HOMEBREW Digest #3292 Thu 06 April 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  honey sources in aust (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  Re: HSA (Gil Drury)
  Parties, Kiwis And Dave Burley, What Are You Smoking? ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  bouncing carboys ("FLEMING, JOE")
  Maple wine ("Russ Hobaugh")
  FWH demystification (Jeff Renner)
  Cardamom source ("Dave Hinrichs")
  Re: Kegging 15.5 gallons (Jeff Renner)
  re: bouncing carboys/Fermenting in cornys ("Brian Dixon.")
  Kegging (Richard Foote)
  low dough-in rate (Chad Bohl)
  Sanitizing on the cheap (R.)" <rhampo at ford.com>
  RE; Electrical Question (Jonathan Peakall)
  Barley wine carbonation (Dalefogg503)
  Hops and cornie ferments ("Whyman Dental Lab, Inc")
  Sierra Nevada Porter Clone ("John Palmer")
  Re: Belgian Wit ("Chris Schiffer")
  re: HSA ( aka hot wort oxidation) ("Dr. Pivo")
  RE: FWH, an observation. (Graham Sanders)
  Re: Electrical Question (Jeff Lutes)
  English/Scotish ales ("Alex MacGillivray")
  Water analysis help please ("scott")
  Brassed Off... (Wes Smith)
  Forced Carbonation (FredScheer)
  Secondary under pressure (FredScheer)
  Hoarhound and hop extract ("Kevin Mc Lean")
  Takeing Pilzn and Praha by Storm (Thepfhb)
  Competition Reminder - PEACH STATE Brew-Off 2000 ("John Stegenga")

* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Entries for the 18th Annual HOPS competition are due 3/24-4/2/00 * See http://www.netaxs.com/~shady/hops/ for more information * 18th Annual Oregon Homebrew Festival - entry deadline May 15th * More info at: http://www.hotv.org/fest2000 Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 14:47:12 +1000 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Aus.Sun.COM> Subject: honey sources in aust Sorry for everyone else, this is for the Austalians only. (Phil Yates is included) Anyone in Aust. know of a good source of bulk Honey other than Coles and Big W?? Kind regards Scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 18:44:14 +1000 From: Gil Drury <drury at zip.com.au> Subject: Re: HSA An observation on Hot-side Aeration. Last year I did an APA. On transferring hot wort from the whirlpool the tap came out. This resulted in about 20l of wort dropping up to 18 inches into the transfer bucket with immense foam formation. My brew length is 55l so a third was possibly affected by HSA. This beer was fine (tasted at the local beer shop - at about 2 weeks in the keg) BUT, the last part of the third and last keg was tasting noticeably "tired" - this was maybe 4 to 6 weeks after kegging. Do I believe in HSA? Yes, but only under circumstances like the preceeding ie. rough handling. I don't think things like transferring mash via 2l jug or open boiling (both of which I do) cause problems for amateur brewers. Like many of you I've found a few bottles of what once was a good beer, buried in the garage for a year (here the summers can get to 40C), opened it expecting massive staling/oxidisation, and.. it's fine. Cheers, Gil Drury Sydney, Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 21:45:06 +1000 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Parties, Kiwis And Dave Burley, What Are You Smoking? Dave Lamotte asks for advice on warming up his parties. >There have been reports emanating from the >Southern Highlands of Rice Lager parties featuring a billiard >table as >the prime source of visual entertainment. Dave, here is the first point needing correction. The billiard table is not the prime source of visual entertainment. It is the scantily dressed ladies leaning precariously over the table as they take their shot which gives rise (do not read too much into this) to the, to the, I've lost my train of thought. To the visual source of entertainment, that's what I meant to say. That and Eric Fouch dancing on top of it in a tutu, you can't have a party without Eric. So now you have the billiard table, the rest is easy. Ring Eric, he'll be over in a flash, and I'll send Jill and the girls up to see you in the ute. Maybe then I can get some serious brewing under way. Jeff Renner is concerned that the Kiwis are having a detrimental effect on my brewing. In short Jeff, the new brew house is a bonza and I can't really blame the Kiwis for my recent heavy work load. But yes, Air New Zealand are in the process of buying Ansett Australia 100%. Hence the reason I am shaking like a sheep! I mean to say, I think highly of Wes Smith but I hate to think what he might be like let loose with a cat of nine tales, or for that matter, any of his relatives in NZ!! But my final point for tonight is about Dave Burley's contribution to the HSA ongoing paranoia. Dave says: >For example, boiling