HOMEBREW Digest #3231 Tue 25 January 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  alternative St Paddy's brew (Jeff Renner)
  Overnight mashing ("Randy Billmeier")
  MCAB II ("Mike Fitzpatrick")
  Stuck fermentation... Not! ("Randy Hall")
  Saflager yeast ("Mike Pensinger")
  wyeast kolsch 2565 off-flavor ("Dan and Kim Lyga")
  Mill competition solved! (AlannnnT)
  Bottling with coffee flavors (DawgDoctor)
  Brewing/Sparge Water pH Adjustment (Dennis Himmeroeder)
  Chili Beer (VQuante)
  Stuck Easy Masher.... (DawgDoctor)
  Efficiency using 1 step decoction (DawgDoctor)
  Ginger Beer ("Harry & Kat")
  thermowells (Susan/Bill Freeman)
  Re: Bad news for sour, Flanders beer lovers (Mike Uchima)
  OG Sample Chiller (William Frazier)
  Soured Guinness (Tony Barnsley)
  5 yr old homebrew found ("MAS, JOHN C. [FND/1820]")
  Jethro's new brewester! (Julio Canseco)
  Re: Bottling question (Jeff Renner)
  Yeast starter aeration ("Alan Meeker")
  Arizona Micro Malting (Mark Rogerson)
  Initial Boil Scum (John DeCarlo)
  Boston Homebrew Competition & MCAB III Qualificaiton (Timothy Holland - Supply Program Manager)
  Filter answer and question (Paul Shick)
  Faking a Decoction ("A.J. Zanyk")
  more on mag stirrers ("Alan Meeker")
  Re: Burst Sparging (Joel Plutchak)
  Best of Brooklyn Homebrew Competition ("George de Piro")
  Germany Beer Tour ("Philip J Wilcox")
  Re: Beer Color (SRM to RGB?) (Spencer W Thomas)
  Temp of pH measurements (Dave Burley)
  Boulevard Stout (Joe Gibbens)
  false bottom ("Evans, Timothy")
  RE: thermowells ("Paul Campbell")
  Body and mouthfeel (Dave Burley)
  Cave Creek Chili beer (BOB STARK)
  Extraction rates (WayneM38)
  Tropical Beers ("John Lifer, jr")
  Re: self-priming pumps ("Sean Richens")

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Entry deadline for the Mayfare Homebrew Competition is 3/15/00 * See http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 15:09:18 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: alternative St Paddy's brew "FLEMING, JOE" <JOE.FLEMING at spcorp.com> wrote >Boy, all this stout talk -- you can tell its a fermentation away >from St. Patty's day! OTOH, let me suggest an alternative I suggest every few years, Irish-American Red Ale. Here is my post from several years ago. I've received good feedback from happy brewers. Feel free to substitute ingredients or modify procedure, of course. I do think I'd just do a single step mash for simplicity's sake. Let me know how it turns out if you do brew it. -=-=-=-=-=-=- It's about time to think about brewing a beer for a St. Paddy's Day party. How about something different from the usual stout or green beer, something with an American touch? I've made an Irish-American ale that I figure is similar to what was served in Irish neighborhood taverns in the Northeast 100 years ago, although I have no proof. Maybe like McSorley's? It's sort of a red ale with corn, flaked barley, medium crystal and a touch of chocolate. It's a little stronger than a British session beer, a little less than typical US beers (due to higher FG), and certainly less strong than the authentic ales of a century ago, but they didn't have to drive home then. This is popular with Killian's drinkers as well as real ale fans as it has enough interest to hold them. Resist the temptation to up the bitterness as it is inappropriate in this style. McGinty's Irish-American Ale 5.25 gallons at 1.044 5.5 lbs 6-row (US 2-row should work, too) 1.75 lbs flaked maize .75 lbs flaked barley 0.5 lbs crystal 30L 2 oz. chocolate Mash 154F 60 minutes. Actually, though, I did a 40/60/70C mash (30 minutes at each step) adding the corn at 60C. The 40C rest may have helped break down beta-glucans in the barley, and passing from 40 to 60 over 30 minutes or so effectively gave me a protein rest, which may have made the beer clearer. Irish moss might not hurt. Bittering hops - Cluster (I used 3/4 oz for 19 IBU) Finishing hops - Golding (Domestic would be fine) (I used 1/2 oz for 15 min. for 4 IBU and another 1/2 oz at knockout) (FWH might be nice here) Target 23 IBU Irish Ale yeast YeastLab A05 OG 1.044 FG 1.015 Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 18:38:23 -0500 From: "Randy Billmeier" <randallb at maine.rr.com> Subject: Overnight mashing Does anyone know of any problems with mashing while you sleep? It sure saves on the length of the brew day. What problems might occur if the mash is left for 6 - 8 hours? Thanks, Randy Billmeier randallb at maine.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 15:29:22 -0600 From: "Mike Fitzpatrick" <fitzbrew at earthlink.net> Subject: MCAB II While all the details have not been posted yet, you can find general information on MCAB II at the following website- http://www.stlbrews.org/events/mcab.asp Updates will be posted here as soon as things are finalized, but you can expect to find presentations by recognized brewing authorities such as George Fix, A tour of the A.B. pilot plant geared toward the technical aspect of brewing, a pub crawl, and more. Bookmark the above site to keep informed! Thanks, Mike Fitzpatrick V.P. St. Louis Brews Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 13:56:47 -0800 From: "Randy Hall" <randy_hall at earthling.net> Subject: Stuck fermentation... Not! List: I had a most amazing thing happen to me moments ago: I found out that the beer I have in