HOMEBREW Digest #3239 Thu 03 February 2000

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  too high mash temp (TKBFRED)
  Jack and The WordMixer Strikes Again... Apologies ("Jack Schmidling")
  Melanoidin Malt (TKBFRED)
  Re: Brewer's Worst Thermometers (Ted McIrvine)
  efficiency & stuff ("Stephen Alexander")
  Re: flour in witbier (KMacneal)
  protein rest? ("Darrell Leavitt")
  Re: Bier de Garde (Jim Wallace)
  Lager brewing (Nathan Kanous)
  water analysis ("Charles Beaver")
  neucleation and boiling (Brian Pickerill)
   ("Branam, Mike")
  Hoppers (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Microwaves (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Holy honkin' hoppers, Matban! (Some Guy)
  Full Sail Amber Clone (SClaus4688)
  UV sterilization ("Eric J. Sperber")
  Practical Brewer (Marc Sedam)
  Re: Efficiency standards (VQuante)
  Tip for Improving Efficiency (Kirk.Fleming)
  Process Flow Diagram ("Francois Zinserling")
  Alcohol to Sanitize? ("Loren Crow")
  Microwave Legends ("Jack Schmidling")
  re: Yankee Confusion (Lou.Heavner)
  Food Value Calculations (mellis)
  re:a/c and beer (Jim Liddil)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 00:43:09 EST From: TKBFRED at aol.com Subject: too high mash temp >stencil wrote: >What will be the effect of too-high a mash temperature on >fermentability, flavor, and other qualities? If your mash temperature is too high, you kill the enzymes, which have a certain temperature spectrum to do their job of converting sugars, for example. Fermentability ===> you will have a lot of residual sugars left, which will change the whole ====> flavor profile, sometimes to sweet beers are the result, and it makes it easier for bacteria to attack your finished beer. Fred M. Scheer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 1 Feb 2000 23:45:09 -0600 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Jack and The WordMixer Strikes Again... Apologies From: Midwest Brewer <mgeorge at bridge.com> >I do have one honest question for you Jack: Are we using obsolete equipment because...WE DIDN'T FATTEN YOUR DAMN WALLET??? You are using obsolete equipment because you don't know any better and nothing fattens my wallet because I donate every penny I ever earn to my favorite charities. From: "Francois Zinserling" <francois at designtech.co.za> >Have you ever had that feeling of ... "now I've really screwed up" ? Hardly had I posted my 2 cents worth on the Microwave Bombs, when replies started coming in from the REAL professionals...... Precisely why I occasionally post seemingly off topic topics. I know I can count on this group to answer just about any question that I can't. These folks are a fantastic resource and I have no qualms about milking them. I just wish some of them would get interested in cheese making, we are still in the stone age there with the blind leading the blind. js HOME: Beer, Cheese, Astronomy, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 00:51:46 EST From: TKBFRED at aol.com Subject: Melanoidin Malt >scott wrote: >Subject: how much melanoidin malt is too much? We made some test brews (15 gal while I was brewing in Frankenmuth,MI, and from my experience, I would recommend to go to 2.5 Lbs. of Melanoidin Malt. But, I did not used it in a doppel bock, our Bock Beer was brewed with * 80% 2-row Pilsener Malt (Briess) * 5 % wheat Malt (Briess) * 10% Dark malt (400*L) (Briess) * 5 % Munich Malt (Briess) By the way, the people at Briess do not pay me for mentioning their name! Fred M. Scheer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 01:57:31 -0800 From: Ted McIrvine <McIrvine at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: Brewer's Worst Thermometers I have had nothing but terrible experiences with Brewer's Best thermometers. After a while, I get terrible readings in which something that is visibly boiling registers around 150 degrees on the thermometer. Unfortunately the only alternatives that I've found are quite expensive. (I now appreciate some of the reasons behind process in decoction mashing as well as in Scotch ale mashing regimes, both pre-dating thermometers.) What does the collective wisdom use that is 1) accurate and 2) in the $20-$50 range? Cheers Ted Rennerian Coordinate: Almost as far due East as possible (3 miles) without being in the Atlantic Ocean > > Andrew Nix said: > > "OK, one more....those floating thermometers (Brewer's Best I think), anyone > > else have a problem with the rubber handle coming off > > > > To which Ronald La Borde said: > > "I tossed mine, it seemed like the quintessential mark of a beginning > > homebrewer. :^)" > > > > Paul