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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: Corn grits (Kevin White)
temperature control unit ("Stuart Phillips")
re: Homebrew and Airplanes ("Mark Tumarkin")
RE: Marc's pump questions (Paul Shick)
3 micron filters ("John Kleczewski")
Homebrew and airplanes ("Houseman, David L")
Homebrew in the Air! ("AYOTTE, ROGER C")
re: Homebrew & Airplanes ("Kensler, Paul")
Budvar 2000 ("Houseman, David L")
high alcohol brew (Marc Sedam)
Mashing out (Doug Hurst)
Re: O'fest question (Jeff Renner)
Re: Homebrew and airplanes ("Steve Wood")
Yeast Ranching Question (Mark Alfaro)
beer on planes (Frank Tutzauer)
Re: Homebrew and airplanes (Danny Breidenbach)
Packages for Shipping Homebrew ("Eric and Susan Armstrong")
Specialty Grains (cmmundt)
Canned extract color. (Craig MacFarlane)
Re: high final gravity...more (Craig MacFarlane)
Devil Mt. Five malt ale ("Al Beers")
vienna malt ("Stephen Cavan")
Re: new toys to play with (RBoland)
*
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Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 01:09:00 -0500
From: Kevin White <kwhite at bcpl.net>
Subject: Re: Corn grits
Tom Smit wrote:
>
>I am planning to make a CACA later this year. The only ingredient
>giving me problems is corn grits. I have found one site
>http://southernfood.about.com/food/southernfood/library/weekly/aa022397.html
>that describes making grits. Anyone have a better description of
>the process?
>
> I could just use polenta or flaked maize but I have some really nice
>corn growing in my garden that would give a terrific taste to the CACA.
>
The most important part of processing corn to make grits is to cleanly
remove the embryo (germ) from the kernel--it has a *very* high oil content.
After removing the embryo and the hull, only starchy endosperm is left. Dry
it and grind it--you just made grits (but probably much easier said than
done). You can get a good overview of the process by doing an internet
search for corn dry milling. I've never brewed with corn, but I do know
that the taste contribution to beers doesn't vary much with different corn
varieties. I suspect that the finer flavor compounds are lost during
drying, steeping and processing. Of course, if you make grits from fresh
corn, you may get different results.
You may find it's a lot easier to just buy flaked maize. Don't forget that
grits need to be gelatinized via cooking before mashing, but flakes do not.
If you choose to make your own grits, good luck, and please let us know how
things turn out!
Kevin White
Columbia, MD
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:08:01 +1100
From: "Stuart Phillips" <sphill04 at postoffice.csu.edu.au>
Subject: temperature control unit
i'm looking for a temperature controller to control the temp in
a chest freezer so that lager beer can be brew at low
temperatures and a keg system can be placed in it.
I have seen some place a controller which to operate you only
have to plug the freezer into the unit and then place a probe
into the freezer and set the freezer to it's lowest setting and
then the controller cuts the freezer on and off to maintain the
selected temperature. it had a digital read out on it too.
I don't know who make such a thing like that so i'm searching around to find
something of the like.
if you can help in recommending a product do so please, don't
forget the price if you know it.
thank you
stuart
Australia
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 07:24:21 -0500
From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: re: Homebrew and Airplanes
Steve asks:
"Anyone have any good/bad experiences taking a
bottle or two of homebrew on an airplane? I am
guessing there are no laws against it, but are
there any issues with the caps not holding? "
I have taken homebrew on planes numerous times (and usually brought back
micro/commercial brews on the return trip), depending on the quantity I've had
them both in the cabin as carry-on or under the plane in my regular luggage.
No problems in either case. There is certainly less chance of mishap if the
beer is in the pressurized cabin, and lovingly/carefully carried by you.
I have had issues at the x-ray scanners. It seems to be up to the discretion
of the checker. Once they opened the luggage, saw that the bottles were not
labeled and didn't want to let it on the plane at all. In this instance, I got
a representative of the airline involved and was allowed to take it. All other
times they've passed it without problem. I'd say go for it and take some of
your homebrew along.
