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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
diacetyl and Pilsner ("A. J.")
Re: beer on planes (steve)
Another possible source of soot. ("Alan Meeker")
SOOT ("Hill, Steve")
Mashout redux (Kevin White)
Re: Dry-Hopping Technique ("S. SNYDER")
Re: Danstar London (Jeff Renner)
Re: Roasted Barley Question... (Jeff Renner)
Diacetyl and Czech Pilsners (Nathan Kanous)
RE: fermentability of first runnings (Brian Lundeen)
re:sooty burners ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
Re: Diacetyl and Czech Pilsners (p.smith)
RE: Diacetyl and Czech Pilsners. ("Houseman, David L")
Soot; Ovens and Bottles; Wyeast 2000. ("H. Dowda")
Increasing Output on Propane Cooker ("Charles R. Stewart")
Fullers ESB Clone ("Vernon, Mark")
Re: Florida Beer Report (Spencer W Thomas)
Beer in Ireland (Nathan Kanous)
"low carb" (Spencer W Thomas)
Force carbonation/food grade CO2 (TOLLEY Matthew)
Smoked malt ("Jens Maudal")
Draft Coils (Matthew t Marino)
Soot ("Houseman, David L")
HBD to go... Palm Pilot Version ("Bob Sutton")
Mashout Again ("Bret Mayden")
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 07:54:21 +0000
From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com>
Subject: diacetyl and Pilsner
RE: p.smith's comments on diacetyl and Czech Pils. First, de gustibus
non disputandem est but I'd like to point out that many of the Czech
Pilsners do have diacetyl at and above threshold level. Pilsner Urquel
which many consider to be the definition of Pils certainly does as do
Budvar and Eger. These are the ones that I have measured. Doc P will
attest that many of the others over there carry it at detectible (by
taste) levels as well. Presumably, therefore, the Czech people expect
and like this quality in their beers. I know I do. I do not do diacetyl
rests for lagers and seem to net about 0.12 - 0.3 mg/L which is about
what the commercial Czech products seem to run. This is not an attempt
to convince anyone to change his mind. If you don't like diacetyl don't
drink Bohemian Pils. I think the German versions generally have it at a
lower level but I have not measured any of those. The procedure is a bit
of a PITA. See http://members3.clubphoto.com/aj258779/Demo_Album/
for a photo of the apparatus.
A.J.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:35:01 -0600 (CST)
From: steve at globaldialog.com
Subject: Re: beer on planes
Steve asked about taking homebrew on planes.
The only time I had a problem was when I had a growler of beer in the
carry on. Im also a ham radio operator and had a couple of 2meter
handheld radios with me. To protect the whole shebang I had the 2 radios
and the growler in the middle of the bag with some sweatpants wrapped
around them. I realized at the gate what that was going to look like
going through the xray so I told them before it even went in that they
were going to want to look at it. Didnt want them thinking it was a
bottle full of a nerve agent or napalm with a remote detonator or timing
device strapped to it and scrambling the anti terrorist squad.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:25:38 -0500
From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu>
Subject: Another possible source of soot.
I too had the problem of soot collecting on the bottom of my brewpot. I use
a cast iron ring-style propane burner which worked just fine when I first
got it but it gradually developed "yellow-flame disease." I tried adjusting
the butterfly air inlet but it had no effect. Then I used a wire brush to
clean out the throat but this too had no effect. I finally figured out that
the problem was a build up of rust on the /inside/ of the ring, partially
obstructing flow. Since it was cast iron there was no problem whacking the
heck out of it with a hammer. This liberated a LOT of material from within
the ring. I kept banging away at it till this stopped and then was treated
to a nice blue flame once again. Till this point I just left my burner
attached to the tripod stand outside and, even though I kept it covered with
a tarp, apparently enough water vapor from the air was able to get inside
and foul things up. Since then I have stored the ring indoors between brew
sessions and haven't had a problem.
-Alan Meeker
Lazy Eight Brewing
Baltimore, MD
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 09:34:24 -0500
From: "Hill, Steve" <SHill at advanta.com>
Subject: SOOT
not sure what kind of burner you have but I had a similar problem about two
years ago.
no matter what I tried, I kept getting yellow flames from my propane burner.
