HOMEBREW Digest #3584 Mon 19 March 2001

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  Is this a new style? ("elvira toews")
  Wyeast Cider Yeast (and other) experience ("Rod McBride")
  Batch Sparging (Home Brewer)
  Local Shop or Mail Order? (RBoland)
  Son of a Pitch (BShotola)
  yeast slurries ("Stephen Taylor")
  SS Tubing ("Houseman, David L")
  re: stainless steel tubing (Don Price)
  Nottingham, yeast pitching rates (Home Brewer)
  Headless beer fixing (Alexandre Carminati)
  RE: Secondary fermentation, molasses stout report, used keg warning ("CozyE")
  Fermentation Chiller Kits Offered! (Ken Schwartz)
  Re: Super V Chiller...No IFs about it! (William & Kazuko Macher)
  RE:igloo vs. gott tuns ("John Stegenga")
  decotion-remix / hitting temps / www.beers.cz (Hubert Hanghofer)
  idophor from feed store (EdgeAle)
  tastycrazy & dry hopping. (Andrew Schlotfeldt)
  GFCI's ("Fridgeguy")
  free whole hops (CMEBREW)
  Mashing Laaglander Light DME ("Steven Parfitt")
  encoding problems (Hubert Hanghofer)
  Teat Wash ("Tom & Dee McConnell")
  And So We Had A Party ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  local vs. mail/Hermione (Vachom)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 18:45:01 -0600 From: "elvira toews" <etoews1 at home.com> Subject: Is this a new style? OK, this may involve a touch of Renner envy given how his name is indelibly associated with CAP and the brewing tradition of his country, but I set myself the goal of formulating a beer from scratch with the goal of avoiding any existing style. I will call it "Winnipeg Lager" (r) (tm) (c) (etc.) and if I can get others imitating it I will loudly claim it as my own. The grains are crushed, and I'm brewing this weekend. The constraints are: no water treatment (not counting the sparge water), North American hops, and I have to like it (that should be the easy part). Our local water resembles 2 parts Munich to 1 part distilled. The blurb goes: "a moderate gravity lager, with lots of Cascade hop character, and a combination of German and English style maltiness". Numerically, I'm aiming at 10 SRM, 31 IBU. My target gravity is 1038, but the "commercial" version would be the usual 5% ABV. My question is: is this only a minor variation on an existing style, or can I claim it as my own? Sean Richens srichens at sprint.ca =================================== Recipe (all-grain, short sparge for 75% efficiency) 5 Canadian gallons (6 USG, 23 L) 7 lb Canadian 2-row 8 oz. Aromatic 4 oz. Biscuit 8 oz. Crystal 60L 1 oz. black Infusion mash 153F All hops Cascade pellets (4.8% alpha) 1 oz. FWH 1.5 oz. 45 minutes 0.5 oz. 15 minutes 1 oz. aroma Ferment with Wyeast Bavarian Lager Accelerated secondary (for a lager) Bottle prime to 2.4 volumes with DME Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 21:58:13 -0600 From: "Rod McBride" <alehusband at planetkc.com> Subject: Wyeast Cider Yeast (and other) experience I've just pitched the last of this year's cider and mead production. My house strain is off the market (YeastTek Pitch 5 Sweet Mead-anyone know an equivalent strain?) and I've been experimenting this year. I generally make a five gallon batch of cider, and once it's finished out, I use the lees as my slurry for a mead. A day before I rack the cider, I mix a 1:1 (1 gallon water and 12 lbs honey) combination of water and honey, hit it with 100ppm S02 (via 4 Campden tablets); after 24 hours I'm ready to top up with the remaining water (3 gallons), rack the cider to the secondary, dump the mead must straight onto the lees of the cider, oxygenate, agitate, add yeast energizer, oxygenate some more. I get active fermentation within two to four hours. I include all this because if you're going to make an unfortified (by added sugar) cider, and if you make your meads light and dry, you need a special yeast. The aforementioned Sweet Mead strain was awesome because it never stalled, was cold tolerant (I ferment in the 50-55 F range for primary), and always finished just off of dry, no matter the original gravity. 1.047 apple juice fermented out to 1.001 or 1.002, dry but allowing the apple to show. A 1.075-1.085 mead must would ferment to 1.001 or 1.002, dry but allowing the honey character to show. Both were sparkling in the keg three or four months later, so none of this nonsense of waiting for Congress to turn honest before the mead was mature. This year I tried the following strains: Wyeast Sweet Mead Wyeast Rhudisheimer Wyeast Cider Wyeast Chablis On all but the Chablis I made a straight cider first, adding only grape tannin, yeast nutrient, and pectic enzyme. The "Cider" yeast was by far the most dissappointing. It ripped the juice down to 0.996 leaving no character you could describe as apple. The tannin and what acid was in the juice was about the only thing to taste at all at racking. I'll be hitting this one with potassium sorbate and sweetening with a splash of raw juice when I keg it. The "Cider" yeast was then