HOMEBREW Digest #3651 Tue 05 June 2001

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  Kunze et al... (Pat Babcock)
  Books, Books, Books ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Bit Of A Nasty Doctor ("Max McDonohue")
  RE: Converting All-Grain Stout to Extract ("Peter Fantasia")
  Re: Ice for Chilling ("Pete Calinski")
  Small Brewers Festival Of California Amateur Brewers Competition (Peter Torgrimson)
  RE: Freezers & Insulation ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  Cheap DIY SS conicals (I/T)" <stjones at eastman.com>
  NHC 2001 Call For Judges ("Gary Glass")
  Oxygenation Methods (Troy Hager)
  Re: Aussie Beer glasses ("Bret Morrow")
  Bar Buildin's (Brad Miller)
  kegging system options & carboys ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Strawberry Wheat ("Jeff Beinhaur")
  Re: 101 Glass Carboy Questions (Brian Myers)
  Cold Wort O2 methods (Phil Wilcox)
  chillers ("Greg Hunter")
  Re. 101 Glass Carboy Questions ("Jeffry D Luck")
  Re: Aussie beer glasses (Barney Wrightson)
  benzene avoidance ("elvira toews")

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 17:24:01 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Kunze et al... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Folks, someone appears to be having a spot of fun at Steve's expense, but I *MUST* point out that it is also at the expense of whomever actually owns the spoofed address. It is fairly clear that the original "kunze" post was spoofed, and those following have been intercepted. This solves the immediate problem. However, in this case, the "spoofed" address appears to actually exists as the Automagical Responses sent to the "from" address have not bounced back to our server. Keep this in mind when playing such "games". First, though you may find it humorous, it can be a nuisance to the Janitors. Second, if the address you are "faking" exists, it is most assuredly a nuisance to the actual address holder as they will receive not only the server responses, but the misdirected mail of those who do not see the "joke" and respond in private to your post. Please have a little consideration, at least for the latter individual - who is COMPLETELY innocent of your game - if not for all involved. Thank you. - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 05:05:29 -0400 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: Books, Books, Books Picking up on the book thread... The other hobby SWMBO despairs of in our home is my book collecting <"obsessing", she says in the background>. We have a spare room fitted out as a library/needlework room (ah, compromise!), and I have shelves devoted to beer and brewing literature, mostly in English. The most helpful book I have, the one that actually stays in the kitchen the most, is "Homebrewing for Dummies" by Nachel. This is an excellent resource and is very readable and enjoyable, like so many of the Dummies books. If you have just one book, this is the one, IMVHO. I also like Seven Barrel Brewery's book, and I really like Randy Mosher's absolutely beautiful book "The Brewer's Companion", although it's kinda technical. John Palmer has a "shareware" book online at www.howtobrew.com that is really pretty good. I have yet to sit down and print it all out, but when I do, I'll send him my 5 bucks gladly. It's really well-thought out and concise. "Brew Ware" by Lutzen and Stevens is a must have whether you're a gadgeteer or not. After I got "Brew Ware" and implemented some of the projects, a brewing day became 100% more fun. I also like Dave Miller's books, esp. "Brewing the World's Great Beers" which was my first brewing book. SWMBO still regrets the consequences of this particular birthday present... And last but certainly not least, Mr. Papazian's books are on my shelf, and are excellent resources, even if his technique differs a little from what I've learned on my own. This is by no means a complete list, but these are the books that get pulled off the shelves and get wort stains on them the most. I also subscribe to Brew Your Own magazine currently and find that I look forward to its arrival each month or so. There are always lots of enjoyable articles, recipes and such. <No affiliation, yada, yada> Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 21:48:06 +1000 From: "Max McDonohue" <max at hinet.net.au> Subject: Bit Of A Nasty Doctor Hello Everyone Well i continue to read about all this talk on geometry and what have you. I was very interested in this when I heard you could make different beers by changing the shape of your fermenter. In my case that would require a fair effort given that i use an outside bath to brew in. But it