HOMEBREW Digest #3446 Sat 07 October 2000

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  Re: Need Advice on York, PA Brewpubs ("Christopher D. Hutton")
  Immersion chiller construction plus test (Jim Wilson)
  Freezers for Fermenting (Tom Byrnes)
  Adelaide Mashers (Darren Miller)
  Biere de Garde - will wonders never cease ("Graham Sanders")
  Cooling a fermenter (Ant Hayes)
  Hops (Elsassa, Mash) (Patrick and Jennifer Fimbres)
  Journada software - me too! ("Dr. Gillian Grafton")
  Virtual Brew (Richard Foote)
  Siphon Tube Placement and Other Vessel Considerations (Rod Prather)
  Chilling/Bean Counters/Chloramine ("A. J.")
  re:jMail order supplies??? ("lauritsm")
  Beer Transport Data Point, et al (Richard Foote)
  Re: Elsassa Hops info. request (Jeff Renner)
  Green Bottles & light (LJ Vitt)
  Another on-line supply house ("Richard B. Dulany Jr.")
  $40 submersible pump/weird fermentation science (Bob Sweeney)
  Welding SS (Tony Verhulst)
  lights on bottles, transport damage and a special Halloween treat ("Richard Sieben")
  Preserving Fruit Flavor ("Peter Zien")
  Immersion Heater Elements (Andy Buhl)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 00:33:35 -0400 From: "Christopher D. Hutton" <bachstar at blazenet.net> Subject: Re: Need Advice on York, PA Brewpubs I just visited the Brickhouse Brewpub last Sunday, & I was thrilled with my meal (Chicken Alfredo), and even MORE thrilled with my beer! They sell sampler packages from (I think) $5-$11. Good tasting beer. AVOID the goofy-looking male college-aged waiter--- WAYYYY too slow. The rest of the staff was on the ball. Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 05 Oct 2000 21:43:35 -0700 From: Jim Wilson <jim.wilson at home.net> Subject: Immersion chiller construction plus test I built a 3/8 copper tube immersion chiller following Steve Scoville's suggestions (thanks Steve!). It cost $18.50 ($.50/foot for the tubing and $6 for 2 clamps, some plastic tube, a barb to threaded converter and a spring tubing bender). Fabrication took about 15 min and was very easy. I used a 1 gal paint can (6-1/2 inches OD) to wrap the coil section and only needed the bender device for the in and out leg bends. As a test, I boiled 2.75 gal of plain water and cooled it with the chiller. Cooling water T in was 71 deg F, water flow rate was 0.63 gpm and I stirred the wort 10 sec every 5 min when I took the temperatures. Here are the results. time, min wort, deg F cooling water out, deg F 0 206 140 5 126 96 10 98 84 15 86 79 20 80 76 25 78 75 30 76 75 This is a useful chiller coil for me. At 20 min the wort is cool enough to rack to the fermenter, dilute and pitch yeast for the ales I like to brew. o \o __o /\ / `\ <> `\ `> `\ > (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) I ride my bicycle to ride my bicycle. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 01:00:06 -0400 From: Tom Byrnes <kmstfb2 at exis.net> Subject: Freezers for Fermenting There seems to be some knowledgable people about freezers/refridgerators on this list so here is my question. I was thinking about buying a small freezer to ferment ales at optimum temperatures. A friend, in my brew club recently bought a Kenmore freezer about 3 months ago and uses a temperatrue controller. Condensation has built up in the mechanical compartment and these wall have already started to rust. The rust is not in the freezer compartment where the fermentors go but inside the back where the motor and innerworkings are. Is this typical of freezers because of the warm temperatures? How could this be avoided? Are fridges better for this job! What is the best system for fermenting ales and a ocassional lager. Would appreciate your thoughts and opinions. Happy Brewing Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 16:09:44 +0930 From: Darren Miller <darren.miller at adelaide.edu.au> Subject: Adelaide Mashers Howdy, A couple of months ago I posted her to see if there were any mashers (full or partial) who would be interested in going in on a bulk grain purchase from Adelaide Maltings. The grain would be at a price of 80c/kg and comes in 20 and 50 kg bags. (This is a pretty good price I might add). Well we nedd 500kg to make the order and currently we have orders totalling 380 kg. In short anyone in Adelaide interested in helping us get to the magical 500 k mark. Various malts are being offered pale/wheat/flaked/crystal/brown/black. Please send me an EMAIL if interested. Thanks Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 2000 20:08:27 +1000 From: "Graham Sanders" <craftbrewer at cisnet.COM.AU> Subject: Biere de Garde - will wonders never cease G'day all l Well I am amazed at what turns up in the post@ my place. Drug induced yeast, fungus from japan, lastest is some weird Middle East yoghart culture. Just waiting for the police to bust me one day. I can see it now, "whats in this small alfoil packet son???. " "Nothing Officer, just some culture, its for making brews with" And with a solid hand on the shoulder "yeh, sure mate, and I am the head of XXXX brewing". Being carted to the police station wouldn't be too bad, as i would love to