HOMEBREW Digest #3447 Mon 09 October 2000
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
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THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY:
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Contents:
Moral American, cooling beer, chloramines, rain ("Graham Sanders")
harshness in beer ("Peter gunczy")
Another on-line supply house (RALPHBACON)
Geyser elements in boilers ("Richard Hooper")
Journada software - me too! (Jeffrey Donovan)
freezers and glycol (The Freemans)
freezer condensation (The Freemans)
Submersible Pumps (Stephen Johnson)
Draft Beer and Hangovers ("Peter J. Calinski")
re: mail order supplies (Rama Roberts)
freezer condensation (fridgeguy)
flow-driven stirring for immersion chiller (Roy Roberts)
Spooky Brew 2000 ("Jim Hodge")
Mail order Supplies ("John Book")
Re: Mail Order Supplies ("Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard")
Coriander (Breweler)
yeast concerns (Edward Doernberg)
Nasty, wet spent grains and freezing weather... (Some Guy)
Move status update, Sponsorship (The Home Brew Digest)
good beer scenes (Aaron Robert Lyon)
Another Review of the Lager from Down Under ("David G. Humes")
LINKS - Request for off list responses ("Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard")
30 Green bottles sitting in a box ("Warren White")
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Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 14:36:52 +1000
From: "Graham Sanders" <craftbrewer at cisnet.COM.AU>
Subject: Moral American, cooling beer, chloramines, rain
G'day All
Well I write this (type? ......whatever) with a certain fear of instant
rejection. Contacted my local institute of learning to enquire when the
first courses in Moral American are going to be held. Well the reply was
predictable wasn't it "Sh*t mate, there's no bloody buggers here that are
flamin even close. Christ even the local priest was *#$ at ^%$ rejected." Now
if we can't be ed-u-mar-kate-ed to the new universal language, I guess
you'll have to put us with us rowdy lot til the cows come home, or til when
some-one pays the carton immigration tax and sorts us out.
>>>From: The Freemans <potsus at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Glycol chillers
I have been working on an idea which may have merit for both you as well
as myself as we try to brew here in the hot summer South. It simply
consists of putting a glycol tank (probably 10 gallons as I have a 10
gallon cornie I can delegate to that task.) in my chest freezer and
applying the near 0 degree glycol to one side of a MaxiChiller via a
small pump.<<<<<
Always love hearing you lot talk about the problems cooling this and that
"cause its too hot". And you don't even live in the tropics. Considering we
have only three season up here, Hot &Dry, Hot & Wet and Warm & Dry, well, we
deal with it daily, weekly, monthly, yearly etc. Anyway dear Bill should
take a leaf out of my book. Been investigating something similar for quite
a while, but far more practical. Instead of a keg a glycol, what about
utilizing the freezer
space in a two door fridge. You can use the fridge space for lager kegs and
the freezer space for cooling.
You put a container in the freezer that just fits full of glyco. You then
have two fitting thru the side of the wall with disconnect. The rest you
can guess, pump to cooler and return (or even pump inside freezer
container). Saves all that lifting etc (i am a real lazy sod at the best of
time), and no need ever to open the freezer door, so its works your freezer
most efficiently.
But why have a pump. I think I have (in theory anyway) worked out the bugs
that the whole thing can work on convection only. So no moving parts, just
connect two hoses. (simplisty is so nice). So why is it i haven't done it
yet. Two reasons mainly. The first is money. Dont know about over there,
but glycol is sooooo damn expensive. Been looking for a substitute thats
cheep (like me). Alcohol is a possibility, but what a waste. Then again, I
do have a rather hugh still. Does anyone have alternatives thats cheep and
will go down to -20to-30c and remain nice and watery. And the other, well
anyone following my threads knows - I'm still building my brew room. Thats
first. Then i'll fit it out.
and this again
From: "Russ&Nancy Tjepkema" <russtj at home.com>
Subject: chloramine (again)
Russ raises this, and I have also raised it a number of times but no answer.
lets give it another shot. Everyone says that they are susposed to be bad,
but also the most conservative estimates says that if you stand your water a
few days and boil it for an hour, you will remove all the chloramines etc.