given to 12 lbs of raw orange blossom honey (which ain't cheap here in Kansas). It took a 1.082 must down to 0.996, and any orange blossom character is just gone. Basically, the "Cider" yeast behaved like a Champagne yeast, killing everything in its path including flavor and aroma. The Rhudisheimer made decent cider, though what it really did well with was the gooseberry melomel that followed. The Sweet Mead was good for cider (the best of the three straight ciders), but last I checked the mead was hanging at about 1.030, which is alarming given the size of culture I started with. The Chablis I'm not being as scientific with (and to be true to science, I shouldn't have fruited the mead off the Rhudisheimer batch-gooseberries are not exactly a neutral ingredient). The Chablis I made a two gallon starter (batch cider), and pitched while still active, a gallon into a mead must and a gallon into a New England cider which got 8 lbs of browns sugar and extra tannin in addition to the straight juice. We'll see. Anyway, I'll have to take up the experiment again next year, looking for the ultimate yeast to do cider and mead. It's getting too warm in my basement to make these things and not have them ferment like a house on fire and generate tons of higher alcohols. Time to make beer. Rod McBride "Peat, by the way, is found only in Celtic countries because God realized the Celts were the only people on earth who drank so much that they would try to burn mud."-P.J. O'Rourke Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 23:16:49 -0500 From: Home Brewer <howe at execulink.com> Subject: Batch Sparging Pete Czerpak asks about batch sparging, and whether water hotter than 170F can be used to sparge if it means hitting the "target" of 170F. I tend to brew "small" beers (Brown Ales, Bitters), and my practice has been to add boiling water to the mash tun before draining first runnings. This raises the temperature of the mash to about 170F, so that when the sparging water is added at or just above 170F, there is very little drop in temperature. I have overshot on occasion, and find that there are no detrimental effects to 180F. I've also been experimenting with rest times for the sparge - I've found that 20 minutes is more than enough, and I'm undecided about 10 minutes, but I'm inclined at this point to extend to 15 minutes. You've also noted that you have a low extraction rate, and claim that this somehow provides better flavour. I'd be interested in your theory behind this, at it seems on the surface that lower extraction = coarser crush = more tannins (as less inner surface area is exposed). I tend to use a finer crush (about 80% efficiency) and a thicker mash (about 1.25 qt/lb) and find my beers to be on the thin side if I use a coarser crush or more mash water, but I also brew ales exclusively so I'm looking for malt flavour and a decent head.... But back to the point...for batch sparging, the final temperature of the sparge is not all that important *as long as it is not too hot* (or too cool). I feel that most of the character of the resultant beer is achieved in the mash, and that the sparge provides additional sugar extraction, but less than say 10 - 15% of the final "maltiness" and body of the finished product - but as alluded to above, if this 10 - 15% is unconverted you can taste it in the final product. As a final note, I'm not a chemist, but I trust my palate - and the ultimate question is: what is it in your beer(s) that makes you think you may need a higher sparge temp? Tim Howe London, Ont Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 01:19:59 EST From: RBoland at aol.com Subject: Local Shop or Mail Order? Bill asks where we shop and why. I shop at my local homebrew stores for several reasons. Just like the local hardware store, these are small businesses with a commitment to and stake in the community, and I support my neighborhood stores. The freshness of their supplies is determined by the amount they can economically order and the rate at which it is sold; more sales make for fresher products. They are people to get to know, trust, and learn from. These businesses are always willing to support my homebrew club activities with competition prizes, materials, etc. They are the incubators for newcomers to the hobby at a time when national participation is down, and that means new members and new ideas in my club. They are down the street and open the day before I brew, or even during a brew, when I forgot that special ingredient. If we don't support our local stores with our business, the local homebrewing scene will suffer, and that's bad for all of us. Think Globally, but Buy Locally. Bob Boland St. Louis Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 03:11:24 EST From: BShotola at aol.com Subject: Son of a Pitch Well friends, it had to happen sooner or later. Just poured out five gallons of rubbery bilge formerly masquerading as wort. Having three unlabeled jars of slurry in