---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Brewers Yeast (dw)
  Re:  DG Yuengling Co. of Pottsville, PA (Bruce Buck - Sun ECD Hardware)
  Brewer's Yeast (Mike Fertsch)
  Yuengling's Chesterfield Porter (Chris Shenton)
  Re: List of brewpubs (Chris Shenton)
  Sad news from Texas? (Wayne Allen)
  Brewers Yeast (was: Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout) (John Polstra)
  Looking for a certain taste and texture (boubez)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #313 (November 30, 1989) (John Streich)
  Crystal ("2645 RUTH, GUY R.")
  Re: Lauter-Tun advice (John Polstra)
  Yeast Ramblings (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Lauter Tun (Martin A. Lodahl)
  BrewPubs (Norm Hardy)
  ginger beer (Bill Crick)
  Re: "Short" Fermentation? (Dr. T. Andrews)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 30 Nov 89 09:02:17 EST (Thursday)
From: dw <Wegeng.Henr at Xerox.COM>
Subject: Brewers Yeast

>I was reading a Vegitarian Mag the other day, an article touting 
>the wonderful benefits of Brewers yeast in your diet. The 
>article mentioned a brewers yeast available at health food stores
>which is cultured without the characteristic malts and grains and
>thus tastes "Good".
>My question is..... Will this work to build a better brew?
>Having no so called characteristic to style, what flavor or 
>style if you will, would this yeast impart to a beer?

The brewers yeast that people use as a dietary supplement is usually dead,
so you can't use it to make beer with. It comes in both tablet and powdered
form, and is usually processed yeast sludge from a brewery (yep - it's the
same as the stuff that settles to the bottom of your primary fermenter).
The brewers yeast that the vegetarian magazine refered to is cultured
specifically for use as a dietary supplement, rather than to brew beer,
using something other than malted barley as the source of food for the
yeast.
 
/Don

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 09:59:02 EST
From: bbuck at East.Sun.COM (Bruce Buck - Sun ECD Hardware)
Subject: Re:  DG Yuengling Co. of Pottsville, PA

Rick Ward writes:

P.S. I feel sorry for you non-Pennsylvanians out there that can't get
     Yuengling's Chesterfield Porter($10/case).


It thought it was Lord Chesterfield Ale.  The Porter was simply called 
Yuengling Porter.  Both of which are available in New England (albeit not
widely).

Also, do they still put the porter out in those upscale green bottles?  I 
kind of liked the short stubby brown ones.  Also, how come Pennsylvania makes
you buy by the case only?

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 09:00 EST
From: Mike Fertsch <FERTSCH at adc1.adc.ray.com>
Subject: Brewer's Yeast

Jim Broglio (microsoft!jamesb at uunet.uu.net) asks about yeasts:

> With all the different varieties of yeast available, German, British, etc
> how do I know where to start and what will go best with whatever?? 

For style lagers, use lager yeast.  I prefer Wyeast liquid yeasts.  Their 
pilsener (#2007) ferments dry and is good for pilsener style beers.  Wyeast 
bavarian (#2208??) in non-attenutative - it is good for sweeter styles like 
Oktoberfests and bock beers.  I know of no real good dry lager yeast, 
although I have used Whitbread LAGER yeast with good success. 

For ales, use ale yeast.  Again, my favorite is Wyeast.  Their American ale 
(#1056) is Sierra Nevada.  Need I say more?  I've had bad luck with Red 
Star, but Edme has worked for me.

> I was reading a Vegitarian Mag the other day, an article touting the
> wonderful benefits of Brewers yeast in your diet. The article mentioned a
> brewers yeast available at health food stores which is cultured without the
> characteristic malts and grains and thus tastes "Good". I think that I will
> have to track some of this down and do a side by side comparison brew. 

I read somewhere that "Brewer's Yeast", available from health food stores 
is DEAD.  It is apparently killed when drying it.  Even dead, it has lots 
of vitamins and minerals.  Good luck fermenting!

