HOMEBREW Digest #3593 Thu 29 March 2001

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  Trub Removal using 1/2 barrel kettle ("Eric C. Martens")
  RE: Keg Lube ("Mike Pensinger")
  Re: Brewing Faux Pas (Rob B)
  Oh I'm Touched (craftbrewer)
  suck back (Jeremy Bergsman)
  re: keg lube ("Mark Tumarkin")
  keg lube/ keg parts ("Bridges, Scott")
  DMC Results are in!!! ("Formanek, Joe")
  RE: Brewing in the Hinterlands of North Carolina ("Jim Hagey")
  6 row malt vs 2 row (CMEBREW)
  Moving hops and Brewing at a Home with a Septic System (JDPils)
  Re: Soda Kegs (Mike Mckinney)
  Bottle Labels (Peter Torgrimson)
  secondary in keg ("Joseph Marsh")
  Re: don't do this - cracked carboys (Spencer W Thomas)
  Buckwheat Beer and Kegs (Charles.Burry)
  Re: Brewing Faux Pa & Apartment Brewing ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  safety and gas conversions ("Stuart Strand")
  more on mash pH and ATC (Brian Lundeen)
  Recap of Vacation beers.... ("Jeff Beinhaur")
  The $400 question (Danny Breidenbach)
  Trip to Europe ("Eric R. Theiner")
  CO2 delivery to multiple kegs (RiedelD)
  Re: CO2 delivery to multiple kegs (The Man From Plaid)
  RE" Flamethrowers (Bob Sheck)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:46:29 -0600 From: "Eric C. Martens" <ecmartens at students.wisc.edu> Subject: Trub Removal using 1/2 barrel kettle **Craig Agnor asked about methods of trub removal using converted 1/2 barrel kettles: Craig, I can offer some empirical observation, but, unfortunately, no solution to your problem (But, I hope somebody else has a good one!). I brew with a converted Sankey Keg fitted with a Sabco false bottom. I use a built in immersion coil to cool the hot wort. I always cool to below 20C before I transfer to the primaries and aerate, and I always suck out a lot of the cold-break material. My observation is that, even with a ton of whole hops in the kettle (most of which collects on the false bottom), a lot (perhaps the majority?) of precipitated trub still gets sucked through the false bottom and into my primaries. I have not dared to use anything except whole hops for fear of clogging my 3/8" copper drain tube, and to date have had no problem with outflow by gravity. My point is that the hop bed may not act as enough of a filter to eliminate a significant amount of the cold-break regardless of how you configure your setup (you only need one gap in the hop bed, and the bulk flow will find that path, carrying much of the precipitate through). I have been pondering building a "wide-gauge" hop back that can be sterilized by flowing a bit of hot wort through prior to chilling the entire batch. And then, after my batch is chilled, can act as an inline trub filter. I have no idea if this will allow enough flow to use gravity to drain the kettle. It would also be inappropriate for a brew that does not call for aroma hops (perhaps sterile cotton would work too?). The good news is that I have brewed five batches since I built my new kettle, I've left the cold break in the primary until I rack to the secondary and all of them have been just fine (a bit hazy maybe?). Eric Martens Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:25:59 -0600 From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr at bellatlantic.net> Subject: RE: Keg Lube I have been using a very light coat of petroleum jelly on my o rings. Seems to work well and doesn't affect the beer. Don't overdo it though :) Mike Pensinger Beermkr at bellatlantic.net http://members.bellatlantic.net/~beermkr/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:54:03 +1000 From: Rob B <rbyrnes at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Brewing Faux Pas This is what I have always done ... I though it would be more time-expedient when I first started brewing (about 6 months ago) to just number the brews and match the numbers to the descriptions in my little database (Brewlog). How do you label yours? Cheers, Rob At 15:16 28/03/2001 in Homebrew Digest #3592, you wrote: >I've started to label just the caps. Makes identifying them in the cases >very simple - especially if my batches are mixed up in the cases and >once the cap is popped, the label is gone. Life is good once again... > >Jamie on PEI ************************** Q: Will I be reincarnated? A: Not unless there is a special need to recreate you. And searching backup files is a major hassle, so if there is a request for you, God will just say that the tape has been lost. