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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Defunct?  Never! (TOLLEY Matthew)
  RE: 2.2L = 1 mile? (TOLLEY Matthew)
  "intermediate" mashing instructions. ("Dr. Pivo")
  Mead recipe ("Michael J. Dale")
  lager yeast (Marc Sedam)
  rims pump (The Freemans)
  In Defense of  Glass Carboys (Stephen Klump)
  Re: lemongrass usage (Rob Dewhirst)
  RIMS pump ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Brewpubs in Detroit (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Pump Duty (Brad Miller)
  Brewing Flags ("David Craft")
  Yokohama and Tokyo ("Mutsuo Hoshido")


* 
* 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA
* June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more 
* information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig!
* http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping
* 
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
*

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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:02:50 +1000
From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au>
Subject: Defunct?  Never!

From: AJ <ajdel at mindspring.com>

>Darwin Stubby was a 2L bottle of NT Lager or NT Draught - can't remember
>which and they are now defunct. 

Never!  Saw them for sale in a Woden bottle shop this very weekend.

Cheers
 ...Matt...


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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 16:22:05 +1000
From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au>
Subject: RE: 2.2L = 1 mile?

From: Joe Yoder <headduck at swbell.net>

>Once again showing our American (U.S.) stupidity when it comes to the
>metric system.  I am pretty sure that there are 2.2 L to the mile, so a
>Darwin really isn't that much beer!!  

There must be some sort of American joke that's going waaay over my head
here.  A Darwin stubby is a bottle that holds 2 (2.25?) litres of beer (I
probably should have use a lower case 'l').

Now that I've cleared that up, what the heck were you folk talking about?  I
can't think of any measure of distance symbolised by an 'L' or 'l' of which
2.2 add up to a mile.

Cheers!
 ...Matt...


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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 13:06:04 +0200
From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se>
Subject: "intermediate" mashing instructions.

'spose it's up to the interpreter, to decide if this is "beginning" or
"intermediate", but Dave Line's "The Big Book of Brewing" is really the
thing that set all the homebrewing wheels rolling, the first book I read
on the subject, and one which I've lent out (sp?) innumerous times.

I just pulled my dog-eared copy off the shelf, to see if it really still
is worthwhile, and I'd say the answer is "Yes".  A very charming writing
style, that I assume reflects a similar attitude.  Most of the equipment
is pretty dated, and he was by today's standards perhaps a bit limited
in which brewing styles he produced,  but he planely states things, that
are apparently still not clear  around HBD.

What I really recall enjoying, was his little "bedtime story" about the
"Amylase family" ("Alf" and "Betty" ), and their woodchopping..... I
still "borrow" this analogy when explaining how mash enzymes work to
someone that I can see "shudders" and "goes blank" at the mention of
chemical terms.

So if undertanding the mashing process is what you're after, I'd say the
book still is good value.... plus a bloody charming read, and a bit of a
"historical document".

Dr. Pivo



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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:43:03 -0400
From: "Michael J. Dale" <mdale70 at bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Mead recipe

My brother just got engaged and I would like to make 
him and his wife-to-be some mead for the honeymoon.  
Does anyone have a good recipe for mead, or know where 
I can find one?  I have never made mead before, 
although I gather that it can't be that different from 
making beer.

Thanks.

mjd


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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:20:46 -0400
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: lager yeast

I couldn't agree with Paul more.

Once again...

H0:  Fermenter geometry will have no effect on FG of beer.
H1:  Fermenter geometry will have a statistically relevant
effect on FG of beer.
H2:  Fermenter geometry will have a statistically relevant
effect on the speed of fermentation.


I hate to constantly preach the KISS model, but this would
be so much easier if we could agree to brew an extract lager
(why not a helles using extra light malt extract, unless
someone [Jeff?] can convince Mary Anne Gruber to donate some
CAP extract to the 'spurment).

Find a source for Saflager S-23 which, I can attest, gives
good fermentation characteristics.  I know DeFalco's carries
it.  My Saflager CAPs and Helleses (Helli?) are all fine
beers, if not a bit cloudier.  Find a source of anti-foam
agent as well.  Ferment in a 5 gallon carboy vs. 5 gallon
corny.

Has anyone considered asking the AHA to chip in some of the
cost here?  Aren't they for promoting the homebrewing hobby?

