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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: Supplies in Japan ("Mutsuo Hoshido")
  Re: Things Are Grim In Burradoo (Wes Smith)
  Re: Oxygenation (Kurt Kiewel)
  Easy valve for Gott Cooler ("Donald D. Lake")
  Brewing worksheets online ? (Tom Riddle)
  Accurate Carboy Temperature Reading ("Hedglin, Nils A")
   (Dana Edgell)
  yeast, evolution, and oxygen - ultrageeky ("Alan Meeker")
  CCF Yeast harvesting/dumping (Troy Hager)
  HBD Button ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Travel Advice (Petr Otahal)
  another good book (Jeff & Ellen)


* 
* 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA
* June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more 
* information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig!
* http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping
* 
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 15:14:14 +0900
From: "Mutsuo Hoshido" <mutsuo_hoshido at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Supplies in Japan

Dear Chris-san

Thank you very much for your explanation about supplies in Japan.

I am one of rather most active Japanese homebrewers actually
living in Japan.

I would like to add some information to yours.

>Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:20:21 +0900
>From: Christopher Jon Poel <cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp>
>Subject: Re: Supplies in Japan
>
>Kurt Kiewel wrote:
>
> >I brewed in Japan for a while and never heard of any homebrew shops.
>
>None yet, although some large department stores have "homebrew" sections.

About five years, before bubble economy explosion, there were more than
30 small homebrew shops in Japan, At present less than ten shops are
remaining.

One member of our homebrew ML members stated his homebrew side business
using internet. I found there are five to six internet homebrew shops
in Japan too.


> >I'm told that there are brew-pubs in Japan now.  Perhaps if there's one 
>in

Five years ago Japanese microbreweries reached to around 300 all over Japan.
Competitions are very severe. Their beers are two or three time more 
expensive
than the very expensive normal commercial beers.

After the bubble economy explosion most of then are suffering from very low
profitability.

Recently we, Japanese homebrew ML members, developed new root to get grains
with very cheep price directly from one of whole sellers to microbreweries.

One package is 25kg or 55 lb.

We still have to import necessary hops and yeast from the USA if we want to
save money. Japanese homebrew shops' pricing is surprisingly expensive 
because
of the very limited market and sales amount.


> >your area they'd be willing to part with some grains and yeast in 
>exchange
> >for a few English lessons.
>
>I am often able to get grains from microbreweries in exchange for
>"volunteering" at some event, which usually involves more drinking
>than working.

I had personally used the same way to get grains, yeasts and hops.
I found that this was not stable supply root.

>
> >Homebrewing in Japan is the only way to go because all four kinds of beer
> >they have there are way too expensive not to mention they don't taste 
>like
> >anything.

We sometimes make our homebrew sake using commercially available materials
which are sold as cooking materials.

>
>Totally agreed. A six pack will set you back more than $10 -- can you
>imagine paying $10 for a six of Bud or Coors or Miller?

Recently big beer breweries stated to produce very cheep beer using
liquid malt like homebrew beginners. Still expensive but about $5 for
6 cans.

> >Most Japanese think it's illegal to brew at home.  This is simply not 
>true
> >so... relax, don't worry yyy..

Homebrew sake had been a one of Japanese cultures.
Militarism and Shinto religion destroyed this culture during the war.


>Actually homebrewing is still against the law, unless alcohol content
>is less than 1%. But, the law is rarely, if ever, enforced. Kind of
>like the ridiculously low speed limits in Japan -- no one follows
>them and the police are only bastards if you really overdo it.

>The upshot is, if you want to homebrew in Japan, be prepared to do a
>lot of Internet ordering . . . and waiting for the sea mail to
>arrive. Plan ahead and have extra equipment and you're fine.

This is very good advise.


