FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies http://www.northernbrewer.com 1-800-681-2739 Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: alcohol metabolism (ensmingr) pollution concern ("Benjy Edwards") Hudson Valley Homebrewers 2001 Competition (David Sherfey) early off-flavor question (darrell.leavitt) ADH ("A. J.") Re: Beer in Ireland (Jeff Renner) RE: bottling with LME - primers & starters (Craig Agnor) Re: Dropping at 14 hours, I mean really dropping (Jeff Renner) Re: History help (Jeff Renner) Diacetyl in Yates/Pivo pils (Paul Kerchefske) Old Speckled Hen (Jacob Jacobsen) Poor man's agar ("Joel King") Re:Hopback ("Brew Dude") Dry Hopping Summary ("Tom Williams") (Ron and Aleta Jacomen) Historical APA ("Al Beers") re: Mashout _increases_ fermentability ("Stephen Alexander") re Coldie... (scott morgan) Aussie Beers ("Aussie Brewer") Nitrogen freeze dried hops???? ("Stephen Alexander") 1098 and diacetyl (Marc Sedam)
* * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * Bluebonnet Brew-Off Entry Deadline is 2/25/01! * http://welcome.to/bluebonnet for more information * * Drunk Monk Challenge Entry Deadline is 3/17/01! * http://www.sgu.net/ukg/dmc/ for more information * * Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Entry Deadline is 3/20/01! * http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ for more information * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 01:55:37 -0500 From: ensmingr at twcny.rr.com Subject: alcohol metabolism Dominick and HBDr's, There are 2 main iso-forms of aldehyde dehydrogenase (ALDH). About 1/2 of Asians and about 1/3 of South American Indians are deficient in ALDH-I, so they accumulate acetaldehyde. Accumulation of acetaldehyde is typically blamed for turning "bright red". Reference: Goedde, HW and Agarwal, DP (1989) Alcoholism. Biomedical and Genetic Aspects. Pergamon Press, NY. Alcohol metabolism: EtOH ---[ADH]---> Acetaldehyde ---[ALDH]---> Acetate Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Life Under the Sun: http://www.yale.edu/yup/lifesun From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> >The stuff that your grandmother snuck into your gramdfather's coffee to >control his drinking (disulfiram) blocks the action of aldhehyde >dehydrogenase thus allowing acetaldehyde to pool. Some orientals are >genetically deficient with respect to this enzyme which is why many of >them can't drink. Actually, my grandmother was the lush - but that's another story. I always thought that it was a lack of alcohol dehydrogenase that was the reason some individuals of some racial groups, particularly asians, had trouble with alcohol. I know a Japanese woman who gets drunk, and I mean fully drunk, on a single glass of wine. I also know a Chinese gentleman who turns BRIGHT red after a couple of beers. Both of these effects are fast. I know that A.J. was far from his references, so if I've been wrong all this time, and it's happened before in other venues, I'd appreciate verification. Thanks, Domenick Seattle, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 03:36:37 -0500 From: "Benjy Edwards" <rdbedwards at hotmail.com> Subject: pollution concern I urge those of you who dump your sanitizing agent (whether it be iodophor, bleach, etc.) onto your lawn, the driveway, or some other place outdoors (even a storm sewer) to please consider your actions. The chemicals are toxic and damage the environment, as well as pollute groundwater. Moreover, dumping chemicals in such a way is in violation of the federal Clean Water Act. As brewers we should be mindful of our environment and the delicate balance of the ecosystem. Many environmental groups desire everyone to limit the amount of household cleaners that we dispose of in our drains, as well. Chemicals such as bleach tax our water treatment plants. Sincerely, Benjamin Edwards rdbedwards at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 06:22:44 -0500 From: David Sherfey <sherf at warwick.net> Subject: Hudson Valley Homebrewers 2001 Competition Saturday, March 24, 2001 The Hudson Valley Homebrewers Present Their 11th Annual Homebrew Competition at the Hyde Park Brewery, Rt. 9, Hyde Park, NY More complete competition information is available on our website, but briefly; Beer, Mead, and Cider entries are welcomed. Entry categories are per the 1999 BJCP Style Guidelines. The entry fee is $5.00 per entry, or for five or more entries, the fee is $4.00 per entry. Entries will be accepted between March 3 and noon March 17. Two (2) 10 to 16 oz bottles per entry. Awards for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place and prizes will be available for each category at the discretion of the judges. The Best of Show award will be a hand-cast brass brewers mashing fork, custom made by our Prez, Steve Thomas. Judges and stewards are needed. If you are interested in participating, please contact the Judging or Steward Coordinator listed below. Judges may bring their entries to