The recent special issue of Zymurgy is all about Yeast.  There is lots of 
good information in it.

Mike Fertsch

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 10:22:18 est
From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Yuengling's Chesterfield Porter

Rick Ward writes:
> P.S. I feel sorry for you non-Pennsylvanians out there that can't get
>      Yuengling's Chesterfield Porter($10/case).

Yeah, excellent, porter. (Yuengling claims to be Amerika's oldest brewery).

Too bad it rose from $7/case (here in DC) in dumpy bottles to $12/case (in
DC) in the new yuppy bottles (longer necks with foil).

I used to drink prodigious quantities of this fine beer but have cut back
severely because of the 71% price hike; I really object to this marketing
ploy, and doubt seriously that the beer inside costs more to make.

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 11:09:17 est
From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: List of brewpubs

Walt Thode writes:
> If you have corrections or additions, send them directly to me at
> thode at nprdc.navy.mil, since I am going to be forced to stop subscribing
> to the homebrew digest.

Thanks much! looks like it must have been quite a lot of work; I appreciate
the effort. A couple of things:

> Maryland -- Baltimore:
>   Sisson's Restaurant - "on East Cross Street, a few blocks from the Inner
>     Harbor, has become the first brewpub in Maryland.  Sisson's is serving 
>     golden and amberales, along with its existing list of about 60 specialty 
>     beers and a menu that features Cajun and Creole dishes and fresh
>     seafood."

I visited there Nov 89 after reading this posting. I was *not* impressed by
the beer -- certainly not enough to drive the 40 minutes it took to get
there. The beer was ``wimpy'', lacking in any substantial body, and not
real tasty. Their porter was the best of the three they had, the others
being a pilsner (I think), and an amber ale. At least it had some taste,
but again, a Bud had more body. Almost no hop or malt aromas either (per
style). I hope they eventually get their act together and do a reasonable
beer with guts and spirit.

> Maryland -- Glen Burnie:
>   The British Brewing Co. - 6759 Baymeadow Dr.

Until ~Nov 89, only sold to a chain of bars, now available in bottles, at
least in Annapolis, MD; name is Oxford Class. English style ale, low
carbonation, nice amber color. Precious little malt/hop aroma. I didn't
find it had a lot of taste, and not much body. While drinking it, I kept
thinking of tap water.  I describe it as ``wimpy'', but a friend of mine
enjoys it quite a bit (he says there's lots-o-hops). The brewer is from
England, and he keeps increasing the amount of carbonation from what it
typical in England to what can keep Americans pacified. He also seems to be
tweaking the recipe in each batch, as subsequent tastings have been
different.  I'd recommend drinking this beer at cellar temperature,
although the label suggests drinking it cold (Americanism?).


> Virginia -- Virginia Beach:
>   Chesapeake Bay Brewing Co. -

That company went under, and re-formed under the name Virginia Brewing
Company. It's brewmeister, Wolfgang Roth, was educated in German beer
institutes and produces a *fantastic* pair of brews -- Gold Cup Pilsner and
Virginia Native Dopplebock. The pilsner is about as from from Urquell as
you can imagine -- nice sharp hop bite, lots of body; a well balanced but
but by no means delicate brew. Virginia Native is a heavy thirst-quenching
brew with (again) lots of body, and a screaming hop bite and aroma. One of
the `wettest' beers I have ever tasted. Both -- until ~August 89 -- were
only available at a certain chain of DC area bars; Gold Cup is now
available in bottles (around DC at least). I also got a keg of Gold Cup
(wonderful, but pricey), and I hear I can get Virginia Native in kegs too.
I've also heard that a modified Native will be available in bottles as a
Christmastime beer -- name unknown. This stuff has guts and spirit like the
Grants beers I had in Seattle, but is much better balanced, and has higher
consistency, batch-to-batch.


