HOMEBREW Digest #3441 Fri 29 September 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Corporate Content Filters And The HBD (The Home Brew Digest)
  Will the real Boddingtons please stand up! (Brad McMahon)
  Promash (Thomas Rohner)
  Looking for a Bass Clone (Ballsacius)
  re: Alaskan Brewing Company recipes ("Patrick Michael Flahie")
  Promash and double milling ("pksmith_morin")
  O2 purging, covered boils and automation ("Campbell, Paul R SSI-ISEP-3")
  O2 Permeability ("A. J.")
  Re: Sponsorship (Joel Plutchak)
  100% Wheat Beers (Dan Listermann)
  Session Beer (Doug Hurst)
  RRRRRice hulls to the rescue ("Spies, Jay")
  It's a miracle! (Jim Liddil)
  plastics/cooling (Jim Liddil)
  Chest freezer condensation (fridgeguy)
  Sponsorship/tempering malt ("Dave Hinrichs")
  Ion exchange (Dave Burley)
  Race Track Lids ("RANDY ERICKSON")
  High precision scale (LaBorde, Ronald)
  Yeast Culture Questions... ("dr smith")
  RE: Sponsorship - La Borde ("Donald D. Lake")
  Heat transfer/thermodynamics/fluid, and honey (kevin m mueller)
  Prechilling ("Charles R. Stewart")
  mash hopping (Marc Sedam)
  Re: Contradictory Advice--and a proposal (BrewInfo)
  American Brewer ("Richard Sieben")
  GABF (EdgeAle)
  Pro Mash (Darla Elsken)
  World Brewers Forum (Roger Whyman)
  mash hopping (Roger Whyman)

* * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:00:43 -0400 (EDT) From: The Home Brew Digest <hbd at brew.oeonline.com> Subject: Corporate Content Filters And The HBD Many corporations are now using "content filters" on incoming mail. I have already had to unsubscribe all subscribers within two companies because certain keywords triggered their filters, dumping the Digest into email administrator's mail boxes rather than the intended recipient. Not only is this a hassle for the Janitors, it is potentially devastating to those whose mail has been intercepted. Please contain your exuberance in your writings. Certain words for excrement, biological functions and body parts are triggering these filters when found in scanning the HBD. There's really no need at all to contain these terms in your writings. We, the Janitors, have been particularly lax of late in enforcing the "family friendly" status of the Digest. In an effort to prevent even more subscribers from being unexpectantly exposed to their management, the Janitors will attempt to better screen posts to contain such violations of good taste. (Side note: If subscribing to the HBD is a violation of your corporate internet usage policy, I advise you not to. I don't wish the HBD to be responsible for anyone receiving disciplinary action; however, if such action precipitates, it is your own responsibility.) If we aren't successful, the rush of corporations incorporating content filters in their inbound email systems will force us to incorporate similar to automatically scan and refuse any post containing such terms. Thanks in advance for your cooperation. - -- Cheers! The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 15:57:49 +0930 From: Brad McMahon <brad at sa.apana.org.au> Subject: Will the real Boddingtons please stand up! Warren White wrote: >>Close but no Cigar Brad McMahon Awww :-( >The Wheeler and Protz recipe you list above would be for an approximation of >Boddingtons Cask-Conditioned Real Ale >not the tasteless garbage in the all-conquering widget can and keg served >via the dreaded nitrogen dispense (yuuuckkk) don't get me started! Yep, I concede on that point. I had actually forgotten that Boddingtons does come in cask form. I had seen it in a pub when I was in the UK a couple of months back, but I didn't actually try it as there were far more interesting cask beers which demanded my attention. Greg was most probably referring to the keggiflade version by his description though - which as you read in yesterdays HBD, he is adjusting the bitterness back down to a closer approximation of what his wife prefers. > what sets it apart from most of >it's bretheren is that appearance-wise it is far paler in its colour and >tarter in its finish than the norm, probably a fair starting point as a >session beer for the Real Ale Virgin or Lager Lout. In the UK there is a surge of ales that are as pale or even paler at the moment. Particularly so when breweries release their "summer" beers. As you say, many of these are to lure the lager or nitrobeer drinker towards real ale. There has been a downturn in real ale drinking lately but the good news is most breweries are trying to increase their sales of real ale. Theakstons Cool Cask, released this year, is a case in point, a real ale brewed to be served at 10C, backed by lots of advertising, to ween people off of Caffreys et al and on to beers with flavour. >The Wheeler and Protz recipe seems pretty much on the mark for a Cask >Boddingtons Clone, though I'd say that they're being a little >modest/flattering? with the sugar content, you could probably stretch it to >about 10% IMHO. You probably could but I'd prefer it with that little more mouthfeel. The racking gravity would probably be below 1.007 if you increased the sugar level. After saying that, Adnams Bitter is a very nice beer and of a similar gravity and a higher sugar level (about 12%). > It also could almost be made with the absence of or very >little Crystal Malt if any were to be used keep it to the lightest. A