HOMEBREW Digest #3484 Wed 22 November 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Co2 tank pressures ("Scott")
  Temperature controllers and fridges ("Peter Fitzsimons")
  Coffee (Petr Otahal)
  barley flour (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  Speaking for others (John Adsit)
  SWMBO (Beaverplt)
  re: secondary in corny keg (PVanslyke)
  Here is to the janitors.  GREAT JOB ("Peter J. Calinski")
  Drinking Beer In Space ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  Culturing Brettanomyces lambicus ("Fred L. Johnson")
  dry-hop haze/yet another Pivo/Hop Teas/Lo_Grav beers/Logical ("Stephen Alexander")
  Green Bullet ("Keith Menefy")

* * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:19:51 -0800 From: "Scott" <Windsurf at bossig.com> Subject: Co2 tank pressures I have just received a 10 lb tank exchange from the welding company. However, the tank pressure read 500 lbs. Is this really a full tank? I know the tank pressure is not exact, and varies according to standard temperature and barometric pressure. However, I deal with O2 e-cylinders all the time, and a new tank usually registers 2000 psi. Did they give me a low tank? Our outside temperature is near freezing now, if this helps. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 17:25:20 +1030 From: "Peter Fitzsimons" <peterf at senet.com.au> Subject: Temperature controllers and fridges This question is probably best answered by our friendly fridgeguy. If I was to build a temperature controller for my fridge, what is the minimum time that I should make the fridge run for (even if I only need the temperature to drop a small amount) Thanks Peter Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 09:13:57 +1100 From: Petr Otahal <potahal at utas.edu.au> Subject: Coffee All I posted earlier about a stuck stout (thanks again for the replies). When I bottled it I added some coffee to give it a roastier character, ~110g ground coffee beans (the darkest roast I could find) made up with about 900mL of water in a drip filter coffee maker. I calculated this amount to get about the equivalent of 1tsp of coffee beans to each longneck (750mL) bottle. I followed Al Korzonas' instructions and filtered the coffee several times through new filter papers to try to remove the oils, and ended up with about a 750mL of very strong coffee which I bottled hot and let cool in the bottle. I added the coffee to the cooled priming solution just prior to bottling. Well its been just less than a week in bottle and already it tastes bloody fantastic! The coffee has given the beer a dryer roastier character, and a wonderful aroma without destroying the head. Definitely one to do again. Unfortunately I wasn't being overly scientific and didn't bottle any of the beer without the coffee, but who cares when this one turned out so great. Cheers Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Nov 2000 14:06:58 +1100 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at aus.sun.com> Subject: barley flour Woohhooo HBD is back online. Heres something that Graham Sanders has not even had experience with. HAs anyone had any experience with Barley Flour. Found some in a healthfood store and wondered about it. Interested to hear the feedback. Scotty. p.s. just racked a lovey pale ale, boston-ish ale and belgium smoked beer from my scrubbed to buggary plastic fermenters i have had for 5 years now! And so to keep with tradition I took to them with extra strong bleach and gave them another "what for" with the scouring pad after i bottled. Might even give them another go tonight just for the hell of it...scratch goes the scourer scratch scratch scratch! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 13:21:09 -0700 From: John Adsit <jadsit at jeffco.k12.co.us> Subject: Speaking for others In the last HBD, I apologized for the anatagonistic response someone sent to Sean's tongue-in-cheek posting. I dared to speak for the group, assuming that people would have no problem with that. I have been told in rather blunt fashion that I should not have done so. I am therefore going to apologize for speaking for those of you who appreciated the antagonistic reponse. I should have let you speak for yourself. - -- John Adsit Boulder, Colorado jadsit at jeffco.k12.co.us Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 12:12:22 -0800 (PST) From: Beaverplt <beaverplt at yahoo.com> Subject: SWMBO Ayesha is She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed, a 2,000-year-old queen who rules a fabled lost city deep in a maze of African caverns. She has the occult wisdom of Isis, the eternal youth and beauty of Aphrodite, and the violent appetite of a lamia. Like A. Conan Doyle's Lost World, She is one of those magnificent Victorian yarns about an expedition to a far-off locale shadowed by magic, mystery, and death. My God!!! This is my wife! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping - Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 20:17:16 EST From: PVanslyke at aol.com Subject: re: secondary in corny keg Good morning, I have done my secondary in corny kegs for some time. I have one keg with a dip tube that was shortened by an inch or so. For the fermentation lock I used a short piece of plastic tubing that fit over the threaded end when the "gas in valve" has been removed. This short piece of tubing (just a couple inches) in turn is fitted with a standard fermentation lock. After a period of time judged as secondary fermentation is done - it's getting pretty thirsty out! - the beer can be transfered under co2 preasure to another corny for carbination and serving. By charging an empty tank with 5 lbs. Then charging the full tank with the same. Then with co2 still hooked to the full tank attach a connector to the beer out on the full tank to the beer out on the empty tank. Now stick something into the poppet on the gas in on the empty tank. As the gas comes out of the empty tank, the beer is forced in. The shortened dip tube in the secondary helps keep the yeast behind. Cheers, Paul VanSlyke >> brewin' and relaxin' in Deposit, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 10:58:24 -0500 From: "Peter J. Calinski" <PCalinski at iname.com> Subject: Here is to the janitors. GREAT JOB Unbelievable. Back up already. There must be at least 200 companies out there that want (and need) guys like you for Sys Admin. I subscribe to another service that is supposed to send me things daily. The email stopped October 20. I finally got to someone and he said the found the problem on November 15. The emails still have not resumed. This is a "professional" service that charges advertisers (a lot more than Northern Brewer pays--Thanks Northern). Great Job. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 07:41:04 +1100 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Drinking Beer In Space Steve Alexander lists me as the master of "content free" posts. Now I know Steve well and I know he really doesn't mean this. What Steve really means to say is that I don't provide enough scientific input to hold his interest. Does anyone? Steve is a rocket scientist who likes to make a bit of beer (and wine and even a bit of cheese) all of which I presume he takes on his scientific picnics deep into the cosmos. I believe Steve even makes his own rocket fuel. What concerns me is that I suspect he may be confusing making beer with making rocket fuel. I don't believe making top quality beer is at all difficult. It certainly takes some skill and attention to detail, but well within the means of any dedicated brewer. And it doesn't have to be overly scientific. You only have to look at the impact my rice lager (and now my peach wheat beer) has had on the inhabitants of the Southern Highlands of New South Wales. They all look pie eyed, pickled and happy! I wouldn't dare to imagine what the conversation is about when Steve is knocking back a few rounds of his rocket fuel with his mates? You do have mates Steve? But I have to love the fellow. When I recently reported on the good Doc's ill health, Steve was one of the first to enquire "Is he going to make it through Phil"? I must admit my "content free" posts have not been too frequent of late. Perhaps this one will appease Steve, at least for the time being. I have been busy of late fighting with my Croatian neighbour over the back fence who is building a house not to my liking. The last I heard, the courts were ruling that he demolish the whole thing. I forgot to tell him prior to buying his land, you don't build houses next to the Baron without prior consent. When this is all over, I might ask him in to try a rice lager or two. Failing that, he might like a rocket ride deep into space with Steve, with only half the required fuel on board! Happy Drinking Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 23:57:58 -0500 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Culturing Brettanomyces lambicus This is my first attempt at using Brettanomyces lambicus. I picked up a slant from BrewTek and started it in about 10ml of 1.040 wort. I stepped it up to about 100 ml after it showed some signs of life. It has taken about 6 days now and only now am I convinced that it is actually growing and fermenting. I read in Charlie P's "The Home Brewer's Companion" that Brett will be better of with 0.5 Calcium carbonate in the wort since it produces a lot of acid. In fact, Papazian says that the acid it produces can kill the yeast itself. I can't get 5 g of Calcium carbonate to go into solution in 1 liter of wort even with heating. I suppose it would eventually go into solution if the presence of acid-producing yeast. Anyone have any suggestions for the best way to culture this beast? Or should I pitch the yeast into this wort with the undissolved calcium carbonate? - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 03:50:50 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: dry-hop haze/yet another Pivo/Hop Teas/Lo_Grav beers/Logical Nit - gelatin *is* protein. not a protein analog. == The demonic Dom Venezia asks ... >As regards hop teas, does anyone have any idea of the optimal water >treatment for a hop-tea? [...] >Do any of the hop aroma components >extract better at high or low pH? I don't know from optimal, but many of the less desirable hop components are more soluble at higher pH (beta acids, phenolics, lupulones, see M&BS v2...). I've made hop teas from tap water (pH 7.3) and absolutely HATED the result - very grassy, weedy and inelegant. I'd acidify the water to boil pH (<5.3) or even lower before making a tea. I think this is absolutely necessary, not a 'should do' sort of thing. I'm not a big fan of hop teas, tho' I'd use them to correct a problem beer. Most excellent post from Chris Swersey on the matter. == Jeffry D Luck writes .... on Lo_grav brewing ... >for a low-grav batch, >cut your main grain bill (2-row, 6-row, etc) in half, and increase the >specialty grains to make up for the lost flavor and body. Maybe add a >lb of Cara