my carboy is going to ferment after all! Perhaps a little background is in order. Since I'm still a novice to this hobby, I've been experimenting with malt extract syrups and pre-hopped malt extracts. I also decided that, as my second brew, I would try steeping a bag of 60L Crystal malt in the boil to at least make it more interesting. So, I believe I had followed all the directions and put the wort into my primary to get started. I shook and shook it as many homebrew novices would. The wort was still a little warm (high 80's), but I was anxious and pitched at that higher temperature. I was mortified by the results. The yeast almost immediately sank to the bottom and it looked like my beer was going to go nowhere. That was this last Saturday (1/15/00). The next morning, there was a one-inch thick layer of sediment at the bottom, and it appeared hopeless. None of the books or websites told of such things happening, so I feared the worst: my beer was ruined and would never ferment. I checked it each day until Thursday, getting more depressed each time. On two occasions, I nearly decided to pop the airlock and ditch the failed brew. After Thursday, I didn't bother checking anymore. There was no change from day to day, and by now there had to be something wrong. Fast forward to 20 minutes ago... Imagine my surprise when I walk in and see that it's krauesening and the airlock is bubbling furiously and beer-making seems to be commencing normally. I'm both thrilled and troubled, as I have no idea if the beer will be any good after sitting so long without fermentation going full steam... So here's the question to the list: Is a 5-6 day waiting period normal for primary fermentation to begin? I'll keep the list posted as to the result, as I'm sure you all care enormously ;) Cheers, Randy Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 20:55:56 -0500 From: "Mike Pensinger" <Beerlvr at hrfn.net> Subject: Saflager yeast I have heard about the Safale yeast and the fact that it tolerates higher temps without odd off flavors. Is the Saflager the same way and if so what are its temp ranges. Is there a place to find specs on it? Mike Pensinger beerlvr at hrfn.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 21:27:19 -0500 From: "Dan and Kim Lyga" <lygas at snet.net> Subject: wyeast kolsch 2565 off-flavor Hello. I was wondering if any has encountered any off flavors when using Wyeast kolsch 2565. When I racked the beer into the secondary, and even after tasting the beer a week after bottling, it had a distinctive mineral, almost medicinal, taste that seems to linger. I fermented in the mid-to-upper 60s and did not notice any obvious quirks. I am very new to homebrewing - 1 extract and this is my second all grain recipe - so, it is quite possible that there is a problem in my process. Although my first all-grain, a brown ale, came out quite well. Thanks in advance for any advice... Dan Lyga Harwinton, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 21:52:37 EST From: AlannnnT at aol.com Subject: Mill competition solved! Hi Y'all, I've found a solution to the problem of which Mill should I buy/which mill is best/which mill doesn't charge a handling fee. I use a JSP Malt Mill (tm) for pale and pilsner malts. It's an adjustable one, but if I had to do it again, I would go with the standard mill. It's way faster than the Phil Mill, so twenty to thirty pounds or grain are no big deal to crush. For high kilned, dark and roasted grains, I use a Phil's (Phabulous) PhilMill. This way, I don't get little dark pieces of roasted barley mixed in with my German lager malt. I can adjust it to just barely crack the brittle dark grains. I've never seen a Valley Mill, so I don't feel like I'm letting anyone down. Is that politicaly correct or what? I've mounted both mills permanently to a unit of commercial steel shelving. It's sort of a grain mill 'station'. The JSP mounts on top of a shelf. The shelf has a slot cut in it. The ground grain falls through the slot into the bucket below. I like it because it is very rigid, and makes very little mess. The Phils Mill mounts on a curved steel arm which is bolted the the side of the shelving unit. The crushed grains fall into a smaller catch bucket. Both mills have an extended homemade hopper. Oh, and my old Corona Mill? I sold it really cheap to an extract brewer who did not have a lot of money to spend. (I've been thinking of taking the couple of bucks I got for the Corona and sending it to the Meeker defense fund.) Best Brewing, Alan Talman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:15:09 EST From: DawgDoctor at aol.com Subject: Bottling with coffee flavors Primed a few bottles of stout two weeks ago with 3/4 tbsp. of flavored coffee syrups. Had the first one tonight and it tastes pretty darn good. The carbonation is much coarser than the carbonation from corn sugar, it is kind of like bottling with brown sugar or molasses. Doesn't have the nice fine creamy head that the corn sugar bottles have either. The hazlenut flavor and aroma is dominant. Wouldn't reccommend doing an entire batch, but try a few bottles next time you brew a stout. Todd in NC Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:55:05 -0500 From: Dennis Himmeroeder <dennish at palmnet.net> Subject: Brewing/Sparge Water pH Adjustment I'm getting ready to brew 5 gallons of an all grain Bohemian Style