing market, wasn't this washout preordained? (remember, I flyfish,too.
Anybody see "A River Runs Through It"...)  How is a 30 second commercial going
to target the do-it-yourselfer/hobbyist who is also interested in making and
drinking beer? And how are those shops who need it the most gonna cover the
airtime?

So, let's hear it owners and suppliers, what do you expect in a customer?

Guy Gregory
guyg4 at aol.com
Lightning Creek Home Brewery
Spokane, WA
      


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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:47:35 -0800
From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Judging Variability: Problems with BJCP Exams

It is pretty easy to second-guess judging or make generalizations about
the judging of competitions.  I'm going to decline to do that even
though I've had beers that had wildly different evaluations from
certified judges.  But I think that George's first point suggests that
there are serious problems with the BJCP.

Several of my friends at Homebrewers Of Staten Island (whose beer
judging abilities I value highly) have encouraged me to take the BJCP
exam, which always seems to be held when I'm working on Sunday morning. 
Their opinions about beer and recipes have been very helpful to me.  So
the grumbles that follow have nothing to do with judging of my beer or
the exam that I haven't taken.

First off, it is ridiculous that a BJCP exam can use beer brewed by the
exam evaluator.  Several friends have been roasted on the exam for
spotting defects in beer brewed by the evaluator.

Secondly, I think many Certified judges haven't tasted stellar examples
of particular styles.  I still vividly recall a very loud and officious
certified beer judge from western New York who sat in The Broad Ripple
Brewpub pontificating, yet he couldn't tell the difference between the
IPA and the ESB (both of which are absolutely classic there.)

Thirdly, the more I read here and the more I brew and taste, the more I
am convinced that some of the AHA style guidelines are from Mars if not
Uranus.  For example, an all-Munich malt grain bill would probably make
a great Bavarian-style Alt-bier,  (think of Ayinger Alt-Barische Dunkel)
but I'm sure many judges would trash such a beer for being out of
style.  And nobody has disputed my contention in a previous digest that
a 60 OG gravity "Belgian" Dubbel or Pale Ale falls into the middle of
the AHA range while being illegal to brew in Belgium.

Finally I think that although beer judging may appeal to some brewers
who want to deepen their knowledge of style and who judge with
sincerity, it also attracts an uncouth group of know-it-alls who want to
tell everyone else how to brew.

Ted

> From: "George De Piro" <George_De_Piro at berlex.com>
> Subject: RE:  Judging variability
> 
>      1.  The vast majority of BJCP judges are not professionally
>      trained in beer evaluation skills; they are *hobbyists.*  You have
>      to keep that in mind when entering competitions and assessing the
>      value of their feedback.  Some judges are great, others are less
>      than great, and even a professionally-trained beer evaluator will
>      exhibit variability from day to day.  We are human beings, not gas
>      chromatographs.
- -- 
McIrvine at Ix.Netcom.Com
College of Staten Island/CUNY
http://www.csi.cuny.edu/academia/programs/mus.html
http://www.csi.cuny.edu/arts/calendar.html


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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:23:00 -0500
From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com
Subject: Fred Garvin Leaks

HBD-
We seem to have a leak in our Information Managment Departement:

News flash from the Midwest:  I just saw a preview in Fred Garvin's
kraft korner for the Fred Garvin Productions Manufacturing Company
Adjustable Roller Malt Mill which sports the following features:

 -accomodates any gap spacing
 -variable speed drive to suit your own cranking speed
 -continuous duty for those all night sessions
 -self lubricating assembly
 -easy clean up
 -KY dispenser option	

Thanks to Mr. Druey, The Bent Dick YoctoBrewery is on damage control.
Work on our adjustable malt mill is on hold.  We are waiting for our
engineering staff to complete their reverse engineering on some Intention
Sensors.  You know- the sensors on the doors on the Starship Enterprise?  The
ones that know whether Spock is throwing somebody up against the door, or
throwing them out the door.  The door either opens, or stays closed
accordingly.  Our engineers are staying up around the clock, watching old Star
Trek reruns, while Fred fetches them coffee.
Once this hurdle is cleared, we will be offering a mill that will automaticaly
adjust it's roller gaps to provide a crush that will match whatever %
efficiency you are expecting.  It will also adjust the speed of the rollers
depending on how much of the rollers surface you think should be involved in
crushing the grain.
Kyle, report to Fred's office after the Object Removal Seminar this weekend.

Next week, Fred's Craft Corner will cover making a CPVC manifold to fit a 10
gallon Gott.

Eric Fouch
Bent Dick YoctoBrewery
Kentwood, MI



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Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 12:18:57 -0500
From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net>
Subject: Pump & Chiller

Simon Writes:
>With the pump you will be able to get more turbulent flow and=20
>the rate of heat transfer will go up.  Obviously you will need to=20
>run your chiller water faster too.  The problem you may experience is=20
>that now your beer is spending less time in the chiller and even=20
>though heat is leaving the beer faster the dramatically reduced time=20
>you will get with the pump will result in the beer coming out warmer.=20
>There are three ways around this problem. 1) run the coolant water=20
>even faster  2) run the pump slower 3) get a longer chiller.=20

4) Pump the wort back into the kettle. Keep pumping until the wort is at
the temp desired and then stop the water and transfer to carboys.

This is my standard chilling procedure. Use some leaf hops to set up a
filter bed and you get crystal clear wort by recirculating. I set the
return flow so that it forms a whirlpool. This way I run the pump full
speed and the water slow. This keeps a lot of wort in contact with a little
water and the exit temp of the water is very close to the input temp of the
wort (rather then the wort exiting at the same temp as the input water).
Friday night I chilled 11 gallons of Tripel (westvleteren yeast!) to
55F in 30 mins using 45 gallons of water.

Later,

John

John Varady The
 HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program
Boneyard Brewing Custom Neon
 Beer Signs For Home Brewers
Glenside, PA
 Get More Information At:
rust1d at usa.net
 http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady 



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