Mark Tumarkin
Gainesville, Fl
I
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 07:59:10 -0500
From: Paul Shick <shick at jcu.edu>
Subject: RE: Marc's pump questions
Hello all,
Marc Sedam posted a series of questions obout using a new
pump with his gas-fired system, and he reported on the suggestions
he received. My experience with a gas-fired "semi-RIMS" leads me
to disagree a bit with some of the responses, although these
discrepancies are most likely due just to different mash tun
designs.
First, the suggested flow rate of one quart per minute
seems awfully low. As long as you're avoiding "sticky" adjuncts
like flaked barley, a flow rate of about one gallon per minute
should be okay, and has the added benefit of making scorching of
the wort less likely. Again, this probably depends on how your
false bottom is designed, but I'd suggest at least trying the
faster flow before cranking it down as low as some suggest.
Second, some false bottoms are actually more prone to
set up with a thinner mash, at least in my experience. I've
used two very different false bottom setups, both of which were
much more finicky about sticking if I used more than about 1.7
qts per pound. I honestly don't understand the mechanics of
why this happens, but it has been consistent over 5+ years. I'd
suggest about 1.4-1.5 qts per pound as an upper limit. By the way,
I did notice that an EasyMasher mashing setup seems much more
resistant to changes in liquor-grist ratio. Hmmm....
Finally, some suggested only running the pump to raise
to mashout tempertures, which is certainly a reasonable option.
However, it's really nice to be able to control the fermentability
of the wort by balancing beta- and alpha-amylase rests. A nice
compromise (for me at least) is to mash in at 146F or 152F, depending
on what attenuation I'm aiming for, then rest without recirculation
for 30+ minutes. I then start gentle heat and recirculation at this
point, with the grain bed well set up, reaching about 158F at, say,
50 minutes, then rest again. A gentle rise to 164F or so before
running off is all that's needed from here. Of coourse, you may
prefer more intense mash regimes for certain malts, but this works
nicely for most well-modified grists.
Have fun with the new toy.
Paul Shick
Finally basement brewing again,
Cleveland Hts, OH
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 07:26:25 -0600
From: "John Kleczewski" <jkleczewski at mindspring.com>
Subject: 3 micron filters
Hello,
Does anyone have a source for 3 micron filters for beer filtering?
George Fix says he prefers to use a 3 micron stone (porcelain) filter
cartridge, over plastic (polypropylene), any ideas where to get these?
John Kleczewski
jkleczewski at mindspring.com
West Chicago, Il. (30 mi. West of Chicago)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 07:47:59 -0600
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: Homebrew and airplanes
Steve,
I've traveled with both homebrew and beers I've bought and am returning home
a number of times. I've taken as much as two six packs of homebrew in a
carry-on bag that just got stowed in the overhead. No problems with
security or the flight crew. I didn't however hang out a sign that said
"Bottle Home Brewed Beer In Here" but surely the Xray machine operator must
have noticed that it was at least bottles in a six-pack holder. I've
returned from parts of the US and from Europe with lots of beer, as much as
a couple cases as carry-on luggage. No problems either; just declare what
you've got at customs. At least air pressure in planes has not affected the
bottles. Political pressure, should someone want to make an issue of
traveling homebrew, may be another story altogether.
Dave Houseman
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 08:09:00 -0500
From: "AYOTTE, ROGER C" <RCAYOT at solutia.com>
Subject: Homebrew in the Air!
Steve asks about homebrew on airplanes:
"From: spostek at voicenet.com
Subject: Home-brew and airplanes"
Well, I packaged several bottles of homebrew for a business trip
back to my old hometown (Springfield Ma from Pensacola Fl.). On
the Friday after I arrived, my old homebrew club was having its
monthly meeting, we had a great time and consumed some great
homebrew..... But I just packaged my beer, in bottles, into my
dufflebag wrapped with newspaper, they went right through the X-ray
equipment without a single comment, glance or other notice. Seems
they aren't worried about it. I would NOT recommend checking any
homebrew however, I don't care how carefully you pack them, the
baggage handlers can be really rough!