I even removed the burner from the stand and put it in a 450' oven for 2
hours. I thought whatever moisture/substance was in it would burn out!
WRONG.
The culprit was SPIDER WEBS!!! Even if in is only a strand or two, if
messes up the flow of the gas. Apparently webs do not burn/melt with even
that high of heat! The only reason why I know this is because after all my
attempts of fixing the problems, a new regulator, new tubing, even emptying
out the tank, having them purge it, and refilling it, I FINALLY went back to
little "kid" mentality and just RAMMED a skewer used for kabobs on the grill
- ----- down the long metal tube of the burner!!! pulled it out ----JUST A
COUPLE OF WEB STRANDS! I thought, no way could such a small amount of webs
really mess this up. But when I fired it back up! BINGO!!! it worked like
a charm.
Good luck and be CAREFUL!!!
And by the way, the propane tank was NOT hooked up when trying to fix the
problem!!!
AGAIN- be careful -- we need to keep as many brewers alive as possible!!!
Steve
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:15:14 -0500
From: Kevin White <kwhite at bcpl.net>
Subject: Mashout redux
David Houseman writes:
>Pardon me but I don't understand the logic. One the one hand you say "The
>purpose of
>high-temperature mash-out is to fix the wort carbohydrate profile by
>stopping all enzyme activity (hence the high temperature)." On the other you
>say "Enzyme activity will
>continue in the brewpot until the wort temperature reaches 185F or so,
>giving you a bit more fermentables."
I apologize for not writing clearly.
First, what is "mashout?" In the brewing industry, mashout is the process
of pumping the mash from the mash tun to the lauter tun. Since most
homebrewers use a combination mash/lauter tun, I'm uncertain how to define
it for homebrewing, and perhaps this uncertainty helped confuse my earlier
post. For purposes of this discussion, let's define "mashout" as whatever
the homebrewer does at the end of the mashing procedure but before draining
wort into the brewkettle.
What I meant to convey in my earlier post is that if you are not concerned
about the carbohydrate profile of your wort changing slightly from the end
of your mashing procedure to the start of the kettle boil, then there is no
need for a high-temperature mashout ("high temperature" being high enough
to denature the amylase emzymes, >185F). If you do not denature the amylase
enzymes at the end of your mashing procedure, then some amylase activity
will continue during lautering and in the brewkettle until the wort
temperature reaches amylase denaturation temperatures. Thus, _not_ using a
high-temp mashout slightly raises the fermentables fraction in your wort.
If you wish to establish a certain wort carbohydrate profile during the
mash procedure and prevent it from changing, then you can "lock in" or
"fix" the profile by raising the mash temperature high enough to denature
the amylases. Enzyme denaturation is permanent; once denatured, enzymes do
not "recover" at lower temperatures, so the carbohydarate profile of your
wort will not change from enzyme activity.
>
>Since mashouts are typically performed in the 168oF-172oF range, and all
>activity doesn't stop until about 185oF, then mashing out doesn't stop all
>enzyme activity.
>
You are correct that lower temperatures do not denature all amylase
enzymes. But, keep in mind that mashout temperature is selectable by the
brewer depending on results desired. Mashout temperature can be whatever
YOU want it to be, and that depends on what effect, if any, you want it to
have on your wort.
I hope this is a clearer explanation.
********************
Stephen Alexander writes:
>
>Mashout releases an extra 3-5% extract (more with less well modified malt)
>much of which ends up as unfermentable dextrins. This extraction, is the
>big difference.
>
I do not recall ever seeing this in the literature. Is it documented fact
or brewing legend? If you have a citation for a brewing reference that
discusses this effect, please post it or send it to me via private email.
>
>Nah - You can get complete conversion of malt with mash-IN temps of
>80C(=176F) and almost so at 85C(=185F) !! These temps aren't enough to
>shut-down alpha-amylase before conversion completes, and that's the point of
>a mashout.
>
Do you have sources that support this data? Briggs et. al. (Malting and
Brewing Science, Vol 1, pgs 264-265 [Chapman and Hall, London]) list 167F
to 170F as the amylase inactivation temperature. Kunze (Technology Brewing
and Malting, pg 193 [VLB Berlin]) lists alpha amylase inactivation
temperature as 176F and beta amylase at 158F.
