HOMEBREW Digest #3551 Thu 08 February 2001

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  XXXX recipe (TOLLEY Matthew)
  Hops & strong beer (Tom Smit)
  Canned extract color (Jacob Jacobsen)
  Sorghum Malt (Ant Hayes)
  Re:  headspace and carbonation ("Joel King")
  Amber and Brown malts (North Country Malt Supply) (leavitdg)
  RE: Organic Malt Extract, Hops (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  SWAG about Bottle Carbonation ("J. Doug Brown")
  Re: Alcohol Content ("S. SNYDER")
  RE Lallemand Kroner Yeast ("Houseman, David L")
  exhaust hoods ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  strong beer ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  re: re high final gravity...more (Joseph C.)" <jweishaa at ford.com>
  Homebrew and airplanes (spostek)
  Re: Goofy question & fillers ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  budvar 2000 and an O'fest question (david.persenaire)
  Re: low final gravities, Phillers (Brian Lundeen) (Project One)
  Hefe Weizen temperature ("Steven Parfitt")
  Re: Seeking advice on exhaust hoods ("Charles R. Stewart")
  Cheap 10gal coolers ("Brian D. Kern")
  sorghum malt (Marc Sedam)
  pump baby pump...baby, baby, pump, pump (Marc Sedam)
  yeast geek info/biofilms ("Alan Meeker")
  Re: Leaking Phillers ("Axle Maker")
  Alder wood ("Hill, Steve")
  Corn grits (Tom Smit)
  Early Boil ("C.H. Waters")
  source for 8 oz bottles (Rick Gontarek)
  Southern hops ("Marc Hawley")
  philler ("Marc Hawley")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 17:13:02 +1100 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: XXXX recipe >From: Stephen Neilsen <sneilsen at bigpond.net.au> >XXXX. >First question would have to be...why?!!!!! Maybe he likes XXXX. I know when I lived in Townsville and it was 40oC / 98% humidity out and were just sitting around eating Samboy salt and vinegar chips, we weren't craving a Trappist ale to wash them down with. Maybe his mates like XXXX. Maybe its his first brew and he's looking for something familiar to start with, with clean, simple tastes that'll let him spot any flaws in his sanitation routine pronto? Bloody beer snobs (returns to Corona with lime and microwaved nachos). Try this, Brewmasterwill: Get yourself a can of Beermaker's XXX Bitter. Dissolve 600g dextrose and 400g maltodextrin in a couple of litres of water in a saucepan and bring it to a gentle simmer. Toss in 15g of Pride of Ringwood hop pellets and simmer for 10-15 minutes. Chuck it all in your fermenter with your canned extract and stir to dissolve. Top it up with cold water, check the temperature, and pitch your yeast. (Recipe from http://www.countrybrewer.com.au.) Cheers, ay? ...Matt... (Canberra, ACT, Australia - same time next year, Jeff :>) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 18:40:05 +0100 From: Tom Smit <lunica at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Hops & strong beer Hi all, Ken Schwartz typed > I also put [the hop plants] on the east wall of the house where they > only got a little direct sun, in the cooler morning (a mountain to the > east also provides shade for a couple extra hours in the morning). The > house next door reflected plenty of light in the afternoon. So I'd > guess they got four hours of direct sun a day. I had them on an > automatic drip system getting about a quart of water twice a day (this > is important), and I put gravel over the soil surface to help hold in > moisture. Plants in pots, especially those near the walls of a house need much more water than those planted in the ground. I know about desert sun, coming from Oz and all, but am wondering what fertiliser you used. Pea straw, barley straw, lucerne (alfafa) chaff are better mulch than gravel. In your bigger containers, without chemical fertilisers, the hops should do better. If you remember my earlier post re garden not watered for 2 weeks in 30-40C heat, two volunteer eggplant (aubergine) plants set a heap of lovely fruit. Manure & mulch should do it. Newbie asked > a friend of mine has just > challenged me to brew him a beer that has a 12% (by volume) alcohol content. > > I am still using can kits from my local homebrew store Hey mate, one of my last kit brews was a bloody big stout with a ton of flavor. An easy way to do this is to use two cans of kit rather than just one. What I did (making things up on the spur of the moment) was a can of Coopers Stout, then a kilo or half kilo (too hot here to drag out old brew log books) of dried malt then a kilo of darkish liquid malt extract. This got me a 10%+ alcohol stout. Talking to my local HB shop, Grumpys, I repeated this but as a minimash with a lot of roast barley and black malt and 'with extra hops to balance the extra malt' and got a very bitter huge 11-13% stout that I still have 12 bottles of that I will really enjoy this winter (if it ever fucking gets here, 35C, 40C, min 26C at night for over a month and