the fridge, two recent and one old, I stupidly hit upon the old one as my pitch, and suffered for it. I do have five gallons of tasty stout as backup, but it's not my daily tipple and is on tap mostly to please others. I am a lager man myself, complete with foam mustache and resonant belch. Using unlabeled yeast jars is like playing Let's Make A Deal. Unfortunately, I chose door number three and got the goat. Kinda did smell like a stinky buck. Marc Sedams writes: "So even the infrequent brewers (those who are well below the 100 gal/year limit) out there should keep your yeast sludge for the next batch. As long as it's kept cold and your sanitization techniques are solid, you'll get better ferments and save a little dough to boot." Marc, three days ago I would have been in complete agreement with you. Two days ago I would have called it teatwash. Now I'm on the fencepost. I had alcohol-swabbed and flamed the openings of both the yeast jar and carboy upon transfer. I had sterilized the jar in the pressure cooker. My sanitation practices were good. However, this particular slurry WAS sludge- it had lots of hot and cold break in it, and had autolyzed, etc., from, I believe, having been six months in the cooler at various temperatures. I had gotten confident with a string of good clean brews from repitches and neglected to keep tabs on me yeast. I now believe yeast stored in trub has an expiration date and from now on will be a labeling fool. I am also going to search the archives and read about decanting, washing, etc. Like many of you, I am thrifty enough to want to reuse my yeast and fool enough to spend hundreds in pursuit of it. For instance, it was great to get a chest freezer for lagers last summer. Got it for fifty bucks and it holds ten cornies and regulator. For another fifty I put on a controller and I love to go in the garage and just look at it. All this for a down payment on a CC. (couldn't resist giving the ol' mare a kick) But I don't have a good system down yet. I have been trying to use the chest freezer for too many purposes: fermenting, yeast storage, and lagering cave. A buddy just gifted me with a little apartment fridge which is going to make things a tad more better. Popped another fifty bucks for another controller. Thanks Williams- Yadda Con Dios. I will use it to ramp down temps with each successive yeast step up, from test tube to gallon jug. I will be pitching strong and at the proper temps. Just have to figure out how to shorten the airlock as to fit the gallon jug inside the unit. So this narrows me down to lagering and fermenting in the same cooler. Not ideal, and I want ideal, dammit. I have an extra air conditioner laying around. Should I build a mini walk-in for my ferments?? Should I buy yet another controller? Anybody out there at this stage of the game? By the time I get all these devices and their controllers plugged in, electricity will be so expensive I will have to resort to digging a cave. For this, I will have to have a nice Spaten on hand. Bob Shotola Yamhill, Oregon Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 21:35:35 +1100 From: "Stephen Taylor" <stephentaylor at one.net.au> Subject: yeast slurries Hi All, My question is to Mark Sedam who says that he keeps yeast slurries up to 4 mths, now beg my pardon but i am still learning , but Marc by slurrie do you mean that you pour off the liquid & keep the semi liquid thicker solids on the bottom & store these in your fridge in & i quote, a sanitized ball jar, what is that i ask, yeast sludge you also call it so i guess that it is kept in a small container, (a ball jar) currently i am setting up to do yeast ranchng but slowly goes it, so this does look like a excellent alternative to run concurently with ranching, White Labs here cost 15 bucks now and it takes me just as long to earn that $15 as most of you guys on this site i suppose so it is pretty important to me as you can imagine. Steve Taylor, Newcastle, Australia. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 06:38:09 -0600 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: SS Tubing Lenghts of SS tubing in various diameters and lengths can be found at local automotive parts stores in the form of brake line tubing. Dave Houseman - ------------------------------------------------------------ Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2001 7:11:43 -0500 From: randya at qx.net Subject: Stainless Steel Tubing I was wanting to make a jockey box for my kegging setup. Does anyone know a good place to get stainless steel tubing. I could go the route of copper, but I would like to use stainless if I can find it for a reasonable price. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 08:12:54 -0500 From: Don Price <dprice1 at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: re: stainless steel tubing Try www.mcmaster.com. They have just about anything you need for building anything you can dream up. Also the catalog makes a great sofa leg. Don Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 09:52:03 -0500 From: Home Brewer <howe at execulink.com> Subject: Nottingham, yeast pitching rates Bob Sheck says: As a standard, I pitch at least FOUR, and then after re-hydrating with cooled wort from the boil: I can then make sure it's viable and has a clean scent to it, and my beer is usually bubbling away within 2 hours after pitch. - ----- You are one of many who has observed that one package of dry yeast is insufficient for fermenting 23L of wort, although you do hold the record (so far) for extravagance by using four! And I say extravagance simply because if I wasn't such a cheap bugger I would have thought of using more myself (and I talk about making a starter for dry yeast - sheesh! - sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees!) I do, however, still maintain that the pitching of a single package should show some signs of life well before 30 hours. Under-pitching leads to slower starts and longer ferments, but as one who has lots of experience in this area ;o) I can tell you that a single package pitching is usually bubbling away nicely within 24 hours, and usually within 12 - 18 hrs. Cheers, Tim Howe London, Ont I'm sure I'm not alone in assuming that one package was enough - Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 10:09:31 -0500 (EST) From: Alexandre Carminati <carminat at email.com> Subject: Headless beer fixing I have about 4 gallons of Extract Brown Ale, delicious, well carbonated and absolutely headless. Any sugestions on how to fix it ? Cheers ! Alexandre Carminati - ----------------------------------------------- FREE! The World's Best Email Address at email.com Reserve your name now at http://www.email.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:03:38 -0500 From: "CozyE" <cozye at bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: Secondary fermentation, molasses stout report, used keg warning Doug Hurst comments on secondary fermentation: >I'm not sure about this, but doesn't racking to a secondary help to rouse some of the more flocculent yeast strains? Wouldn't this help lead to better final attenuation? < This has been my experience as well. I have noticed that racking does help rouse the yeast and drop a couple points off the final gravity. I also like using a secondary to help clear the beer out a little more before I keg. A few weeks ago I had a post regarding others experience in using molasses in a stout. I have kegged this molasses stout (which I had used 1.5lbs of molasses) and it taste fabulous. I don't think you can really pick out a "molasses" flavor, but it is a very drinkable and smooth stout none the less. I think the molasses probably just added a bit to the final ABV in much the same way that using other sugars would have. I'll have to drink some more of it to see if I can detect any subtle notes of molasses : ) It does not have a harsh alcohol taste to it at all (approx 7% abv). used keg warning: I couple of months ago I kegged one of my favorite lighter beer recipes, my APA. The first keg was one of my original kegs that I have been using for a long time. The second, was a keg that I had recently purchased used with a group of fellow brewers from a source on ebay. The kegs came dirty, and I had used all of them but this last one. I replaced a few gaskets (not all of them) and used my usual iodophor rinse, shake, dispense, routine to clean the keg out. The first keg was great as usual and brilliantly clear after the chill haze dropped out in a week or so. The second keg has been in the cooler for well over a month, and has a nasty haze to it. Initial taste says to me that it is infected. Let the warning be to make sure you fully disassemble used kegs, clean and sanitize very well before you put them into production. That was a 5 gallon hard lesson for me to learn! Eric Murray Louisville, KY Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 09:22:29 -0700 From: Ken Schwartz <kenbob at elp.rr.com> Subject: Fermentation Chiller Kits Offered! Back in August I posted a request to the HBD for your input concerning providing Son of Fermentation Chiller kits. The response was overwhelmingly positive. I'm pleased to announce that the Fermentation Chiller Kit will be available by mid-April for $99.95 which includes shipping (within the US continental 48 states) and all applicable taxes. The Chiller has been redesigned to eliminate the need for the molding strips and weatherstripping by virtue of the precision-cut foam and inlaid-fit ("rabbet-cut") panel design, which also makes for easy and accurate assembly. The kit includes: Precision-cut panels made of 1.5 lb/cu-ft Type II high-density extruded polystyrene (EPS) foam High-strength self-sealing polyurethane adhesive 12 volt DC fan 12 volt DC power adapter Custom electronic thermostat (range 45F - 75F = 7C to 24C) with easy wiring Illustrated instructions Watch for our ad in the May/June issue of Zymurgy, or check my web page (see below) for more details and developments in the coming weeks. - -- ***** Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX Brewing Web Page: http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer E-mail: kenbob at elp.