could be bashed into a different shape if someone could tell me what shape to make it. I got an email from this Doctor Pivo suggesting that perhaps it was my head that needed bashing rather than the bath. All this just because I showed an interest in wanting to make a Tooheys. Clearly this Doctor Pivo is no Tooheys man and i suspect he only likes the top shelf stuff like Crown Lager. Oh to be able to only drink the expensive beers! I guess that is why you become a Doctor. At least Doctor Alexander gave me some encouraging advice, he didn't suggest I needed my head bashed in! Now I read about these Blind Taste Tests. Whats new about a Blind Taste Test? Out here where I live the lads and I often have Blind taste tests. The object is to see how much beer you can taste before you end up blind. We usually have a blinder of a night! Anyway this is all very interesting to me, but i would still like to know what shape do I make the bath in order to reproduce something as good as a Tooheys. Maybe later I could try to make a Crown Lager. Don't give up on me Doctor Pivo, having a title doesn't make you appreciate good beer more than us normal blokes. Max McDonohue Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 08:53:44 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Converting All-Grain Stout to Extract >On May 21 Nils A. Hedglin asked about converting >an >all-grain stout recipe to an extract recipe A good rule of thumb is that a lb. of grain is eqivalent to .82 lb. of extract. This is assuming that the brewer had a fairly high extract efficiency. I plug would plug my recipe into the beer recipator or the recipe calculator at beertools.com to check Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:43:22 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: Ice for Chilling Ken Schwartz commented: > Pete Calinski says he used sanitized Tupperware containers filled with > sanitized water & frozen, and chipped out the ice for chilling. > > Seems that if you let the container sit out a little while (or immersed > partway in warm ater), the ice adjacent to the container surface would > melt enough to let the whole block come out. I understand your point > about surface area but it seems if you could just lift the whole block > out and gently place into the hot wort, it would be a whole lot less > trouble. I used to take the blocks out of the freezer around the time I started the boil. They would be loose by the time they are needed. I still used the ice pick because the difference in time that it takes to cool is really significant. Maybe like a factor of 5 or so. The small chips just disappear while the large chunk takes a lot of stirring which increases the risk of HSA and contamination. If you put half the block in whole and the other half in as chips, the chips are gone long before the block. Using a whole block is sort of like watching paint dry or grass grow. Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 08:55:25 -0700 From: Peter Torgrimson <petertorgrimson at prodigy.net> Subject: Small Brewers Festival Of California Amateur Brewers Competition The Small Brewers Festival of California is an annual charity fundraising event held in Mountain View, CA each August. The festival features 40+ craft breweries serving more than 150 of their beers. See http://www.smallbrewersfest.com for more information about the festival. The festival also includes a homebrewing competition. The entry dates are July 7 - July 21. The judging will be on August 4 at the Tied House Cafe and Brewery in Mountain View. The festival will be on August 11 - 12. The Best-Of-Show (BOS) judging will be on August 11, at the festival. All judging results will be available immediately following the BOS judging. See the details of the competition at our club website, http://www.wortsofwisdom.org. A notable feature of this competition is the BOS winner brews 20 barrels of his winning recipe at the Tied House Brewery. This BOS beer will be served at the 2002 Small Brewers Festival. At this year's festival we will be serving last year's BOS winner, a Bavarian Weizen. This is an invitation to enter your beer in this BJCP-registered competition. We also need judges for this event. Although BJCP-accredited judges will have priority for judging assignments, novice judges are welcome and will be teamed with experienced judges. Stewards also are needed. Peter Torgrimson Worts Of Wisdom Homebrewers Mountain View, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:06:53 -0700 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: RE: Freezers & Insulation - -----Original Message----- From: Hedglin, Nils A Sent: Monday, June 04, 2001 9:03 AM To: 'post@ hdb.org' Subject: Freezers & Insulation Hi, I'm working in getting a freezer for my wort fermentation. Unfortunately, the 2 I've found have the freezing coils built into the shelves. Since the shelves are only about 1-2' apart, even the smallest carboy won't fit. Does anyone know of a safe way to move these shelves out of the way without cracking the coils, or is this standard on all upright freezers? Once I get a freezer/fridge, I'd like to find something that's more thermally stable to take up the empty space so it doesn't have to continually cool the air. Would some sort of insulation sheets/boards work? Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 12:29:33 -0400 From: "Jones, Steve (I/T)" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: Cheap DIY SS conicals Greetings all, Just wanted to pass along what may be some valuable information. Saw a note the other day on the HBD Forums about a source for DIY SS Conicals. Check out http://toledometalspinning.com. A 12.2 gallon one piece 'hopper' goes for $87, and a corresponding flat lid goes for $44. Weld on a nipple and add a ball valve (or butterfly valve), fabricate a stand, and you have yourself a real nice conical. If so desired, you could probably fashion some sort of side port for sampling from 3/8" SS tubing, compression fittings, and a valve. Steve Jones Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 11:15:53 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: NHC 2001 Call For Judges Hi All, The following is a message from Ron Cooper, Judge Coordinator for the Second Round of the AHA National Homebrew Competition. You can respond directly to Ron at roncooper at earthlink.net. If you are interested in judging, please let Ron know. This is a unique opportunity to judge some of the finest homebrew available anywhere. Cheers! Gary Gary Glass, Membership Coordinator American Homebrewers Association 1-888-U-CAN-BREW Voice: (303) 447-0816 x 121 Fax: (303) 447-2825 Email: gary at aob.org Web: http://www.beertown.org URGENT CALL FOR JUDGES AND STEWARDS - AHA NATIONAL COMPETITION FINALS - JUNE 21 & 22, 2001 Hi, judges and beer enthusiasts. We're only three weeks from the finals and still need judges and stewards. If you can help us, please reply to me and I'll make sure you're registered in the right place(s). The competition is to be held in the Sheraton Four Points hotel, 9750 Airport Blvd., near LAX. Being the finals, ALL the beers won a First, Second or Third Prize at one of the 7 Regional First Rounds. Expect to find the most outstanding home-brews you've ever tasted. The schedule is: Session #1 - Thursday 1:30 - 5:30, Session #2 - Friday 8:30 - 11:30, BOS - Friday PM, after lunch. You do NOT have to be registered at the conference to judge. Neither do you have to be a BJCP qualified judge (some of us judged for years before taking the training class). If you don't feel like judging, then sign up as a steward - that's probably the best job at the show - all those free, top quality beers! Breakfast is provided on Friday, I'm not sure about other meals - still TBD. Please fill in the questions below: It'll help us assign judges to their favorite styles. I know the First Round winners, so just include the styles you don't want to judge in the "don't want" question. Comments and questions are welcome. I'll get back to you before the competition to let you know which style you'll be judging. Style guidelines, rules and forms are all available on the AHA Site http://beertown.org/AHA/NHC/2001/ If you know others who'd like to judge or steward, please have them contact me; Use the address above, (310) 546-1524 or mail to: Ron Cooper 1208 - 23rd Street Manhattan Beach, CA 90266 QUESTIONS (Mainly for Judges, Stewards as appropriate) Name: Judging experience / BJCP certification rank / BJCP Reg. #: Can you judge June 21st PM or 22nd AM or both? Are you interested in judging Best of Show? (22nd PM) Styles you'd like to judge: Styles you don't want to judge: Day Phone: Night Phone: Street Address, City, State and Zip: Thank you for helping us out at the AHA Finals. It's going to be a blast! Ron Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 10:01:29 -0700 From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us> Subject: Oxygenation Methods Dan Diana writes: "Has anyone else had similar experiences or use the constant flow method and seen such good results?" I too use O2 to oxygenate my chilled wort. My procedure used to be with a stainless difussion stone as well. I attached it to an old piece of racking cane and some tubing to create a kind of aeration wand and after wort was pumped to fermenter, I carefully take the stone out of