now high humidity causing my arthritis to flare up like a solar flare) because it took that long for the hops/burnt grains to lose the sharp bitter edge and change into a huge complexity/ Add malt however you want (liquid ME MUCH better than DME) but add a few more hops and you will awe the shit out of your friend. Use this exercise to move up to partial-mash brewing and impress the shit out of yourself! Cheers Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 03:13:25 -0500 From: Jacob Jacobsen <brewer at cotse.com> Subject: Canned extract color It seems that no matter what sort of beer the kit is supposed to make, the canned liquid extract contained in a beer kit always yields a similar dark beer color. Is this caused by the vacuum processing of the wort? This isn't the case with DME. Jake - ---------------- Without question, the greatest invention in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I grant you that the wheel was also a fine invention, but the wheel does not go nearly as well with pizza. -- Dave Barry Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 11:38:58 +0200 From: Ant Hayes <Ant.Hayes at FifthQuadrant.co.za> Subject: Sorghum Malt Thanks to the people who responded yesterday. I use red sorghum malt. I suspect that African varieties may be slightly different to American. White sorghum is obtainable, but red is the one used for brewing. I have not found the tannin levels to be problematic. The variety I have used to date has low diastic power. I have not seen an analysis sheet, but have relied on the advice of the maltster. They will be supplying me with malt with higher diastic power soon. Sorghum malt adds an unusual flavour, which is difficult to describe, but easy to recognise. It tastes more like wheat malt than like barley malt. It is possible to use unmalted sorghum, but that first needs to be gelatinised in a pre cooker at 75C or thereabouts. Ant Hayes Gauteng; South Africa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 11:27:18 -0000 From: "Joel King" <joel_d_king at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: headspace and carbonation Chris Buck writes: >>Could aerobic fermentation of ethanol give enough extra CO2 to account for exploding bottles?<< Or even the additional benefits of the extra oxygen leading to additional fermentation of residual sugars? You could try two different bottling methods, leaving the same headspace in both bottles, but in one bottle flush the air space with a blast of CO2 prior to bottling, and see what happens... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 07:36:27 -0500 (EST) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Amber and Brown malts (North Country Malt Supply) Richard; I have tried both of these malts and feel that they are appropriate, in small quantities, for porters/ stouts. Jeff Renner may have more to say about this, but on his suggestion ( a couple of years ago?) I got the brown malt trying to make an old-style porter.. from a recipe of almost entirely brown malt...just to find that the brown does not have enaough diastatic power/ enzymes to convert itself. I found that both malts render a very strong roasted/ toasted flavor and color, and that 1 lb in a 5 gallon batch may be the upper limit. Another nice malt that they have, and one that cannot be found anywhere else in the US is their Malted Oats. I jsut made a stout with them and can't wait to see how it comes out. Claude and Brian Bechard are the owner, son, and are very helpful. Happy Brewing! ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 07:44:31 -0500 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: RE: Organic Malt Extract, Hops Check out Seven Bridges Cooperative Microbrewery in Santa Cruz, CA. They bill themselves as the only organic homebrew supply company: http://www.breworganic.com The malt extract they use is Briess Brewer's Gold, "made from US grown certified organic barley," and the hops they carry are all imported, but the catalog says they are exploring options for US grown organic hops in the coming year. The description does not specify whether they are certified organic or not, but varieties are of the noble German, New Zealand Pacific Gem and NZ Hallertaur, Australian Pride of Ringwood, and British Target. Pellet and whole available (though not for all varieties). Affiliation: I'm a satisfied customer, and my office mate is a member of the cooperative. If you have questions, just call Amelia at Seven Bridges 1-800-768-4409; she's quite helpful. - --Rob Hanson The Closet Brewery Washington, DC - ------- Back and side go bare, go bare, Both foot and hand go cold; But, belly, God send thee good ale enough, Whether it be new or old. --Bishop Still (John), Gammer Gurton's Needle, Act ii Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 07:52:35 -0500 From: "J. Doug Brown" <dougbrown at citynet.net> Subject: SWAG about Bottle Carbonation Greetings, The