see their faces when they are proven wrong, but the loss of my culture, well thats hard to take. Anyway, the reason I raise the mail issue is I also get letters (less each year). A bit of back tracking is in order here first. At the beginning of the year I was researching Biere de Gardes (BdG). Anyway in March I investigated various breweries on the internet. You know the sites, full of propoganda, with an e-mail address if you want to ask questions. Now I e-mailed off to quite a few, asking questions how do they make there's. As we all know hardly any responded and the occasional ones that did just gave the promotional line - in other words - NO HELP. So in June I made my BdG from what I had gathered and assumed, (which each month since is just aging beautifully). Well Bugger me (can I say that nowadays) if in August I get a letter from Brasserie Castelain Brewery, makers of CH'TI Biere De Garde. A little late I thought, but then i thought no - they're french and they never give a damn anyway (wait to see who i upset now with that one). Now it was nice they sent me a throw-away (opps there's that aus lingo again - throw-away is those information leaflets everyone gets). Nice of them, but the bastard is in French (strange that). Still it had good pictures, and like any throw-away most likely useless information for the likes of me, so no great loss. BUT (love that word) what I did get was also a letter in the new standard language of "Moral American" (remember now that English is no longer allowed on the HBD.) Now surprisingly, they actually answered some of my questions. Its looks like my receipe and techniques were pretty spot on. Some of the more unusual facts that this brewery said were 1. Fermentation temp is 14 C (but didn't say what type of yeast) 2. Primary fermentation last 8 days 3. Beer is stored in secondary tanks for six to eight weeks 4. Sugar is used as a adjunct 5. Its meant to be drunk fresh. Their beer is not meant to be stored for a long period of time. 6. They do not see the moldy, earthy flavour as desirable 7. Most flavour development (that is Biere de Garde) occurs in the secondary tank 8. Quote - The flavour of a Biere de garde depends on the beer your are making. point 5 and 6 in particular fly in the face of La Cholette, who have the opposite view point. Now here's a possible point for people to consider. I believe there are two sub-styles of a Biere de Garde, each totally different. 1. Light Biere de Gardes - these are designed to be drunk fresh. They have a lighter colour and alcohol content (but still strong), and should not have any off favours what so ever. CH'TI puts themselves firmly in this catergory. 2. Strong Biere de Gardes - these have a longer storage capacity, up to 5 years (vintage on the bottle is common), and develop that moldy earthy taste from whatever the source they come from, (mold, oxidisation, HSA). They typically have a much higher alcohol content and use more darker malts. La Chollette Ambre would fit this bill nicely. Food for thought Shout Graham Sanders oh Now Brad must be trying to train his local wildlife to copy the feared creatures of North Queensland. Seems we have had 2 people taken by White Pointers in his area in the last couple of days. Well thats impressive mate, but we dont have white pointers up here. Seems they are scared of our salties and headhunting cods that prowl our waters. But thats only two, Heard of no others. You need to do better than that to impress me. Oh there was this little gust of wind that passed by too. Blew one mango off the tree. Thought it was local, (smelt of banana esters) but it came from the south. Can't help thinking someones trying to make a point, but can't work out what. Anyway, cane toads are out with the warm weather, so must get hopping, wet seasons not too far away. The Dry Heat has arrived already, (bloody hot and getting more humid by the day). Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:04:50 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Cooling a fermenter I have recently acquired a 60 litre stainless CCV which I am using as a fermenter. The only problem is that it does not fit in my beer fridge. I am not keen to put cooling coils inside the fermenter. I plan to wrap copper tube around the outside, and then insulate this with foam. Using a 20 litre water cold store in my fridge, set at about 5C, I guess that I can probably get my fermenter down to about that sort of level - which is okay. However, I would be keen to get the temp lower for lagering/ filtration. Has anyone been through this process and come up with a solution that does not require construction of a cold room? Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 00:23:14 -0700 From: Patrick and Jennifer Fimbres <patnjen at azstarnet.com> Subject: Hops (Elsassa, Mash) Greetings Brewers, Grant Stott asked about Elsassa hops. This is what I found at Freshops http://www.freshops.com/usda_hop_desc2.html (Kudos Dave Wills, most excellent job!) USDA ACCESSION NO: 21170 SELECTION: Unknown, probably from an old land race in the Alsace region of France GENUS: Humulus SPECIES: lupulus CULTIVAR: Elsaesser PEDIGREE: Unknown METHOD RECEIVED: Rhizomes AVAILABILITY: No restrictions, commercial variety PRIMARY SITE: USDA-ARS World Hop Cultivar Collection, OSU East Farm ORIGIN: Probably clonal selection DATE RECEIVED: Spring 1977 from the Institute of Hop Research, JUNG, Pulawy, Poland REFERENCES: USDA-ARS Annual Report of Hop Investigations for 1977, pp. 33, 35; T. Wagner, ed. Gene Pools of Hop Countries. Zalec, Yugoslavia. 