Pilsner and need to know a little more about how to adjust my Brewing and Sparge Water pH. I'm planning on using distilled water as my base. I also have some Phosphoric Acid from St. Pat's that's 21% strength. Also what is the best way to accurately measure small doses of the acid. Thanks, Dennis in FL Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 11:35:05 EST From: VQuante at aol.com Subject: Chili Beer > I am looking for a beer that I can't find anymore, > haven't seen in four years, and can't remember > the name of the brew. Yes, I DO KNOW it's a little late, but I try to catch up. I searched my data base and found, that this chili beer was even sold in Germany - I drank it in april '95. Written on the label it had the text: "Crazy Ed's Original Cave Creek Chili Beer Black Mountain Brewing Co. Inc." and was brewed somewhere in Arizona. Its alcohol content was 4,7% by volume. Hey, I even found, that I have a thumbnail of its label, but - sorry! - in awful quality. 6 kB, if anyone is interested... Volker Volker R. Quante Brunnenbraeu Homebrewery Brewing and working in Warsaw / Poland, but definitely a German Homebrewer Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:15:46 EST From: DawgDoctor at aol.com Subject: Stuck Easy Masher.... Anyone ever had problems with a stuck sparge using an Easy Masher? This is my second try with the Gott Cooler version and second stuck sparge. I crushed with the JSP mill. I collected my first 2 gallons at full flow, poured it back in to filter, collected a second 2 gallons of very clear wort at full flow, then suddenly, STUCK SPARGE. Almost an hour later I managed to collect my 7 gallons. I ended up getting quite aggressive, racking the screen with a spoon, moving it around with the spoon ect. I'm very dissapointed, never had collected wort that clear before, just ended up getting cloudy again from all the stirring around. Todd in NC Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:16:04 EST From: DawgDoctor at aol.com Subject: Efficiency using 1 step decoction 8.75 # 2 row American Pale Ale Malt 2 oz Chocolate 2 oz 60 L Crystal Doughed in using 24 oz per pound of malt using room temp water, allowed to stand for 30 min, then added 12 oz per pound of boiling water and boosted to 95 F for 30 min (pH 5.38), then boiling water and external heat to 131 F for 1 hour, decocted 0.5 quarts per pound of malt (about 5 quarts, held at 155 for 10 min.) and boosted with external temp to 150 for 75 min. Collected 7 gallons after sparge at 1042. Got a finishing gravity of 1051. The clone brew book called for 1048 to 1051. Never reached the gravity stated in a recipe until now. My efficiency increased by 5 to 7 points, apparently due to the decoction. Would someone please enter my data into a program to calculate my efficiency? Thanks Todd in NC Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:55:01 -0600 From: "Harry & Kat" <grb2980 at cyber-south.com> Subject: Ginger Beer My mother had a ginger beer in New Zealand about three years ago. It was in a bottle, not draft. She can't remember the name of it or the brewery. She has asked me to recreate it. Any information or ideas about this brew would be helpful. Harry Grier Dothan Alabama grb2980 at cyber-south.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:50:48 -0600 From: Susan/Bill Freeman <potsus at bellsouth.net> Subject: thermowells Thermowells are usually filled with a heat transfer gel that makes up for some of the lag time in temp readings. Regardless of what you do, the readings will be somewhat slower on the uptake. The prime reason for thermowells is to protect the bimetal strips inside in the end of the thermometer from bumps and dings as you stir. If there is no chance of these two things happening, then the thermometer will read more quickly without the well. The fact that the well is brass (although most I have seen are stainless) has little to do with the heat transfer which in the best of conditions is going to be a bit slower. The other reason for a well is to allow the removal of the thermometer without creating a hole in the tank. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 23:12:43 -0600 From: Mike Uchima <uchima at pobox.com> Subject: Re: Bad news for sour, Flanders beer lovers Fellow beer lovers -- The attached message was recently posted to rec.crafts.brewing; I thought it would also be of interest to the HBD as well. Dan has indicated to me in private e-mail that he is trying to organize a write-in campaign; I'll keep the digest updated with any further information I get. - -- == Mike Uchima == uchima at pobox.com == - --------------------------------------------------------------- > > Subject: Bad news for sour, Flanders beer lovers > Date: 22 Jan 2000 13:29:01 GMT > From: frumm at aol.com (Frumm) > Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com > Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing > > I just returned from Flanders a few days ago and am extremely saddened by > recent steps taken by Rodenbach's new parent company PALM. I thought I'd > e-mail you since I believe these changes affect some of the world's most > intesting beers. > First off, PALM has discontinued Rodenbach Alexander since it strangely > believes it will compete with Boon Kriek (which they now own 50% of). They > have also changed the classic drastically, affecting not only sourness