HOMEBREW Digest #351 Mon 05 February 1990

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Source for Ale (mark gryska)
  starch vs sugar (Pete Soper)
  Cloudy brew (John Greene)
  Beer for St.Patrick's Day.... (GOPINATHRTAR)
  Hazards while Making Mead (Lane_Molpus)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #350 (February 02, 1990)  (Andy Wilcox)
  boiling hops separatly (mage!lou)
  Treacle Priming (Martin A. Lodahl)
  "Why do you homebrew?" Survey Results (a.e.mossberg)
  The Complete Joy of Homebrewing Index (a.e.mossberg)
  Coffee brew (doug)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 09:36:49 EST From: mark at zippy.cs.umass.edu (mark gryska) Subject: Re: Source for Ale In HOMEBREW Digest #349 John Melby asks for the US distributor for the George Gale product Tudor Pale Ale and Horndean Special Bitter. These beers along with Old Thumper by the Ringwood Brewery are imported by Ayer's Rock Ltd Lincon Center MA 01773. This company is closely associated with Alan Eames, "The King of Beers", "The Beer King", or something like that. Last month Chuck Cox posted the results of a tasting conducted by The Boston Beer Society which included these beers. All of these beers received very high ratings. (Tudor Pale Ale:89, HSB Bitter:91, Old Thumper:92 on a point scale to 100) I did not like the Old Thumper as much as the others (it has a peculiar aroma of almonds which my more chemically aware associates attribute to diones; a class of organic compounds). The Tudor Pale Ale and HSB are fine examples of British brewing styles. (How do they get these beers to be so "creamy"?) By all means seek these as well as the George Gale's Prize Old Ale. - mg gryska at cs.umass.edu mark at zippy.cs.umass.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 10:23:52 EST From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com> Subject: starch vs sugar I'm glad this isn't causing Wayne any problems. But I have to insist that there are risks and the next guy might think it OK to use more than 1/2 pound of unmashed pale or lager malt. So with that in mind, here is one more warning based on reading more of Wayne's procedure. It is almost certain that husk material is getting into the boil too. Depending upon the pH there will be a little up to a lot of tannins leached out of the husk material by the hot wort, resulting in a tendency toward astringent, tea-like flavors, and Irish Moss will not deal with this. - --Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 08:01:54 PST From: greene at venice.sedd.trw.com (John Greene) Subject: Cloudy brew The response I received with suggestions was quite impressive and one suggestion was the most common. Not a good cold break. When I think about it this could very well be the problem as I did change the way I cool the wort after a boil (read 'got lazy'). I use my sink to put the kettle in and keep it surrounded by cold water. The volume of water is small enough where it would heat up rather quickly. I used to change it constantly until the wort was sufficiently cool to put into the fermenter. Lately I have been changing it only a few times and just waiting the extra time for it to cool down. This is also a difference in procedures between me and my friend. He uses his bathtub filled with ice water to cool the wort. Armed with this new knowledge, I am going to try another batch this weekend changing only that portion of the procedure to see how much of a difference it will make. Thanks again to everyone that responded! ______________________________________________________________________________ John E. Greene "People are just like frankfurters....You have to decide if you're going to be a hot dog or just another wiener" DLR TRW Systems Engineering and Development Division ARPA: greene at venice.sedd.TRW.COM USENET: ..trwrb!venice!greene Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 10:59 MST From: GOPINATHRTAR at CHE.UTAH.EDU Subject: Beer for St.Patrick's Day.... We ( me and my fellow brewer) are planning to make our own "green beer" for St.Patrick's Day ( march 17th, we think) and would like to know what grade of coloring we add. thanx a lot ashok & chuck ( THE BREWS BROTHERS) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 12:14:10 PST From: Lane_Molpus at NeXT.COM Subject: Hazards while Making Mead Various references suggest sulphiting, rather than boiling, the honey-water when making mead. Allegedly this is to prevent boiling away important flavors from the honey. I've discovered another reason to avoid boiling: safety. Last Sunday I had a large pot of honey water merrily boiling on the stove, and bees started flying down my chimney. Several got in my house before I closed the damper. I didn't realize bees had such good noses. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 02 Feb 90 15:43:05 EST From: Andy Wilcox <andy at mosquito.cis.ufl.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #350 (February 02, 1990) perley at glacier.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley) writes: > Some homebrewers go quite a while without an >infection problem, and then some malt loving bug finds their kitchen and >is encouraged to stay by frequent brewing sessions. No kidding. My first 10 batches: nothing. Since then, in about 90% (!) of the batches, I've gotten this film on the top of the secondaries and in the bottles. If I swirl it up, it kinda clumps, and floats. Pretty Gross, really. I've noticed no contribution to flavor by this beast. But wow! Did it scare me the first time! Any idea what it is? How to get rid of it? -Andy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 13:43:38 MST From: hpl.hp.com!mage!lou at hplabs Subject: boiling hops separatly A few issues back someone (sorry, I don't remember the name) asked about boiling hops separatly from the extract. I've been wondering about this myself, especially for those high S.G. barley wines where all the sugar impairs hop utilization in the boil. I haven't seen any responses posted. Is there anyone out there who has comments on this approach? Louis Clark reply to: mage!lou at ncar.ucar.