You may be referring to the _initial temperature_ of mashing water. Mash
water initial temperatures at these levels quickly drop as the
room-temperature grist is added to the mash tun. Properly implemented, the
stabilization temperature is at or just below the first desired conversion
rest temperature, which is well below the amylase inactivation
temperatures. I doubt that any significant starch conversion can occur at
temperatures at or above 176F.
Kevin White
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 08:51:40 -0500
From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com>
Subject: Re: Dry-Hopping Technique
Tom:
Greetings, I too am an extract/specialty grain brewer.
I have dry hopped a few times and once with plug hops loose in the carboy.
I got the same feeling of under utilization of the hops because they weren't
completely in the beer, floating on top. In the recent past I have used a
stainless steel kitchen knife in the hop bag and that had worked out fine.
I had no problems at bottling time with the loose leaf hops (FYI: I rack
from the secondary to a bottling bucket then to bottles). I did get a few
small pieces to stick in the foot of the racking cane, but I didn't notice
until I was near the end of the racking. I think they may have served as
somewhat of a filter.
Good luck.
Scott Snyder
Trumbull, CT
ssnyder at lbghq.com
Rotten Rotti Brewing Company
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:32:17 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Danstar London
Tim How of London, Ontario, who, like me, seems to be using his
wife's email account <cynthia.howe at sympatico.ca>, (you know what I
mean, I use my wife's account, he uses his. That should save some
emails) writes:
>For others that are fond of this yeast, Yeast Lab A03 "London Ale" appears
>to be an identical strain, and has the added bonus of forming a firmer
>cake, which will be of interest to those who prime in bottles/kegs.
>
>Unfortunately, Yeast Lab products are no longer easily accessible to me
>either. Does anyone know if Wyeast has an equivalent?
Back in 1994, Dan McConnell, owner of Yeast Culture Kit co., which
produced the YeastLab liquid yeasts, posted to HBD the identities of
YeastLab yeasts. A03 London was White Shield. Since Worthington
(part of Bass) White Shield is a classic, bottle conditioned pale ale
from Burton-on-Trent, it is not really a London strain. Who knows
why it acquired that name. I should ask Dan some time.
Although YeastLab liquid yeasts are no longer produced, you can get
slants from YCKC. Growing up yeast from a slant is not that much
more trouble than using a tube.
The posted IDs of Wyeast do not show White Shield as the origin of
any of their yeasts, but one may be the same with a different name.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:48:46 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Roasted Barley Question...
"Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> wrote:
> I recently found myself in need of roasted barley for the stout that
>I will be making at the end of next week. I went to the local shop here in
>town and asked for roasted barley, and was handed a 1 lb bag of, "Munton's
>Roasted Non-Malted Black Barley." I asked the owner if this was the same
>thing as the Roasted Barley specified in the recipe I'll be using; he didn't
>know (it's not a homebrew shop, but a gourmet food shop with a homebrew
>section) and his son, who is a homebrewer, didn't seem to know either. Well,
>for $1.50, I went ahead and stuck it in the bag, but I am not quite sure
>what this is, what it is for, and whether I should even consider putting it
>in my stout. The kernels appear uncracked and quite black in color. So what
>do you all think?
I think it's exactly what you want. As a matter of fact, it's better
than some of the domestic roasted barley, which is too light.
Jeff
- --
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:01:25 -0600
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: Diacetyl and Czech Pilsners
Mr. Smith and everyone else,
In my readings and understandings, diacetyl is, in fact, a
significant component of the flavor of Czech Pilsners. I can't quote a
source right off hand. There have even been discussions in past years on
the Homebrewers Digest that some folks have worked diligently to convince
the brewing world that diacetly and DMS are both glaring faults in lager
beers. I, personally, disagree. I'll dig around a bit and see what I can
find, but I'm firm in my commitment that diacetyl is a classic feature of
Czech Pilsners.