in a small open kettle will also >produce hot wort oxidation. Don't believe it? No, I certainly don't believe it. Well scientifically I expect you are going to try and prove it. When I first started brewing I worried about so many things that I should and shouldn't do and it all came from reading books and listening to people who I thought sounded like they knew it all. It was only from experience that I gained confidence and somewhere down the track it occurred to me that so much of what I had previously taken as gospel was complete and utter bullshit. At about this time I picked up on some of Doc Pivo's posts and realised that here was a brewer who had drawn the same conclusion. Though in the Doc's case he had done an awful lot of brewing off his own bat before he ever read all the bullshit. Now we are to worry about boiling in the kettle without the lid partially on? Bullshit. Sorry to sound a little strong but for all the lurkers (and I'm told there are thousands), I hope you are not intimidated by some of the advice you read in here. Brewing good beer just isn't this complicated. Unless you want to make it so. And for half these lunatics, that would appear to be their sole pleasure. Personally I would prefer a wild party in the billiard room. Cheers Phil Chief Organiser For Wild Parties In Newcastle Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 08:36:00 -0400 From: "FLEMING, JOE" <JOE.FLEMING at spcorp.com> Subject: bouncing carboys Another tried 'n true carboy tip: milk crates! Yes, not only are they essential for decorating your habitat in Early American College Student (esp. the milk crate & cinder block period) and storing your now defunct albums, but they serve as ideal carboy caddies. The crates fit 5G & 6.5G carboys, include handles for easy transport (at no extra cost!) and the built in trivet prevents contact with concrete. Flip it over and its a bottling stool! Act now, but please let this not be the rebirth of the keg/milk crate crimes thread! Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 09:29:30 -0400 From: "Russ Hobaugh" <Russ_Hobaugh at erm.com> Subject: Maple wine This might be stretching the topic, but I need some help with a Maple wine I have in the secondary. I started this on 2/19/00 and it had an SG of 1.154. It had a nice active fermentation for 6 weeks. No activity out of the airlock for the last week, so I racked it but it is still at 1.080 and no signs of further activity. I think this puppy is stuck, so how do I get it unstuck? It tastes good, but is way to sweet to let it go as is. I am thinking about starting another champagne yeast starter with extra yeast nutrient, and dumping that into the carboy. Will this work, or is there something else I should try? TIA Russ Hobaugh Goob' dog brewery Birdsboro PA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 09:31:15 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: FWH demystification Old HBDer Hubert Hanghofer from Austria answered this question privately and cc'd me, and has given permission to post it here: > From: Bob McDonald <rcmcdonald at yahoo.com> > Subject: FWH/hot break > > [snip] > Also a question about first wort hopping -- My > (perhaps flawed) understanding is that the point of > FWH is to impart flavor and aroma by adding hops to > the kettle prior to the boil. Everything I've read > about hops says that the delicate aromatic compounds > that provide hop aroma and flavor are driven off in > the boil. If this is so, how can hops added before > the boil add flavor and aroma? Help me out here. First let me emphasize that there is absolutely nothing mysterious about FWH from the chemotechnical or physical point of view! Hop aroma oils are driven off in the boil, mainly because they get easily stripped by escaping vapour. Furthermore hop oils are insoluble / lipophilic and thus tend to get absorbed (=further reduced) by yeast in fermentation. If you add hops "pre-boil" however, those essential oils are oxidized to a high degree (consider there is no guarding vapour blanket) and thus turned into *soluble* components ("epoxides and alcohols") that are not as easily stripped and are not adsorbed by yeast to such a high degree as the "native essential hop oils" (sorry for my word constructs, but as you probably have discovered already, English is not my native language). Thus you get definitely more flavour and maybe some aroma out of the hops. This principles were discussed by German brewing scientist Ludwig Narziss in his German books (my bibles) some time before the often cited Brauwelt article appeared. ...and let me add this: If Ludwig sez so, IT IS SO! I've posted this to the HBD a few years ago but don't have the HBD number handy. Hope this helps Hubert, brewing in Salzburg, Austria (and right now on the way to a Munich-business trip, ...guess what I do there...) - -- "Bier brauen nach eigenem Geschmack" Infos unter: http://www.netbeer.co.at -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 08:48:36 -0500 From: "Dave Hinrichs" <dhinrichs at quannon.com> Subject: Cardamom source As a satisfied customer, a good source of many fresh high quality spices, www.penzeys.com. I now buy all of my spices from them, outside of those I grow myself. The direct link to cardoon is http://www.penzeys.