---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  alternative St Paddy's brew (Jeff Renner)
  Overnight mashing ("Randy Billmeier")
  MCAB II ("Mike Fitzpatrick")
  Stuck fermentation... Not! ("Randy Hall")
  Saflager yeast ("Mike Pensinger")
  wyeast kolsch 2565 off-flavor ("Dan and Kim Lyga")
  Mill competition solved! (AlannnnT)
  Bottling with coffee flavors (DawgDoctor)
  Brewing/Sparge Water pH Adjustment (Dennis Himmeroeder)
  Chili Beer (VQuante)
  Stuck Easy Masher.... (DawgDoctor)
  Efficiency using 1 step decoction (DawgDoctor)
  Ginger Beer ("Harry & Kat")
  thermowells (Susan/Bill Freeman)
  Re: Bad news for sour, Flanders beer lovers (Mike Uchima)
  OG Sample Chiller (William Frazier)
  Soured Guinness (Tony Barnsley)
  5 yr old homebrew found ("MAS, JOHN C. [FND/1820]")
  Jethro's new brewester! (Julio Canseco)
  Re: Bottling question (Jeff Renner)
  Yeast starter aeration ("Alan Meeker")
  Arizona Micro Malting (Mark Rogerson)
  Initial Boil Scum (John DeCarlo)
  Boston Homebrew Competition & MCAB III Qualificaiton (Timothy Holland - Supply Program Manager)
  Filter answer and question (Paul Shick)
  Faking a Decoction ("A.J. Zanyk")
  more on mag stirrers ("Alan Meeker")
  Re: Burst Sparging (Joel Plutchak)
  Best of Brooklyn Homebrew Competition ("George de Piro")
  Germany Beer Tour ("Philip J Wilcox")
  Re: Beer Color (SRM to RGB?) (Spencer W Thomas)
  Temp of pH measurements (Dave Burley)
  Boulevard Stout (Joe Gibbens)
  false bottom ("Evans, Timothy")
  RE: thermowells ("Paul Campbell")
  Body and mouthfeel (Dave Burley)
  Cave Creek Chili beer (BOB STARK)
  Extraction rates (WayneM38)
  Tropical Beers ("John Lifer, jr")
  Re: self-priming pumps ("Sean Richens")


* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!

* Entry deadline for the Mayfare Homebrew Competition is 3/15/00 
* See http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information

Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
  "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
  ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
  the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address
  for the automation - that's your job.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright 
  HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK 
  before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content 
  cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to 
req at hbd.org.

JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 15:09:18 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: alternative St Paddy's brew

"FLEMING, JOE" <JOE.FLEMING at spcorp.com> wrote

>Boy, all this stout talk -- you can tell its a fermentation away
>from St. Patty's day!

OTOH, let me suggest an alternative I suggest every few years,
Irish-American Red Ale.  Here is my post from several years ago.  I've
received good feedback from happy brewers.  Feel free to substitute
ingredients or modify procedure, of course.    I do think I'd just do a
single step mash for simplicity's sake.  Let me know how it turns out if
you do brew it.

 -=-=-=-=-=-=-

It's about time to think about brewing a beer for a St. Paddy's Day party.
How about something different from the usual stout or green beer, something
with an American touch?  I've made an Irish-American ale that I figure is
similar to what was served in Irish neighborhood taverns in the Northeast
100 years ago, although I have no proof.  Maybe like McSorley's?  It's sort
of a red ale with corn, flaked barley, medium crystal and a touch of
chocolate.  It's a little stronger than a British session beer,  a little
less than typical US beers (due to higher FG), and certainly less strong
than the authentic ales of a century ago, but they didn't have to drive
home then.  This is popular with Killian's drinkers as well as real ale
fans as it has enough interest to hold them.  Resist the temptation to up
the bitterness as it is inappropriate in this style.

McGinty's Irish-American Ale
5.25 gallons  at  1.044

5.5 lbs 6-row (US 2-row should work, too)
1.75 lbs flaked maize
 .75 lbs flaked barley
0.5 lbs crystal 30L
2 oz. chocolate

Mash 154F 60 minutes.  Actually, though, I did a 40/60/70C mash (30 minutes
at each step) adding the corn at 60C.  The 40C rest may have helped break
down beta-glucans in the barley, and passing from 40 to 60 over 30 minutes
or so effectively gave me a protein rest, which may have made the beer
clearer.  Irish moss might not hurt.

Bittering hops - Cluster (I used 3/4 oz for 19 IBU)
Finishing hops - Golding (Domestic would be fine) (I used 1/2 oz for 15
min. for 4 IBU and another 1/2 oz at knockout) (FWH might be nice here)
Target 23 IBU

Irish Ale yeast YeastLab A05

OG 1.044
FG 1.015

Jeff

 -=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. 




Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 21 Jan 2000 18:38:23 -0500
From: "Randy Billmeier" <randallb at maine.rr.com>
Subject: Overnight mashing

Does anyone know of any problems with mashing while you sleep?  It sure
saves on the length of the brew day.  What problems might occur if the mash
is left for 6 - 8 hours?