pale crystal like Caramunich would work well I think. I would want some crystal sweetness in the beer rather than use just pale malt and sugar. >Someone please remember the name of the Pub???!!! Sorry. Can't help you there? What's the nearest tube station? Cheers, Brad McMahon Aldgate, South Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:33:48 +0200 From: Thomas Rohner <t.rohner at usa.net> Subject: Promash Hi together i'm using Promash for about a year now. I'm very pleased with it. I got some minor updates in that time. For free i must say. I installed them although i never encountered a bug. We (that is "Brauclub Altstaetten" in Switzerland) use it for calculations, receipe formulations hops malt water etc. and of course as our brewlog. We brew all-grain and have very consistent results in lager as well as ale brewing. It comes with a well stocked database off common ingredients, so you don't have to type them in yourself. You can add your own ingredients as well. When i started my brewing i bought a couple different brewing progs, but none was to my satisfaction. This was 4 years ago, so i don't know how they improved. One of these even had a labeldesigner built in, but as i see it almost everyone with a PC has a coreldraw or some other fullblown graphics program. So why invent the wheel again. And at 25$ it's a real catch. The people who program it really care for brewing and brewers. So i really recommend it! Good brewing guys Thomas Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 06:01:00 EDT From: Ballsacius at aol.com Subject: Looking for a Bass Clone I am an all-grain brewer and a friend of mine has asked me to supply the homebrew for his reception at his wedding. I have never tried one and am in a bit of a bind. If anyone has a tried and true recipe that would get me fairly close, I would appreciate it. Private e-mail okay. Thanks! Bob Fesmire Madman Brewery Downingtown, PA Ballsacius at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:50:42 -0400 (EDT) From: "Patrick Michael Flahie" <flahiepa at pilot.msu.edu> Subject: re: Alaskan Brewing Company recipes In HBD #3440, Scott Snyder asks for recipes for Alaskan Brewing Company beers. The book "North American Clone Brews" (Scott R. Russell, Storey Books, ISBN 1-58017-246-6) has recipes for both Alaskan Amber and Alaskan Smoked Porter. All recipes in the book have directions for extract, partial-mash, and all-grain. I have not attempted anything from this book yet, and I'm hoping other HBD'ers who have can chime in about its accuracy. Hope this helps. Patrick Flahie Jackson, Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:02:50 -0500 From: "pksmith_morin" <pksmith_morin at email.msn.com> Subject: Promash and double milling Shane asks for an opinion on Promash. It's been written about before, but I can offer my unqualified support for the product. It's database(s) are extensive, allowing for flexible recipe formulation; it is in short a great workhorse of a brewing program. The designer (Jeffrey Donovan) has been extremely generous with upgrades, etc., and to my knowledge has included as much user input as possible to generate newer versions. For the money I would recommend it highly. I have no official connection to the product. *************** A lot of talk about the benefits of double milling. I understand the fun involved in replicating a known commercial practice and if it helps, great, part of the method mix in making great beer. In my own practice, I have not found a two-pass grind to be necessary - save the flames, please, it's been gone over before, but I achieve a 95% efficiency using a set mill-gap. I am really speaking to newer brewers who may think that they need to go out and buy an adjustable mill in order to get a satisfactory brew. For these folks, who are frustrated and suffering from low yields and efficiencies, I would look to other variables first, namely: What is the quality of your raw material - fresh, plump 2-row, moderately thin husk, or is it stale, mealy (bite it - mush or "snap") and "anorexic?" Careful recirculation? I recirculate for twenty minutes, and do so at the rate of about 1 pint/minute. At Goose Island, where I work, the recirc proceeds for about 40 minutes. Slow, careful runoff? My (14 gallon) runoff goes 90 minutes, or slightly over. Additionally (again, save the flames, it's been gone over before), I do not run a constant sparge, but rather do it in "bursts" and believe that this method effects a wort "pump" of sorts, realizing more extract. Please e-mail me privately if you want more on this technique, or search the archives for "burst sparging." It is a common commercial method, and I saw my efficiency jump dramatically on using it. In essence I am a cheap bastard, and although I initially went through a period where I wanted to go out an buy the latest (you name it), and included wildly complicated malt bills, for a long time now I have wanted to see what I can achieve with utter simplicity - (religiously) careful attention to basic details in technique and materials. Whatever works. Cheers, Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 14:08:23 +0200 From: "Campbell, Paul R SSI-ISEP-3" <Paul.R.Campbell at is.shell.com> Subject: O2 purging, covered boils and automation In HBD #3439 C.D. Pritchard wrote: "especially since I rack the brew