1978. p. 33 MATURITY: Early LEAF COLOR: Medium Green SEX: Female DISEASES: Downy Mildew: moderately resistant Verticillium Wilt: unknown Viruses: unknown VIGOR: Poor COHUMULONE: 26% (4-year range 20-30%) STORAGE STABILITY: Fair to good (retained 63% of original alpha acids after 6 months room temperature storage) OIL: 0.63 ml/100 g (4-year range 0.28-1.13) MAJOR TRAITS: Noble European aroma characteristics; high humulene content (32%), high ratio of humulene/caryophyllene (3.5); contains some farnesene. OTHER INFORMATION: Grown commercially on very limited acreage in the Alsace region of France. Now on the topic of mash hopping. I Have been mash hopping for about 2 years now. I discovered it when researching Belgian styles and techniques. Historically Belgian Brewers used aged hops not only in in the boil for wheat beers (Lambic and Wit), but they also used them in the mash tun as a filtering medium for high percentage unmalted wheat mashes. It seems since they were aged very little aroma/flavor or bitterness would be imparted. Since I ended up with a huge amount of leaf Fuggles from a defunct brewery, I thought I would give it a try. My first time I used about 4 oz for 10 gal in a 50 percent wheat beer. The hops had no effect on either lauterablity, aroma, or bitterness. So next time I tried a pound. Lauterability was improved but still no affect on flavor or bitterness (by now they had a powerfull cheesy/dirty sock aroma). Now I regularly use up to 2 lb for a 10 gal batch (did I mention I had a bail of the stuff). It never occured to me to try fresh hops because I could not tell any difference, it would seem like a waste of good hops. So here's my data point. I know they they were not pellets and they were aged but there was a huge amount. I believe the antioxidants in the hops may help against HSA but the synergistic effect is largely over stated. Thats my experience. I have thought about MH for a while and have some thoeries but thats all for mow. Patrick Fimbres Tucson AZ "Beer, if drank with moderation, softens the temper, cheers the spirit and promotes health." -- Thomas Jefferson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:44:45 +0100 From: "Dr. Gillian Grafton" <G.Grafton at bham.ac.uk> Subject: Journada software - me too! Brett asked for brewing software for the HP Journada. Sorry to take up bandwidth with a me too - but if anyone knows of any software, can they let me know as well. I have a brand new Journada in my possession to replace the last one that got drowned in a sea of coffee. (The sparging some people suggested to cure the problem produced only one bad cup of coffee and one clean but still useless PDA :( ). TVM. Dr. Gillian Grafton MRC Centre for Immune Regulation University of Birmingham Birmingham, UK, B15 2TT Email: G.Grafton at bham.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 08:14:16 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Virtual Brew Hi All, Our Club is doing another Virtual Brew event this Saturday beginning at 1 p.m. eastern. We did our last Virtual Brew this past May in conjunction with Big Brew 2000. We will be coming to you live and in color from the Helen Oktoberfest in Helen, GA this time. We'll have live video and chat so you can ask questions about equipment, brewing process, and Oktoberfest as we go along. We'll be doing an all-grain imperial stout (thanks to those hbd'ers who gave me input on recipes) from first runnings followed by a small beer from second runnings. We feel this this is an especially good way for newbies to interact and learn about each step of the brewing process as they see it happen. It should also be valuable for those wishing to take the plunge into all-grain brewing. We've done an annual brewing demo at the Helen Oktoberfest, for each of the past 5 years. The purposes of the brew demo is to give people an appreciation for how beer gets from grain to glass and generate interest in homebrewing. This will be the first time we've gone "virtual" though. A while back Tom Byrnes had asked about brew stands, lamenting that commercial ones were too expensive and inquiring about homemade versions. Well, Tom or anyone else interested can log in Saturday to see one of four our club built recently. You can ask the guys (us) any questions about how we built them, what materials we used, what they cost, etc, etc. Hope to see you Saturday at 1 p.m. Here's the url: http://linkamerica.net/helenbrew/welcome.html Boy, I hope Pat and Karl get the hbd back up and this gets posted in time. Hope this helps, Rick Foote Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 07:52:11 -0300 From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net> Subject: Siphon Tube Placement