the competition provided that entry forms (judges fees to be paid at the competition) are sent to the Competition Organizer to arrive by the entry due date. Judges entries must arrive before 8:45 AM. Please check the website info for more details on judge entries. SHIP TO LOCATION: Party Creations 345 Rokeby Road Red Hook, NY 12571 (845)-758-0661 The local drop-off locations are listed on the website. Competition Organizer, David Sherfey Judge Coordinator, David Sherfey sherf at warwick.net Steward Coordinator, Tony Becampis all_grain at hotmail.com Competition Registrar, David Tuohey davidt7826 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 06:39:41 -0500 (EST) From: darrell.leavitt at plattsburgh.edu Subject: early off-flavor question A steam beer that I made on 1/28 was bottled on 2/10. I had tried it as I took the gravity reading (going into the secondary) and it tasted good to me. However, just 4 days into the bottles,...I could not resist, and decided to sample...well...there was an off-flavor/taste that concerns me. My wife called it "musty"...and the best I can get is to say that it re- minds me of sort-of-dirty-socks! I have read a good deal about off-flavors, and while my sanitation is generally pretty compulsive....I am concerned that some nasties have finally gotten the best of me... I have though that this could be HSA in that I poured from several large pots into my lauter-tun that I had just cleaned....and use as my kettle. Could the be the "cardboard" that some have spoken about....OR could I be getting an off - flavor from the yeast....California V ....that may go away with time....cold conditioning....?? Wishfull thinking I suppose..... Any thoughts woudl // would be very welcome... And while I am at it, thanks to Pat and the other Janitors and hosts of this list, and also to all of the folks who have kept home-brewing alive.... worried. ...Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 13:25:36 +0000 From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: ADH For Domenick: You're right but not at odds with what I wrote. Orientals and women of all races have less >alcohol< dehydrogenase than we hairy chested western European males. Hence they get >drunk< faster and stay drunk longer. Disulfiram blocks >aldehyde< dehydrogenase causing the acetaldehyde produced by oxidation of alcohol catalyzed by >alcohol< dehydrogenase to pool. People treated with disulfiram suffer from the effects of acetaldehyde poisoning, not the toxic effects of alcohol. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 14:07:29 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Beer in Ireland Bill Frazier <billfrazier at worldnet.att.net writes: >Wilf says to stick with the Guinness_its the real original irish stout. I >can't argue with that advice But I will. Don't limit yourself to Guinness. It's a great beer, but I preferred the slightly more chocolatey, perhaps less sharp flavor of Murphy's. It is not as universally available as Guinness, but in the south and west (it's brewed in cork), you should be able to find it, and typically for 20p less a pint. When I could find it, it was my choice, but when only Guinness was available, I wasn't at all unhappy. The third national Irish stout, Beamish, also brewed in Cork, didn't suit my palate. I found it thin and unbalanced. But as A.J. wrote, "de gustibus non disputandem est." Unfortunately, the serving temperature of Guinness has kept going down, to the point that In the US, the distributor requires it be served at 40F, or 4C! In Ireland, may pubs will have two Guinness taps - one with a red border on the pump clip, and one with a blue border, for COLD! Ugh! Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 13:25:03 -0700 (MST) From: Craig Agnor <Craig.Agnor at Colorado.EDU> Subject: RE: bottling with LME - primers & starters > I've not seen anyone mention bottling with LME... other that vague > rememberances of someone saving a litre of wort to do so with... I'd > like to boil up some LME & water to prime my beer with as i have a ton > of it, and no DME... > > thoughts? Jeremy, My guess as to why most people don't use LME as priming sugar is that it is a PITA to precisely measure out the small quantities that you need for bottling. I saw your post and a possible LME priming technique hit me like a ton of bricks. I'm primarily a grain brewer, but use LME to make a batch of starters periodically. I can the starters in regular Ball jars currently, but have also bottled them as suggested in TNCJOHB. So, you could probably do something similar and make a batch of canned wort - probably without much in the way of hops. When you need one to do your bottling, just pour one into the bottling bucket and away you go. Plus, they could double as starter medium. The hitch would seem to be getting the right gravity and volume in each bottle/jar. The calculations for priming in this way are very similar to those for computing how much gyle to save when carbonating via kraeusening. The principal difference being that the specific gravity of the gyle is not necessarily the same as the original beer. For example, on pp. 331-332 of TNCJOHB Charlie gives some relations for computing the amount of gyle to save which can be easily used. For carbonation levels matching those of 3/4c. of corn sugar in 5 gal. of beer the amount of gyle you need can be determined using the following relationship. 