Cheers!
Marc

- --
Marc Sedam
Associate Director
Office of Technology Development
The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill
308 Bynum Hall; CB# 4105
Chapel Hill, NC  27599-4105

919.966.3929  (phone)
919.962.0646  (fax)
OTD site :  http://www.research.unc.edu/otd
eMTA site: http://mta.unc.edu




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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 09:54:06 -0500
From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net>
Subject: rims pump

I use 2 of the March 809 series pumps on "the perfesser".  These are
bronze bodied mag drives that can take just about anything you want to
throw at them and are virtually bullet proof.

http://www.brewrats.org/hwb/er/images/er10.jpg

The pump is the same as used by the Pico folks.  It is available from
McMaster Carr under their part # 4161K21 and is priced at $125.27.  If
this seems steep pricing, just remember what you have already replaced.
Use the 1/25th HP version as I have tried the 1/100th HP unit and found
it lacking.

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Hope this helps,

Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat
KP Brewing - home of "the perfesser'
Birmingham, AL




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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 08:21:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stephen Klump <spklump at yahoo.com>
Subject: In Defense of  Glass Carboys 

In defense of glass:
Yes glass is heavier than plastic,
But you can buy handles that attach to the
neck to give help in holding it (dont grab
the handle without supporting the base).

Glass doesnt get ruined from scratches
 -Ive had glass carbouys for 5+ years...
plastic buckets dont last that long

With glass you can see films on the inside which 
mean you need to soak/clean more...
with plastic you need good eyesight 8-)

With glass, you can see the fermentation in action
 -Waaaay coool if youve never seen it.

With glass, when you lift the vessel, the
bottom doesnt deform sucking in airlock water...

Carbouy brushing is a pain, but long handled
brushed are available to "ease the pain"....

Transferring into a glass carboy from a brewpot 
can be facilitated by two ways:
1) rack the initial portion of wort using 1/2"
tubing (see winebarrel plus at www.winebarrel.com)
2) pour through a screened funnel

To answer the posted question about what size
carboys: I use the 6.5-7 gal carboy with the
screwtop lid for primary and rack into 5 gallon
for secondary fermentation.
(I also have a couple of 3 gallon carbouys for
aging old ales, imp stouts, and small batches of
mead...)

Use the screw cap to seal the wort + yeast
and turn the carbouy onto its side and roll
back and forth to mix the yeast in well for
primary fermentation (try THAT with a plastic
bucket! ;-))

I hope this helps stir some pro-glass discussion
cheers!
Stephen

>Subject: Re  Re. 101 Glass Carboy Questions
>>"Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck at aexp.com> said:
>
>> Don't do it!  Those plastic fermenting buckets
>> are the best improvement to homebrewing since
>> Charlie's much alligned book.  The hassle of
>> working with 40lb (full) slippery-when-wet glass
>> is not worth the nominal, if any, improvement
>> you will notice.
>
>You know i find it very hard to disagree with this.
>Personally i've been
>doing all glass for my last couple of batches and
>frankly a full 6.5-7
>gallon carboy IS A PITA (pain in the arse). I'm going
>back to a bucket
>primary until i can get the scratch for a conical!
>
>Steven St.Laurent ::: stevensl at mindspring.net :::
>403forbidden.net


=====
************ 
Stephen P. Klump 
St. Louis Missouri 
spklump at yahoo.com



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Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2001 11:29:11 -0500
From: Rob Dewhirst <robd at biocomplexity.nhm.ukans.edu>
Subject: Re: lemongrass usage


>Subject: Lemon Grass Usage
>
>I just finished researching the HBD archives for info on lemon grass usage.
>There were several mentions of lemon grass, its effect, and pitfalls of
>using too much.  But no where did I find any advice on how much to use in a
>specific volume of beer.

Two local breweries make a Lemongrass Rye.  One uses 40 lbs/14 bbls.

Another uses 25 lbs/7 bbls. 15 in the last 10 mins of the boil, and 10 in 
the whirlpool.

I prefer the beer made by the latter.




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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:38:25 -0600
From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com>
Subject: RIMS pump


Jonathan Peakall asks for a 'tough as nails' pump.  March pumps has several.

For you USA folks visit B3 - they have a wide selection (no affiliation,
just an impressed competitor).