and Other Vessel Considerations OK, I'm gonna try this one more time. I am getting ready to build my HLT, MLT and BV. I'm making them from SS "Sankey" kegs I was wondering where to place the siphon tube in the side of the tanks, especially in the MLT. This may seem trivial but if the tube is too far from the bottom it could come out of the wort during mashing of small batches making starting the siphon a problem. If it is too close to the bottom it presents a cleaning problem. In addition I would like as much clearance as possible to make the inside weld. Welding the bottom of the fitting is a blind weld and quite difficult to reach. So with respect to fabrication and cleaning the tube should be far from the bottom and for wide range operation the it should be very close. - -- Rod Prather, PooterDuude Indianapolis, Indiana Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 13:05:24 +0000 From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Chilling/Bean Counters/Chloramine Bill's suggestion re putting a 10 gallon corny full of glycol in a chest freezer has its limitations. The problem is that there is very loose coupling between the freezers evaporator and the glycol. It takes a long time to chill 10 gallons of glycol in a chest freezer and once the glycol is warmed (as by running through an external coil) it will take hours to cool it down enough for it to be used again. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Censorship of incoming e-mail is the fault of neither the bean counters nor the HR people - it is the lawyers keeping the management in perpetual fear that the company can be held liable if some minority or female type overhears the fellows laughing about a piece of email which is "offensive" to them. And of course the corporation can be held liable as has been shown time and time again in the courts. Thank your government for this situation. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * The easiest way to deal with chloramine is to add 1 Campden tablet to each 20 gallons of brew water. Crumble it up and stir it around. The second best alternative is a GAC or GAC/KDF filter. If these are installed as whole house filters you need to worry a little about water from which disinfectant has been removed standing in your pipes. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:23:28 -0700 From: "lauritsm" <lauritsm at email.msn.com> Subject: re:jMail order supplies??? I would suggest Art's Brewing Supplies in Salt Lake City(we aren't all stodgy here). he has a very comprehensive website: www.users.qwest.net/~artsbrew/ His prices are about 20% lower than The Beer Nut here and the service is more personal. He will ship where ever you like and is quite prompt. M Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 11:18:47 -0400 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Beer Transport Data Point, et al Hi, A while back, I explained that I was preparing to transport a cornie of Oktoberfest brew to the site of our club Oktoberfest some 40 miles away. The empty keg was purged with several blasts of CO2 (I know, the purging controversy) followed by venting from the relief valve. The beer was tranferred using CO2 from secondary (carbonated and cold) to the presurized, "purged" cornie using back pressure technique to prevent undue foaming. The beer was loaded cold into the back of my uncovered pick'em up truck. Upon arrival, the cornie was iced down, pressure build up relieved, and then hooked up with about 12 psi for serving from a jockey box. Beer was tasty and almost all gone by the end. It tasted fine, and this was further supported by the amount remaining in the keg. Now, my idea was to take the keg back home and hook it up to my taps for further analysis next to a keg of the same, non-transported brew. Unscientific, side-by- side comparison by yours truly could discern no obvious deleterious effects of transport. In fact, I kind of preferred the transported stuff. Sadly, any further, more scientific testing will have to wait, as the keg of transported O'fest was "kicked" (American keg jargon for "there ain't no more" for those who are American jargon impaired) last night. Doh! Just a data point. On another subject, has anyone ever observed increased hangover effects from beer lines, beer faucets that have not been cleaned recently? While doing sampling of the above brew in preparation for our club Oktoberfest (had to make sure it was OK), it seemed to cause a hangover with as few as two pints the night before. While doing some other cleaning, I decided that my lines/faucets needed cleaning. I boiled some water (couple gallons) and poured it hot into a cornie with some Beer Line Cleaner. I ran this soln., hot through my beer lines. It really cut the build up. I disassembled my faucets and soaked them in this. I then reassembled and ran more soln. through. Following this ,the beer tasted better and I swear the hangover effect was much reduced. Am I imagining this? Anybody have any similar experience? Hope this helps, Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing and Home Remodeling Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:22:16 