From Pete Ensmingers article in Brewing Techniques:
http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue5.3/urquell.html
Profile of a Classic Beer
The final product has a bitterness level of about 40 IBUs and a nicely
balanced aroma of Saaz and malt. Despite the relatively high IBUs, Pilsner
Urquell impresses most beer aficionados as having a very soft and malty
taste, no doubt the result of soft water and triple-decoction mashing, both
of which emphasize malt character in finished beers. The original gravity
of the export is about 12 deg P (1.048 S.G.), with a final gravity of 3.8
deg P (1.015 S.G.), and an alcohol content of 4.4% (v/v) (18). The brewery
also produces 10 deg P (1.040 S.G.) beer to appeal to the increasingly
lighter Czech tastes (17,19).
Pilsner Urquell's flavor profile includes some diacetyl notes, detectable
to some beer drinkers as a buttery flavor. The brewery claims the maximum
allowable level is 0.12 ppm, a bit on the high side, but probably due to
the beer's incomplete fermentation. Few, however, seem to find the flavor
objectionable (9). Some would even say that it enhances the beer by giving
it added complexity.
From the BJCP Guidelines:
2A. Bohemian Pilsner
Aroma: Rich with a complex malt and a spicy, floral, Saaz hop bouquet.
Moderate diacetyl acceptable.
Appearance: Light gold to deep copper-gold, clear, with a dense, creamy
white head.
Flavor: Rich, complex maltiness combined with pronounced soft, rounded
bitterness and flavor from Saaz hops. Moderate diacetyl acceptable.
Bitterness is prominent but never harsh, and does not linger: The
aftertaste is balanced between malt and hops. Clean, no fruitiness or esters.
Mouthfeel: Medium-bodied, medium carbonation. Overall Impression: Crisp,
complex and well-rounded yet refreshing.
History: First brewed in 1842, this style was the original clear,
light-colored beer.
Comments: Uses Moravian malted barley and a decoction mash for rich, malt
character. Saaz hops and low sulfate, low carbonate water provide a
distinctively soft, rounded hop profile.
Ingredients: Low sulfate and low carbonate water, Saaz hops, Moravian
malted barley.
Vital Statistics: OG: 1.044-1.056
IBUs: 35-45 FG: 1.013-1.017
nathan in madison, wi
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 10:03:46 -0600
From: Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca>
Subject: RE: fermentability of first runnings
Stephen Alexander writes:
> Once corrected for gravity it
> becomes clear that
> there are more fermentables and maltose per unit extract in
> first runnings
> than latter runnings. Not only does mashout decrease fermentability
> slightly but sparging does too.
Do you have any numbers for how much more fermentable the wort is? As in,
you could expect on average your wort's terminal gravity to be X points
lower or expect your AA to be Y percentage points higher. I don't sparge, or
batch sparge very lightly, and I wonder if this makes enough of a difference
for me to be achieving TG's in the 1.006-1.010 range a lot of the time even
with mash temps in the 66C-68C range. Also, it has been written that
no-sparge brews tend to be "maltier". I have always took this to mean a
higher terminal gravity. Are the two not related? So many questions, so
little time.
BTW, somebody suggested my thermometer may be inaccurate, so I checked it
against a good mercury thermometer that I borrowed from the Chem dept at
work. My thermometer consistently read 0.3-0.5C high (which is good to know)
but I don't think that is enough to account for my low gravities.
My hydrometer accuracy remains unknown, and I do have another hydrometer,
but it reads only in Brix (specifically -5 to +5). How much is each Brix
degree in gravity points?
Thanks,
Brian
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:37:11 -0500
From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com>
Subject: re:sooty burners
What everyone has said about properly adjusting the air-shutters on
a gas burner is true. Though on most high output burners the design
is such that at reduced output (throttled down) the velocity of the
incoming gas doesn't create the needed turbulence to thoroughly mix
the gas/air mixture before it emerges and is burnt. A poor mixture leads
to soot. This is more prevalent in the jet burner type vs the ring burner
type. The jet has virtually no mixing chamber and soots profusely when
throttled down, a ring burner has a little more of a mixing path before
the gas emerges creating somewhat less soot. The bottom
line is 170K BTU is more heat than you can keep under a 10 gallon
kettle and when throttled back you get a little soot. As someone mentioned
the big problem here is carbon monoxide if you are brewing indoors.
The soot is just a pain in the butt to clean up.