topic of differing bottle carbonation levels is still around so I thought I'd add my SWAG. When I bottle my beer, I let it carbonate at basement temperatures 55-65F. However when I serve my bottled beer, it has normally been refrigerated. Here goes my theory. Regardless of the headspace, I assume the pressure to reach the same maximum level in a bottle before the yeast quit due to CO2 saturization. When the bottle is chilled in the fridge the CO2 from the smaller headspace is quickly absorbed becuase the beer is colder. The beer bottle with the larger headspace is going to have more CO2 to dissolve in the beer. More CO2 to dissolve in less beer would tend to reach equlibrim at a higher pressure. This would correlate with more headspace more pressure theory, however it would not explain exploding bottles, or any other observed behavior dealing with pressures higher than initial carbonation pressures. Twilight Zone Material: A possible explanation of larger headspace/bottle explosion phenonomon. If the headspace is large, the yeast could possibly begin aerobic respiration and reproduce, thus increasing cell density, before generating CO2 in the carbonation process. There could be something about the yeast cell in solution that helps allow higher CO2 levels stay in solution (such as the substance placed in Acetylene tanks to allow greater pressures with less risk of explosion). If this was the case when the yeast cells flocculate after carbonation, the pressure would rise inside the bottle possibly beyond the bottles critical pressure point. My 34 cents worth Doug Brown - -- J. Doug Brown - Fairmont, WV Software Engineer at ProLogic, Inc. mailto:dougbrown at citynet.net mailto:dbrown at prologic-inc.com http://members.citynet.net/kbrown/Doug http://www.prologic-inc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:03:13 -0500 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: Re: Alcohol Content Newbie: For an ABV of 12% you're most likely looking at a barely wine. There are many recipes online at Cat's Meow and Gambrinus Mug for barleywines, or talk to your local homebrew store, but they don't taste like beer with a high alcohol content. They are very malty and I don't care for them personally. Does your friend know what he is talking about or does he just want to get drunk faster? If it is the former then go ahead and give a barleywine a shot (you need a yeast that can tolerate high alcohol (high gravity)), if it is the former, then don't waste your time. He won't like the barleywine. Just tell him to add vodka to his Budweiser. Brew on and brew well, Scott Snyder Trumbull, CT ssnyder at lbghq.com Rotten Rotti Brewing Company Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:07:35 -0600 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE Lallemand Kroner Yeast Speaking of Lallemand yeast, whatever happened to their supposed plans to introduce dry lager yeasts? Did that fizzle or were they quietly introduced in some markets? Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:52:01 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: exhaust hoods Strom asks about exhaust hoods. We use a standard Broan (NAJASCYYY) kitchen exhaust hood, 250 CFM, for two 10 gallon kettles. I believe a simple 210 would work fine for a single kettle, and would be cheaper. Exhausted through the wall with standard venting. regards, Stephen Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:52:09 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: strong beer Newbie asks about making a high alcohol ale. 12%. Welcome to the hobby! The nicest way would be to make a Barleywine or Imperial Stout. A Strong Belgian Ale is also nice, but be sure to see if your friend likes this style. Be warned that any beer of this strength will need a longer aging time, at least 6 months, over a year would be better. Do not simply add more sugar. Ideally, you do not want to exceed 15% of your fermentables with sugar. So go all malt, and add hops to balance. You can use some sugar to lighten the body and increase the alcohol. Typical sugars used are Candi Sugar or Caramel Sugar. You could use a small amount of corn sugar. You can find extract based recipes for these styles on-line at Gambrinus' Mug at the brewery.org, and beertools.com among others. There are many good books available as well, Brew Classic European Beers At Home by Wheeler & Protz is one of my personal favorites. If you decide which style you would like to brew, I'm sure that you will get many fine recipes here if you just ask. Here's one for a Russian Imperial Stout that uses Brewer's Caramel Syrup (a caramelized liquid invert sucrose). Batch Size (LTR): 20.00 Wort Size (LTR): 20.00 Total Extract (kg): 5.40 Anticipated OG: 1.090 Plato: 21.36 Anticipated SRM: 50.0 Anticipated IBU: 78.8 Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes Grain/Extract/Sugar % Amount Name Origin Gravity SRM - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - 74.1 4.00 kg. Amber Dry Malt Extract 44.00 25 4.6 0.25 kg. Chocolate Malt Great Britain 34.00 475 4.6 0.25 kg. Roasted Barley Great Britain 29.00 575 7.4 0.40 kg. Caramel Pils Malt Belgium 34.00 2 9.3 0.50 kg. Caramel sugar Canada 33.00 75 Hops Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - 40.00 g. Target UK Pellet 8.30 45.5 60 min. 30.00 g. Challenger UK Pellet 8.10 33.3 60 min. Yeast - ----- Wyeast 1084, 1275 or 1728 Steep the grains in a grain bag in 2 quarts water at 140F or 30 minutes. Rinse the grains with warm water into the pot, discard grains, and keep the grain tea. Add malt extract and hops and 8 quarts water and boil for 60 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and cool pot in cold water bath. Add cooled wort (below 170F) to cold sterile water in fermentor. Aerate and pitch yeast. hope this helps! Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 09:48:41 -0500 From: "Weishaar, Joe (Joseph C.)" <jweishaa at ford.com> Subject: re: re high final gravity...more I have been a lurker for maybe 3 years-until today. A recent post stirred my interest as it mirrors a recent experience with a porter that I now have fermenting. Stephen Alexander responded to Darrell Leavitt: Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 04:46:40 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: re high final gravity... darrell leavitt writes ... >the final gravity really confuses me, [...] >Here is the data: ... My reading is that you mashed 12.75# of grist & 18qt of water 60' at 155F(68C), 30' at 158F(70C). You had 11# of pale malt (PA & wheat malt), 1.75# of roast (chocolate & barley & amber). A 62C (143.6 F) mash will give ~80% attenuation and a 72C (161.6 F) mash will give ~40% attenuation (see Kunze on Jump mash). I would expect your 68C (154.4 F) mash to yield something like 55-60% attenuation of the wort, tho' it depends on other factors. Now here's what I did last week: I brewed a porter based on "St. Chuck's Porter" popularized by frequent poster to "The Brewery's Brews & Views" discussion forum, Bill Pierce. Thank you Bill. My grain bill was (total grist of 10.63 lb): 7.25 lb Munton Marris Otter 0.88 lb. Munton chocolate malt 0.75 lb crystal 60L 0.75 lb. Flaked barley 0.5 lb victory 0.5 lb special B Mashed in with 1.2 qts/lb mash liquor, aiming for 152F (single step infusion). I hit my target temp and verified the pH (~5.0 to 5.3) in short order and placed my mash kettle in a 170F-preheated oven. Normally I turn off the oven at this point-this day I forgot and it stayed on until my 45-minute check point. The temp. had climbed as high as 155 F in some regions of the kettle. I added some ice cubes to reach 150 F and returned to the oven for the remaining 45 min. of the rest. >From this point, everything went as planned. Performed a 15 minute mash out at 168F and began recirculation and collection as usual. The boil and run-off to the fermenter went as planned. OG was 1.053 for 5.5 gallons. I gave the wort a 2-minute shot of O2 using SS stone, and pitched my yeast starter. I built-up a starter using a pitchable tube of White Labs Edinburgh Ale into a 0.75 gal starter volume several days before. It fermented out predictably and I decanted the spent liquid before pitching the slurry. The wort at pitching and throughout the fermentation was 65F. After 3 hours, I had positive pressure in the primary and it showed all the right signs of a healthy fermentation. A little over 2 days later, the yeast had already started to fall! I was puzzled by this, so thinking that my yeast was pooping out, I checked the SG. It was 1.024 even though the fermentation appeared to over. Now, I'm searching for what went wrong. The SG has dropped to 1.022 today, but at one bubble per minute through the airlock, any lower seems unlikely. Based on the response of Stephen Alexander above, this does not seem out of the ordinary based on the grain bill and higher mash temperatures. Is this the answer I'm searching for? Comments please. Searching in Plymouth, MI Joe Weishaar Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:16:44 US/Eastern From: spostek at voicenet.com Subject: Homebrew and airplanes Anyone have any good/bad experiences taking a bottle or two of homebrew on an airplane? I am guessing there are no laws against it, but are there any issues with the caps not holding? In a properly pressurized cabin I'd imagine it is no different than keeping them in your basement. I realize they may get shaken up a bit but I have someone I am visiting and I'd really like to take a few bottles out to. Thanks. Public or private responses welcome. Steve spostek at voicenet.com - --------------------------------------------- This message was sent using Voicenet WebMail. http://www.voicenet.com/webmail/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 10:02:45 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Re: Goofy question & fillers Mr. Peed thought he had a goofy question regarding mixed yeast strains: >Does anyone know what happens when you pitch two different kinds of yeast? >Anyone ever wanted to mute or modify the effects of a certain yeast by >pitching it with another one? John, I'll tell you it's not a goofy question at all. It my wind up making a goofy beer if you mix any old yeasts - try a Belgian strain mixed with Ringwood ale yeast. I don't think that particular mixture of diacetyl, phenols and esters would be pleasing to the palate. But I may be entirely wrong. Your best bet is to experiment. But if you pick a good combination, you will get a flavor complexity which cannot be equally achieved by changing the grain bill or hop schedule. Pick yeasts whose flavor contribution profiles complement each other. You'll then have to decide whether to add them together or at different stages. Maybe you'll want to use equal amounts or possibly different amounts. It's all dependent upon the particular yeasts you are using. Two strains of equal cell count can be added to the same wort and one will dominate the other at the end of fermentation in both cell count and flavor. It has now become tradition for me to make a batch of barley wine every year at Xmas which is not to be opened until Halloween of the following year and must last me through the winter. {Yeah, right.} The 1999 batch of English-style barleywine was made from an equal mixture of WhiteLabs British Ale (WLP005) and Burton Ale (WLP023) yeasts. While it didn't place when entered into a competition (also had to compete with Belgians) it held it's own and scored very well with a judge who I am told is tough on the style. Recently I made an American-style barleywine at 1.110 OG and lots o' hops. I wanted the fermentation to be vigorous so I added my 2 liter starter of Whitelabs California V Ale and then dumped an additional quart of THICK slurry from a previous batch on top (Wyeast British Ale Yeast 1098). At racking to the secondary it was 1.022. I'll take this to be the FG as it works out to an 80% apparent attenuation - beyond the the 70 - 75% range cited for both strains. At racking I tasted the beer. It had some characteristics of both profiles listed by the manufacturers while others were not evident. I was very pleased and this beer shows much promise. But only time will tell. Barleywines, to me at least, seem to be a style which can benefit most from mixed strain fermentations. I also bottle condition my Belgians with either a German or American lager yeast strain. Why? Dunno. Guess I'm strange. Alex asked if all Listerman Bottle Phillers leaked. > If the filler leaked any faster I wouldn't have to worry > about pushing down on the filler > to fill bottles, is this how they all are or did I get a bad one ? I switched from my el-cheapo plastic & spring filler to the Listerman filler because my plastic one did the same thing as yours. My Listerman one works beautifully, though it doesn't get as much use as it used to. I've only had one problem with mine in that the fill tube became detatched from the body. Probably due to something stupid I did. Dan offered to replace the filler for me, but I opted to fix it myself anyway. A little solder plus his detailed instructions and I was back in business. The plastic one would have been thrown away. This filler looks like it's good for life and has probably even paid for itself by now - compared to plastic. NAJASC. Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "Designs which work well on paper rarely do so in actual practice" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 08:52:23 -0600 From: david.persenaire at abnamro.com Subject: budvar 2000 and an O'fest question H. Dowda writes about his observations of budvar 2000 yeast. I just finished fermenting a czech pils with the same yeast and noticed very little foaming in both the fermenter and in my starters. I didn't pay close enough attention to the odors but gave a good taste when transferring to secondary. I had to empty two hydrometer vials since I transferred two carboys. The hydrometer samplings were good to the last drop. A very nice balanced beer even before lagering. No noticeable sulphur profile that can happen in lager yeasts. So far, flavor-wise I'm very pleased. As we are approaching the month of March (Marzen) I am beginning to work on my first Oktoberfest. I have yet to taste an American made o'fest that duplicates the melanoidan profile the german versions have. All the American versions have a malt profile that has some roasted or even burnt character that I don't detect in the german ones. I'm guessing it comes from additions of crystal malt, munich malt, etc. My buddy tells me it's because germans decoct and they use all vienna malt. George Fix's book talks about using pilsner malt with some vienna because modern vienna isn't what it used to be. I noticed our sponsor at northernbrewer.com carries an undermodified vienna. I'm thinking about making a triple decocted o'fest with 100% vienna malt. Anybody else out there try this? I'd love to hear some results and suggestions. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 09:00:16 -0800 From: Project One <project1 at pond.net> Subject: Re: low final gravities, Phillers (Brian Lundeen) Brian, Have you checked the calibration of your thermometer? I had a run of really over attenuated beers, probably 5-6 in a row. I finally got around to sticking my thermometer in some boiling water, only to see it read 218-219 degrees F! So, when I thought I was mashing at 152, it was really 145-146. I adjusted it and have been getting much better attenuation now. ------->Denny Conn a long way from Jeff Renner in Eugene OR At 12:25 AM 2/7/01 -0500, you wrote: >Well, I suppose this is as good a lead in as any to my problem which is the >opposite. I habitually (apart from a stout that quit on me about 1.020) end >up with lower terminal gravities than I want. This has reached a new low >with my last batch, a 1.053 pale ale, finishing up at 1.006. That's 88% >apparent attenuation, assuming my hydrometer is accurate (which it may very >well not be, since I have never checked it against a known solution). Some >particulars on the latest batch, including some things I did that I suspect >may have contributed to the low TG: Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 12:30:47 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Hefe Weizen temperature The general consensis from people who responded to my previous query about temperature for ester production in a hefe-weizen was to ferment at the high byproduct of mash temperature, thus I would not have any control as an extract brewer. Batch was fermenting well by Monday morning. About 1/sec at the air lock. I pitched at 80F on Sunday, and let the batch cool to 70F. Tuesday when I got home from work it was up to 74 F, so I set the fermenter outside to cool it back below 70F. I brought it inside at a temp of 66F, and it is back up to 70F today. Strange/undesiarble smell eminating from the airlock on Monday morning. Smelled like SO2. This smell persisted and still smells of SO2 as of this morning. Steven Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 13:01:45 -0500 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: Re: Seeking advice on exhaust hoods I actually rigged up a system so I can smoke cigars in the basement shop without the aroma (aka stink) making it upstairs. When a neighbor was having their central air system replaced, I got the fan from the old one and mounted it onto a board, which went into a window. I hooked a cord to it and fired it up. The thing works so well, I can even use my comptessor and spray gun in the shop! I'm even considering brewing down there now (of course with a proper carbon monoxide detector). On Tue, 6 Feb 2001, Strom C. Thacker, was seeking advice on exhaust hoods and wrote: > SWMBO doesn't like the smell of boiling wort (it seeps up through the > basement ceiling into the kitchen above), so I'd like to either buy > or build a simple exhaust hood that I could vent outside via a dryer > vent or the like. Chip Stewart Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 10:14:05 -0800 (PST) From: "Brian D. Kern" <bdk at srl.caltech.edu> Subject: Cheap 10gal coolers I just spotted new 10-gal Igloo beverage coolers (i.e. cylindrical) for $30. Check out www.loadup.com/static/7101.html -- this seems to be an army surplus store, or something of the sort. They claim that the condition is manufactured new, and the SKU matches the Igloo model # (check www.igloocoolers.com). Igloo charges $60 for these. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 13:22:13 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: sorghum malt Hmmm. I haven't used sorghum malt, but did use a quart of sorghum syrup in an imperial stout I brewed a few years back. Here in the south, any Southern States store worth its mustard will stock locally made sorghum syrup...or so I'm told. I assume sorghum syrup is the equivalent of malt extract. I think it added a nice depth of character to the beer not achievable through malted grains. The beer stacked up favorably versus Brooklyn's Black Chocolate Stout in a drunken blind taste test. YMMV. As for extraction, I estimated that it gives pt/lb/gal in the same amount as honey. I would think a cup in a small stout would taste rather nice. Cheers! Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 13:27:57 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: pump baby pump...baby, baby, pump, pump Thanks to everyone who responded to the pump questions. Most warned about compacting the grain bed, which I understand. I've tested my particular model and think I can restrict the flow down to a quart/minute which should be slow enough. All warned of scorching the bottom of the pot. And some suggested I only use the pump to recirculate during the mash out stage to set the filter bed, then move over to the boiler. Phil Wilcox suggested to increase the liquor/girst ratio to 2:1 (from my current 1.25:1). That makes some sense as well. I think I'll try to keep the recirc rate pretty slow and keep the burner barely on and see what's what. I need to make some wort starters and a blending beer (all pale malt, mash hopped, no bittering additions) and think this will be the perfect chance to test out the system. Thanks all. Marc Chapel Hill, NC (Rennerian, schmennarian...we're #1) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:45:50 -0500 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: yeast geek info/biofilms For all the hardcore yeast geeks out there the cover article in Science deals with getting cerevisiae to form biofilms. Turns out (perhaps not too surprisingly) that a couple of the flo genes are involved. Here's the link: http://www.sciencemag.org/cgi/content/full/291/5505/806b -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 17:22:14 -0500 From: "Axle Maker" <axlemaker at mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Leaking Phillers Thanx to all that responded to my question... The over all verdict was they all do that, a few suggested sending it back, but I wont do that cause it was my idea to try the thing, I will just most likely go back to my plastic spring loaded filler. Happy Brewing ! Axle. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 19:08:29 -0500 From: "Hill, Steve" <SHill at advanta.com> Subject: Alder wood hello all! I am looking to purchase some alder wood for smoking grains for a smoked beer. I am from Pennsylvania so hitting my local forest won't be a good start. I am looking for someone in Alaska that might be able to ship me some wood. Not a lot, just enough for one or two sessions with me Brinkman smoker. Anyone serious willing to help please email me. Thanks shill at advanta.com Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 22:02:27 +0100 From: Tom Smit <lunica at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Corn grits Hi all, I am planning to make a CACA later this year. The only ingredient giving me problems is corn grits. I have found one site http://southernfood.about.com/food/southernfood/library/weekly/aa022397.html that describes making grits. Anyone have a better description of the process? I could just use polenta or flaked maize but I have some really nice corn growing in my garden that would give a terrific taste to the CACA. TIA Tom Smit Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2001 18:19:34 -0600 From: "C.H. Waters" <cwaters at home.com> Subject: Early Boil To Bob Barret: I tried to send this to your e-mail address but it bounced, so I'll post to the collective. Two issues regarding an early start to the boil: 1) Your heaviest (gravity) runoff comes first, so starting a boil then definitely does darken your wort more and result in some melanoidin production - not necessarily undesirable, depending on style. I wouldn't do it for a Kolsch or even a CAP, but I like it in my IPA's, and especially in a porter. Be careful to avoid too much carmelization with this early high-gravity wort by alot of stirring and slower heating , if you have a high BTU burner. 2) It probably messes up whatever magic takes place in First Wort Hopping. Maybe, if you're using pellets, there's enough time for the essential oils to become stabilized, but as I use flower hops, they're hardly even wet, still floating high on the surface, if I start the boil too soon. YMMY. I Hope this helps. Chester Waters - Omaha Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 21:02:20 -0500 From: Rick Gontarek <rgontare at bellatlantic.net> Subject: source for 8 oz bottles Hello all, I am planning to make a mead for my brother's wedding, and I wanted to know if anyone knows a supplier who sells 8 oz bottles (that will take a crown cap). I really would like to find those cool cobalt blue bottles, since the mead will be used as a wedding favor. If anyone can recommend a source, I'd appreciate it. Cheers, Rick Gontarek Owner/Brewer The Major Groove Picobrewery Trappe, PA RGontare at bellatlantic.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:34:45 -0600 From: "Marc Hawley" <Marc_Hawley at email.msn.com> Subject: Southern hops I grow hops here in extreme southern Indiana. I am South of a line from St. Louis to Louisville. I started with several varieties but noe I grow only Cascades. I get about 2 oz. dry weight per plant. They grow up to 20 feet tall, but they do seem to suffer in the summer heat. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:36:07 -0600 From: "Marc Hawley" <Marc_Hawley at email.msn.com> Subject: philler I have been using a Phil's philler for years. Eight years or so. I like it fine. It works. Return to table of contents
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