HOMEBREW Digest #3168 Fri 12 November 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Brewing Poem (John Wilkinson)
  BrewTek, Books by ABG & Startup Brewpubs ("Brett A. Spivy")
  Brewstmas (Marc Sedam)
  Gypsum and fermentation activity (Matthew Comstock)
  BJCP Styles (John Varady)
  Re: Kurt's continued clog ("Steven W. Smith")
  Teach a Friend to Homebrew Day (Paul Gatza)
  Bona Fide Styles ("Alan McKay")
  Yeast and Osmotic Pressure ("Tony Gallodi")
  Low alcohol homebrew ("RJ - Excelsior Phenomia!")
  RE: Aeration ("Frank J. Russo")
  Star San ("Alison, Colin, Scott Birdwell")
  The Secret (Biergiek)
  re: water woes (phil sides jr)
  To Secondary/ or not to seondary? (darrell.leavitt)
  Digest 3167 - Ken & Kim - NH Water (RJ)
  ASBC Color/Sulfur-Iron Water (AJ)
  2-Tier 3 vessel RIMS Plumbing Ideas (David Sweeney)
  H2S, Yeast energizer (Dave Burley)
  Bo(c)kbier (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  Cold-side aeration ("Brian Dixon")
  Home Malting (Dan Listermann)
  flaws ("Paul Niebergall")
  looking for a clone of buffalo bill's pumpkin ale (J Daoust)
  re: Star San foaming (Jason Henning *** New E-mail Address ***)
  Re: Winemaking ("Jack Schmidling")
  Why am I getting headaches? ("Kenneth Smith")
  StarSan info ("John Palmer")
  wheat beer protein rest ("Bayer, Mark A")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:05:36 -0600 From: John Wilkinson <jandjwilkins at earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Brewing Poem THAT IS PATHETIC! John Wilkinson wrote: > > A Brewing Poem by, > > George Arnold 1834-1865 (short but happy life?) > > Beer > > Here, > With my beer > I sit > While golden moments flit: > Alas! > They pass > Unheeded by: > And, as they fly, > I, > Being dry, > Sit, idly sipping here > My beer > > O, finer far > Than fame, or riches, are > The graceful smoke-wreaths of this free cigar! > Why > Should I > Weep, wail, or sigh? > What if luck has passed me by? > What if my hopes are dead,- > My pleasures fled? > Have I not still > My fill > Of right good cheer,- > Cigars and beer? > > Go, whining youth, > Forsooth! > Go, weep and wail, > Sigh and grow pale, > Weave melancholy rhymes > On the old times, > Whose joys like shadowy ghosts appear,- > But leave to me my beer! > Gold is dross,- > Love is loss,- > > So, if I gulp my sorrows down, > Or see them drown > In foamy draughts of old nut-brown, > Then do I wear the crown, Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:27:23 -0600 From: "Brett A. Spivy" <baspivy at softdisk.com> Subject: BrewTek, Books by ABG & Startup Brewpubs Good day all, Has anyone here had positive experience with BrewTek / Brewer's Resource? I have three purchases under my belt from them and ONE marginally positive experience. Just curious. Has anyone in the collective purchased, seen, perused, or read: How to Open a Brewpub or Microbrewery ? Was it worth the $ 159.00 that ABG gets for this tome? Is there anyone in this illustrious group that has actually reaserched, business planned, and/or set up a Brew Pub? As a chef that has been out of the business for a few years trying to raise two georgous red-headed daughters, the brewpub concept has piqued my curiosity. I have always intended to go back to the hospitality business when I could afford to work 75+ hours a week again, and this my be the way to do it. Thanx . . . Brett A. Spivy Shreveport, LA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 13:34:39 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Brewstmas Hey all: It's turning chilly, even in NC, and thoughts turn to the holidays and...presents!! I thought it might be interesting for people to post their list of the top three gadgets that they either (1) wish to buy, or (2) couldn't live without. Since many people would want a three-tier SS brewery if they had their druthers (remember: it's all yours if you just parrot your boss), why not stick to things under $100. If you know how much it costs, all the better. Blanket no affiliation language is a given. Here's mine: 1) plastic wine thief ($6) -- great for taking gravity samples 2) SS mash screen for converted keg ($35-100) -- got mine on sale from http://www.beeronline.com, works great and handles a 45lb grist bill with the greatest of ease! I'm cheap so I got the one that says "for use as a hopback"...works like a champ. 3) 10 gallon keg ($35-75) -- oooh, do I want one of these! P.S. If someone could just sell a new, food grade, high temperature mag drive pump for under $100 it would be on my list! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:37:36 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com> Subject: Gypsum and fermentation activity Greetings One of the ingredients you'll find in just about every homebrew recipe these days is gypsum, calcium sulfate (hydrated). In all-grain brewing it plays a roll in adjusting pH of the mash (let's not go there again). I'm not sure the role it plays in extract brewing. Some have mentioned flavor effects attributed to sulfates. I've read that calcium sulfate has some kind of effect on yeast flocculation. It is this latter effect that I'm curious about at the moment. I've got a extract kit pale ale going now. I didn't add any gypsum. The primary ferment is still going at about 1/4 - 1/6 bps (bubbles per second) after six days. This is about four days longer than batches in recent memory. I've used gypsum in nearly ever recipe prior to this one. While this is my first extract batch in quite