HOMEBREW Digest #3073 Sat 03 July 1999

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Label Contest (Robert Johnson)
  Reynolds Tapper Keg Help (SCHNEIDERB)
  In search of nuttiness ("Michel J. Brown")
  Mini kegs (Julio Canseco)
  Sexy Housewives (Eric.Fouch)
  High Octane (Nathan Kanous)
  Crock Pot (Nathan Kanous)
  RE: aerators and counter flow wort chiller storage (Walt Lewis)
  Re: What are Micrococci? & sexist photo (Bill_Rehm)
  Hazy Kolsch (Dave Humes)
  RIMS controllers and Thanks! (Jonathan Peakall)
  wort chiller and shaking carboys (RCAYOT)
  Steaming (Biergiek)
  Ale Storage and 5l Mini Kegs (Dan Listermann)
  Sweet Corn (Dan Listermann)
  re: RIMS Controllers ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing) (Michael A. Owings)
  Table sugar (Paul Haaf)
  re: 3/8" vs 1/2" valves (Michael A. Owings)
  On July 1 Jethro Said>> ("Steve Potter")
  Canadian companies, the aha, and CABA (Robin Griller)
  BUZZ OFF Results ("Houseman, David L")
  Call for ideas/developers:  freeware Tcl/Tk brew calculator (Jim Graham)
  Z V22 No4 (WeizenGuy)

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Subscribe to the Distilled Beverage Digest * Send "subscribe" in body of note to dbd-request@hbd.org * Subscribe to the Home Vintners' Digest * Send "subscribe" in body of note to hvd-request@hbd.org Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org. **SUBSCRIBE AND UNSUBSCRIBE REQUESTS MUST BE SENT FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, the autoresponder and the SUBSCRIBE/UNSUBSCRIBE commands will fail! Contact brewery at hbd.org for information regarding the "Cat's Meow" Back issues are available via: HTML from... http://hbd.org Anonymous ftp from... ftp://hbd.org/pub/hbd/digests ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer AFS users can find it under... /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer COPYRIGHT for the Digest as a collection is currently held by hbd.org (Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen). Digests in their entirity CANNOT be reprinted/reproduced without this entire header section unless EXPRESS written permission has been obtained from hbd.org. Digests CANNOT be reprinted or reproduced in any format for redistribution unless said redistribution is at absolutely NO COST to the consumer. COPYRIGHT for individual posts within each Digest is held by the author. Articles cannot be extracted from the Digest and reprinted/reproduced without the EXPRESS written permission of the author. The author and HBD must be attributed as author and source in any such reprint/reproduction. (Note: QUOTING of items originally appearing in the Digest in a subsequent Digest is exempt from the above. Home brew clubs NOT associated with organizations having a commercial interest in beer or brewing may republish articles in their newsletters and/or websites provided that the author and HBD are attributed. ASKING first is still a great courtesy...) JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 23:46:49 -0700 From: robert at bobbrews.com (Robert Johnson) Subject: Label Contest Open to all... BOBBREWS Label Contest As part of our 3rd Anniversary, we will hold a homebrew label contest. The rules are simple. 1. It must be of your own design. (hand drawn, paste-up, computer generated) 2. NO Commercial brands (this is homebrew, treat this as if this was your dream label for your best homemade crafted beer) 3. 2 copies of the label must be submitted by July 30th to our address.They will not be returned. 4 There is no fee to enter. No purchase is necessary 5. Submission of your label includes the right to use the label/your name in advertising connected with the store if we so choose. 6 Three places will be awarded (1st, 2nd, 3rd) Prizes to be announced before contest deadline.(watch this page as we are arranging for the prizes as of right now) If we get enough responses to prize requests we may offer more. 7. The decision of judges is final. 8 ALL Prizes will be awarded August 1st. Winner need not be present. SEND before or DROP-OFF your labels at the store by July 30th. Brewer's Rendezvous Bobbrews Label Contest 11116 Downey Ave. Downey, CA 90241 If you are in-store on the 1st of August, each year we always have an in-store door prize drawing for glassware, t-shirts, homebrew kits, and the GRAND PRIZE each year has been a 5 gallon conical fermentor donated by BOBBREWS and Brewer's Rendezvous. (you do not have to be present for the grand prize). Join us that day for a light buffet and this year we will have homemade soda on tap. (sorry no brews as we have a beer & wine off-license) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 08:20:26 -0500 From: SCHNEIDERB at morganco.com Subject: Reynolds Tapper Keg Help I have just searched the past several years of HBD for how-to-use pointers about this old aluminum keg style I bought for novelty