So i'm with Russ in asking (again). If you stand your water, is there any
concern about these nasties to a full mash brewer.
and I couldn't part without a comment
>>>>>From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu>
Subject: Summertime Counterflow Chillers
when we get those gully washer thunderstorms around
here in the spring that dump 5 inches of rain in one day!)<<<<<<<
Now I'm not one to show off, (oh cr*p I am one to show off - big time).
but during our last wet, we had 14 inches a rain in one day (got a bit of
flooding too with it). Some thunder-bumpers were dropping an inch every 20
minutes. It came down so heavy the weight of water was breaking tree limbs.
So yet another killer in North Queensland, seems you can drown standing up.
Shout
Graham Sanders
Oh Our crocs are already back active. Dogs are again disappearing at
regular intervals (one sure sign), and a bloke was saved by his GG when he
was dragged from the mouth of a 15 footer (baby) when it lunged at him.
Lifes back to normal in the tropics. And the Stingers are back next month.
Bring on the tourists and southerners.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 14:42:11 +1000
From: "Peter gunczy" <pcgunczy at primus.com.au>
Subject: harshness in beer
G'Day Beerlings
Thought I might ask if someone knows if there any flavour compromises in
running hot wort through a solderless copper and brass counterflow chiller as
I have detected a harshness in my matured Munich Helles.
Another thing which has come to mind is my sparge procedures. The water here
inSydney is quite soft with a high PH around 8- 9 the total dissolved solids
are around 40ppm.
Calcium is also low at about 7ppm.
I have not treated my mash as the PH has been pretty right and conversions are
quite satisfactory. The sparge water is also not treated, after reading Greg
Noonan's book on Lager brewing he suggests not using more than 25% more than
my mashing volume(12 litres) I am presently using about 22litres to sparge.
Could this be right? or could the addition of salts such as Calcium sulphate
or Chloride stop the extraction of the compounds which are causing the
harshness. I have tried using 50% wine grade Lactic acid which tends to leave
a slight tang. This harshness I am experiencing tends to hide all malt
flavours also.
Many Thanks
Peter Gunczy
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 02:25:36 EDT
From: RALPHBACON at aol.com
Subject: Another on-line supply house
<< Another on-line supply house >>
Try Homebrew Heaven
<A HREF="http://www.homebrewheaven.com/">Homebrew Heaven Brewing Supplies</A>
(800) 850-2739
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 12:08:03 +0200
From: "Richard Hooper" <richard at dundee.lia.net>
Subject: Geyser elements in boilers
I am about 2 weeks behind with the HBD, but recall a query
regarding the suitability/durability of water-heater type electrical
elements in a wort boiler.
I make use of ordinary 220V water geyser elements [4 Kwatt] in my
HLT and kettle. The HLT element is still the same one first fitted
about 2 years ago. However, I replace the boiler element from time
to time. These are cheap nickel-plated copper elements.
I find that the wort tends to caramelise on the surface, requiring that the
element be scrubbed clean after each use. In time, the nickel plating is
worn away, exposing the copper underneath.
Although copper is brewer-friendly, I am not sure if this is an alloy, so I
discard the element at this stage, replacing with a new one, purchased
from my local hardware store. For my RIMS heater I had a stainless steel
element, of exactly the same physical configuration, made up for me at a
factory in Durban. These people will fabricate an element for you, to your
exact specifications [voltage, wattage, size, shape] for a very reasonable
price; about double that of a [cheap] off-the-shelf unit. I am sure similar
factories exist overseas.
However, to bend the element into shape [I purchased one looped back on
itself] it is heated up and becomes blackened from the experience. I was
told this residue was permanent but with a bunch of non-metallic
pot-scrubbing
cleaners and plenty of elbow grease, I was able to get most of it off.
This is the obvious alternative for the kettle as well [possibly 6 Kwatts],
but I
haven't got around to it yet.
