HOMEBREW Digest #3095 Thu 29 July 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re:  Belgian beers? ("J. Matthew Saunders")
  Canadian Amateur Brewers Association's Brew Your Own Beer Seminar ("Rob Jones")
  Propane Burners and Brian R. (dlambright)
  false bottoms for mash tuns (jgibbens)
  Re: Evap Cooling? / Wort chill times (jgibbens)
  re:Pasteur effect (Ilkka Sysil{)
  Permanent Disfigurement?? ("Phil and Jill Yates")
  re: rapping, Refrigerated Yeast, RIMS design? ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Orange Peel ("Fred L. Johnson")
  re: Brian Brew Ha Ha (Dan Cole)
  RE: Newbie ("Frank J. Russo")
  Weizen ("Mike Piersimoni")
  Air/Respiration/Calories (AJ)
  Vendor question: Beer, Beer & More Beer ("Bob Scott")
  Beer & Sweat Party` (Dan Listermann)
  Magazine request (ALAN KEITH MEEKER)
  Hose Length (RCAYOT)
  Wordsmiths (ALAN KEITH MEEKER)
  My last word on Brian, Paul, and the AHA (Jeff Pursley)
  The Great Budweiser Conspiracy (Ian Forbes)
  Grits, John Smith bitter (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Brewing English ales... (Jeff Renner)
  Homebrew shops in Europe (Michael Rose)
  pressure drop & other xfer phenomena/organizations (Lou.Heavner)
  pCooking/Maillard Worts, Pasteur efect (Dave Burley)
  Re:  raspberry or woodruff syrup in a berliner weiss ("Poirier, Bob")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 20:06:18 -0600 From: "J. Matthew Saunders" <matthew-saunders at uswest.net> Subject: Re: Belgian beers? larson.jt at pg.com writes: >A friend recently brought me two .75L bottles of beer from Belgium. I plan to >try them soon, but would appreciate any description available. One he >described >as "dishwater flavor" (Yum). They are both made by "F. Boon". One is a >"Kriek", the other a "Geuze". Any help is appreciated. Both are Belgian Lambics--a wonderful beer style that employs infection of the beer with brettnomyces. This imparts a sour flavour that might have a bit of barnyard odours and flavours to it. The MOST complex and interesting beer I have ever tasted is Hannsens Oud Geuze--I still have 4 bottles in my cellar to be savoured on a special occasion. Geuze is a blend of aged and young lambics. Kriek is a lambic that has undergone a secondary fermentation with cherries. It too will have the sourness of the geuze, but will also have a wonderful cherry aroma and flavour. I'm assuming that you don't have belgian glassware. That being the case, drink your lambics out of a wine goblet. It will add to the flavours and aromas. Cheers! Matthew now in CO "We have to work in the theatre of our own time, with the tools of our own time" --Robert Edmond Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 22:22:50 -0500 From: "Rob Jones" <robjones at pathcom.com> Subject: Canadian Amateur Brewers Association's Brew Your Own Beer Seminar Hi, We're holding a "first batch" Brew Your Own Beer Seminar to stimulate some interest from the un-initiated homebrewers out there. It will be a combination seminar and demo of the process of making a batch of malt extract based brown ale with speciality grains and hops added. The $15 dollar entrance fee will include membership in CABA until the end of 2000, 15% off the necessary start-up equipment and hops from Brew Your Own on McCaul St. in Toronto, free speciality grains and malt extract for the recipe supplied by Premier Malts, and take home notes with seminar recipe included. The seminar will be held at C'est What?, Front St.,Toronto, on Sunday September 26, starting at 2pm. Good Brewing, Rob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 99 21:57:33 -600 From: dlambright at socket.net Subject: Propane Burners and Brian R. Hello: In my continuing development as a homebrewer, I recently moved out of my apartment into a house with a real live basement. I'm trying to figure out exactly how to set the basement up (visions of dedicated refridgerators, full grain set ups, and kegging systems dancing in my head) and have some questions about propane cookers. I've got an outdoor cooker right now that has served me well in the past, when I was breweing on my balcony. I'm afraid to use it in the basement, which only has one window. I can set up fans and install a carbon monoxide alarm, but I'm concerned that I would still be creating a deathtrap. What's the best solution for brewing indoors (other than a stove)? Are there cookers designed for inside use? Maybe something other than propane? Now, about Brian being sacked from AHA. I'm no a member, and my involvment with the group is only what I've read in the HBD (there's not even a club around here), but I'd like to echo Dave Houseman's comments in HBD #3092. As I've read the recent storm of posts, both here and on the Brewery's message board, it seems to me that none of us really know that much about the circumstances surrounding this action. Do any of us know exactly what Paul meant by his comments about Brian not meeting administrative requirements? It sounds like Brian was great at PR and working for the membership, but was that his job? Has anyone seen a job description stating what Brian was supposed to be doing? Having worked in administration in a public agency, I know that things are often not what they seem--especially in personnel issues. I'm not trying to argue one side or the other in this question, so please don't turn on the flames... :-) I'm simply trying to point out how little we really