Thanks,

Randy Billmeier
randallb at maine.rr.com




Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 15:29:22 -0600
From: "Mike Fitzpatrick" <fitzbrew at earthlink.net>
Subject: MCAB II

While all the details have not been posted yet, you can find general
information on MCAB II at the following website-
http://www.stlbrews.org/events/mcab.asp  Updates will be posted here as soon
as things are finalized, but you can expect to find presentations by
recognized brewing authorities such as George Fix, A tour of the A.B. pilot
plant geared toward the technical aspect of brewing, a pub crawl, and more.
Bookmark the above site to keep informed!

   Thanks,
    Mike Fitzpatrick
    V.P.  St. Louis Brews



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 13:56:47 -0800
From: "Randy Hall" <randy_hall at earthling.net>
Subject: Stuck fermentation... Not!

List:

I had a most amazing thing happen to me moments ago: I found out that the
beer I have in my carboy is going to ferment after all!

Perhaps a little background is in order.

Since I'm still a novice to this hobby, I've been experimenting with malt
extract syrups and pre-hopped malt extracts. I also decided that, as my
second brew, I would try steeping a bag of 60L Crystal malt in the boil to
at least make it more interesting. So, I believe I had followed all the
directions and put the wort into my primary to get started. I shook and
shook it as many homebrew novices would. The wort was still a little warm
(high 80's), but I was anxious and pitched at that higher temperature.

I was mortified by the results. The yeast almost immediately sank to the
bottom and it looked like my beer was going to go nowhere. That was this
last Saturday (1/15/00). The next morning, there was a one-inch thick layer
of sediment at the bottom, and it appeared hopeless. None of the books or
websites told of such things happening, so I feared the worst: my beer was
ruined and would never ferment.

I checked it each day until Thursday, getting more depressed each time. On
two occasions, I nearly decided to pop the airlock and ditch the failed
brew. After Thursday, I didn't bother checking anymore. There was no change
from day to day, and by now there had to be something wrong.

Fast forward to 20 minutes ago...

Imagine my surprise when I walk in and see that it's krauesening and the
airlock is bubbling furiously and beer-making seems to be commencing
normally. I'm both thrilled and troubled, as I have no idea if the beer will
be any good after sitting so long without fermentation going full steam...

So here's the question to the list:

Is a 5-6 day waiting period normal for primary fermentation to begin?

I'll keep the list posted as to the result, as I'm sure you all care
enormously ;)

Cheers,

Randy



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 20:55:56 -0500
From: "Mike Pensinger" <Beerlvr at hrfn.net>
Subject: Saflager yeast

I have heard about the Safale yeast and the fact that it tolerates higher
temps without odd off flavors.  Is the Saflager the same way and if so what
are its temp ranges.  Is there a place to find specs on it?

Mike Pensinger
beerlvr at hrfn.net



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 21:27:19 -0500
From: "Dan and Kim Lyga" <lygas at snet.net>
Subject: wyeast kolsch 2565 off-flavor

Hello.

I was wondering if any has encountered any off flavors when
using Wyeast kolsch 2565.  When I racked the beer into the
secondary, and even after tasting the beer a week after bottling, it
had a distinctive mineral, almost medicinal, taste that seems to
linger.  I fermented in the mid-to-upper 60s and did not notice any
obvious quirks.

I am very new to homebrewing - 1 extract and this is my second all grain
recipe - so, it is quite possible that there is a problem in my process.
Although my first all-grain, a brown ale, came out quite well.  Thanks in
advance for any advice...

Dan Lyga
Harwinton, CT



Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 21:52:37 EST
From: AlannnnT at aol.com
Subject: Mill competition solved!

Hi Y'all,

I've found a solution to the problem of which Mill should I buy/which mill is 
best/which mill doesn't charge a handling fee. 

I use a JSP Malt Mill (tm) for pale and pilsner malts. It's an adjustable 
one, but if I had to do it again, I would go with the standard mill. It's way 
faster than the Phil Mill, so twenty to thirty pounds or grain are no big 
deal to crush.   

For high kilned, dark and roasted grains, I use a Phil's (Phabulous) 
PhilMill. This way, I don't get little dark pieces of roasted barley mixed in 
with my German lager malt. I can adjust it to just barely crack the brittle 
dark grains. 

I've never seen a Valley Mill, so I don't feel like I'm letting anyone down. 

Is that politicaly correct or what? 
I've mounted both mills permanently to a unit of commercial steel shelving. 
It's sort of a grain mill 'station'. The JSP mounts on top of a shelf. The 
shelf has a slot cut in it. The ground grain falls through the slot into the 
bucket below. I like it because it is very rigid, and makes very little mess. 

The Phils Mill mounts on a curved steel arm which is bolted the the side of 
the shelving unit. The crushed grains fall into a smaller catch bucket. Both 
mills have an extended homemade hopper.  

Oh, and my old Corona Mill? I sold it really cheap to an extract brewer who 
did not have a lot of money to spend. 

(I've been thinking of taking the couple of bucks I got for the Corona and 
sending it to the Meeker defense fund.) 

