HOMEBREW Digest #3210 Sat 01 January 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Happy New Year; Server Shutdown... (The Janitors)
  leaching tannins (Kurt Goodwin)
  Hygrometry (Dave Burley)
  Wyeast Munich (AJ)
  Re: Stuck fermentation (KMacneal)
  Oxygen Thread Correction (Mark_Ohrstrom/Humphrey_Products)
  Re: Valey Mill Motors ("David Elm")
  Yorg's Pump Problems ("Bruce Garner")
  Reusing C02 tank ("Bruce Garner")
  Yeast Culturing ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Last brew & new beer (erniebaker)

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * *** HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO YOU AND YOURS! *** * >> Note: The HBD server will be shut down 12/31 >> through 1/1/00. Yes, we're Y2K compliant - >> that's not what we're concerned over... >> Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 12:05:27 -0500 From: The Janitors <janitor@hbd.org> Subject: Happy New Year; Server Shutdown... Greetings! And Happy New Year! Sending the first Digest of 2000 out early as we'll soon be shut down. Just didn't think you'd want to start the new millenium off WITHOUT your daily dose of Digest :-) Happy New Year! Remember: the server is shut down until 1/2/00! Cheers! The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 01:51:28 -0500 From: kurt at greennet.net (Kurt Goodwin) Subject: leaching tannins Paul Niebergall wrote "Dilute wort always tastes like sweet watery tea. If you dont believe it, try mixing a couple of teaspoons of dried malt extract with a cup of warm water and taste it. This flavor in no way proves or disproves the presence of tannins (tannoids, tannerites, or what ever you want tocall them). Still a momily, in my book." I've tasted the runoff when it gets below 1.010 (down to 1.002 on one disasterous day, in fact), and I'd have to say that it DOES taste like weak tea - and NOT like a small amount of malt extract disolved in water. The former has a certain not-great taste (astringency) that resembles leaving tea leaves in a cup too long and is noticably different than the weak sweetness the latter provides. Don't know if it's tannins, tannoids, or proteinaceaous polysaturated bucky balls, it don't taste good and it ain't going in my beer. Mom cooks better than a lot of scientists. They can argue over what to name the things she keeps out, but I'm betting on her knowing what to do to maximize flavor! Ciao for now Kurt Goodwin Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 07:50:26 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Hygrometry Brewsters: JackS asks about hygrometry and if his calibration salt solution is temperature dependent. At lower temperatures his hygrometers' relative humidity reads higher than at a higher temperature. Relative humidity is a temperature dependent measure. If the salt solution is holding the vapor pressure constant, then lowering the temperature should change the relative humidity in this direction. Check the wet bulb/dry bulb tables and correct your readings from the standard temperature. If not, I can offer these suggestions: : Three possible situations 1) The vapor pressure of water above a salt solution is temperature dependent - which I suspect it is. It may not be much, however for a concentrated salt solution. However, intuitively, I assume the vapor pressure above a salt solution would go down with temperature, as does water, so I doubt that is the problem. 2) The humidity of the air in the test chamber ( I am assuming a small chamber) is being affected by another source, like maybe a puddle of water or your cheese. Try it with the chamber empty. 3) The hygrometers are temperature dependent, since the inexpensive ones often depend on the the air humidity affecting the physical characteristics of an object like the length of a string or human hair. Also, intuitively, I would assume the hair would hold more water at a lower temperature and indicate a higher relative humidity. If so, this is a likely source of error. How does yours work? Why not call the National Bureau of Standards in Washington, D.C.? Or the manufacturer of the hygrometer. - ----------------------------------- Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 13:42:29 +0000 From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Wyeast Munich For Darrell: The Wyeast Munich lager strain has a reputation for occasionally doing squirrely things. A week or so ago I reported that a festbier I had in lager had developed a hot, phenolic (i.e. spicy) character and that the polyphenols level had actually increased over time. It was, as you might have already guessed, made with this strain. I suspected contamination but a couple more weeks of lagering and the spicy quality was gone - the beer is now very, very smooth and neutral though the polyphenols are still around 400 mg/L. Give yours some time and see what happens. - -- A. J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:13:39 EST From: KMacneal at aol.com Subject: Re: Stuck fermentation I dont' think you're stuck. Your mash temperature is high which will give you a dextrinous wort which will result in a high final gravity. RDWHAH, Keith MacNeal Worcester, MA In a message dated 12/29/1999 12:14:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, DawgDoctor at aol.com writes: << 104 F 140 F 158 F x 30 min each mash schedule Initial runnings 1.062 pH=5.2 Final runnings 1.032 pH=5.3 Kettle (collected 7 gallons) 1.042 pH 5.15 Final wort (5.5 - 5.75 gallons) 1.052 I racked this into the secondary last night after 8 days and the gravity read 1018. By reading previous digests, I am way under pitching my yeast. I pitched about 400ml of Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale yeast. Apparently, I have always way under ptiched and have made some excellent brews with extract prior to all grain brewing. (This is my 11th all grain brew.) I got active fermentation somewhere between 12 and 24 hrs. Did not get that big thick foamy head like I did with my belgian white. Is this a stuck fermentation? >> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 11:05:27 -0500 From: Mark_Ohrstrom/Humphrey_Products at humphreypc.com Subject: Oxygen Thread Correction Buddy LeSage corrected my post on Oxygen regulator threads. They have right-hand threads. It's the fuel side that's got the odd twist. Should have climbed out of my Y2K bunker long enough to look at the ox/acetylene torch in the garage! Happy New Year to all! Mark (Y2K Defiant) in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 09:07:18 -0700 From: "David Elm" <delm at cadvision.com> Subject: Re: Valey Mill Motors I suggest you use a GE gear moter (170RPM) direct connected via a rubber coupling to the shaft. I got the gear motor from SURPLUS CENTER at 800-488-3407. The part number is 5-1098 and it was $25US+shipping. I can e-mail pictures if requested (delm at cadvision.