but > body and color as well. Worst of all perhaps is that they have put the > Grand Cru on a "trial" status for one year. It's hard to believe that this > beer will live up to PALM's commercial expectations. > In addition, PALM has sent letters to both breweries that have in the past > received yeast from the Rodenbach brewery. These include De Dolle Brouwers > in Essen and another brewery I'm not so familiar with called De Prouf(?). > After spending a day with Chris at De Dolle on Sunday it appears that both > Oerbier and Stille Nacht are destined for the history books. > I am alerting as many American brewers as I can in hopes that at the very > least we can change PALM's position on De Dolle. > In my opinion this is a very sad day for fans of distinctive beers worldwide > and I only wish public outcry could be of some use. > > Sincerely > > Daniel Paquette > Head Brewer > North East Brewing Company > Boston, MA > 617.441.2568 (home) > or "frumm at aol.com" - --------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:00:55 +0000 From: William Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net> Subject: OG Sample Chiller Biergiek wrote "This baby (wort chiller) is going to send the refractometer to the museum". Hey Biergiek - I brew in a museum called the Briarpatch. You still can't beat a 10 second SG reading with a refractometer. Bill Frazier Olathe, Kansas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:40:35 -0000 From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk> Subject: Soured Guinness Hi all, Just a comment to say that AFAIK its only the Guinness Foreign extra stout thats deliberately soured. Hidden away at the back of the St James Gate brewery (Well away from the public on the 'tour') are a couple of wooden storage vats for extended ageing / souring of stout. Apparently 3% of this is added to the Foreign extra, before bottling. Of course there are dozens of different Guinness breweries throughout the world, and they don't always produce and sell the same beer by the same name. - -- Wassail! The Scurrilous Aleman Schwarzbad Lager Braueri, Blackpool, Lancs, UK Reply To Aleman At brewmaster Dot demon Dot co Dot uk Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 07:01:16 -0600 From: "MAS, JOHN C. [FND/1820]" <john.c.mas at chi.monsanto.com> Subject: 5 yr old homebrew found In cleaning out my basement, I found about 9 bottles from my first batch of homebrew. Will it still be drinkable?? I know you should age your beer, but will 5 years drastically diminish the taste?? I'm sure I should just taste it and see, but anyone have any comments?? Thanks! John Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:44:33 -0500 From: Julio Canseco <jcanseco at arches.uga.edu> Subject: Jethro's new brewester! Congratulations to the Gumps on their new addition to the clan. Now....is that Katherine Elizabeth Gump? (KEG?). Most creative!...... I must say.... I raise a pint to .......Keggie? Most respectfully....... Julio in Athens, Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:03:04 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Bottling question "Trevor Good" <t.good at printwest.com> writes: >I have recently finished my first lager. Is has been in the fridge for 10 >weeks at 34F. I am wondering if the yeast will come back to carbonate the >beer. How do I go about doing this? I never had any trouble back when I bottled lagers (and I'm going to be bottling some shortly again). I always made sure to pick up just a little extra yeast when I was racking to my priming bucket. Not a lot, though. Then prime and bottle as usual. Don't forget to take into account that you'll have a lot more dissolved CO2 in that very cold beer than in a cellar temp. ale. There are charts to show saturation levels at given temps. you'll have to fudge just a little since you'll probably knock some out with the racking and stirring in of the priming sugar. Then allow two weeks or so at cellar temps to carbonate and sample. If you can store all the carbonated bottles cold, that is best. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:20:16 -0500 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Yeast starter aeration Dana H. Edgell asks about aerating yeast w/ an aquarium pump... >I would like to use an aquarium pump to continuously aerate a yeast starter >and would appreciate some advice from others who have done so... Dana, I have never tried making starters w/ pump aeration so I will leave that to others to comment on. I will propose an alternative method that you may wish to think about - using a magnetic stir plate. This is the way I make most of my yeast starters. It couldn't be simpler, works great and seems to avoid some of the complications of using a pump such as the ones you ask about (need for sterile tubing, need for filtration of the air, keeping yeast in suspension, etc..) While a brand new stirrer can be somewhat expensive, if you are crafty (or someone you know is) you can cobble together a stirrer pretty cheaply from old fan motors and radio shack parts. Used stirrers are out there too, especially on the net. Feel free to e-mail me if you want more details... -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:10:41 -0600 From: Mark Rogerson <arkmay at flash.net> Subject: Arizona Micro Malting Has anybody out there had any experience with malt from Arizona Micro Malting (http://www.arizonamicromalting.com/)? They liken their "two-row Harrington pale brewers malt" to well-modified British malt. Are there any non-biased opinions (or facts, for that matter) out there? - -- Mark Rogerson, HMFIC Randy Stoat Femtobrewery Houston, Texas, U! S! A! http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/ Minister of Propaganda Kuykendahl Gran Brewers Houston, Texas, U! S! A! http://www.TheKGB.org/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:56:29 -0500 (EST) From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo at comic.com> Subject: Initial Boil Scum I prefer to skim off the initial boil scum. It is the basic cause of boilovers. If I skim off enough of it, I basically no longer have to worry about a boilover if I have to leave the room. John DeCarlo, My Views Are My Own jdecarlo at comic.com ______________________________________________ FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:58:18 -0500 (EST) From: Timothy Holland - Supply Program Manager <tholland at tunnel.East.Sun.COM> Subject: Boston Homebrew Competition & MCAB III Qualificaiton Fellow Beer Enthusiasts, The Boston Wort Processors are again pleased to announce the Sixth Annual BOSTON HOMEBREW COMPETITION to be held on February 19, 2000 in Boston Mass. This competition is sponsored by and run by the Boston Wort Processors and ALL BJCP categories are will be judged including ciders and meads. The entry deadline has been set as February 12, 2000 and all entries must be received at the respective drop-off sites or ship-to site by this date (see www.wort.org for details). This competition will again be the northeast region Qualifying Event for the 3rd year of the Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing (MCAB) that has been discussed frequently on HBD. This competition is your early chance to qualify for the MCAB finals in the year 2000! Please be sure to check out our website (www.wort.org) to see the MCAB III Qualifying Styles since they are not yet listed on the official MCAB website (www.hbd.org/mcab). This competition is also the second of five competitions in the New England Homebrewer of the Year series (NEHBOTY). We draw many Master and National rank BJCP judges to this competition each year and promise a professionally run competition with feedback for all entries! All of the information anyone needs to enter the competition or to judge in the competition can be found at http://www.wort.org, including entry forms, bottle labels, judge registration forms, dropoff and mail-to info, etc. If you need any information please refer to the website. For those of you who don't have web access or have additional questions please feel free to call or e-mail me directly (Tim Holland, tim.holland at east.sun.com) with your e-mail and snail-mail addresses and I will get you the required information ASAP. Thanks, Good Luck and Happy Brewing!! Tim Holland 2000 Boston Homebrew Competition Organizer tim.holland at east.sun.com 781-442-2022 (w), 508-835-2686 (h) http://www.wort.org <=== See this site for all details!!! *** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:42:43 -0500 (EST) From: Paul Shick <SHICK at JCVAXA.jcu.edu> Subject: Filter answer and question Hello all, DeVaux Gauger asks about water filters for removing chlorine. DeVaux, almost any activated carbon filter will remove 95-99% of chlorine (and chloramines,) if you keep the flow within the range given on the filter. If you're setting up a basement system, I'd suggest a cannister filter. They're often listed as "below sink" or "whole house" filters, available for about $10-15 from Sears, among others. The filter elements vary considerably in price, from about $6 for standard carbon and fiber on up. The basic carbon and fiber element is rated to remove 95-99% of chlorine and chloramines at a nice flow rate (about 2 gallons per minute, as I recall.) You might want to disasemble the filter after each use, to avoid bacterial growth. For those with more experience than I with these filters, I have a quick question. The instructions (for all the brands I've seen) specify that one should not run hot water through the filter, although this is usually paired with a suggestion not to run any contaminated water through it. Is this just to avoid bacterial problems, or does activated charcoal have problems at higher temperatures? In particular, would 120-130F water from the hot water tank be less likely to be dechlorinated? Would it pick up off flavors from the filter? I'm asking because my tap water is finally down to near 50F (good for chilling,) and it takes a lot longer to get 8 gallons up to mash temperature. It's nice to mash in 25 minutes after starting the burner, rather than 50. Thanks in advance. Paul Shick Basement brewing in Cleveland Hts OH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:51:54 -0500 From: "A.J. Zanyk" <ajphoto at columbus.rr.com> Subject: Faking a Decoction A member of my Homebrew club and I have a recipe for a MaiBock that was double decocted. A local brewpub has offered to brew the beer as a guest beer. The problem is that they can only do a single infusion mash and much of the beers character comes from the decoctions. What would you add to a 5 gallon recipe to at least mimic the effects of the decoctions? I'm thinking perhaps of adding .25# of belgian aromatic and .25# of Melanoidin malt. Any