Best Brewing, 
Alan Talman


Return to table of contents


Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 22:15:09 EST
From: DawgDoctor at aol.com
Subject: Bottling with coffee flavors

Primed a few bottles of stout two weeks ago with 3/4 tbsp. of flavored coffee 
syrups.  Had the first one tonight and it tastes pretty darn good.  The 
carbonation is much coarser than the carbonation from corn sugar, it is kind 
of like bottling with brown sugar or molasses.  Doesn't have the nice fine 
creamy head that the corn sugar bottles have either.  The hazlenut flavor and 
aroma is dominant.  Wouldn't reccommend doing an entire batch, but try a few 
bottles next time you brew a stout.
Todd in NC


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 00:55:05 -0500
From: Dennis Himmeroeder <dennish at palmnet.net>
Subject: Brewing/Sparge Water pH Adjustment

I'm getting ready to brew  5 gallons of an all grain Bohemian Style
Pilsner and need to know a little more about how to adjust my Brewing
and Sparge Water pH.  I'm planning on using distilled water as my base.
I also have some Phosphoric Acid from St. Pat's that's 21% strength.
Also what is the best way to accurately measure small doses of the acid.

Thanks,
Dennis in FL



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 11:35:05 EST
From: VQuante at aol.com
Subject: Chili Beer

>  I am looking for a beer that I can't find anymore,
>  haven't seen in four years, and can't remember
>  the name of the brew.

Yes, I DO KNOW it's a little late, but I try to catch up.

I searched my data base and found, that this chili beer was
even sold in Germany - I drank it in april '95. Written on the
label it had the text:

"Crazy Ed's Original Cave Creek Chili Beer
Black Mountain Brewing Co. Inc."

and was brewed somewhere in Arizona. Its alcohol content
was 4,7% by volume.

Hey, I even found, that I have a thumbnail of its label, but -
sorry! - in awful quality. 6 kB, if anyone is interested...

Volker

Volker R. Quante
Brunnenbraeu Homebrewery

Brewing and working in Warsaw / Poland, but definitely a German Homebrewer


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:15:46 EST
From: DawgDoctor at aol.com
Subject: Stuck Easy Masher....

Anyone ever had problems with a stuck sparge using an Easy Masher?  This is 
my second try with the Gott Cooler version and second stuck sparge. I crushed 
with the JSP mill.  I collected my first 2 gallons at full flow, poured it 
back in to filter, collected a second 2 gallons of very clear wort at full 
flow, then suddenly, STUCK SPARGE.  Almost an hour later I managed to collect 
my 7 gallons.  I  ended up getting quite aggressive, racking the screen with 
a spoon, moving it around with the spoon ect. I'm very dissapointed, never 
had collected wort that clear before, just ended up getting cloudy again from 
all the stirring around. 

Todd in NC


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:16:04 EST
From: DawgDoctor at aol.com
Subject: Efficiency using 1 step decoction

8.75 # 2 row American Pale Ale Malt
2 oz Chocolate
2 oz 60 L Crystal

Doughed in using 24 oz per pound of malt using room temp water, allowed to 
stand for 30 min, then added 12 oz per pound of boiling water and boosted to 
95 F for 30 min (pH 5.38), then boiling water and external heat to 131 F for 
1 hour, decocted 0.5 quarts per pound of malt (about 5 quarts, held at 155 
for 10 min.) and boosted with external temp to 150 for 75 min.  Collected 7 
gallons after sparge at 1042.  Got a finishing gravity of 1051.  The clone 
brew book called for 1048 to 1051.  Never reached the gravity stated in a 
recipe until now.  My efficiency increased by 5 to 7 points, apparently due 
to the decoction. 
Would someone please enter my data into a program to calculate my efficiency? 
 Thanks

Todd in NC


Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 21:55:01 -0600
From: "Harry & Kat" <grb2980 at cyber-south.com>
Subject: Ginger Beer

My mother had a ginger beer in New Zealand about three years ago.  It was in
a bottle, not draft.  She can't remember the name of it or the brewery.  She
has asked me to recreate it.  Any information or ideas about this brew would
be helpful.

Harry Grier
Dothan Alabama
grb2980 at cyber-south.com



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 22:50:48 -0600
From: Susan/Bill Freeman <potsus at bellsouth.net>
Subject: thermowells

Thermowells are usually filled with a heat transfer gel that makes up
for some of the lag time in temp readings.  Regardless of what you do,
the readings will be somewhat slower on the uptake.  The prime reason
for thermowells is to protect the bimetal strips inside in the end of
the thermometer from bumps and dings as you stir.  If there is no chance
of these two things happening, then the thermometer will read more
quickly without the well.  The fact that the well is brass (although
most I have seen are stainless) has little to do with the heat transfer
which in the best of conditions is going to be a bit slower.  The other
reason for a well is to allow the removal of the thermometer without
creating a hole in the tank.

Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat  Birmingham, AL



Return to table of contents


Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2000 23:12:43 -0600
From: Mike Uchima <uchima at pobox.com>
Subject: Re: Bad news for sour, Flanders beer lovers

Fellow beer lovers --

The attached message was recently posted to rec.crafts.brewing; I
thought it would also be of interest to the HBD as well.  Dan has
indicated to me in private e-mail that he is trying to organize a
write-in campaign; I'll keep the digest updated with any further
information I get.