the sanitizer, place it on the wand, open the fermenter top (BBMB CC) and give it a couple blasts with the O2. The procedure always bothered me somewhat - first of all I had to grab the stone and place it on the wand careful not to touch anything with it and I am sure my hands are not perfectly sanitized. As well as opening up the fermentor and shoving the wand down in the wort to do its thing. These worries are probably not things to loose sleep over but, needless to say I wanted a better way. In my perusal of HB sites I ran across Marty Tippin's ideas about an in line aerator http://hbd.org/users/mtippin/aerator.html and after giving it some thought, I made one out of a brass tee, three brass barbs, a compression fitting, a piece of copper tubing and an easy masher screen. The idea was that the O2 would come in one end of the tee get difused by going through a short piece of copper tubing with a bunch of small holes drilled in it with the end crimped and the EM screen over it - it is the same design as Marty's but instead of an airstone, I used the short copper tubing with holes and screen as the defuser. I was anxious to try it on my last brew. So I soaked it in some PBW, rinsed and then boiled it. I then hooked it in line from my pump to the fermenter. Before I started the pump I put a tiny bit of pressure from the O2 so that I would not pump wort up into my air filter. I then turned the pump on. I adjusted my O2 up a tiny bit and it was a beautiful thing. Lots of tiny bubbles running to the fermenter which soon had a big froth of oxygenated wort sitting inside it. The cool thing is that you just need a trickle of air from the tank to do the trick and it is totally adustable. The even cooler thing is that pumping to the fermenter and oxygenating now are done in *one* step and I don't have to be so careful about carrying the O2 wand around because everything happens inside tubing and the aerator. Also, I don't have to open up the fermentor to muck around with the wand to aerate. Well my beer took off like a rocket, I had lag time of about 2-3 hours and it was done fermenting in less that 3 days (light ale with W1056). It is currently conditioning but when I bottled it tasted delicious!!! Hope this helps. Troy Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 17:24:22 From: "Bret Morrow" <bretmorrow at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Aussie Beer glasses Greetings, Matt was talking about about Australian beer "sizes", including a Darwin stubbie (2 L). Lets see, 1 L equals 2.2 miles--God, that's a lot of beer! Is it call a Darwin stubbie because after a few of them you try to pass your genes on to anything in the room? Including the Shetland pony? Wondering aloud in Hamden, CT Bret Morrow Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 10:37:01 -0700 From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com> Subject: Bar Buildin's Well all of this talk about building a bar is right in time for me. I just scored a 6' chest freezer for free ferdy free! I've been thinking about putting taps on the top but the only problem would be when you have to open the thing up. What I want to do is cover the thing in wood a push it up against the wall so it will be like a real bar. What I'm wondering is are there any other solutions out there? I saw the take the lid off and raise it up and put taps on the side web sight. I was thinking about building an Irish coffin that could have a hinge on it so it could tilt forward so when I open the lid it would give me a little more room and not have to have the taps in the front. One question I have is how much will the beer warm up if the lines are out of the freezer? Will it hurt the beer or shorten the life of the keg? Any comments would help. I really want to do this up right. Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 14:56:40 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: kegging system options & carboys Walter H. Lewis III wrote: >Now in my new house I have a REAL bar. Wouldn't it be wonderful to build >the bar AROUND a chest freezer and put a tower on top! now that would be >sweet! Walt, I have a chest freezer, a tower and a desire to build a bar. However, I keep coming across the logistical problem of putting the chest freezer underneath the bar while keeping easy access to the freezer contents and my top-mounted tower. My current thoughts are to A: make the top of the freezer, the top of the bar. This way when you open the freezer, the top of the whole bar moves. This has the added benefit of providing a solid foundation for the tower and the tower may be cooled easily be the freezer. - OR - B: Put the freezer on wheels and slide