know about this situation. I know nothing about Brian, but he must be pretty cool to inspire this much outrage over his firing. That doesn't change the fact, however, that none of us really know the true situation. Now, maybe someone out there does. If that's the case, that's a whole 'nother ballgame and I would like for that person to speak out and enlighten us. In the meantime, most of the outrage I'm seeing seems to be a bit premature. Just my $.02... Thanks for listening. Donovan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 1999 23:31:19 -0500 (CDT) From: jgibbens at umr.edu Subject: false bottoms for mash tuns Hello all, I'm building a new 10 gal mash tun based on a Gott water cooler. Does anyone have any tricks for sealing the false bottom to the sides and still being able to remove it? Thanks. Joe Gibbens Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 00:22:16 -0500 (CDT) From: jgibbens at umr.edu Subject: Re: Evap Cooling? / Wort chill times No, I've never tried evaporative cooling. Instead of making your "its NOT a dry heat" even worse, how about getting a small refridgerator and installing a temp specific thermostat? If thats too expensive, you can try using a basement floor as a heat sink. Our house is air conditioned to 78F, but by placing my fermenter on a concrete floor, it has stabilized at 72F. Hey, thanks for the S.G table. unfortunately my hydrometer just got cracked from a hot wort experience. Regarding wort chillers, have you ever looked into using a counter flow chiller? The comercial ones are expensive but its easy to build one. Take 20' of 3/8" OD, 1/4" ID copper tube and insert it into a 5/8 ID flexible vilyl tube. Then coil it. Drill out 2 compression fittings for the copper tube with a bit slightly over 3/8". Solder the compression fittings into 2 1/2" copper T fittings. On the sides of the T opposite the compression fittings, insert 2 small pieces of 1/2" hard copper tubing for the 5/8" hose to clamp on to. A garden hose will fit over the remaining part of the T. I run mine with 55F well water, and it works fine. If you can't build the fittings, they are available at homebrew stores. (Phill chill) no association. About the Newbie stuff, It is generally not a good idea to P#s$ off a free source of information, especially if you're a Newbie like me. What did you say to him anyway? Joe Gibbens Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:06:41 +0000 (EEST) From: Ilkka Sysil{ <isysila at clinet.fi> Subject: re:Pasteur effect Hellox! Go down to Crabtree effect, a.k.a. "Reverse Pasteur Effect". Amply malty regards, Ilkka Sysila (the author of "Small-Scale Brewing") Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 18:53:35 +1000 From: "Phil and Jill Yates" <yates at flexgate.infoflex.com.au> Subject: Permanent Disfigurement?? >if you continue to insult me >I will definitely demonstrate how (for the first time) to tear a newbie from >limb to limb. > >Happy Brewing >Phil Yates. "I like the part where he mentions permanent disfigurement and then wishes us all happy brewing! What a swell guy, I think he really cares." Dear T?, Tom?, Can I call you Thomas? I never made any mention of permanent disfigurement! This is outrageous slander and punishable by having to spend a day with Fred Garvin at the BentDick. Oh you won't do this again after a day with Fred! You cannot possibly know that I always, ALWAYS replace removed limbs!! On the matter of your evapo cooling, it seems that you have answered your own question. Yes it does work and if you stand the fermenter in a dish of water you can drape the ends of the towel into the water to keep up the cooling supply. This is the same principle we use out here with canvas water bags strapped to the front of our cars. Out here in summer even the dingoes retreat to the pub for a beer! The dryer the atmosphere the better the evaporation cooling technique will work. I used to find I could keep the fermenter up to 6C cooler with this method. But it still wasn't the answer so I plunged into refrigeration instead. Five fridges later......... Cheers Phil Yates The Loving Caring One. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 1999 10:54:51 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: re: rapping, Refrigerated Yeast, RIMS design? Christopher Farley posted: >AJ talks about rapping bottles to cause overfoaming in counterpressure >bottle filling. This allows you to cap on foam... I personally find >it unproductive to cause foaming after I've painstakingly filled a >bottle with the intent of eliminating foaming. Rather than rapping the bottle, what I do is withdraw the counterpressure bottle filler so the filling tube is just above the level of brew in the bottle the bottle then tease open the CO2 valve. This will fill the vapor space with foam with no loss of carbonation from rapping. It does take a bit of practice to get it right. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Scott Johnson asked if he should use some yeast he'd stored in the fridge without feeding for a few weeks and a couple of months. I've used yeast (Wyeast 1056 and Calif. Lager) that was stored at ~45 degF and topped with fermented out wort several times. Four months has been the longest. Usually the yeast is from the primary and is about 1-2" of yeast in a qt. mason jar. I always make a starter with it since some batches of it are a bit slow to take off. To reduce thermal shock, I insulate the jar with a jacket affair made from camping pad foam. Don't know if this actually helps, but it does make me feel better. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Doug Brown asked re: RIMS heater sizing: >Does anybody out there know a calculation for BTU based on cal/minute >assuming 100 percent efficiency. Fiddling with info from Marks' ME handbook, 1 BTU = 252 cal For the usual electric element in a tube recirc. RIMS heater, the following is useful: 1kW = 7 degF increase across the heater at 1 GPM. With my system, I get about 5 degF dt at 1 GPM. Need a minor correction for the difference in specific heat between wort and water, and, if your really pickly, for mash temp. vs. the 70 degF that the conversion above is based on. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 05:29:38 -0400 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Orange Peel For the Belgian Ale enthusiasts: A few questions about orange peel for Belgian ales: Many Belgian recipes specify Curacao bitter orange peel. Does this mean the zest of the orange peel or does it mean to grind the entire peel up? Or does one add it in large chunks? More importantly, how does one obtain such an ingredient? Are there any substitution? Surely there are some American-grown, readily available oranges that could adequately be substituted. Advice? - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 06:22:49 -0400 From: Dan Cole <dcole at roanoke.infi.net> Subject: re: Brian Brew Ha Ha Gentlemen, I beg your indulgence... Dave Houseman says: >The AHA staff is down to two full time people (although there is some >support staffs in the AOB). Organization isn't working out like it is >supposed to be. So what do they do? Can't afford to hire more people. >It's an unfortunate business decision that Paul took but a courageous one. >Personally, I really like Brian as well. He's the sort of people we want >in the hobby and in the AHA. But if the AHA is to help their members by >providing the services you want, then they have to have the ability to >staff accordingly to make that happen. Get all the facts, then think about it >before sounding off.... Dave, I must respectfully disagree. Coming from the strategic side of business, I have some exposure to business/organizational strategies/theories. In the past, "Cost Control' has been the en vogue theory, which incorporated the theories of reorganization, reengineering, "slashing and burning", layoffs, etc. At some point, managers realized that there was a huge amount of fixed overhead functions that could not be ultimately reduced (you still needed an accounting department, an accounts payable dept, payroll, management, etc.) and the true key to success was to spread the fixed costs over an increasing base of volume. In other words, if you can't cut overhead anymore, find out a way to sell more widgets and keep your overhead from growing proportionally. If you could do 10% more volume of business, but only increase your fixed/overhead costs by 5%, you would be ahead of the game. Thus the theory of "Growth". How does this relate to the AHA? Office employees = overhead. Memberships = widgets. If the AHA is seeing declining membership (is this reported in their tax filings), they maybe should not look at cost control as the "solution" to declining profits and look towards "growth". Spread those fixed costs over an increasing base of volume. How does the AHA grow? Like any business, by providing "value". What is the current value provide by the AHA? Subscriptions to Zymurgy, AHA only competitions, AHA discounts, efforts on legalization, promotion of homebrewing, etc. Compare a search of the HBD for "Zymurgy" and "Brewing Techniques" and you'll see the relative value (to this group) of the magazines. How many homebrew competitions are there in the country, and how many sponsored by the AHA? Probably a small minority. Sure, winning an AHA competition stands for more, but that is just a perception thing; they are both judged by the same BJCP judges, etc. Discounts offered by the AHA may be a legitimate value not seen elsewhere. But as I understand it the biggest benefit is a discount to GABF. What percentage of members utilize this benefit? And as has been mentioned in prior HBD's, the AHA has been missing from recent legalization battles (either from intentional exclusion or lack of perceived value in the effort). Finally (for me on this topic), the AHA has been "couped" by BT in the promotion of homebrewing. Where was the AHA when BT was working on the Hombrew Publicity Campaign (creating affordable, high quality commercials for use by local homebrew shops)? Where is the AHA now on the HPC? My opinions are my own, Dan Cole Roanoke, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 07:34:59 -0400 From: "Frank J. Russo" <FJRusso at coastalnet.com> Subject: RE: Newbie >From: James Jerome <jkjerome at bellsouth.net> >Subject: newby 1st posting...1) Does anyone have any ale recipes/experience using grits as an adjunct? << Welcome and do not be afraid to post. What doesn't kill you will only make you stronger. You are guaranteed to learn something hear. I recently made a CAP's, Classic American Pilsner, using grits and corn meal. My local store, Homebrew Haus, did not have flaked maze at the time. I questioned members here as to how to properly cook the adjunct and why I am cooking it. I now have a good understanding, allowing