Kensler <Paul.Kensler at cyberstar.com> added: > > Yes, my Bewers Best thermometer's little > > rubber cap comes off in the mash.... > > Regarding the usefulness of these thermometers, I used to think along the > > same lines as Ron (I figured it can't be good, it came with my first kit and > > isn't NEARLY as cool as my dial thermometers!). Then I bought a lab-grade > > mercury thermometer for calibration - I discovered that my dial thermometers > > were 5-10 degrees off and my Brewers Best was within 1 degree of the lab > > thermometer! Each time I check calibration I have to adjust the dial > > thermometers again, and the BB is always within 1 degree. > > > > and this is in no way an endorsement of the Brewers Best line of > > thermometers (flame suit on!). - -- Dr. Ted McIrvine McIrvine at Ix.Netcom.Com College of Staten Island/CUNY "Music is the hidden arithmetical exercise of a mind unconscious that is calculating." Gottfried Leibniz, quoted in Lorenz Mizler's Musikalische Bibliothek Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 04:51:08 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: efficiency & stuff Herr Volker suggests Plato per kg per Liter. The British journal JIB uses 'liter degree per kg' where a degree is the same 0.001 SG difference that we HBers call a point. Not sure what the German lit uses for units. From: J Daoust asks >OK, I understand the correlation between higher mash temp giving a >"sweeter" brew, but does that also give less efficiency? If so, is there >a scale we can use to forecast the efficiency? Like 158 degrees =70%; >156=75%; 154=80% ??? Thanks, Jerry Daoust "Sweeter" is probably a poor description of the impact. More dextrinous is more supported. The yeast consume the sweet tasting sugars regardless of fermentability. Dextrinous fluids are more filling and arguably add to body and certainly viscosity. Pure commercial food dextrin does not does not taste sweet, nor does it taste starchy. For normal brewing water:grist ratios (1 to 1.5 qt/lb [or 2 to 3: L/kg for Phil&Jill) the extraction efficiency rises with temperature tho' from 65C to 80C the figures fall within a 10% range. In thinner (more watery) mashes the difference becomes negligible. In this experiment at 1.25qt/lb the wort varied from about 9P to 9.5P as mash temps increased from 70C to 80C - but I wouldn't be planning heavily around these figures. Many other factors make as much difference. Fermentability (real attenuability not apparent) dropped in the samples (at 1.25qt/lb) from about 69% at 70C, to just over 50% at 75C, and under 30% at 80C. - -- Phil says ... >Jack, if you crazy loonies can't even learn to drive on the proper side of >the road, what hope do you have coming to terms with the metric system? Phil doesn't recognize the obvious relationship between shifter on the right and good lager brewing that will keep his country in the ale age for generations to come. >Fact is, back in the 70's the USA missed a great opportunity to run with a >far better measuring system Oh yeah - that old French system based on a bad estimate of one quarter of the earth's circumference (a meter was to be 10^-7 of the distance from pole to equator), or 1/100 of the temp between the freezing and boiling point of a rather common molecular substance at a rather arbitrary pressure. For mass a volume (based on the oddly defined and ill-measured meter) of the common molecule used for temps were employed .... Of course the definition of the standards has shifted, but the basis and size of the units has not. Even the French didn't revolt against the Babylonian based units of time. Where's your metric day Phil ? It's trivially easy to derive a (actually 4) complete and consistent system of measure based on universal constants - the unit charge, the speed of light, Planks constant and (which one am I forgetting?). Why change twice ? The advantages of metric are that one can calculate *only* units w/o multiplication if you use base 10. The last time I looked calculators were cheaper than bottled water, and once GMO catches on you can say goodbye to having 10 fingers or toes to count on - and there goes the base10 system. Anyway that is my defense of the indefensible Phil, what do you think ? ;^) -S Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 07:20:04 EST From: KMacneal at aol.com Subject: Re: flour in witbier In a message dated 2/2/2000 12:14:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, David.Houseman at unisys.com writes: << Keith says he uses whole wheat flour from the grocery store in his wit. I like the idea enough to try it but, what's the equivalent in