into the purged vessel slowly (surface turbulance greatly increases O2 pickup)." I can't help wondering how this ties in with the 'cap on foam theory' for reducing head space oxygen when bottling. Surely we can assist in reducing O2 in the destination vessel by agitating out the CO2 of the solution?? I've done it by accident with no apparent adverse effects. - --------- On boiling pots with the lid on. Tried it last weekend (5/6 covered). My wort looks OK, and the evaporation rate was reduced (I also lowered the heat from the normal full-on setting for good measure). Will report back when the final product is sampled... - --------- On a more humourous note an ideal control circuit came to mind while reading the discussion on control circuits (old AT computers to PICs and STAMPs). Why not use the CPU and driver boards from an old '70s pinball machine!!! The driver board comes ready equipted to fire several solenoids; the latter being supplied as part of the source machine (cheaper than you think in scrap condition)! Advanced tinkerers only please ;) Ah, beer and pinball, the ultimate combination...... Paul Campbell Back up and brewing in Glen Esk, Scotland Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 12:34:55 +0000 From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: O2 Permeability Dan Schultz asks " What am I missing here?". One thing that is missing from the permeation equation is any consideration of the difference in partial pressure of oxygen on either side of the wall. This _has_ to be a factor and the rate of flow must be proportional to it. Thus I suspect the formula got mis-transcribed. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:21:55 -0500 (CDT) From: Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: Sponsorship In HBD #3440, "AYOTTE, ROGER C" writes: >I think the HBD should raise money like all good homebrewing >organizations, have a homebrew contest! At $5 per entry there is >good money to be had. If anyone thinks putting on a homebrew competition at $5/entry is a huge moneymaking proposition, I've got some great investment opportunities available. Just send me your capital and I'll sink^H^H^H^Hinvest it in all sorts of similar great deals. Truth is, it takes lots of time and cash to organize a competition. Our little competition here always teeters on the edge of breaking even, and has occasionally fallen over the precipice. Unless you can manage to get just about everything donated, including ribbons/medals, food for judges, duplication fees for forms, etc., it just ain't easy to recoup the costs. And of course if you're already getting a bunch of stuff donated, just hold a big HDB raffle. I'll donate some beer for the organizers. - -- Joel Plutchak <plutchak at ncsa.uiuc.edu> Losing money hand over beer-mug in East-central Illinois Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:23:14 -0400 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: 100% Wheat Beers Mike Proffit ( mproffit at offo2.epa.state.oh.us) asks about making 100% wheat beers for a friend who is allergic to barley. I have made both 100% wheat and 100% rye beers using rice hulls as a lautering aid. They work great! I have found that using about 15% of the grain bill's wieght in rice hulls seems to lauter just fine. The rice hulls do not seem to contribute anything to the flavor or extract. Dan Listermann dan at listermann.com Check out our new E-tail site at www.listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:55:03 -0500 From: Doug Hurst <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Session Beer I have two completely unrelated questions to throw out to the collective. Could someone please enlighten me as to the meaning of "Session" as in the phrase "... makes a good session beer"? And secondly, is there anyone who has any information about the Homebrew Publicity Campaign that was organized by the late Brewing Techniques people? I sent email to the listed address but it was returned undeliverable. I know that BT is gone but the web site states the following: "...The Homebrew Publicity Campaign (HPC) is unaffected by the closure of Brewing Techniques (for information about the HPC, consult our web page: http://brewingtechniques.com/hpc.html ). The Homebrew Publicity Campaign Corporation exists as a separate, nonprofit entity, with funds in a separate, secure bank account...." I am interested in the idea of promoting craft beer and home beer making to the general public in the Chicago area and this sounds like a very good way to do so. If anyone has any info or was involved in the campaign please let me know. Thanks, Doug Hurst Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 10:03:45 -0400 From: "Spies, Jay" <Spies at dhcd.state.md.us> Subject: RRRRRice hulls to the rescue All - Mike Proffitt asks how to do an all grain 100% wheat mash without it turning into Plaster-of-Paris... Rice hulls, chief, and lots of 'em. I've made 100% wheat mashes before, and with the addition of about 20 - 30% of the grist being rice hulls, the sparge flows normally. I use about 5 pounds of rice hulls for 20 lbs of wheat malt in my 100% wheat Weizen, and the sparge bumps along swimmingly... Just be sure to mix the grist well before your dough in and stir well afterward to ensure a uniform mash composition, the hulls tend to be floaty. I've since cut back to 