a while, and it seems like my all-grain batches are more active and finish faster than my earlier extract batches, it feels like something else is going on. In short, I'm using the same procedures and yeast (Nottingham), but no gypsum. If gypsum aids in flocculation, maybe this batch is fermenting longer because the yeast is still floating around - not settling to the bottom quickly. Further, maybe the FG will be lower than batches using gypsum. Don't high flocculating yeast strains lead to higher final gravities? Am I making sweeter beers - higher FG - when I use gypsum? Why do we use gypsum in extract batches at all? Is is a flavor thing? Has anyone done the implied experiment: brewing with and without gypsum? Questions, questions. Matt Comstock in Cincinnati __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:58:47 -0500 (EST) From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: BJCP Styles Folks, I imported the new BJCP styles for 2000 into the MEMO PAD of my palm pilot. This is very handy for reviewing the styles during your travels or judging. If you would like an exported copy of the styles data in PALM PILOT MEMO PAD format (*.mpa), go to my homepage and download them from there: http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady You can import this file to the MEMO PAD using the PALM DESKTOP. Before importing them create a new category called BEER STYLES and import them into that. After importing you can HotSync the files to your Pilot. A Division of Harry Palm Entertainment (tm), John John Varady The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program Boneyard Brewing Custom Neon Beer Signs For Home Brewers Glenside, PA Get More Information At: rust1d at usa.net http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 15:00:27 -0700 (MST) From: "Steven W. Smith" <SYSSWS at gc.maricopa.edu> Subject: Re: Kurt's continued clog Kurt, I use nearly the same setup and haven't come near to having a clogging problem (and nary any line dancing...) The one glaring difference is that rather than a scrubbie I use about a 1 square foot portion of window screen. I roll it up rather loosely, so it's perhaps 3 or more inches at it's widest. Fold over the "far end" and use a ring clamp (or wire would be fine) to attach it to the drain pipe. That method gives a rather large surface area for straining. Afterwards, unroll the screen, rinse and put it away 'til next time. This is also, if I'm not mistaken, a clone of the ever-popular EASYMASHER (I'm not shouting, Jack is :-) I like to use whole hops, which filter nicely but I've used pellets as well. HTH, Steve >Thanks to all for your responses to my drain clog problem. > >Unfortunately my problem persists. I brewed a pumpkin ale this weekend and >used hop plugs instead of pellets hoping this would solve the problem. >Again after cooling, whirlpooling and allowing to settle for ten min. I >got a clogged drain after about a cup of wort drained out. > ... Steven W. Smith, Systems Programmer Glendale Community College. Glendale Az. syssws at gc.maricopa.edu And the demons of COMPAQ shall burn eternally for lobotomizing the once Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:54:51 -0500 From: "Ken" <wort01 at prodigy.net> Subject: WOTTEN EGG WATER WOES HBD water wizards help! Recently moved from Virginia where I had very nice brewing water to New Hampshire where I've got the most sulfury, rotten eggy (or is that hydrogen sulfide enriched) water I've ever encountered. I've got a whole house charcoal filter as well as a counter top charcoal filter and there is still a bit of the aroma to the water. What to do? Is there any hope? I am on well water and I haven't gotten a water analysis yet, but from what I've been told the water also has an elevated level of iron. Is there a way to chemically treat the stuff or do I need to just suck it up and shell out the cash for bottled stuff. I'm brewing 10 gal. batches so the thought of that hurt$$ a bit. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. TIA! Ken in Epping NH P.S. Inside info from a local brewer on this and a couple more questions I've got will get you a bottle of barleywine! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:29:57 -0700 From: Paul Gatza <paulg at aob.org> Subject: Teach a Friend to Homebrew Day Hi everyone. Teach a Friend to Homebrew Day, a joint project by the AHA and HWBTA to bring new people into the hobby, is this Saturday, November 13th. Here's a link to the pertinent area of beertown for more information. http://www.beertown.org/AHA/teachday.htm I ask all brewers to teach a friend the ropes of brewing this weekend. We all must take a personal stake in the success of the hobby of homebrewing. The more brewing that happens in a community means that a nearby shop can provide fresher ingredients and remain in business. The more brewers in a community means more potential members for your homebrew club. The more new brewers in your community means more homebrew to sample. As we know from recent events such as closing shops, the demise of BT and the reduced distribution of English grain, the hobby could use a boost and some new brewers right now. I will be brewing mead and porter with several friends in Sunshine. Thanks for your participation. - -- Paul Gatza Director American Homebrewers Association (303) 447-0816 x 122 736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 -- FAX PO Box 1679 paulg at aob.org -- E-MAIL Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info at aob.org -- AOB INFO Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:15:30 -0500 From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at ottawa.com> Subject: Bona Fide Styles Pat, I said : > No offense, but if you haven't had the > real thing, then you can't know the real thing. Apparantly you have had the real thing, and I would therefore welcome your input to the page. Yes, I know about jet planes ;-) I perhaps overstated with "if you haven't been there ...", but I did go on to say the above, and that's for certain what I mean. And of course I stand by it. If you haven't had the real thing, then you are only relying on 2nd, 3rd and worse-hand information. cheers, -Alan - -- Alan McKay amckay at ottawa.com http://www.bodensatz.com/ What's a bodensatz? http://www.bodensatz.com/bodensatz.