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:03:21 +1000 From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au Subject: Oh I'm Touched G'day All / Now I tried to tell you lot not to worry about me, but no typical yanks, I have to do it all over again. I sit here, in bliss, but no, e-mails flood in asking if i am well, and the HBD is a flutter about my demise. Oh people you dont think I would disappear that easily. Heck I'm reminded of the moral demise of you country every time i go to the outhouse. Yes Moral American For Beginners is still there stopping people falling into the abise (with the flys and all) and where more appropriate should my mind be pricked that yes, I am still needed for our wayward cousins. / Now these comments remind me Well I'm as sad as anyone with Graham's disappearance. I think there can only be 3 possible explanations. 1) SWMBO, to dreadful to even think of. 2) A salty, head hunting cod, or genital sucking frog. If one of these, at least it was fairly quick. 3) The "Keyboard of the South" has taken all the piss out of him. / So next time you tip one up, say a toast to Graham and tip one up in his honor!<<<<<< / Now what can one say - UP YOURS TOO MATE!!!!!!!! But yes it does remind me of what happened to SWMBO on the weekend. It being a hot weekend, creatures like this feel more at home in the water, lurking after unsuspecting prey. So off to the local pool she goes. Well mother nature takes hold with all that water so off the toilet she goes, not one wanting to give away her presence with a yellow stream. / Anyway i would say she has a big ... uh how do we say this expanse, but yes even the crabs even travel in groups incase they get lost covering the vast unknown, so it was that she let go one almighty scream that sent the pool staff running to her aid. Well as i said before, we grow em big up here, but there plastered to her bod was the biggest green and brown frog you will ever seen. Even the crabs though the world had ended. / Well I had to endure for hours when she got home, I had to get it off my ...... . And I did not need to see where it had been I can tell you. And what did the the pool guy say to all this. "Dont worry love, it happens all the time. / But you wonder why I'm not about as usual. With crap like this coming out of your fair land From: " Jim Bermingham" <bermingham at antennaproducts.com> Subject: I Can't Name My Dog Spot No More / Now I don't know if JackA$$ Brewery is an infringement on Jack A$$'s Brewery or not. Seems to me he is referring to his Buttock's Beer and I to the animal but who knows for sure in this sue happy world. / I'm asking two things please send me the names of your home brewery and how much money you have. If you have lots of money I am going to change my brewery's name to yours, register the name, then put a suit on your a$$ for all your money.<<<<<< / / Now Jim I'll sort the bugger out. Tell you what, you sell me your brewery name for 1 cent. I take the crackpot on Worts and All. When I finish with him, I'll throw the mungrel to the cod we have up here. Then you can buy back your name for a couple of thou. The way the Aussie dollar is plumiting thats sounds fair to me. / But why am I deafly silent. We we all know us Aus types have our web page (and wait for it) http://oz.craftbrewer.org. I told all you lot once I'll say it again. I'm helping get that off the ground. Give me another few months and I be back to correct all the misconceptions that are spread arround over there. Must admit haven't hear from me mate S for a while. Might give him a pull soon. / Shout Graham Sanders / oh Yes our frogs are all green up here, especially the genital grabbing types. So why do we have green and brown ones grabbing at the vast unknown. Well no thought really, is there. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:26:34 -0500 From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremy at bergsman.org> Subject: suck back Regarding airlock suckback during cooling conditions in the carboy, I have found that with the airlocks I have there is a level where the airlock provides its namesake function but the liquid will not be sucked into the carboy during cooling. Try filling it just enough to cover the holes in the floater and test it. Notes: Rapid sucking will still suck a little back. Drying out is a worry when you fill the airlock "just enough", but it's only for a short time, I haven't had a problem during a week long primary. You can go back once fermentation has begun and add a couple drops of water. Consider using water during the primary since nothing should grow in there over such a short time and this reduces the risk of drying out and minimizes the impact of suck back. - -- Jeremy Bergsman jeremy at bergsman.org http://www.bergsman.org/jeremy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:30:19 -0500 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: keg lube Jason asked about using keg lube on leaking o-rings, Stephen Ross replied with a very good post - I have one additional question - how do you apply the keg lube to the o-ring? By hand? Wouldn't this be a potential sanitation problem? thanks, Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:24:51 -0500 From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com> Subject: keg lube/ keg parts >Jason asked about Keg Lube. Those who are looking for keg lube and other kegging / serving parts can find a good selection at Superior Products. They are a commercial restaurant/bar supply biz, and have all kind of neat stuff. They will sell to individuals. I deal with the folks in Charlotte, but they have locations around the country. Also, you can try Rapids (1 location in Grand Rapids, Iowa I believe). They are a similar business specializing in bar stuff. Both of these companies also will ship. I don't have their numbers handy but I believe they are also both on the net. BTW, I have finally completed my 3 vessel (converted 15.5 gal kegs), 2 propane burner, 2 mag drive pump RIMS system. Now all need to do is find time to use it.... Scott Brewing in Columbia, SC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 08:02:05 -0600 From: "Formanek, Joe" <Jformanek at griffithlabs.com> Subject: DMC Results are in!!! Greetings!! The 2001 DMC was held last Saturday, 3/24 at Two Brothers' Brewing Company, in Warrenville, IL. We had a total of 504 entries - an amazing 83% increase over last year!! We are happy to announce the following notable winners: Nick and Nancy Edgington, of Lake Grove, NY, received Beer BOS with their Trapp's Dubbel. Sponsor of the Beer BOS prize is Glen Ellyn Brewing Company, of Glen Ellyn, IL, where Nick and Nancy will have the opportunity to assist in brewing a batch of their award winning beer! Bill Aimonetti, of Tijeras, NM, received the Mead/Cider BOS for his Varietal Traditional Mead. Michael Pelter, of Crown Point, IN, won the Menace of the Monastery category with his Belgian Strong Golden Ale. The complete results for the 2001 DMC are now posted on the UKG website at http://www.hbd.org/ukg. Cheers! Joe Formanek Organizer, 2001 DMC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:18:33 -0500 From: "Jim Hagey" <hagey at attglobal.net> Subject: RE: Brewing in the Hinterlands of North Carolina Collective! Many thanks and a tip of the brewer's cap to all of the members of MALT (Jay, Brian, Dave) and the other loose..errr... unaffiliated individuals who responded to my plea for help in getting my buddy started in homebrewing around Franklin, NC. I have forwarded your responses to him and suspect that he may be contacting some of you soon. He will be coming up here at the end of next week and I will give him all of my extra equipment to take back with him at that time. With the help of such good individuals as yourselves, I am certain that he will be turning out ales for all to enjoy soon. Thanks again, Jim Beer and Loafing in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:29:39 EST From: CMEBREW at aol.com Subject: 6 row malt vs 2 row Jeff Renner, If you're listening, can you tell us if you have yet brewed a CAP with 2 row malt and if so, how it compared to 6 row. I remember in hbd # 2657 you indicated you may try it. Charlie Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:18:50 EST From: JDPils at aol.com Subject: Moving hops and Brewing at a Home with a Septic System Greetings Beerlings, I need the help of the collective on issues related to moving. I am moving to a home which has a septic system. I currently use mostly bleech and some idophor as sanitizers. I have heard that PBW and Starsan can be dumped into the septic and know bleech is bad. PBW and Starsan are also very expensive relative to bleech. I suppose I could dump all my bleech water on the scrubs and grass, however I am looking for other suggestions. My second question is how to move my hops. I am moving the end of June. Do I let the hops grow until then? Do I put them in a pot? or should I try to get the new owner to let me come back in September to harvest and move the rhizomes? Thanks in Advance, Jim Dunlap Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 09:39:26 -0600 From: Mike Mckinney <mikemck at austin.rr.com> Subject: Re: Soda Kegs "Nachman, James" writes: >I have searched the web and have not been able to find a source for >reasonably priced 5 gal soda kegs. Does anyone have any suggestions. > >Jim >james.nachman at uscellular.com RCB has 5 gal soda kegs for $12 + shipping. You can find them at: www.rcbequip.com - -- mikemck at austin.rr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 07:45:14 -0800 