District of Columbia -- Old Heurick Brewing Company
  Headquarters in DC, but currently contract brewed somewhere in PA I think
    Gary Heurick is a 3rd generation  brewer. His grandfather had  a brewery in
    DC at the site of the current Kennedy Center megalith (what a  waste!). Not
    surprisingly, the operation went under some time  after Prohibition. Gary's
    trying  to bring it back,  and pushing  the DC's-own-beer  concept. Not bad
    beer, either, ``Old Heurick''. Based on his grandfather's recipe, the taste
    and color are somewhat akin to Bass -- full-bodied, though not heavy, and a
    decent malt/hop aroma. Well carbonated.  A good brew, but  not stunning.




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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 11:02:37 CST
From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com at mcc.com (Wayne Allen)
Subject: Sad news from Texas?


John Mellby writes:

"Has anyone tried a mixture of ale and champagne yeast (for barley wine)?"

 Yes, works great. Use ale yeast first, and after initial ferment, add
 champagne yeast. 

"In fact, the only place in Texas (Sierra Nevada Celebration Ale) is
available is in Houston, and they only have 140 cases."

 Rover's Restraunt and Pub in Austin managed to lay in some SNCA; just 
 find a friendly bar and promise to drink all they order from Houston 
 (that's how I did it). 

 Walt's brewpub list mentioned Maggy May's in Austin, but it's just a
 bar with a fair selection of imports. Rover's (Austin and Houston) has
 the largest selection in Texas (> 200).

 wayne

 (ps. great quote, John!)

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 09:30:44 PST
From: polstra!jdp at hplabs.HP.COM (John Polstra)
Subject: Brewers Yeast (was: Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout)

In HBD #313, jamesb at microsoft (Jim Broglio) writes:
> I was reading a Vegitarian Mag the other day, an article touting 
> the wonderful benefits of Brewers yeast in your diet. The 
> article mentioned a brewers yeast available at health food stores
> which is cultured without the characteristic malts and grains and
> thus tastes "Good".
> My question is..... Will this work to build a better brew?

It most likely won't build a brew of any sort whatsoever.  The books I
have read all say that the "brewers yeast" which is sold as a food
product is deactivated (i.e., dead) and thus will not ferment anything.

> With all the different varieties of yeast available, German, British, etc
> how do I know where to start and what will go best with whatever??

The first distinction to consider, which I assume you already know
about, is the difference between ale yeasts and lager yeasts.  Once you
get past that, it gets a lot more subtle.  Still, there are some good
sources of information.  Wyeast publishes a two- or three-page leaflet
with a paragraph of description about each of the yeasts that they
supply.  Many homebrew supply shops have this and will give you a copy
if you ask for it.  (Jim, I know that the Cellar in Seattle has this.)
Also, check out the latest issue of Zymurgy -- the 1989 "special" issue.
The entire issue is about yeast, and there is at least one article
describing the characteristics of the different yeast strains available
to homebrewers.  If you don't subscribe to Zymurgy, you can buy it at
the better homebrew supply shops.

Joining your local homebrew club is a great way to learn about yeasts
quickly, because you can taste a lot of brews and ask which yeast was
used in each case.  After enough of this, your brain will begin to form
associations between flavors and yeast strains.

Finally, don't worry about it too much.  The most important thing is to
avoid the really bad yeast brands.  (The 3 worst brands are Red Star,
Red Star, and Red Star, in that order ;-)

-  John Polstra               jdp at polstra.UUCP
   Polstra & Co., Inc.        ...{uunet,sun}!practic!polstra!jdp
   Seattle, WA                (206) 932-6482

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 13:49:52 EST
From: boubez at bass.rutgers.edu
Subject: Looking for a certain taste and texture


As I have already stated in previous mailings, I am a newcomer
to homebrewing. For my next batch, I'm looking for a certain
flavour, taste, texture, I don't know the right words, but I'll try
to explain and see what the more experienced homebrewers have
to say. To use engineering terms, here are the final product
specifications:
	Dark beer, not bitter, but kinda sweet (not too sweet), smooth,
creamy with a strong head. Sort-of between Tartan and Guinness
draft (more powerful and creamier than Tartan, but not as strong as
Guinness)... Completely confused? I hope not, and I hope you can
help me. Thanks.

