HOMEBREW Digest #3242 Mon 07 February 2000

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  micro investigator (Tom)
  Here's Another Thermometer (Randy Shreve)
  Gelatin Finings and Pale Ale ("Steve Postek")
  Re: water loss during boil (RobertJ)
  RE: Bier de garde eau de cork / oak beans ("Sherfey")
  Color ("A. J. deLange")
  Corkiness, 6d nails, brewing language, blue brew (Dave Burley)
  Heads-up for Valley Mill owners. (Wes Smith)
  Practical Brewer download (zimurgist)
  Hot break ("Mike Maag")
  Foam stopper's affect on yeast culture?! (Pat Babcock)
  Lauter water deflector (Matthew Comstock)
  yes they are out there! (JPullum127)
  Brewing in the Readers Digest... (Pat Babcock)

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Entry deadline for the Mayfare Homebrew Competition is 3/15/00 * See http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 00:54:45 -0600 From: Tom <tco at mindspring.com> Subject: micro investigator Today I brought a bottle of an infected batch of mine to a microbiologist I know. She stained to see yeasts (blue stain I think) and we noticed two distinct types of yeast. There were plenty of both of them. I pitched Wyeast Irish Ale XL into 5 gallons of Irish amber. Fairly long lag, about 16 hours before airlock movement. Question 1.) Is this culture a mixture of two strains? Sort of like whitbread which is a mixture of three strains of yeast.. The two types of yeast looked like... a.) a larger perfectly round yeast that stained dark blue and evenly b.) slightly smaller and slightly oval/football shaped, stain was concentrated on center of cell, the outer edge appeared white/clear and had a thickness of about 1/5th of the diamter of the cell. Question 2.) Anyone know if one of these yeasts are not S. Cerev.? Champagne yeast maybe? I also had some kind of cocci swimming in the brew. The beer has been bottled for 3 weeks, so what ever the little boogers are they are living anaerobically, she says. Suprisingly the beer isn't awful, just phenolic and estery. I suspect yeast B is a wild one. If you know this one, I'd like to hear it. Private email is fine. Tom Meier Decatur, Alabama - a fur piece from that Renner feller Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 07:53:31 -0500 From: Randy Shreve <rashreve at interpath.com> Subject: Here's Another Thermometer I thought I would throw in my two cents worth on thermometers. I use a VWR Scientific digital thermometer. This unit has high/low temp alarms with a built in timer. It has a 7 inch stainless probe with a 36 inch cable. This is probably the best "store bought" item in my brewing equipment repertoire. No affiliation, yada, yada. For those interested see www.vwrsp.com and look in the general catalog. Current price $42.75. Part number 61161-274. Peace and Long Life Randy Luvvin my (self motorized) MaltMill in Salisbury, NC You just keep on bustin' those momilies Jack!! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 08:56:55 -0500 From: "Steve Postek" <spostek at voicenet.com> Subject: Gelatin Finings and Pale Ale I used gelatin finings for the first time in my most recent batch that I have asked several questions here about in the last month. The brew was an American Pale Ale. When I racked into the secondary I dry hopped. Three days prior to bottling I added the gelatin finings as instructed on the package (combine with warm water and let stand for 10 minutes before pouring in the fermenter). I sanitized my bottles as always. Rinse with B Brite. Rinse with plain water. Stick in dishwasher with no soap and hot air dry. Then I usually rinse again with filtered water before bottling. I have never had a problem. Now two weeks post bottling if I hold a bottle up to the light I can see something grainy on the sides of the bottles. I have never seen this before. Is it the gelatin sticking to the sides of the bottles? The beer is crystal clear and tastes great but I am just a bit stymied by the stuff hanging on the sides of each and every bottle (I checked all 29 22oz bottles). Steve Postek Nuclear Brewing Company Limerick, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 09:16:55 -0500 From: RobertJ <pbsys at pbsbeer.com> Subject: Re: water loss during boil "J O'Meara" <drumthumper_2000 at yahoo.com> wrote Fellow Brewers, I just brewed my 4th batch this evening, and I lost about one gallon of water while the wort was boiling. Is this usual? I did use 1 lb of cooked rice as one of the specialty grains, so I'm wondering if the rice absorbed some of the water. Thanks in advance for the answers. ___ I plan on .75 - 1.5 gal loss per hour of boil. Factors that effect loss would are; how vigorous the boil, open or covered pot, relative humidity. Don't think cooked