From: Peter Torgrimson <petertorgrimson at prodigy.net> Subject: Bottle Labels A recent post asked about labels for bottles, apparently planning to use Avery labels. I don't know about Avery labels, but I suspect they might be hard to remove, particularly if they have been on the bottles a long time. Plus, they are expensive. I thought I would describe what I do. I print labels on plain paper on my printer and cut them apart into the individual labels. I glue them onto the bottles using milk for glue. Any milk will do - 4%, 2%, etc. I usually use non-fat milk. A very small bowl of milk glues a two case batch. I use a wet rag to wipe off the excess. The labels stick well, even with a minor amount of water exposure, after they have dried. They come right off when I empty and then wash the bottles. Plus they are CHEAP. If I am out of milk, I use a small amount of white glue diluted with water to make a weak mixture. My labels are black and white, printed on a laser printer. I don't know if this will work with ink-jet printer labels. Is the ink water-soluble? Peter Torgrimson Worts of Wisdom Homebrewers Mountain View, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:03:34 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: secondary in keg Charlie asks about using his corny keg as a secondary fermentor. It works OK & I do it fairly often. But then I leave the primary going for a month or so usually. I haven't had any complaints about autoasys (however you spell it). If you don't have pretty clear beer to start with you will get some mud in the bottom that you'll stir up if you shake the keg in force carbonating. Let it settle for awhile then use maybe 20 psi to flush a cup or so beer out then reduce to normal dispense pressure. That takes away the loose trub & settled yeast away from the pickup tube. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:19:43 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: don't do this - cracked carboys >>>>> "Jamie" == Jamie Smith <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> writes: >>> getting one of those spiffy stainless steel cylindroconical >>> (or whatever) fermenters >> Um, wouldn't this do the same thing during brewing what happens >> to beer after being canned? I am, of course, referring to the >> metalic taste of the drink. Granted, it may not be too >> prevelant, but its there... Jamie> Would it be any worse than kegging the beer in a Corny keg? Beer cans are not made of stainless steel. And, I think, they're usually lined with a thin layer of plastic, so the beer doesn't touch the metal anyway. And, in fact, if you do a blind tasting, where someone pours the beer from a can into a glass and the *same beer* (say, b*ttwiper) from a bottle into a glass, you won't (I assert) be able to tell the difference. If you drink straight from the can, so that your mouth touches the aluminum top of the can, then you might get a metallic taste. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 11:23:14 -0600 From: Charles.Burry at ercgroup.com Subject: Buckwheat Beer and Kegs Regarding Buckwheat beers, I brewed up a batch two years ago that used 2 lbs of Kasha, roasted buckwheat, from the local Wild Oats grocery store in a batch that was otherwise an amber ale with a S.G. of 1.054. I boiled up the buckwheat with 2 gallons of water and then simmered for 1 hour before adding the mix to my other grains for an additional 1 hour of mashing. The beer turned out very nice with the buckwheat noticeable but not overpowering. The brew took a third place in the local KC Bier Meisters' contest in the Specialty/Experimental category. Regarding kegs, I have purchased kegs a couple of times from RCB Equipment, http://www.rcbequip.com (standard disclaimer). Pricing is $12 each plus shipping. Four kegs cost me $72 in total, shipped to Kansas City. The kegs arrived clean (inside), pressurized, and in good shape. I have usually replaced the O rings with the softer ones discussed previously in this forum. Charlie Burry Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 12:35:12 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Re: Brewing Faux Pa & Apartment Brewing Jamie wrote of labeling: >I've started to label just the caps. Makes identifying them in the cases >very simple - especially if my batches are mixed up in the cases and >once the cap is popped, the label is gone. Life is good once again... It also makes label removal simple. Just pop the cap ;-) I was considering using circular labels about the dia of the cap. I think these can be purchased in 8.5" X 11" sheets to be printed on by an inkjet printer. The only problem exists in making a template to do the printing. Most