N.P. Lansing
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:48:57 -0600
From: p.smith at gooseisland.com
Subject: Re: Diacetyl and Czech Pilsners
Nathan Kanous took me to task for finding diacetyl to be a fault in Czech
pilsners. Indeed, I was wrong, at least according to the BJCP. It's simply
not my taste.
It is not universally accepted that diacetyl is a proper pilsner profile.
Most lager strains, and most procedures, are devoted to its reduction. See:
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue1.2/fix.html
http://brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.1/miller.html
In addition, see the World Beer Cup guidelines:
15. German-Style Pilsener
A classic German Pilsener is very light straw or golden in color and well
hopped. Hop bitterness is high. Noble-type hop aroma and flavor are moderate
and quite obvious. It is a well-attenuated, medium-bodied beer, but a malty
residual sweetness can be perceived in aroma and flavor. Fruity esters and
diacetyl should not be perceived. There should be no chill haze. Its head
should be dense and rich.
16. Bohemian-Style Pilsener
"Bohemian Pilseners are slightly more medium bodied, and their color can be
as dark as light amber. This style balances moderate bitterness and
noble-type hop aroma and flavor with a malty, slightly sweet, medium body.
Diacetyl may be perceived in very low amounts. There should be no chill
haze. Its head should be dense and rich."
In truth, since PU has moved from older, wood fermentation vats to
cylindro-conicals, I wouldn't be surprised if we find "very low" amounts to
be reduced to sub-threshold values in this paragon of Bohemian pilsners, and
since it "defined the definition" in the first place, I'll bet diacetyl will
be eventually removed all together from style definitions. In "very low
amounts," I have found that it is at times difficult to distinguish "butter"
from other flavor components - chiefly maltiness, in syncretic combination
with other characteristics such as "estery" and the sensation "mouthfeel."
However, ultimately I don't care. I just happen to not care for diacetyl in
my pilsners, personally find it to be a fault, and so take steps to avoid
it - a solid diacetyl rest and thorough sampling/micro. elimination. To
each their own!
Paul Smith
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:20:40 -0500
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: RE: Diacetyl and Czech Pilsners.
Yes, diacetyl is a flavor component of the Bohemian Pilsner style at up to
moderate levels. It is the only lager style where diacetyl is acceptable.
The yeast employed and the fermentation processes used results in
noticeable presence of diacetyl. It goes well with the other
characteristics of the beer, IMHO.
Dave Houseman
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:25:28 -0500
From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at axs2k.net>
Subject: Soot; Ovens and Bottles; Wyeast 2000.
I am sure everyone knows this, but, an old Boy Scout trick is to coat
the bottoms of pots to be used over propane with a liquid detergent,
prior to placing the pot on the fire. Any should work, but intuitively
it seems the 'clear' types may be better. Of course this doesn't fix
the real problem, fixing the burner, but makes clean-up easier.
The recent posts about sanitizing bottles (and other heat resistant
materials) with dry heat (aka in the oven) are right on. If fact, dry
heat used for 2 hours after the material being heated has reached 350 F
(180 C) will not only sanitize, but will sterilize (references on
request). It should be noted that many, if not most, home ovens do not
maintain the thermostats temps, but vary within a range, sometimes being
five to ten degrees less than posted. 285 F (140 C) for three hours
will also do the trick. This all assumes you want to kill any
sporeformers in your bottles, however most sanitizers do not do that
anyway. 350 for 2 hr. works well for me and I do not worry about the
temp fluctuations.
My Wyeast 2000 RFI resulted in some interesting posts and one
suggestion that I, perhaps, did not know how to use a smak-pak. First,
thanks to all who shared their experiences with this yeast. Several
people responded to say that they, too, were concerned at the lack of
krauzen in the starters (for those who made them) or in the fermentor.