Vienna just to be sure. I agree in principle, but I have a different approach ... My person preferences and practices in brewing had been toward dropping SG for quite a while when I attended an AABG gathering at Jeff'+Nancy R's home last year. Jeff had a nice mild on tap that I recall at about 8P more or less. Tho' not inspiring in itself and having a difficult time standing up against the higher grav and bigger flavored beers that were flowing that evening - still the combination of modest carbonation and balanced hops, malt and crystal flavors left an impression - and a challenge. I think a lot of HBers who post here are still living in the 15P+ world and don't realized that in general 12-13P be a VERY comfortable gravity for most beers, and some absolutely great beers don't break 9P. I know that higher grav beers have an edge in competition (they can easily carry more flavor) but when it comes to having a 2nd or 3rd beer on a weekend evening from the tap in the basement fridge 8P to 10P is a really winning gravity. Well I said it wasn't an inspiring mild, but perhaps I'm mistaken - I've been making 8P-9P milds regularly ever since. It's a real challenge to make a beer with good flavor and body at <9P and I think that taking up this challenge has made me a better brewer. The principles are constant. a/ Sweetness, bitterness and maltiness *must* be balanced.. Where that balance lies depends on style but ... Crystal, caramel, candi (and not mashing temps) add sweetness. Early Hop additions (and dark roast malts) add bitterness. Maltiness is added by all malts especially those with Maillard products. Melanoidin, Munich, Vienna, Dark Crystal. in that order, tho light crystal, vienna and pale too. Probably a primary reason why HBDers seek additional maltiness is they've over-spec'ed the crystal and hops so can't taste the malt. b/ Body is principally due to protein, but also to unfermentable dextrins and the two contributions are definitely distinguishable. Protein adds the texture of a malted milk, while dextrins add a syrupy almost starchy texture (*NOT* sweetness). c/ Alcohol is necessary for that evanescent buzz (recall I'm a card carrying member of DAMM (Drunks Against Mad Mothers)) , but in excess it limits our beer drinking & enjoying capacity, creates the probability of bitter fusels (which I *hate*) and requires us to make the trek toward bed just as the beer-goggles have made all the women, especially SWMBO, exquisitely beautiful. Re Jeffry's comments - I'd scale back the crystal proportional with the SG. Crystal adds immense, often gross sweetness. The hop bitterness and the malt flavor *MUST* balance this sweetness and this is impossible; if you use the same crystal as a 12+P ale and shoot for 8P then you'll need to boost the IBUs past any reasonable level and the malt will be MIA. If you need more maltiness (often welcome) the use the APA trick of replacing crystal with Munich or melanoidin malt. Not traditional in a mild, but not so sweet, and bigger maltiness than crystal or cara-X. A variation which is un-mild-like but which I regularly practice is adding raw barley or wheat and then performing a modest protein rest. This really adds to the mouth-feel & body w/o unbalancing the beer w/ sweet caramels of heavy dextrins (like cara-vienna would). As for the bone-dryness - consider adding a *modest* amount of sugar to the wort and do account for gravity - use this to balance the crystal malt. A 1-2 P addition of cane sugar (0.4#-0.9# /5g) and a good yeast starter should insure 80+% attenuation and that is often key to the dryness. Add crystal at 5% of grist levels like the Brits do, and as Kunze suggests (via Narziss) not at 20%+ level like some APA advocates and HBD boneheads - -- Someone a week+ ago asked about sparging regimes for a Lo-grav brew. You should be prepared use 3.5 to 3.8 quarts of water per pound of grist (7-7.6 L/kg) including mash + sparge water for any beer. If you add 1.5 qt/Lb in the mash then have on hand about 2.3-qt/lb of sparge water. My personal preferences and measures tend to stop the sparge at 3.5-3.7 qt/lb (mash+sparge). If you need to decrease the SG further then by all means add treated water to the boiler to dilute as needed. If you need higher SG then you must decrease the sparge. *NEVER* oversparge w/ greater than 4qt/lb of total water. One other thing about Lo_grav beers - they ferment-out and clear faster than you would expect - which is always a plus as it adds to freshness. == R.C.AYOTTE says ... > What I would like to add is [...], one has to think about how > consistent one's brewing is. Good comment Roger. I like to think my methods produce pretty consistant results but I know that different handling (e.g. keg vs bottle condition) leads to shocking differences. Time alone is a factor that is hard to miss - My beers vary from week 4 to week 16 in ways unimaginable. So even if you make identical wort - HB isn't a static product. Stability over time and handling would be nice - but only if it was also optimal flavor. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:43:16 +1300 From: "Keith Menefy" <kmenefy at ihug.co.nz> Subject: Green Bullet Following my recent post on New Zealand green bullet hops I came across this web site. http://www.nzhops.co.nz/index.htm For more information on NZ hops than you will ever need it is worth a visit. Cheers Keith New Zealand Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 11/22/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96