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 11:38:59 -0500 From: William & Kazuko Macher <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: Re: Super V Chiller...No IFs about it! Hi everyone, Just no shuttin' me up on this subject :-) "Michael G. Zentner" <zentner at laf.cioe.com> brings up a couple points related to my homebrewed Super V chiller... >There's nothing wrong >with using 1/16 inch clearance if you're getting the cooling >you want, but if that clearance is around a 1/2" tube, I >think what you have is imbalanced, whereas if that clearance >was around a 1/4" tube, you have better balance between cold >and hot volumes in contact. The price we pay for using what is available off the shelf! But, this relationship is not as bad as it first looks. That is because you can have much greater flow rate in the 1/16 inch space than you probably want to carry within the half-inch inner tube. And if you calculate the proportional volumes of the two sections, you find that it is just about a wash when you have three times the flow in the smaller [cooling-water] section. Bottom line is that with the much higher water pressure on the cooling water side, there is a surplus of cooling water available even though there is only a 1/16-space to push it through. Actually, the although it is not intuitively apparent, the cross sectional area of the 1/16 inch space between the two pieces of copper tubing is actually about 69% of the area of the 1/2 inch copper tube [0.196 sq. in. VS 0.135]. In my practical experience this means that things are pretty well in balance since the higher driving force of the cooling water pressure will permit higher volumes of cooling water to flow in that narrow 1/16 inch space. After thinking about this I now pretty much believe that 1/2 copper tubing as the wort carrier is more optimum than a smaller size would be. By the way, I did see 52 F as my exit wort temperature a couple days ago when opening my cooling water valve all the way as a test when chilling a batch. Not sure what the actual cooling water temperature was at that time, but it is winter here so it was at its coldest I think. >To the comment about laminar flow, I would guess with pretty >good certainty the the cooling liquid in my chiller is >laminar "by visual inspection of the outlet". I am not sure about the Super V [ Gee...almost sounds like it is a real product, or somethin'] but...because the 1/2-inch copper tubing will sag a bit over a 10 foot lenght, I suspect that although the average spacing between the tubes is 1/16-inch, in reality the inner tube is probably close to resting on the outer tube about midpoint, and that therefore there is a changing spacing along the length of each leg of the Super V, which likely encourages turbulent flow to occur. A positive if this is the case. >I'll probably take a hazing for the theoretical (which I did >do earlier in life) handwaving, or that ice cubes are not >fluids, but so be it. Well, the glass in your window panes is considered to be a fluid flowing at very slow rates by some, so who should throw stones... >In any case, this discussion has >inspired me to consider designing and building a shell and >tube that the common person can do without fancy tools. AND >I think if the Super V works... It DOES work, and very well. But probably no better than the coiled up type. But that was not the goal anyway. The main thing I wanted to share with everyone is the alternative to the coiled-up physical shape that we are so used to building. And the neat side benefit that this chiller, which at first thought seems crazy, is the fact that because it is so long and skinny, it can be hidden up in the floor joists or elsewhere, and for that reason becomes a very practical device. And pretty cheap to build too. >...the designer ought to hook it up this weekend, kick back, have a homebrew, And enjoy and enjoy my *promotion* from home builder to DESIGNER! Yea! >and not worry >too much about maximal efficiency (and be happy that his SO >hasn't killed him for having a 10' heat exchanger around the >place :-)). Actually, mine is 20-feet long [overkill naturally, used the build-once-and-be-done approach] but as I mentioned before, you cannot even find the thing without specifically looking for it, because it is mounted on the side of a floor joist in my basement brewery. A 10-foot physical length, with nominal 20-foot cooling length would be even easier to hide. Now if I could just convince SWMBO that the Laundromat is so much better than doing laundry at home and get that damn washer and dryer out of my brewery.... Bill Bill Macher Pittsburgh, PA USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:51:01 -0500 From: "John Stegenga" <john at stegenga.net> Subject: RE:igloo vs. gott tuns I know I'm way behind on my reading, but $39 for a 10gal round cooler just don't make sense. I've been using my 48qt rectangle Coleman coolers (mash and liquor tank) for almost 2 years now with no ill effects - and I paid about $28 for the both! Fitted them with a hard copper drilled manifold, and I can brew 15 gal of 1.045 beer (I get roughly 80% efficiency) with it, thanks to my 20GAL aluminum brew pot. John C. Stegenga, Jr., Woodstock, GA. Visit my website: http://www.stegenga.net Need to search the web? http://www.stegenga.net/searchpage.htm Want your own STEGENGA.NET website? Ask Me How! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 20:29:35 +0100 From: Hubert Hanghofer <hhanghof at netbeer.co.at> Subject: decotion-remix / hitting temps / www.beers.cz Hi all, Steve wrote in HBD#3583 regarding my post in HBD#3580: >?...I'm a little surprised that you can remix thin decoction into the hot >?thick with wild abandon... Maybe I need to do more English conversation to learn howto better express myself - but actually I ment it the other way: 1.) Initially conduct whole mash in the kettle. 2.) Transfer thin mash to lautertun. 3.) Decoct remainig thick kettle-mash. *AND FINALLY:* 4.) Add / remix this thick decoction into the thin lautertun-mash (hot into cold) ...with wild wild abandon ;-) Mixing cold into hot would definitely destroy more enzymes but even so - this method exists, too! It was part of the classical / original Pilsener triple decoction process: 1.) The decoction (any one or all three) is dimensioned bigger than would be needed to hit target temp. 2.) A remainder of the decoction is then kept in the kettle. 3.) The next decoction (which may again be bigger than needed) is then added to (and remixed with) this hot kettle-remainder. This does 2 things: 1.) Decrease overall enzyme content / activity because of the higher decoction rate. 2.) Decrease enzyme content / activity in the decocted part because of the "cold into hot" remix (read temp boost). This way not only attenuation, but also protein degradation can be limited by the brewer. Consider if a remainder of the first decoction (35-50C) is kept in the kettle, then protein degradation of the second decoction (50-65C) is limited, because the remix (...I really like that term...) with the hot kettle-remainder boosts temps. I don't know if the residual-mash-method is still alive, Narziss reports on it in one of his German books but gives no particular details. I've no experience with it either but now that I think of it ...would be an interesting challenge, maybe for one of my next Bohemian compositions... ************************** >?- I guess if I trusted my re-mix >?temps a little more I'd go for it. I "grew up" with decoction but I can understand the worries about it very well. Once you know the basic calculations and can answer the following 2 questions for your setup... 1.) What's the temp of the main mash just before I return the decoction? [OK - this one can get a bit involved for non-heatable mashtuns, because you need to know how long it will take to bring the decoction to a boil (read heat input) and how much the temp of the main mash drops during the time until you're ready to remix.] 2.) What's the approximate termal mass of my mash- / lautertun? ...you CANNOT FAIL! ************************* While I'm on Czech methods... there's a great new resource that looks promising: http://www.beers.cz It's still in Czech language only but translations into English are announced. There are infos about the Czech brewing industry as well as hops sections. The "Beer and Brewery" section lists all breweries with addresses, contact info and yearly production. So if you're planning a trip or want to buy a Czech brewery before they're sold out - this is the place to go. Cheers & Allzeit gut Sud! Hubert Hanghofer Salzburg, Austria "Bier brauen nach eigenem Geschmack" Infos unter www.netbeer.co.at Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 14:34:16 EST From: EdgeAle at cs.com Subject: idophor from feed store Tom Galley in a recent HBD said... >>Are you sure that the product you are using has no other ingredients? I looked into this several years ago and everything I looked at had other stuff in it (Lanolin, detergents, even aloe vera). If straight iodophor, I'm back at the feed store!