- -- 
== Mike Uchima == uchima at pobox.com ==

- ---------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Bad news for sour, Flanders beer lovers
> Date: 22 Jan 2000 13:29:01 GMT
> From: frumm at aol.com (Frumm)
> Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
> Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
> 
> I just returned from Flanders a few days ago and am extremely saddened by
> recent steps taken by Rodenbach's new parent company PALM.  I thought I'd
> e-mail you since I believe these changes affect some of the world's most
> intesting beers.
> First off, PALM has discontinued Rodenbach Alexander since it strangely
> believes it will compete with Boon Kriek (which they now own 50% of).  They
> have also changed the classic drastically, affecting not only sourness but 
> body and color as well.  Worst of all perhaps is that they have put the 
> Grand Cru on a "trial" status for one year.  It's hard to believe that this 
> beer will live up to PALM's commercial expectations.
> In addition, PALM has sent letters to both breweries that have in the past
> received yeast from the Rodenbach brewery.  These include De Dolle Brouwers
> in Essen and another brewery I'm not so familiar with called De Prouf(?).  
> After spending a day with Chris at De Dolle on Sunday it appears that both 
> Oerbier and Stille Nacht are destined for the history books.
> I am alerting as many American brewers as I can in hopes that at the very 
> least we can change PALM's position on De Dolle.
> In my opinion this is a very sad day for fans of distinctive beers worldwide
> and I only wish public outcry could be of some use.
> 
> Sincerely
> 
> Daniel Paquette
> Head Brewer
> North East Brewing Company
> Boston, MA
> 617.441.2568 (home)
> or "frumm at aol.com"
- ---------------------------------------------------------------



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 06:00:55 +0000
From: William Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: OG Sample Chiller

Biergiek wrote "This baby (wort chiller) is going to send the refractometer
to the museum".

Hey Biergiek - I brew in a museum called the Briarpatch.  You still can't
beat a 10 second SG reading with a refractometer.

        Bill Frazier
        Olathe, Kansas





Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:40:35 -0000
From: Tony Barnsley <tony.barnsley at blackpool.gov.uk>
Subject: Soured Guinness

Hi all,

Just a comment to say that AFAIK its only the Guinness Foreign extra stout
thats deliberately soured. Hidden away at the back of the St James Gate
brewery (Well away from the public on the 'tour') are a couple of wooden
storage vats for extended ageing / souring of stout. Apparently 3% of this
is added to the Foreign extra, before bottling. Of course there are dozens
of different Guinness breweries throughout the world, and they don't always
produce and sell the same beer by the same name.

- --

Wassail!

The Scurrilous Aleman
Schwarzbad Lager Braueri, Blackpool, Lancs, UK
Reply To Aleman At brewmaster Dot demon Dot co Dot uk


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 07:01:16 -0600
From: "MAS, JOHN C. [FND/1820]" <john.c.mas at chi.monsanto.com>
Subject: 5 yr old homebrew found

In cleaning out my basement, I found about 9 bottles from my first batch of
homebrew.  Will it still be drinkable??
I know you should age your beer, but will 5 years drastically diminish the
taste??

I'm sure I should just taste it and see, but anyone have any comments??

Thanks!
John



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 08:44:33 -0500
From: Julio Canseco <jcanseco at arches.uga.edu>
Subject: Jethro's new brewester!

Congratulations to the Gumps on their new addition to the clan.
Now....is that Katherine Elizabeth Gump? (KEG?). Most creative!...... I
must say....

I raise a pint to .......Keggie?

Most respectfully....... Julio   in Athens, Georgia



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:03:04 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Bottling question

"Trevor Good" <t.good at printwest.com> writes:

>I have recently finished my first lager. Is has been in the fridge for 10
>weeks at 34F. I am wondering if the yeast will come back to carbonate the
>beer. How do I go about doing this?

I never had any trouble back when I bottled lagers (and I'm going to be
bottling some shortly again).  I always made sure to pick up just a little
extra yeast when I was racking to my priming bucket.  Not a lot, though.
Then prime and bottle as usual.  Don't forget to take into account that
you'll have a lot more dissolved CO2 in that very cold beer than in a
cellar temp. ale.  There are charts to show saturation levels at given
temps.  you'll have to fudge just a little since you'll probably knock some
out with the racking and stirring in of the priming sugar.

Then allow two weeks or so at cellar temps to carbonate and sample.  If you
can store all the carbonated bottles cold, that is best.

Jeff

 -=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. 




Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:20:16 -0500
From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu>
Subject: Yeast starter aeration

Dana H. Edgell  asks about aerating yeast w/ an aquarium pump...

>I would like to use an aquarium pump to continuously aerate a yeast starter
>and would appreciate some advice from others who have done so...

