---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Label Contest (Robert Johnson)
  Reynolds Tapper Keg Help (SCHNEIDERB)
  In search of nuttiness ("Michel J. Brown")
  Mini kegs (Julio Canseco)
  Sexy Housewives (Eric.Fouch)
  High Octane (Nathan Kanous)
  Crock Pot (Nathan Kanous)
  RE: aerators and counter flow wort chiller storage (Walt Lewis)
  Re: What are Micrococci? & sexist photo (Bill_Rehm)
  Hazy Kolsch (Dave Humes)
  RIMS controllers and Thanks! (Jonathan Peakall)
  wort chiller and shaking carboys (RCAYOT)
  Steaming (Biergiek)
  Ale Storage and 5l Mini Kegs (Dan Listermann)
  Sweet Corn (Dan Listermann)
  re: RIMS Controllers ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing) (Michael A. Owings)
  Table sugar (Paul Haaf)
  re: 3/8" vs 1/2" valves (Michael A. Owings)
  On July 1 Jethro Said>> ("Steve Potter")
  Canadian companies, the aha, and CABA (Robin Griller)
  BUZZ OFF Results ("Houseman, David L")
  Call for ideas/developers:  freeware Tcl/Tk brew calculator (Jim Graham)
  Z V22 No4 (WeizenGuy)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 23:46:49 -0700
From: robert at bobbrews.com (Robert Johnson)
Subject: Label Contest

Open to all...

BOBBREWS Label Contest

As part of our 3rd Anniversary, we will hold a homebrew label contest.
The rules are simple.

1. It must be of your own design. (hand drawn, paste-up, computer
generated)

2. NO Commercial brands
(this is homebrew, treat this as if this was your dream label for your
best homemade crafted beer)

3. 2 copies of the label must be submitted by July 30th to our
address.They will not be returned.

4 There is no fee to enter. No purchase is necessary

5. Submission of your label includes the right to use the label/your
name in advertising connected with the store if we so choose.

6  Three places will be awarded (1st, 2nd, 3rd) Prizes to be announced
before contest deadline.(watch this page as we are
arranging for the prizes as of right now) If we get enough responses to
prize requests we may offer more.

7. The decision of judges is final.

8  ALL Prizes will be awarded August 1st. Winner need not be present.

SEND before or DROP-OFF your labels at the store by July 30th.

Brewer's Rendezvous
Bobbrews Label Contest
11116 Downey Ave.
Downey, CA 90241

If you are in-store on the 1st of August, each year we always have an
in-store door prize drawing for glassware, t-shirts,
homebrew kits, and the GRAND PRIZE each year has been a 5 gallon conical
fermentor donated by BOBBREWS and Brewer's
Rendezvous. (you do not have to be present for the grand prize). Join us
that day for a light buffet and this year we will have
homemade soda on tap. (sorry no brews as we have a beer & wine
off-license)



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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 08:20:26 -0500 
From: SCHNEIDERB at morganco.com
Subject: Reynolds Tapper Keg Help

I have just searched the past several years of HBD for how-to-use pointers
about this old aluminum keg style I bought for novelty sake. I now own two
of them, so I would like to actually use them. Archives show very few
questions, no technical answers, and still leave me wanting.

Basically: I found that the original mechanisms are outdated and not likely
to be made to work. So the suggestions were to convert by adding a fitting
so they can be attached to a CO2 tank. This replaces the old self contained
gas cartridge inside the keg. I don't have a problem doing this and will
eventually get there I suppose.

But my questions are about opening the bottom cap area with the massive snap
ring, and also about the spring loaded tapper handle mechanism on the top
end. I would like to know how to get it all apart so it can go together
again and be sealable and pressure tight.

As the search indicated no replies to the hbd, I hope anyone in the the know
will share with us all. If not choosing to do that I will summarize any
replies and post the results. Outside of that, it's a 3 day weekend and if
there is anything I figure out while playing with them I'll post as well.