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:32:01 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: Yorg's Pump Problems Yorg, I have the high temperature mag coupled pump from Moving Brews. I like it but have problems as you do with grain going through the system. The grain clogs the ball valves I use to regulate flow. I intend to use a footie nylon stocking in a canning jar analogous to a fuel filter in a automobile. I will put this at the outlet from the mash tun. You might try this and not need a new pump. I find that footie nylons can be cleaned and boiled and used all through the brew process. I attach one across the top of my open fermentor like a hammock or banana to catch hop bits and some trub down stream of my counterflow chiller. The wort oozes along the surface and drips off getting more oxygen in the process. Hope this helps. By the way Yorg, are you in or near Sydney? I will be coming for the Olympics. Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:39:19 -0600 From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> Subject: Reusing C02 tank Steve, My tank is a reused extinguisher tank. It works fine. You may need a hydro test. I believe that extinguishers and tanks for beer and soda are filled from the same C02 source. The fittings are different. Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 12:17:30 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Yeast Culturing On Thu, 30 Dec 1999, Jacob Bogie said: > My apartment is cool...around 64 degrees F year round so my starters > usually > take 2-3 days to krausen, but the yeast slants? Can they incubate and > reproduce in this temp? > I'm not too worried about it...I turned up the heat to 74 in my bathroom > and > put the slants and starters up high on the tallest shelf I have. I would > assume that ambient temp. is around 72-75 degrees. > I do all of my culture incubations at 77F (25C). 64F should be OK since this is higher than normal lager fermentation temps and just about right for ales. Growth may be a bit slower, but should not be adversely affected. Keeping starters around their fermentation teperature is advisable though... If you like you can make a little incubator pretty cheaply and I made mine out of spare stuff I had lying about my house. I used a large styrofoam box that was originally used to ship frozen meat as the incubator housing. It was a two piece construction with a solid bottom & walls in one piece and the top for the other. I like keeping it simple but any insulated box with a large enough internal space will work. I then used some old terrarium stuff for the heater and thermostat. A reptile heating pad works very well, uses very little current and transfers heat uniformly over a large surface area. It costs a few bucks, but I had it lying around. I placed a few sheets of aluminum foil between the pad and the styrofoam just so that I don't have a heating element against the styrofoam. A fish tank heater submersed in a water-filled glass jar will work well too but do not use the internal thermostat found in most of them since it only measures the temperature of the water and not the ambient air inside the box. The simplest and cheapest way to go is to use a low wattage light bulb shielded by a metal can (soup can) for heat. The light bulb and aquarium heater methods however, do not provide uniform heating. I used a bellows-type thermostat and microswitch to control a relay which powers the heating element. A mounting bracket can easily be constructed out of miscellaneous sheet metal pieces found in you local hardware store. Since I didn't want to use epoxy to hold EVERYTHING in place I used long bolts with wide washers to hang the thermostat and switch from the lid. The long bolts go through the thick styrofoam walls and the wide washers help to keep the bolt heads from sinking into the styrofoam. It takes a bit of fiddling, but the thermostat and switch keeps the incubator at 77 +/- 2 degrees. I was surprised. When I have time, I'll make a digital control like the one I'm building for my fridge and maybe stick a plastic window on it. This may be cheaper in the long run than heating an entire room a few more degrees. > One other thing...When I "culture" or inoculate a plate to clean the > strain...what is the best characteristics to look for in the new yeast > colonies? Are there tell tale signs of a bad colony? I have a lot of > bottle > conditioned yeast to clear out. > Single, big, uniformly round, white or creamy colored colonies may be assumed to have grown from a single yeast cell. Pick at least the best three to make separate slants - just in case you do not choose wisely on one try. Also give Jim Liddl's page a try. He's got some good info and links. http://www.liddil.com/ > Glen Pannicke > Merck & Co. > Computer Validation Quality Assurance > email: glen_pannicke at merck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 1999 10:44:20 -0800 (PST) From: erniebaker at webtv.net Subject: Last brew & new beer To finish out the year, I brewed 5 gal of German Ale yesterday and today it is very busy making bubbles. To celebrate, I purchased a couple 6 packs of "SN" Celebration Ale (6.8%), so I'm ready & a happy New Year to all... Ernie Baker 29 Palms, CA God gave us Beer because He Loves us and wants us to be Happy! Return to table of contents
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