it underneath the bar top when you need to access it. I think I'll be going with option A. Todd Bissell had 101 Glass Carboy Questions: >1) What sizes are usually available...? Which size is recommended for >standard" (no barley wine/imperial stouts, yet!) 5-gallon batches...? Is >bigger really better? What about the airlock -- would a blow-off setup be >more appropriate for some or most of the fermentation cycle...? Bigger is better *IF* you're doing 5 gallon ferments. With a 5 gallon carboy, you'll have very little room for the krausen which builds up during your ferment, if you use it for a primary fementer. You'll either have to go with the 6.5 gallon carboy to allow room for the foam to rise and crash -OR- you'll need a 1" dia blowoff tube shoved into the neck of the carboy with the other end sitting in a jar of water/sanitizer. Try to keep about 20% headspace in your primary fermenter if you're not doing the blowoff method. >3) Cleaning and sanitation: any cool gadgets/tricks that would make this >necessary chore faster and more effective than using the long crooked brush >by itself...? A powerwasher would probably fit in the "cool" category, but it's probably only safe to use on stainless ;-) Your best tools are probably the crooked carboy brush and a bottle washer which attaches to your sink faucet. Beyond those tools, you'll be leaning more towards cool and less towards faster and effective. Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "I have made this letter longer than usual, because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 15:35:24 -0400 From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur at email.msn.com> Subject: Strawberry Wheat I'm trying to put together a recipe for a five gallon, all grain Strawberry Wheat beer. I was poking around on Cats Meow and Gambrinus Mug looking for recipe ideas. Not alot of them out there. I'm curious if anyone out there in HBD land has ever attempted one? What I've put together so far is the following: Recipe : Yellow Breeches Strawberry Wheat Batch Size (GAL): 5.00 Wort Size (GAL): 5.00 Total Grain (LBS): 10.00 Anticipated OG: 1.056 Plato: 13.69 Anticipated SRM: 3.8 Anticipated IBU: 42.1 System Efficiency: 75 Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes % Amount Name Origin Gravity SRM - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - 40.0 4.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) America 1.036 2 60.0 6.00 lbs. Wheat Malt America 1.038 2 Hops Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - 1.00 oz. Northern Brewer Whole 9.00 39.2 60 min. 0.50 oz. Willamette Whole 5.00 2.9 15 min. Extras Amount Name Type Time - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 32.00 Oz Fresh Stawberries Fruit 5 Days(fermenter) Yeast - ----- WYeast 1056 Amercan Ale/Chico I should also mention these would be fresh Pennsylvania strawberries cleaned and diced. The questions that I'm hoping to have answered are: 1. Should I add the strawberries to the primary or secondary? I've seen where some people add them to the boil kettle once the boil is complete and allowing them to steep. If this is done then the remnants of the fruit would stay in the kettle with the trub and spent hops once everythings been transferred to the fermentor. 2. Do I have enough strawberries? 3. Is cleaning and dicing them enough prep? 4. Are my IBUs adequate for a fruit beer? Any suggestions that anyone has would be greatly appreciated. Having never attempted a fruit beer before has me playing out of my league. Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA Home of the "Award Winning" Yellow Breeches Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 08:28:17 +1200 From: Brian Myers <BrianM at AdvantageGroup.co.nz> Subject: Re: 101 Glass Carboy Questions #102: The rubber stopper went into the carboy! How do I get it out again? After several years of brewing, it finally happened to me this weekend. Remembering my HBD lore, I knew the answer was: Use a handkerchief - put it half-way in the carboy, roll the stopper on to the handkerchief, then slowly pull both out. Worked like a charm. Thanks HBD! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 16:58:40 -0400 From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Cold Wort O2 methods I support Dan notion. I think running your regulator at full throttle is a waste of gas. I run mine 2 shots of 30 seconds separated by 2 or 3 minutes. If it foams out before 30 seconds I go back and hit it again 5-10 min later. I turn it up slowly till I see a slow roll across the surface. Blasting it waste's foam and O2. I also think Dan is over doing it a bit. the beer reached its O2 saturation point long before the 15 minutes it took to fill his carboy. I am suprised his tank lasted that long. I stopped boiling my steel stone each time I used it about 4-5 batch's ago (what a PITA!). Now it seems to be all clogged up. DOH!!! Or maybe my the last bottle got used very inefficiently at big brew behind my back, doing only four 5 gal batches...The current new bottle barely moves the difused sanitizer water down the tube through the stone. So currently it is sitting in Lemon scented acetone, Will this un-plug-it??? Phil Wilcox poison frog home brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 16:09:25 -0400 From: "Greg Hunter" <ghunter at plimoth.org> Subject: chillers I am interested in using a second pump with my counter flow chiller. Currently I pump ice water from a 3 gallon bucket to chill the hot wort(works like a charm) I would like to pump the wort, instead of using gravity. I have a few questions. Is there a best speed to pump hot wort through the chiller? What are the pump options? I have looked in peristaltic pumps and am scared off by the price. Can I use other types and what are the risks? I would like to move to all grain brewing at some point can the pump be hooked up with quick disconnects or tees to allow multiple uses of the same pump? Private e-mails are fine. Gregory F. Hunter Director of Finance Plymouth Plantation (508) 746-1622 x-8201 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 16:07:17 -0600 From: "Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck at aexp.com> Subject: Re. 101 Glass Carboy Questions Todd writes > I'm getting ready to make the jump from my Basic > Starter setup (two plastic fermenters...) to > fermenting in one or more glass carboys. Don't do it! Those plastic fermenting buckets are the best improvement to homebrewing since Charlie's much alligned book. The hassle of working with 40lb (full) slippery-when-wet glass is not worth the nominal, if any, improvement you will notice. Put your enegy into other areas where the return in your investment will really make a difference. Jeff Luck Salt Lake City, UT Having a wonderful wine, wish you were beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2001 08:49:25 +0930 From: Barney Wrightson <Barney.Wrightson at aspect.com.au> Subject: Re: Aussie beer glasses I dont know about larger ones, but Cooper's Brewery (Home of the famous Sparkling ale) has, In addition to various other merchandise, a 285ml glass available on their web site (www.coopers.com.au) for A$5.50 - "Coopers 285ml Brasserie Glass (#CC58)" which we refer to as a schooner in South Australia as opposed to a pot in Victoria (It is always a nice surprise when I go to Vic and ask for a schooner :) ). HTH, Barney Wrightson * I am not affiliated with Coopers in any way except as a loyal consumer :) ************************************************************************ MIMEsweeper has been used to check this email for security ************************************************************************ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 22:34:32 -0500 From: "elvira toews" <etoews1 at home.com> Subject: benzene avoidance Several brewers in our club are on their first or second year of growing hops, and with the growing numbers the usual options for dealing with the lack of alpha acid analysis: - trial batch - use them for aroma only - grow high-alpha hops because the relative variation is less may not be the only way out. If 6 brewers grow 2-3 varieties we could have 15 samples, at which point the cost of commercial analysis might not be prohibitive. The method is simple enough that any analytical service lab should be able to manage it. The _Official_Methods_of_Analysis_ of the American Organization of Analytical Chemists lists a 1963-1964 version of the ASBC method which uses benzene for the extraction. This is just generally an all-around awkward solvent. Does anyone know if the current ASBC or IoB method uses toluene instead? If so, are the wavelengths and formulae the same or different? This matters as I don't expect our local labs to have ASBC methods on the shelf (yeah, we can't all live in Oregon) so I'm going to ask for the method out of the AOAC book if we don't get dinged extra bucks for using benzene. Further to the subject, to save money, I can get the lab to report the absorbance values and do the calculations myself, etc. How about grinding the hops ourselves? What is a good domestic way of grinding whole hops without oxidizing the acids? Would a Krups-type coffee mill do? Thanks for the help, Sean Richens srichens at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
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