applications use a rectangular printing frame. PITA to keep within the bounds... Anyone with a good solution? As for regular labels on the side of the bottle, I'll save these for the occasional "present brew". I don't care if the bottles return or not as they'll take extra time to remove the labels. The only people who get samples now are the ones who save bottles for me. Yeah, so I'm a bi+ch... Regarding the recent threads on apartment brewing and uncontrolled fermentation temps: I found a nice way to keep cool temps in your closet. A neighbor gave me two styrofoam boxes used to ship meat (about 1.5 cu. ft each) from his home delivery service. My glass carboys and fermenting buckets fit inside perfectly when the tops are removed and the bottoms are used to make a single, tall container. Since you've got a round object in a square container, there's a enough room in the 4 corners to stick some "blue ice" packs. 4 little ones or 2 large ones will keep your brew at about 60F or slightly lower all day long. Switch out the melted packs with fresh ones from the freezer at the end of the day and keep recycling the packs. The system works well, is simple and I still use it for making my sake since the sake temp is between that of my lager fridge and ambient RT. You may not be able to get these neat little boxes, but you could easily make your own box out of a cardboard box and some styrofoam insulation. The temperature inside the box fluctuates a bit, but the lag in response to these changes within the fermenter may smooth out the fluctuations a bit. The ice packs are nice because they're reusable. Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "I have made this letter longer than usual, because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 10:19:56 -0800 From: "Stuart Strand" <sstrand at u.washington.edu> Subject: safety and gas conversions Hi -- I am setting up my HERMS brewery in my new house, finally, after 3 years off. It's in the basement and I want to use natural gas, but safely! I've located the brewery next to a large window and there is an exhaust hood over the kettles (kitchen type). I also have methane and carbon monoxide detectors in the room. Finally, and most important I want to have a safety valve on each burner. As I understand it, this is a valve with a thermocouple that senses whether the flame is lit and turns the gas supply off if the flame is out. These valves are on all gas ovens. I intend to scavenge a couple off used gas ranges. Any comments? Advice? Cries of alarm? Also, I used to use propane, but now I need to convert the burners to nat gas. I've been told to just drill out the orifices to 3/32 inch. Does this sound correct? Stuart sstrand at u.washington.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 13:43:58 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: more on mash pH and ATC Marc Sedam (based on other correspondences this seems to be a fairly popular view) wrote: **If your temp controlled pH meter reads 5.2 in the mash, then it's compensating for the temperature of the mash and giving you the equivalent reading at room temp. A.J. then wrote: > The differences between mash and lab > temperature depend on several factors but tend to be 0.2 pH > or less (in > my experience). When you use an ATC meter to measure at mash > temperature > it reports the pH at mash temperature and that pH is lower > than what the > pH would be at room temperaure because the acids give up > their hydrogen > ions more freely at higher temperature. The meter's > compensation circuit > does not adjust for this effect. Rather it corrects for the fact that > the meter electode responds differently to a given level of > pH according > to the temperature of the sample. So, we have two opposite viewpoints on this question, which leaves me with one of two options: a) Ignore the discrepancy and/or explain it away with pseudo-scientific rationalizations. However, not being a Baptist, I prefer option... b) Look for additional information to determine which is the correct interpretation of ATC in pH meters. With some luck, I found the web site for Oakton Instruments, the manufacturer of my pH meter. Not so easy when the obvious site has been snapped up by a kitchen appliance dealer, and the instrument company is left with the less obvious www.4oakton.com In their FAQ section, they write the following: Temperature Compensation for pH Instruments Although it is widely advertised, the need for temperature compensated pH measurements is not always explained except in technical books and articles. This Tech-Tip will give a brief explanation of the major characteristics of temperature compensation in pH instruments. 