Some good news for local beer drinkers: Becks Beer, Germany have bought
into Namibia Breweries, who are now producing Becks under license, also
available on draft.
Regards
Richard Hooper
Dundee, South Africa
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 07:14:57 -0700
From: Jeffrey Donovan <jeffrey at promash.com>
Subject: Journada software - me too!
Regarding the request for some Journada (Windows CE) utilities:
Please feel to try the ProMash Palm Pilot and Windows CE utilities at:
http://www.promash.com/PilotBrew/index.html
The utilities are completely free of charge and fully functional. They run
just dandy on my Journada...
There will be more CE/PP apps in the future...
Cheers!
Jeffrey Donovan
Beer Engineer
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 09:52:31 -0500
From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net>
Subject: freezers and glycol
The general idea is to dedicate a freezer to the glycol tank and its
contents. The cycle time to rechill is of no consequence in that the
glycol will only have to chill one 10 gallon batch of wort at a time.
This one time use and several days to return to freezing should not put
much of a strain on the resources of the dedicated freezer.
As for maintaining the fermentation temp in a SS conical, the
capabilities of 10 gallons of 30 degree glycol will not be challanged to
any great extent. Even if it has returned to 65-70 degrees from cooling
the wort, this is still sufficient to maintain a few degrees of temp
drop in the conical.
We shall see what we shall see if I get the thing up and working. I
promise to post the results to the collective on this board whatever the
outcome.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 10:01:00 -0500
From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net>
Subject: freezer condensation
Condensation in or on freezers is mainly due to the fact that most
manufacturers are just sure that you will have the placed (in this day
and time) in an air conditioned basement or at least inside the house
where it is not subject ot the high humidities we experience outside or
in an un-air conditioned garage.
A neighbor solved the problem by placing one of the "whisper" fans that
are often used to cool electronics so that there was a continuous air
circulation around the compressor. This ended his condensation problems
for the most part.
It is also possible to spray the inside of the compressor area with a
rust preventative prior to turning the freezer on in the first place.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 10:13:05 -0500
From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu>
Subject: Submersible Pumps
Several have asked for specifics on the pump I mentioned in my post a few
days back. I purchased mine from Northern Tool & Equipment. Although I
bought mine through their print catalog, I just did a web search and they
have an online catalog. The particular model that I bought does not appear
in their online catalog, but the basic model is. I paid a bit extra for
mine because it has a float switch attached. The basic model is turned
on/off by plugging it in or unplugging it.
The particulars, cut from their website information: I have no affiliation
with this company, just a satisfied customer.
http://www.northerntool.com
1/8 HP Submersible Pumps 1326 GPH <22 gal/min for those with math hang-ups...>
Portable pump drains pool covers, ponds, flooded cellars and boat bilges.
Also use for powering decorative fountains and waterfalls. Maximum lift is
23'. Screened inlet draws water from within 1/8in. of the bottom. Tough,
non-corrosive polypropylene pump body. 110 Volt, 60 Hz. motor has built-in
thermal overload. Includes 1/2in.,3/4in. and 1in. hose adapters.
Ship Wt. 8.00 lbs.
Item# 10898
Discount Price... $27.99
I guess if a bunch of you folks end up buying these, they'll have to add
something to their description, like, "Great for recirculating ice water
through wort chillers!"
Steve Johnson,
Nashville, TN
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 11:31:20 -0400
From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com>
Subject: Draft Beer and Hangovers
Richard Foote asked?
"Following this(cleaning) ,the beer tasted better and I swear the hangover
effect was much reduced. Am I imagining this? Anybody have any similar
experience?"
One data point I can contribute. My friend refuses to drink any beer on
tap. Bottles only. He claims draft beer always gives him a headache. He
drinks only mega brews. It could be that he is more sensitive I suppose.
Pete Calinski
East Amherst NY
Near Buffalo NY
"You don't buy beer, you only rent it", Archie Bunker.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 09:10:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rama Roberts <Rama.Roberts at eng.sun.com>
Subject: re: mail order supplies
> Does anybody know of stores that do mail order supplies for home brewing?
