HOMEBREW Digest #350 Fri 02 February 1990

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  DeFalco's (Evelyn, A modified Dog)
  Re: Mash out (Pete Soper)
  Re: puzzling problem.. haze (Donald P Perley)
  RE: Cloudy brew (Dave Johnson)
  Re: Re: Priming (Dr. T. Andrews)
  Toasted Malt (Wayne Allen)
  Siphoning after Dry Hopping (John Polstra)
  re:	coffee in stouts (florianb)

Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com Archives available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1990 2:49:05 CST From: RML3362 at VENUS.TAMU.EDU (Evelyn, A modified Dog) Subject: DeFalco's Good Evening All, In the listing of Mail order places I noticed that my primary shop is Defalco's in Houstan. It's a nice little shop whith a good selection and the people are very friendly and helpful. From what I ahve seen the prices are fairly rasonable (off hand the only thing I remember is the malted grains, 1.09 for most and 1.59 for specialty) I will post address etc. if interested. Oh yeah right next door is a neat little Brewpub, Gingerman's iif you are ever in Houstanand get to Rice village I urge you to check it out. (I shall always have fond memories of that place.. first place I ever tasted Anchor steams christmas ale :_) ) -Michael RML3362 at rigel.tamu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 90 10:02:28 EST From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com> Subject: Re: Mash out The one hazard you risk is a final gravity lower than expected. This is because beta amylase keeps munching away until it is finally denatured by heat or the temperature drops low enough. So, if you spend a long time getting your sparging going, your tun is uninsulated, you don't reheat your recirculated runoff, etc. etc. you will see more dryness than you'd like. I wouldn't sweat it, even though I had an extreme case of this last year (OG 1.050, TG 1.006 - torpedo fuel that only I could drink). Just make yourself a checklist for next time. - --Pete Soper Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 90 10:24:30 EST From: perley at glacier.crd.ge.com (Donald P Perley) Subject: Re: puzzling problem.. haze >I have been having a problem lately that I would appreciate some suggestions >on what to try to correct it. It's cloudy beer. Before everyone starts >saying to be more careful with sanitizing let me explain what the process is >that I go through. > >First of all, I never used to have much of a problem with cloudy beer until >one batch and it hasn't changed since. I thought that my original primary There are a couple of possibilities.. First I will harp a little more on sanitation. You may have a problem with your environment rather than the brewing equipment itself. Some homebrewers go quite a while without an infection problem, and then some malt loving bug finds their kitchen and is encouraged to stay by frequent brewing sessions. Make sure the whole kitchen is cleaned and/or sanitized. counters, sinks,tables, floor, no dirty dishes, take out the garbage and leave the bin out until after you're done, used dish rags or sponges out of the kitchen. From your posting you have probably covered most of this. If you are using grain, some books say not to grind it in the kitchen, because the grinding throws a lot of malt dust in the air which will settle all over the place and keep your bugs happy until next time. Of course, it may not be an infection at all, so look for a change in procedure. The first thing that comes to mind is you may be doing full boils now instead of topping up with cold water in the fermenter. The slower cooling will make your beer hazier. Did you recently start using grain adjuncts or mashing? Incomplete conversion or not doing protein rests in the mash will haze things up. If you are doing single stage, you might want to try 2 stage. It has a little more chance of infection, but barring that the beer usually comes out clearer. Another possibility: some municiple water supplies vary a lot from one season to the next as they put in more chemicals to deal with algea blooms, or the reservoir gets low and they go to another source. Is your friend on the same system? Try some of his water. -don perley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 90 08:56:01 mst From: Dave Johnson <davej at hpdml90> Subject: RE: Cloudy brew Full-Name: Dave Johnson John E. Greene writes: >I have been having a problem lately that I would appreciate >some suggestions on what to try to correct it. It's cloudy beer. > . > . >I use