Dana, I have never tried making starters w/ pump aeration so I will leave
that to others to comment on. I will propose an alternative method that you
may wish to think about - using a magnetic stir plate. This is the way I
make most of my yeast starters. It couldn't be simpler, works great and
seems to avoid some of the complications of using a pump such as the ones
you ask about (need for sterile tubing, need for filtration of the air,
keeping yeast in suspension, etc..) While a brand new stirrer can be
somewhat expensive, if you are crafty (or someone you know is) you can
cobble together a stirrer pretty cheaply from old fan motors and radio shack
parts. Used stirrers are out there too, especially on the net. Feel free to
e-mail me if you want more details...

 -Alan Meeker
 Baltimore, MD




Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 09:10:41 -0600
From: Mark Rogerson <arkmay at flash.net>
Subject: Arizona Micro Malting

Has anybody out there had any experience with malt from Arizona Micro
Malting (http://www.arizonamicromalting.com/)?  They liken their
"two-row Harrington pale brewers malt" to well-modified British malt.
Are there any non-biased opinions (or facts, for that matter) out
there?
- --
Mark Rogerson, HMFIC
Randy Stoat Femtobrewery
Houston, Texas, U! S! A!
http://www.flash.net/~arkmay/Mark/rsf_tour/

Minister of Propaganda
Kuykendahl Gran Brewers
Houston, Texas, U! S! A!
http://www.TheKGB.org/




Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:56:29 -0500 (EST)
From: John DeCarlo <jdecarlo at comic.com>
Subject: Initial Boil Scum

I prefer to skim off the initial boil scum.  It is the basic cause of
boilovers.

If I skim off enough of it, I basically no longer have to worry about a
boilover if I have to leave the room.

John DeCarlo, My Views Are My Own
jdecarlo at comic.com
______________________________________________
FREE Personalized Email at Mail.com
Sign up at http://www.mail.com?sr=mc.mk.mcm.tag001



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 10:58:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Timothy Holland - Supply Program Manager <tholland at tunnel.East.Sun.COM>
Subject: Boston Homebrew Competition & MCAB III Qualificaiton

Fellow Beer Enthusiasts,

The Boston Wort Processors are again pleased to announce the Sixth
Annual BOSTON HOMEBREW COMPETITION to be held on February 19, 2000 in
Boston Mass.  This competition is sponsored by and run by the Boston
Wort Processors and ALL BJCP categories are will be judged including
ciders and meads.  The entry deadline has been set as February 12,
2000 and all entries must be received  at  the respective drop-off sites
or ship-to site by this date (see www.wort.org for details).

This competition will again be the northeast region Qualifying Event
for the 3rd year of the Masters Championship of Amateur Brewing (MCAB)
that has been discussed frequently on HBD.  This competition is your
early chance to qualify for the MCAB finals in the year 2000!  Please
be sure to check out our website (www.wort.org) to see the MCAB III
Qualifying Styles since they are not yet listed on the official MCAB
website (www.hbd.org/mcab).  This competition is also the second of
five competitions in the New England Homebrewer of the Year series
(NEHBOTY).  We draw many Master and National rank BJCP judges to this
competition each year and promise a professionally run competition
with feedback for all entries!

All of the information anyone needs to enter the competition or to
judge in the competition can be found at http://www.wort.org,
including entry forms, bottle labels, judge registration forms,
dropoff and mail-to info, etc.  If you need any information please
refer to the website.  For those of you who don't have web access or
have additional questions please feel free to call or e-mail me
directly (Tim Holland, tim.holland at east.sun.com) with your e-mail and
snail-mail addresses and I will get you the required information ASAP.

Thanks, Good Luck and Happy Brewing!!

Tim Holland
2000 Boston Homebrew Competition Organizer 
tim.holland at east.sun.com
781-442-2022 (w), 508-835-2686 (h)
http://www.wort.org  <=== See this site for all details!!!  ***






Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:42:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Paul Shick <SHICK at JCVAXA.jcu.edu>
Subject: Filter answer and question

 


Hello all,

	DeVaux Gauger asks about water filters for removing
chlorine.  DeVaux, almost any activated carbon filter will
remove 95-99% of chlorine (and chloramines,) if you keep the
flow within the range given on the filter.  If you're setting
up a basement system, I'd suggest a cannister filter.  They're
often listed as "below sink" or "whole house" filters, available
for about $10-15 from Sears, among others.  The filter elements
vary considerably in price, from about $6 for standard carbon and
fiber on up.  The basic carbon and fiber element is rated to remove
95-99% of chlorine and chloramines at a nice flow rate (about 2
gallons per minute, as I recall.)  You might want to disasemble 
the filter after each use, to avoid bacterial growth.

	For those with more experience than I with these filters,
I have a quick question.  The instructions (for all the brands 
I've seen) specify that one should not run hot water through the 
filter, although this is usually paired with a suggestion not to run
any contaminated water through it.  Is this just to avoid bacterial
problems, or does activated charcoal have problems at higher temperatures?
In particular, would 120-130F water from the hot water tank be less
likely to be dechlorinated?  Would it pick up off flavors from the 
filter?  I'm asking because my tap water is finally down to near 50F
(good for chilling,) and it takes a lot longer to get 8 gallons up to
mash temperature.  It's nice to mash in 25 minutes after starting the
burner, rather than 50.  Thanks in advance.