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Elsassa Hops info. request "Grant Stott" <gstott at primus.com.au> of Geelong Vic. Australia has only been able to find >that Elsassa are a low yielding old French variety. I suspect that this is a spelling variant of "Alsatian," suggesting this is a geographic name meaning that they originated in Alsace. They probably are continental in nature as opposed to English. Jeff - -- -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 08:41:36 -0700 (PDT) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Green Bottles & light In HBD#3445 Warren White asks..... >I generally put my just-filled bottles in a wooden cabinet for about a >week >to carbonate, in this cabinet I usually have a 40 to 100 watt pearl >lightbulb as a heat-source. >My problem being is that half of my batch have been bottled in green >bottles, (it's a Tripel). I know that direct sunlight and even >fluroescent >lights can render beers light-struck and useless in a very short period >of >time. >What about normal light bulbs? I'm presuming that they do not give off >UV >rays, which supposedly do all the damage (just guessing here). I have used incondesent light bulbs to provide heat for a fermenter. The fermenter would be a clear glass carboy. I did not like the idea of a light bulb shining onto the fermenting beer. So, the light bulb is in a vented wooden box. There is a biscit fan pushing air through the box so the heat can fill the space with the carboy. I better descibe the whole story. The carboy and the heat source is in an expired chest freezer. This gives me an insulated box for the whole works. The carboy sits in the freezer at one thermostat that controls the light bulb. It is turned on if the temp is too low. The fan runs if the light bulb is on. I also have used this when the temp of the basement is below 60F. I have also use it to bottle condition when temps are low. I need to give credit to my brewing partner, Bill Van Vugt, for building this. I have not answered Warren's question, but this is how I handled the concern. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:48:36 -0600 From: "Richard B. Dulany Jr." <RDulany at co.el-paso.tx.us> Subject: Another on-line supply house Another mail-order/on-line supply house that I've been quite pleased with is Midwestern Homebrew Supply: http://www.midwestsupply.com Their ingredient kits are particularly nice. Richard "just a customer" Dulany El Paso, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 13:03:03 -0400 (EDT) From: Bob Sweeney <bobsweeney at email.com> Subject: $40 submersible pump/weird fermentation science Steve Johnson opines, "Final solution was to get a $40 submersible pump (which I had bought anyway to pump out my basement when we get those gully washer thunderstorms around here in the spring that dump 5 inches of rain in one day!) that recirculates the ice water through the counterflow chiller and back into the recepticle (a 30 gal. plastic garbage can). " Steve (or anyone), I'm using a $5 drill pump to do something similar but with an immersion chiller however I'd love to have one of those $40 submersible ones. Where did you get yours if you don't mind my asking. ** Recently I did (or tried to do, the jury is still out) my first pilsner after finally acquiring a beer fridge (yippeee). However, probably because my enthusiasm exceeded by experience I goofed when getting my yeast (White Labs pitchable German lager) ready and pitching it. First, after warming the yeast to room temp I pitched into a 1 quart starter at 50 degrees for a couple of days. Even though I saw much less activity in the starter than I'm used to with ale yeasts I pitched into 75 degree wort (10 gallon batch with grain bill consisting of 13 lbs Munstons[sp] 6-row, 1 lb carapils, 1 lb 10L crystal, 1 lb wheat). I immediately put these carboys into a 50 degree fridge where they sat with just about zero activity for almost 3 days. Panic setting in, I started and a day later pitched some Wyeast 1056 ale yeast I'd saved from my last brew, raised the fridge temp up to 68 degrees and a day after that had normal yeast activity. The weird part is the appearance of the wort within the carboy. On top is a normal layer of crud, below that about 1 inch of relatively clear wort, but below that appears to be some new type of substance I've created which looks to be semi-solid, whitish with the consistency of snot. This blob takes up the entire bottom area of the carboy and I'm just wondering what it is or might be (and if its something good, should I patent the process now). Is this just massive cold break? Sound opinions, conjectures, or WAGss about what exactly I've created and what effect this will have on my finished beer would all be appreciated. - -- Bob Sweeney Mobile, AL By all means marry. If you get a good wife, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher. -Socrates - ----------------------------------------------- FREE! The World's Best Email Address at email.com Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 14:48:32 -0400 From: Tony Verhulst <verhulst at