<< Get thee hence! only look on the shelf next to the teat wash where they have the iodine disinfectant for the milking equipment (not the teats). It has no lanolin etc. I still have some of the gallon I bought at Farm & Fleet in Madison WI. It is Dineotex cleaner-disinfectant. Active Ingredient: Iodinen 1.75% Inert Ingredients: 98.25% Of course, Wisconsin is dairy country and this stuff may be harder to find in other areas. Dana Edgell Edge Ale Brewery, Oceanside CA http://ourworld.cs.com/EdgeAle Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 12:09:05 -0700 From: Andrew Schlotfeldt <sa50 at uswest.net> Subject: tastycrazy & dry hopping. Hey All, I am a lurker, slowly increasing my info through time brewing and regular reading of the hbd and others. Regarding ben A.'s question on dry hopping: One thing I found that worked was to siphon the beer between the hops and the trub, until the siphon end hits hops. Another good way to approach this, which you will probably get more beer out of, is to put your dry hops in a clean gauze bag that has been boiled for about 5-10 min, and then dangle it into the fermenter by the drawstring. The cork should still be able to fit in the mouth of the fermenter with just a little bit of the drawstring coming out of the mouth. Ideas for wild-assed brews: A brew-buddy of mine and I made Habanero- Chocolate-Peppermint ale. It was incredible, chocolatey-hot-spicy to start, with a refreshing cool mint finish. I recommend giving it a shot, using a small quantity of habanero peppers (1 1/2 to 2 small ones, boiled for about 5 minutes in a small gauze bag, then put into secondary ) and a little bit more peppermint than the normal amt, boiled into a tea and also added to secondary, and add about 6-8 oz of chocolate to the boil (don't forget to adjust your bitterness down a little, the chocolate will add some burnt-bitterness flavor). Another fun idea I vaguely remember is a Ginger Honey Ginseng ale. We did an IPA, but an American Pale would also be a good base. I don't recall if we added the ginger and ginseng to the secondary, or in the boil. It had a certain snap to it, and we didn't ever get sleepy while drinking it, great for drinking during those long decoctions that stretch into the wee hours. My memory is proving itself grandly today, as I don't remember quantities of almost all of the specialty additions in either of these brews. Since I have lost all data on this. Does anyone have recommendations on quantities to add (& when) for Ginger, Ginseng, or Sage? Does anyone have any good recommendations for an inexpensive way to lager beer in a small apartment, during the summer? I love our ales, but really want to start making some lagers. Prost! Ixnae of Blokhed Homebrewery Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 15:17:51 -0500 From: "Fridgeguy" <fridgeguy at voyager.net> Subject: GFCI's Greetings folks, In HBD #3583, A.J. deLange stated that a couple posters have recently given erroneous information about GFCI receptacles. I'll stand behind the accuracy of the GFCI information I posted in HBD #3581. I invite those who are interested to check the following URL's, and especially the description of GFCI receptacles in patents 3,813,579 and 4,034,266 on the delphion patent server site. http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm http://www-training.llnl.gov/wbt/hc/Electrical/GFCIworks.html http://www.electrical-contractor.net/ESF/GFCI_Fact_Sheet.htm http://www.delphion.com/ After seeing all of the flap on this list over the past couple of days about GFCI's, I have to wonder about the intentions of some of the posters. This is a forum about homebrewing, not GFCI theory and application. I tried to post information *relevant* to troubleshooting a fridge used for fermenting homebrew, and that's all. I didn't consider the inner workings, design details, code requirements, etc. to be *relevant* to the subject. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - Fridgeguy in Kalamazoo fridgeguy at voyager.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 18:53:20 EST From: CMEBREW at aol.com Subject: free whole hops I have about 3 lbs of Hallertauer Tradition (10 AA) cones that I received from Germany about a month ago. I wish to give the entire amount to one person. You pay the shipping. Charlie Preston in Mansfield, Ohio ***DO NOT RESPOND TO POST at HBD.ORG!!! RESPOND TO CMEBREW at aol.com!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 22:49:28 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Mashing Laaglander Light DME Well, I racked the IPA on the 14th, and I took a gravity reading tonight. Drum Roll..... the results are the SpGr is down to 1.013!!! That's 7 gravity points difference from the original batch in which the Laaglander Light DME was not mashed. Original Hypothesis - Laagalnder Light DME contains unconverted starches that result in high final gravity. These starches could be converted by diastatic enzimes. This high final gravity was seen with a batch of IPA which had a terminal gravity of 1.020 after two months. Test 1 - minimash of 1/4 cup laaglander light DME with a tablespoon of 2 row Malt. Results - Initial starch test showed positive. After mashing, the starch test showed negative. This test was run twice with the same results. Test 2 - The same recipe was followed for the orighinal IPA which had a high terminal gravity, with the exception that the Laagalnder Light DME was mashed with a pound of 2Row Malt. This resulted in a slight ly higher initial gravity, even though I