toufic



		Toufic Boubez
		boubez at caip.rutgers.edu


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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 10:56:58 PDT
From: John Streich <streich at milton.u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #313 (November 30, 1989)

I taught a class at out experimental college for several years here in
Seattle. I inclose the folowing info.
      I included a list of books with the provision that most of them are not
very good. (Probably not true anymore, but was at that time.)
      Arrange a discount with your local brew supply stores for class members.
Usually they are very glad to co-operate, though the discount usually only 

      By far the most successiful method was to have them start their own brew
after starting one in class togother.
brewries. (Rainier or Olympia.) They were both glad to arrange an actual meewit.


      We did simple brews using extract and grain for flavering rather then
malting our own. (THough I did not substute sugar for malt as in the simple
recipies available at that time.) This is good for a begining class but I see
no reason to continue into malting.
      We are lucky in this area to have just over the mountains a major hop
growing area and usually took a tour over there with a talk by one of the
more knowledgable growers. (More popular then it sounds.)
      We were not allowd to brew or sample on campus.
      All I can think of for now. Hope these inexpert tips help. E-mail me
if you wish more info.
                                      John

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Date: 30 Nov 89 13:20:00 MDT
From: "2645 RUTH, GUY R." <grruth at sandia.gov>
Subject: Crystal

Anyone out there ever used an oven to make crystal malt?  Is there a standard
procedure concerning temperatures and times for gauging the actual color that
would eventually be derived from the roasted malt (i.e. the Lovibond scale)?

I've talked with the owners of the two New Mexico microbreweries.  The brewery
in Albuquerque (producer or Michael's Golden Ale) is expecting to open a brewpub 
in '90.  Mike Levis of Santa Fe Brewing Co. in Galisteo (s. of Santa Fe) is 
negotiating with a couple of restaurants in Santa Fe for a site for a brewpub.  
Mike says to expect a brewpub next year which will be sporting their pale ale as 
well as an amber and a stout.

I've tried Michael's Golden Ale and Santa Fe Pale Ale back to back.  I barely 
made it past the first sip of Michael's before pouring the rest of it down the 
drain.  SF Pale Ale was soothing and creamy with a hint of hop bitterness.

If all negotiations work out for Mike Levis, SF Pale Ale will be available in 
California, Arizona and Colorado.  He is trying to get Black Mountain Brewery in 
Arizona and Boulder Brewery in Colorado to brew his recipe.

- -- Guy


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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 10:28:46 PST
From: polstra!jdp at hplabs.HP.COM (John Polstra)
Subject: Re: Lauter-Tun advice

In HBD #313, crawford.WBST129 at Xerox.COM writes:
> I haven't had very good luck with my lauter-tun and would like to know if
> anyone has any ideas for a better lauter-tun than what I'm using, or maybe
> it's my technique and not the hardware that is the problem...

It sounds like you're using the hardware and technique described in
Papazian's book.  That's what I do too, and over the last 15 mashes I
have found a few refinements that make it work a lot better for me than
it did at first.

(1) In his book, Papazian expresses a lot of concern about stuck runoff, and
much of his technique seems directed toward avoiding this potential
problem.  In my experience stuck runoff has never been a problem, and I
think Papazian's method sacrifices a lot of extract potential in trying
to avoid it.

> I fill the buckets with 170 degree water until the level is above the
> bottom of the inner bucket and then add my grain.

Don't do that.  Forget what Papzian says.  Just pour the entire contents
of the mash tun directly into the lauter tun.  You won't get a stuck
runoff, trust me.  By filling with water up to the false bottom, you're
just diluting your runoff with a bunch of water which is not going to
contribute to your extract.  (OK, sure you're recycling the runoff, but
still all this extra water is not going to be as effective as it should
be.)