>
>Chris
>


**********************************************
     Mutsuo Hoshido

  1-28-25 Shimizusawa Shiogama-shi
  Miyagi-ken Japan #985-0061
  Phone +81-22-364-0437
  (domestic:022-364-0437)
URL: http://www.geocities.co.jp/Foodpia/1751/

   LINK is free without notice.
**********************************************



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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 17:44:24 +1000
From: Wes Smith <wessmith at ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Things Are Grim In Burradoo

Well folks, the Baron has returned from his sojourn in New Zealand - AKA 
'The Land of The Long White Shroud", to find we have progressed - at last! 
Actually I was pretty sure the Baron was back as I thought I heard the 
"tack tack" of the Norton Twin as he did an early morning run around 
Burradoo, but I wasn't quick enough to see if he was in his usual state of 
(un)dress. Rumour also has it that he has been "hand selecting" a small 
flock of sheep in NZ to put into his newly acquired piece of real estate to 
keep the grass down - so he can get a better view of Marilyn as she emerges 
from the bog surrounding his ponds. But I digress....

Yes the Burradoo Hilton (BH) has finally closed, gone to the Big Hotel in 
the sky or wherever they send such establishments that have passed their 
"use by date". Actually, the BH has never been the same since they closed 
the second floor verandah. Those Friday night "showers" and some of the 
other shenanigans that used to keep us entertained were all just a bit much 
for the gentle folk of Burradoo. And then they banned all renditions of "Oh 
Danny Boy" which was a real shame because David did a great job of that 
number. And then the locals started calling it the "Syringe Inn" because of 
some incident that may or may not have occurred - and that really was the 
last straw. And what about the carpet "experience" - you could actually see 
the "juice" ooze as you walked across the bar... And we musn't forget the 
illegal plumbing that mysteriously disappeared from the Gents back into the 
cellar....

But like all good things, it had to come to an end. Last Friday the BH 
re-emerged from behind the builders scaffolding as the Royal Hotel complete 
with new carpet, lots of shiny brass, no illegal plumbing and real 
furniture. Same old swill on tap and yes, some lovely ladies to serve it 
all up. The rumour that I had something to do with the staff selection is 
just that - but I wish........... Anyway the new Royal will be well 
patronised by the gentle Burradoo folks who will probably never know about, 
or indeed understand, the significance of the Dry-As-A-Bone and SouWester 
permanently displayed in glass case opposite the doorway leading to the new 
balcony. Jill was kind enough to let us have it in Phils absence, and the 
new owners, being anxious to retain some links to the past,  keen to 
display any artifact that would pull some of the old regulars.

Who knows - on a quiet Friday evening if you listen very carefully, you 
might just make out the faint strains of "Oh Danny Boy" and the raucous 
laughter that used to permeate the BH. But I doubt the new clientele will 
ever understand why Phil's Dry-As-A-Bone and SouWester are on display.

Vale BH, Long Live the Royal!

Wes Smith.

ps. All sheep jokes should be forwarded direct to the Baron himself - he is 
still on a steep learning curve.



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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 09:22:04 -0500
From: kiewel at mail.chem.tamu.edu (Kurt Kiewel)
Subject: Re: Oxygenation

Marc Hawley wrote:

"Anybody ever try putting hydrogen peroxide into the fresh wort when pitching
the yeast? This would release oxygen directly to the wort. Just an idea."

Some time ago Rodney Morris (the inventer of the RIMS system) told me that
he puts something in his wort that yeast apparently use as an oxygen
source.  Now this conversation was about a year ago and after a few beers
but what I remember him saying was Oxalic acid.  I'll try and hit hm up for
details the next time he comes to a brewclub meeting.  This could be a
while.  Perhaps someone has heard of such a thing and could give more
details here on the HBD.  Then again it could be another Rodney Morris
original.

I've never tasted one of his beers and in 3 years in the the same club I've
never heard of anyone who has tasted one of his beers so lets not go
dumping oxalic acid into our worts just yet.

Kurt Kiewel
Thankfully not underwater in
College Station, TX




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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:53:08 -0400
From: "Donald D. Lake" <dlake at gdi.net>
Subject: Easy valve for Gott Cooler

The plastic valve that came with my Gott cooler (that was modified into
a hot liquor tank) cracked and had to be replaced.  Remembering some
ideas posted on HBD, I was able to quickly make a new one with ten bucks
and a fast trip to ACE Hardware.