12*(gal. of beer) Qts. of gyle = -------------------------- (SG of gyle - 1.000)*1,000 or for the algebraically challenged 12*(gal. of beer) SG of gyle = 1.000 + -------------------- 1,000*(Qts of gyle) So, if you can wort in 1qt canning jars, you need to have gyle of SG 1.060 so that you can prime your 5 gal. batch with a single 1qt jar. When canning the starters/primers you'd just have to be careful to get the right gravity of the gyle for the volume of the containers you're going to store them in. I should say that I've never actually done this, but it appears to be a simple and accurate way to use LME as priming sugar. Plus, if you already make starters it may actually make bottling easier and save time. Is anyone out there using a similar wort starter/priming sugar in a bottle technique? I hope this is helpful. Cheers, Craig Agnor Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:33:18 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Dropping at 14 hours, I mean really dropping "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com> asked >here is the question. Are outgassing of CO2 and hop trub removal good at >14 hours? It depends, I think, but it is certainly an accepted practice in some traditional British breweries. The 14 hours, which I (and others) have quoted from Dr. Cone, was based on average growth rates for yeast, I think. So it may be earlier or later in some cases. He was specifically speaking of oxygenation, not dropping, and in particular spoke of breweries that have fermenters twice the capacity of one brew. In this case, they are introducing freshly chilled and oxygenated wort from the second brew of the day into 14 hour old wort, which gives the yeast new oxygen. This is apparently common in Germany. In the case of dropping, you do run the risk of leaving behind some of your yeast with the trub, as has been suggested here. However, I've never had that be a problem. I think there is plenty of suspended yeast with the strains I've used. Some strongly flocculating strains may be different. Depending on the characteristics of your yeast, this could result in pretty high levels of diacetyl, which is typical of beers from breweries that drop. Irish yeast, which you may have used for your stout, will react this way, and some should be OK in a stout. If you and Nathan used Chico (1056) for your APA, it probably won't produce diacetyl. Hope not, at least, as I think it would be out of place. I practiced vigorous dropping on a few ales, but stopped as I found the resulting diacetyl levels too high for my taste. Hope this helps. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 18:50:52 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: History help Bob Bratcher wrote: >Looking for some info on the history and evolution of >American Pale Ales. Can anyone point me in the right >direction? >I've found a few things on what it should taste and look >like and recipes abound but not much more. I'd suggest checking out Brewing Techniques web site http://www.brewingtechniques.com/. I know they have had an article or two on this subject, but I don't know if it made it online before they shut down. The latest Zymurgy also had an article on Sierra Nevada. I think that New Albion's pale ale from California back in the (early?) 80's was the original, and its indirect successor, Sierra Nevada (which I think may have had some of the same people) popularized the style. It's now a classic imitated around the country and, indeed, out of the country. Good luck. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 16:40:29 -0800 (PST) From: Paul Kerchefske <wadworth6 at yahoo.com> Subject: Diacetyl in Yates/Pivo pils Perhaps we have overlooked the most obvious reason for the lack of diacetyl in this infamous brew. As we all know water goes counter clockwise in the land of OZ. But the land of origin for this beer is in the northern hemispere where things go clockwise down the drains. The question now is which way was the beer whirlpooled? PK at Keepers of odd knowledge INC. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Feb 2001 22:30:45 -0500 (EST) From: Jacob Jacobsen <brewer at cotse.com> Subject: Old Speckled Hen Can anyone help me out with a recipe for Old Speckled Hen? I found over twenty references in the archives, but no recipes. Thanks, Jake Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 03:41:21 -0000 From: "Joel King" <joel_d_king at hotmail.com> Subject: Poor man's agar p.smith at gooseisland.com wrote on 2/10: >>Or, if you are cheap like me (and cannot obtain either of the above >>gratis), go to your local asian food store, obtain raw agar-agar, >>boil 80 g/liter of wort, autoclave (pressure cook at 15 psi/121C for >>15 minutes) and voila, you have wort agar! Sounds like what I do, but I'm even lazier / sleazier. I bought the agar from an asian market, and chopped it up so I could measure it by volumes easier. I don't bother to boil everything together, as I discovered that I can just dump the dry ingredients in, top off with water, and pressure cook - and it works just fine. Get some trub and other nasties at the bottom, but the top pours off clean. I make a cup of agar at a time, which lasts a long time. Whenever I need to pour some I reheat it in the pressure cooker, but with the weight off, for about 20 minutes. I use 8 oz bottles from Starbucks that their refrigerated coffee drinks come in. 1 tablespoon DME 1 (heaping) tablespoon agar A pinch yeast nutrient A hop pellet or two Dump dry ingredients into the bottle. Top off with water. Pressure cook (10 minutes venting, 15 minutes at temperature with the weight rocking). Don't pour those slants or plates until the bottle cools to the point where you can hold it comfortably with your bare hand, that keeps the condensation problem to a minimum. - Joel King Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 04:53:17 -0000 From: "Brew Dude" <brewdude_ at hotmail.com> Subject: Re:Hopback I was also thinking about putting a hopback in before the counterflow. I found this link.... http://www.pbsbeer.com/pbs/hopback.html I have nothing to do with this company, but I may consider buying one of these in the future. Hope it helps. Brewdude Society of Northeastern Ohio Brewers Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 08:47:43 -0500 From: "Tom Williams" <williams2353 at hotmail.com> Subject: Dry Hopping Summary Thanks to all who responded privately and by posts to my question about dry hopping. This forum is far better than a book for working out a technique. The original question was about the desireability of putting loose hops in the secondary for dry-hopping, as opposed to hops in bags. Here is a summary of the 9 private and 7 HBD posts: Dry hopping techniques fall into 3 categories: 1) loose or plug hops directly in secondary - 5 responses in favor 2) pellets directly in secondary - 4 responses in favor 3) loose or plug hops in weighted bags - 7 responses in favor - Those who do not use bags generally agreed with my suspicion that the bags impede hop utilization. - Among those who do not use bags, responses were split almost equally between "the hops/plug residue are a PITA when racking" and "the hops/plug residue are no problem when racking". - There were no observations concerning the improved hop utilization of weighted bags over floating bags. - Several pellet users observed that the freshness of pellets for this purpose seems superior to loose hops or plugs, and that the smaller particles settle out more readily. I conclude that the trouble with handling the hops during racking and cleaning is a matter of personal tolerance and patience. I am also still skeptical whether weighting the hop bag does much to improve the utilization. Therefore, next time I will dry hop using pellets directly in the secondary. Cheers, Tom Williams Dunwoody, Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 10:02:01 -0500 From: Ron and Aleta Jacomen <ledanron at bignet.net> Subject: <html> Hello Folks,<br> I enjoy your newsletter to the utmost.And now I need to ask a question of anybody who cares to answer.<br> I bought some coriander powder..............how should I use it.Gosh an ounce cost me a whopping 35 cents so I don't want to waste the money.Please help me.<br> Ron.<br> <x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep> <font face="Comic Sans MS">Off The Wagon Brewing !<br> No Web Page.....Just Good Beer.<br> </font></html> Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 14:03:54 -0500 From: "Al Beers" <albeers at hotmail.com> Subject: Historical APA Bob wrote: "Looking for some info on the history and evolution of American Pale Ales. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I've found a few things on what it should taste and look like and recipes abound but not much more." Try: http://www.beerhistory.com/library/ Good luck, Al Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 15:59:00 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: Mashout _increases_ fermentability Nathaniel P. Lansing writes ... >Steve Alexander [..] states, >>[...] beta-amylase was quite active >>during mashout rest at 78C in this case. > A bad conclusion because Alpha amylase does create fermentables, The total fermentables was not the basis of my statement, Del. Rather it's the ratio of glucose:maltose:maltotriose produced. They were 7:44:15 by weight, so roughly 7:22:5 by molar concentration. You cannot explain so much maltose except by a lot of beta-amylosis. - -- >I've been