(2) In addition to the perforated false bottom, I always use a grain bag.
This is a nylon bag with a mesh bottom, and it fits into your lauter tun
and rests on the false bottom.  The mesh helps to keep kernels of grain
from clogging up the perforations, and thus further alleviates any
lingering worries about stuck runoff.  Ask your homebrew supplier for
one, they're cheap.  Some people just lay a layer of cheese cloth over
the false bottom.  That should work ok, too.

(3) The nested bucket type of lauter tun can (depending on the shape of
your buckets) have much too much space below the false bottom.  Ideally,
you want the false bottom to be just above the exit spigot.  The spigot,
in turn, should be just high enough to be above most of the sediment
which is going to collect in the bottom.  (Mine is about 1" above the
bottom, and I wish it were lower.)  Remember, liquid that is not in
contact with the grains is not contributing to your extract.

I solved this problem by sawing off the top of my inner bucket, leaving
just the perforated bottom plus a couple inches of the bucket wall.  I
then sawed a few V-shaped notches in the wall, and a U-shaped notch to
fit around the spigot.  This new improved false bottom fits
(upside-down) into the outer bucket and is supported around the sides
by the notched walls of the former inner bucket.  It works much better
than the old nested bucket did.

It's a good idea to tie a short loop of string through a couple of the
perforations in the center, so you'll have a handle to pull the false
bottom back out of the bucket when you're finished.

(4) I'm glad you're recycling the first extract.  That's definitely a
Good Thing not only for extract efficiency but also for clarity.  You
should recycle until the runoff is very clear.  For me, that takes at
least two gallons of recycling.

(5) Make sure your sparge water and your grains in the lauter tun are
warm enough.  Wrap a towel or something around the lauter tun to
insulate it.  Keep the sparge water at the right temperature (168
degrees) and check it frequently.  If the temperature gets too cold,
your extract efficiency will suffer.  Don't let it get too hot, either,
or you'll get astringent flavors.

(6) The runoff from the lauter tun should be just a trickle.  It should
take at least 10-12 minutes to collect a gallon.  If you're sparging
faster than that, you're losing extract efficiency.

(7) Stop adding sparge water after you've collected about 5 gallons,
then let the rest of the liquids drain off of the grain.  You'll
probably get another 1.5 gallons or so.

The basic idea is to avoid adding unnecessary water, and to keep as much
of the necessary water as possible in contact with the grains.

I hope these tips help.  Happy sparging!

-  John Polstra               jdp at polstra.UUCP
   Polstra & Co., Inc.        ...{uunet,sun}!practic!polstra!jdp
   Seattle, WA                (206) 932-6482

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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 8:59:40 PST
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM>
Subject: Yeast Ramblings

HBD 313 was a delightfully rich issue.  In it, John Mellby asked
about the viability of ale yeast as opposed to Champagne yeast in
the high-alcohol environment of barleywine.  I wish I could give a
definitive answer (my barleywine is, at present, merely a collection
of ingredients waiting their turn in the brewkettle), but general
observations will have to do:  Wine yeasts (including Champagne)
seem to have a higher alcohol tolerance than ale yeasts, and will
continue to attenuate sugars long after ale yeast has called it
quits.  It would be an interesting experiment to split a batch of
wort and pitch half with each kind; I'd be willing to bet the
Champagne yeast half would be higher in alcohol, and the ale yeast
half would be sweeter.  I'll be using Champagne yeast next week when
I brew my barleywine.  And by the way, that's ONE HELL of
a .signature file ....  ;^)

In the same issue, Jim Broglio asked:
"With all the different varieties of yeast available ...
how do I know where to start and what will go best with whatever??"

Opinion: start with a rather general-purpose yeast, and STAY WITH IT
through several batches where other variables are changed.  Changing
everything at once (i.e., different yeast with an entirely new
recipe) will cut down on what you learn from a batch.  Perhaps the
best approach is to vary only one thing (such as the yeast, keeping
the recipe, process, and conditions the same as a previous batch)
and see how the beer changes.  If you're brewing ales, I've had good
luck with Edme (properly rehydrated, of course!).