to better use adjuncts in my brews. The one thing I did not find out is when cooking corn how do I know when I am done? The corn, mixed with .5# malt, was first held at 130F 20 minutes / 155F 30 minutes / Boiled 90 minutes. Then on cooliong to 170F added to my main mash. My brew is still in the secondary, and I am 800 miles from home, so I do not know how it has turned out just yet. Possibly this weekend I will get to find out. Here is the recipe I used: Mild Ale Malt #7.75 Weissheimer Munich #1.00 Flaked Maize #2.50 Hallertau 1.oz 3.1% 60 min Pellet Perle 0.50oz 7.0% 60 min Pellet Hallertau 0.50oz 3.8% 10 min Pellet (5 Gal) OG. 1.050-1.060 Frank Havelock, NC FJRusso at Coastalnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 07:45:03 -0700 From: "Mike Piersimoni" <msp at dplus.net> Subject: Weizen Just made a batch of Crystal Raspberry Weizen. I used Weizenstephen yeast from White Labs and was trying for little more banana then what I achieved. I read the temperature should be around 68 deg F and the higher it is 70-72 deg) the more banana I'll get. My average temp.was around (70-72). Just kegged it and was wondering what I could do at this point to achieve more banana. MIke Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 12:31:45 +0000 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Air/Respiration/Calories Harlan Bauer asks about cleaning up air for continuously aerated yeast propagation. It's my personal feeling that one should simply avoid having to worry about this potential source of infection by using bottled oxygen (or molecularly sieved oxygen if one can justify the expense of the sieve) rather than air. Obviously this is more expensive because the air is free (so is the oxygen from a sieve) but it shouldn't be terribly so if the oxygen is metered. I have in mind for my own use the following scheme (you all know about my ever lengthening list of things I want to do): Four 2L flasks on a shaker each fitted with a fritted stainless aeration stone fed by an electically operated valve (see the Cole Parmer Catalog). One of the flasks also holds the probe from a DO meter with an analog output (e.g. my old Orion 860). The ananlog output goes to a voltage input on a suitable controller (in my case I'd use the PID controller I use during mashing - it just gathers dust otherwise) and an on-off output would operate the gas valve. Adjust the set point for the voltage corresponding to a desired O2 level, put in some hysteresis and you're off and running. Judging by the amount of O2 required to oxygenate starters and worts manually to 200% or so I'd be surprised if that much oxygen got used. Without a controller the system could simply be pulsed on for say 30 seconds every half hour or so using a simple timer. The amazing ingenuity of HBD readers could doubtless come up with dozzens of schemes to obtain the same result. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * On the same subject, Nathaniel Lansing wonders about my statement that continuous oxygenation holds yeast in growth phase. Note that the phrase I used was "growth phase" and not "respiration phase". Many posters to and readers of this digest have gotten all wrapped up over the use of oxygen by yeast and a search of the archives on this subject will unearth a rainy afternoon's (at least) reading. The central cause of difficulty is, I think, that biochemists (amateur and professional) have a very narrow definition of what constitutes respiration and that is a process called "oxidative phosphorylation". Respiration, thus defined, is not the only way an organism uses oxygen. It turns out that >brewing strains< of S. cerevesiae do not "respire" in the presence of glucose above a rather modest level but given oxygen (and suitable nutrients) they will consume it to produce biomass, in particular, cell membrane material. Respiration, OTOH, produces only water, CO2 and ATP (energy). * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Today's Tip From Commercial Brewing is a copy of something I posted to IBS Brewer's Forum a few days back concerning caloric content of beer. That's a question that comes up here from time to time. John Watt asked: >Does anyone know if there is a way to estimate calories and/or sugar >content of >a beer based on the OG and FG? ASBC Method Beer-33 gives the caloric content of beer as Calories/100g = 6.9*ABW + 4(Real Extract - Ash) Calories/mL = (calories/100g)*(specific gravity)/100 where Real Extract in in degrees Plato and Ash is the % ash content of the beer by weight. ABW can be estimated from initial and final gravities by ABW = (0.39661 + 0.0017091*Po + 1.0788E-5*Po^2)*(Po - Pf) where Po is the original extract (Plato) and Pf is the apparent extract (also Plato). This formula represents a least squares fit to Balling's table. Real extract is reasonably easily estimated by measuring 100 mL of beer in a volumetric flask, transferring quantitiatively (i.e. rinse the flask with distilled water and add the rinsings) to a beaker and evaporating to about 30 mL. Return to the volumetric flask. Rinse the beaker and add the rinsings to the flask and then make up to 100 mL. Now measure the gravity and convert to Plato. Alternatively, the real extract can be estimated quite closely by Real_extract = Po + 0.010665*ABW*Po - 2.0665*ABW Ash will probably be a couple of tenths of a % at most and can, thus, be ignored. Carbohydrates are specified (ASBC