rice absorbed much of the water. Bob Precision Brewing Systems URL http://pbsbeer.com Manufacturer of 3 Vessel Brew Systems, HERMS(tm), SS Brew Kettles, SS hopback and the MAXIchiller Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 09:38:58 -0500 From: "Sherfey" <sherf at warwick.net> Subject: RE: Bier de garde eau de cork / oak beans OK, asuming that it's the cork that adds that final touch to BDG, is anybody out there willing to admit they have tried dry corking their beers?. Sounds like a fun thing to do. Perhaps even toasting the corks a bit could bring out more cork character. It's worth a try. On a similar topic, has anyone used oak beans that can compare the results to chips, etc? The "beans" I am referring is oak that appears to have been toasted and then cut up into 1/2 inch cube. I have never used oak of any kind before, but these things looked to be so close to the real (barrel) thing that I couldn't resist getting some to try. They are available in French and American oak from the Home Wine and Cheesemaking shop 800-559-9922. No affiliation.... David Sherfey Warwick, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2000 16:36:29 +0000 From: "A. J. deLange" <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Color Spencer wrote: >RGB are NOT the primaries in the NTSC ("never twice same color") >standard. The NTSC primaries are Y (luminance), I (R-G) and Q (Y-B). I think it's really a matter of semantics. The cameras pick up RGB, gamma correction is done on the RGB signals and the gamma corrected signals are then "matrixed" into the Y, I and Q signals which are amplitude modulated onto the main carrier in the first instance and, in the case of I and Q, in quadrature on the color sub carrier. The inverse is done in the receiver and it is RGB which is presented to the color guns. The FCC-NTSC system does specify RGB primaries located at x= 0.67, y = 0.33 (R); x= 0.21, y=0.71 (G) and x = 0.14, y = 0.08 (B). It is in fact these primaries that I used in the example numbers I published a week ago so that when Spencer later writes in response to that post... >> 9. Calculate B >> B = 0.058*X -0.118*Y + 0.896*Z [-0.73] >> Obviously, >> the negative value should be set to zero. It's a function of modeling >> error, roundoff etc. It's just telling you that beer isn't blue! >Actually, it's telling you that the beer color cannot be accurately >reproduced on your monitor. ... he is very close to the right explanation (to which level of depth I didn't think we'd get). The example beer color cannot be modeled by a system whose primaries are the NTSC-FCC primaries. If the three FCC primaries given above be plotted on a chromaticity diagram and joined by straight lines the example beer chroma (x = .5640, y = .4927) would plot outside the triangle so formed. Note that had I used the CIE RGB primaries, the example beer would have fallen within the primary triangle and the B value would have been a small positive number. The limitations of the NTSC system with respect to the reds and purples (the parts of the chromaticity diagram that the FCC primaries lop off) are well known and widely lamented. Darker beer colors fall in this region.Note that in TV sets newer phosphors which are brighter but which are even more restricted in their ability to produce the full gamut of color are now in use. Now whether my monitor can reproduce the example beer color or not is another question altogether. I have no idea as to where the primaries for this little laptop's screen lie. As the light emitters are transistors and not phosphor dots I immagine the primaries are not the FCC primaries found in readers' color TV's (or should I put "colour" and see if I can rile the Ozzies and Pommies again). I very much doubt they are close to the CIE primaries whose lower boundary kisses the alychne. The points about gamma correction are well made. I, an obnoxiously proud Mac user, would never have thought of this and was quite puzzled when some correspondents reported setting RGB values greater than 100 (Mac's, with the gamma correction built in, have controls which range from 0 to 100%). If you double the color levels on a machine, such as a Mac, which does automatic gamma correction (wonder if the laptops have it), the color not shift but only appear brighter. With respect to the transformation I used: in the field I suspected I had bobbbled a factor of 10 in the green Z coefficient, corrected it and that's what I published. A check now that I am home reveals that I was correct in my surmise and that the coefficients I posted are correct. Note that they are for transforming from XYZ based on Illuminant C (which appromixates northern daylight) to the FCC-NTSC RGB primaries. I think these are