	" ... brewers yeast available at health food stores
..... Will this work to build a better brew?"

Probably not.  Since they make a point of its not being cultured on
the characteristic grains, it was probably also not cultured for
brewing excellence.  In fact, since it's probably in a dry-powder
form, it might not even be viable at all, and if it is viable, will
probably have a very high spontaneous mutation rate.  Biological 
contamination (of a non-pathogenic, but beer-spoiling sort) could
also be a problem.

"I think that I will have to track some of this down and do a side by side
comparison brew."

Super.  Who knows?  It just might work ...  After all, who would
ever imagine that Belgian lambics would be drinkable, considering
how they're "pitched"?

= Martin A. Lodahl    Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff =
= pacbell!pbmoss!mal  -or-  mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM      916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!  8-)   =


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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 10:12:07 PST
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM>
Subject: Lauter Tun

In HOMEBREW Digest #313, Greg notes:

"I haven't had very good luck with my lauter-tun ...
I am using two plastic buckets ..."

I'd like to know a little more.  How much space is there between the
bottoms of the inner and outer buckets?  How high above the bottom
of the outer bucket is the tap mounted?  What size are the holes,
and how far apart are they?  What's the pH of the sparge water?

Your process sounds just like mine, with the exception that since
discarding the colander-and-mesh system I used to use, I've followed
Miller's temperature and pH recommendations.  My tun is a bit
different.  I mounted a drum-tap about 0.5" above the bottom of a
7-gallon plastic wastebasket, then used the cut-off bottom 1.5" of a
4-gallon plastic soap pail as a false bottom, with 0.25" holes
drilled on 0.5" centers.  I line it with a jelly-maker's straining
bag for use.  Tilting the tun slightly leaves only about a cupful of
wort left below the spigot, which is plenty of room for the fines
but minimizes the loss of the high-gravity first runnings.  Miller
claims in CHoHB that the lesser quantity of underlet required by
this close-set false bottom increases efficiency, but I don't quite
see how.

Perhaps someone can set me straight on this, but I've always
suspected that mashing procedure has more to do with extract
efficiency than sparging procedure.  If insoluble starches remain
unconverted, sparging will never extract them.

= Martin A. Lodahl    Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff =
= pacbell!pbmoss!mal  -or-  mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM      916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!  8-)   =


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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 19:42:33 PST
From: polstra!norm at hplabs.HP.COM (Norm Hardy)
Subject: BrewPubs

The list of N.American brewpubs (#169) was great.  I thought I might add a 
comment or two about two in Seattle, WA.
- ----------------------------------------
Pacific Brewing Co. - located in Pioneer Square, the "old-town" of Seattle, this
class H restaurant is owned and operated by the same people who started 
Manhattten Brewing and Commonwealth Brewing in Boston.  Richard Wrigley is the
owner.  Pacific Brewing Co. produces 6 ales, all served on tap.  Each comes in
its own distinct glass, sized from 10 oz to 15 oz.  The prices are $2.75 each.
The beer is not very distinctive, and in many cases, the beer is "off".  A 
regular order of fish-and-chips costs $9.50.  No wonder business has not been
booming there.
Our brewing club, the Brews Brothers, toured there this week and found Mr.
Wrigley to be very informative.  This is the first brew-pub we have toured that
has not offered any samples.  We had only 9 people there.
- ------------------------------------------
Big Time Brewery - consistently makes quality beers.  Their every Friday opening
of a Cask-conditioned beer is a popular event.  Brewer Ed Tringali is doing a
top-notch job.  The prices are good: $1.75 a pint, and $2.25 a pint for the
specialty beers.  Quality control is high.
- ------------------------------------------

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Date: 	Thu, 30 Nov 89 17:00:06 EST
From: hplabs!rutgers!dgbt.crc.dnd.ca!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick)
Subject: ginger beer


DISCLAIMER: THIS STUFF IS DANGEROUS! DO NOT MAKE IT!