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/scstore/p-penzeyscardamom.htm? L+scstore+pvtj6915+954942722 Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 10:17:56 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Kegging 15.5 gallons "Bruce M. Mills" <millsbruce at earthlink.net> wrote: >If I were able to purchase a >couple of kegs, a tap, and the tool to access the interior, would I be able >to fill, clean, and sanitize adequately without a commercial cleaning >system ? I keg in 7.75 (1/4 bbl) Sankeys and remove the valve to clean. I understand there is a jig for this now available (search the archives for "Sankey"), but here are the instructions I post occasionally: I've been kegging in these (Sankey kegs) since about 1982. First, *release all pressure* by pressing down on the ball valve or you'll get your teeth full of a heavy valve and draw tube assembly when you release it. Hold a rag over it or you will get a face full of stale beer. Then, using a small screwdriver, pry out the flat retaining ring. Next, using the jaws of a pair of pliers as a tool, turn the valve to the left maybe 30 degrees, and lift it out. It takes less time to do it than to describe it. Soak the inside with bleach water for a few hours and boil the valve/drawtube to sanitize it. Rinse, fill with beer, reverse the above steps, The hard part is re-installing the flat retaining ring. You have to press down to compress th O-ring (which is under the valve). To do this, I put a plumbing part called a reducing coupler (I think 3/4" to 1/2")) on top of the valve, hook a board under the lip of the keg top, across the coupler as a fulcrum, and sit on the other end. Then I force the ring into its slot by twisting a wide screwdriver blade in the gap against the coupler until it's home. It takes me about 30 seconds. You'll need to get a tap, of course. I keg about half of my beers in these, the rest in 5 gallon Cornelius (soda) canisters, which have the advantage of being easier to fill and seal, using cheaper taps, and taking up less room in the fridge. Of course, they hold less. Good luck. -Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 07:56:30 -0700 From: "Brian Dixon." <briandixon at home.com> Subject: re: bouncing carboys/Fermenting in cornys >Aaron Perry wrote about "the one that got away" (a carboy) in spite of care >to have it and his hand dry to pick it up. We could pick at why it might [rules of safe carboy handling snipped] >I've used carboy "handles"--the neck-gripping type--ever since they became >available in the homebrew market. Never had a problem, never saw any like- >lihood of a problem, and they've certainly helped where I've had to carry >carboys up and down stairs (most of my brewing years). [snip] I _used to_ use the carboy handles also, but don't anymore. I once carried a partially full carboy to the brewfridge, one hand safely underneath the carboy and one hand holding on the carboy handle (orange, plastic-coated metal type) when the d*&#! handle slipped off the top of the carboy. The carboy went crashing into the fridge, luckily not breaking it or the fridge. Since the handle was NOT responsible for the full weight of the carboy, I came away from that experience believing that the handles are too unreliable. Yes, the handle was tightened to the maximum around the neck of the carboy. Personally, I believe that it is not possible to really design anything that is fool proof for carrying carboys. An empty, but wet-necked carboy would also be at risk since the plastic on the handle is slippery when wet. I've gone back to the usual "one hand below and one hand around the neck" method of carrying all carboys, full or empty. Hold them close to your body, lift with your legs, keep your back straight ... you want your back to last for years and years and years of brewing! Also, a good word for the Food Saver: I've also had one for a couple of years and use it for storing hops and many other things. The first one I got had problems ... apparently it had been dropped in shipment to the store or something. The company asked me "What do YOU want to do?" and offered to take care of it in any manner that I wanted. I suggested that I try exchanging it at the store and if that didn't work, then they could ship me a new one and pay for the shipment of the old one back to them. They agreed to all the above. The store did the exchange with no problem and tossed in a couple of rolls of bags on top of that! To both the store (Bi-Mart, Corvallis, Oregon) and the maker of Food Saver ... kudos! Great way of demonstrating good ol' American customer service! Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 11:11:10 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Kegging Bruce Mills writes: >I would like to use the 15.5 gallon kegs, on occasion, to keg my beer. Does >anyone have any experiences or comments they would like to share ? If I were able >to purchase a couple of kegs, a tap, and the tool to access the interior, would I >be able to fill, clean, and sanitize adequately without a commercial cleaning >system ? Any recommendations of a manufacturer that would sell just two new >kegs , tap, and the tool ? Not considering cost, are there other issues I >should know about ? I have kegged (in the past) in 1/2 barrel Sankey's. To remove the spear all you need is a small regular screwdriver to pry out the flat, spring steel retaining ring. Place your srewdriver blade down into the cut out (there are two as I recall) and pry the retaining ring toward the center, up and out. Copious cursing and grunting are known to make the task easier and faster. There are spear removal tools you can buy at places like Rapids or Superior Products, but why waste the money and deny yourself the pleasure of using the wrong tool for the right job? Seriously, it does work. A micro in Vermont I used to frequent did it using the very screwdriver method I describe. Be prepared to go through several screwdrivers though if you do much of it. Once you get the spear removed, you'll want to do the standard cut off the unless you filter, which would make cleanup between fillings much easier. A tubing cutter works great for this. Once you get everything clean, sterilized, and reassembled, you're ready to fill. I prefer to reassemble before filling, although you could fill first. Become familiar with your Sankey tap. Take it apart and reassemble it until you can do it blindfolded. Okay, maybe that's excessive. You'll find that it has a ball that rattles around in there. That's the liquid side. You'll also find that it has a gas check valve in the gas side of things. If you decide on the assemble then fill method, here's what you do. Remove the gas check valve and screw the hose barb back on. This will allow the replacement of the confined "air" space with your chosen liquid. You can transfer via siphon or positive pressure by chasing it with CO2. As I recall, remember this is from memory, you may need to remove the ball from the liquid side, as this may act as a backflow preventer. Again, get to know your tap. With everything back together, tap the keg with your clean and sterile Sankey tap. Hook up your beer hose, fill and remove your tap. The keg is now sealed. Hose off the indented top of the spear lest it grow something nasty. You should put all the pieces back in the tap, tap the keg and force carbonate per your normal regimen. I would not recommend priming to carbonate as you don't want to produce more sediment you'll need to clean out later. If you simply use the keg for serving only, you shouldn't have problems in cleaning. I would clean it immediately after use each time. I got my kegs at a junk yard in New Hampshire. Gosh, what a place--The motherlode with cornies, Sankey kegs, and other ss goodies galore! If you go the junk yard route, check to see if 1) they still retain pressure; and 2) there is still free liquid sloshing around in there (you don't want one that has gunk dried up in there). If these two criteria are not met, move on to the next candidate. I scored all I could carry out of there for scrap value of $10 each. When depressing the ball to test Sankey's, be prepared for a possible shower with less than pleasing smelling liquid. Equipment supplier links: http://www.superprod.com/ http://www.4rapid1.com/ Hope this helps. Rick Foote Yankee in a Strange Land and Owner/Operator Whistle Pig Brewing and Home Remodeling Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 11:02:56 -0500 From: Chad Bohl <Chad_Bohl at digi.com> Subject: low dough-in rate Fellow brewers... Does anyone have any experience with a dough-in rate of about 2/3 qt. water per pound grain? I recently converted to 10 gal batch sizes and brewed the first last weekend. I used a 3 step mash applying direct heat under a 10 gal stainless pot with 1/2" copper manifold/false bottom which rests on the bottom