Thanks in advance - Brett


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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 05:25:43 -0700
From: "Michel J. Brown" <homemade at spiritone.com>
Subject: In search of nuttiness

In a valiant effort to evince the nuances of what constitutes a "nutty"
flavor in beer, I beseech those who have gone before me to elucidate on the
aforementioned conundrum that I face. I've tried Caramunich II, Honey
(malt), Special Roast, Toasted, and Victory malt as well as all the
permutations of the above to no avail. Good Brown Ales were made, but sadly
lacking in the "nutty" character I'm seeking. I tasted a wonderful Nut Brown
Ale (of the Northern English variety) during the Spring Beer Festival
(http://www.springbeerfest.com/) made by a gentleman named Greg (don't
recall his last name) from Montana (or was it Wyoming?) and it was the
grail. Well, maybe a grail shaped beacon ;^) At any rate, he was tight
lipped about grain/hop bill and yeast, but said I was "...on the right
track...", whatever that means. Any ideas, suggestions, opinions? Below is
my most recent recipe (206th attempt) so far, and there's still another  514
permutations left!


O.G 1.052
T.G. 1.013
Alc % 5.0
I.B.U. 24.7
S.R.M. 62.8
Ingredients for 5 gallon test batch:
      5 lbs Pale Ale Malt
      4 lbs Brown English Malt
      4 oz Caramunich II Malt
      4 oz Honey Malt
      4 oz Special Roast
      4 oz Victory Malt
      0.5 oz Bullion 9.4% Boiled for 90 minutes
      1 oz Kent-Goldings 5% Finishing hops  at  end of boil
      1 tsp Calcium Chloride
      1 tsp Irish Moss
      16 oz Danstar Nottingham Dry yeast slurry
    Boil Time: 90 minutes
    Mashing Procedure:
      Mash Efficiency 75% with my system
      Add  3.125  gallons  of water at 168 F to heat mash to 150 F
      Sparge with 4.25 gallons of water to yield 5.00 gallons to primary
       Ferment  at  65'F for 3 days, transfer to carboy for one week, then
condition for  another 2~3 weeks. Share, and enjoy!

                Dr. Michel J. Brown, D.C. {Portland, OR}
      2222 miles due west of Jeff Renner
                         maxx_stryker at xoommail.com
              http://members.xoom.com/Maxx_Stryker/
    "In the field of observation, chance favors only the prepared mind"
          L. Pasteur





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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 20:40:58 -0400
From: Julio Canseco <jcanseco at arches.uga.edu>
Subject: Mini kegs

Troy Kase asks about mini kegs,

Some folks like them some don't. I've had mine for about three years
without any problems.
Rules of thumb: 1) Prime your beer with 1/3 cup of priming sugar (no
more or you run the risk of bulging/ruining your mini), 2) Fill up to an
inch from the top, 3) Avoid storing your filled minis in a hot spot
(kitchen pantry is good enough for me) 4) Make sure you have enough head
room in your fridge for the mini with the tap 5) Start serving the first
glasses with the natural carbonation pressure and then only add enough
pressure to pour comfortably. 6) When keeping the mini in the fridge for
a few days, add a shot of CO2 and close 7) The larger CO2 cartridges (16
oz ?) work better than the smaller ones. I use about one per mini.

I have been lucky and never had a leak in my system. Good luck with
yours.

                                    julio in athens, georgia
                             once a newbie, always a newbie.....



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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 08:40:00 -0400
From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com
Subject: Sexy Housewives

>From: Kris_G._Mueller at umit.maine.edu (Kris G. Mueller)
>Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing)
>
>Regarding the Zymurgy article on dishwasher sanitizing, did anyone else
>find the photo of the housewife offensively sexist?
>Kris Mueller
>kris_mueller at umit.maine.edu

I don't get Zymurgy.  Can someone forward me the picture in question?

Fred Garvin
Bent Dick YoctoBrewery


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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 07:56:33 -0500
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: High Octane

I've gotta get some of that high octane to put in my next Massive Ale.
nathan in madison, wi




Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 08:09:26 -0500
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: Crock Pot

Lee Bogardus asks about grain flour and adding grains in the grainbag to
the boil pot and such.  Although I moved on to all-grain brewing rather
quickly (2 extract batches), I've always had some concerns of practices
such as "steeping" a pound of crystal malt in 2 gallons of water.  I don't
want to get into the chemistry, but it doesn't sound like a good practice
(tannin extraction?).  I've also been tinkering with ways to make some very
small pilot batches with different yeasts.

