HOMEBREW Digest #336 Fri 05 January 1990

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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Re: Samichlaus (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu>
  Re: I have to worry! I can't relax! (boubez)
  Kegging and time (Wayne Allen)
  Stainless steel Fermenters (drutx!homer)
  re: Too much foam (Frederic W. Brehm)
  Hop growing (was Kegging System) (Chris Shenton)
  CO2 keg system (Chris Shenton)
  Beer names (Bob Devine  04-Jan-1990 1222)
  Samichlaus Bier and wheat conversion (Chris Shenton)
  Samichlaus Bier (Alex M. Stein)
  Wort Chillers in the Summer (Chris Shenton)
  time in keg (Bill Crick)
  Hops source (Mike Northam ext 2651)
  Beer Bottle Bombs (revisited) (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Sparge Clarity (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Slow Starter (Martin A. Lodahl)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 09:11:51 EST From: (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: Re: Samichlaus In Homebrew Digest #335, Marc Davidson writes: > I received as a Christmas present...Samichlaus Beer....Anyone > know anything about this stuff? The reason Samichlaus is in the Guinness Book of World Records is that it is recognized as the world's most potent beer, at about 14% alcohol. While it does seem to possess the characteristics (such as dense body) of barley wine, I believe it is actually a lager of some sort. The beer is brewed in Switzerland by Hurlimann A.G. and is imported to the U.S. by Phoenix Imports. If you call the importers they are usually happy to discuss the beers with you (this is ESPECIALLY true of Phoenix) and can most accurately answer any questions you have about the product. Phoenix Imports can be reached at (301)465-1155. Or write to them at: Phoenix Imports 2925 Montclair Drive Ellicott City, MD 21043 BTW: Phoneix also imports many other interesting brews including Thomas Hardy's Ale, Huntsman Royal Oak, and several lambic ales. Prost! - --Mark Stevens stevens at ra.stsci.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 10:56:14 EST From: boubez at bass.rutgers.edu Subject: Re: I have to worry! I can't relax! I'd advise you to relax and not to worry. First of all, if you say that there is a layer of foam on top, I'd check the seal on the lid, you might not have closed it properly, allowing the gas to escape. Then check the fermentation lock. It could also be just a slow fermentation, that's all :-) ... Whatever you do, DON'T CHUCK THAT BATCH! Give it another week, check the specific gravity and when it's right, bottle it. I bet you nothing's wrong with it. Good luck. toufic Toufic Boubez boubez at caip.rutgers.edu --There's NO OAT BRAN in Motor Oil! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 10:26:16 CST From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com at mcc.com (Wayne Allen) Subject: Kegging and time RobertN (ROBERTN%FM1 at sc.intel.com) writes: > I was wondering how long kegged beer will stay fresh? I have a plastic ball keg (brand forgotten) which I have used for several years. I have had beer stay fresh (or at least great tasting) for over 3 months (which is about as long as my self-control allows). My keg allows the replinishment of co2 pressure via a co2 capsule mount. I know of no reasons (yet) why beer should deteriorate in kegs faster than in bottles, as long as you keep the pressure up. Anyone have different (same) experience? I always bottle several six-packs of each batch I keg. The difference between the bottle and keg versions is alway noticable and interesting. I find the kegged versions to be slightly creamier and smoother, and their tastes evolve differently over time. _ W | Wayne Allen, wa at mcc.com | MCC/CAD, 3500 West Balcones Center Dr., Austin, Tx 78759 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 10:43:39 mst From: att!drutx!homer at hp-lsd.cos.hp.com Subject: Stainless steel Fermenters >From: "Lance "Mr. Yuck" Smith" <lsmith at umn-cs.cs.umn.edu> >I noted that some of the AHA competitors used stainless for fermentation. >Does anyone out there have such a set up? I'm guessing these are specialized >systems, like the barrel system advertised recently in Zymurgy. I have been fermenting in 5 gallon soda kegs for about three years now. The equipment is not specialized, it takes a keg, and some extra keg parts. A description of the equipment and procedure is in the 1988 Special issue of Zymurgy, if there is interest I can post a summary here. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 13:37:06 EST From: fwb at demon.siemens.com (Frederic W. Brehm) Subject: re: Too much foam Several people have complained about too much foam from their keg. Pete Soper says: > [describes how he carbonated a keg of lager] > ... Foam city. Buckets of foam. Foam like > the Three Stooges never created in their worst washing machine disaster. > The only way to deal with it was to fill a large pitcher and then pour > mostly-beer from the pitcher to glasses after the foam had subsided. This sounds just like the beer dispensed from tap in Munich. (I go there on business about twice a year.) Their standard method of drawing a beer does not use a pitcher. It is: 1. Take a clean glass (or mug) and fill it with foam from the tap. This puts about 1 cm (it's Europe, remember :-) of liquid in the bottom of the glass. 2. Set the glass aside for a minute or two. 3. Top off the contents of the glass from the tap. 4. If the glass does not yet contain enough liquid then go to step 2. (Naturally, Germany has a law defining "enough" in this context.) 5. Serve the beer. The whole process takes 10 to 15 minutes, even for those small 250 ml glasses that pilsner usually comes in. If you go into a busy bar you will see 20 or 30 glasses lined up in various states of fill. Pete also said that his ales did not foam very much. This agrees with my experience during my two short visits to England. The bitter came out of the tap with little foam (compared to the lagers in Munich). Of course, the English lagers didn't have much foam either. So, maybe that foam *should* be there! Does anyone know why there would be such a foaming difference between the English and Munich lagers? Did all of you with foam "problems" really do everything right? Fred - -- Frederic W. Brehm Siemens Corporate Research Princeton, NJ fwb at demon.siemens.com -or- princeton!siemens!demon!fwb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 14:19:06 est From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Hop growing (was Kegging System) "2645 RUTH, GUY R." writes: > I'm interested in growing hops in my back > yard. Any ideas as to where to get hop plants? When should they be > harvested? How does one go about processing the flowers such that they > can be added to the wort? Do all varieties grow equally well in all > climates? And, again, how much to they cost? Finally, how many plants > would be sufficient to supply the flowers needed for somebody like > myself, who brews 15-20 batches a year? I'm compiling a mailorder comparison, and one place I've noticed sold hop rhizomes is Great Fermentations of Marin; they also have a book on growing them. I think the rhizomes are only available from Feb to March or something. I'm not even sure what `rhizomes' are, but assume they're like the roots. I've read that you don't grow from seeds 'cause you only want female (flower-bearing) plants, and males would only destroy the bittering power of the plants during pollination. If anyone else has experience, could you fill us in? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 14:41:23 est From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: CO2 keg system a.e.mossberg writes: > Kegs are basically free, if you go with the soda keg system. Figure > about $70 or so for the CO2 tank and regulator. I recommend a double > regulator (pressure gauges for both CO2 tank and keg). Maybe another > $30 or so for hoses, faucet, connectors. Your prices may vary, but > figure around $100 all told to get set up. How are kegs free? Hell, for $100 everyone would do it. Best prices I seem to see indicate about $250 for a single keg setup. Can you point to sources? > BTW, I want to stress using soda kegs, and not attempting to use beer > kegs. And use Coca Cola type kegs, as parts are much easier to come by. > If you can get Pepsi kegs easier, go ahead, but don't mix. You may want > to consider converting the soda kegs specifically for homebrew. This > consists of removing the tube to the bottom and replacing it with a > float system. The advantage is that beer is always taken from just below > the top, resulting in less potential sediment. If you don't, you'll have > to dump (or grin and chew) the first couple mugs worth. Where do you get the conversion parts? Thanks for the info. It's sounding more attractive already. Especially if the kegs can be obtained at minimal cost. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 11:29:03 -0800 From: devine at cookie.enet.dec.com (Bob Devine 04-Jan-1990 1222) Subject: Beer names Part of the fun of homebrewing comes from naming the brew. Here are some names: Brew Haha - *everyone* has likely heard this one Low Brow - play on "lowenbrau" Shake's Beer - after a few you just feel poetic! Overhill Overt Ale - military brew? The Minute Maltz - quickly brewed? Yeast Terday - all my troubles seemed so far away... Havanother Beer - thanks, I will Bob Devine DEC/Database Engineering in Colorado Spring, CO Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 14:26:43 est From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Samichlaus Bier and wheat conversion Marc Davidson writes: > Samichlaus Bier. Apparently it's brewed once a year on December > 6th and then aged for 11 months before being bottled. It's > really interesting stuff but extremely potent - it's also very > clear. ... > Anyone know anything about this stuff? > The bottle actually says one more thing, "Guiness Book of Records". > Not having a book of records, I have no idea why it's in there. It's the most alcoholic beer in the world, about 12% (can't remember if by volume or weight). Be careful with it -- a friend of mine got a DUI last night after drinking just one Samiclaus and one mixed drink. Very tasty beer, but heed the caution on the label about not driving. (BTW, EKU 28 is heavier, but not quite as alcoholic). Check Michael Jackson's ``World Guide to Beer'' for more info. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 10:09:38 PST From: rutgers!retix.retix.com!alexs at hplabs.HP.COM (Alex M. Stein) Subject: Samichlaus Bier In Digest #335, Marc Davidson <hplsdrf!davidson at hp-lsd.cos.hp.com> asked about Samichlaus, since the bottles he had didn't contain very much useful information. I bought a couple about a month ago and the labels they had here (in California) had a lot more information. The beers are brewed once a year on December 6, then aged 11 months, then bottled, then aged another year in the bottle, and then sold. So the bottles I had in December 1989 were brewed in December 1987. The Guiness Book of World Records entry is for "World's Strongest Beer," although as Marc mentioned, it's really more a Barley Wine. I believe the alcohol content is in the 13-15% range. Samichlaus is a vicious beer, not for the faint of heart. It took four hearty souls with full stomachs almost an hour to gulp down a bottle after dinner. The taste is something akin to German Jagermeister, a liqueur with the taste of cough medicine and the kick of codeine. The bottles I had contained the warning: "If you drink Samichlaus, PLEASE DON'T DRIVE." Alex Stein alexs at retix.com "How am I supposed to decide if Jesus is better than Buddha? I can't even decide if Jimi Hendrix was a better guitarist than Les Paul." Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 16:02:44 est From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Wort Chillers in the Summer OK, so I think I'm convinced to build a Wort Chiller -- immersion cuz I'm paranoid about cleanliness. But how well can it work during the summer when my tap water is a good 80 degrees F? Please don't tell me I have to give up brewing -- I've done it in the summer with moderate success, I'm just trying to maximize my odds. Or would a counter-flow device immersed in ice water be the way to go? TIA! _______________________________________________________________________________ Internet: chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov (128.183.10.155) NASA/GSFC: Code 735 UUCP: ...!uunet!asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov!chris Greenbelt, MD 20771 SPAN: PITCH::CHRIS 301-286-6093 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 15:47:41 EST From: hplabs!rutgers!uunet.uu.net!bnrgate!bnr-rsc!crick (Bill Crick) Subject: time in keg I have kept beer in my Roto-keg ( a plastic sphere) for 8 months without any noticable degradation. It did require adding CO2 cartridges periodically to keep the carbonation up. I don't know if this was to replace beer that was being tapped off, slight leaks, or diffuion through the plastic. Bill Crick Brewius, ergo sum! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 13:08:21 PST From: Mike Northam ext 2651 <tektronix.TEK.COM!mbn!fpssun!mbn at RELAY.CS.NET> Subject: Hops source In #335, shoeless joe asks: |>From: shoeless joe <DTG at UMD2.UMD.EDU> |Subject: Please Post! |Message-ID: <M1989$087649.208139.DTG at UMD2.UMD.EDU> |Also, while I have everybody's attention--and I know that this has been |discussed previously in the Digest--I'm interested in growing hops in my back |yard. Any ideas as to where to get hop plants? When should they be |harvested? How does one go about processing the flowers such that they |can be added to the wort? Do all varieties grow equally well in all |climates? And, again, how much to they cost? Finally, how many plants |would be sufficient to supply the flowers needed for somebody like |myself, who brews 15-20 batches a year? I have no experience growing hops myself. Here in Oregon, they are grown on wire trellises supported by telephone pole sized posts! (I guess they are heavy.) The trellises look to be 15 feet or so tall. A source of hop root cuttings is: Nichols Garden Nursery 1190 N. Pacific Hwy. Albany, OR 97321 (503) 928-9280 fax (503) 967-8406 They list three varieties of 'humulus lupulus' (hops) Cascade Tettnanger (lager style) Willamette (English ale style) They are $3.45 per cutting or 4 for $12.95. I have no experience with their cuttings, but their garden vegetable seeds are of high quality and I have been well-satisfied with the company. (I have no connection with them other than as a satisfied customer.) BTW, my wife says she may try growing some hops this year to make aromatic wreaths. (I don't brew beer myself at the present time.) :-( Mike Northam mbn at fpssun.fps.com Home:123 13'W 45 37.5'N (503) 641-3151 x2651 {tektronix}!nosun!fpssun!mbn *FPS Computing has a company spokesperson, and it's certainly not me* A hen is merely an egg's way of making another egg. (Butler) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 15:28:17 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM> Subject: Beer Bottle Bombs (revisited) In HOMEBREW Digest #335 (another outstanding issue), Jon Rodin <jar at hpcndpc.cnd.hp.com> asked: "A fellow homebrewer recently mentioned to me that one has to be careful to use *re-usable* bottles ..... Is there any problem with reusing twist off bottles?" My own personal standard is my estimate of the strength of the bottle. Bar bottles are VERY sturdily built, but some six-pack longnecks, and most twist-offs, are somewhat more lightly constructed. I brew mostly British-style ales with mild carbonation (when it works, that is 8-/), which may be one reason why I've never experienced the Bottle Bomb Syndrome. I've run across a few returnable screw-cap soda bottles (750 ml) that are built like tanks, but I wouldn't re-use a Sierra Nevada bottle. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = pacbell!pbmoss!mal -or- mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 15:38:43 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM> Subject: Sparge Clarity Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 90 16:31:48 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM> Subject: Slow Starter In HOMEBREW Digest #335, Brian Glendenning can't relax: "A friend and I made a pure extract batch following the instructions given by the local brewstore. However, after 2.5 days (when I left home this morning) no strong fermentation has started. There is a light layer of foam on top. I think the relevant details are: 1. dry yeast 2. started in 1.5 cups of sterile wort ... [...] So, my questions are: 1. is this batch dead? time to chuck it and try again? 2. how long should it take fermentation to start? 3. how should I initially get oxygen into the wort?" Dead? I doubt it. What kind of yeast? How warm is the room? I had Doric behave exactly as you describe, and still (eventually) produce good beer. If there WEREN'T a light layer of foam on top, I'd worry. Now that I think of it, the barleywine now in my fermentors has been in there for nearly four weeks, and has a light layer of foam on it, just as it did the day after pitching. I'll rack it this weekend. As a rule of thumb, if I get anything more than light bubbling around the edges within 48 hours, I'm comfortable. A great roaring pile of kraeusen within 12 hours is my heart's delight, to be sure, but not all yeasts work that way. The method described for aerating the wort seems, uh, dramatic to me. Directing the stream from the racking tube down the side of the vessel to produce a fan-shaped pattern usually introduces plenty of air. This should only be done with cool wort, though, unless you wish a practical demonstration of the difference between aeration and oxidation. DON'T WORRY! And if you must worry, DON'T PANIC!! I certainly did, with my first batch, and yet it was quite drinkable. The yeast know best. Trust them. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = pacbell!pbmoss!mal -or- mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #336, 01/05/90 ************************************* -------
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