gypsum in the water..... ^^^^^^ I have never had cloudy beer 'til I brewed a batch and added two teaspoons of gypsum (just to see what would result) at the start of the boil. The result was cloudy beer with a asprin-like aftertaste -- yeak! After 4 weeks in the bottle, the aftertaste is starting to soften and the beer is becoming more translucent, but not clear. Also, I follow very sanitary procedures. This is the *last* time that I add gypsum to my beer. +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Dave 'sorry, no cute signiture here' Johnson | +-------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 31 Jan 90 21:21:27 EST From: Dr. T. Andrews <ki4pv!tanner at uunet.UU.NET> Subject: Re: Re: Priming ) [ prime with more dry malt than corn sugar; 3/4 made flat beer ] I've been bottling with 1/2 to 3/4 cup of DME (boiled in about a pint of water) for bottling, and it provides plenty of carbonation. This is for the standard 5-gallon batch in the standard 12-oz bottles and pint bottles. The storage temperature of the bottles makes a big difference, though. Leave ale in a cold (~60F) closet for a month, drag out a bottle, and you may have flat beer. Stash the rest of the bottles in a warm place for a week or so, and your beer carbonates and is nice. - -- ...!{bikini.cis.ufl.edu allegra attctc bpa uunet!cdin-1}!ki4pv!tanner Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 90 10:54:15 CST From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com at mcc.com (Wayne Allen) Subject: Toasted Malt Pete Soper writes: >Is this really unmashed lager or pale malt? >If so, surely this puts raw starch and complex proteins into the >final beer, creating the potential for permanent haze, infection >by starch gobbling creatures, etc? Thanks for your concern, Pete. My recipe refers to toasted pale malt (sorry for being imprecise, my children trained me that way :^). It remains in the water from cold start up to the boil, and is then removed (as outlined in Papazian). I've used this in 8 batches so far with no noticable effect except flavor. I use Irish Moss in the boil, which binds the proteins (or is it the tanins?). As to infections, when you have 6 pounds of sugar, what's a few grams of starch? Besides, it makes your kitchen smell good! wayne ("what, me worry?") allen Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 90 11:03:41 PST From: hpl.hp.com!polstra!jdp at hplabs (John Polstra) Subject: Siphoning after Dry Hopping [Er, did I say "siphoning"? How un-brewerlike of me. I meant "racking" of course. Gotta watch that, somebody might figure out what we're talking about in this group.] In HBD #348, Stuart Crawford <stuart at ads.com> asks: > I'm making my first attempt at dry hopping, and have added the hops to > the secondary fermenter. My plan is to leave the wort in the secondary > for about a week, then I'll bottle. Should I attempt to filter out the > hops prior to bottling, or is it sufficient to assume that I'll leave > enough behind after racking that I needn't worry? You don't need to do any special filtering. As you're racking the beer into the priming vessel, just try to keep the end of the siphon hose from getting too close to the hops. I use one of those plastic racking wands that has a small sphere at the end with several holes in it. That helps to avoid clogging from the hops. I only had it clog up once, and even then it was pretty easy to dislodge the hops and resume racking. If you can muster up the patience, it might be worth leaving the beer in the secondary with the dry hops for, say, an extra week. You'll get more aroma out of the hops that way. - John Polstra jdp at polstra.UUCP Polstra & Co., Inc. ...{uunet,sun}!practic!polstra!jdp Seattle, WA (206) 932-6482 Return to table of contents
Date: 01 Feb 90 17:02:03 PST (Thu) From: florianb at tekred.cna.tek.com Subject: re: coffee in stouts In #349 Mark Stevens asks about putting coffee in stouts. I've done this occasionally with good results. I grind the coffee right along with the grain (both pale and adjuncts), and mash as usual. The 1/2 cup per 5 gal batch is about the amount I use. I prefer Sumatra coffee beans, since they are mild and usually less oily. In these stouts, I've also added cocoa and brewer's licorice to form a good taste combination. florian Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #350, 02/02/90 ************************************* -------
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 06/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96