zk3.dec.com> Subject: Welding SS How can I tell if a welding shop is qualified to make "sanitary" welds in a stainless steel pot (Volrath)? An advertisement in the yellow pages saying that the shop does stainless steel seems insufficient. Tony Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 17:45:03 -0500 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: lights on bottles, transport damage and a special Halloween treat I have been catching up on my HBD since I was away at the Siebel course (great course by the way) and I see a couple of items I can help with. Warren White asked about potential light damage to his beer in his aging box with a light bulb for heat. If it tastes skunky, then it's light struck. Let us know, maybe the low wattage light will not have much impact, but I would not be surprised if it does as a white light emits a complete spectrum of light, including blue and green, which is what causes a beer to get light struck. I use a temperature controller and a hair dryer in an old fridge in my garage when winter hits! The temperature is controlled and there is no light issue. You could also use a heating pad, just remember to use a temperature controller or you will overheat your beer and heat damage is bad. The folks at Siebel told us that the two most important things that have a negative impact on beer flavor stability are 1)post ferment oxygen pickup and 2)heat. This works me into the question Rod Prather had on transport damage. I asked a Siebel instructor specifically about 'transport damage' since it was being discussed here on the HBD right before I started class. The only possible transport damage is heat or light(assuming light struck damage). Vibration has no impact on the flavor. Of course any oxygen pickup on packaging will prematurely age the beer, but for us homebrewers, where yeast is still present in the beer, the oxygen is taken up very quickly. In fact, if we keep the bottled beer cold (near freezing)with out filtering out the yeast it will be flavor stable for 4 months or maybe even longer. The problem that commercial brewers have is that they have to take the yeast out to make it nice and clear, this also means that they have no real flavor stability and the beer begins to change as soon as it leaves the brewery. This is especially a problem when it isn't kept cold on the grocery store shelves. Now for the Halloween treat........the ghost of HSA. That's right, the ghost, HSA was described at Siebel as a possible brewing ghost (in other words it may well not exist at all). HSA was brought up by Japanese brewers who were making a light, dry lager (remember the 'dry'beers?) The test results were INCONCLUSIVE, but IF there is any impact from HSA, it would only apply to LIGHT DRY LAGER that will be exposed to adverse conditions, like living on a grocery store shelf for a year. I don't know about you, but I don't make LIGHT DRY LAGER, nor do my beers sit on a grocery store shelf for a year. Therefore, if you are like me, you don't have to worry about HSA. Having said that, it certainly won't hurt to avoid HSA, but really, you should concentrate on being more anal about post fermentation aeration. Rich Sieben Bean counter by profession and it's not me, but the LAN Nazi's who don't like you language! Island Lake, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 18:28:00 -0700 From: "Peter Zien" <pz.jdzinc at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Preserving Fruit Flavor I have been studying up in anticipation of making an apple cider. My homebrew club, QUAFF, has organized a cider run to Julian, Ca., where we will fill our fermenters with freshly pressed apple cider. According to The New Brewer magazine, a popular method to sweeten draft cider is to add fresh cider or apple concentrate to the finished alcoholic cider. My questions: 1. Why doesn't the addition of the new sugars (fresh cider or apple concentrate) simply ferment away, since viable yeast likely still exists, leaving the cider unsweetened? 2. Or must steps be taken to arrest the fermentation, like quick chill or filtration? Although I'm talking about apple cider here, the questions seem to apply to preserving fruit flavor in beer as well. (Ever had a New Glarus Apple Ale, Belgian Red, or Raspberry Tart from Wisconsin?) Comments and suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks, Peter Zien Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Oct 2000 22:51:14 -0400 From: Andy Buhl <buhlandr at pilot.msu.edu> Subject: Immersion Heater Elements With a few snow flakes predicted to fall this weekend here in Michigan, I can't help but to consider the options available for indoor brewing. More specifically, I was wondering what electric immersion heater systems others have had success with. I am not necessarily looking for a RIMS type system, just a reasonable replacement for my propane burner that I could use indoors and plug into a standard 120 volt outlet. Other priorities for me would be: -$$$; the cheaper, the better. -Safety. -Simplicity; refer to above. Thanks, Andy Buhl Return to table of contents
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