Now that I've got that disclaimer out of the way, someone asked for a 
ginger beer recipe. Here is one I've been making for many years.
It is very carbonated, and quite refreshing. Also because it has a
limited shelf life (after which it explodes), it prompts lots of
impromptu "ginger beer parties" were I call several friends to say
"I'm setting off a dozen Ginger Beer tommorrow afternoon. Wanna come?"

By the way. does anyone have a SG to final bottle pressure table that one
could use to tame this recipe? I'd like to limit the pressure to about 90PSI
which is what I believe the cahmpagne bottles are made for. I assume it will
have to include temperature.

NOTE: READ ALL THE WARNINGS, and DON'T MAKE THIS STUFF!

	Nathan's Ginger Beer

Add following to primary fermenter

1/2 lb fresh ginger peeled, and grated.
1 lemon. peel grated, juice squeezed, remainder sliced.
5 tsps. cream of tarter (see spice section a grocery store
5 cups white sugar
2 canadian gallons of boiling water = 2*6/5 = 2.4 US Gal.


Add a lager yeast starter when cooled to < 80deg F, and cover.
let ferment for 3-7 days, and bottle in Champagne bottles.
Wire down plastic corks.

Leave in warm for 1 week, and then move to cool area.
Chill and test open 1 bottle each week, until they start to scare you,
then put all bottles in fridge, and drink them within 2 weeks.

WARNINGS:***************



USE ONLY REAL CHAPAGNE BOTTLES! SPARKLING WINE, BEER BOTTLES WILL EXPLODE!

IF LEFT OUT OF FRIDGE FOR MORE THAN 4 WEEKS, BOTTLES WILL EXPLODE

DO NOT LEAVE IN FRIDGE MORE THAN 4 WEEKS, AFTER THEY START TO SCARE YOU,
OR YOU RISK EXPLOSIONS INSIDE FRIDGE!

SET OFF OUTSIDE! CORKS GO 60 - 70'. BE CAREFUL WHERE YOU AIM! CUT THE WIRE 
CAGES WITH WIRE CUTTERS, DON'T TRY TO UNTWIST THEM. THEY USUALLY GO OFF 
THE INSTANT YOU CUT THE WIRE. IF YOU HAVE A HANGFIRE, BE VERY CAUTIOUS.
DON'T GO INSIDE WITH IT. AIM STRAIGHT UP IF YOU EVER WANT TO SEE THE CORK 
AGAIN!

 DO NOT LET THESE SIT AROUND TOO LONG! SET THEM ALL OFF WITHIN 6 WEEKS OF
MAKING THEM! I'M NOT KIDDING!!!!!

Have big glasses ready when you open them.

DISCLAIMER: THIS STUFF IS DANGEROUS! DO NOT MAKE IT! ;-)

Bill Crick       Brewius, Ergo Sum!


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Date: Thu, 30 Nov 89 20:39:42 EST
From: Dr. T. Andrews <ki4pv!tanner at uunet.UU.NET>
Subject: Re: "Short" Fermentation?

With people surprised that it takes less than a week to finish
primary fermentation, I think it's time for everyone to be reminded
to relax.

Around here, it takes about a day from when I pitch the yeast until
foam-fall (end of primary fermentation: that foamy head falls back
into the beer).  Brew one night, rack into secondary the second
morning.  (We don't need no steenking lager around here!-)

Time in secondary is scientifically calibrated.  The beer stays in
secondary until the time is exactly right: I'm in town, I'm not too
busy, I'm not too tired, and I remember to do it.  It is important
not to bottle while you're out of town or when you forget to do it.
Anywhere from a week to a month; allow longer in the fall and winter.
- -- 
...!{bikini.cis.ufl.edu allegra attctc bpa uunet!cdin-1}!ki4pv!tanner


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #314, 12/01/89
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