> I knew of a store called the Gourmet Brewer run by a guy named Dave Bartz.
> Any ideas if they are still in business? Any other stores? TIA
I asked about mail order supplies a couple of months ago, and compiled the
results in a post. If you go to http://hbd.org and follow the
"search" link, search for "rama roberts" will turn up the results I posted.
To add some bias to that information, I would recommend either
http://www.grapeandgranary.com or the HBD's new sponsor,
http://www.northernbrewer.com, but definitely not www.stpats.com (but
that's another story).
- --rama
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 12:42:31 -0400
From: fridgeguy at voyager.net
Subject: freezer condensation
Greetings folks,
In HBD #3446, Tom Byrnes asked for possible reasons for the
condensation he finds in the compressor compartment of a nearly
new chest freezer. One possibility immediately comes to mind.
In order to get good moisture removal in a fridge or freezer, the
evaporator must operate at a temperature below the freezing point of
water. When operated in the manner intended, almost every
refrigerator and freezer achieves this.
When we add an external temperature control to a chest freezer and
raise the operating temperature, the evaporator temperature might
drop below freezing for a time as the freezer compressor runs. As it
does, moisture will condense along the coil path, but the evaporator
will quickly warm to the freezer setpoint once the compressor shuts
off. The moisture collected by the cold evaporator, if frozen, will
now thaw and start to run down the interior walls.
To make matters worse, a chest freezer operating at a higher than
normal temperature often will be loaded with airlock-equipped
carboys. Moisture from the carboys and the surrounding air collects
inside the cabinet.
Most chest freezer interiors are made from folded steel sheet, with
the joints lapped and spot-welded. The joints aren't water-tight.
Moisture that collects in the freezer bottom seeps through the joints
and eventually permates the foam insulation. The moisture might be
finding its way through the insulation and into the compressor
compartment.
I suggest that any freezer used at higher than normal temperatures
should have all interior panel joints caulked with a mildew-resistant
silicone caulk.
As far as what fridge or freezer is best for fermenting... I guess each
person needs to decide this on their own. Ken Schwartz offers plans
for a wonderfully simple fermentation chiller box that might serve
many folks better than a fridge or freezer. Others use commercial
refrigeration units or even walk-in cold rooms. Each person will
have differing needs and expectations a fridge must meet.
Hope this helps!
- ----------------------------------------------
Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo
fridgeguy at voyager.net
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 10:33:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Roy Roberts <psilosome at yahoo.com>
Subject: flow-driven stirring for immersion chiller
Those of us who use immersion chillers know they work
much better when the cooling wort is stirred
frequently, if not continuously. However, not only is
this a tedious task but leaving the boiler lid open
invites airborne contamination of the cooling wort and
may also result in loss of aroma from late-stage hop
addition.
I've thought about inserting a Y-fitting into the
input of the chiller to drive a propeller type
stirring paddle with an inline valve to allow control
of the speed. The output from the propeller couldn't
go back
into the main chiller or there would be no pressure
drop but it could feed a second chiller if we didn't
want to waste the cooling power.
Comments or suggestions? Has anyone built anything
like this?
Roy Roberts
NYC
P.S.
I've tried calling the Little Shop of Hops at
212.685.8334 but get no answer. Is there another
homebrew shop in New York City?
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!
http://photos.yahoo.com/
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 13:31:06 -0500
From: "Jim Hodge" <jdhodge at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Spooky Brew 2000
The Chicago Beer Society announces Spooky Brew 2000, a BJCP-registered
homebrew competition, will be held October 28th at Rock Bottom-Chicago.