other ideas? AJ (Zanyk) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:13:24 -0500 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: more on mag stirrers re: magnetic stirrers. I just did a search on E-bay and they currently have three auctions going all $20 or less (for now anyway...) -Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:20:35 -0600 (CST) From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: Burst Sparging For what it's worth, I started doing "burst sparging" several months ago. I mentally refer to it as "modified batch sparging" but could just as easily call it "modified fly sparging." ;-) Also FWIW my one and only motivation for doing it has nothing to do with increased effificiency, but can be put down to sheer laziness-- it just takes less attention. I haven't seen a significant change in efficiency, wort character, etc. - -- Joel Plutchak <plutchak at uiuc.edu> Bursting Big in East-central Illinois Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:21:22 -0500 From: "George de Piro" <gdepiro at mindspring.com> Subject: Best of Brooklyn Homebrew Competition Hi all, Just a quick note to announce the third annual ***BEST OF BROOKLYN HOMEBREW COMPETITION*** The *Malted Barley Appreciation Society* and *Brooklyn Brewery* are once again joining forces to bring you one heck of a homebrew contest! The event will be held on Sat., Feb. 26, 2000 at the Brooklyn Brewery (79 North 11th Street in Brooklyn, NY). Entries must be received by Friday, Feb. 18. The Best of Show prize this year is a custom-made Brooklyn Brewery leather jacket (valued at $400!). Aside from the standard BJCP categories, there is our unique "First time entrants" category and Experimental category which encourages the entry of historical recreations. Check out our website at http://hbd.org/mbas/bob2000.html for details! We need judges and stewards!!! You can register electronically at the above website or contact me for more info!Good luck and have fun! George de Piro C.H. Evans Brewing Company at the Albany Pump Station (518)447-9000 http://evansale.com (under construction) Malted Barley Appreciation Society Homebrew Club http://hbd.org/mbas Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:33:38 -0500 From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Germany Beer Tour Hi all, With plane fare to Europe in the $250-350 range, its just too cheap not to go while I have the chance. I have a week, a car, and 2 friends to Brewery hop. (pun intended) The Preliminary Route is to fly into Frankfurt 1 April, drive to a friends in Stutgartt, then to Munich, Budvar, Prauge, Pilsen, long trip to Dortmund (via Berlin?), Dusseldorf, Koln, and back to Frankfurt to fly home 8 April. That is the general Idea. Aggressive--yes! But alot of fun too! One of us has been to Germany and speaks some german, but he didn't really go on a "beer tour" when he was there. So What I am asking for are specific places to visit in each of the locations. Addresses, Directions, Contact people, phone #s and the like. Has anyone collected this kind of info before? (other than Michael Jackson?) I get thirsty just thinking about it. Eckard Witte--Where in Koln do I find good Koelsch? After I leave Zum Urgie where is my next Alt stop? Dr. Pivo--Where do I go in Prauge? There are a bazillion places to go in Munich. Anyone care to rank them? Gleefully yours, Phil Wilcox Pheilgiftefroche home brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:03:48 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Beer Color (SRM to RGB?) AJ, Thank you for your excellent exposition on beer color. However, as a former computer graphics researcher, I'd like to point out that the transformation from the tristiumuls values xyY to RGB is not "fixed" as you imply. Or rather, it is very unlikely that, in general, the color thus obtained will be correct for an arbitrary computer display. The commonly quoted transformation between RGB and xyY depends on having a properly calibrated monitor. Almost nobody's monitor is properly calibrated. A simple touch to the brightness or contrast controls is sufficient to decalibrate it. If it was calibrated yesterday, it is almost certainly not still in calibration today. Furthermore, the mapping from RGB values to brightness is, on most monitors, non-linear. Unless your monitor or operating system incorporates "gamma correction" a doubling of RGB values will cause the brightness to increase by a factor of about 4.6. So, without gamma correction, even with a properly calibrated monitor, the RGB values that are calculated by linear transformation from the tristimulus values will not give the correct color on the screen. (I will note in passing that the only computer that routinely provides gamma correction is the Macintosh. Is it a coincidence that many graphics professionals still use Macs? Probably not.) I won't even touch on the problems of mapping on-screen colors to colors printed on paper, on the differing color perception of reflected (from paper) versus transmitted (through beer) versus emitted (from your computer screen) colors; the effects of ambient illumination on color perception; and so on. Suffice it to say that a file of RGB values is unlikely to get you any closer to your beer color than the descriptions commonly found in homebrew books. And those same RGB values are going to look different on my computer