   			Paul Shick 
 			Basement brewing in Cleveland Hts OH

 



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:51:54 -0500
From: "A.J. Zanyk" <ajphoto at columbus.rr.com>
Subject: Faking a Decoction

   A member of my Homebrew club and I have a recipe for a MaiBock
that was double decocted.  A local brewpub has offered to brew the beer
as a guest beer.  The problem is that they can only do a single infusion
mash and much of the beers character comes from the decoctions.  What
would you add to a 5 gallon recipe to at least mimic the effects of the
decoctions?

    I'm thinking perhaps of adding .25# of belgian aromatic and .25# of
Melanoidin malt.  Any other ideas?

AJ (Zanyk)



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:13:24 -0500
From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu>
Subject: more on mag stirrers

re: magnetic stirrers. I just did a search on E-bay and they currently have
three auctions going all $20 or less (for now anyway...)

 -Alan





Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 11:20:35 -0600 (CST)
From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Re: Burst Sparging


   For what it's worth, I started doing "burst sparging" several
months ago.  I mentally refer to it as "modified batch sparging"
but could just as easily call it "modified fly sparging."  ;-)
   Also FWIW my one and only motivation for doing it has nothing
to do with increased effificiency, but can be put down to sheer
laziness-- it just takes less attention.  I haven't seen a
significant change in efficiency, wort character, etc.
- --
Joel Plutchak <plutchak at uiuc.edu>
Bursting Big in East-central Illinois



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:21:22 -0500
From: "George de Piro" <gdepiro at mindspring.com>
Subject: Best of Brooklyn Homebrew Competition

Hi all,

Just a quick note to announce the third annual

***BEST OF BROOKLYN HOMEBREW COMPETITION***

The *Malted Barley Appreciation Society* and *Brooklyn Brewery*
are once again joining forces to bring you one heck of a homebrew
contest! The event will be held on Sat., Feb. 26, 2000 at the
Brooklyn Brewery (79 North 11th Street in Brooklyn, NY).  Entries
must be received by Friday, Feb. 18.

The Best of Show prize this year is a custom-made Brooklyn Brewery leather
jacket (valued at $400!).

Aside from the standard BJCP categories, there is our unique "First
time entrants" category and Experimental category which encourages the
entry of historical recreations.

Check out our website at http://hbd.org/mbas/bob2000.html for details!

We need judges and stewards!!!  You can register electronically
at the above website or contact me for more info!Good luck and have fun!

George de Piro

C.H. Evans Brewing Company
at the Albany Pump Station
(518)447-9000
http://evansale.com (under construction)

Malted Barley Appreciation Society
Homebrew Club
http://hbd.org/mbas



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:33:38 -0500
From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com>
Subject: Germany Beer Tour

Hi all,

With plane fare to Europe in the $250-350 range, its just too cheap not to go
while I have the chance.
I have a week, a car, and 2 friends to Brewery hop. (pun intended) The
Preliminary Route is to fly into Frankfurt 1 April, drive to a friends in
Stutgartt, then to Munich, Budvar, Prauge, Pilsen, long trip to Dortmund (via
Berlin?), Dusseldorf, Koln, and back to Frankfurt to fly home 8 April.

That is the general Idea. Aggressive--yes! But alot of fun too!  One of us has
been to Germany and speaks some german, but he didn't really go on a "beer tour"
when he was there. So What I am asking for are specific places to visit in each
of the locations. Addresses, Directions, Contact people, phone #s and the like.
Has anyone collected this kind of info before? (other than Michael Jackson?) I
get thirsty just thinking about it.

Eckard Witte--Where in Koln do I find good Koelsch?
After I leave Zum Urgie where is my next Alt stop?
Dr. Pivo--Where do I go in Prauge?
There are a bazillion places to go in Munich. Anyone care to rank them?

Gleefully yours,

Phil Wilcox
Pheilgiftefroche home brewer




Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:03:48 -0500
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Beer Color (SRM to RGB?) 

AJ,

Thank you for your excellent exposition on beer color.  However, as a
former computer graphics researcher, I'd like to point out that the
transformation from the tristiumuls values xyY to RGB is not "fixed"
as you imply.  Or rather, it is very unlikely that, in general, the
color thus obtained will be correct for an arbitrary computer display.

The commonly quoted transformation between RGB and xyY depends on
having a properly calibrated monitor.  Almost nobody's monitor is
properly calibrated.  A simple touch to the brightness or contrast
controls is sufficient to decalibrate it.  If it was calibrated
yesterday, it is almost certainly not still in calibration today.

Furthermore, the mapping from RGB values to brightness is, on most
monitors, non-linear.  Unless your monitor or operating system
incorporates "gamma correction" a doubling of RGB values will cause
the brightness to increase by a factor of about 4.6.  So, without
gamma correction, even with a properly calibrated monitor, the RGB
values that are calculated by linear transformation from the
tristimulus values will not give the correct color on the screen.  (I
will note in passing that the only computer that routinely provides
gamma correction is the Macintosh.  Is it a coincidence that many
graphics professionals still use Macs?  Probably not.)