Entries are due October 21st. Complete details and downloadable entry forms
are available at the CBS website: http://www.chibeer.org
As always, judges, stewards, and general hangers-on and rubber-neckers are
welcome. As special added bonuses, this year, Spooky Brew is a MCAB
Qualifying event (MCAB competition categories and details are available at:
http://brew.oeonline.com/mcab/mcab3/index.html) AND it is a participant in
the Midwest Homebrewer of the Year Competition (MWHBY competition details
can be obtained at http://www.synsysinc.com/srcoombs/mwhboy/mwhboy.htm)
Questions, comments, etc. should be directed at:
Jim Hodge
Organizer, Spooky Brew Review 2000
Chicago Beer Society
847-679-3829: voice
847-329-8691: fax
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Oct 2000 20:39:40 CDT
From: "John Book" <unrivaled42 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Mail order Supplies
The best mail order prices I've seen anywhere is at Heart's. They usually
have everything in stock and only charge for actual shipping (vs others who
jack up the price with so-called "handling").
Although they do provide a good product at a great price, don't count on
these guys for much friendly advice. It's not their strength.
http://heartshomebrew.com/home_3.html
John
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Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 00:26:07 -0400
From: "Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard" <taliesin2 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Mail Order Supplies
I'd like say thanks to everybody who responded to my inquiry about mail
order supplies. And I also appreciate any and all links posted. :-)
- --
Everything on this earth has a purpose, and every disease an herb to
cure it, and every person a mission. This is the Indian theory of
existence. --Mourning Dove, 1888-1936
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Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 01:43:00 EDT
From: Breweler at aol.com
Subject: Coriander
Aaron Lyon asked about dry-spicing with coriander.
Coriander is awesome as a flavoring in beer. Be sure you enjoy the flavor
before trying it as it can be somewhat assertive. Crack the seeds. If you
are worried about contamination, microwave them for 30 or 40 seconds before
adding to your beer. I have never bothered, and never had a problem (alcohol
in the fermented beer probably inhibits any nasties from growing)
Mark Videan
Breweler at aol.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:07:14 +0800
From: Edward Doernberg <shevedd at q-net.net.au>
Subject: yeast concerns
As was suggested by someone on the HBD (I think) I put some wort in my white
labs vials and grew the yeast that was left. I now have 2 vials with a small
amount of yeast in the bottom in the fridge. I was wondering. How long are
they good for and what size stater should I make as the first step. Can they
go striate to a 300-400ml stater or do they need something smaller (I'm
thinking decant beer and put another dose of yeast into the vials before
steeping up to 300-400ml and then 1.5-2L.
I want to make a scotch ale by a recipe I got from the brews and views
discussion board and was posted by Skotrat.
The recipe is
15L batch
97% pate malt
3% roasted barley
25 IBU northern brewer at 60min
20 IBU northern brewer at 30min
boil 4-5 L of the first runings down to 1/2L and add to boil.
Wyeast 1728 Scottish ale.
Estimate sg 1.80
It is supposed to be similar to Traquar House which I've never had and cant get.
(I'm considering scaling the batch to make 20-25L)
I want to make a batch of something first. I need some stout so I intended
to use this. Is the same yeast suitable and will the dregs from the stout
corse the scotch ale any problems.
Lastly on this point is there a suitable whit labs alternative. The store
that sells Wyeast is in the opposite direction to the one that sells whit
labs and hop plugs, id rather not go to both and I need hop plugs.
Edward
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 11:14:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Nasty, wet spent grains and freezing weather...
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Having been a warm weather brewer all these years, my new brewing setup
has thrown me into a bit of a quandary: What do I do with the spent grains
now that the lawn is frozen? If I try to compost them, they're going to
smell really, really bad when they thaw in the spring - besides, the
compost area of my yard is pretty dangerous in the winter - either so
boggy you can't pull your feet out of the mud, or so icy you'll overshoot
your target by a mile or so. Do I put them in a couple of garbage bags and
hope for the best with the Sanitation Engineering Brigade? Do I spread
them on the street as a traction aid?
There's lots of us in the Frozen Region. What are some of the methods
you've used to deal with this problem?
- --
-
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 11:32:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Home Brew Digest <hbd at brew.oeonline.com>
Subject: Move status update, Sponsorship
Folks,
We are still awaiting Ameritech to schedule an installation date for the
DSL wire itself. AMeritech does not have the best track record for
customer service (in fact, I believe their under a lot of heat from the
governement for the same...), so I'm not holding my breath. O&E has told
us we'd be OK on their line for the 30 - 45 days our new ISP cited for the
time required for the move to take place.