Method Beer-6) as the real extract less protein and ash. Protein is a bit dicey to measure but is usually small relative to the real extract as is ash. Thus, for a rough approximation, estimate the sugars as the real extract. [Ref. DeClerk Vol II p 426 - 428] - -- A. J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 06:19:02 -0700 From: "Bob Scott" <rrscott at jps.net> Subject: Vendor question: Beer, Beer & More Beer I've ordered via internet 4 times. Got what I ordered with no problems. Bob Scott >From: Bruce & Amber Carpenter <alaconn at arkansas.net >Subject: Vendor question >Greetings, >Has anyone had experience ordering from Beer, Beer & More Beer in >Concord, CA? I am interested in ordering from them, but being out here >in the wilds of south Arkansas, I have no way of visiting them >personally. Any comments? >Thanks! >Bruce Carpenter Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:41:15 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Beer & Sweat Party` Rod Prather ( rodpr at iquest.net ) asks about the Bloatarian sacred festival called "Beer and Sweat" which celebrates the obivious quite well thank you. This year, as it has been for some time, it will be held at the Springdale, Ohio ( really Cincinnati) Howard Johnson's back parking lot away from prying eyes. The date is Saturday August 14, 1999 and the time is about when they get the tent up ( 11:00 am) to whenever the last participant falls over. A fiver gets you in. We sponsor a beer competition that requires the beer to be delivered in kegs - no bottles. We like lots of beer and this seems to work. Last year we had 120 kegs on tap. All entries must be preregestered. Check out the Bloatarian page of hbd.org. We also offer the BJCP exam that day! Feel free to contact me at (513) 731-1130, (513) 731-3938 fax or 72723.1707 at compuserve.com Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:47:18 -0400 (EDT) From: ALAN KEITH MEEKER <ameeker at welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Magazine request Hi. I'm looking to buy recent back issues of Brewing Techniques but am too cheap to pay the back issue prices from the publisher. Anyone have some lying around they'd like to sell? -Alan Meeker Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Jul 1999 08:39:10 -0400 From: RCAYOT at solutia.com Subject: Hose Length Thanks to whoever thought up this thread title! I think that Dave is on the right track. The pressure from the keg is transmitted throught the beer line to the dispense valve, and if you put a pressure guage on the end of the line it would read the same as the pressure in the keg....eventually... depending on the viscosity of the beer, or tranmitting hydraulic fluid. The drop in pressure when dispensing beer is caused by the beers viscosity and the fact that the flow rate of beer at the wall of the hose is zero, the flow rate in the center of the line is higher, and the flow rate gradient is called the shear rate. The viscosity of the beer causes an energy drop along the length of hose. There are two problems with dispensing beer and foaming, the first problem is with high shear rate, this can cause the CO2 to come out of solution and cause foam. For example, just crack the valve on your dispense slightly, what happens? The beer that does come out is really foamy. The second problem is velocity. If you have your beer exiting the dispense at high velocity, when it hits the glass, it shears itself, and foam happens! The reason a long length of beer line works is that it reduces the exit velocity (PRESSURE) at low shear rate. If we took Daves analogy to the extreme, and put a pin hole in a keg, we would shear the crap out of the beer, and it would decarbonate very quickly. Roger Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:45:38 -0400 (EDT) From: ALAN KEITH MEEKER <ameeker at welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Wordsmiths OH NO. Not ANOTHER dictionary thread!!! >BTW, Paul said it was a "personnel" matter, not a "personal" >matter. I suggest you haul out the Webster's, as the two are >entirely different things. Anyone know the Chech spellings of these?.... -Alan Meeker Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:17:41 -0500 From: Jeff Pursley <JPursley at Tulsa.E2M.net> Subject: My last word on Brian, Paul, and the AHA Right now we have only one national homebrewer's organization, the AHA. Someone might start another, but our hobby probably cannot support two national organizations right now. In one of Paul Gatza's recent comments on the Brian Rezac firing, he writes, in part: "I have received several e-mails from members who have decided not to renew their memberships over this issue.... But it is because I work for the members that I had to make a change to protect the interests of the members who entrust us with dues to promote the hobby of homebrewing and run programs for homebrewers." My comment to Paul: Leave it to us, the homebrewers, to "promote the hobby of homebrewing." If the AHA would focus on "running programs for homebrewers", I believe that we would all be better served. The HBD has seen many recent comments in Brian's defense. Most of the comments run along these lines: "He was always there when I called." "He always called me back." "Brian was always willing to talk beer and support homebrewing." etc., etc. This tells me that we valued Brian's service to us, the homebrewers. There have been many complaints