pounds of wheat berries/seeds? Or rather what's the points per pound of whole wheat flour? Anything special in trying to mash this with pils malt? No guey mess trying to sparge? Dave Houseman >> Dave, I made the assumption that 1 lb. of whole wheat flour = 1 lb. of whole wheat grain. I follow Rajotte's suggestion and use a sifter to add the flour to the mash. No guey sparges yet. Keith MacNeal Worcester, MA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 07:51:51 -0400 From: "Darrell Leavitt"<Darrell_Leavitt at esc.edu> Subject: protein rest? Whilst flipping through Papazian's HOME BREWERS GOLD, and looking for some pilsner recipes I noticed on p. 246-248 a gold cup winner, Redwood Coast Alpine Gold Pilsner. The recipe calls for 8lb 2 row, 1/4 lb american wheat malt, 1/2 lb american munich, 1/4 lb cara-pils. They recommend a step infusion, the first step being at 133 F, for 30 minutes. Is this just due to the wheat malt (and supposed higher protein),....or may there be another reason? ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 08:58:55 -0500 From: Jim Wallace <jwallace at crocker.com> Subject: Re: Bier de Garde >From: Graham Sanders >I want to brew a Biere de Garde but am having problems with some aspects of >this style. >Its more to do with technique and that troublesome flavour question. ..... the troublesome flavor is the earthy tone of these beers >is to let the wort simmer for a couple of hours after the main boil (with >the lid on) to encourage caramalization and that nice red colour. Is there >any truth in that? ...... this can give you the deep red tones of kettle carmelization without the dark grain flavors. I have also pulled off the first runnings and boiled them in a small pan and added back for this effect >But the big question that I'm sure has been asked many times - How do you >get that earthy, cellar type flavour? ...... I have had the same prob getting the earthy tone. I feel it comes not so much from the fermentation organisms but from the corked bottles and where they are stored. many people seem to think that the cool dampness of this region just like the lambic region further north encourage the molds and yeast that provide these musty flavors. I have tried corking but not gotten the same results. I now have a new cold cellar that maintains earth temp and will try again. I do not notice this mustiness in the belgin beers but the brewers there say that high humidity is to be avoided and their refermentations can get close to 80F. I will be asking about moisture levels and referm temps when I visit in france. >I would like to know what is the latest thinking and opinions are in this >area. .... I am leaving in a few weeks to visit several belgian brewer friends and plan to spend some time visiting brewers over the border in france . This is one of the questions at the top of my list. __________JIM WALLACE ____________ jwallace at crocker.com http://www.crocker.com/~jwallace Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 08:41:46 -0600 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Lager brewing Hi All, Regarding the use of the WYeast 2565 Koelsch yeast, Paul Lyon states / types: "You may want to chill the wort right after pitching the yeast and ferment at the lower range of the yeasts tolerant temps for the first few days to avoid the fruity tones. Then warm to upper range before the beer is finished to get rid of any diacetyl, then cold chill for aging. This may clean up some of the fruity esters..." This is actually how I've brewed lagers. One problem that homebrewers commonly encounter is difficulty pitching enough yeast to ferment a lager. I use a process similar to what Paul mentions. I pitch the yeast on the cold end of the "recommended" temp range and once I start to see fermentation, I let the temp slowly rise. Ultimately, they end up finishing in the mid to upper 50's. I say that because I set my thermostat to around 53 deg F and I know that the fermenting wort is warmer than that. Now, this is not the last word on lager brewing (I'm no expert...nor a certified judge) but it works pretty well for me and who can argue with a guy that works at NASA (that'd be Paul)? That's my $0.02. Anybody else care to chime in to help those who have not yet ventured to lager brewing cause "it's too hard"? Now back to our regularly scheduled discussion of microwave thermodynamics. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 08:52:57 -0600 From: "Charles Beaver" <cbeav at netnitco.net> Subject: water analysis I am trying to use the analysis of the bottled water I use for brewing to adjust the water for various brewing styles. I am using Promash to compute the adjustments that are needed. My problem is that in the analysis I find no lisitng of "carbonate". In Promash the pH seems to vary as a funtion of this value. The pH of my bottled water is 6.9. I suspect that the carbonate value is expressed by the "hardness (calcium)" measurment but I don't know how to use it in Promash. The hardness of the botted water is 95 mg/L. Can anyone shed any light on this? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 09:55:02 -0500 From: Brian Pickerill <bpickerill at mac.com> Subject: neucleation and boiling >Regarding superheated water in the microwave; this is an all too real >phenomenon and is analogous to making a supersaturated solution with say >salt or sugar. In both cases the solutions are metastable and can react to >the smallest perturbation such as simply jostling the container. In the lab >we are VERY aware of this phenomenon since microwaves have in many cases >supplanted the old Bunsen burner as a handy way to bring solutions to a >boil. I had to personally escort a summer student down to the ER after he >suffered burns from a container of superheated agar solution which he >swirled while looking down the opening of the Erlenmeyer flask! Yes, in fact, if you have tried to use a microwave for making starters, you've probably noticed that it's nearly impossible to boil in them without going from nothing to boiling over in no time. A boiling stone (a couple of pieces of sanitized aquarium gravel maybe) in the erlenmyer (qt jar, whatever) will help when boiling starters in the microwave --you will have enough time to stop the microwave before a boilover occurs if you watch it very closely. I need boiling stones in the 1 lt erlenmyer I have, even when boiling on the electric range, or I will get a boilover every time. It all erupts at once without the stones. - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie IN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 10:04:36 -0500 From: "Branam, Mike" <Mike.Branam at BellSouth.COM> Subject: I am building a 3 tier brewing system out of SS beer kegs. I have cut out the tops I have SS ball valves and couplings. My questions is how far up the sides do I place the couplings for the ball valve and the thermometer. Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 09:53:59 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Hoppers >From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> >Subject: arts and crafts and beer >From: jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU >>I'm considering replacing the base on my Maltmil(tm) with a piece of >quarter-sawn oak and suing oak cabinet plywood for the hopper etc. anyone >done such a thing? >As a matter of fact it is a $400 option on the MM but it also includes a >sterling silver crank. With my maltmill motorized, it's great fun to pour the grains from a 5 gal bucket into the purring mill. I like to watch the grains and look for any foreign matter (rocks, crap, who-knows-what) as the hopper is loaded. To crush 10 or 20 pounds for a brewing session takes maybe 3 minutes. Now why would anyone feel the need for a larger hopper? Is 3 minutes of fun just more than you can stand?? The time you would take to build the hopper could be used to crush hundreds of pounds of grain. I just don't get it. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu http://members.xoom.com/rlabor/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 10:05:19 -0600 From: rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: Microwaves From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> >On MW ovens: DO NOT pop the door open with the latch during a cook cycle. >This can let MWs escape before they finish reflecting around the cavity. >This >is especially noticable if you have a small mass in the cavity (such as a >teacup) >as compared to a turkey. > This has been measured and is not conjecture. If you want to open it hit >"pause" > then open the door. Oh no, I have been doing this for years with my coffee. It could be true though, now that I think about it. One way to find out for sure would be to place a small fluorescent lamp inside with the coffee, then carefully watch as the door latch is pushed. If the lamp immediately goes out, then this theory is BS. Ron Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsumc.edu http://members.xoom.com/rlabor/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 12:06:52 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Holy honkin' hoppers, Matban! Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... rlabor at lsumc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) says of Hoppers... > Now why would anyone feel the need for a larger hopper? Is 3 minutes of fun > just more than you can stand?? The time you would take to build the hopper > could be used to crush hundreds of pounds of grain. I just don't get it. Part of it is the ability to load 'er up, and let 'er rip. Another part is what may have driven Jack to develop the MM in the first place: it's FUN to create things with your own intellect. Another is that a motorized mill with some big 'ol funnel-like hopper thingy on top really looks cool, and amazes all your friends. My Humongous Hopper [tm] with Super Shutter [tm] is not a necessity of the brew, but it looks really impressive, has a slide I can play with and I Made It Myself [tm]. That, and the Mill Motorization Insert stand [tm], compleat with Bucket Hanging Shuttered Chute [tm], tells me that I'm the Bestest Brewer In The Neighborhood [tm] (That I'm the ONLY brewer in my neighborhood notwithstanding. And many other brewers chased me 'round and 'round it until they turned into pools of melted butter. Diacetyl anyone?) Hell, I can sell tickets to watch it run! - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "Brew my own beer? I usetacould." Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 12:40:48 EST From: SClaus4688 at aol.com Subject: Full Sail Amber Clone Darren Gaylor posted useful information in HBD 3238 on cloning Full Sail Amber. I'm writing to follow up on my own experience in trying to replicate this very drinkable example of a Pacific Northwest style amber. First, I've read several places and heard from folks in the industry that Full Sail's house ale yeast is 1084 (Wyeast Irish). Full Sail Amber is fruity with slight diacetyl. Using 1084 in a clone attempt would bring out these flavors and certainly make a more interesting beer than the bland 1056. Darren used the following grain bill: >17.50 lbs Great Western 2 row. (Any pale/pilsner malt should do) >2.00 lbs Crystal 60l >0.50 lbs Chocolate In my random uncontrolled experiments, the closest I've come to Full Sail Amber was in a beer that had about 40 percent Munich Malt. I also cut the Crystal malt and chocolate malt to half of what Darren used. I have my version on tap now, and it is a scary dead ringer for the Full Sail Amber. By the way, I highly recommend just about any of the Full Sail products. In the midst of all the microbrew hooplah and buy outs in this region, Full Sail just keeps focused on making tasty stable consistent beers. The brewery is also worth a visit, as there's usually something unusual on tap. At a visit a couple weeks ago, I had a beer the assistant brewery manager had named Ass-Pony Ale (the bar tap was made from the rear half of a bright pink and purple plastic toy horse). It was light golden, about 9 percent alcohol, 90 IBUs and rendered me incapable of driving. Steve Claussen in PDX Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 12:45:59 -0500 From: "Eric J. Sperber" <sperbeej at email.uc.edu> Subject: UV sterilization I have just started my first batch of brew this past weekend and one of the first things I noticed about the process is that it scares the crap out of you to even breathe, for fear of contamination. I am praying that my first brew is actually drinkable. I am also interested in fish tanks, and in-line UV sterilization filters are often used in saltwater tanks. I am thinking of this for beer prior to adding the yeast. Would this royally skunk the beer. Do the elements that are skunked by UV exist before fermentation, before boiling the sugars? Are they from the hops or the barley? Any theories or experience with this sort of thing? Eric Cincinnati Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 13:33:28 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Practical Brewer Just so you know, the MBAA removed the Practical Brewer download. Maybe there is too much of a good thing. -Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 14:08:07 EST From: VQuante at aol.com Subject: Re: Efficiency standards In einer eMail vom 01.02.00 06:06:31 (MEZ) Mitteleuropaeische Zeit schreibt "George de Piro" <gdepiro at mindspring.com>: > For this, I find that the metric system works best > (because it is so easy). Well spoken, George !!! (And it - the metric system - doesn't cause problems on NASA space missions...) Volker Volker R. Quante Brunnenbraeu Homebrewery Brewing and working in Warsaw / Poland, but definitely a German Homebrewer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 13:13:41 -0600 From: Kirk.Fleming at born.com Subject: Tip for Improving Efficiency I have, like