sake. I now own two of them, so I would like to actually use them. Archives show very few questions, no technical answers, and still leave me wanting. Basically: I found that the original mechanisms are outdated and not likely to be made to work. So the suggestions were to convert by adding a fitting so they can be attached to a CO2 tank. This replaces the old self contained gas cartridge inside the keg. I don't have a problem doing this and will eventually get there I suppose. But my questions are about opening the bottom cap area with the massive snap ring, and also about the spring loaded tapper handle mechanism on the top end. I would like to know how to get it all apart so it can go together again and be sealable and pressure tight. As the search indicated no replies to the hbd, I hope anyone in the the know will share with us all. If not choosing to do that I will summarize any replies and post the results. Outside of that, it's a 3 day weekend and if there is anything I figure out while playing with them I'll post as well. Thanks in advance - Brett Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 05:25:43 -0700 From: "Michel J. Brown" <homemade at spiritone.com> Subject: In search of nuttiness In a valiant effort to evince the nuances of what constitutes a "nutty" flavor in beer, I beseech those who have gone before me to elucidate on the aforementioned conundrum that I face. I've tried Caramunich II, Honey (malt), Special Roast, Toasted, and Victory malt as well as all the permutations of the above to no avail. Good Brown Ales were made, but sadly lacking in the "nutty" character I'm seeking. I tasted a wonderful Nut Brown Ale (of the Northern English variety) during the Spring Beer Festival (http://www.springbeerfest.com/) made by a gentleman named Greg (don't recall his last name) from Montana (or was it Wyoming?) and it was the grail. Well, maybe a grail shaped beacon ;^) At any rate, he was tight lipped about grain/hop bill and yeast, but said I was "...on the right track...", whatever that means. Any ideas, suggestions, opinions? Below is my most recent recipe (206th attempt) so far, and there's still another 514 permutations left! O.G 1.052 T.G. 1.013 Alc % 5.0 I.B.U. 24.7 S.R.M. 62.8 Ingredients for 5 gallon test batch: 5 lbs Pale Ale Malt 4 lbs Brown English Malt 4 oz Caramunich II Malt 4 oz Honey Malt 4 oz Special Roast 4 oz Victory Malt 0.5 oz Bullion 9.4% Boiled for 90 minutes 1 oz Kent-Goldings 5% Finishing hops at end of boil 1 tsp Calcium Chloride 1 tsp Irish Moss 16 oz Danstar Nottingham Dry yeast slurry Boil Time: 90 minutes Mashing Procedure: Mash Efficiency 75% with my system Add 3.125 gallons of water at 168 F to heat mash to 150 F Sparge with 4.25 gallons of water to yield 5.00 gallons to primary Ferment at 65'F for 3 days, transfer to carboy for one week, then condition for another 2~3 weeks. Share, and enjoy! Dr. Michel J. Brown, D.C. {Portland, OR} 2222 miles due west of Jeff Renner maxx_stryker at xoommail.com http://members.xoom.com/Maxx_Stryker/ "In the field of observation, chance favors only the prepared mind" L. Pasteur Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 20:40:58 -0400 From: Julio Canseco <jcanseco at arches.uga.edu> Subject: Mini kegs Troy Kase asks about mini kegs, Some folks like them some don't. I've had mine for about three years without any problems. Rules of thumb: 1) Prime your beer with 1/3 cup of priming sugar (no more or you run the risk of bulging/ruining your mini), 2) Fill up to an inch from the top, 3) Avoid storing your filled minis in a hot spot (kitchen pantry is good enough for me) 4) Make sure you have enough head room in your fridge for the mini with the tap 5) Start serving the first glasses with the natural carbonation pressure and then only add enough pressure to pour comfortably. 6) When keeping the mini in the fridge for a few days, add a shot of CO2 and close 7) The larger CO2 cartridges (16 oz ?) work better than the smaller ones. I use about one per mini. I have been lucky and never had a leak in my system. Good luck with yours. julio in athens, georgia once a newbie, always a newbie..... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 08:40:00 -0400 From: Eric.Fouch at steelcase.com Subject: Sexy Housewives >From: Kris_G._Mueller at umit.maine.edu (Kris G. Mueller) >Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing) > >Regarding the Zymurgy article on dishwasher sanitizing, did anyone else >find the photo of the housewife offensively sexist? >Kris Mueller >kris_mueller at umit.maine.edu I don't get Zymurgy. Can someone forward me the picture in question? Fred Garvin Bent Dick YoctoBrewery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 07:56:33 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: High Octane I've gotta get some of that high octane to put in my next Massive Ale. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 08:09:26 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Crock Pot Lee Bogardus asks about grain flour and adding grains in the grainbag to the boil pot and such. Although I moved on to all-grain brewing rather quickly (2 extract batches), I've always had some concerns of practices such as "steeping" a pound of crystal malt in 2 gallons of water. I don't want to get into the chemistry, but it doesn't sound like a good practice (tannin extraction?). I've also been tinkering with ways to make some very small pilot batches with different yeasts. Last night I used my crock pot! Two pounds of pale ale malt and 2.5 quarts of water (all american units). I heated the mash water and added the malt. Pulled a small "decoction" which I heated in the microwave. Added that "decoction" back and voila' 154 deg F. Mashed for about 75 minutes and transferred to a teenie weenie lauter tun and sparged with 1 gallon of 160 deg F water. Boiled just fine. I dont' have a small chiller so I transferred the wort to a small 1 gallon fermenter (nearly full of wort) and left it overnight. I poured off all of the break and hops this morning and pitched the yeast. This was easy to do. I would recommend it as an option for extract brewers that want to "steep" grains or do small partial mashes....or for some idiot like me that just needed to make a one gallon batch of beer. YMMV nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 09:10:24 -0500 From: Walt Lewis <wlewis at alliedlogistics.com> Subject: RE: aerators and counter flow wort chiller storage I've got a trick that aerates wort effortlessly and costs next to nothing. Take an 8-10 inch piece of rigid tubing that fits into the end of your discharge hose. Starting a couple of inches from one end, drill, poke, or burn lots and lots of holes around this tube. After you begin your siphon - -- or before you turn on your pump -- attatch this tube to the end of your discharge hose and drop the rigid tube into the opening of your fermenter. As the wort flows through the tube the venturi effect draws air into the wort and aerates like hell. I made one of these tubes for some friends and they went from an 18 hour lag to a 2 hour lag. Easy, Cheep, effortless. - -- DO NOT USE YOUR REPLY BUTTON TO REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE. In order to respond to this message convert the appropriate words in the reply address to symbols. Thank you. Pursuant to U.S Code, title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter 2, Sec 227 any and all nonsolicited Commercial Email sent to this address is subject to a download and Archival fee of $500.00 US dollars. Emailing Denotes acceptance of These Terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 08:12:39 -0600 From: Bill_Rehm at DeluxeData.com Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? & sexist photo Why can't people just lighten up! It's just a picture in a magazine, I'm sure many women have used dishwashers! Date: Thu, 1 Jul 1999 08:11:56 -0400 From: Kris_G._Mueller at umit.maine.edu (Kris G. Mueller) Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing) Regarding the Zymurgy article on dishwasher sanitizing, did anyone else find the photo of the housewife offensively sexist? Kris Mueller kris_mueller at umit.maine.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 99 09:23:30 -0400 From: Dave Humes <humesdg1 at earthlink.net> Subject: Hazy Kolsch Greetings, I made a Kolsch several weeks ago that is showing no signs of clarification during cold storage. I used Weissheimer Pils malt for 80% of the grist. Despite the fact that it is a continental malt, the typical analysis showed no evidence of undermodification (Kolbach =43.6%, FG-CG difference = 1.5%, friability=85%. So, I proceeded to infusion mash at 147F for 90 min. The other malts were 10% Munich and 10% wheat, but I have used these malts in similar amounts in other beers and have not had any haze problems. I don't think the haze is suspended yeast as it doesn't taste yeasty and I would think most of the yeast would have dropped after 3 weeks of cold storage. But, just in case it's the yeast, I used White Labs German Ale/Kolsch yeast. Any ideas? Does the Weissheimer Pils need a protein rest? Is the Kolsch yeast a really poor flocculator? Thanks. - -- - ----------------------------------------------------------- Dave Humes <humesdg1 at earthlink.net> Dave Humes - ----------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 06:34:29 -0700 From: Jonathan Peakall <jpeakall at mcn.org> Subject: RIMS controllers and Thanks! Whoa! In precise opposition to my first RIMS controller post, I have been buried under an avalanche of replies. Thanks, y'all!! It'll take me a few days to sort through it all, but then I'm sure I'll have more questions. If there is anyone out there who has built any other controller than the Rodney