50% wheat, 50% barley, but that was for flavor considerations, not sparging ones... BTW, rice hulls are a filter medium only, you can leave them out of any gravity or flavor calculations. HTH, Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:18:54 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: It's a miracle! The apparition of the Virgin Mary has appeared in the fallen krausen foam of my recent batch of trappist ale! Surely there are none believers out there. But one must have faith in this mystical event. I have set up a shrine with candles in beer bottles surrounding the apparition. Jim Liddil North Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 07:46:59 -0700 (MST) From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU> Subject: plastics/cooling Water bottles made of polycarbonate can be used if treated correctly. First PC can be autoclaved. So you can simply pour boiling water in the bottle to sanitize it. Or autoclave if you have a big one. :-) Keep in mind that PC develops crazing over time and this is acclerated by high pH solutions. So do not soak your bottles in bleach, NaOH or other high pH solutions for longer than a few minutes. You can follow this with an acid rinse to remove grunge. I use a water jet wand to blast the majority of stuff loose. Because they craze overtime (like all PC) you need to keep an eye on them. but they are relatively cheap. And for me this is better than the various stories of lacerations from glass bottles. Yes all plastics have various degrees of gas permeabiltity. But keep in in mind that the largest amount of gas is going to leak at the seal between the container and the closer, not through the walls of the container. When I lived in Arizona I used to freeze gallon milk jugs full of water. Then I used a swamp cooler pump and basin to recirculate this through my immersion chiller. As the ice melted I removed water and put it in 5 gallon buckets to water the plants with. Excess heat is no longer a problem here in CT. Jim Liddil North Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 10:49:15 -0400 From: fridgeguy at voyager.net Subject: Chest freezer condensation Greetings folks, In HBD #3440, Glen Pannicke asked for help with his moldy chest freezer. As many of you are aware, I recently constructed a cold room for beer serving and storage. I am very pleased with the results of my efforts and have *no* moisture problem in the room. In fact, it removes about a pint of condensate per week from the air inside and deposits in into a two liter catch bottle. Before this I used a chest freezer equipped with a collar and two taps for serving and storage. I used a second chest freezer for fermenting, lagering and storage. The only mold problem I found was in the ferm/lager freezer where airlocks bubbled and I had a few spills from a cobra tap I used to sample from the kegs inside. I think the beer spillage had more to do with mold accumulation than anything else. My serving/storage freezer stayed relatively clean and dry. I believe several factors play a role in my success: My freezers are/were located in a cool, relatively dry basement. I wash the freezer interiors with Lysol disinfectant/cleaner and dry thoroughly with a towel. I use calcium chloride dessicant (Damp-Rid). I minimized the number of door openings on the serving freezer by running taps and CO2 through a collar. I make it a habit to towel off any condensate I see on the cabinet interior walls when I open the door. I made the collar on my serving freezer out of 2" square vinyl downspout material. I mitered the corners and reinforced each with squares of aluminum sheet. I filled the collar with rigid foam insulation and then pop-riveted the corners together. After removing the freezer lid, I applied a thin bead of white silicone seal to the top of the freezer and pressed the collar into the adhesive. I then set the freezer lid on top of the collar to help hold it in place while the silicone set up. I fabricated hinge mount extensions from 1/4" flat aluminum sheet. The extensions are screwed to the original hinge locations. I located new hinge mounting holes by folding each hinge down against its extension and marking through the hinge mounting holes. I removed the extensions and drilled/tapped for the hinge screws. The extensions are reattached to the freezer and the lid hinges are screwed to the extensions. Voila! No permanent modifications to the freezer. Holes for the taps and CO2 lines are easily drilled through the collar. I used a plywood stiffener inside the collar to prevent it from being crushed where a tap shank passes through. I think a short length of PVC pipe inside the collar, with the shank passing through it might make for a better installation though. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net - -- Is your email secure? http://www.pop3now.com (c) 1998-2000 secureFront Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 09:59:39 -0500 From: "Dave Hinrichs" <dhinrichs at quannon.com> Subject: Sponsorship/tempering malt In HDB #3440 Ron La Borde said *********************** Hmm, am I missing something here, or would not the AHA be a likely and appropriate candidate for sponsor. Not manager, but sponsor. This might inspire me to become a member! *********************** I too would sign up for AHA. But in HDB #3437 Christopher Farley the owner of the brew shop I patronize said "Speaking as someone who has expressed a strong interest to Pat in the full $2400 sponsorship, I actually think it is important to be concerned about the potential commercialization of the HBD." It looks like there is at least one potential commercial sponsor. Now do we accept a small commercialization of this fine resource or do we prod the AHA to back up all this talk of promoting home brewing. Since many of the naysayers of the AHA here in HDBland complain that they see little benefit from this would a be good chance for the AHA to make a really good impression. I and surely others would not be agreeable to the AHA having any input other than what a commercial sponsor would receive. In HDB #3440 Dave Burley said regarding malt tempering *********************** If you use a corona type mill, I would guess it might help, as this method of milling tends to be pretty brutal to husks. *********************** As a Corona user I have used the tempering trick it does reduce husk shredding. However it makes the effort to grind the grain much harder. I have stopped tempering as the benefits do not out weigh the extra effort for me, especially when doing 10 gallon batches. Dave Hinrichs Minnetonka, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:06:08 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Ion exchange Brewsters: Bill Frazier asks about ion exchange as a method of altering a wine's acidity. It works, but it took me many years to figure out why east coast wines had this funny, aromatic, almost piney or redwood barrel sub-taste which increased more as I went further north. For a while I condsidered the possibility it was the wooden casks and barrels they were using, but I found it even in modern SS wineries. It finally donned on me. "It's the ion exchange, dummy!" Further north, more of the wine needs to be exchanged to get to an aceptable acidity and therefore these wines taste more of the styrene monomer in the resin. The benzene ring on the styrene monomer in conjugation with the unsaturation of the ethylene substituent group is the source of the "aromatic" - in the chemical sense - character. In water use of these resins, I doubt the monomer is soluble, but the alcohol in the wine likely does solubilize some small ppm. If you choose to do this, I suggest you strip the monomer from the resin by treatment with a higher alcohol concentration treatment than you expect in the wine. I would hold the resin in contact with alcohol - like vodka or grain alcohol - for a week or more before using it. Perhaps more than one alcohol rinse will be needed. Although my intuition tells me it shouldn't be a problem, check with the manufacturer for the maximum alcohol concentration the resin will withstand without softening or you may get a blocked bed. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 08:23:49 -0700 From: "RANDY ERICKSON" <RANDYE at mid.org> Subject: Race Track Lids H. Dowda asks about race track lids: This refers to the shape of lid on your corny kegs, H. Most are oval-shaped I believe, but some of the older ones are indeed shaped like a horse- or auto-racing track (i.e. parallel sides on the long axis, rounded around the short ends). BTW, the last keg I purchased from the HB Shop That Never Makes Mistakes was the race track variety, even though it came with a plastic oval-style lid. With a good, soft keg o-ring, it isn't a problem getting a good seal, YMMV. Randy in Modesto Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 27 Sep 2000 11:14:25 -0500 From: rlabor at lsuhsc.edu (LaBorde, Ronald) Subject: High precision scale This is just too good to miss, from Scientific Amerian, current issue, a scale that can measure the weight of a piece of thread, and tell when it is wet or dry! Might come in handy for homebrewing, but not sure how yet. http://www.sciam.com/2000/1000issue/1000amsci.html Ron La Borde Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsuhsc.edu http://hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 16:09:16 GMT From: "dr smith" <drsmithhm at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast Culture Questions... Ok - I've been reading some yeast culturing documents and some of the facts seem unsanitary. One of the biggest offenders is culturing plates upside down. It seems to me that the open lip of the upturned cover would be constantly collecting nasties around the edge of the culture and contamination inevitable since glass-glass isn't a great seal. Also, after the plate comes out of a pressure cooker/autoclave, it would seem that the route nasties would have to take to contaminate the plate would be much more torturous since they would have to travel both up under the lip, horizontally for some distance and then down onto the media(if the plate is not inverted). Add to that that any condensation on the cover is also sterile, and I can't fathom why we'd want to invert them. Further, when streaking the plate and working in the flame zone, the cover is apparently left wide open on the table to collect dust and other contaminates while we're busy streaking the plate. I know the instructions say to work fast, but my amazing talent for growing mold on agar plates in combination with this opportunity for contamination doesn't make me relax and have a craft/home brew. Do any of you