the best transformations to use as I expect most computer monitors are cloer to the FCC primaries than the CIE. I'd like to reemphasize that it is very difficult to reproduce beer color on the screen of a computer or TV. This is because the dynamic range of beer light transmission is large. When you look at a beer with a view to assesing its color you supply enough light that you can readily see the color even if this means shining a flashlight through it. On the computer, the equivalent is increasing the luminance to the point where the color can be seen but you can only do that for one beer at a time or for a group of beers that have very close to the same level of light attenuation. Quoting from ASTM E-308 Paragraph 5.1 "The CIE colorimetric systems provide numerical specifications that are meant to indicate whether or not pairs of color stimuli match when viewed by a CIE standard observer. The CIE color systems are not intended to provide visually uniform scales of color difference or to describe visually perceived color appearances." Nonetheless it is exactly the CIE system that is the basis for color broadcasting throughout the world. It is made to work as well as it does because scene illumination is adjusted to limit dynamic range and because things like gamma correction are applied to compensate for the dynamic range limitations. Taking all this into account consider Dana's question as to whether a photograph of beer could be used as the source for data for computerized patches. Remember that a photograph's job is to present a metamer of the color of an object, not the color of the object. Thus a spectral scan of the film of a photograph only reveals the absorbtion spectra of the three dyes (magenta, cyan and yellow) which are used to control, respectively, the amounts of green, red and blue light refelected from or transmitted by the photograph. Also, the photographer will have arranged lighting and exposure so that the beer looks the way he wants it to. I could photograph a glass of Guiness so that it looks jet black or ruby red depending on how I illuminate it. I can't put ruby red Guiness and Amber Pilsner Urquel in the same photograph in a way that makes comparison meaningful. It is, therefore, IMO, best that we think of these color measurements as comparative numbers, just as we do SRM now. A couple of other small points: Gamma correction is indeed driven by the CRT, not the camera. In the US the gamma correction value is 2.2, in the rest of the world it's 2.6. Color blindess effects 8% of us males and 0.5% of women. Of the males, only 2.5% are true protanopes (all colors can be matched two primaries) and only 0.003% can see no color at all. If anyone wants data to play with this stuff, drop me a line. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 12:31:55 -0500 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Corkiness, 6d nails, brewing language, blue brew Brewsters: Although I suspect the earthiness being referred to is microbiological in origin (perhaps Brettanomyces), "corked" wines occus about 5% of the time from bad corks. Often chlorine bleaching has been blamed for this and is no longer done by quality cork manufacturers. You might try bleaching some corks in chlorine bleach and rinsing them well to a neutral pH before corking. Although I don't think this works with every cork, this may give you an idea if you like this musty, corky taste and if this is for what you are searching - if you get a bottle that has a corked taste. - ----------------------------- If you want to be really confused, in the US we still talk about 6 penny nails and the like and label them with a "d" which is the defunct symbol for the old British penny in the old non-metric money system and may have related to the cost of a pound of these when spending a penny meant something else. I still remember the "hay'pney" ( half penny), but don't remember seeing one, the" thrup'ney" or "thrup'nce" (3 pennys), six'p'nce ( six pennys), shilling (two six'p'nce and 1/20 of a pound), the Pound and the Guinea ( a pound and a shilling which was a mythical ( or at least ancient) coin, I believe, often used for advertising the cost of renting flats and in higher priced clothing stores as a sign of "class". Although the British monetary system was confusing to the uninitiated, I remember an old dear staring into a Marks and Sparks store window, thoroughly puzzled by the recently introduced digital monetary system and asking me "how much is that in pounds, shillings and pence?" A young worker I hired to help me went to the Home Depot and kept talking about "6d" nails which is how the box is labelled. I didn't correct him until we were alone, but I didn't get the impression