I used a rubber mini-keg bung which fit perfectly into the existing hole
(pushed in from the inside of the cooler).  A 3-inch 1/4"" brass nipple
slides in perfectly into the bung. For a valve I bought a brass ball
valve with 1/4"" fittings.  Here's how it shook out:

    Mini-keg
Bung                                                            $1.00
(from homebrew shop)
    3 inch 1/4"" Brass
nipple                                             $2.00
    Brass Ball
Valve                                                         $7.00
    1/4" Brass Hose Barb
$1.00
    The joy of an easy, inexpensive, no-leak replacement:   Priceless

I just love it when things go as planned.  It reminds me of that song by
Van Morrison
"When all the parts of the puzzle start to look like they fit....Well my
mama told me there'll be days like this"

Don Lake
Lake Water Brewery




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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:23:53 -0400
From: Tom Riddle <ftr at oracom.com>
Subject: Brewing worksheets online ?



Does anyone know if the brewing worksheets from 
Randy Mosher's "Homebrewers Companion" are available 
in electronic form somewhere on the web ?


- -- 

Tom Riddle
Portsmouth, NH


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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:35:47 -0700
From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com>
Subject: Accurate Carboy Temperature Reading

Hi all,
  I'm pulling my hair out here in California (not that I have much left to
begin with), trying to keep my wort cool.  I've read lots of suggestions
about wet t-shirts, ice baths, etc, all of which are great, but my problem
is getting an accurate reading of the wort temperature when it's in a
carboy.  I've got the Fermometer strips on the side of the carboy, but I've
begun to doubt their accuracy.  I bought one of those special thermostats to
attach to my garage refridgerator, but I think it's broken & I haven't had
an opportunity to return it.  So, I've tried just running my frig normally
without it.  I put a floating thermometer in a big glass of water in the
frig too to use as a secondary check.  The 2-3 times I've checked the wort,
the Fermometer strip on the carboy has read about 20 degrees lower than the
floating thermometer in the water.  The 1st reading was when I set the frig
too low.  The floating thermometer read about 48 & the Fermometer had no
reading (I guessed it was off the low end).  The 2nd reading was 66 for the
thermometer & 48 for the Fermometer strip.  At this point, I don't know
which to trust, or if I should toss the whole batch since it looked to get
up to 84 degrees at one point.  So, any suggestions on what I can do
differently, or if I'm doing something wrong?  My wife has a nifty cooking
thermometer on the end of a flexible lead.  It has a digital readout with at
the other end of the lead, so you can see the temp without opening the oven.
Using the proper sanitation, could I dangle this down into the wort when I
make it, & just leave it in there during the whole fermentation?  Or would
there be some sort of bad reaction with the metal?
Thanks,
Nils Hedglin
Sacramento, CA



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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 10:50:53 -0700
From: Dana Edgell <edgell at far-tech.com>
Subject: 

Alan.

In a recent HBD Alan McLeod says,

[My only fear with book collecting is that I will
get really itchy for a copy of the 18th century "London and Country
Brewer" which is listed on the internet at a couple of thousand bucks.]

It is available for free in PDF file of scanned pages. Check out
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/london/

Dana


Dana Edgell
FARTECH, Inc., 8380 Miramar Mall #227, San Diego, CA 92121
858-373-0349
Dana Edgell
FARTECH, Inc., 8380 Miramar Mall #227, San Diego, CA 92121
858-373-0349



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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 14:12:31 -0400
From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu>
Subject: yeast, evolution, and oxygen - ultrageeky

Regarding recent posts concerning yeasts' use of oxygen and barley/grape
sugars:

Firstly, it is not strictly true that brewer's yeast can live indefinitely
in the absence of oxygen (true anaerobe). True, in the lab we can grow them
in the total absence of oxygen for as long as we want /if/ we supplement the
growth media with unsaturated fatty acids and ergosterol. Lacking such
supplementation the yeast cannot continue to divide very far, thus they have
an absolute requirement for O2.

