HOMEBREW Digest #3111 Mon 16 August 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Is it Malty, or is it Oxydized? AND Fault Line Brew Pub (Jeremy Bergsman)
  Dry Yeast... ("Rob Moline")
  Re: Pumps ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re Pumping - I did - now I don't (RobertJ)
  The Zone Beer Diet (Martin A. Gulaian)
  Making beer / wasting water (Kevin or Darla Elsken)
  DWI (Dave Burley)
  Wringing Water/ol' Bottlecaps (Nancy George)
  Overnight acid rests? (Teutonic Brewer)
  Colorful sugar Test, Zone Diet, (Dave Burley)
  Great immersion chiller improvement idea ("Frederick L. Pauly")
  Water Re-cycling (Steve Lacey)
  Re: Scotch Ales (Rod Prather)
  Brave New Brewery - question  #1 ("Stephen Alexander")
  Cylindro conical fermenters ("Richard Hooper")
  1/4 keg for kettle? (darrell.leavitt)
  Steve's On To Something ("Phil and Jill Yates")
  Making yeast starters in microwave ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Sight Glass for Gott ("Mark Vernon")
  A question or two for the "long-time" brewers (larry land)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:55:56 -0700 From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb at leland.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Re: Is it Malty, or is it Oxydized? AND Fault Line Brew Pub "Alan McKay" <amckay at nortelnetworks.com> impugns various peninsula brewpubs. Here's what I know: Gordon Biersch started in Palo Alto and now has brewpubs in San Jose, San Francisco, and others farther away (Hawaii, Pasadena?). They also have a ~2 year old large micro in San Jose which I believe supplies all their tap accounts and certainly all their bottling. I used to find them first rate for German styles, but less so these days: the micro beers are blander and the PA brewpub has trouble with diacetyl and according to a very recent report from a friend, 2,3 pentanedione. You most likely had the dunkel based on your description. Faultline is IMO the best brewpub on the peninsula although I am certainly not friends with the brewer (and am friends with another brewer--hope he doesn't read this! His is the second best! Really!). I like them because they usually have a large variety (>7); their hefeweizen uses the real yeast, it's not just a cloudy wheat beer; they almost always have a credible Belgian style attempt; and they cycle their way through most beer styles (like most places they have a few regular beers and a few that change). Sometimes they miss the mark style-wise but usually they are pretty good. I have only ever had one beer with a significant technical problem there and that was when the place was just getting going. I have had their Alt once about 9 months ago IIRC and I thought it was excellent--malty, very bitter, and a very nice, fairly strong hop flavor much like my FWH alt (OK, Al, there's your queue). Faultline also has a place in Walnut Creek. As for your flavor problems, I can't imagine you got an oxidized beer from either place unless the GB was in a bottle. I would also guess that your beer that sat in the fermenter for 8 months would suffer more from autolysis than oxidation unless you had a lot of HSA or the airlock dried out, although who knows? Try an old imported dunkel to see how these taste oxidized. Both of these commercial beers are supposed to be farily malty with a Munich malt character. What kind of beer sat in your fermenter for 8 months? - -- Jeremy Bergsman jeremybb at leland.stanford.edu http://www.stanford.edu/~jeremybb Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 02:41:37 -0500 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at isunet.net> Subject: Dry Yeast... Dry Yeast Dave Lamotte, the Newcastle Brewer, asks about yeast....and his questions are being reviewed by greater minds than mine, though Roger Ayotte offers what sounds like sage advice on the subject. I'll let you know if I hear differently, though suspect that what I might hear will be building on Roger's assertions. Yeast, like momilies, can't live forever... >From: AKGOURMET at aol.com >Did I hear(read) Rob say that its preferable to store dry yeast frozen? >Freezing won't kill it? I assume it's not a good idea to put frozen yeast >into 105f. water to rehydrate. Any idea what an acceptable warming rate is? As a matter of fact, a gentleman by the name of Admiral Byrd took some Fleischman's yeast with him on his Antarctic journeys. It seems like folks on every continent do live by bread, though perhaps, not bread alone. Some ....