the clerk knew that the 'd' is pronounced "penny" either. BTW the old British Penny ( not the modern pence) was about the size of a half US dollar (about an inch and a half or 3.79 cm +) and made from copper alloys. "spending a penny" meant going to the public toilet ( "loo") which took this coin. Who says we don't speak the same language? - --------------------------------------- Speaking of language, in the spirit of modernization and in line with the "modernization" of the counting system, why don't we stop using these antiquated terms like tun, lauter, wort. grist, mash and the like. Why not reaction chamber, extraction, fermentable solution, comminuted reactants, reaction mixture? - -------------------------------------- Dana Edgell asks if starting to boil as soon as the wort comes out of the lauter is too soon and if it will cause a problem. I also do it this way and don't have a problem, although it takes several minutes and often never boils until the sparge is just finishing. I was just pointing out to avoid too hot a mashout ( and even gave the wrong temperature. Damn this metric system. I should have said 176 F ( not 180F) or 80C) as others may not realize some alpha amylase is needed to clean up any starch which was not saccharified during the normal mash routine at lower temperatures but may dissolve as the temperature is raised to mashout. It is important to check the lautered wort with iodine to be sure you do not have what Kuenze calls a "blue brew" which indicates you have residual starch, even though the mash had earlier given a negative iodine test. Blue brews likely result from poor milling, too short a mash and/or too high of a mashout temperature. This will result in a potential for starch haze. If you get a blue brew then you will have to remash it with some additional malt or add an extract with some diastatic capability and hold it in the 160s F (71C+/-- ) range to avoid additonal beta amylase activity. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2000 11:22:25 +1100 From: Wes Smith <wessmith at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Heads-up for Valley Mill owners. My Valley Mill is motorised with a 12:1 reduction system powered by a 1/3hp motor. Heaps of torque...As a result of this little episode I now have a (almost) perfectly machined circumferential groove 3mm wide x 1mm deep approx. in the driven roller. Story goes like this: - Mill had been giving problems last couple of times used - idler roller would stall and need "prod" from end of PVC brewing spoon to get grain moving. - Decide to order bearing upgrade kit from Valley people - January 25 - late PM, decide to prepare for Great Brewing Day on 26th (Australia Day) Heady thoughts of a great "Federation Wit" come to mind. - All goes well until mill decides to stall again with full hopper. More prods with spoon. Bit more grain runs then stalls again. - Charlie's mantra comes to mind so stop and sample earlier brew. - Nothings changed - damn thing still wont run properly and still have about half the grain bill (10kg) to run. - Mill is starting to make more noise than usual. Driven roller shaft quite hot (pinky test) Decide to turn off and let cool down. - Makes no difference - at #%! of a thing still wont run properly. - Recognise pink mist rising, decide to change weapon of choice from PVC brewing spoon to long piece of hardwood 1/2" (sorry - 12mm) square. Actually the PVC spoon is getting much shorter. - Locate idler roller with end of new weapon and apply significant downforce. - Suddenly grain begins to run again. Sweetness and light return - Charlie was right - this is fun. Fast forward to following week. The new bearing blocks arrive from Valley. I dismantle the mill to find the damaged roller! There is no sign of any foreign object - just a thumping big groove in the roller. Whatever caused the damage has gone - probably being rejected by the Kangaloon Reds (worms) in the compost bin (they love the spent grains). My best guess at this stage is that something like a small self tapper found its way into the mill and had sat there for some time gradually grinding its way into the roller but remaining in the one spot. All the stalling problems were due to this object - not any stiff or seized idler bearing. When I finally attacked the idler roller with the stick, it finally caught the remains of the object and passed it through. Lesson learnt? Be very careful with motorised units - especially where there is an abundance of torque. I had no way of knowing how much extra energy the motor was providing. Oh - I like the new bearing kit for the mill. Just wish it was easier to upgrade the idler roller from Nylon to ball bearings. In the meantime I am pondering the impact of PVC and steel swarf in a mash.... Wes Smith. Not far from Phil in Burradoo. Return to table of contents