Roger
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:29:34 -0500
From: "Kensler, Paul" <Paul.Kensler at Cyberstar.com>
Subject: re: Homebrew & Airplanes
Steve asked: "Anyone have any good/bad experiences taking a bottle or two of
homebrew on an airplane?"
I have had both kinds of experience. On the side of good experience, I used
to live in Texas and fly out of DFW airport with bottles of homebrew, with
no problems at all. I hand-carried them onto the plane and ran them through
the X-ray machine; the guys at the security checkpoint didn't give them a
second glance. Also, I've traveled by plane a lot and have always brought
commercial beer back home out of dozens of major airports, and never had any
sort of problem. Once, a security guy in Denver asked me to open my bag.
Not because there was a problem, he was just curious as to what kind of beer
it was (Fat Tire).
On the other hand, I also used to live in Michigan and before I lived in
Michigan, I was flying there for family reunions and trying to bring beer
back. The airport security at Capital airport (Lansing) has some pretty
strict, illogical policies. Every time over the last 5-6 years that I've
tried to fly out with beer they have taken out each and every bottle, and
"inspected" them by hand. I asked why, and they said it was because they
were making sure it didn't contain any gasoline or anything flammable. I
don't know how you can tell the difference between gas and beer through an
amber bottle, but it doesn't really matter. They absolutely would not allow
any bottle on the plane without a label. Apparently, unlabeled bottles
contain gasoline, whereas labeled bottles are OK. I bit my tongue when I
thought "but hairspray is flammable, and I could put gasoline into a shampoo
bottle too... and did you know that I could have recapped the bottle?".
Another time in Lansing, some other guy was wanting to bring on a cooler
full of smoked whitefish (a N. Michigan treat). You guessed it, they made
him take out each and every fish and unwrap them for "inspection".
Apparently, explosive fish are a problem these days.
I guess my point is, you might want to check ahead. My gut feeling tells me
that you will have no problems at any major airport, but you might have a
problem at a small, local airport that employs Barney Fife as head of
security. I've flown out of Detroit airport with no problems at all, so it
can't be a Michigan policy. I really think it's a function of how
"cosmopolitan" the airport is.
Hope this helps,
Paul Kensler
Gaithersburg, MD
p.s. The best news for me is, I'm now living in Maryland which is within
driving distance of the family reunions in Michigan... I can fit an awful
lot of homebrew in my pickup on the way there, and an awful lot of Bell's
beer on the way back!
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 08:37:52 -0600
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: Budvar 2000
I've made one beer, a Bohemian Pilsner, from the Wyeast 2000 Budvar yeast.
As pointed out by Lynne O'Connor, the source, this yeast is a prodigious
producer of diacetyl which isn't all reabsorbed. Even at proper
fermentation and lagering temperatures, the resulting beer has high medium
diacetyl, right on target with Czech Pilsners. Although it appeared to be a
large package, I did grow up this yeast prior to pitching. I ended up with
the yeast slurry and about 4oz of liquid from a 2L starter. This took off
quickly in oxygenated wort. Yes, there was some sulphur aroma during
fermentation but it didn't persist in the end product's aroma and flavor.
This is one of the best beers I've made. Lynne's under modified malt was
spectacular. The mash schedule resulted in a very malty beer with great
head and retention.
Dave Houseman
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 09:52:48 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: high alcohol brew
I'm a big fan of pushing the envelope for brewing purposes. If
you only can use malt extract as the base malt (steeping
specialty malts is fine) then you're limited a bit. The three
things I would recommend are:
1) Get some amylase enzyme (sometimes called pilsner enzyme) and
add it to the cooled wort. Most extracts won't attenuate fully
and addition of the enzyme will allow you to have a higher
alcohol beer that doesn't suffer from a high terminal gravity.
2) Ferment with dry ale yeast, and use 25-30g of yeast to do
it. Sure it costs a few bucks. But three packs of dry yeast
will cost you as much as one smack pack. You want the
fermentation done quickly and vigorously. Of course the
fermentation with that much extract and that much yeast may
border on explosive. Ferment in a 10 gallon vessel if you can
find it, or practice good skimming.