get break material in your plates? I put 1oz DME, 1 cup water, and 1 tsp of agar in a pot an boiled for 10 minutes to combine. I then poured a plate, and pressure cooked for 25 minutes. The surface of the plate is smooth, but the material itself looks crappy because of suspended break material that was generated in the pressure cooker. I know I could pressure can the wort before pouring plates to get the trub out, but it seems like one heck of a lot of work just to make slants/plates. Also(last one, then I'll shut up and wait for the debate, I promise), what do you use for a flame source? An alcohol lamp or candle is called for in some of the web resources I've seen, but they also indicate that the inoculation loop is heated until glowing red. Now, I haven't measured the temperature of an alcohol flame, but I have sure doubts that alcohol burns hot enough to do this. Further, a candle gives off a ton of soot (a carbon deposit, for you aussies - not anything like sook - we should put together a aussie/english dictionary I think, but I digress :) and holds an inefficient flame. Would a bunsen burner not make more sense given the descriptions I've read? - --drsmith _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 12:53:00 -0400 From: "Donald D. Lake" <dlake at gdi.net> Subject: RE: Sponsorship - La Borde Ron La Borde wrote: >Hmm, am I missing something here, or would not the AHA be a likely and >appropriate candidate for sponsor. Not manager, but sponsor. This might >inspire me to become a member! Ron, it makes perfect sense but it would never work. Too many folks on this digest seem to have a vesting interest in criticizing the AHA and Charlie P. and I don't think they are willing to give that up. Of course those same folks probably would never write a check to help sponsor this digest either. And I'll bet the current sponsorship of HBD list bears this out. It's my story and I'm sticking with it Don Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 13:42:01 -0400 (EDT) From: kevin m mueller <kmmuellr at engin.umd.umich.edu> Subject: Heat transfer/thermodynamics/fluid, and honey A few questions for the collective. I'm doing my mechanical engineering (BSEME) senior design on brewing. Can any of you point me in the direction of any thermo/fluid/heat transfer resources on brewing (net or print). I plan to check out the archives, but if you could point me in the right directions (as far as key words, digest numbers, etc) I'd really appreciate it. Also, any good references for design of breweries would also be appreciated. Lastly, I'm about to get A LOT of honey and was wondering if the collective could send me their favorite honey related recipes (beer, mead, cyser, you name it!) Private e-mail is great to keep from cluttering up the band width. Thanks in advance! Kevin Brewin' in Redford, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 13:53:04 -0400 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: Prechilling Peter J. Calinski <PCalinski at iname.com> wrote: >You could use the old manual method like me. First I push tap water >through the immersion chiller. When the rate of cooling slows down, I get >a bottling bucket and add all the ice and even "blue" ice packages I have >handy. Then I fill up the bucket with water. Starting with my last batch, I began freezing my copper pre-chiller coil directly into a two gallon bucket of water. When I get the wort temp down to about 115 or 120 degrees F, I then connect the pre-chiller inline. Just make sure you blow all the water out of the coil before you freeze it (I use my compressor). Chilled my 10 gallon batch minutes. Chip Stewart Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 14:09:31 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: mash hopping I'm quite surprised that you have found little flavor with mash hopping, since it's the exact opposite of my experience with the stuff. There are four reasons why I think you may have had less than optimal results: (1) didn't add enough hops, (2) used leaf hops, (3) used a thick mash, and (4) had a high-gravity mash. Clearly you've used enough hops, so that's not the problem. I've used leaf hops in the mash before and find that pellets work much, much better. I recently did some batches with a very thick mash and found the mash hop flavor and aroma didn't quite come through. Ditto with the high-gravity mashes (but for me HG mashes are always very thick). My suggestion for people who try mash hopping is to do a batch with 100% base malt and a bittering amount you're comfortable with. That will give you the feel for the reaction of mash hops in your system. I'm starting to get a suspicion that water chemistry has an effect, but don't have enough data points. You suggest that people say they didn't notice much with respect to mash hopping...they should post to the HBD! Tell the world what you think, people. Nothing behind the scenes...come out of the closet. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 14:32:42 -0500 (CDT) From: brewinfo at xnet.com (BrewInfo) Subject: Re: Contradictory Advice--and a proposal As you know, I'm not actively reading the HBD, but some articles get forwarded to me occasionally. One such post was the one by John Adsit: >We seem to have some new brewers participating right now, which is >great. I have to wonder, though, what they must be thinking as they >come here for the answers to some of their brewing questions. > >In the past few days they have been told to make sure they keep a low, >gentle boil. They have also been told how important it is to maintain a >hot, vigorous boil. They have been told to keep the lid on. They have >been told to keep the lid off. Actually, I'm surprised that anyone would suggest a gentle boil or to keep the lid on during the boil. Both are great ways to increase dimethyl sulphide (DMS), which lends a cooked corn aroma, in your finished beer. Professional texts are quite clear on this and I have references if you really don't believe me, but the Reader's Digest version is this: Barley malt contains S-methyl methionine (SMM). Paler malts (like Pils) contain more than darker malts like Mild Ale, Vienna and Munich. When your wort is above 140F or so (according to George Fix's PoBS), SMM is readily converted to DMS. As long as the wort is boiling vigorously and the kettle uncovered, DMS floats off into the atmosphere. Actually, it's this DMS that gives a beer wort boil much of its characteristic smell and what usually drives many brewers out of the kitchen by irritated spouses. You can actually taste concentrated DMS by catching some of the condensate from the steam that rises off the boil and tasting it. Another important factor to reducing DMS in your finished beer is quick cooling (any posts in favour of slow cooling ;^) ?). Remember that as long as the wort is above 140F or so, SMM is being converted to DMS. If the wort spends a long time between boiling and 140F, a lot of DMS will be produced that doesn't get a chance to be boiled off. >Someone should advise them to go to the archives, where they will get >tons of important instructions, like: The Internet is a double-edged sword... you get a ton of information, yet you can't always be sure that what you get is correct. >Never use plastic in fermentation--and--always use plastic in >fermentation. This is a long-standing debate. The fact that both sides of the debate have valid points, seems to indicate that you are pretty safe with either. Personally, I ferment in both, but use glass and stainless more often. >Never use dry yeast--and--dry yeast is just wonderful. Which side of this debate you are on depends a lot on two things: if you have been rehydrating the yeast correctly (15 to 30 minutes in 90 to 100F *WATER*) and whether you have tried dry yeast *lately*. When you rehydrate incorrectly or not at all, you *can* have all kinds of problems. In the past (10 years ago), dry yeast was notorious for being infected and very low viability (part of this may have been the fact that 10 years ago, most retailers didn't refrigerate their dry yeast). These days, reputable, brand-name dry yeast is great and makes great beer. I use dry yeast more often than liquid these days, mostly because I don't know until the last minute that I'll be able to brew. When I had the choice, I brewed slightly more often with liquid, but only because there are more choices of liquid strains than dry. For example, there is no dry Weizen yeast. >Hot side aeration destroys your beer--and--hot side aeration is nothing >to be worried about. I think that a lot of this debate depends on whether you store your beer cool and whether you drink it quickly or set it aside to keep for years. If you store it cool and drink it quickly, I believe that HSA may only reduce a little hop aroma and that's it. If you brew big Barleywines you want to taste when your newborns are 21, then everything that will help improve shelf life (like reducing HSA) is important... in my opinion. >Decoction mashing is the only way to go--and--decoction mashing just >creates bother and mess with no advantage over infusion mashing. For some styles (like Dortmunder Export and Bohemian Pilsner), decoction mashing is beneficial and adds some flavour components that would otherwise require untraditional grain bills. I have sucessfully imitated that "decoction flavour" with the addition of small amounts (2 to 5%) of high-melanoidin malts such as DeWolf-Cosyns Aromatic or Weyermann Melanoidinmalt. Back in the days of seriously undermodified malts (ones that I thought to have been extinct, although now I have heard that St. Pat's of Texas has one... imported from the Czech republic, I believe) decoction mashing was the only way to actually get decent extract yield from your malt. You see... modification is *really* just a measure of how much of the protein matrix that binds the starch is broken down. Undermodified malts released only part of that starch, unless you cooked them. Hence, the brewers of old had to do decoction mashes. Alternatively, you could modify the malts more, which resulted in a subsequent loss of some of the potential yield, but allowed you to use a simpler mashing schedule. Many German commercial brewers (the big ones, really) have been requesting more and more modified malts from their suppliers. This is in response to the higher energy costs of decoction mashing. The smaller brewers have had to follow suit and go from triple- to double-decoction or from double- to single-decoction mashes because the malt they get from their suppliers is malted to the big brewers' specs. This all comes from a talk given by a brewmaster from an Austrian (formerly from a Belgian) brewery