Date: 5 Feb 2000 16:46:43 -0800 From: zimurgist at worldspy.net Subject: Practical Brewer download You can still download this at mbaa.com/publication/pdf.html This will take you directly to the download site. (it was open as of the writing of this post 2/5/00) it is worth the tedious download--Good luck Daveman ______________________________________________________________ Get free Internet service and email at http://www.worldspy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 21:33:37 -0500 From: "Mike Maag" <maagm at rica.net> Subject: Hot break A while ago "Darrell Leavitt"<Darrell_Leavitt at sln.esc.edu>asked: >I have a question about the "hot break": >,...just as the wort starts to boil I get scum on the top. I have interpreted this scum as "hot break" My question is: is this the hot >break/ large proteins? and if so, can one 'over skim'...ie can one take >too much thereby harming head retention? To which Jeff Renner replied: No, this is just some other coagulated protein. Hot break is a white, suspended coagulated protein.......I also skim that thin crusty brown crud just because it looks nasty... Jeff I waited for someone to address this, but no one did, so... Al Korzonas states in Homebrewing Vol 1 on page 76 "As the hot break forms, it will create a brown film on top of the wort which I recommend you skim off....I believe that waiting ten minutes (and skimming the hot break) before adding the boiling hops increases the amount of bitterness you get from them (hop utilization rate). I hypothesize that, since the hops help form the hot break, some of the hot break will coat the hops interfering with the extraction of their bitterness." Since reading this about 20 batches ago, I have skimmed the "pre-hot break" off the wort before adding hops. The perceived hop bitterness I get seems to be much improved. Head has not suffered one bit. Just a data point. Mke Maag, In the Shenandoah Valley 8*) i Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 21:53:19 -0500 From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Foam stopper's affect on yeast culture?! Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... I noticed something interesting recently. I have what I'm beginning to refer to as "The Eternal 1056 Culture". I started it in November thinking that I'd get a chance to brew around Thanksgiving. Alas, I didn't. I continued to feed it and step it up thinking I'd get to brew near Christmas. Drat, I didn't - but I did manage to donate a spilt of it to a close friend in need of a quick starter. Anyway, it's now February. As you might imagine, this starter now lives in several flasks having been split from the original long ago. With each split, I was careful to swirl the flask and ensure all the yeast was in suspension before pouring into another vessel. I'd expect that each of the three 2 liter Erlenmeyers it now lives in are as similar as a home brewer can get them. One culture is under one of Williams Brewing's foam stoppers as I was short of one #10 stopper when I split into the three. The other two are under typical home brew store plastic 'S'-type airlocks. The observation: the culture under the foam stopper consistently comes to kraeusen faster than the other two when feeding, and has a very thick, close head when at kraeusen, and stays at kraeusen longer. The others seem to be a bit sluggish when coming to kraeusen, with rocky, large-bubbled heads. Now, I haven't (yet) switched stoppers to see if I can move the effect around (I do intend to, though), but this has been pretty consistently observed over a period of almost three months now. Is there any reason why this SHOULD be? Perhaps the foam stopper is more "two-way" than the water lock? Or maybe the foam stopper doesn't cause a slight increase in head pressure as you would get from the weight of the column of water in the S-lock, so there is less CO2 dissolving into that starter? When pouring off, there are no flavors unlike any other starter I've ever sampled, so it's not an infection. Thoughts? On a hopeful note, I finished welding together the base of my new brew stand a few minutes ago. With luck and no interfering occurrences, I should have the rack finished tomorrow evening. Once that's done and piped in, between that and my Motorized MaltMill Monstrosity [tm], I should think that I'd have to actually LOOK for excuses not to brew.... - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock/ "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 5 Feb 2000 20:02:59 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com> Subject: Lauter water deflector Greetings Different