saying this quite a bit during previous discussions on mash-out. >I was always rebuffed with the comment that BA was for the most part >entirely denatured by the time you reach mash out. You've mis-remembered our positions Del. What I posted in June 2000 was: DEL>The difference in fermentability comes DEL>not from the denaturing of BA but from the also increased action of DEL>AA. [...] > SA>No. Each enzyme increases activity (almost) the same as temps increase. SA>[...] different fermentability. Denaturing is the factor. In early April 2000 I posted an example with some math that must not have been well understood. Let me outline the argument simply. Imagine two identical mashes with final saccharification rest of say 67C. One called 'M' has mashout (say 77C) for 20' and the other called 'N' (for no-mashout) is left at 67C for 20'. What is the relative amounts of beta-amylase activity in the two mash tuns during this final 20 minute period ? BA is denaturing with a half-life of say 12 minutes roughly at 67C. At 77C this halflife is roughly 5 minutes. The initial activity of BA at 77C is ~double the activity at 67C. The instantaneous activity over time can be plotted: |M | M | M | NNNM | M NNNN | M NNNNN ___________M______ NNN__ 5 10 15 20 Both curves show an exponential decay in the amount of BA remaining. The mashout case has higher initial activity and faster decay. If all other conditions are maintained then the total activity of BA is directly related to the area under each curve. If is not obvious w/o calculation which area is larger. BA activity for the two cases is similar. The sign (direction) of the difference (which one has more BA activity) is not determined by the event of mashout, but by small parametric changes like the actual temps. and half-life periods at those temps and the smallish starch release the boost. - -- > So now the wind blows a different direction and our conclusions are >all different. No Del, I think you are just creating new misunderstandings from the same position I stated last year. YOU argued and still argue that mashout has a critical impact on final fermentability. I've always stated the difference was small and not easily determined. >All along I had mentioned this cited test was not a good experiment to >substantiate the value of mash out on fermentability and yield. It isn't a study of 'no-mashout' and you will probably never find one. It is an excellent study of mash-out vs pre-mashout carbohydrates and demonstrates that mashout versus any reasonable expectation of no-mashout only makes a small difference in fermentability. >I have to >call this a test since there is no control and doesn't qualify as an >experiment. NO - a test is a portion of an experiment designed to challenge a hypothesis and that typically requires a control. This paper is a longitudinal study of the mash carbo species throughout a mash cycle. Webster would call it an experiment tho' a purist might label it a study - never a test - so what ? That the Tuborg study appeared in 3 peer reviewed journals and is twice references in M&BS speaks to the value of the data. >Not many conclusions can be drawn, only that in this >case here is what happened. Steve_did_say >>in this case<<. Well here are two conclusions. My previous statements that mashout is NOT the immediate cessation of beta-amylase activity is demonstrated. Also my statement that the impact of mashout vs no-mashout on final fermentability is small is supported with an upper bound of 2.3% for this case. > To put another fly in the ointment: Now that we are accepting that >>>beta-amylase was quite active during mashout rest at 78C<< >Why does a high temperature rest even produce a less fermentable >wort? No Del - there is no fly in the ointment of anyone who can follow some basic math in my 'enzyme kinetics 101' post last April. The factors relating the rate of conversion to temp are 1/ enzymes of interest increase in activity by nearly a factor of two for every 10C boost, and 2/ these enzymes increase in their rate of denaturing as temp increases (very roughly a 2X - 6X decrease per +10C). If the half-life is long compared to the mash period, then we can get MORE total enzyme activity by boosting the temp. If the half-life is short compared to the mash period, then boosting the temp means that the denaturation losses are the important factor. The 'optimal' point is very roughly when the mash period is about 3X the half-life.. Every all-grain brewer already knows the truth of this. If you boost from 53C to 63C for a 45' mash you INCREASE the BA hydrolysis. If you boost from 63C to 73C you DECREASE the total action of BA. This is no contradiction, it's just a result of the complex rates interacting. Similarly if you are performing a 20' mashout vs no-mashout for BA with a 67C vs 77C halflife of 12' and 5' then you are considering total BA activity from BELOW the optimal temp versus above the optimal temp FOR A 20' REST. There are no easy