about the AHA. Most of the comments run along these lines: "I can't get my club competition sanctioned in time to get good judges." "The AHA has screwed up scheduling for the style competitions." "The AHA takes my money and all I get is a magazine in decline." This tells me that we want services, not promotion. Hang out with some homebrewers. They will tell you all you want to know about brewing, and more. What can the AHA do to promote homebrewing that we cannot do? What the AHA could do that we cannot easily do is offer good programs, such as the Big Brew, properly scheduled competitions, support for the clubs, support for the judging program, etc., etc. To the AHA: Focus less on promotions, public relations, publishing, and speaking tours. Focus everything on one thing, programs for your members. Only then will you be a successful, valuable association. I'll give you another 6 months Jeff Pursley Tulsa, OK Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:30:30 -0500 From: Ian_Forbes at aici.com (Ian Forbes) Subject: The Great Budweiser Conspiracy I posted the following to the Brewery's "Brews and Views" yesterday, and since it is still making me chuckle, I thought I would post it here as well. Please note that I'm not attacking Bud, it just happened to be the beer that was being poured. >Here's a little story that some of you might find funny. I was sitting at a bar in a well-known restaurant chain last night for a couple of hours. The bartender is responsible for the bar patrons as well as the regular diners (i.e., if I'm sitting at a table and order a drink, my waitress comes to the bar to pick up the drink). Anyway, after about a half an hour, I noticed a bartender pouring a Bud for a gentleman who had just come up to the bar. When the mug was about half full, the tap started shooting foam; without skipping a beat, the bartender looked over his shoulder to see if the gentleman was watching (he wasn't) and slid the mug over to the Bud Lite tap and topped it off. The Bud tap had been "tapped" - it was shooting nothing but foam. So, I thinking to myself, "I wonder when they're gonna tap a new keg". Well, about 3 minutes go by when along comes another bartender to pour a Bud. Pulls the tap, and nothing happens. Again, without a second thought, he slides the mug under the Bud lite tap, and fills the mug. This scene is repeated until all the bartenders on duty realize that the Bud keg is tapped, and from that point on I guess people were only ordering Bud Lite cause that's all I saw poured. I guess nobody ordering these beers realized that they were getting Bud Lite instead of Bud; I didn't see a single one come back. So you be the judge; Bud and Bud Lite - same beer, different bottle. Enjoy! Ian Hamden, CT Kind of reminds me of that Simpson's episode where they have the Duff, Duff Lite and Duff Dry bottling lines all being supplied from the same tank. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:38:49 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Grits, John Smith bitter James Jerome <jkjerome at bellsouth.net> wrote: > 1) Does anyone have any ale recipes/experience using grits > as an adjunct? I added some to a batch that very luckily turned > out great, but I don't know why or how I was blessed. Definitely, I > need more expert advice. Jett, you've asked a question that has been discussed at great length over the past few years, and a search of the archives (http://www.hbd.org) for grits, maize, corn, CAP (Classic American Pilsner, my favorite), or CACA (Classic American Cream Ale) will bring lots of hits. Grits or flakes are also used in many English bitters. Grits need to be mashed, and as a partial grain brewer, this can present some problems. Basically, you need to boil the grits to make the starch available to the malt enzymes. As I just posted (hasn't appeared as I write this, though), standard commercial (and my) procedure is to mash the grits first with ~30% as much malt as grits, then boil for 20-40 minutes, then add to the main mash, or, in your case, to a mini-mash. Another 30% malt would be enough for enzymes, but you may want to use more for a good filter bed. You asked for info on >reproducing John Smith's (non-exported) most excellent > Extra Smooth Bitter from Tadcaster, Yorkshire >From the "Extra Smooth" in the name, I suspect that this is one of those "draught" beers with nitrogen widget. These beers have very low carbonation when poured. It's hard to know what this beer is like, but Yorkshhire bitters tend to have fairly high levels of diacetyl (buttery or butterscotch), which can be increased by yeast choice and by "dropping," which is racking the 24 hour old fermenting beer with some aeration. Here is dope from the the brewery as reported in _Real Ale Almanac_ on John Smith's (part of the giant Scottish Courage) two real bitters, which may or may not be similar to the pasteurized, packaged product: "John Smith's Cask Bitter OG 1036 ABV 3.8% Ingredients: pale ale malt (84%), black malt (1%), concentrated sugar (15%), small % of caramel for colour. 26 units of color [EBC], Target hop pellets. 32.5 units of bitterness." "John Smith's Magnet OG 1040 ABV 4.0% Ingredients: pale ale malt (84%), black malt (1%), concentrated sugar (15%), small % of caramel for colour. 37 units of color [EBC], Target hop pellets. 32.5 units of bitterness." Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:38:43 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Brewing English ales... delgado at communique.net (John Delgado) wrote: >I'm seeking advice for achieving the "English ale flavor" of my >favorite commercial English ales -- Spitfire, Bishop's Finger, >Fuller's ESB, Old Peculiar, Whitbread, etc. I'm talking about that >woody, minerally profile, along with the nice English hop flavor/aroma >(from Fuggles and Goldings?) Well, those first two are heavy with diacetyl (see my previous post). It can vary on tap in England, and I find that they can be overwhelmed by it in the bottle here (also variable). The Fuller's ESB and Whitbread have yeasts named after them that are commonly available, and the ESB (Wyeast 1968?) produces diacetyl. Sorry, I don't have time now to check _The Real Ale Almanac_ (5th ed., Roger Protz, Niel Wilson Publishing, available in US bookstores, I got mine at Borders), but it should have some further suggestions of ingredients. Yeast selection is all important. Good luck. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 07:54:19 -0700 From: Michael Rose <mrose at ucr.campuscw.net> Subject: Homebrew shops in Europe I'm trying to find some homebrew shops in Europe. (I'm looking for under modified malt) If your a homebrew shop overseas and speak English, please email me. Thanks, mike rose Riverside, Calif. USA mrose at ucr.campuscw.net Head Brewer, Dextrin Milkshake Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 09:48:15 -0500 From: Lou.Heavner at frco.com Subject: pressure drop & other xfer phenomena/organizations Greetings, There have been numerous discussions lately on flow in hoses, heat exchanger design, mash extraction rates, and such. I'm not going to chew up a lot of space with stuff that belongs in an engineering class, but I can offer a simplistic insight. Think of 2 main things. One is driving force which is the pressure difference or temperature difference or concentration difference which causes flow or heat transfer or diffusion. The bigger the driving force, the more enthusiastically the system will drive towards equilibrium. The other thing to consider is resistance(s). There are many sources of resistance and their relative contribution to the overall resistance can vary depending on the size and nature of the driving force and the geometry or other physical parameters of the system. Dave Burley got it right for flow: >>>The pressure drop per foot of a hose (through which a liquid is <flowing>, by the way) is the pressure differential at the ends divided by the hose length. If the fluid is not flowing in the hose, but the hose is filled and stopped at the exit with a valve, the pressure is the same at both ends and that is the head pressure. The diameter and the various restrictions in the hose control the <flow rate>. Using a longer hose will automatically slow the flow, such that the pin valve ( cobra head) controls a lower percentage of the flow and the pressure drop across this valve is lower and reduces the chance of " breakout." Thereby reducing the chance of foam. A longer hose, a smaller diameter hose, restricted or wound hose or a different kind of delivery valve ( large diameter when open and gate valve in design) should ameliorate the foam problem.<<< Although, if there are additional restrictions or resistances in the hose, like pinch points or "splices" of different hose materials, the pressure drop will not be exactly linear. The trick is to know which resistances are relatively large and important and which are relatively small and unimportant. In dispense, you want to balance the system so that you don't take a large pressure drop across the valve. In Wort chilling, you want to design the system to drop the temperature as quickly and often with as little water poured down the drain as possible. Anyway, the point is to examine your driving force(s) and try to make them larger or smaller based on your requirements. Then examine the resistances and try to reduce or eliminate them or at least the ones that are creating problems. Those of you knowledgeable in the area of transport phenomena may have more details to contribute. Those of you who are completely baffled, just ask me, or the forum in general as there are many who can and have built/bought systems which make and dispense good beer and who are willing to help you out. Good luck to anybody creating a new organization to compete with the AHA. Competition is a good thing and I wish you well! However, there are many aspects to creating and sustaining an organization whether it is for profit or non-profit. Don't shoot from the hip! Make a plan. Set short term goals and long term goals. Define measurements and plan for an acceptable exit in the event you are unsuccessful. Be sure you know what your "product" is. I don't know Charlie and don't belong to AHA, but I suspect he was at the right place at the right time and caught an excellent wave. Even though there is obvious disenchantment with AHA, it still exists and looks like competition to me. The "market" we are told is perhaps changing, but not really growing. There are also other things like BT and BYO and HBD not to mention a bazillion internet sites to suck time and money from those interested in homebrewing. I'm not trying to be negative. To the contrary, I any new homebrewing organization to be successful and thrive. I might even join it. Cheers! Lou - UNdoctor of the lagniappe brewery - something extra in every sip Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 11:35:26 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: pCooking/Maillard Worts, Pasteur efect Brewsters: Paul Campbell baked a mash in the oven at 150F and believes it contributed to the maltiness of his wort. I have done this oven routine ( covered mash kettle) many times to control the mash temperature in the days before I constructed an insulating container from 1" polystyrene foam. The insulated box is a better solution as there is no overheating or hot spots as Paul experienced Maillard reactions take place at 212F and above, which is the reason the two Charlies suggest using a pressure cooker to get there and experience the maltiness this process is famous for. Holding in the oven at 150F probably didn't do much unless the crust on top of the mash got to a higher temperature. BTW always be very careful to use wort ( not a mash) which has already been boiled before you put it into the pressure cooker and use an internal pan or bowl to contain it. This will help prevent the plugging of the steam vent by the proteinaceous foam ( AKA GD foam up) from the wort. Transfer the boiled wort carefully to prevent excessive air entrainment. Or only fill the pCooker about 1/3 full, boil first with the lid off until the foam subsides and then carefully place the lid on and cook as prescribed. Do not use hops in this procedure to avoid plugging of the vent. Plugging is a real thing and having had a spray of hot peas ( don't do this) cover the kitchen in my early days of pCooking, I can attest to the danger of improper use of a pCooker. - ---------------------------------------- Nathaniel Lansing comments on AJ Delange's comment that keeping a wort continually aerated will keep the yeast in a growth phase. And comments on the sound thrubbing ( at least so he felt) when he had suggested that aeration would cause yeast to exhibit the Pasteur effect and delay the beginning of apparent fermentation. Contributors apparently said brewing yeast cannot exhibit the Pasteur effect above 0.1% glucose. Right off the bat, AJ is correct, aeration and food does keep yeast in the growth phase as producers of baking yeast will attribute. Since they are interested in growing yeast and not brewing beer, their molasses and nitrogen containing growth media is constantly aerated. If they didn't at the high yeast populations they operate, oxygen dissolved in the media would last about 20 seconds! AJ also did an interesting experiment some time ago in which he demonstrated that in a pitched beginning wort, saturated with oxygen, the oxygen only lasted about 30 minutes. So what does this say about the need to saturate the wort with oxygen before pitching? Brewers, especially in Britain adhere to this policy by spraying their cooled wort through air. M&BS demonstrated that yeast recycled through unaerated worts eventually suffered a reduced ability to attenuate ( like five cycles if I recall correctly). What is the cause of this? Poor lipid content in the membranes and walls of yeast bodies suffering from the inability to produce the necessary lipids to build membranes due to the lack of oxygen which is a necessary part of the chemical process. This prevents them from being active in high or even normal alcohol contents. Solution? Stir the starter in the presence of air and pour off the starter beer to avoid the offtastes of the aldehydes and ketones and like oxygenated products before pitching. Aerate the wort. Now to the Pasteur effect. There is no relationship between the Pasteur effect and yeast growth as Nathaniel seems to have insinuated. The Pasteur effect is one in which an anaerobic glycolysis ( i.e. using carbohydrates in a normal anaerobic fermentation process which produces alcohol) were to become aerobic, the production of alcohol ceases as the higher energy yielded by the conversion totally to carbon dioxide is preferred. At concentrations exceeding 1% glucose, this switch over does not take place with brewing and baking yeasts and alcohol continues to be produced even in the presence of oxygen. This is known as the "contre-effet Pasteur" or the Crabtree effect. Most of the oft discussed delay at the beginning of the fermentation is due simply to the fact that carbon dioxide has yet to saturate the wort. Fermentation begins immediately when the yeast is pitched. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 1999 10:35:40 -0500 From: "Poirier, Bob" <Bob_Poirier at adc.com> Subject: Re: raspberry or woodruff syrup in a berliner weiss Greetings!! In HBD #3093, Tidmarsh Major wrote: <snip> >...Perhaps a shot of raspberry juice in a Bavarian weizen might also >be good, with the tartness of the raspberry juice >substituting for the tartness of the beer. <snip> While visiting ChicagoLand recently, I had the opportunity to visit O'Grady's Brewery & Pub (372 East Golf Road, Arlington Heights). I had several pints of their Raspberry Weizen, a Bavarian-style weizen with lots of raspberry aroma, but a subtle flavor contribution. The banana & clove flavors/aromas melded very nicely with the raspberry. Overall a very tasty brew, IMHO. Once I get a good weizen recipe down pat, I'm gonna try making a raspberry version! Just my $0.02... Bob P. East Haven, CT PS - Mickey Finn's (in Libertyville) Weizen KICKS ASS!! Return to table of contents
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