of the mash tun. Severe scorching resulted from grains that wedged themselves under the manifold during the direct heat/mixing. I tried to go slow and stir like a mad man, but things just didn't work out. So I would like to try a 3 step using boiling water additions. Using a 3 step with 1 1/3 qt. per pound dough in, I'd end up with a total volume of water of about 13 3/4 gallons (not including the 20 lbs. or so of grain) overflowing my 10 gal mash tun. If I use about 2/3 qt. per pound, I get around 7 1/4 gallons which is manageable. I'm brewing a wheat with about 1/2 barley and 1/2 wheat malt. My concern is the grist becoming very doughy after the protein rest and/or no priming for conversion. Is the low dough-in (2/3 qt. per lbs.) too low? Has anyone experienced this? Are there any adverse affects? Should I just relax and not worry (I'd have a homebrew anyway)??? Chad Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 12:08:32 -0400 From: "Hampo, Richard (R.)" <rhampo at ford.com> Subject: Sanitizing on the cheap Howdy all! Since traffic is light, I thought I'd ask a question that has been bothering me for a while regarding sanitizing. I use Iodophor for sanitizing carboys, kegs, and buckets. However, being the frugal type, I typically don't fill the whole carboy (or keg or whatever). I put in a quart or two and slosh the stuff around for the specified couple minute contact time. The question is: Does the recommended contact time mean submersion or is "wet" OK? I have not had any trouble with this method for the 5+ years I have been using it but I just wondered if anyone has any data. Please don't reply with "Iodophor is cheap so just waste it like I do" kind of responses but rather help me understand the difference, if there is one, between submerged and just wet. Thanks! Richard J. Hampo H&H Brewing Ltd. Livonia Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 09:06:25 -0700 From: Jonathan Peakall <jpeakall at mcn.org> Subject: RE; Electrical Question Bill asks about adding a "main" power switch to his HERMS: Running a 10 amp breaker for a 2000w heater will probably trip a fair amount. My system uses a relay for the main on/off. That way you can use a regular low amp mini plug, and I can hook the relay to my overheat shutdown. Although in my system the main power relay isn't that important, and could safely be done without, I like having a main that cuts all power to everything instantly. I also use a relay for the heating element (mine is an old fashioned electric RIMS), as my temp controller has a 9v output. If you get a relay for your heating element, get a solid state one, or a mercury displacement type, as regular mechanical relays will burn out in a short time from the typical "fluttering" the temp controller will give it keeping the temp stable. As to wire, I use all 10 gauge on the power side, with soldered connections. Soldering very much improves the connection, crimp connectors can often be the source of problems anyway. And don't forget to run the whole thing through a GFI first! Have fun building yer HERMS. I had so much fun building my RIMS. In fact, after I finish my bio-reactor I may well convert to HERMS. Even though the RIMS works great. And as Wayne or C.D. said (I forget which), you can call your system done when two successive trips to the hardware store cost less than five bucks!! Guess mine ain't *quite* done yet... Jonathan Peakall Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 12:39:31 EDT From: Dalefogg503 at cs.com Subject: Barley wine carbonation I have a barley-wine (OG 1.100 - FG 1.012) that has been in the secondary since November. My question is this, what is the best way to carbonate this? Force carbonate, or is there enough active yeast left to just prime and bottle? And speaking of bottles, I would like to bottle in smaller (6-8 oz) bottles, but all of the sources that I have checked do not have any thing like this. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance for your help. Dale Fogg Pittsburgh, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 11:01:55 -0600 From: "Whyman Dental Lab, Inc" <whymandl at milehigh.net> Subject: Hops and cornie ferments Hello all, I have recently done quite well with some very hoppy beers (MCAB II & World Cup of Beer) which I attribute to the high quality of hops that I get from Just Hops in Colo. Springs. They're at www.angelfire.com/biz/justhops/ or 719-528-5920. For smaller quantities of the same hops, go to www.myhomebrew.com or 719-528-1651. I hope this doesn't sound like a commercial, but these guys have sold me great hops and given me great service. No connection or financial interest; just a very satisfied long-time customer, yadda yadda yadda. On