At the time the Digest moves, we anticipate at least one day of downtime,
and then a period of confusion while the domain name is transferred from
O&E's IP address to our own. We will notify the subsciption list and the
web site users the day prior to the move so that you will not be shocked
:-) During the interim period, we will provide the addresses to the server
in <user> at <server>.<ISP Domain> format or see if O&E can redirect the mail
automagically for a period of time.
The response to our financial need for sponsorship has been great! We now
have a sponsor for the Digest mailing, as noted in the header, plus
another at the same level. Yet another has contacted us regarding the
$2400 level of sponsorship. There have been inquiries regarding other
levels of sponsorship, and there have been several donations made as
well. We're in good shape financially for the move!
We will still continue accept sponsors for any level of sponsorship
available, and are noodling out other means of exposure for those who wish
to sponsor this year at the "crown jewel" level. Unfortunately or
otherwise, there is only one mailing of the Digest, and we did commit to
having only one sponsor's "ad" in the header to prevent the blatant
commerciallization of the Digest. Our goal is to have as many sponsor the
Digest as we can to ensure its continuation, rather than to count on
future sponsorship - a bird in the hand...
Thanks for your support!
- --
Cheers!
The Home Brew Digest Janitorial Staff
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:06:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Aaron Robert Lyon <lyona at umich.edu>
Subject: good beer scenes
Hi, I'm a college senior currently looking at graduate programs all over
the country. As I look at various institutions I am also looking at
different towns and though the good beer scene is not my primary concern,
I would appreciate any input any of you may have into the
homebrew/craftbrew experience to be had at the following locations. Any
information regarding brewpubs, micros, festivals, homebrew clubs,
homebrew stores, or anything else is welcomed. Thanks.
1. University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, NC
2. Penn State University at State College, PA
3. University of Minnesota, Twin Cities at Minneapolis, MN
4. University of California, Los Angeles at Los Angeles, CA
5. University of Virginia at Charlottesville, VA
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:20:21 -0400
From: "David G. Humes" <humesdg1 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Another Review of the Lager from Down Under
I also had the privilege to sample Phil's lager last Sunday and was very
pleased to see the pictures Ray posted of his visit with Phil and the
family. Of course, the photo of Phil and the cat was of special interest to
me. Is there some resemblance there between Phil and the cat? From all
appearances the cat's tail did seem to be fully attached without the benefit
of any obvious aids such as Super Glue or Velcro. HOWEVER, some may
remember that the story was indeed not about Phil's cat but the neighbor's.
So, while the photo was convincing, more investigation needs to be done. I
tried to send Ray back for more pictures, but he said I'll have to get my
own.
OK, that's enough digression. I must say that for a light lager the beer
traveled very well. A style such as this can allow so many faults to come
forward due to its delicate nature, but this beer was without any notable
defects. The color was exceptionally pale and the beer was very clear and
appropriately carbonated. The aroma and flavor were both clean and crisp.
Attenuation and bitterness seemed to both be somewhat greater than typical
light lagers giving it a nice balance. In my humble opinion, it is
everything that a light lager is meant to be. Now that you have perfected
this style, what will be next?
Cheer!
- --Dave
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Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 15:15:34 -0400
From: "Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard" <taliesin2 at earthlink.net>
Subject: LINKS - Request for off list responses
Some how for some reason I lost all my links on home brewing (of every
aspect).
I still have the links to the mail order supply stores though. Just lost my
bookmarks. Thanks.
- --
Everything on this earth has a purpose, and every disease an herb to
cure it, and every person a mission. This is the Indian theory of
existence. --Mourning Dove, 1888-1936
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Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 09:03:28 EST
From: "Warren White" <warrenlw63 at hotmail.com>
Subject: 30 Green bottles sitting in a box
As the little guy with the beret says on the WB cartoon...
Sacre bleu! Mon dieu! Le skunk le peu!!!!... At least I hope not!