Up here in Canada, we (Paddock Wood- of course I am as affiliated as can be)
have been using the same RIMS pump for over 2 years, brewing 10 gallon
batches an average of 3 times a week. This pump has a high quality
temperature tolerant plastic impeller housing that can handle up to 230
degrees Fahrenheit, and will pump 5 gallons per minute while constantly
recirculating. 1/2" ports.  It is the same pump that ABT uses in their handy
Compu-Brew RIMS system.  We've seen no need to have more or different pumps
in stock.

YMMV, but we LOVE this pump.  You can see the specs at our website:

www.paddockwood.com/catalog_equipment_mash.html#MASHING

There are cheaper pumps out there, but depending on your set-up, they may
not be adequate.  IMO, it's worth the extra $ to get a pump that can handle
boiling temps, and that is virtually maitenance free.

Happy RIMSing!


cheers,

Stephen Ross -- "Vitae sine cerevisiae sugant."

Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK, Canada
orders at paddockwood.com  www.paddockwood.com




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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 13:23:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com>
Subject: Brewpubs in Detroit

I will be travelling to Detroit next week and would appreciate any
pointers to good brewpubs in the area.  Also would appreciate any pointers
of which to avoid because they may be in a dangerous neighborhood, as I am
only familiar with Dearborn and Allen Park.

Please send to me in Email at address below as this may not be generally
useful to the readers of the Digest.

thanks,
dion

- --
Dion Hollenbeck  Email:  hollen at woodsprite.com
Home Page:       http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page:    http://hdb.org/hollen



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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 10:40:21 -0700
From: Brad Miller <millerb at targen.com>
Subject: Pump Duty

	I was thinking about re-re-redesigning my brewing setup was 
wondering what a duty cycle for a little giant pump would be.  What i 
want to do is to use my PID to turn it on and off to hold/ramp my 
temp.  I can set the control period to whatever I want but am 
wondering whatt the pump can handle.  Obviously I don't to set the 
time to 5 seconds but if it were 1 minute would that be too quick?  I 
just don't want to buy expensive salonoid valves.  Any thoughts?

Brad


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Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2001 14:06:43 -0400
From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com>
Subject: Brewing Flags

Greetings,

I had several responses about where to find flags and quite a bit of
interest in acquiring one. I found several retail stores that carry what
seems to be the same flag. Medium blue background with a full and foamy beer
mug, 3' x 5'.

The various retail stores offer them for about $20 each. They are screen
printed and not the kind the with the individual colors sewn on. Custom sewn
would be quite a bit more, over $50 each. They are of basic quality, but how
often are you going to fly it? Don't answer that!

You can see the flag at www.swimport.com/flags/F85.jpeg

You can also see that they sell them for $14.95 each, less at wholesale with
a minimum order.

I can buy them wholesale and sell them for $10 each including shipping! My
desire is not to make money, but offer to the brewing community a nice way
to show what we like to do. If I can get 20 people interested, I'll buy them
and ship them out.  I accept Paypal and have a positive Ebay rating of 118+
as ChsyHkr at aol.com for both Ebay and Paypal.

Let me know if you are interested. I hope I have not run afoul of the rules
of the digest. This is not SPAM or attempt to sell retail on this list, only
an attempt to do something nice for my fellow brewers. Many of whom have
helped over the last year improve my beers. Second place in the Southeast in
the Ordinary Bitter category, this years AHA competition!

Brewing on,

David Craft
Greensboro,  NC



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Date: Thu, 07 Jun 2001 12:52:08 +0900
From: "Mutsuo Hoshido" <mutsuo_hoshido at hotmail.com>
Subject: Yokohama and Tokyo

At Shibuya in Tokyo, there is a department store which has a
special floor for homebrewing. The name is "Tokyu Hands".
I am afraid that pricing is very expensive( two or
three times more expensive than the original price) because all of
the ingredients are imported from USA.

So most of advanced homebrewers in Japan directly import
ingredients from USA.

Basically homebrewing exceeding 1% alcohol content is illegal.
So cheep Japanese ingredients are not available for homebrewing
except a hidden root within a homebrewers.

I hope you are successfully get your ingredients.


**********************************************
     Mutsuo Hoshido

  1-28-25 Shimizusawa Shiogama-shi
  Miyagi-ken Japan #985-0061
  Phone +81-22-364-0437
  (domestic:022-364-0437)
URL: http://www.geocities.co.jp/Foodpia/1751/

   LINK is free without notice.
**********************************************



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