3) Shake the ever-lovin heck out of your carboy after pitching
the yeast. Make those little buggers happy and healthy.
Doing the above steps should get you around 10%abv with two 3.3kg
packs of liquid malt extract and a few pounds of sugar. In a big
beer like this I've used 2-3lbs of honey with no negative
effects. Leaves a nice flavor to boot.
Enjoy the big'un. They're fun.
Cheers!
Marc
Chapel Hill, NC located [0,0] -- the center of the
college hoops universe
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 08:52:03 -0600
From: Doug Hurst <DougH at theshowdept.com>
Subject: Mashing out
I am wondering what the advantage is of performing a mash-out. As I
understand it, mashing-out involves raising the temperature of the entire
mash to the 168-175F range before recirculating or sparging. I have not
been doing this. At the end of the mash I simply recirculate for about 15
minutes, then start sparging with 170F water. Am I doing something wrong?
My beers haven't been too terrible.
Doug Hurst
Chicago, IL
(~270 Miles WSW of 0,0 Rennerian)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:37:51 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: O'fest question
>As we are approaching the month of March (Marzen) I am beginning to work on
>my first Oktoberfest. I have yet to taste an American made o'fest that
>duplicates the melanoidan profile the german versions have. All the
>American versions have a malt profile that has some roasted or even burnt
>character that I don't detect in the german ones. I'm guessing it comes
>from additions of crystal malt, munich malt, etc. My buddy tells me it's
>because germans decoct and they use all vienna malt. George Fix's book
>talks about using pilsner malt with some vienna because modern vienna isn't
>what it used to be. I noticed our sponsor at northernbrewer.com carries an
>undermodified vienna. I'm thinking about making a triple decocted o'fest
>with 100% vienna malt. Anybody else out there try this? I'd love to hear
>some results and suggestions.
When George Fix wrote his book, traditional Vienna malts weren't
available in the US. That situation has happily changed. I made a
really nice Vienna that George had nice things to say about at MCAB1.
It had what I thought was a very European flavor.
For 7.75 gallons, I used:
10 lbs. Durst Vienna
2 lbs. Durst Pils (didn't have any more Vienna)
1 lb. Briess Carapils.
To keep it from being too sweet (a Vienna should be malty but not
sweet, IMO), I mashed in at 145F and brought it up to my target of
149, held it for 30 minutes, then boosted to 158, rested 40 minutes,
then mashed out.
I got an OG of 1.048, and FG of 1.012, right on target (Ayinger yeast).
I think I would use 100% fully modified Vienna, and maybe some
Carapils, but maybe not. And since you want an Octoberfest to be a
drinkable beer in spite of its gravity (1.060), I'd suggest a mash
regime as I described, with a long rest 146-148F, and go real easy on
the hops. You want that wonderful malt to come through.
Of course, if you like to decoct, by all means do it. I've quit
because it's so hard to avoid mishandling the mash.
You know, George and Laurie really should bring out a 2nd edition.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:04:14 -0700
From: "Steve Wood" <stevewo at us.ibm.com>
Subject: Re: Homebrew and airplanes
Steve writes:
"Anyone have any good/bad experiences taking a
bottle or two of homebrew on an airplane? I am
guessing there are no laws against it, but are
there any issues with the caps not holding? In
a properly pressurized cabin I'd imagine it is no
different than keeping them in your basement. I
realize they may get shaken up a bit but I have
someone I am visiting and I'd really like to take
a few bottles out to."
Been there, done that! I once took a case of homebrew on a plane with no
problems whatsoever. I stowed the case in the overhead bin with the
stewardess' permission. It turned out to be a great conversation piece
with the crew. The only hassle was carrying the darn thing from the truck,
to the
ticket counter, to the gate, and then onto the plane. And then of course,
getting
off the plane..... I guess I could have rented a luggage cart, but then
thats like
asking for directions or reading a map when your lost.......... :-).
Enjoy,
Steve Wood
Tucson, AZ.