As I had noted, in the starter, the production of CO2 was not abated,
only the foam. This occurred in my fermentor also. A couple of folks
also noted this. However, when new wort was pitched on the cake the foam
was rapid and massive. I noted an odd smell in my starter (emesis,
that's puke to some) which was not commented upon by anyone, except the
great chemist, brewer and ginger ale aficionado from the far north,
resulting in my methylating a bit and shooting it through the old gas
liquid chromatograph. The culprits were likely butyric and iso-butyric
acid. I suppose from something in the starter..(huummm, the cat was
mucking about the pot before I put the wort in the bottles, maybe a
little fleur de hair ball, what). As expected the yeast made a lovely
pilsener.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:46:42 -0500
From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com>
Subject: Increasing Output on Propane Cooker
I've got a propane cooker that I picked up for about $45 or so from Home
Chepo, that claims to deliver 130,000 btu. It was great for five gallon
batches, but now that I'm brewing 10-15 gallon batches (I've been doing
joint brew sessions with some beginner friends of mine), it seems a little
anemic. How can I increase the output? Should I drill out the oriface?
Anything else? Just a little more power . . . .
Also, I've been selling some 3 gallon cornelius kegs on eBay. A few ( 2 or
three out of 100) have come back with lids that just didn't seem to seal,
although they don't look bent or warped. Is there different style lids, or
are they more-or-less universal. I have been pairing lids that say
"Firestone" on top with the pin-lock kegs - I assume this is correct?
Thanks,
Chip Stewart
Charles at TheStewarts.com
http://Charles.TheStewarts.com
Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section
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Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 13:57:46 -0600
From: "Vernon, Mark" <VERNONMARK at phibred.com>
Subject: Fullers ESB Clone
I am trying to come up with a recipe for Fullers ESB - the web site states
they use Pale and Crystal malt, Target, Challenger, Northdown and Goldings
Hops. Does anyone have a good recipe for this wonderful brew. I have looked
at the recopies on The Brewery and was not that impressed. As a side note I
was once told that one of the Wyeast strains was the Fullers strain - anyone
remember which one that is?
Mark Vernon, MCSE, MCT
Sr. Network Engineer - LanTech
Pioneer Hi-Bred Int'l
vernonmark at phibred.com
(515)270-4188
There are no secrets to success. It is the result of preparation, hard work
and learning from failure.
- -- General Colin Powell
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 15:02:39 -0500
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Florida Beer Report
Well, the bottle said "brewed by Ybor City". It was labelled
"Hurricane Reef." A friend told me on Friday that the Ybor City
brewery does a lot of contract brewing, so that probably explains it.
I found 5 different beers from "Hurricane Reef." The aforementioned
Caribbean Style Pilsner, a Pale Ale, Raspberry Wheat, an IPA (I
think?) and one more I can't remember.
=S
Phil Sides> Spencer, I think you may be talking about Miami
Phil Sides> Brewing Company's Caribbean Style Pilsner, not Ybor
Phil Sides> City. I am not sure whose Pale Ale you are
Phil Sides> referencing... To my knowledge YCBC does not produce
Phil Sides> one of those either.
Phil Sides> Phil
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:17:49 -0600
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: Beer in Ireland
Hello All,
I've got a colleague headed to the Emerald Isle for a few days. In fact,
he'll probably be in Dublin on St. Patrick's Day! Anyhow, I thought that
while he was there, I'd send him somewhere to have a pint for me. Good
beer only, no restrictions on style, just good beer.
As I understand, he and his wife will spend some time in Dublin, Shannon,
Cork, Kerry, and Waterford. I just told him I was sending him somewhere to
have a pint for me. No reason they couldn't eat while having a pint,
should the opportunity arise. Send me your suggestions, please.
nathan in madison, wi
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 16:01:37 -0500
From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu>
Subject: "low carb"
I've always found it curious that, at least in the context of these
fad diets, that alcohol is not considered a carbohydrate. Chemically,
that's exactly what it IS!
=Spencer
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 09:05:47 +1100
From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au>
Subject: Force carbonation/food grade CO2
From: Aldrich4 at t-online.de (Wayne Aldrich)
<snip>
>I did some searching
>on the internet and was surprised to find very little detailed
>information on forced carbonation. Does anyone know
>of a good published book on the subject?
<snip>
Here's a link to an article called 'Wait, Shake or Inject - Three Foolproof
Ways to Carbonate Beer in the Keg' by Ashton Lewis:
http://www.byo.com/00jun/feature.html
>Also is there
>such a thing as "food grade" carbon dioxide, or can I use
>CO2 from a welding shop?
My CO2 cylinder has a bright blue tag attached to the top that says 'FOOD
GRADE'.