fermenting in cornies, I have been doing primary in two 10 gal. cornies for awhile now and all I did was to cut off 1 in. from the dip tube. I use a quick disconnect on the gas side with a hose into an Oxine solution (blow off tube). I then transfer into three 5 gal. cornies(I do 15 gal. batches). There is no need to cut off the tube in secondary as you transfer very little yeast with the shortened tube in primary. After secondary, I chill to 32F to drop the yeast and transfer very clear beer to a serving keg to be force carbonated. Private emails if you have any ?'s are ok. Roger Whyman Englewood, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 10:03:03 -0700 From: "John Palmer" <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Sierra Nevada Porter Clone Matt asked for a clone recipe for Sierra Nevada Porter (my favorite beer). Here is my recipe that I derived from conversations with the brewer at SN about 6 years ago. Port O' Palmer Malts 6 lbs. of Pale Malt Extract (syrup) 1/2 lb. of Chocolate Malt 1/2 lb. of Crystal 60L Malt 1/4 lb. of Black Patent Malt BG for 3 Gallons 1.079 OG for 5 Gallons 1.048 Hops 1 oz of Nugget (10%) at 60 minutes 3/4 oz of Willamette (5%) at 40 minutes 1/2 oz of Willamette (5%) at 20 minutes Total IBUs 39 Yeast: American Ale Options All-Extract 4 lbs. of Pale Malt LME 2 lbs. of Amber DME 1 lb. of Dark DME. All-Grain 7.5 lbs. of 2 Row Base Malt or British Pale Ale Malt 1/2 lb. of Chocolate Malt 1/2 lb. of Crystal 60L Malt 1/4 lb. of Black Patent Malt I first brewed this recipe just before the Northridge earthquake, and fortunately the fermenter didn't tip over during it. I don't know if it roused the yeast any, but it could have been a factor! Very good beer. John Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 14:29:54 -0500 From: "Chris Schiffer" <schiffer at northernbrewer.com> Subject: Re: Belgian Wit Dear HBD, Interesting to know. Lynne claims she "will not reveal the type of coriander nor orange peel." But I will. The orange peel is Spanish or Haitian grown and the coriander is a good high oil content coriander intended for use in the liquor and liqueur industry. Both can be purchased in 60lb to container quantities from a spice wholesaler in Memphis TN. Celis uses both orange colored bitter orange peel from Spain, and green bitter orange peel from Haiti. The Spanish is considered of better quality but the peel from Haiti is also of good quality. Both are different and some folks do like the peel from Haiti better. The Curacao orange is a bitter orange in the same family as the Spanish and Haitian bitter oranges, and is also of good quality, and again is different, not better or worse. All can be used in brewing with good success. Chris Schiffer Northern Brewer, Ltd. > >------------------------------ > >Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 20:38:21 -0500 >From: "St. Patrick's" <stpats at realtime.net> >Subject: Belgian Wit > > The spices in Celis White and the original Hoegaarden are neither >Curacao orange peel nor the coriander available to homebrewers. Pierre >Celis pointed this out to me a year ago. Pierre was in the shop a month >ago, reminded me again that I was selling the wrong stuff, and arranged for >me to order the coriander and orange peel used in Celis White. Expected >next week. Coriander is graded on oil content. This is the highest grade >coriander. I will not reveal the type of coriander nor orange peel. > >With regards to a Wit recipe, between us girls, you might omit bittering hops. > >Lynne O'Connor > > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 22:39:45 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: re: HSA ( aka hot wort oxidation) Mister (sorry!.... Dr.) Dave Burley had some objections about my ideas and expriences with "the dreaded". It would seem that we do not attend the same church. Dr. Pivo XVII P.S. There is one very good suggestion about changing the name, however.... > > I guess I don't understand the fuss over whether or not HSA (who invented > that stupid term, anyway?) or as I call it in real English "hot wort > oxidation" exists. I would suggest that HSA be translated as "Highly Suspicious Admonitions", and "hot wort oxidation" be translated as.... "hot wort oxidation" The latter should be an exclusive research area for the burley doctor, and not left ubtil he's sure he's right (that may well be within the next eight seconds). we will retain this nomenclature so that, nobody who has read a book published after 1956 will become confused. D.S. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 08:23:38 +1000 From: Graham Sanders <GrahamS at bsa.qld.gov.au> Subject: RE: FWH, an observation. G'day all Thought I throw an observation into the debate of FWH, and a possible explaination, (in part), as to why FWH might work. I ferment in 22 litre soda kegs. One of the many advantages of this is that it concentrates the foam and scum. It makes skimming a real and practical possibility. I skim all my beers, as I am a firm believer that it produces a much smoother beer. Of course this is very subjective. I believe you remove the coarser bittering agents out of the beer that could redisolve into the beer as alcohol is produced. Anyway I made my first FWH pilsner on 10 days ago. I keep routinely going to the fridge to skim it. The funny thing is there is hardly any offending scum on the top, mainly just cold break material, by the look of it (I use a counter-flow cooler). Where in the past I would have to skim after a couple of days and do it 4 or five times, this beer I have only skimmed once, and thats after 10 days. Is it possible that FWH removes this material somehow out of the wort. It may somehow react with the proteins before the hot break forms, or bind with it with the hot break. If you continue this track, this could explain the different flavours people pick up with FWH. Perhaps FWH is performing a "skimming service", giving similar results. MIND THE FACT that this is an observation only. Anyway, this gives the forum another angle to discuss. Shout Graham Sanders Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2000 17:44:50 -0500 From: Jeff Lutes <jlutes at osprey.net> Subject: Re: Electrical Question Ok, Watts=Volts*Amps so, at 110 volts and 2000 watts would mean you would be drawing over 18 amps...Don't think your 10Amp breaker or your toggle switch is going work. You need to either install or have installed a 20Amp breaker in your service panel. (PLEASE be careful if you do it yourself and if you don't know what your doing, pay to have it done...better safe than sorry!) For power cords, look for heavy-duty extension cords that are rated at 20Amps or at Romex and hard-wire it. As for your main power switch, I would look for a single-breaker panel and install a 20Amp GFI breaker. You might get the specs for your coil and take them to the hardware store to make sure it isn't going to surge and trip a GFI but if there's any way possible, use it. It will provide an extra level of security against shorts and shocks. Gemus Brauen Haus Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 15:31:40 -0800 From: "Alex MacGillivray" <sockeye at worldnet.att.net> Subject: English/Scotish ales Does anyone have a recipie for an English or Scotish ale that might have been brewed around the 1890's. Thanks, Alex MacGIllivray brewbeer at usa.net Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 16:34:55 -0700 From: "scott" <Cuckold at cornerpub.com> Subject: Water analysis help please We recently received the latest water analysis from our community well. This is my first attempt at altering brew water chemistry. Presently, I mainly brew Hefe's in summer, and Pilsner's in the fall (all-grain), and charcoal filter all brewing water. Ca++ 6.2 mg/L Mg++ 1.4mg/L Na+ 85mg/L Cl 24mg/L Fl 2.7mg/L Alkalinity as CaCo3 (total alkalinity?) 137mg/L Hardness (CaC03) 21mg/L Sulfate, Iron Not Detected I'm not a chemist, and it has been 10 yrs. since my last chemistry class, so I hope I didn't offend any stoichiometry purists. However, I sure would like your input! I am Assuming that mg/L is roughly the same as ppm (http://web.aircreationtrike.com/jkimball/biologyPages/P/Ppm.html). Reading Dave Miller's "Homebrewing Guide", it would seem that my brewing water (as is) would be better suited for dark beers. However, my wife and I mainly enjoy the lighter, pale beers. For pale beers, would I be better off adding phosphoric acid to reduce the water alkalinity, then increase the Ca++ content with CaCl? Any other comments? Thanks for any help, Scott Richland, Wa. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Apr 2000 09:06:10 +1000 From: Wes Smith <wessmith at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Brassed Off... Lynne O'connor, Wayne Holder, Dave Lamotte (AKA the Vinegar Victualler) and others have been discussing the lead content of brass and the removal of same. I got very curious about this a couple of months ago and went looking through my favorite search engine "Dogpile" Yes folks - that's its real name www.dogpile.com if you want to try it. I came up with a website that has about 40 different alloys of "brass" listed. Turns out that lead is added mostly in the 2% to 5 % range for easier machinability and for lubrication on bearing surfaces. As to the rest of the alloys - I gave up in confusion! Just too many. website is www.matweb.com/GetKeywordMatls.asp I would question the permanence of any