I won't even touch on the problems of mapping on-screen colors to
colors printed on paper, on the differing color perception of
reflected (from paper) versus transmitted (through beer) versus
emitted (from your computer screen) colors; the effects of ambient
illumination on color perception; and so on.

Suffice it to say that a file of RGB values is unlikely to get you any
closer to your beer color than the descriptions commonly found in
homebrew books.  And those same RGB values are going to look different
on my computer than the do on yours.  And forget trying to print them
out!

=Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI        (spencer at umich.edu)


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:06:47 -0500
From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com>
Subject: Temp of pH measurements

Brewsters:

Congrats to Rob ( Jethro) Moline on his
recent new Brewster! Thanks for the info
on  Lallemand.
- ----------------
Kyle asks about which temperature
we are talking about for measuring pH. 
pH is temprature dependent. We have
discussed this here in the past and I 
believe M&BS ( and DeClerk?) says make
the measurement at room temperature.
This would make some sense as
temperature compensating probes
were not really available until fairly recently.

I suggest you do this for paper pH strips
as I don't know what would happen to these,
and I have read somewhere ( probably on
the bottle)  that these are to be used at
20C.
- ----------------------
A.J when you get back I'd like the 
opportunity to more completely understand
your points on using spectrophotometric color
measurement of beer.  Do you have
some other stuff written?

Don't the lighter beers remind you of 
Corona? They did to me. Same cane taste.
Also try some "cane" distilled liquor if you
haven't already.

 Have you been in any sugar storage
warehouses? They are awesomely huge
as is the taste of raw sugar ( illegal in the US).
- ---------------------
DeVeaux Gauger asks about water 
treatment systems. I would start
with your home water, but RO is the
best in my opinon as it gets a carbon
filtration as well as purified of all ions.
RO is especially desirable with a well,
but be sure you decarbonate the RO
water by pouring it through the air or
bubbling in air or heating it.
- ---------------------

Keep on Brewin'

Dave Burley


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 13:34:42 -0600
From: Joe Gibbens <jgibbens at umr.edu>
Subject: Boulevard Stout

Hello all,

Does anyone have a recipe for Boulevard Stout?
I just discovered it recently and have been trying
To get my hands on an all grain recipe for it.
Thanks.

Joe Gibbens



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 12:40:16 -0800
From: "Evans, Timothy" <TbEvans at OMM.com>
Subject: false bottom

I'd like to fashion (or buy) and a copper manifold type thing to use in my
mash tun rather than a false bottom. I currently mash in a 10 gal Rubbermaid
cooler.  Is this something that I can easily make (i.e., no welding)?  You
can assume I have very limited mechanical abilities.   If so, could someone
kindly e-mail me with basic directions?  If not easily made, is there anyone
out there who'd be willing to make one for me.  I'd obviously be happy to
pay for the same.  

Off-list responses are probably appropriate.  Thanks in advance.

Tim Evans
Los Angeles, California 90071
email: tbevans at omm.com



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 21:33:15 +0800
From: "Paul Campbell" <p.r.campbell at tesco.net>
Subject: RE: thermowells

Brian got a lot of responses after his question in HBD #3229:

No-one mentioned filling the well with heat-sink compound (available from
electronic shops and no-doubt via mail-order). I would think that this would
improve thermal conduction just as well (sic) in this application as it
would in its intended.....

Paul,
Edzell
Scotland.




Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:41:34 -0500
From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com>
Subject: Body and mouthfeel

Brewsters:

Paul Smith provided some information on
mouthfeel that I think we both agree on, but
I must admit when I finished reading his
note, I couldn't tell if he was saying that
he believes dextrins are implicated in
mouthfeel or not. If he was saying 
they do have a positive major effect,
the argument certainly was not convincing

I was puzzled by Table 23.8 which Paul
commented on since it somehow links
OG, isoamyl alcohol, 2-methyl butanol,
total carbohydrate and dextrins under
"flavour terms" called Body, Estery,
Fruity and Viscous. If I read it the way
he did that dextrins were related to
viscosity I  would have to believe that
the table authors meant that iso-amy
alcohol corresponds to body, 2-methyl
butanol to estery and total carbohydrate
to fruity...  I don't think so. I really can't
understand the table, but I think 
Paul's interpretation is incorrect,
if I understood what he meant.
Without reading the paper, I doubt
if a good understanding of the table
can be made. It certainly can't be
used to make a point as Paul
apparently tried to do.

Also, this table has no comment on
beta glucans and proteinaceous
compounds at all, which is what 
M&BS says quite clearly relates to 
a full mouthfeel in the quote I provided.

I recall reading, perhaps in the old
M&BS or DeClerk that dextrins are
definitely not implicated in mouthfeel
based on an experiment to test the
theory. This is consistent with the M&BS
quote I provided. I just can't locate it.

Dextrins are typically not that high
molecular weight to have a real impact
on viscosity except at high levels and
as M&BS says there is not enough
work to demonstrate a correspondence
of viscosity with anything

I suspect dextrins will be around
30 or so sucrose units at the
maximum if they have been exposed
to alpha amylase for a reasonable
period of time in the absence of beta
amylase. These do not fall into the
class of macromolecules which M&BS
says is necessary ( or at least how
I interpret their statement)  to
impart a full mouth or high body.
Paul also states that with highly
modified modern malts for some reason
no proteolysis takes place in the
mash.