design I would be very interested in details. HBD: A veritable font of information...On tap, of course! Jonathan Peakall ******************************************** "I don't feel we did wrong in taking this great country away from them. There were great numbers of people who needed new land, and the Indians were selfishly trying to keep it for themselves." -- John Wayne ******************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: 02 Jul 1999 08:45:50 -0400 From: RCAYOT at solutia.com Subject: wort chiller and shaking carboys Joe Gibbens asks about sanitizing a wort chiller. I usually have a 32 gallon plastic trash pail filled with detergent-bleach mix the night before brewing out on the driveway. I soak my chiller about an hour before use, then rinse withe cold water, then hot water rinse, then it is ready for use. I clean up the same way (in reverse) rinse with cold, then hot water, then soak, then remove, rinse off the deter-bleach mix, then put it away. It probably gets really dirty sometimes between uses, but I wouldn't trust any kind of sanitizer/storage procedure that would make me not want to follow the pre-use sanitizing I do now. so I guess how you store it is not as important as how you sanitize it before use! also STOP shaking your fermenter! Not necessary! and yes there ARE stainless steel air stones, that is what I use, I take mine and connect it to the hose I use and boil the assembly for 1-2 minutes before use, and then I use PURE O2! I got an oxynater and use propane torch size containers of O2. I have found very good results using it and you can get much more air into the wort when using O2 instead of air. But remember, only aerate before or just after pitching yeast, once fermentation has started, air is a no-no! Have fun with it! Roger Ayotte Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:11:56 EDT From: Biergiek at aol.com Subject: Steaming >Use of HERMS and Steam Injection might be appropriate >substitutes; however, IMHO they complicate use of the >system. With all due respect, the steam injection is extremely simple, cost effective, and a much faster way to achieve temperature boosts with ramp rates in the order of 4F to 5F per minute (depending oupon the thermal mass of the mash and the heat input to the pressure cooker). The steam injection is pretty simple. I use a 6 qt. pcooker where I have drilled and tapped a 1/8" hole, and attached to this a ball valve and QD fitting. I then attach a 1/4" ID SS natural gas appliance supply line from the pcooker to the RIMS (or rimmer as Adam Bedford would say) heat chamber. It is a simple procedure to turn on the stove, let the pcooker pressurize to about 15 psi, then open the valve. I can heat from 140F to 158F in less than 5 minutes, or go from 104F for the Phreddy Fouch beta glucan rest to a 140F beta amylase rest in less than 10 minutes. The pcooker has a rubber rupture disk that protects against over pressuring, if safety is a concern to some. As far as the RIMS controller is concerned, I have been using a dimmer switch for the past three years that provides for me with a set and forget operation. I would also recommend using a motor controller instead of throttling flow with a ball valve for the reasons discussed previously (see archives). Kyle "that video is the most discusting thing I have ever seen" -Todd "Hot Dog" Ed, he just won't let it rest. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:17:02 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Ale Storage and 5l Mini Kegs Robin Griller ( rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca ) comments on storage of ales. I will occasionally "lose" beers in my beer fridg for long peroids of time. I have found that ales will "lager" in time and lose a lot of their fruitiness. For ales, this, I consider, is a degradation of flavor. Troy Kase (kasetroy at isu.edu) Asks about 5 liter mini kegs. I really like the size of this package. It is perfect for those who want to keg, but don't want to devote a whole fridge to 5 gallon korny kegs. There are some problems with them though. The biggest is the fact that they have a tendency to over pressure and bulge if given enough opportunities. The causes are usually over priming, premature kegging or wild yeast. We make a bung with a pressure relief valve built into it that is set at about half the pressure required to cause the bulging. We have sold about 1000 of these and have yet to hear of the first problem with them. The other problem is the taps. They are expensive, unreliable and very fragile. Those attending the AHA conference got a preview of much better systems. General mini keg instructions are as follows: Prime each keg with a tablespoon of sugar. ( I don't use a priming bucket for mini kegs. I just fill from the fermenter ) When using the German taps be carefull to hold the dip tube near the keg when breaching the bung or the dip tube can buckel. Put a little keg lube on the CO2 cartridge's tip before installing to give a better seal. Use the regulator as an on/off valve when the flow slows. ( If you leave the regulator on all the time, the beer can over carbonate and waste CO2) Fully draining the kegs after use can be a problem. I insert a strip of paper towel into the hole and press it against the head. The keg is then inverted and lain on a sheet of paper towel. Most of the water will wick out of the keg. With an improved tapping system, these kegs have a bright future for microbreweries and brewpubs. Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com 72723.1707 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:17:04 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Sweet Corn Are there any problems with using raw ( undried ) sweet corn as an adjunct? It is getting toward that sacred time of the year and I thought some Silver Queen Pale Ale sounds good. Maybe just husk, cut the corns off, and somehow liquify (blender?) the good stuff. Or is this just a waste of good sweet corn? Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com 72723.1707 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 10:24:28 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: re: RIMS Controllers Jonathan Peakall posted: >I posted this question last week, and got no response. I am looking for a >schematic for a RIMS controller. Does anyone even have a line on where I >could look for one? I've not seen a simple one either; however, Ken Schwartz has a GREAT page on electronic temp. measurement at: http://hbd.org/users/mtippin/thermometer.html The schematic at "Refrigerator Control" could be readily adapted for a bang-bang type RIMS controller by twiddling with the resistors and/or pots and using a solid state relay to control the heater in place of the std. coil type relay. I'd also stick in a manual by-pass switch and a lamp or LED to indicate when the heater is on. If you can build a system with a decent recirculation flow, you could but the temp. sensor in the line between the tun and heater. I'd include at least a thermometer downstream of the heater to help ensure the wort isn't overheated. Oh, yeah, Ken mentions on his gadgets page that he's got one on paper. Maybe give him a holler at kenbob at elp.rr.com >Are there functional and or quality problems with RIMS? The only chronic type problem I have had is low recirculation flow. In my system, the mash dT/dt between rests is proporational to the flow, hence, low flow yield longer delays in acheiving the desired mash temp. Worst case was about 1/2 degF/min. IMHO, the biggest hurdle in going the RIMS route, is the time and cost of making one. OTOH, if you're a tinkerer and like fooling around in the shop and "gadteering", the time consideration is actually a plus. >No-one seems to talk much about it here. Maybe 'cause they've been discussed so much in the past? Much info/opinions are available via an archive search via hbd.org or hubris.engin.umich.edu:8080/cgi-bin/dothread YMMV, but, my RIMS was cobbled together with no knowledge other than what I've read in the HBD and on the web and a lot of advice and help from others who preceeded me- THANKS guys!!! c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 14:52:57 GMT From: mikey at swampgas.com (Michael A. Owings) Subject: Re: What are Micrococci? (Re: Dishwasher sanitizing) Kris_G._Mueller at umit.maine.edu wroteth: > Regarding the Zymurgy article on dishwasher sanitizing, did anyone else > find the photo of the housewife offensively sexist? Nah -- I thought she was kinda hot... *********************************** Go ahead ... try the sauce. The sauce is good. The sauce will make you YOUNG again... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:52:30 -0400 From: Paul Haaf <haafbrau1 at juno.com> Subject: Table sugar I decided to try a little experiment using table sugar in a brew. Although I'm sure there were some uncontrollable variables, several did stay constant. These were all 5 gallon batches. 5.5 lbs Muntons LME ( .5 gal) Nottingham Ale yeast 2 oz Mt. Hood hops pellets- 1 oz for boil, 1 oz for finish. (OK, so this varied a little, but the AA stayed pretty close) Now the adjunct variable was 1.5 lbs. Honey or Dextrose or Honey & Dextrose or Table Sugar The table sugar stood out, and was not as clean tasting. Although not bad, I'd spend the extra money on more malt, honey, and/or dextrose. This was not done under special conditions admittedly, I just changed adjuncts. I was using up a 3 gal bucket of malt and figured "why not?" That's the advantage of buying in bulk. Inquiring minds wanted to know, and I was one of them. No, I didn't take detailed notes, I was just following my pattern of late with this particular bucket of LME. That's my story, and I'm sticking to it. Now to order my 3 gallon bucket