reduiced the honey slightly to try to compensate for it. The same yeast was used and pitched at the same rate. In fact, the was yeast had been saved from the first batch (Wyeast 1028, 1 cup starter). This attenuation of the first batch was 67.7%. The second batch was up to 79.7% after eleven days. My conclusion from these experiments is that Laaglander Light DME, which is noted for having a high percentage of non-fermentable starchees, can have those starches converted to fermentable sugars by mashing. There may be other DME and liquid extracts which have the same characteristics. This would have to be determined by further experimentation. Steven, Ironhead Nano-Brewery, to be. Johnson City, TN http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=241124&a=1791925 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 07:36:39 +0100 From: Hubert Hanghofer <hhanghof at netbeer.co.at> Subject: encoding problems Sorry, my previous post may contain misplaced question marks or some other kind of placeholders. This is caused by a conflict with different character-sets and was not my intention. Hubert Hanghofer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2001 23:49:06 -0700 From: "Tom & Dee McConnell" <tdmc at bigfoot.com> Subject: Teat Wash on Thu, 15 Mar 2001, Joseph Marsh said that he used TeatWash. Double check your labels - it might contain lanolin. Not the best thing in the world for head retention. Could use the beer to wash you hands though.... Tom & Dee McConnell (tdmc at bigfoot.com) Albuquerque NM 87111 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 22:04:38 +1100 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: And So We Had A Party Well we had to, given that my little girl Phoebe has just turned five. The Southern Highlands of NSW is full of folk from all walks of life and most of them seem to have their children at Phoebe's school. So along they came, Doctors, Lawyers, Film Stars, Politicians,Musicians, TV Personalities and a whole host of just normal people like myself. Well I'm not sure if I can be called normal, but they all came anyway. Steve Alexander (being the egalitarian that he is) probably would have been bored fartless with this crowd but I hope he understands I had little choice in the selection. They were just the parents of Phoebe's class mates. We had plenty of wine, champagne and expensive commercial beer which we hoped would keep them happy. But as has happened in the past, they all wanted my homebrew. Demanded it in fact! Now when I told them the supply was getting a bit low they were not at all impressed. In fact I found them in the garage helping themselves as one of them had worked out how to use the beer gun. Now you might ask, "who needs arseholes like this at your daughter's birthday party?" and I am inclined to agree. But isn't it interesting. Even the Toffs have developed an insatiable desire for homebrew, as though it was the "top shelf" stuff of the beer world. I had to laugh, though I wasn't happy to see my kegs left nearly empty. I've saved my sample bottles, enough for me to enjoy with my real beer appreciating mates. The likes of Wes Smith, Dave Lamotte and even that Noise from the North, Graham Sanders. When the last of the fancy cars headed out, I was happy to shut the gates of Burradoo Estate and I couldn't help thinking. If they all love the beer so much, why don't they have a go at making it themselves? Maybe I'm going to have to teach them how. Cheers Phil So we stocked up with wine, champagne and cases of expensive commercial beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:59:04 -0600 From: Vachom <MVachow at newman.k12.la.us> Subject: local vs. mail/Hermione Bill asks about the differences between local and mail order shops. Of course, it all depends. If you're lucky enough to live close to a big retail operation like St. Pat's in Austin or Northern Brewer in MN, then there's no reason ever to have to order something that would arrive by post. I'm lucky in that my very small local supply shop is operated by an excellent brewer whose shop is focused largely on all grain brewing. The shop carries pretty much everything I need to brew all grain beers. I'd hate to imagine having to buy bulk grain by mail. You could probably beat the shipping costs on a 50 lb. bag of malt even if you had to drive 2 or 3 hours each way to get to a retail operation. Okay, Jeff. You got me on the Hermione reference. The Hermione of The Winter's Tale plays some nice tricks with time by being suspended in statue form for 15 or so years. But I couldn't find the "extra hours in a day" reference in either her lines or in Paulina's. My favorite character in that play is the bear--which sounds like beer, and the bear lives in Bohemia, and we all know what's good to drink in Bohemia: and thus I've connected the second part of this post to the digest topic. Mike New Orleans Return to table of contents
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