lead removing surface treatment though. Just take a look at any brass surface that has been in lengthy contact with beer (like a font setup at a busy bar) There is ongoing erosion of exposed surfaces. Dave - you might like to comment on this one. Oh yeh - I do like your vinegar recipe Dave. I'll give it a try as I feel the need for another batch of honey pickled onions coming on... Wes Smith Mostly 316 Brewery Southern Highlands Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 21:06:59 EDT From: FredScheer at aol.com Subject: Forced Carbonation thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us> wrote: Subject: Fermentor-to-Keg Flavor/Aroma Experiment Troy: I found that forced carbonation will give a change or lack of flavors. For your 5 gallon brew I recommend to use 3/4 cup of priming sugar and let still ferment by ~ 60* F in the closed keg. If you let the keg ferment for 7 - 10 days, than cool to ~ 33 - 35* F for one week and you will have enough carbonation in your brew without flavor changes. Happy Brewing, Fred M. Scheer BOSCOS Brewing Co. Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 21:16:10 EDT From: FredScheer at aol.com Subject: Secondary under pressure Matt Hollingsworth wrote: Subject: Secondary under pressure Matt: As long as you have enough residual sugar left for the yeast to produce CO2 during secondary fermentation, you are fine. If your brews end-fermentation degree would be ~ 2* Plato, I recommend to end the primary fermentation at ~ 3* Plato, cool and transfer in the carboy. This would be enough for your secondary fermentation to carbonate at low temperature in about 3 weeks. Beerfully, Fred M. Scheer BOSCOS Nashville Brewing Co. Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2000 11:43:04 +1000 From: "Kevin Mc Lean" <mcleank at brampton.cqu.edu.au> Subject: Hoarhound and hop extract Dear Brewsters, my wife has recently taken an interest in my brewing (something about it actually being quite drinkable now)and asked me to brew up some hoarhound. I gather it's made from malt, hops and the herb.Could anyone spare me a recipe? On a related subject, could anyone give me some advice about using hop extract oil. Is it useful? How do you use it? In what quantities? Regards, Kevin Mc Lean. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2000 12:39:34 EDT From: Thepfhb at aol.com Subject: Takeing Pilzn and Praha by Storm Greetings HBD-- From a internet bar in Praha directly across from the staropamen brewery a few blocks from our hotel. U Flecku is next. We spent all morning at PU. Got a private tour by the number two brewer!!! PU has enough diacytel even I can detect it. Eric Schoville can taste it, where as i feel it more in the mouthfeel. The unfiltered version served the old fashing way in the celler is more hoppy and a little sharper. almost no diacytel to my tasting. Its there, im sure but disquised by the larger hop presence. We got into pilzen late last night and and stayed at the hotel and drank....about 47 PU's between the 5 of us!!! 3 of us got up to go to the beer museum. very interesting! Staropamen has 3 new beers. a stout called Kelt. Served on Nitro nice roast aroma, smooth flavor, head like a rock. better than the average brewpub but on the mellow side. Velvet is a 12 plato premium amber lager. Most impressive is the Nitro head-so thick you can chew it. Literally like whip cream. left 30% of!! the 1.25 inch head on the bottom of the glass.The have a Staropramen Millenium a premium lager originally brewed in the 1930's as Garnet. Fruity spicy aroma delicately bitter. its ok. best is Staropramen Kvasnicak it is the unfiltered version of the regular Lezak (lager). Koln was awesome. Sion, Gaffel, Alt gelrpuffen, Maltz Muhlen,PJ Frug, Papajoe's,Gilden were all awesome, Sunner tasted more like a pilsner. Dusseldorf Zum Ueriges, Zum Schlussel and Ate Haxe at Im Fuchschen just simply awesome!!!!!!!!! Thats all for now, burp, on our way to U Flecku!!!!!!! Phil Wilcox Poison Frog Home Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 23:15:27 -0400 From: "John Stegenga" <bigjohns at mindspring.com> Subject: Competition Reminder - PEACH STATE Brew-Off 2000 Just a reminder, ladies and gentlemen, that the Peach State Brew-off 2000 is just around the corner! If you're interested in judging or stewarding we need to hear from you soon! It is with your help that we continually make this one of the premier competitions in the Southeast. This year we have LOTS of great prizes! Please excuse this 'psudo-commercial' post. See the website for all the details! http://www.geocities.com/redusc/psbo2000.html Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 04/06/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96