Last night I used my crock pot!  Two pounds of pale ale malt and 2.5 quarts
of water (all american units).  I heated the mash water and added the malt.
 Pulled a small "decoction" which I heated in the microwave.  Added that
"decoction" back and voila' 154 deg F.  Mashed for about 75 minutes and
transferred to a teenie weenie lauter tun and sparged with 1 gallon of 160
deg F water.  Boiled just fine.  I dont' have a small chiller so I
transferred the wort to a small 1 gallon fermenter (nearly full of wort)
and left it overnight.  I poured off all of the break and hops this morning
and pitched the yeast.  

This was easy to do.  I would recommend it as an option for extract brewers
that want to "steep" grains or do small partial mashes....or for some idiot
like me that just needed to make a one gallon batch of beer.  YMMV
nathan in madison, wi




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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 09:10:24 -0500
From: Walt Lewis <wlewis at alliedlogistics.com>
Subject: RE: aerators and counter flow wort chiller storage

I've got a trick that aerates wort effortlessly and costs
next to nothing. Take an 8-10 inch piece of rigid tubing
that fits into the end of your discharge hose. Starting a
couple of inches from one end, drill, poke, or burn lots and
lots of holes around this tube. After you begin your siphon
- -- or before you turn on your pump -- attatch this tube to
the end of your discharge hose and drop the rigid tube into
the opening of your fermenter. As the wort flows through the
tube the venturi effect draws air into the wort and aerates
like hell.

I made one of these tubes for some friends and they went
from an 18 hour lag to a 2 hour lag.

Easy, Cheep, effortless.

- --
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US dollars. Emailing Denotes acceptance of These Terms.




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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 08:12:39 -0600
From: Bill_Rehm at DeluxeData.com
Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? & sexist photo

Why can't people just lighten up!  It's just a picture in a magazine, I'm
sure many women have used dishwashers!



Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 08:11:56 -0400
From: Kris_G._Mueller at umit.maine.edu (Kris G. Mueller)
Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing)

Regarding the Zymurgy article on dishwasher sanitizing, did anyone else
find the photo of the housewife offensively sexist?
Kris Mueller
kris_mueller at umit.maine.edu




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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 99 09:23:30 -0400
From: Dave Humes <humesdg1 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Hazy Kolsch

Greetings,

I made a Kolsch several weeks ago that is showing no signs of
clarification during cold storage.  I used Weissheimer Pils malt for 80%
of the grist.  Despite the fact that it is a continental malt, the typical
analysis showed no evidence of undermodification (Kolbach =43.6%, FG-CG
difference = 1.5%, friability=85%.  So, I proceeded to infusion mash at
147F for 90 min.  The other malts were 10% Munich and 10% wheat, but I
have used these malts in similar amounts in other beers and have not had
any haze problems.  I don't think the haze is suspended yeast as it
doesn't taste yeasty and I would think most of the yeast would have
dropped after 3 weeks of cold storage.  But, just in case it's the yeast,
I used White Labs German Ale/Kolsch yeast.  Any ideas?  Does the
Weissheimer Pils need a protein rest?  Is the Kolsch yeast a really poor
flocculator?

Thanks.

- -- 
- -----------------------------------------------------------
Dave Humes <humesdg1 at earthlink.net>                  Dave Humes
- -----------------------------------------------------------



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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 06:34:29 -0700
From: Jonathan Peakall <jpeakall at mcn.org>
Subject: RIMS controllers and Thanks!

Whoa!

In precise opposition to my first RIMS controller post, I have been buried
under  an avalanche of replies. Thanks, y'all!! It'll take me a few days to
sort through it all, but then I'm sure I'll have more questions.

If there is anyone out there who has built any other controller than the
Rodney design I would be very interested in details.

HBD: A veritable font of information...On tap, of course!

Jonathan Peakall

********************************************

"I don't feel we did wrong in taking this great country away from
them. There were great numbers of people who needed new land, and
the Indians were selfishly trying to keep it for themselves."
 -- John Wayne

********************************************




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Date: 02 Jul 1999 08:45:50 -0400
From: RCAYOT at solutia.com
Subject: wort chiller and shaking carboys

     Joe Gibbens asks about sanitizing a wort chiller.  I usually have a 32 
     gallon plastic trash pail filled with detergent-bleach mix the night 
     before brewing out on the driveway.  I soak my chiller about an hour 
     before use, then rinse withe cold water, then hot water rinse, then it is 
     ready for use.  I clean up the same way (in reverse) rinse with cold, 
     then hot water, then soak, then remove, rinse off the deter-bleach mix, 
     then put it away.  It probably gets really dirty sometimes between uses, 
     but I wouldn't trust any kind of sanitizer/storage procedure that would 
     make me not want to follow the pre-use sanitizing I do now.  so I guess 
     how you store it is not as important as how you sanitize it before use!
     