at the first Spirit of Belgium conference near Washington, D.C. Unless you get some of that undermodified malt from St. Pat's, I wouldn't do any more than a single decoction and only on the styles that would benefit from the increased melanoidins (e.g. Muenchner Helles, Bohemian Pilsner, Dortmunder Export, Weizen, maybe a few others... you could use it in Dunkelweizen, Muenchner Dunkel and Altbier, but the Munich malt in the grain bills of these beers already has quite a bit of melanoidins, so I think the benefit would be less than in the deep golden beers). Incidentally, the notes from this talk were to be published by Brewing Techniques... were they ever? If not, could they be put online? I hope this clears things up more than it clouds them. Al. Al Korzonas, Lockport, IL korz at brewinfo.com http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 14:44:42 -0500 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: American Brewer Hi all! I noticed that recently someone asked whatever happened to American Brewer magazine. Well it is alive and well and the new issue is about to be mailed out. I spoke with Bill Owens today and he said he had been so busy putting together the directory, that the magazine fell behind. He also wanted me to pass along some websites of his as we may all be an interested group, so here they are: http://www.americanbrewer.com http://www.billowens.com http://www.colonialbrewing.com No affiliation, just a subscriber to the mag. Rich Sieben (The lucky brewer) Island Lake, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 17:25:34 -0400 From: EdgeAle at cs.com Subject: GABF Are the HBDers going to meet anyplace specific this year at the GABF? Dana Edgell EdgeAle Brewery San Diego (for one more day) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 20:58:29 -0400 From: Darla Elsken <elsken at home.com> Subject: Pro Mash Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard writes: > 1.) How good is ProMash? I'm looking for Pros and Cons Well, I have been using the evaluation version to see how it works, and I am impressed. Easy to formulate, and it has a ton of very, very handy calculators. The customer support is beyond excellent. I have not even bought it yet but I had some questions, so I emailed Jeffrey Donovan and we exchanged several emails. It is obvious to me he really proud of what he has accomplished but is still looking for input on how to improve it. That said, I do have one complaint (the subject of my email to Jeffrey). It does not really calculate mash efficiency correctly, IMO. It does calculate an effcieincy, but it does not really mean much because it does not take into account the volume of wort either before or after the boil. If that is not important to you, or you are an extract brewer, then I can find no fault in the program. Jeffrey has shown interest in adding this feature to future versions of the program. I know Jeffrey reads the HBD, so I am planting this message in order to further encourage him! Kevin Elsken Little Boy Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 22:01:16 -0600 From: Roger Whyman <rwhyman at mho.com> Subject: World Brewers Forum For all you HBDers that will be going to the GABF, here is an event you might be interested in. I've gone to this little gathering several times and it's always good. Lots of great homebrew and a raffle with lots of good beer stuff. I was given permission to post this info by John Adams, The Brews Traveler World Brewers Forum The Keg Ran Out Club (KROC) in conjunction with the American Homebrewers Association, the Birko Corporation, Pete's Wicked Ale and The Homebrew Hut is once again very excited to bring to the Denver area "Great Beers of the Pacific Northwest" at the Sixth Annual KROC World Brewers Forum (tm). KROC would like to extend a very big thank you to our sponsors and the attendees of past Forum events. This year's event includes a very special friend to The Keg Ran Out Club and the master of ceremonies: Fred Eckhardt. *Geoff Larson President and Co-founder of Alaskan Brewing Co., Twenty-time Great American Beer Festival Medal winner and world-renowned brewer of Alaskan Smoked Porter *Jamie Floyd* Head brewer at Steelhead Brewery and Cafe and designer of Steelhead's award-winning Wheat Wine. If this sounds like fun then don't forget that great homebrewed and commercial beers will be on hand, lots of food, and we will even toss in a few hundred dollars of door prizes. How much will this Forum cost you ask? Nothing! The Forum is and will always be free of charge! So don't forget to attend the Sixth Annual KROC World Brewers Forum (tm). Cost: FREE! When: 8pm-12pm Thursday, October 5, 2000 Where: Denver Marriott City Center 1701 California, Denver, (303) 297-1300 RSVP: BrewsTraveler at adamsco-inc.com <mailto:BrewsTraveler at adamsco-inc.com> (303) 460-1776 (Homebrew Hut) Enjoy, Roger Whyman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 22:08:09 -0600 From: Roger Whyman <rwhyman at mho.com> Subject: mash hopping >From the feed back I've gotten, I sounds like my biggest problem with my mash hopping experiment was that I used whole hops instead of pellets. I'll try again. Thanks for the help. Later, Roger Whyman In the land of the GABF Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 09/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96