of Wheat LME. No apologies for the LME, hop pellets or dry yeast. I'm lucky to find any time to brew at all, and this works for me. Hoppy 4th to all. Paul "Too many freaks, not enough circuses" ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 15:03:59 GMT From: mikey at swampgas.com (Michael A. Owings) Subject: re: 3/8" vs 1/2" valves Lynne said: > Why would I want a 1/2" valve? While I don't use pumps personally, my understanding is that most mag pumps want to be fed by a pipe of the same diameter as the pump inlet - -- usually 1/2". Obviously there are ways around this (like using a grant with a 1/2" outlet) but I would imagine having a 1/2" outlet on the kettle would be more convenient. Again, I speak only from experience gleaned shopping around for a pump which I never actually bought... *********************************** Go ahead ... try the sauce. The sauce is good. The sauce will make you YOUNG again... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 10:58:35 -0500 From: "Steve Potter" <spotter at meriter.com> Subject: On July 1 Jethro Said>> On July 1 Jethro Said>> I know I have already been scooped by Steve Potter, but some mentions deserve repetition... >1) Al K and Louis Korzonas doing the "Clinitest Bop." >http://homepages.isunet.net/brewer/clinitst.jpg >I believe that the copyright to this belongs to Steve Potter. I don't think >he will mind. Gee Jethro, talk about a scoop...Louis Korzonas...is the name change due to marriage or adoption? 8^) As to the copyright...copy away. As to getting the Seibel deal worked out for AHA members - bravo Jethro. Steve Potter Madison, WI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 12:07:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Robin Griller <rgriller at chass.utoronto.ca> Subject: Canadian companies, the aha, and CABA Hi all, I was interested to see that Lallemand, of Montreal, Canada, is providing goodies to members of the American Homebrewer's Association. Very generous of them indeed. Does Rob know whether Lallemand is intending to do something similar for members of CABA, the Canadian equivalent, or do they prefer the larger market of our more populous neighbour south of the border? Interesting to see such an announcement appearing on hbd the day after Canada Day! Robin p.s. I am not a member of either organization. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 17:58:10 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: BUZZ OFF Results The BUZZ OFF has posted the results of its recent competition on it's web site at http://www.voicenet.com/~rpmattie/buzzoff/. Congratulations to John Varady on winning Best of Show and to Pat Bannon for winning the Delaware Valley Home Brewer of the Year. Thanks to Iron Hill Brewery and Restaurant in West Chester, PA for hosting this event. A special thanks to Chuck Hanning and the members of BUZZ who volunteered and made this competition successful once again. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 17:27:53 -0500 From: Jim Graham <jim at n5ial.gnt.com> Subject: Call for ideas/developers: freeware Tcl/Tk brew calculator Before anyone says it, yes, I do know that there are already programs out there that do this. :-) I just haven't found one (for Unix) that does everything I want. My solution, one that I've been thinking about for some time now, is to do the same thing I did for a hurricane tracking program: write the beast...and make it portable to anything that supports Tcl/Tk (Unix, Windows 95/98/NT, Macs, and possibly others). Right now, I'm using a program called Brewer's Little Helper (BLH). It's served me well over the last couple of years since I switched to all-grain, but there is more that I'd like to see. Before I start spending any time on it (and since it's hurricane season, I need to work on JStrack, too!), I'd like to find out how many people would be interested in A) using it (remember, it's going to be free---I have *NO* intention of charging anything for it now or in the future), and/or B) helping in its development. I'm thinking along the lines of so many other useful programs around the net that benefit from a group of multi-talented developers working together. Btw, I tend to get behind on reading e-mail lists, including the HBD, so please CC me directly on responses at jim at n5ial.gnt.net. The program I have in mind would, at a very minimum, want to do all of the following: * be written entirely in Tcl and Tk (script) for portability and ease of development (note: assume Tcl/Tk 8.0.x) * serve as a recipe calculator (like BLH does) * include both BJCP and AHA style guidelines and integrate them into the recipe calculator (the version of BLH that I have only supports an old version of the AHA guidelines) * include a database of grains, hops, yeasts, etc., with their characteristics, as well as a way for the user to update this data easily * serve as