Thankyou to the individuals who emailed me on my green bottle dilemma.
I have since figured a couple of points, a wee bit of research and
recollection before posting tends to go a long way...
There go the fingers before the brain again! It's a perpetual weakness of
mine and one I must remedy, sometimes the answers are there, I've just got
to look for them.
Fluorescent lights work with phosphor on their inside surface of the tube
which is made to fluoresce by ultraviolet radiation from mercury vapour,
thus being a definite no-no around clear, or green bottles, but for that
matter probably any bottles. Conversely regular light bulbs give very little
if any UV radiation, though I've heard its got a lot to do with different
light waves, colours etc. etc. These theories go a little over my head, but
I've no reason to doubt them whatsoever.
Another point I must make, which escaped me at my previous post. I've put
glass carboys into my lightbox at least 20 times over the years with no
ill-efffects whatsoever, not to my pallette anyway. How this point escaped
me is anybody's guess, definitely gotta de-lead the brass ball valves, or
was it my years of using an aluminium pot? It's gotta be permanent memory
damage, what next oh no! I'm wearing my underwear on the outside, thankfully
they're clean, oops hang on, they've got suspenders! (wrong pair) ;-).
Rob Nelson your friendly neighbourhood beer guide at About.com seems to have
had a guts full of lightstruck beers in Liquor Store refrigerators with
fluorescent light. He's on his soapbox offering a couple of very handy
solutions just stopping short of urban warfare, to the stamping out of
skunky beer, read his column at:
<http://beer.about.com/food/beer/library/weekly/aa081900a.htm>
I'm sure all of us have encountered this problem at some time or another,
I'd like a dollar for every time I've gone to a particular store (who shall
remain nameless) and bought a bottle of Shepherd Neame Original Porter (one
of my favourites) and whoa and behold it tastes like a clear glass bottle of
dog (expletive deleted!)
Another problem with this very same liquor store is how they have the
terrible habit of refrigerating the beer they move quickly i.e.
mass-produced swill and putting their world classics i.e. PU, Chimay,
Budvar, Schnieder Weisse etc. on their liquor shelves rendering them victims
of extreme temperature fluctuations and submitting them to extreme doses of
light. If the beer had four legs, you'd call the animal shelter.
The real beauty of this store is they have the chutzpah of putting a nice
gold sticker on their imported beers saying, "another quality imported
product", proceed to peel this sticker off and what do you find??? Yep, you
guessed it the original use by-date which has run out by up to 9 months!
Sheer cunning eh? I suppose this saves them offering their beers at a
discounted price doesn't it?
It amazes me that this is allowed to happen, if it was a food product
there'd be sheer outrage, but with beer it seems that the vendor can set all
the rules!
One more boot in the guts of this afore-mentioned store, (might as well go
for the jugular here) is their pimply-faced cashiers who proceed to tell you
when you buy a bottle of Budvar for example...
"Ah... excuse me sir, you *DO* know that this isn't the American Budwieser,
don't you???!! I don't know if *YOU'D* like this one sir, it's the
Cheklarvarkian one, NOTE: Czechloslovakian was deliberately mis-spelled
because this is how the little dweeb actually pronounced it!
The crazy part here is this is actually a *TRUE* yarn, honest folks no B.S.
whatsoever!
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
BTW on an unrelated note to any fellow-Aussies out there...
Does anybody have *ANY* idea where I could purchase a counterpressure bottle
filler???? My enquiries down here in Melbourne have drawn nothing but
blanks!
My HB supplier has stopped stocking them because nobody at that time was
buying them, which I suppose is fair enough. I dont really want to resort to
making one unless all other avenues fail!
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Well folks my talking is done, with my undies securely on the outside and my
suspenders firmly done up. I'm off after that Priscilla float from the
Olympics! Wait guys! yooohooo! Me lippie hasn't dried yet!
;-) ;-) ;-) ;-)
Warren L. White, Melbourne Australia
De-leading my frontal lobes, Ouch... My brain hurts.
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