guesses about which one produces more BA hydrolysis, but the difference is very likely to be small for reasons cited. Once you can accept that for a 60' rest 65C is an 'optima' for BA, and also that for a 20' rest 72C (a guess) is also a BA optima then the conclusions should be obvious. > Looking back at denaturing times it seems like the factor of > increasing denaturation is 1/4 or 1/3 ( at +10 F) [...] NO. It's very clear you don't get it. We are looking for the RATE and you can't infer the rate in the simplistic way you are attempting. >From another BRF study the BA denaturation FACTOR is 91% loss in a 1 hour mash at 65C, and 6 minutes for a comparable loss at 80C. That's 10X diff in halflife RATE over 15C or a 4.6X change in RATE per 10C. >If you were to mash in at 154 F for 1 hour >and not mash out; during the 30 or 40 minute lautering the >fermentability of the wort at the end of the mash step _will_ >change before you are done lautering. [...] Yes - I've been saying that all along . But you've forgotten to drop the other shoe - If you DO mashout then fermentability will change too (as in Tuborg). and the DIFFERENCE in the two cases is chipmunk nuts. >Mashing out _will_keep the fermentability closer to it's value at >situation you make adjustments for this drift when you decide, >"hmmm 154 wasn't hot enough, I wanted more maltiness. I'll kick >it up to 156 next time." That is exactly wrong. Bumping 154->156F for a 45' rest moves farther from the 45' BA optimal temp and so decreases total BA activity. That does NOT mean that a further increase to 170F doesn't actually get *closer* to the optimal temp for a 15' mashout period. The 'optimal' temp is very dependent on the time period. If you mash at 154F-156F for 45' then mashout vs no-mashout won't make much difference at all in fermentability. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 09:34:28 +1100 From: scott morgan <scott.morgan at aus.sun.com> Subject: re Coldie... Morning there, Well if you really want one let me know. CUB revolutionary brewing technique was probably being able to make beer with least amount of malt possible and still being able to call it beer. As well, brewing with no hops at all, using a lager yeast whilst still calling it a bitter and bottling some in plastic bottles (esp. good for when the natives get excited at football paddocks) has been a real evolution for beer! well let me know, i'll track down some in plastic and send off...its a scary thing. Scotty - -- ***************************************** Scott Morgan Sun-On-Line Telesales Representative Working as part of the National Education and Queensland Team scott.morgan at aus.sun.com freecall 1800 628 193 direct 02 9844 5396 mobile 0419 545 114 fax 02 9844 5189 ***************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 10:52:14 +1100 From: "Aussie Brewer" <ozbrew24 at hotmail.com> Subject: Aussie Beers Hi Guys, I am a relatively inexperienced brewer from downunder and would like to make some beers that are similar to the commercially avaialable ones here. If anyone knows of any recipies (preferably using kits/extract) for beers like: James Boag Premium, Carlton Crown Lager, Victoria Bitter, Cascade Premium, Coopers Sparkling Ale etc. It would be much appreciated. Cheers, Aussie Brewer Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 19:46:47 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Nitrogen freeze dried hops???? Mark L. Ellis writes .. >Hey has anyone know or played around with freeze drying hops with liquid >nitrogen. I can possibly see some advantages for extract brewers in that the >hops would shatter into dust before becoming solution when added into the >wort. Any opinions/comments.. Freeze drying doesn't require anything like liquid nitrogen temps. The point of freeze drying is to cool to just below water's freezing point and then decrease the atmospheric pressure which allows water to convert directly from solid ice to vapor without being liquid. Once all the ice is gone you can raise the temps and you have a dry extract. It *might* be a terrific way to dry hops, but I am concerned that the process might cause the aromatic volatile to evaporate too. Tossing hops in liq.N is probably just a way to make wet hops mush since the water won't be removed. The excessive cell disruption will probably increase alpha-acid utilization, but it is likely to increase phenolic & lipid extraction too. Try it w/ a banana sometime - they are not very tasty once the seed capsules are disrupted. Still it might work - try it and post a note. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2001 20:30:01 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: 1098 and diacetyl Has anyone had experience with Wyeast 1098 (British Ale) throwing off abnormal amounts of diacetyl at "regular" fermentation temps (65-68F)? How about 1338 (British III)? Return to table of contents
HTML-ized on 02/19/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96 |