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:47:30 PST From: "Tony Gallodi" <liquid_ditty at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast and Osmotic Pressure In DR. Fix's Book "Principles of Brewing Science"; he states at one point, that sudden shanges in osmotic pressure could damage the yeast. The example given, was yeast being transferred from a stage of rehydration, to a wort at, or above 16 balling (1.063). How likely is it that this damage would occur? ______________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:08:22 -0500 From: "RJ - Excelsior Phenomia!" <wortsbrewing at cyberportal.net> Subject: Low alcohol homebrew Thanks for all the responses... I decided not to go through all the gyrations that others, who answered my initial call for help, had done before me... Funky stuff, like fermenting then freezing the alcohol out or boiling it off at 160F, etc... whew, that had to be more trouble than it was worth... The overwhelming conscencious from those who took this approach was that it was more bother for less than good results. I patterned my recipe, more along the lines of a "small beer" basically using a partial mash setup (without any extracts) and by reducing fermentation by lowering the ferment temperature to the lower spectrum of the yeast's tolerance. Here goes... L.A. East (#156 10-23-99) 3# DWC Pilsen Malt 1.3L; 3.75 oz DWC Aromatic Malt 19L; 4.25 oz Gambrinius Brumaltz 18L; L09 (YCKC) German Lager Yeast (W35-70 strain) 75ml slurry in 300ml actively fermenting wort; German Mittlefruh, cones; German Hersbrucker, T-90 pellets; Licorice Extract Powder; Irish Moss; Soft water; 88% Lactic Acid; Dough-in at 64F in 4-1/4 Qts water; Raise temp to 136F in 18 min (stirring constantly), rest 10 min.; Raise temp to 148F in 10 min (w/out stirring), rest 10 min.; Add 1-1/2 Qts boiling water (and heat, if necessary) to raise heat to 158F, hold 60 min.; Sparge with 7-1/2 Qts 162F water that was pre-boiled and treated with lactic Acid to 5.2pH Add enough water to kettle to bring to 8 gal for 90 min boil, do not oversparge! (Please note, my system uses a "King Kooker" that blasts about 200k BTUs. When I boil, I evaporate a significant amount of liquid; Normally when I boil I loose 4gals; I actually cut back the heat on this one a bit!... You should adjust this for your system or boil longer... my wort going to the fermenter was 5.75gal, then I lost ~ 3/4gal to cold break & subsequent rackings). 1st wort 2.0 HBU Mittlefruh at 90 min remaining 0.9 HBU Hersbrucker at 75 min remaining 1/16 tsp Licorice Extract Powder (probably comparable to 1/2" of Brewer's Licorice Stick) at 60 min remaining 0.9 HBU Hersbrucker at 40 min remaining 1.0 HBU Mittlefruh at 40 min place 1/2 tsp I. Moss in 1/2 cup cold water at 15 min add I. Moss to kettle at 1 min remaining add 1/2 oz Mittlefruh in hop bag. Whirlpool and let set 20 min then remove hop bag. Counterflow. 5.75 gals of wort was 1.016 OG Let sit covered and airlocked ~20hours at 70F; Rack to primary removing as much cold trub as possible; Ferment 7 days at 46-48F (Note this is the low end for this yeast, I'd recommend trying to hit the low limit of whichever yeast you decide to use.); Remove primary to 65F let set for 24 hrs before racking to secondary (di_rest); Rest secondary at 40-42F for 8 days; 1.010 FG for 5 gal Keg and force to 2.7 vol CO2 Serve at 45-50F Has the soft "bread dough" flavor that I percieve when drinking Morretti Lager Not overly sweet and not to dry either... Might try dry-hopping next batch with 1/4oz Czech Saaz. Ciao & Good Drinking Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:21:23 -0500 From: "Frank J. Russo" <FJRusso at coastalnet.com> Subject: RE: Aeration First I want to thank all who responded to me via personal e-mail and posting on HBD on the issue of aeration of wort. The results I have received are probable in line with what I expected. 1/2 were of a technical issue on yeast growth and health. The other 1/2 was based on experience generally doing nothing special to aerate the wort and compensating by over pitching. I was even told by some who never had a bad batch and even under pitched with no aeration of any kind other than pouring from a height. I have come to the conclusion I may just need to create a test of 4 samples. Using the same wort : 1st - under pitched with no special aeration, 2nd - over pitch with no special aeration 3rd - normal pitched with a wort aerated with a pump for a couple of hours 4th - normal pitched with an aerated wort and continue the aeration for 8 hours after pitching. I would have my local HomeBrew Club, The ATF of New Bern, NC, then evaluate the samples not knowing the differences. Any ideas or recommendation? Would an Ale or a Lager be better to run this test on? I think I may have to do it with both. Why am I considering doing this? Other than curiosity and a love of brewing, I was trained as a Chemist so I kind of love to investigate things I do not know and no one can show me solid evidence other wise. Frank Russo FJRusso at Coastalnet.com "There is only one aim in life and that is to live it." Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:51:37 -0800 From: "Alison, Colin, Scott Birdwell" <defalcos at insync.net> Subject: Star San Dan Ritter was asking about Star San and excessive foaming "I just tried Star San as a sanitizer for the first time. I have been using Iodophor for as long as I can remember but, because I don't want to dump any sanitizer into my septic system, I have been dumping the used Iodophor on my driveway or in the field below my house. Star San is billed as being more environmentally benign so I decided to try it. What's with all the foam? It's like sanitizing in bubble bath! Has anyone been using this sanitizer successfully without all that foam? Or should I just ignore the bubbles clinging to the inside of my vessels after I pull them out of the Star San?" I've been using Star San for about two years now and like it very much. The foaming that you're noting is an important aspect of its sanitizing properties. It was formulated to be used in commercial applications in vessels where completely filling is not always an option like it is for homebrewers. Star San & water are added to these vessels and a pump is used to re-circulate the sanitizing solution over and over. As you might well expect, this creates a LOT of foam, but that's O.K. because this foam will get into all the nooks and crannies and sanitizes them. Believe me Dan, if you're using Star San, you want the foam! Don't sweat the little bubbles on your vessels. If they really bother you, you can rinse them off with boiled water or bottled or canned Bud/Miller/Pabst (fill in you favorite industrial brew name here). Hey, when people used to bring crappie beer to my house, I used to cringe. Now it just more keg and carboy rinse for me! Hey, can you think of a more appropriate use for Mega Brew than assisting with you home craft brewing? And they're pasteurized, too! Beautiful! Later. . . Scott Birdwell Hotter than Hades, Houston, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 01:44:00 EST From: Biergiek at aol.com Subject: The Secret A.J. says: >Proper pitching is one of the "secrets" that distinguish the really >good homebrewers from the flock. I've heard so many guys say >that this extra step was the one that really moved their beer quality >forward and I number mysef among those. All you beginning brewers take heed to the above comment, and to all the other xpurts page down! It has taken me 9 years of brewing to finally realize this. I can't think of one book on homebrewing that I own that mentions this. The only thing that even comes close is Dave Millers classic "Brewers make wort, yeast make beer" comment. That is why I have been so anal lately to gain yeast management knowledge. Fix's AOBT is the only homebrewing text that I have read that provides adequate details regarding this subject. The smack pack of any size or the vials of pitchable yeast for 5 gallons just won't get you there...start firing up those 2 gallon starters! Then we have this little jewel of a remark: >Eric (I have twelve inches, but I don't use it as a rule) Fouch >Bent Dick YoctoBrewery >Kentwood, MI You have to make rules regarding its use, and the only rule is not using it at all? I sense severe trauma in one's childhood... Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 02:20:14 -0500 From: phil sides jr <psides at carl.net> Subject: re: water woes Ken Writes: >water one could wish for to New Hampshire where I now have a much wider of >brewpubs to visit (Hooray!) but brew water that is lousy with sulfury, >rotten eggy, (or should I say Hydrogen Sulfide enriched) smells and from >what I've been told, a good bit of iron. The questions is, can I somehow >brew with it. From experience I know that whatever is in your water is i What do you get when you boil it first? Is the aroma left and do you get any precipitated gunk? What about taste? If I am reading your post correctly, you have not tasted it yet, correct? Also, municipal water or well water? Phil Sides, Jr. Concord, NH (about 30 miles northwest) - -- Macht nicht o'zapft ist, Prost! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 05:18:37 -0500 (EST) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: To Secondary/ or not to seondary? THAT is the quetion! I have again seen on the hbd a brewer stating that s/he does not secondary. Now I, at times, will not seondary a dark ale/ stout when I know that it is done fermenting, and when I know it will be cloudy and I don't mind having more yeasties on the bottom of the bottle....but to not seondary at all? Does anyone understand this? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:04:36 -0500 From: RJ <wortsbrewing at cyberportal.net> Subject: Digest 3167 - Ken & Kim - NH Water Hi Ken, Read your HBD post... Not sure how bad Epping water is.. I'm from the lakes region.. water does have iron in it, but is rather soft and temporary hardness (though a bit higher) is low too. My water pH is 6.7 - perfect for brewing - I don't know if your water is city, dug or artesian... Mine is artesian... My town sits above one of the states' largest aquafers and quite often (spring & fall, esp noticible) goes thru a metamophsis... During these times (either the rust is highly visible or HS in discernable, etc) I just boil the water before using. You might also try looking for a natural spring in your area. If you'd like an analysis and your on city water.. the city water works should be able to supply this for you. Elsewise, you can send your water to the state labs in Concord and for a nonminal fee (~$15.00) they'll test it for you. I've been brewing with NH water since 1978 (steady since 1993)... Have nearly 160 recorded batches, of which over 100 have been all grain. I can honestly say that water is rarely a concern or a problem. Ciao, RJ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:34:56 +0000 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: ASBC Color/Sulfur-Iron Water RE Dave's comment on the ASBC method for color measurement. It has nothing to say about dilution nor should it as beer is notorious for not following Beer's law under dilution. Like many things in p-chem, Beer's law works best when the solution is very dilute. When less dilute the color producing (dissolved) particles evidently interract with one another causing the extinction coefficient to change. The ASBC method is extremely restricted in its applicability - it was developed based on measurements on an ensemble of US and Canadian beers the darkest of which was SRM 7.6 or somewhere in that region. I've seen beer pairs in which the darker looking had a lower SRM than the lighter appearing. This is why I advocate the use tristimulus luminance as a first order description of beer color. This tells us how dark it looks similarly to the way SRM does. SRM and luminance correlate very well but luminance never labels a darker beer with a lower value than a lighter beer). By throwing in the two tristimulus chrominance parameters we have a complete description of the beer color (for a particular path - I've been using 5 cm because that's about the diameter of contest beer glass). I'd hoped I'd be able to get an article on this interesting subject into BT but alas, that won't come to pass. Perhaps the caramel coloring material does follow Beer's law through dilution to the extent that it can be diluted and measured by the SRM method. But note also that the SRM method depends upon the shape of the whole spectral absorbtion curve being close to the ensemble average of the 37 beers used in defining SRM. There's lots of ways this could have been done and that's why I'm curious as to how the number was actually obtained. My guess is that basis of the labeling is that x mL of the caramel added to y liters of beer causes an increase in color of z SRM. This implies that over some range of dilutions a brewer can calculate how much to add to get a desired color depth even though the extinction coefficients at full strength and diluted are not the same. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Ken in Epping has iron and sulfur in his water. These can both be combatted with air. Aeration sweeps out hydrogen sulfide, oxidizes sulfite to sulfate and also oxidizes Fe(II) i.e. "clear water" iron to Fe(III), the ugly yellow-brown gel which stains sinks, clothes, toilets etc. After sufficient aeration to effect the oxidation and gas escape, the water must be filtered through a tight filter to catch and remove the iron gel. Sand bed filters are good for this as they can be backwashed and reused. Water treatement companies sell equipment for removal of iron and hydrogen sulfide using this method. A convenient way for a brewer to get the required level of aeration is to recirculate the brewing volume with a robust pump returning to the container through a spray nozzle such as a shower head. - -- A. J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 08:01:13 -0600 From: David Sweeney <David at stulife2.tamu.edu> Subject: 2-Tier 3 vessel RIMS Plumbing Ideas I am 75% finished with a 2-tier 3 vessel RIMS system. I've completed the frame, gas line and burners (3 total), RIMS system with electronics, and keg conversion. The kegs each have two " couplers welded at the bottom; one for a valve and one for a thermometer. My question is this? What's the best way/path to plumb it up? My current idea is to buy 3 pieces of beer tubing (teflon) with tri-clover clamps on the ends. These "patch pipes" can then be moved easily during the mashing process to accommodate whatever path I need. My main requirement was to create a system that can be broken down quickly and easily for cleaning. I had considered going with a rigid path, but this degrades the above requirement. With my "patch pipes", I've devised two different configurations - one for mashing and one for sparging. In the mashing setup, one patch pipe goes from the mash tun outlet to the intake on the pump. The second patch pipe goes from the outlet on the pump to the inlet of the RIMS chamber. The third patch pipe goes from the outlet of the RIMS to the return manifold which sits on top of the mash. In the sparging setup, the second patch pipe above is disconnected from the RIMS inlet and attached to the boiling keg valve, which acts as an inlet. The third patch pipe is disconnected from the RIMS outlet and attached to the HLT outlet thus using the same return manifold to sparge. Any suggestions would be appreciated. And remember; a picture is worth 1000 words. David Sweeney Texas A&M University David at stulife2.tamu.edu <mailto:David at stulife2.tamu.edu> - --I'm learning big things Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:04:05 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: H2S, Yeast energizer Brewsters: Ken's new brewing water in New Hampshire is hydrogen sulfide and iron enriched and he wonders about how to brew with this water, At least you won't have to use WYeast Danish II lager yeast in your lagers.! I can offer several potential solutions: 1) obviously boiling the water before you brew or use it to dilute boiled wort is one way, since H2S is a gas. 2) It may be that the wort boiling will take care of this anyway, so as the Ozzies say "no Weirries". 