Cheers
...Matt...
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:28:58 +0100
From: "Jens Maudal" <Jens.maudal at c2i.net>
Subject: Smoked malt
I am very fond of Schlenkerla Rauchbeer and would like to
try and make my own smoked malt.
Has anybody tried it and what kind of gadget did you
use. I have also heard that the malt should be wetted out
slightly before smoking it.
What kind of wood is suitable and what sort of time intervals
are we talking about.
Thanks!
SKAAL!
Jens
Jens P. Maudal jens.maudal at c2i.net
Greetings from "BottomsUp Brewery"
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Visit my humble RIMS and homebrew page:
http://home.c2i.net/bottomsup/index.htm
Norbrygg bryggeside: http://www.norbrygg.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 11:53:37 -0700
From: Matthew t Marino <mattncherie at juno.com>
Subject: Draft Coils
I want to construct a cooling coil for my draft system, I dont have or
want an extra fridge and I figured a coil about 25 feet or so would do
the job. My question is will copper(cant afford stainless) contaminate
the beer during the time it is sitting in the coil say overnight or after
a couple days. Should I discard the first pint or so after it has sat?
That seems like a waste considering i will only pull a couple pints a day
or so. Any suggestions or warnings?
I have about 25 feet of 3/8 copper tubing from an old immersion chiller I
wanted to use for the draft coil. I was wondering what would be best to
really clean the inside I have access to caustic and acid cleaners but
was wondering how they would react with the copper. Any advice would be
appreciated.
Thanks
MADMAN
"I got to keep myself faithful, lord I been so good, except for drinking,
but he knew that I would." -Tom Waits
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 14:06:15 -0500
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: Soot
All of the posters concerning the yellow flame as a source of soot were
correct. However just in case anyone still has a problem with soot after
taking the advice, one thing you can to at least make the problem easier to
deal with is use soap. Take a bar of bath soap and rub this all over the
bottom of your kettle. Only on the OUTSIDE (for the newbies). When you're
finished brewing the soap and soot wash off easily.
Dave Houseman
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Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2001 22:15:07 -0500
From: "Bob Sutton" <Bob.Sutton at fluor.com>
Subject: HBD to go... Palm Pilot Version
Someone asked about converting the HTML Digest to Pilot Doc format using the
link at the bottom of the HTML page. With a little futzing around I managed
to make this work - as the page link doesn't work correctly.
Simply place the link below into your browser address window and "Go". In a
few seconds a download window should appear. Confirm your download intention
and a Homebrew_Digest.prc file will download. You can then upload this into
your Pilot and read it using Aportis Doc (or compatible). Overall it seems
like a klutzy way. Here goes...
http://pilot.screwdriver.net/convert.cgi?url=http%3A%2F%2Fhbd.org%2Fhbd%2FCu
rrentHBD.html&title=Homebrew+Digest
This should all fit on one line !
[ENABLE JANITOR ALERT]
Pat - if you replace the http address (<a
href=http://pilot.screwdriver.net/2doc.cgi>) on the HTML page and use the
one above - I'd venture an ill-educated guess, that the link would work as
intended.
[DISABLE JANITOR ALERT]
Someone else suggested using AvantGo... an excellent suggestion... but for
some reason AvantGo reports the file (http://hbd.org/hbd/CurrentHBD.html) as
too large to download (YMMV) - even with a download cap at 500k. I'm still
trying to find a solution. If anyone has a AvantGo link that works - please
post it.
Cheers!
Bob
Fruit Fly Brewhaus
Yesterdays' Technology Today
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2001 04:05:32 -0000
From: "Bret Mayden" <brmayden at hotmail.com>
Subject: Mashout Again
Steven Alexander writes: "Nah - You can get complete conversion of malt with
mash-IN temps of80C(=176F) and almost so at 85C(=185F) !! These temps
aren't enough to shut-down alpha-amylase before conversion completes, and
that's the point of a mashout."
Question: I thought that mash-out is supposed to stop enzyme activity & make
the sugars easier to extract from the grist. If enzyme activity continues at
176-185F, then what is the point of mash out?
Bret Mayden
brmayden at hotmail.com
Oklahoma City
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