than the do on yours. And forget trying to print them out! =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:06:47 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Temp of pH measurements Brewsters: Congrats to Rob ( Jethro) Moline on his recent new Brewster! Thanks for the info on Lallemand. - ---------------- Kyle asks about which temperature we are talking about for measuring pH. pH is temprature dependent. We have discussed this here in the past and I believe M&BS ( and DeClerk?) says make the measurement at room temperature. This would make some sense as temperature compensating probes were not really available until fairly recently. I suggest you do this for paper pH strips as I don't know what would happen to these, and I have read somewhere ( probably on the bottle) that these are to be used at 20C. - ---------------------- A.J when you get back I'd like the opportunity to more completely understand your points on using spectrophotometric color measurement of beer. Do you have some other stuff written? Don't the lighter beers remind you of Corona? They did to me. Same cane taste. Also try some "cane" distilled liquor if you haven't already. Have you been in any sugar storage warehouses? They are awesomely huge as is the taste of raw sugar ( illegal in the US). - --------------------- DeVeaux Gauger asks about water treatment systems. I would start with your home water, but RO is the best in my opinon as it gets a carbon filtration as well as purified of all ions. RO is especially desirable with a well, but be sure you decarbonate the RO water by pouring it through the air or bubbling in air or heating it. - --------------------- Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:34:42 -0600 From: Joe Gibbens <jgibbens at umr.edu> Subject: Boulevard Stout Hello all, Does anyone have a recipe for Boulevard Stout? I just discovered it recently and have been trying To get my hands on an all grain recipe for it. Thanks. Joe Gibbens Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:40:16 -0800 From: "Evans, Timothy" <TbEvans at OMM.com> Subject: false bottom I'd like to fashion (or buy) and a copper manifold type thing to use in my mash tun rather than a false bottom. I currently mash in a 10 gal Rubbermaid cooler. Is this something that I can easily make (i.e., no welding)? You can assume I have very limited mechanical abilities. If so, could someone kindly e-mail me with basic directions? If not easily made, is there anyone out there who'd be willing to make one for me. I'd obviously be happy to pay for the same. Off-list responses are probably appropriate. Thanks in advance. Tim Evans Los Angeles, California 90071 email: tbevans at omm.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:33:15 +0800 From: "Paul Campbell" <p.r.campbell at tesco.net> Subject: RE: thermowells Brian got a lot of responses after his question in HBD #3229: No-one mentioned filling the well with heat-sink compound (available from electronic shops and no-doubt via mail-order). I would think that this would improve thermal conduction just as well (sic) in this application as it would in its intended..... Paul, Edzell Scotland. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:41:34 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Body and mouthfeel Brewsters: Paul Smith provided some information on mouthfeel that I think we both agree on, but I must admit when I finished reading his note, I couldn't tell if he was saying that he believes dextrins are implicated in mouthfeel or not. If he was saying they do have a positive major effect, the argument certainly was not convincing I was puzzled by Table 23.8 which Paul commented on since it somehow links OG, isoamyl alcohol, 2-methyl butanol, total carbohydrate and dextrins under "flavour terms" called Body, Estery, Fruity and Viscous. If I read it the way he did that dextrins were related to viscosity I would have to believe that the table authors meant that iso-amy alcohol corresponds to body, 2-methyl butanol to estery and total carbohydrate to fruity... I don't think so. I really can't understand the table, but I think Paul's interpretation is incorrect, if I understood what he meant. Without reading the paper, I doubt if a good understanding of the table can be made. It certainly can't be used to make a point as Paul apparently tried to do. Also, this table has no comment on beta glucans and proteinaceous compounds at all, which is what M&BS says quite clearly relates to a full mouthfeel in the quote I provided. I recall reading, perhaps in the old M&BS or DeClerk that dextrins are definitely not implicated in mouthfeel based on an experiment to test the theory. This is consistent with the M&BS quote I provided. I just can't locate it. Dextrins are typically not that high molecular weight to have a real impact on viscosity except at high levels and as M&BS says there is not enough work to demonstrate a correspondence of viscosity with anything I suspect dextrins will be around 30 or so sucrose units at the maximum if they have been exposed to alpha amylase for a reasonable period of time in the absence of beta amylase. These do not fall into the class of macromolecules which M&BS says is necessary ( or at least how I interpret their statement) to impart a full mouth or high body. Paul also states that with highly modified modern malts for some reason no proteolysis takes place in the mash. Page 270 vol 1 M&BS says: "More recent experiments indicate that previously the estimate of proteolysis during mashing has been under estimated. Revised estimates indicate that in infusion mashes proteolysis accounts for the formation of half of the TSN (total soluble nitrogen -DRB) and half of the amino nitrogen found in the wort" I point out that British malts have always been highly modified. So Paul's ( and others in the past) implication that somehow we cannot effect proteolysis in the mash because the malts are already highly modified is incorrect. Page 270 op cit says: "The formation of soluble nitrogenous substrates in mashing is due to the comparitively heat stable with carboxy peptidases........ The presence of large quantities high-molecular weight material, reflecting < inadequate proteolysis in the mash >, may contribute to haze formation in the beer" Page 269 op cit says: "The calorific food value of beer is principally due to the ethanol and unfermented carbohydrates, but it is doubtful whether the latter contribute to any other beer character, although glycoproteins may act as foam stabilizers." I find no evidence that dextrins contribute to mouth fullness. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:15:40 -0700 (MST) From: stealth at aztec.asu.edu (BOB STARK) Subject: Cave Creek Chili beer Living just down the road from Cave Creek Brewery I thought I'd give them a call. Just got off the phone with one of the brewers there. They still brew on premises and do use saranno peppers. The reason no-one can find Cave Creek Beer is that they have gone through a few name changes. Cave Creek Brewery -> Chili Beer brewery -> to the present day Black Mountain Brewery. Those are the ones I know of (don't shoot if there are others). He also said that they still distribute across the US. So if you see a black mountain chili beer it is the good ole cave creek chili beer under a new name. No affiliation other then I happen to brew within a few miles of them and have enjoyed some of their offerings. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:20:17 EST From: WayneM38 at aol.com Subject: Extraction rates On :Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 08:50:34 EST Biergiek at aol.com writes: Subject: extraction rates >Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 23:21:22 EST >From: WayneM38 at aol.com >Subject: AKA Burst Sparging >I can bump up my system efficiency, as measured by Promash >up to 92% <> Kyle: Yes, consider it 'brewhouse efficiency'. That is; 92% of the theoretical extract of 1.036 for domestic 2 row pale malt giving me 32pts. + per lb. of malt. This is based on the measure of the OG of the final volume of cooled wort before pitching. Big Fun Brewing has calibrated sight glasses on the HLT and Brew Kettle and volume markers on the 5 and 6 gallon fermenters. The system losses are measured to keep the efficiency numbers 'based in reality'. These system parameters are dialed in ProMash and my recipes are repeatable within a point or two if the exact same ingredients are use. Download the trial version of ProMash and run the numbers of three or your favorite recipes to get an idea of your brewhouse numbers. The malt type/crush makes a measurable difference. Imported DWC malts are plumper and are a good match for my MaltMill. Domestic 6 row with same system, mash schedule and Malt Mill, drops my brewhouse efficiency to 85%. Did a CAP this summer with 6 row and 24% flaked corn and it came in at 82%. In the past, I would fret over those numbers, but now as long as the beer is good and the recipes are repeatable, I am happy. Wayne Botanist Brewer <A HREF="http://member.aol.com/bfbrewing/BigFunBrewing.htm">Big Fun Brewing RIMS Homepage</A> http://member.aol.com/bfbrewing/BigFunBrewing.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:32:53 -0600 From: "John Lifer, jr" <jliferjr at misnet.com> Subject: Tropical Beers AJ de Lange wrote about tropical Guiness from Mauritius. I was over in Indonesia a couple of years ago and they had just about the same thing, nearly export Guiness, the only problem I had was that at about 85 degrees F, it was pretty bad. The only other choice was Bintang, which was locally made Heineken (or a reasonable facimile) Usually about the same temp. The locals would bring you a glass of ice (if you were stupid you would use the local ice) but Hot was just fine by me. I didn't need any more inhabitants in my gut than I normally keep! John Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:53:21 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Re: self-priming pumps Ray: I suspected you knew about suction head and hot liquids, but it's good info for the newbie lurkers. I guess you're trying to get one pump that can do two jobs. I've been wanting to get a pump to do exactly the same job as you have in mind, to eliminate the need for tiering the fermenters. It's rough on the back and there isn't always room on the upper level. What I've been looking for is a peristaltic pump, ideally with a variable-speed drive. Unfortunately, they're marketed at people who are spending someone else's money so they're not cheap. If you find two good ones on the surplus market, save me one! Sean Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 01/25/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96