Internet: stevewo at us.ibm.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 08:13:36 -0800
From: Mark Alfaro <malfaro at qcpi.com>
Subject: Yeast Ranching Question
Greetings to the collective,
I'm hoping that some of the Microbiologists and Yeast Ranchers out there
can help me out with this one.
I recently acquired a 1 pound bottle of dry Potato Dextrose Agar powder.
The information on the label states that it is intended for use in the
microbial testing of dairy products and that when re hydrated with
distilled water, the final pH is 5.6. Is this a suitable medium for
culturing yeast? Can it's suitability for yeast culturing be improved by
adding Dry Malt Extract before re hydrating? If so, what percentage of the
mix should be DME? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Mark Alfaro
Chula Vista, CA
32.6004N
117.04808W
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 12:02:23 -0500 (EST)
From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu>
Subject: beer on planes
Steve asks about taking homebrew on an airplane.
I have taken bottled beer, both commercial and homebrew, as carry-on
luggage with no problem whatsoever.
Here's a tip, though, if you've got enough lead time. Bottle a
portion of your batch in PET bottles. I use both 2-liter Coke bottles
and the smaller 20-oz. size. You can just chuck these in your
luggage, check the bags, and not worry about breakage. I have done it
many times and it's great to bring Buffalo homebrew to my family in
New Orleans.
- --frank
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 13:13:20 -0500
From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew and airplanes
Steve asks about beer and airplanes.
Waaaaaaaaay back, I asked this question, and a lot of people told
stories, gave advice, etc.
Wasn't there a Pete Soper that used to be an HBDer? My memory tells me
it was he who gave the longest and most amazing story. Basically it
boiled down to him getting hassled by the security check-in folks. They
were telling him that he couldn't take homebrew on the plane because the
bottles didn't have labels. He got very specific with them and asked if
he had put homebrew in Budweiser bottles then they wouldn't hassle him
... even if he told them it was homebrew and they said yes.
Some tips: consider checking it ... of course, you'll need to pack it to
the extreme, and wrap the well-cushioned bundle in something fairly
leak-proof. I've had good experience. My brother in law lost one
bottle out of six on one trip. Else he's done well. Carry-on should
also work. They are sealed bottles, containing a non-hazardous liquid.
Again, give them reasonable protection from jostling. If anyone hassles
you, tell them it's beer that you're taking to someone as a gift.
The caps not holding is the least of your worries. Even if you check
them.
Have fun!
- --Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 12:38:29 -0600
From: "Eric and Susan Armstrong" <erica at isunet.net>
Subject: Packages for Shipping Homebrew
Contest season is here and I have a desire to ship some bottles to a couple
of contests. Does anyone know where to find the shipping containers that
the AHA recommends? These would be the same containers that the Brew of the
Month clubs use. Are there retail suppliers for these? Does anyone know of
a good way to ship bottles without one of these? Thanks in advance for your
expertise.
Cheers,
Eric A.
A brewer indebted to the HBD
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 15:41:01 -0500
From: cmmundt at AircraftBraking.com
Subject: Specialty Grains
A fellow brewer has asked for some of my recipes, but I am having
difficulty giving them to him. I do all-grain brewing while he does
extract (usually DME) with specialty grains, and I am not sure of the
ratios to give for the specialty grains. It is an easy thing to give the
amount of DME to achieve the same OG, but I am stumped by how much of the
specialty grains to add. For example, I made a Dortmund Export that had a
grist composition of 85% Pilsen and 15% Munich, roughly 13 pounds and 2.5
pounds. What would be an appropriate amount of grain to use to give a
little body and a little color? The ratio that I used was to say roughly
1/3 of the amount of the non-base malt. He does not do a partial mash or
mini-mash, just soaks the grains in 140-150 F (60-65 C) for 15-25 minutes.
Thanks
Chad Mundt
cmmundt at aircraftbraking.com
Wadsworth, OH (81 44' 10", 41 3' 55")
not Rennarian coordinates yet, but I'll get there
p.s. Jeff, would you like to know the color of my house as well? ;)
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 21:15:32 +0000
From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com>
Subject: Canned extract color.
>Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 03:13:25 -0500
>From: Jacob Jacobsen <brewer at cotse.com>
>Subject: Canned extract color
>
>It seems that no matter what sort of beer the kit is supposed to make, the
>canned liquid extract contained in a beer kit always yields a similar dark
>beer
>color. Is this caused by the vacuum processing of the wort? This isn't the
>case with DME.
It's difficult to get very light colored beers with extract
because of the caramelization that goes on during the
long evaporative boil/simmer.
"Designing Great Beers" discusses this at length in
it's section on beer color.
Craig
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 21:16:36 +0000
From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com>
Subject: Re: high final gravity...more
>
>A little over 2 days later, the yeast had already started to fall! I was
>puzzled by this, so thinking that my yeast was pooping out, I checked the
>SG. It was 1.024 even though the fermentation appeared to over. Now, I'm
>searching for what went wrong. The SG has dropped to 1.022 today, but at
>one bubble per minute through the airlock, any lower seems unlikely. Based
>on the response of Stephen Alexander above, this does not seem out of the
>ordinary based on the grain bill and higher mash temperatures. Is this the
>answer I'm searching for? Comments please.
Interesting, I had an extraordinarily similar experience.
I brewed two batches with a similar grain bill to yours. I pitched
White Labs Edinburgh Ale yeast into the first and racked
the second batch onto the slurry from the first. Both
batches were infusion mashed at 154-156 degrees.
Both batches fermented to 1.020. A little more residual
sugar then I would have liked, but after 4 weeks in a
keg, the first is turning out quite drinkable.
I don't know whether I had too many unfermentables from
a high mash temp, whether the yeast strain just doesn't
have high attenuation, or whether I had a stuck fermentation
in both batches. Or some combination thereof.
I left mine in secondaries longer then usual, just to make
sure the yeast was really finished and the product is turning
out pretty good.
Craig
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 20:00:39 -0500
From: "Al Beers" <albeers at hotmail.com>
Subject: Devil Mt. Five malt ale
Mike Hanson wrote:
Does anybody know of a recipe for a Devil Mountain 5-Malt Ale clone?
All-grain, partial mash, or extract recipes are fine. Private e-mail is
fine.
I got this at a tasting years ago at the Devil Mt. table:
OG:13.2, BU: 21, Malts: Pale, Caramel, Crystal, Chocolate, Black (patent I
assume). Hops: Liberty, Cascade. ABV: 4.2. That is all they provided, hope
this helps,
Don't take life too seriously...you won't get out alive.
Al
albeers at hotmail.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 20:14:30 -0600
From: "Stephen Cavan" <scavan at sprint.ca>
Subject: vienna malt
David wrote re Vienna malt:
"My buddy tells me it's because Germans decoct and they use all Vienna malt.
George Fix's book
talks about using pilsner malt with some Vienna because modern Vienna isn't
what it used to be."
Remember that Fix wrote that book (the AHA VMO Style) back in the early
1990s and much has changed for homebrewing over the last decade. The Vienna
malts that were readily available then were, I think, mostly North American
products made from 6-row malt. Now very nice Vienna malt from German (try
Weyermann's) is everywhere. Even the North American maltsters have improved
to using 2-row, if memory serves here.
Cheers, Steve
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Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 23:56:49 EST
From: RBoland at aol.com
Subject: Re: new toys to play with
Marc asks about operating the poor man's RIMS system, in which you
recirculate the mash liquor with a pump and heat it with fire under the mash
tun. I use this method. The key points as I see them are to ensure that
grain is flushed from under the false bottom before heat is applied
(recirculate to remove grain that could scorch), apply heat slowly to prevent
heating the recirculating wort to mashout temperatures (I check the
temperature periodically), and recirculate slow enough that the bed is not
compressed. I compressed the bed on my first attempt at the process. After
stirring the mash to free the bed, you start the process over again. It's a
trial and error process which should not be hurried. Good Luck!
Bob Boland
St. Louis, MO
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