     also STOP shaking your fermenter!  Not necessary!  and yes there ARE 
     stainless steel air stones, that is what I use, I take mine and connect 
     it to the hose I use and boil the assembly for 1-2 minutes before use, 
     and then I use PURE O2!  I got an oxynater and use propane torch size 
     containers of O2.  I have found very good results using it and you can 
     get much more air into the wort when using O2 instead of air.  But 
     remember, only aerate before or just after pitching yeast, once 
     fermentation has started, air is a no-no!
     
     Have fun with it!
     
     Roger Ayotte


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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:11:56 EDT
From: Biergiek at aol.com
Subject:  Steaming

>Use of HERMS and Steam Injection might be appropriate >substitutes; however, 
IMHO they complicate use of the >system.

With all due respect, the steam injection is extremely simple, cost 
effective, and a much faster way to achieve temperature boosts with ramp 
rates in the order of 4F to 5F per minute (depending oupon the thermal mass 
of the mash and the heat input to the pressure cooker).

The steam injection is pretty simple.  I use a 6 qt. pcooker where I have 
drilled and tapped a 1/8" hole, and attached to this a ball valve and QD 
fitting. I then attach a 1/4" ID SS natural gas appliance supply line from 
the pcooker to the RIMS (or rimmer as Adam Bedford would say) heat chamber.  
It is a simple procedure to turn on the stove, let the pcooker pressurize to 
about 15 psi, then open the valve.  I can heat from 140F to 158F in less than 
5 minutes, or go from 104F for the Phreddy Fouch beta glucan rest to a 140F 
beta amylase rest in less than 10 minutes.  The pcooker has a rubber rupture 
disk that protects against over pressuring, if safety is a concern to some.

As far as the RIMS controller is concerned, I have been using a dimmer switch 
for the past three years that provides for me with a set and forget 
operation.  I would also recommend using a motor controller instead of 
throttling flow with a ball valve for the reasons discussed previously (see 
archives).  

Kyle

"that video is the most discusting thing I have ever seen"  -Todd "Hot Dog" 
Ed, he just won't let it rest.  


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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:17:02 -0400
From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com>
Subject:  Ale Storage and 5l Mini Kegs

Robin Griller ( rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca ) comments on storage of ales.
 

I will occasionally "lose" beers in my beer fridg for long peroids of 
time.
 I have found that ales will "lager" in time and lose a lot of  their
fruitiness.  For ales, this, I consider, is a degradation of flavor.  


Troy Kase (kasetroy at isu.edu)  Asks about 5 liter mini kegs.  I really 
like
the size of this package.  It is perfect for those who want to keg, but
don't want to devote a whole fridge to 5 gallon korny kegs.  There are 
some
problems with them though.  The biggest is the fact that they have a
tendency to over pressure and bulge if given enough opportunities.  The
causes are usually over priming, premature kegging or wild yeast.  We 
make
a bung with a pressure relief valve built into it that is set at about 
half
the pressure required to cause the bulging.  We have sold about 1000 of
these and have yet to hear of the first problem with them. 


The other problem is the taps.  They are expensive, unreliable and very
fragile.  Those attending the AHA conference got a preview of much better

systems.

General mini keg instructions are as follows:

Prime each keg with a tablespoon of sugar.  ( I don't use a priming 
bucket
for mini kegs.  I just fill from the fermenter )

When using the German taps be carefull to hold the dip tube near the keg
when breaching the bung or the dip tube can buckel.

Put a little keg lube on the CO2 cartridge's tip before installing to 
give
a better seal. 


Use the regulator as an on/off valve when the flow slows. ( If you leave
the regulator on all the time, the beer can over carbonate and waste CO2)


Fully draining the kegs after use can be a problem.  I insert a strip of
paper towel into the hole and press it against the head.  The keg is then

inverted and lain on a sheet of paper towel.  Most of the  water will 
wick
out of the keg.

With an improved tapping system, these kegs have a bright future for
microbreweries and brewpubs.