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 90 17:48 MST From: CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU My brew partner and I have made only 4 batches so far, so we're still wet behind the ears. Each of the previous 3 batches actively fermented for about 7 - 10 days, which sounds normal. In our current batch, the problem is that after an initial flurry of fermentation lasting about 2 days, the fermentation has completely stopped. Let me briefly describe the procedure we followed. First, since we thought it might be a good idea to rehydrate the yeast first (used Doric yeast), we boiled about 1 cup of water, added about 1 tsp sucrose, and cooled it down to room temperature before adding the yeast. It was covered and sat in the small bowl (at room temperature) for about 2 - 3 hours before pitching into the wort. We followed a pretty standard procedure for preparing the wort. Boiled about a gallon of H2O and 2 cans of extract for an hour, added some finishing hops for 2 minutes of the boil, (1st time we've used hops), and poured through a strainer into the primary (only) fermentation bucket. Adding sufficient cool water to make up 5 gal. cooled the wort plenty to allow pitching. Fermentation was visible (via bubbling through the fermentation lock) within 4 hours, much to our excitement. It bubbled like nothing I've seen for two days, after which it slowed down, and within another day, all signs of acive fermentation stopped. The question is, did we do something wrong? Will we still get good beer? Is there corrective action we can take to kick-start the fermentation? (Or Are we guilty of the ultimate sin, needless worrying?) Thanks in advance for any advice, Chuck and Ashok [The Brews Brothers] P.S. Would somebody please send me a copy of the index for Papazian's CJOHB? Thanks. Chuck Coronella CORONELLRJDS at CHEMICAL.UTAH.EDU ========================================================================= -"Sometimes I look at (my skin) and say 'Oh, my God, it doesn't look so good- I have to have more sex!'" -Supermodel Paulina Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 90 01:52:23 mst From: att!beehive!listen at hp-lsd.cos.hp.com remote execution [uucp job beehiveA7ec2 (2/2-22:02:35)] rmail exited with status 1 ===== stderr was ===== usage: mail [-#] address-list Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 90 16:21:03 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <hplabs!pbmoss!mal> Subject: Treacle Priming The recent discussion on corn sugar vs. DME priming reminds me of a question I've always meant to ask: Has anyone out there tried priming with molasses? How did it turn out? How much did you use? What type? I assume it would add a rum-note to the flavor, along with finish notes differing from the initial taste, and perhaps a slight tang. Am I way off base? I'm considering experimenting with it in my next batch of porter. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = pacbell!pbmoss!mal -or- mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 90 21:23:21 EST From: a.e.mossberg <aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu> Subject: "Why do you homebrew?" Survey Results Why do you make beer? A total of 41 respondents. There were a limited number of themes in the responses, which I identified scored with the keywords "alcohol control," "hobby," "price," "quality," "sca," and "variety." These translate as alcohol control - control over the amount of alcohol in the beer, either to make stonger or weaker beers hobby - Doing it as a hobby, possibly in relation to ones "secret dream" or day job. (A number of respondents identified themselves as chemists, or "frustrated chemists," and found homebrewing to be fulfillingly similar) price - price was a factor, frequently in terms of not being able to afford beer otherwise, or being able to drink a better beer than what was affordable quality - to brew the better beer SCA - because of membership in SCA or similar group variety - the ability to brew a wider range of beers than commericially available - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Results of Homebrew Survey Keywords Sole choice First Second Third Fourth alcohol control 1 1 1 hobby 5 12 5 6 1 price 3 4 1 1 quality 3 12 17 3 SCA 1 1 3 variety 4 5 2 Multiple answers: 32 Total respondents: 41 - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- If anyone wants to see the comments made, I will send you the entire file of responses (if no objects to having their responses available). It's about a thousand lines. I make no claims to this being a scientific survey, and clearly some people limited their responses to my suggested reasons why people might homebrew. Thanks to everyone who responded. You also functioned to acid-test a perl script for digesting mailing list articles. aem Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Feb 90 21:37:58 EST From: a.e.mossberg <aem at mthvax.cs.miami.edu> Subject: The Complete Joy of Homebrewing Index Okay, it's now available separately in the homebrew archives. To get two differently formatted versions of Conklin's index for Papazian's The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, send the request send joyindex from homebrew to netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu aem Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Feb 90 12:48:33 EST From: hisata!doug at gatech.edu Subject: Coffee brew Regarding the recent discussion of coffee in beer: I have a friend who makes a very good porter with coffee. He adds 1/4 cup ground coffee to the sparge (for 5 galllons). If you don't know it's in there, you can't identify it, but it adds a certain "darkness" to the flavor. Once you know what it is, you can pick it out. It's a nice touch. Now, if he'd just add some chocolate to that.... Doug Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #351, 02/05/90 ************************************* -------
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