(drum roll please)......50 years later...a camp of his was 'discovered', and certain articles and properties were recovered..... Dr. George Clayton Cone, who had for decades worked for Fleischman's....successfully revived, and utilized yeast from that 50 year 'lag-time.' Yes, freeze it, if you wish. What I read into your post is the question of 'thermal shock,' as it usually relates to dropping the temp on an active ferment. This relates to dropping the temp on a lager ferment in stages, since any drop of temp on an ale ferment is usually a 'crash' drop to spur flocc, or to arrest attenuation..... or a 'maintenance-control' incremental correction to counteract heat generated by fermentation. By all means, rehydrate at 105 ..you will be perfectly in the desired range for rehydration. Attemperation, post rehydration, is the first step of acclimation of the newly rehydrated yeast to both temp, and sugar content of wort. And step dropping lagers to acclimate them to reduced temps is another method of negating 'temp-shock.' Post re-hydration is where one should be conscious of the 'shock.' But it has no bearing on the fact that dry yeast is quite hardy, whilst dry, and stored properly. The Admiral's yeast is definitive on this question...no? Agian, if I hear differently on this topic, I shall report on my learning curve. Cheers! Rob Moline Lallemand jethro at isunet.net brewer at isunet.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 09:42:26 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Pumps Kirk writes ... >...but I certainly wouldn't expect turbulent flow using a peristaltic pump, You should. Turbulent flow in a tube is a Reynolds Number RN >2200 where RN = rho * vbar * Diam / nu For 20P maltose solution at 20C, 1/4"ID, 1gal/min the RN is about 5500. The RN will be even higher at higher temps (lower viscosity). The RN will be proportional to the flow rate. For a given flow rate, increasing the tubing diameter causes a proportional decrease in RN. Unless you are willing to live with less than about 0.4 gal/min at 1/4"ID, or find a peristaltic pump to handle >1/2" ID tubing, you will have turbulent flow. >It certainly LOOKS laminar based on visual >observation of small particles at or near the tubing wall (5/8" ID). Critical flow for 5/8" ID is in the neighborhood of 1.3gal/min very roughly, but of course most peristaltic pumps cannot handle such diameter tubing. Perhaps more interesting is that Kunze points to beta-glucans deformation, and resulting difficult lautering as a result of shear forces ! Any of you RIMSers see this ? -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 09:53:05 -0400 From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com> Subject: Re Pumping - I did - now I don't From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> A few years ago I decided that pumping wort/beer around my "brewery" (laundry room) would be efficient and easier than siphoning. So I picked up a little magnetic drive hot liquid pump from McMaster, and medical grade quick disconnects and lots of tubing. I used it to pump hot wort from the kettle through the CFC and into the carboy. I used it to pump green beer from the primary to the secondary. And, I used it to pump from the secondary into the keg. I used it on about 10 or 12 5 gallon batches. I experienced a number of problems and annoyances. First, the little pump was not self-priming. It had to be filled with liquid before it would pump. Second, the pump cavitated like crazy, particularly with green beer with CO2 in solution. The CO2 comes out of solution and causes all sorts of gurgling and serious cavitation, Third, it was more stuff to sanitize and clean, more tubing, more hardware, it was just more stuff to deal with, more stuff to worry about. Finally I realized that the pump wasn't making anything easier, in fact it was making brewer harder. I would agree with your conclusion and would not use it as yuou did, but I think you were using the pump for the wrong applications. A mag drive pump has a place in brewing beer. Usually to move hot wort or water prior to the boil where you will not experience any of the above problems if your breweery is set-up correctly. Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://www.pbsbeer.com Manufacturer of 3 Vessel Brew Systems, HERMS, SS Brew Kettles, SS hopback and the MAXIchiller Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 10:22:13 -0400 (EDT) From: mag6 at po.CWRU.Edu (Martin A. Gulaian) Subject: The Zone Beer Diet Brian Dixon says: [zone diet snip] > >In any case, the beer drinkers in the crowd might want to know that the beer >belly effect can be reduced! For reasons of hormone control, specifically >the glucagon/insulin axis, Dr. Sears recommends eating and snacking with >particular ratios of the macronutrients (protein, carbohydrate, fat). It >works. The ratio is for each 7 grams of protein, eat 9 grams of >carbohydrate and 1.5 to 3 grams of fat. In calories, each meal and snack >should be 30% protein, 40% carbohydrate, and 30% fat. Any higher in the >carbs and you increase your insulin response, which in turn reduces blood >sugar by moving sugars into fat store and locks up fat store so that you >can't utilize it. Since maltose has a glycemic index even higher than pure >sucrose, beer is an especially effective way to mess up your insulin >response and to gain (and keep) fat ... hence the beer belly. I'm 43 lbs >(out of 58 that I needed to lose) into proving that Dr. Sears is right. If >you are interested, check out http://www.zoneperfect.com. > Of course there's no maltose to speak of in beer once you ferment it. The calories are mostly from alcohol and it takes a long liver torturing route for it ever to show up as blood glucose... - --- My diet is probably something like 10% protein, 10% fat, 80% carbohydrates (I live on meals like a big plate of pasta and veggies and a big glass of skim milk... or beer) and a quick pinch test on my "beer belly" measures 3.5mm this morning. Your sense of how much of a fraud Dr Sears is may vary, but mine is pretty high. - -- Marty Gulaian - Cleveland, Ohio Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 10:29:33 -0400 From: Kevin or Darla Elsken <kelsken at adelphia.net> Subject: Making beer / wasting water In HBD #3110, Jim Clayton makes several suggestions for using waste water from brewing for other uses... While I don't consider myself a tree hugging environmentalist, I have always been a bit dismayed at the amount of water that one can 'waste' in brewing beer. I try to reduce this waste by recycling sanitizing solution. I keep my carboys (6.5 gal, 5 gal, 3 gal) filled with a bleach sanitizing solution. On brew day, I transfer the contents of the large carboy to my plastic fermenting bucket. Based on the age of the sanitizer, and / or the smell from the sanitizing solution, I add additional bleach. I then use this water to sanitize spoons, airlocks, racking canes, etc. that will be used during the brew day. When the brew is ready for the primary I transfer the sanitizing solution back to the carboy. This also gives a good flush to the racking cane and hose. When the brew is ready for the secondary, I transfer the sanitizer to my 33 qt enamelware pot, then move the brew to the carboy. I usually put the sanitizer back into the plastic fermenter while the beer is in the secondary. This water can then be used to sanitize the bottling bucket. And it finally ends up back in the carboy. All in all, it is a lot of transferring, but to me it is worth it... Which brings me to questions #1 : If the sanitizing solution (bleach in water) is stored in the carboy under an airlock, how long will it remain a sanitizing solution? I imagine that chlorine cannot evaporate, but after 2 or 3 months it does not smell as strong as it does when I first put it away. So I usually add more bleach to be sure. The other portion of the brewing process that wastes excessive water is the wort cooling with an immersion chiller. I know that one can add a pump to recirculate the cooling water, but I would be curious to hear from anyone about how they setup up their system. In particular, in the initial cooling the water picks up tremendous heat from the wort. How do you effectively cool the water? I know ice can be used, but I would imagine that it would take alot of ice. Thanks for any info. Kevin Elsken Little Boy Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 10:49:00 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: DWI Brewsters: One night a police officer was staking out a particularly rowdy bar, for possible violations of the driving-under-the-influence laws. At closing time, he saw a guy stumble out of the bar, trip on the curb And try his keys on five different cars before he found his. Then he sat in the front seat fumbling around with his keys for several minutes. The man was so drunk that everyone else left the bar and drove off before he had even put the keys in the ignition. Finally, he started his engine and began to pull away. Chuckling at the pathetic driver, the police officer stopped him, read him his rights and administered the Breathalyzer test. The results showed a reading of 0.0. The puzzled officer demanded to know how this could be. The driver replied, "Tonight I'm the designated decoy " Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 11:28:01 -0400 From: Nancy George <homsweet at voicenet.com> Subject: Wringing Water/ol' Bottlecaps Jim asks for ways to get every last possible drop of water used in a responsible manner. We've used the 'attach the outline of the chiller to the soaker hose in the garden' method for a while. Just put extension hose and connectors where needed. This way the garden gets a good watering at least once a week.... On Chuck's finding old bottlecaps, cork & foil lined. Cork deteriorates over the years and hasn't been used for cap linings in quite some time. Sanitizing them would probably cause the cork to fall apart. They have much more value as breweriana. Nancy As for brewing in the rain-Friday night would have been pretty good... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 13:10:21 -0600 From: Teutonic Brewer <claassen at swcp.com> Subject: Overnight acid rests? Hi All, In the aftermath of my posting my sour mashing techniques, Stephen Alexander noted in HBD #3101: >As long as everyone is breaking out those dictionaries - note the difference >between a (bacterial) acid rest and a sourmash. I've always made a concentrated sour mash. OTOH, has anyone out there doughed in at ground water temperature or at the traditional "acid rest" temperature around 38C and allowed the mash to sit overnight or until the pH drops? I reckon that the bacteria would chew on the limited amount of sugars in the malt and slowly acidify the mash. Any experience would be appreciated. Maybe there's an experiment begging to be performed here.... TIA! Prost! Paul Claassen (Teutonic Brewer) Albuquerque, Chile Republic of New Mexico Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 15:16:45 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Colorful sugar Test, Zone Diet, Brewsters: Matt Comstock and I saw the same article in C&ENews regarding a sugar complexing agent which formed different colors with many of the simple sugars and asks if Clinitest is responsive to these sugars differently. Clinitest is responsive to reducing sugars, but an exact quantitative relationship is unknown by me and others who have indicated they were interested in pursuing the data further ( where are those results, LouB?). I have come across a reference in an old Organic Chemistry text that says the results are not stoichiometric but are reproducible, as the only such reference. The Clinitest reaction is a complex reaction forming copper oxides and the like. The color is time dependent, so obviously there are a number of factors entering into the use of Clinitest, but it can be done reproducibily. It cannot distinguish between various kinds of sugars, although it is responsive to lactose which is not fermentable and non-responsive to sucrose which is fermentable in a brewing environment containing invertase. This is why I suggest it be used at the end if the fermentation, so the sucrose will be gone and before any lactose is added. The test reads "% glucose", but it is not responding to glucose at the end of a fermentation, obviously just the reducing sugars which are likely higher in MW and less readily fermented. - ------------------------------------- Brian Dixon has lost 43 pounds and is pleased with the Zone Diet. He goes on to explain how one can drink beer occasionally and not endure a change in the slope of weight loss. Only problem with Brian's dissertation is that these is no maltose in beer, even though he bases his whole discussion on the assumption that there is. Carbohydrates in the form of dextrins, yes - maltose no - the yeast got to the maltose first! I too have personal knowledge of a diet based on limiting carbohydrate intake relative to fats and proteins and can also attest that the diet does work well and rather painlessly. Just count the carbos in the beer and you can enjoy beer and sausages as does Brian or just count your one or two beers a day as part of your carbo intake. Eat spaghetti squash with spaghetti sauce or whatever has low carbohydrates like various cole products instead of potatoes. Since my beers have a higher OG than commercial beers and I often have a lot of dextrins, based on the FG, I typically double the estimated value of carbos. My nephew lost 70 pounds on the "Protein Power" diet (similar to the Zone) and was promoted to VP. Co-incidence? Books on this diet and one on food content are available in your bookstore and necessary. If you are worried about "ketosis" as anatgonists would have you believe is a problem ( it's not a problem for healthy people) buy a pack of "ketostix" from your pharmacy and check it. You will remain in the "zero to trace" amount normal for humans if you are healthy. You might be surprised to know that too much catsup is one of the no-nos ( high sugar content), but mustard and unsweetened salsa and other tomato sauces are fine. Knock off that sugar in your coffee for the carbos not the calories. Some people respond to articifial sweeteners as though they were sugars (I did). If you do, do not include these in your diet. Good Luck! Drink more beer worry less about the wasteline consequences after you lose a few inches. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 17:50:40 -0400 From: "Frederick L. Pauly" <flp2m at unix.mail.virginia.edu> Subject: Great immersion chiller improvement idea I use an immersion chiller to cool my brews. It is a two part system with a coil sitting in ice water to pre-chill the water going to the kettle coil. But wha I have found out is that the liquid around both coils needs to be stirred for the most effective cooling. So my idea for you creative builders out there is a water driven impeler to stir both the ice bath and the kettle. Just before the water gets to the first coil you have a 't' that shoots some water through a water powered stirring device and then comes back to the source and enters the main pipe. And do the same thing for a water powered stirring device in the kettle. Pretty chilling, don't you think? So go ahead and take my idea for free and then just e-mail me the working plans or post them on the digest. Waiting patiently in Charlottesville,Va Rick Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 09:04:36 +1000 From: Steve Lacey <stevel at sf.nsw.gov.au> Subject: Water Re-cycling Jim Clayton wrote: "Take a minute to think about all the water consumed/wasted in the brewery. Cooling water could be hosed into the washing machine for the load that's always waiting... How about some creative recycling of our waste water? " I was think along similar lines so I captured the fist 40 L or so of hot water from the immersion chiller, dumped it in the bathtub and then threw in the three kids. Add soap, shampoo and a few firm paternal directives and you have clean kids as well as cool wort! probably saved 20c in heating and 1E-09% of Sydneys daily water consumption, but hey, isn't that what recycling is all about? Steve L Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 14 Aug 1999 23:17:47 -0500 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: Re: Scotch Ales Keith MacNeal Wrote: > Williams Brewing also stocks peated malt as well as Scotch malt, a slighty > darker version of pale malt that is supposed to be similar to what is used > to > produce scotch ales. I've used them both in some scotch ales (I even put > the smoked malt into some porter) and have been happy with the results. > Just retreading some old ground. I love the Scotch ale styles and the use of peat smoked barley in ales, I am quite fond of Tucker Smoked Porter, brewed in Southern Indiana. For years I thought peat smoked barley was common in Scotch ale brewing. After some research that involved writing to a brewing historian in Scotland I learned that it is not. There were a few produced in the 1960's but they are generally considered an anomaly and smoked peat is not considered indicative of the Scotch ale (beer) brewing style. The Scots brewed beer in the lowlands where coal was used as fuel and peat is not available. Whiskey was historically made in the Highlands where Peat is the more common fuel due to the absence of coal. Much of this division is probably due to a long history of prohibition against distilling in Scotland when much whiskey was distilled illegally. Since brewers and distillers malted and kilned their own malt they kept their malts as a secret of their brewing process. There was really no peat smoked malt traded to the lowland areas of the country. Since it wasn't available, it was never used in the brewing of ale. Also, you might want to check out some of the Scottish hop alternatives for your brew. Since hops are not indiginous to Scotland, Broom Heather flowers and Sweet Gale (myrica), Rowan and Spruce were the herbs used in historic Scotch ales. Broom heather is commonly used as an ornamental in the US and has a yellow flower. 8 to 10 lbs of the flowers are used in brewing. Spruce has a limited brewing period as the young shoots must be used and are only available in the spring. The young shoots are sweet and bitter with smaller amounts of the less desirable oils and strong flavors. Pinesol anyone? Sweet Gale is usually incorporated into heather ales. I am not familiar with Rowan or where to obtain it. I do know that is was used in Scotch ales prior to the importation of hops to Scotland. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 03:30:07 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Brave New Brewery - question #1 I've had an all too brief offline discussion with Phil Yates about science, tradition, craft and art in brewing. The art vs science threads on HBD appear too sterile. All are dependent on the embedded meaning of terms with huge emotion emotional baggage in tow. I think separating the emotional content of the process and it's tradition from the issue of the resulting product makes an interesting topic. - -- Consider a hypothetical situation: It's the year 2005 and through the efforts of brewing scientists and industry it's become possible to make beer from a mixture of several extract compounds, ethanol etc. The basic compounds involved are extracted and refined from natural malt, hops, brewing yeast - so this may be considered an advanced form of malt extract+hops extract brewing, however the natural products are refined into several categories of flavor and color and body compounds that give the 'brewer' great control. The resulting Super Extract beer (SE-beer) is completely comparable to normally made beers in terms of flavor, aroma, body, color and all other qualities. The SE-beers can be varied by the mix of ingredients to match all common styles. Not only have some prestigious 'brewing' awards been won by SE-beers, but carefully crafted SE-beers duplicating classic natural beers are sometimes good enough to fool experts in blind tastings. The major mega-breweries immediately adopt the method. Well respected 21st century beer writer, Jikel Maxxon and pseudonymous HB guru Nurse Pivo both claim that SE-beers are and will remain inferior and that they lack some subtle flavor only found in 'natural' beer, but in controlled taste experiments experts usually fail to identify the SE-beer. 