folks have described how they scatter their sparge water over the grain during the lauter. Sparge arms, etc. Tonight I used a small Tupperware (no affil... ah gimme a break!) lid and set it on top of the grain. I poured right on top of it until I had a goodly plug of water sitting on top of the grain bed. When I stopped pouring, the thing floated. No problems with water having to creep around a big plate or something. Just another idea. - ------------------------ >From Mark Tumarkin in hbd#3226 I paraphrase his paraphrase >SOLUTION OF THE SECRET OF ALCOHOLIC FERMENTATION >because of the discharge if excrements. These >animals evacuate ethyl alcohol from their >bowels and carbon dioxide from their urinary >organs. Thus one can observe how a specifically >lighter fluid is exuded from the anus and rises >vertically whereas a stream of carbon dioxide is >ejected at very short intervals from their >large genitals." >by Fredrich Woehier and Justus Von Liebig >Published in the annals of Chemistry Volume 29, 1839 Lighter fluid is exuded from the anus? Where the heck is Fouch. No really. Did I miss a comment here? - ----------------------- >From Fred Wills in the HomeBurley Digest - that's rich. >For what it's worth, my vote is that the most >cause of Russ's low >extraction is an incomplete grain crush. >QDA!!! It's my *opinion* based on my own >personal experience that it is impossible to >overcrush malt when using a roller mill. Unless >you use a flour grinder (ie Corona), stuck >mashes are due to lautering process not >milling. While I can't argue the first statement, in my limited experience, the only stuck mash I've had was when I had the mill set High Crush. I think a moderate crush is far more forgiving, especially for new mashers. While a real good crush might not give an expert a stuck mash, a new guy like me will stop things up pretty good (Lighter fluid is exuded from ...?). With a poor crush we lose a few OG points but we have a forgiving mash - no stuck mash headaches. Fine with me. Also, I'm sure this question revolves around what sort of set up you have. One guy's great lauter is another guy's stuck mash. Laters Matt Comstock in Cincinnati __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 10:20:06 EST From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: yes they are out there! i just had my new washing machine delivered by the dumbest guy in the state. i had to write some of his comments cause they are so strange it was funny. 1. as he came into my furnace room he saw all my carboys, tubings, wort chiller ect, and asked"whoo boy what you got here a meth lab?" i politely told him it was for beer making as visions of the swat team invading my house flashed before me. 2. he then said" i was going to go to one of those microbreweries downtown once but friend told me it's all faggot beer,so i didn't go'. at this point i quit talking to him but he just kept babbling as he connected up the hoses. 3.i like the bud lites but only in the bottles, the cans are a different beer and it's bad for you. 4. but only the brown bottles,i had some of those green bottles from canada once and they make you sick after drinking 7 or eight of em" 5. that german beers so expensive because they know guys only buy it to impress women with even though it tastes bad. 6. i like the 911's at guitars and cadillacs, it's aftershock,everclear and rumplemintz ,after 5 or 6 of them you'r legs don't work right. 7. and finally as he was leaving "you know you could probably refill old bottles with that homemade stuff and sell it to bars,if they served it late at night most people probably wouldn't notice"! the really scary thing is this guys vote counts as much as mine! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2000 17:55:35 -0500 From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Brewing in the Readers Digest... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Perusing the February 2000 Readers Digest whilst upon the throne, I came across an article discussing Jim Koch's coming to be. A brief description of how his father didn't want him to be a brewer, how he dropped out of Harvard, joined Outward Bound, returned to Harvard, etc, etc - even how his "...dad had been cleaning out the attic and came across some old beer recipes on scraps of yellow paper." (Neat bit of PR work there - true or otherwise.) Anyway, it closes with Jim's advice to all young entrepreneurs: "Life is very long, so don't rush to make decisions. Life doesn't let you plan." Am I the only one who finds this oddly contradictory? - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock/ "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
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