Dan Listermann       dan at listermann.com        72723.1707 at compuserve.com

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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:17:04 -0400
From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com>
Subject: Sweet Corn

Are there any problems with using raw ( undried ) sweet corn as an 
adjunct?
 It is getting toward that sacred time of the year and I thought some
Silver Queen Pale Ale sounds good.  Maybe just husk, cut the corns off, 
and
somehow liquify (blender?) the good stuff.  Or is this just a waste of 
good
sweet corn?

Dan Listermann    dan at listermann.com       72723.1707 at compuserve.com

Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 10:24:28
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net>
Subject: re: RIMS Controllers

Jonathan Peakall posted:

>I posted this question last week, and got no response. I am looking for a
>schematic for a RIMS controller. Does anyone even have a line on where I
>could look for one? 

I've not seen a simple one either; however, Ken Schwartz has a GREAT page
on electronic temp. measurement at:

http://hbd.org/users/mtippin/thermometer.html

The schematic at "Refrigerator Control" could be readily adapted for a
bang-bang type RIMS controller by twiddling with the resistors and/or pots
and using a solid state relay to control the heater in place of the std.
coil type relay.  I'd also stick in a manual by-pass switch and a lamp or
LED to indicate when the heater is on.  If you can build a system with a
decent recirculation flow, you could but the temp. sensor in the line
between the tun and heater.  I'd include at least a thermometer downstream
of the heater to help ensure the wort isn't overheated.
Oh, yeah, Ken mentions on his gadgets page that he's got one on paper.
Maybe give him a holler at kenbob at elp.rr.com

>Are there functional and or quality problems with RIMS?

The only chronic type problem I have had is low recirculation flow.  In my
system, the mash dT/dt between rests is proporational to the flow, hence,
low flow yield longer delays in acheiving the desired mash temp.  Worst
case was about 1/2 degF/min.

IMHO, the biggest hurdle in going the RIMS route, is the time and cost of
making one.  OTOH, if you're a tinkerer and like fooling around in the shop
and "gadteering", the time consideration is actually a plus.

>No-one seems to talk much about it here.

Maybe 'cause they've been discussed so much in the past?  Much
info/opinions are available via an archive search via hbd.org or 
hubris.engin.umich.edu:8080/cgi-bin/dothread

YMMV, but, my RIMS was cobbled together with no knowledge other than what
I've read in the HBD and on the web and a lot of advice and help from
others who preceeded me-  THANKS guys!!!

 
c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net 
http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/  



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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 14:52:57 GMT
From: mikey at swampgas.com (Michael A. Owings)
Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing)


Kris_G._Mueller at umit.maine.edu wroteth:

> Regarding the Zymurgy article on dishwasher sanitizing, did anyone else
> find the photo of the housewife offensively sexist? 

Nah -- I thought she was kinda hot...
***********************************
Go ahead ... try the sauce. The sauce is good. The sauce 
will make you YOUNG again...


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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:52:30 -0400
From: Paul Haaf <haafbrau1 at juno.com>
Subject: Table sugar

I decided to try a little experiment using table sugar in a brew. 
Although I'm sure there were some uncontrollable variables, several did
stay constant.
These were all 5 gallon batches.
5.5 lbs Muntons LME ( .5 gal)
Nottingham Ale yeast
2 oz Mt. Hood hops pellets- 1 oz for boil, 1 oz for finish.
(OK, so this varied a little, but the AA stayed pretty close)
Now the adjunct variable was 1.5 lbs.
Honey   or   Dextrose or  Honey & Dextrose  or Table Sugar

The table sugar stood out, and was not as clean tasting.  Although not
bad, I'd spend the extra money on more malt, honey, and/or dextrose. 
This was not done under special conditions admittedly, I just changed
adjuncts.  I was using up a 3 gal bucket of malt and figured  "why not?" 
 That's the advantage of buying in bulk.   Inquiring minds wanted to
know, and I was one of them.  No, I didn't take detailed notes, I was
just following my pattern of late with this particular bucket of LME.  
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.  Now to order my 3 gallon bucket
of Wheat LME.   No apologies for the LME, hop pellets or dry yeast.  I'm
lucky to find any time to brew at all, and this works for me.  Hoppy 4th
to all.
Paul
"Too many freaks, not enough circuses"
___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.