Page 270 vol 1 M&BS says:

"More recent experiments indicate
that previously the estimate of
proteolysis during mashing has
been under estimated.  Revised
estimates indicate that in infusion
mashes proteolysis accounts for
the formation of half of the TSN
(total soluble nitrogen -DRB) and
half of the amino nitrogen found
in the wort"

I point out that British malts have
always been highly modified. So
Paul's ( and others in the past)
implication that somehow we
cannot effect proteolysis in the
mash because the malts are
already highly modified is incorrect.

Page 270 op cit says:

"The formation of soluble nitrogenous
substrates in mashing is due to
the comparitively heat stable
with carboxy peptidases........
The presence of large quantities
 high-molecular weight material,
reflecting < inadequate proteolysis
in the mash >, may contribute to
haze formation in the beer"

Page 269 op cit says:

"The calorific food value of beer
is principally due to the ethanol
and unfermented carbohydrates,
but it is doubtful whether the latter
contribute to any other beer character,
although glycoproteins may act as
foam stabilizers."

I find no evidence that dextrins
contribute to mouth fullness.


Keep on Brewin'

Dave Burley 


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 16:15:40 -0700 (MST)
From: stealth at aztec.asu.edu (BOB STARK)
Subject: Cave Creek Chili beer



Living just down the road from Cave Creek Brewery I thought I'd give
them a call. Just got off the phone with one of the brewers there.
They still brew on premises and do use saranno peppers. The reason
no-one can find Cave Creek Beer is that they have gone through a
few name changes. Cave Creek Brewery -> Chili Beer brewery -> to
the present day Black Mountain Brewery. Those are the ones I know
of (don't shoot if there are others). He also said that they still
distribute across the US. 

So if you see a black mountain chili beer it is the good ole cave creek
chili beer under a new name.

No affiliation other then I happen to brew within a few miles of them 
and have enjoyed some of their offerings.



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:20:17 EST
From: WayneM38 at aol.com
Subject: Extraction rates

On :Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2000 08:50:34 EST
    Biergiek at aol.com writes:
    Subject: extraction rates

    >Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2000 23:21:22 EST
    >From: WayneM38 at aol.com
    >Subject: AKA Burst Sparging

    >I can bump up my system efficiency, as measured by Promash
    >up to 92%

<>

Kyle:

Yes, consider it 'brewhouse efficiency'.  That is; 92% of the theoretical 
extract of 1.036 for domestic 2 row pale malt giving me 32pts. + per lb. of 
malt. This is based on the measure of the OG of the final volume of cooled 
wort before pitching.

Big Fun Brewing has calibrated sight glasses on the HLT and Brew Kettle and 
volume markers on the 5 and 6 gallon fermenters.  The system losses are 
measured to keep the efficiency numbers 'based in reality'. These system 
parameters are dialed in ProMash and my recipes are repeatable within a point 
or two if the exact same ingredients are use. Download the trial version of 
ProMash and run the numbers of three or your favorite recipes to get an idea 
of your brewhouse numbers.

The malt type/crush makes a measurable difference.  Imported DWC malts are 
plumper and are a good match for my MaltMill. Domestic 6 row with same 
system, mash schedule and Malt Mill, drops my brewhouse efficiency to 85%. 
Did a CAP this summer with 6 row and 24% flaked corn and it came in at 82%. 
In the past, I would fret over those numbers, but now as long as the beer is 
good and the recipes are repeatable, I am happy.


Wayne
Botanist Brewer
 <A HREF="http://member.aol.com/bfbrewing/BigFunBrewing.htm">Big Fun Brewing 
RIMS Homepage</A> 
http://member.aol.com/bfbrewing/BigFunBrewing.htm


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 17:32:53 -0600
From: "John Lifer, jr" <jliferjr at misnet.com>
Subject: Tropical Beers

AJ de Lange wrote about tropical
Guiness from Mauritius.  I was over
in Indonesia a couple of years ago
and they had just about the same
thing, nearly export Guiness, the
only problem I had was that at about
85 degrees F, it was pretty bad.
The only other choice was Bintang,
which was locally made Heineken (or
a reasonable facimile) Usually about
the same temp.  The  locals would
bring you a glass of ice (if you
were stupid you would use the local
ice) but Hot was just fine by me.  I
didn't need any more inhabitants in
my gut than I normally keep!
John



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2000 18:53:21 -0600
From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca>
Subject: Re: self-priming pumps

Ray:

I suspected you knew about suction head and hot liquids, but it's good info
for the newbie lurkers.  I guess you're trying to get one pump that can do
two jobs.

I've been wanting to get a pump to do exactly the same job as you have in
mind, to eliminate the need for tiering the fermenters.  It's rough on the
back and there isn't always room on the upper level.

What I've been looking for is a peristaltic pump, ideally with a
variable-speed drive.  Unfortunately, they're marketed at people who are
spending someone else's money so they're not cheap.  If you find two good
ones on the surplus market, save me one!

Sean




Return to table of contents

---