'Homebrewing' an SE-beer takes about 1 hour and the control of some parameters such as level of alcohol and potential for oxidation or infection is much easier. Choosing the flavor, color aroma and body and finding the right mix to produce it remains an art. Q: Would YOU 'homebrew' SE-beers ? If not, then what distinction are you making between this and other brewing advances of the last century or two - things like thermometers, water chemistry, pure culture yeast, temp controlled maltings, gibberellic acid for malting, mash pH control with meters and acid addition, alpha-acid measurements, RIMS, pumps, mixers and stirrers, iodine tests, PVPP, hydrometers, ... ? Aren't they just incremental steps toward the same end of consistency, quality, control and ease ? If so, then is this new method of beer making really 'brewing' or are you just mixing flavors from a palatte ? Do you fear losing 'something' by changing to the new method ? I'll reserve some follow-up hypotheticals till later - assuming the topic gathers some interest. - --- The question arose a several years back when I was studying mash enzymes and it became clear that I could, use commercially available enzymes to mash raw grain or any starch without malt. It's not even very difficult. Later I realized that several operations could be applied to phenolic compounds - probably with a haze and flavor effect. These processes *feel* more like chemistry than brewing, but is there really a significant difference that should inhibit us ? Should we be restricted by some new Reinheitsgebotlich rules ? -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 10:51:27 +0200 From: "Richard Hooper" <richard at dundee.lia.net> Subject: Cylindro conical fermenters Hi all I have finally commisioned my 240 litre cylindro conical fermenter [jacketed, glycol cooled, 60 degree cone] and the first brew is chugging along at +- 14 degrees. The debut brew was made with 30kg of SA Maltsters pale grain, on my RIMS, crushed at about a 2mm gap on the malt mill. I normally use 1.7mm for a smaller brew [20kg malt], but experienced a persistent set mash with this crush when I tried a parti-gyle brew a while back, using 40kg malt. The result was a decrease in the expected extract to an OG of 1.030. I then augmented the gravity with [gasp] 5 litres of Hymalt glucose syrup [maize based], to make a beer with a typical [I assume] South African Breweries style malt bill, OG in the region of 1.040 [forgot to measure it]. I have made beer using this stuff before, it gives a bit of a sweetish corn flavour at first, tending towards dryness, citrusy, later in the life of the beer [unfiltered, in keg]. 400gm of Saaz pellets went into the kettle, all FWH. The wort was force cooled to 18 degrees C then transferred with buckets [waiting for my high temp. pump from Moving Brews] to the fermenter. The day before, I made a "mini mash" of 15 litres of 1.020 wort in which was pitched 50gm of re-hydrated Nottingham yeast. This was at high krauesen by the time it was mixed in to the first 2 x 25 litre buckets of new wort. I see the gravity is now at 1.012, but the yeast is still very active. I expect it to go down 1.008 or less. My questions relate to yeast removal/cropping. At what point during the fermentation [chronologically or attenuation-wise] should [could] one remove the first batch of "dirty" [trubby ?] yeast ? I recall reading a Pierre Rajotte brochure which mentioned that the yeast would have the consistency of peanut butter. I have not found that to be the case after 4 days, but today [six days] it appears to be a bit thicker. When is the yeast OK for saving for the next brew ? Does one go purely y appearance [white-ish, clean looking] ? How do I keep cats out of the brew, Phil ? How do you expect the foetus to gestate, Loretta, in a box ? What is the meaning of life ? How many yeast cells can dance on the head of a pin ? Questions, questions, questions for the concerned young person. I think I'll have a home-brew now. Regards King Pivo " 'Ow do you know 'e's a king ?" " 'E 'asn't got sh*t all over him." Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 06:00:04 -0500 (EST) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: 1/4 keg for kettle? I was given a 1/4 keg....and wonder: couldn't I cut the top off, and use it as a kettle? It must be 7 gal....so couldn't one do a full 5 gal boil with this? ..Darrell <Terminally INtermediate Home-brewer> Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 21:03:44 +1000 From: "Phil and Jill Yates" <yates at flexgate.infoflex.com.au> Subject: Steve's On To Something Okay Steve, Good question, very good question. But I think you might have jumped a little sideways from the discussion we had. Those who find scientific discussions on brewing a complete and utter bore are generally not the same folk who fear that advancing science is taking from them something they treasure. What you have proposed for 2005 is a kit beer that produces the same or better result than a mash. Just a bit of mix and match required and this is now considered to be the "art" of brewing. This situation may eventually be achieved (though I doubt it - in this sense I am a traditionalist) but this is not the science that you represent. Are you thinking you would prefer to kit brew if they could just get the quality of a mash in the can? I know there are a lot of brewers who would be over the moon about such an advancement. But these are the same folk who probably think Steve Alexander is obsessed with making things more complicated than they need be. Well until that lunatic Eric Panther burst on to the scene. To answer you on question #1 I doubt if I would be much interested in SE brewing. Too much like making a cup of tea. The distinction I would make is that all the scientific / art input would no longer be valid for wasting six or so hours on brew day. Hell, I would be expected to mow the lawn and wash the cars instead! I can't say I ever saw kit brewing as real brewing, but I can certainly say I understand why it suits so many brewers. We don't all have the time to fart around mashing. But of all the brewers that I would consider disinterested in SE brewing, Steve Alexander would be at the top of the list. Well just behind Doc Panther. Perhaps Steve you will surprise me and announce yourself as a latent kit brewer, just dying to put all those science journals in the bin. I doubt it. In any case, the very next brewer to depart the scene behind you would be myself! Cheers Phil Yates Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 11:30:48 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: Making yeast starters in microwave Just finished a web page that details an easy method for making yeast starters in the microwave without making a mess from boilovers. It uses HopTech's Foam Control (std. disclaimer- and then some more on the web page...). Although I've just started a sanitation test, past starters show no evidence of any sanitation problems. It's at the "Microwave Starter Prep. Method" link at the URL in the sig. line below or via http://hbd.org/cdp/ c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 11:42:58 -0500 From: "Mark Vernon" <mark at pleasantstreet.com> Subject: Sight Glass for Gott Okay, I am on my way to putting together my rims system (thanks to everyone who sent me info/links). I found my 2 10gal Gott coolers ant Home Depot (thanks to everyone who responded with resources for those) on sale even for $29.95 at . I want to install sight glasses in each (Mash Tun and HLT). I know someone out there has done this, and can save me from reinventing the wheel. Your help as always is greatly apprecitated. Mark Vernon MCSE,MCP+I, MCT mark at pleasantstreet.com www.pleasantstreet.com Beer is proof that god loves mankind... Ben Franklin Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 12:07:09 -0500 From: larry land <lland at startext.net> Subject: A question or two for the "long-time" brewers [kindly note the abscense of the description "OLD"!] Can anyone tell me what happened to an Author and homebrew prommoter Leigh Beaddle? (may spell Beadle) He wrote some books around late 60's on homebrewing; seemed to be popular authority, now semms to have vanished. Also, is Blue Ribbon Malt Extract (in cans) still available? Thanks. lland at startext.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 1999 12:53:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com> Subject: WET T-SHIRT CONTEST IN MY BASEMENT First contestant is a full-bodied Belgian. She's wearing an old t-shirt of mine. I'm soaking her down, and I've got a fan blowing on high just to keep things interesting. Wyeast #1214. OG=1.082. Pitched 3 qt starter, into cool, <70 F wort. Volcanic eruption ensued. Started slowly, but now I've got spooge all over the basement floor. The temp has got to be at least 80 F. Hot, baby, hot. I've searched the archives a little for #1214. AlK recommended large starters. Others recommended cooler temperatures. Am I destined for bubble-gum beer as I've read about? Next time I will start the wet t-shirt contest a little earlier to try to avoid the higher temps during fermentation. So there is a trade-off between big starters and rapid heat-evolving fermentations. What's best. Probably to have a big starter AND good heat control. And more wet t-shirts. Matt Comstock in Cincinnati. _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
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