a brew log, with the ability to print a hardcopy for the brewer's logbook (for an example of what I have in mind, see mine on the HomeBrewers Underground web page at http://www.gnt.net/~n5ial/hbu) * ideally, I'd like to have a color chart (SRM), and if possible, show the (highly) approximate color as an image as well as a number (i.e., more or less what color the beer will be) * serve as an inventory keeper/log for grain and hops * for hops, show not only the total IBUs (Rager or Tinseth), but also the IBUs per addition (BLH does this) *AND* the percentage of the total IBUs * allow hop additions to be entered either as weight per hop per addition or as a percentage of the total target bitterness * for grain, show the percentage of the grain bill for each grain * allow the grain bill to be entered either as weight per grain or as a percentage of the total grain bill (using the user's extraction efficiency to calculate the total amount of grain required to meet the desired starting gravity for the target post-boil volume) * when used as an online brewing log, calculate (based on the pre-boil specific gravity and volume) the final volume for the target gravity and the approximate specific gravity for the target volume * support OG/FG as specific gravity and degrees Plato * remember values entered by the user: if, for example, the East Kent Goldings I get is normally 4.2%AA, but I ended up with some at 4.5%, when I enter 4.5%, have that be the new default for that recipe (and ask the user if they want to change the system default) * track yeast usage and re-usage. These days, I normally start up fresh yeast from a slant for each batch (I often don't brew with the same yeast again before it's been in the fridge too long after harvesting), but that isn't always going to be the case. The program needs to be able to track multiple generations of each yeast.... * allow the brewer to make notes on the recipe---things to change for the next brew, and when the user bases a new recipe on the old one, ask if they want to include those changes These are some of the ideas I've got, but I'm sure there are other useful features that I've neglected to include here (e.g., things I do so often that I don't even think about them anymore, or things that I haven't even thought of). So, does anyone have any other things they'd like to see? Does anyone want to contribute to the development of this thing (code and/or general assistance, e.g., with formulas I might be lacking, etc.)? And, is anyone else interested in something like this? Also, for future reference (if/when this thing ever really gets off the ground), is anyone willing to help test it on Windows 95/98/NT or the Mac? I can test it on Unix, but that's it. With pure Tcl/Tk, there *SHOULDN'T* be a problem on the other systems...but it's still best (obviously) to test it there. It's also (again, obviously) best to have more than one person try to make it break and find any problems.... Let me know what y'all think.... Again, please CC me directly at jim at n5ial.gnt.net in case I get as far behind again on the HBD as I am right now (I'm trying to get caught up now). Later, --jim - -- 73 DE N5IAL (/4) | "Now what *you* need is a proper pint of jim at n5ial.gnt.net | porter poured in a proper pewter porter ICBM / Hurricane: | pot.." 30.39735N 86.60439W | --Peter Dalgaard in alt.sysadmin.recovery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 22:31:03 EDT From: WeizenGuy at aol.com Subject: Z V22 No4 Am I the only one who read a condemnation for the HBD, rec.crafts.brewing, The Brewery and all the other pages and forums we hold so dear (and, by association, ALL OF US) in the quotes from Heller and Papazian in Sperazza's article swiped from Great Lakes Brewing News to fill the pages of the otherwise dying Zymurgy?!? And Papazian with his "grass roots" comment - didn''t the HBD website admonish the AHA to get back to their roots YEARS AGO? It seems to take a brick through their window in the form of a perceived general decline in all things brewing to wake them up. What a joke. (By the way, Charlie: One definition of surfeit is "disgust". Fitting. In your role as "Professor Surfeit, you respond to Seth Auger, and assume his "mini mash" comprised his entire fermentables! Stunning! I, on the other hand - one of those "mind-boggling" internet all-grainers would have advised him to mash at a higher temperature - 150'F, for instance - before adding the runnings to his extract batch rather than scare him off by making the assumptions YOU have. Kind of smacks of the pot calling the kettle black, now, doesn't it? Wonder which of us are closer to his real situation. You out there listening, Seth?) - Gerry Blalak - Somewhere between North and South. - Nearer East than West. Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/03/99, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96