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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 15:03:59 GMT
From: mikey at swampgas.com (Michael A. Owings)
Subject: re: 3/8" vs 1/2" valves

Lynne said:

> Why would I want a 1/2" valve? 

While I don't use pumps personally, my understanding is that most mag
pumps want to be fed by a pipe of the same diameter as the pump inlet
- -- usually 1/2". Obviously there are ways around this (like using a
grant with a 1/2" outlet) but I would imagine having a 1/2" outlet on
the kettle would be more convenient. Again, I speak only from
experience gleaned shopping around for a pump which I never actually
bought...
***********************************
Go ahead ... try the sauce. The sauce is good. The sauce 
will make you YOUNG again...


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Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 10:58:35 -0500
From: "Steve Potter" <spotter at meriter.com>
Subject: On July 1 Jethro Said>>

On July 1 Jethro Said>>
I know I have already been scooped by Steve Potter, but some mentions 
deserve repetition...

>1) Al K and Louis Korzonas doing the "Clinitest Bop."
>http://homepages.isunet.net/brewer/clinitst.jpg 
>I believe that the copyright to this belongs to Steve Potter. I don't 
think
>he will mind.

Gee Jethro, talk about a scoop...Louis Korzonas...is the name change due 
to marriage or adoption? 8^)

As to the copyright...copy away.

As to getting the Seibel deal worked out for AHA members - bravo Jethro.

Steve Potter
Madison, WI


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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 12:07:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Robin Griller <rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca>
Subject: Canadian companies, the aha, and CABA

Hi all,

I was interested to see that Lallemand, of Montreal, Canada, is providing
goodies to members of the American Homebrewer's Association. Very
generous of them indeed. Does Rob know whether Lallemand is intending to
do something similar for members of CABA, the Canadian equivalent, or do
they prefer the larger market of our more populous neighbour south of
the border? Interesting to see such an announcement appearing on hbd the
day after Canada Day! 

Robin
p.s. I am not a member of either organization.



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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 17:58:10 -0400 
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: BUZZ OFF Results

The BUZZ OFF has posted the results of its recent competition on it's web
site at http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff/.  Congratulations to John
Varady on winning Best of Show and to Pat Bannon for winning the Delaware
Valley Home Brewer of the Year.  Thanks to Iron Hill Brewery and Restaurant
in West Chester, PA for hosting this event.  A special thanks to Chuck
Hanning and the members of BUZZ who volunteered and made this competition
successful once again.

Dave Houseman


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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 17:27:53 -0500
From: Jim Graham <jim at n5ial.gnt.com>
Subject: Call for ideas/developers:  freeware Tcl/Tk brew calculator

Before anyone says it, yes, I do know that there are already programs
out there that do this.  :-)    I just haven't found one (for Unix)
that does everything I want.  My solution, one that I've been thinking
about for some time now, is to do the same thing I did for a hurricane
tracking program:  write the beast...and make it portable to anything
that supports Tcl/Tk (Unix, Windows 95/98/NT, Macs, and possibly others).

Right now, I'm using a program called Brewer's Little Helper (BLH).
It's served me well over the last couple of years since I switched to
all-grain, but there is more that I'd like to see.

Before I start spending any time on it (and since it's hurricane season,
I need to work on JStrack, too!), I'd like to find out how many people
would be interested in A) using it (remember, it's going to be free---I
have *NO* intention of charging anything for it now or in the future),
and/or B) helping in its development.  I'm thinking along the lines of
so many other useful programs around the net that benefit from a group
of multi-talented developers working together.

Btw, I tend to get behind on reading e-mail lists, including the HBD,
so please CC me directly on responses at jim at n5ial.gnt.net.

The program I have in mind would, at a very minimum, want to do all of
the following:

   * be written entirely in Tcl and Tk (script) for portability and
     ease of development (note:  assume Tcl/Tk 8.0.x)
   * serve as a recipe calculator (like BLH does)
   * include both BJCP and AHA style guidelines and integrate them
     into the recipe calculator (the version of BLH that I have only
     supports an old version of the AHA guidelines)
   * include a database of grains, hops, yeasts, etc., with their
     characteristics, as well as a way for the user to update this
     data easily
   * serve as a brew log, with the ability to print a hardcopy
     for the brewer's logbook (for an example of what I have in
     mind, see mine on the HomeBrewers Underground web page at
     http://www.gnt.net/~n5ial/hbu)
   * ideally, I'd like to have a color chart (SRM), and if possible,
     show the (highly) approximate color as an image as well as a
     number (i.e., more or less what color the beer will be)
   * serve as an inventory keeper/log for grain and hops
   * for hops, show not only the total IBUs (Rager or Tinseth), but
     also the IBUs per addition (BLH does this) *AND* the percentage
     of the total IBUs
   * allow hop additions to be entered either as weight per hop per
     addition or as a percentage of the total target bitterness
   * for grain, show the percentage of the grain bill for each grain
   * allow the grain bill to be entered either as weight per grain
     or as a percentage of the total grain bill (using the user's
     extraction efficiency to calculate the total amount of grain
     required to meet the desired starting gravity for the target
     post-boil volume)
   * when used as an online brewing log, calculate (based on the
     pre-boil specific gravity and volume) the final volume for
     the target gravity and the approximate specific gravity for
     the target volume
   * support OG/FG as specific gravity and degrees Plato
   * remember values entered by the user:  if, for example, the
     East Kent Goldings I get is normally 4.2%AA, but I ended up with
     some at 4.5%, when I enter 4.5%, have that be the new default for
     that recipe (and ask the user if they want to change the system
     default)
   * track yeast usage and re-usage.  These days, I normally start up
     fresh yeast from a slant for each batch (I often don't brew with
     the same yeast again before it's been in the fridge too long
     after harvesting), but that isn't always going to be the case.
     The program needs to be able to track multiple generations of
     each yeast....
   * allow the brewer to make notes on the recipe---things to change
     for the next brew, and when the user bases a new recipe on the
     old one, ask if they want to include those changes

These are some of the ideas I've got, but I'm sure there are other
useful features that I've neglected to include here (e.g., things I do
so often that I don't even think about them anymore, or things that I
haven't even thought of).

So, does anyone have any other things they'd like to see?  Does anyone
want to contribute to the development of this thing (code and/or general
assistance, e.g., with formulas I might be lacking, etc.)?  And, is
anyone else interested in something like this?  Also, for future
reference (if/when this thing ever really gets off the ground), is
anyone willing to help test it on Windows 95/98/NT or the Mac?  I can
test it on Unix, but that's it.  With pure Tcl/Tk, there *SHOULDN'T* be
a problem on the other systems...but it's still best (obviously) to test
it there.  It's also (again, obviously) best to have more than one
person try to make it break and find any problems....

Let me know what y'all think....  Again, please CC me directly at
jim at n5ial.gnt.net in case I get as far behind again on the HBD as I
am right now (I'm trying to get caught up now).

Later,
   --jim

- -- 
73 DE N5IAL (/4)        | "Now what *you* need is a proper pint of
jim at n5ial.gnt.net       | porter poured in a proper pewter porter
ICBM / Hurricane:       | pot.."
   30.39735N 86.60439W  |    --Peter Dalgaard in alt.sysadmin.recovery



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Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 22:31:03 EDT
From: WeizenGuy at aol.com
Subject: Z V22 No4

	Am I the only one who read a condemnation for the HBD, 
rec.crafts.brewing, The Brewery and all the other pages and forums we hold so 
dear (and, by association, ALL OF US) in the quotes from Heller and Papazian 
in Sperazza's article swiped from Great Lakes Brewing News to fill the pages 
of the otherwise dying Zymurgy?!?

	And Papazian with his "grass roots" comment - didn''t the HBD website 
admonish the AHA to get back to their roots YEARS AGO? It seems to take a 
brick through their window in the form of a perceived general decline in all 
things brewing to wake them up. 

	What a joke. 

	(By the way, Charlie: One definition of surfeit is "disgust". 
Fitting. In your role as "Professor Surfeit, you respond to Seth Auger, and 
assume his "mini mash" comprised his entire fermentables! Stunning! I, on the 
other hand - one of those "mind-boggling" internet all-grainers would have 
advised him to mash at a higher temperature - 150'F, for instance - before 
adding the runnings to his extract batch rather than scare him off by making 
the assumptions YOU have. Kind of smacks of the pot calling the kettle black, 
now, doesn't it? Wonder which of us are closer to his real situation. You out 
there listening, Seth?)

 - Gerry Blalak
 - Somewhere between North and South. 
 - Nearer East than West.


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