many others, been unable to get extraction efficiencies above about 65%...until recently when I discovered an incrediby useful technique. Generally during a 90 minute boil there comes an increasingly lack of attention to the boil on the part of the brew crew. During one of these moments when attentions are directed elsewhere, I add a 24oz sack of Turbinado sugar to the boil (I only brew pale ales, generally). Depending on batch size, of course, this can markedly improve yield. NOTE: This technique only works if the additional ingredient isn't witnessed nor recorded. For only pennies per gallon, the advanced brewer can boast rather extraordinary yields and clearly demonstrate his or her enviable, and uncanny, brewing prowess. Kirk Fleming FRSL, FRSE, MSRP. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 21:34:12 +0200 From: "Francois Zinserling" <francois at designtech.co.za> Subject: Process Flow Diagram I recently saw an excellent process flow diagram on the wall of a micro-brewery, depicting each stage of the brewing process quite well. (Yes, even at my age I still prefer to read the pictures .. heh heh) It was by ALPHA LAVAL, and I had hoped to find it on their website, but there was no copy of this unfortunately. Can anyone recommend a website that shows the complete process flow diagram of a brewery? Or a book perhaps ? Francois Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 14:14:18 -0600 From: "Loren Crow" <lorencrow at earthling.net> Subject: Alcohol to Sanitize? NatureMy practice has always been to use alcohol -- usually cheap vodka -- to sanitize small items on the fly, like a thermometer for measuring the temp of yeast rehydration water or the end of a racking cane that accidentally touched something. I've never had a problem with this method, and never (knock on wood!) had an infection that resulted from this practice. However, a friend of mine -- she teaches in a university nursing program and works in a biology lab -- told me the other day that alcohol is almost useless as a sanitizing agent unless contact is maintained for about 30 minutes. A quick dip in alcohol simply does not kill bacteria or germs, according to her. She was talking about using alcohol as a prep for subdermal injections, but the implication seemed to be that it would also be true for my brewing applications. Does anyone know with certainty whether or not this is the case? Thanks! Loren Crow lorencrow at earthling.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 15:18:36 -0600 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Microwave Legends Guess I don't need to apologize for bringing up the micorwave bomb but after reading all the responses, I have a few comments of my own. 1. Science supports the legend as a possibility. 2. Case histories for actual injuries are sparse indeed. 3. The manuals on our several microwave ovens have no warnings about the problem. 4. I have never heard of a law suit over the issue. Considering that a ladder manufacturer lost a lawsuit because there was no warning about putting the feet of his ladder in a frozen cow pie, and McDonalds paid millions for a hot cup of coffee, my intuition says the issue is more urban legend that a real problem. In our litigating society, it is hard to believe that this danger would only be known because of some caring person on the internet who chooses to remain annonymous. It's nice to be aware of the potential problem but I guess I will still sanitize my cheesemaking glass ware without filling it with marbles. js PHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm HOME: Beer, Cheese, Astronomy, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 2 Feb 2000 17:17:52 -0600 From: Lou.Heavner at frco.com Subject: re: Yankee Confusion I know Phil from down under was just yanking Jack's chain and the whole subject is a bit off topic, but a great new book on high tech monopolies and anti-trust is out and it devotes a couple of pages to the metric question and even mentions driving on the wrong side. Check out Winners, Losers, & Microsoft by Liebowitz and Margolis, specifically pages 129-130. As usual, no affiliation or compensation yada yada... To keep this somewhat related to beer, I received a can (kit?) of hopped malt extract for Christmas which is supposed to be some kind of Alaskan smoked amber beer. Typical instructions included... don't boil or you'll lose the hop flavor and aroma, add sugar to get the correct gravity, etc... and a small packet of dried yeast which may have been abused who knows how. I just made a wee heavy which came out fabulously in spite of under pitching. It was based on some