1. The Solution Temperature Effect When temperature changes, the actual pH of the solution being measured can change. This change is not an error caused by the change in temperature. It is the true pH of the solution at the new temperature. Since this is not an error, there is no need to correct or compensate for this temperature effect. 2. The pH Electrode Temperature Effect There is only one major temperature effect in pH measurement that can cause errors in readings. This is the change in the electrode's response (or sensitivity) to pH that results from change in temperature. It is the only reasonably predictable error due to changes in temperature, and is the only temperature related factor that pH instruments with temperature compensation can correct. This temperature error is very close to 0.003 pH/deg C/pH unit away from pH 7. The errors from changes in electrode sensitivity due to changes in temperature are the only errors that can be corrected by meters with temperature compensation. In both cases a correction factor based on 0.003 pH/deg C/pH unit away from pH 7 is applied to the final reading you see on your meter. (end quote) In short, ATC in a pH meter does NOT correct for the actual change in pH resulting from temperature, rather it corrects for the electrode sensitivity. Whether this change in pH of the mash is 0.2, as AJ suggests, or 0.35 as other sources have stated, is moot, if we accept the notion that the recommended range of 5.2-5.5 is at room temp, and should be measured there accordingly (if only to enhance electrode life). It would have been helpful to know whether the ATC correction raises or lowers the displayed reading, which I calculate could be almost as much as the actual pH change given the difference between room and mash temps, and neutral and mash pH levels. IOW, if you were measuring hot mash with an uncompensated pH meter, would the two factors cancel each other or give you a reading on the order of 0.5 pH from where you thought you wanted to be? Did any of what I just wrote make sense? Maybe I should just follow a simple flowchart. make beer -> Beer taste good? -> Yes, drink beer. -> No, make 'nother beer. Cheers, Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:14:09 -0500 From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur at email.msn.com> Subject: Recap of Vacation beers.... First, thanks again to all who made suggestions of places to stop while on vacation in the Adirondacks and Vermont. Unfortunately I did not get to as many places as I had hoped to but did try a number of different beers. For what its worth here is my brief review. C. H. Evans in Albany - A MUST stop for anyone in that area. It's easy to get too and what a great building. Every beer was a great one but the appropriately named Kick Ass Brown Ale was by far the best. George please send some of this to PA. We also had dinner there and the food was top notch. My only complaint was that the only beer you could get to go was in growlers. That would have been fine except they wanted a $13 deposit on the bottle for a total of $21 for a growler. Now George, your beer is great but do something about that growler cost. Lake Placid Pub and Brewery - I only had time to make a quick stop and had the Pale Ale. IMHO, it was a great APA and I did get a growler of it for I think $9. (are you listening C.H. Evans) A nice smooth beer with a great hop aroma. Vermont Pub and Brewery - Tried the IPA, which was almost too bitter but I still enjoyed it. The next was a Bitter which I thought was a good but not great tasting ESB and I ended up getting a growler of it for (hey George are you listening) $9. But the best by far IMHO was the Wee Heavy. I could have sipped on that rich heavy ale all day but I think my day would have been very short as the high level of alcohol was present. As for the food, it was OK but when I looked at all of the other restaurants within walking distance I think next time I'll skip the food. As for the rest of the trip I wasn't able to stop by any other breweries but did pass by Trout River brewery in Lyndonville, VT. You got a love a brewery that has a drive up take out window. I did however sample a number of different beers. Trout River's Rainbow Red was a very refreshing beer after a fun day on the slopes. I think my favorite became Otter Creek's Copper Ale. A very pleasent brew with the right balance of hop and malt flavors and aromas. Some of the Long Trail beers were good but not outstanding. Wasn't crazy about the Magic Hat but then again I'm not usually into weird flavored beers which they seemed to produce alot of. Catamount put out a nice Pale Ale and I tried a few others that were OK at best and since they didn't really stick in my memory I guess they at least got me fuzzy. Speaking of fuzzy, I had to keep looking at the calendar to remember that it was late March. The skiing was as if it was mid winter. Our last day of skiing had us in Stratton with 6 to 8 inches of powder. But alas I'm back in south central PA with no snow and the skis are away for the season. Well I guess that means it's time to get brewing again. Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:09:38 -0500 From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> Subject: The $400 question Last week Steve A. asked: "So for $400 how could you best improve YOUR HB quality?" I'd see if $400 would cover the cost of getting my basement organized, cleaned, and all the junk put on shelves, thereby giving me the space to brew and removing the #1 reason I haven't gotten around to it in my new house! - --Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 16:34:51 -0500 From: "Eric R. Theiner" <logic at skantech.com> Subject: Trip to Europe I know this has been covered, but I have a new wrinkle to add. My wife and 21 month old son will be accompanying me to a reunion in the Fatherland (Germany). We are planning on spending 5 days in the homestead (Volbach in Bavaria), but then will have 8 days on our own. I have a burning desire to get to both Prague and Plzen while in the neighborhood, and on the other end, to get by Vienna. My wrinkle is that my wife is not a fan of beer. If I take her to brewery after beer hall after putsh (little humor), she's gonna divorce me. How can I work in some other activities so that we can take a brew route which is also culturally appealing to her. Oh yeah, and my son, who will probably be in a bit of a hellian phase. Thanks for any help at all, Rick Theiner Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 17:38:41 -0500 From: RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca Subject: CO2 delivery to multiple kegs Just wondering what people do to run CO2 to more than one keg from a single cylinder. I have T-fittings and enough gas-in fittings, but I suspect I'll run into problems with kegs equalizing between each other if there are pressure differences. Do most people simply use check-valves (1 per gas-in fitting)? How do you get these in line? Aren't they female threaded w/o a hose barb end? cheers, Dave Victoria, Can. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 22:41:05 -0500 (EST) From: The Man From Plaid <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Re: CO2 delivery to multiple kegs Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca writes of CO2 delivery to multiple kegs... > Just wondering what people do to run CO2 to more than one keg from a > single cylinder. I have T-fittings and enough gas-in fittings, but I suspect > I'll run into problems with kegs equalizing between each other if there are > pressure differences. > > Do most people simply use check-valves (1 per gas-in fitting)? How do > you get these in line? Aren't they female threaded w/o a hose barb end? A "Y" at the regulator is a good thing, but generally only delivers gas to two devices, unless you want a series of them. Such a beast makes it easier to snap the puppy right off hte regulator. The best way is to use one of the block regulators available from most home brew shops. And, yes, after having experiencing a system without check valves, I HEARTILY recommend check valves. As you suspect, the crossing of CO2 from keg to keg (they tend to "make up" for each other before the regulator fills in - there is no "trigger threshold" on the kegs. There is on the regulator.) resulted in some strange flavors across the beers. The worst was when I had an Orval clone on with a pale ale, a Christmas ale and a brown. They all got Brett. Some were pretty good with it - but a lesson well learned. Check valves can be purchased to fit the "Y" on a regulator, the regulator itself and the ports on a block manifold. William's, for one, stocks them. I wouldn't doubt that St. Pat's and others do as well. Inlines are available, too, most commonly in nylon or PVC. I don't know why anyone would bother when the valves and manuifolds can be had, making the system less complex. - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 23:28:56 -0500 From: Bob Sheck <bsheck at skantech.net> Subject: RE" Flamethrowers Rob Compton wrote about using the McDonnel-Douglas F5 Phantom engine exhaust to fire up his brew pot. Are you related to the guy who uses LOX to light off his charcoal Barb-B-Q grill? see at: http://ghg.ecn.purdue.edu/~ghg/ Bob Sheck / DEA Greenville, NC Return to table of contents
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