3) In winemaking, 0.1 ppm of copper sulfate added to the wine makes any trace of sulfur disappear since the sulfide is so insoluble and the amount there is so miniscule. Add 0.15 mls (3 DROPS) of a 1% CuSO4.5H2O solution per gallon. This will be 0.1 ppm. I would add this one drop at a time, swirl and check. The reaction is fast so you can titrate it. Copper can also cause haze problems so don't overdose.. 4) I would think that if you had some copper chips or screening or a Choreboy which had oxidized, passing the water over this or just allowing the water to sit in contact with occasional swirling should do the trick. Try an experiment with a dirty copper penny or other piece of copper and see if the smell goes away in a small quantity of the water sealed in a jar overnight. In making lager, after the third or forth day sulfur is sometimes a by-product , probably due to the generation of amino acids containing sulfur from other sulfurous compounds in the wort, with a sulfur by-product. Much of this is scrubbed by CO2 during fermentation and the small amount left is consumed or doesn't bother the drinking. I can't say the same for ale yeasts. Probably the iron will cause you more problems than the sulfur, as it will lead to all kinds of hazes and the like as well as metallic tastes. I suggest you buy a whole house water softener, as iron in the water will degrade your brass fittings ( check the washer seats in your sinks) and copper piping over time. Pinholes in the pipes and blue water in your tub. It is a good investment. Too much iron intake can be harmful, especially to men. If you don't like the idea of switching to an all sodium diet, add a reverse osmosis (RO) deionizer at the kitchen sink as I did. Be sure your whole family ( including your dog) takes mineral tablets , like dolomite to make up for the loss of a mineral source. Oh yeah, this RO water is great for brewing and you get beer bullets, besides. - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Todd was impressed with the effects of adding a yeast energizer to a stuck fermentation. Todd, were you doing a John Bull Extract Scotch Ale? My experience in teaching brewing classes has been that these extracts are so low in FANs, I presume from sugar addition to replace the more expensive malt extract, that a yeast energizer or ammonium phosphate is a required addition. - ------------------------------------------------------------------- Keep on Brewin', Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 15:09:08 +0100 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: Bo(c)kbier Hi, If someone is interested in Dutch Bo(c)kbeers: http://matrix.crosswinds.nt/~grotenbe/bokbier/bbf1999/bbflijst99.html Greetings from Holland, Hans Aikema http://www.cybercomm.nl/~aikema/index.html Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 06:34:11 -0800 From: "Brian Dixon" <briandixon at home.com> Subject: Cold-side aeration >Miguel de Salas at UTas replied to a thread on aeration: > >>In 5 years brewing, 3 of which have been all grain and I also grow my own >>hops, I have never once gone to any greater lengths aerating my beer than >>to pour the water from a height or give it a good swirl with a long, >>plastic spoon. > >Just to add substance to murmurs of a possible antipodean conspiracy, I wish >to side with my twelve-fingered friend (just kidding Miguel, I know you >weren't born down there). I am very happy with the lag times and finished >product I get from splashy splashy wort transfer or frantic spoon waggling. >Just what is this north American obsession with airstones, oxygen tanks and >hours and hours of bubble, bubble toil and trouble? Give it a rest. The beer >will taste just as good and eventually even the callouses will go away. > >Steve Lacey With all the bad press against aeration (along with claims of gold-studded blue-ribbon beer spouting forth from the depths of argon-filled dark casks), I figured it was time to speak up. As far as I'm concerned, aeration makes a huge difference! I originally used little aeration, and had trouble once in awhile getting a beer to ferment, and had high final gravities whenever it didn't take off very well. I then used the splashy-splashy shake the carboy or pour from a height method and things got a lot better. Then on a whim, I bought my Liquid Bread Oxynator system and whoa! My beer all of a sudden surpassed 99% of the beers that I buy from professional microbrews (flavor, fermentation, attenuation etc). People that know me know that I brew some pretty darn huge beers (OG up to 1.125) and they attenuate well without a lot of effort on my part too. I'm not going back, and regardless of what the Foes of Aeration say, ... aeration works and works well! Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:57:28 -0500 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Home Malting Clifton Moore ( cmoore at gi.alaska.edu) writes: < It should be noted that other than loss of synchrony, higher steep temperatures foster microbial activity of a complex and thus far indeterminate nature.> I have found that microbial activity is the anaerobic variety and if the steep water is aerated. I hook my shop air to a line that blows air under a Phil's Phalse bottom which spreads the flow. There are never any nasty aromas with this method. I have found that a 48 hour steep gives enough moisture for full modification. If the piece is drying too quickly, make it deeper. Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com 72723.1707 at compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:19:04 -0600 From: "Paul Niebergall" <pnieb at burnsmcd.com> Subject: flaws Every time that I hear someone say the following, it makes me want to scream: >>Every time I read a post that says "I've never tasted the effects of >>insert your favorite brewing practice ("bad" or "good") here> in my >>beer," I want to scream. Maybe you haven't. But that doesn't mean >>it's not there! >Most of us (and I include myself here) are not able to be totally >objective about our own beers. Get some other experienced beer >tasters to try it, preferably "blind" (i.e., they don't know it is >YOUR beer). Until you do so, I won't believe your unsupported >assertion. People, we need to stop underestimating the ability of our own taste buds. Being an "experienced beer taster" is not some kind of Zen-like state that one achieves after attending tasting classes by George De Piro and then getting a Sieble diploma. It just is not all that complicated to educate yourself to be a good beer taster. I can assure you that most people who have been drinking and brewing beer for a decade or so qualify as "experienced tasters". Why do I say this? Because if you are a typical fanatical home brewer, you brew a lot of beer, you read the HBD, and you are completely aware of the flavor issues that exist in our hobby. How many of us out there actually chug our home brews and never give a thought to the various flavors that we are tasting? Every time I open a home brew, I do a full "sensory evaluation". It may not be a structured evaluation, but years and years of informal evaluations have taught me what is good and what is not. It really, really, is not that hard to develop the required skills. It is ridicules to go through life believing that your home brew has flaws in it, but you just cant taste them. I can see myself at my next homebrew party passing out samples of my latest creation........ "You know Bob, I have been brewing beer for over ten years know and I have drank in excess of 1000 gallons of quality brew from around the world. You may think this beer that I brewed is excellent, but in reality it is severely flawed, you just cant taste it. In fact, I cant even taste the flaws, but they are there none the less. Somebody from Michigan told me so in the HBD. No, he didnt actually taste the beer, but he reads a lot of books on the subject and posted some really neat chemical equations. Here, you had better put down that home brew and open up this can of Bud......................" If you want to believe that your beer actually has flaws in it that you cannot perceive, and if you insist on agonizing about boogy men that just are not there, go ahead and continue to live a frustrated life. But please dont tell me that my beer is flawed even though I (or anyone else without an anal complex) cant taste it. Paul Niebergall Burns & McDonnell pnieb at burnsmcd.com "Illegitimis non carborundum" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 07:31:54 -0800 From: J Daoust <thedaousts at ixpres.com> Subject: looking for a clone of buffalo bill's pumpkin ale Does anybody have a recipe for buffalo bill's pumpkin ale?? Thanks, Jerry Daoust Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:49:40 -0500 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: NEW ENGLAND FALL REGIONALHOMEBREW COMPETITION Attention fellow beer and cider enthusiasts: The Valley Fermenters of Greenfield MA present NEW ENGLAND FALL REGIONALHOMEBREW COMPETITION Shelburne Falls, Massachusetts, December 5, 1999 . Contact: Jim Wallace ... jwallace at crocker.com 11 High Street Shelburne Falls, MA 01370 413 625-2494 Entry deadline is Dec 1, 1999 __________JIM WALLACE ____________ jwallace at crocker.com http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 16:33:30 GMT From: huskers at psn.net (Jason Henning *** New E-mail Address ***) Subject: re: Star San foaming Dan Ritter <ritter at bitterroot.net> asks about Star San foaming in HBD 3167... It foams a lot if you shake it. Add the water first then the Starsan. Gently swirl it around the vessel. You only need to get the surfaces wetted. You'll get minimal foaming and a good rinse out. It really doesn't take much, I generally make about a pint of water and about teaspoon of Starsan to do a carboy. And you can ignore the foamy bubbles too. I asked 5-star about them a couple years ago. They said that where Starsan is used in keg lines, the foam is literally blown out of the kegs by the beer. There is no effort to remove the bubbles beforehand. It is almost odorless and tasteless in it's concentrated form. Phil Wilcox (who I've made tell this story too many times) was at a demonstration of Starsan. They put like a tablespoon of the stuff in a beer. It didn't greatly effect the beer! Changed the color but didn't alter the flavor or aroma. I love the stuff and recommend it. I also recommend PBW. I hate the "homebrew sampler", it's a little pricey. I've been ordering bulk quantities from Grape and Granary (http://www.grapeandgranary.com/) Cheers, Jason Henning I'm going to be (0,0) Rennerian for the UM-PSU game drinking hand pumped mild. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:26:16 -0600 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Re: Winemaking From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> >Jack, you want me to send you a free bottle of wine, I have an even _better_idea; you buy a Selections Premium wine kit and wait over a year for it to mature and try it...... And you can buy the Brooklyn bridge from me now and I promise you will only have to wait a year for the title to clear. > I don't want to be blamed for switching a commercial wine to a home vintner label..... I fail to see the logic here. You send me a $20 bottle of wine and it is so good that I complain about out it? > The data you judged concentrates by is 20 years old, by your own words...... And by your own words, the current stuff makes wine indistinguishable from $20 wine. But to prove it, I have to buy something from you and wait a year to continue this discussion . It's called putting your money where your mouth is. Do you have any idea how many free EASYMASHERS I gave away to get people to try them? Naturally, I selected discriminating people whose opinions people would respect. I am afraid if you wish to invigorate the wine making business (at least with folks who have been burned in the past) you are going to have to stick your neck out. I don't need a free bottle of wine and I have no interest in making wine with concentrates as I now have my own vines. However, I am interested in the craft and would be happy to do anything to promote it. Furthermore, I have nothing to sell and no axes to grind and a reputation I am proud of. Your option. js PHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm HOME: Beer, Cheese, Astronomy, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 10:56:00 -0600 From: "Kenneth Smith" <Kenneth_Smith at enron.com> Subject: Why am I getting headaches? Forgive the bandwidth waste if this question betrays lack of knowledge, but I would appreciate your commentary. Private mail is fine. I am 36 years old, have been brewing for about 3 years, and for some reason, I am noticing that I tend to get pretty wicked headaches when I consume some of my brew. I am not talking massive quantities here... one 22oz bottle will do it. I know fusels can be the cause of this, but I do not think my process is causing them in excess. The beer is great, if a bit malty. Am I just getting old? Should I try a less malty recipe? Any ideas welcome, because it has gotten to the point that I do not brew that often anymore. BTW, I occasionally notice similar headaches when I drink Fuller's or Old Peculier. Never with lagers or very light commercial ales. I do a mini mash. My basic pale ale recipe is 7# MES, 2#pale malt, some small quantities of other specialty grains (varies according to which experiment I happen to be conducting). I have been recently using White Labs WLP001 - California Ale yeast with no starter in addition to the vial. I normally do a high flavor / aroma hop addition with about 30IBU bitterness. I have a refrigerator and ferment at 68 degrees in plastic, rack to glass, and then bottle. Commentary is welcome. Ken Smith Houston, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 09:14:02 -0800 From: "John Palmer" <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: StarSan info Steve asked about the foaming action of StarSan: Here is the website for info: http://www.fivestaraf.com/products/cleaners/starsan.html >From my own discussions with the company, as well as my experience with the product, I can offer this info. The foam works just as well as a sanitizer as the liquid. The foaming agent is the same as that used in toothpaste. There is a low foaming version called SaniClean. The product warnings that you read on their website (avoid contact with skin, etc) are due to FDA regulations for the undiluted product. My friends and I regularly dunk our arms in the solution and experience no redness or irritation, unlike when using bleach. At more than the recommended concentration (1 oz per 5 gallons) they recommend a potable water rinse. I have not experienced any off flavors when using StarSan, nor have my friends in our brewclub when not rinsing. John Palmer Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 11:23:53 -0800 From: "Bayer, Mark A" <Mark.Bayer at JSF.Boeing.com> Subject: wheat beer protein rest collective homebrew conscience_ kmacneal pondered the following: >jdickins at usit.net writes: >>I've got a question about mashing a wheat beer. I want to do a decoction >> to get the benefits from it, but I don't like the side effects that come with >> the long protein rest at 50C. >What are the side effects that come with "the long protein rest at 50C"? obviously, i can't speak for jdickins, but the side effects i have observed in my own weizen decoction brewing (with long 50c protein rests), have been the following: 1) best of show at memphis (1996?) and 2) first place at the 1998 saint louis brews hhh competition. ymmv. brew hard, mark bayer stl mo Return to table of contents
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