guidelines Al K and/or others had offered long ago in this forum for a Tartain House which I've never personally tried. I saved the yeast and have had it in the fridge under water for about 2 weeks. I intend to make a small extract batch using no sugar and the yeast saved from the wee heavy. I will probably try to get the yeast going again in advance with a starter just to ensure viability. I am going to boil and chill my water and sanitize the #$%^ out of the can, can opener,and spatula and try a no boil batch. We'll see how it turns out. If it turns out, ya'll will have some 'splainin to do. If not, I can blame it on so many things that I should not do! ;) Regards, Lou Heavner - Austin, Tx (a Yank to some, but definitely not a damn yankee!) Phil or Jill or whoever writes: >Jack, if you crazy loonies can't even learn to drive on the proper >side of >the road, what hope do you have coming to terms with the metric >system? >Volker might also drive on the wrong side of the road, but if he can >talk >kilos per litre, well I don't mind having to occasionally swerve >around him. >Fact is, back in the 70's the USA missed a great opportunity to run >with a >far better measuring system, and now you all have to live with that >decision. I suggest you all lower the red, white and blue from your >back >yards and hoist up the union jack. It's their system you are still >clinging >on to. But even they got wise and dumped it. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 3 Feb 2000 10:31:27 +1100 From: mellis at gribbles.com.au Subject: Food Value Calculations Hi all, Just wondering if any of you kind souls know how I can calculate the finished food value in calories/kilojoules from the OG/FG readings for the finished beer. I am a bit of a fatty and I need to do some basic calcs to adjust my weekly beer allowance. Thanks in anticipation. Mark E. in Melbourne Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 20:44:09 -0500 From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at vms.arizona.edu> Subject: re:a/c and beer > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2000 12:40:53 -0600 > From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> > Subject: arts and crafts and beer > > From: jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU > >> I'm considering replacing the base on my Maltmil(tm) with a piece of > quarter-sawn oak and suing oak cabinet plywood for the hopper etc. anyone > done such a thing? > > As a matter of fact it is a $400 option on the MM but it also includes a > sterling silver crank. > > However, I would not demean the project with plywood and quarter saw oak > would be very boring and of no particular help in this application. I have to disagree. But I feel we are discussing an asthetic issue. Quarter sawn oak has a much nicer grain pattern than does regular cut oak. But that is my opinion as an owner of a fair amount of a/c style furniture. Cherry is alos nice though. There is nothing wrong with cabinet grade oak plywood in this application. Again we are taking about viusal appeal vs. actual functional usage. Hell, might as well make it out of polypropylene. no rot, rust etc. > Actually, flat sawn wood is probably stronger so you could use half inch > stock. The value of quarter sawn wood is that it shrinks evenly in all > directions but this is not an issue for a base. I would make the hopper > sides out of the same 1/2" stock and find someone with a plane to plane > down the same stock to 1/4" for the panels. Sounds like a fun project but > would not fit into the decor of the World's Greatest Brewery. But what about the world's greatest a/c brewery. :-) Again we are talking about differences in style. I'll go way out on limb and say my maltmill (tm) is really a great product that even the movers could not break. And my EM (tm) still serves me well after years of use. But I am talking about something that I have a passion for. Not everyone likes Stickley Mission stuff. And if I had a shop like Norm abrahms I'd paln down some oak. Needless to say i'll have to have a local shop do it for me. > > I am currently working on a treasure chest for my grandaughter out of oak > and cherry. Living in a hardwood forest, I have become as obsessed with > wood as I am with beer. I start with an axe and end up with a project. > But what style? Again aesthetics are what we are talking about. Oh and I'm dead serious about a/c beer mugs or steins for those who care. And I'm still lookng for endorsements so I can run for the northeast bjcp rep. Jim Liddil North haven , CT Return to table of contents
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