As far as yeast evolution goes, it is interesting to consider that, being
ancient single-celled eukaryotic organisms, yeasts originated long before
/multi-cellular/ plants such as barley or grapes ever existed. However, it
is correct that after plants came onto the scene they have since co-evolved.
Of course, if you're a Biblical literalist they were all created together
with the strong appearance that the yeast came first!

We now return you to your regularly scheduled program, already in
progress...

Alan Meeker
Lazy Eight Nano-Brewery
"Where the possibilities are endless"
Baltimore, MD





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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 12:00:55 -0700
From: Troy Hager <thager at hcsd.k12.ca.us>
Subject: CCF Yeast harvesting/dumping

Pete asks about how we dump yeast from the BBMB conical. 

My CCF has the  1/2" NPT brass butterfly valve on the bottom (which in my
opinon is too small) and the racking tube on the side with the SS ball valve
and the clover clamp. I take everything apart for every brew and soak in
cleaner and then sanitizer. My usual process is after racking to
keg/bottling bucket I clean the fermenter with TSP or PBW then take all the
fittings off and soak in a small pot with the cleaner. I brush them out with
a small bottle brush and rinse them well.

On brew day I reassemble the fittings onto the CCF and go about sanitizing
with StarSan. I know that others just run boiling water or clean w/out
disassembly but after talking to George DP and learning that the brewpubs
disassemble everything on their conicals for ever brew I decided to be safe
and do it too.

As far as the harvesting/dumping of the yeast, I usually wait till day 2-3
of fermentation (ales) and then dump to a sanitized quart canning jar. I
spray off the fittings with iodophore or StarSan religiously before and
after use. I open the butterfly on the bottom and it usually take a bit of
time for the thick compacted yeast to make its way out but I get a healthy
jar of yeast that drops out to usually about a pint of slurry below a pint
of beer. I usually wait this long because I do not want to dump on day 1 and
then have the sludge sitting there collecting bacteria for a day or two and
being transfered to my "clean" yeast slurry that I want to keep.

I have really seen not much layering of the trub/hop/break/yeast material in
this slurry so I have not washed it. I store it in the fridge and usually
use it in 2-3 weeks or share with brew buddies and get very low lag times
and very complete fermentations.

Hope this helps.

Troy




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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 17:17:37 -0400
From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: HBD Button

Thinking about the upcoming AHA National Conference in LA, I decided to order
one of the HBD name tag buttons. On the HBD web site it indicated a wait of
several weeks when ordering the button. I decided to go ahead and order one
anyway and sent an email to Pat & Karl requesting that it be done as quickly
as possible since I was hoping to wear it at the Conference.

I got the HBD button in the mail today, well in time to use it at the AHA
conference in LA next week.

Thanks, guys, I really appreciate it.

However, I do have one issue to bring up - along with the button was an
enclosed paper. Among other things, it said, "While surface moisture is not a
problem, your button will be ruined if it gets soaked, so no dunking in beer
or swimming with it on, please."

Now I'm not a lawyer (nor do I play one on tv) so I probably won't state this
correctly -  but I'll do my best (maybe Louis Bonham could help me out here).
There is a doctrine in law concerning product liability. Basically, you should
have expectations that a product will hold up within the scope of reasonable
use of that product for its' intended function. Now, a button intended for
homebrewers might reasonably be expected to get dunked in beer or the wearer
get tossed in a pool during a rowdy party at some point.

On the whole, I'm extremely pleased by the button, but I've gotta tell ya I'm
going to loose sleep at night worrying about these possibilities.

Mark Tumarkin
Gainesville, Fl

ps - I look forward to getting the chance to share a beer with as many of you
as possible in LA. Who else is planning on attending the conference? Let me
know.






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Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 10:27:58 +1000
From: Petr Otahal <potahal at utas.edu.au>
Subject: Travel Advice

Hi All,

I will be travelling to Europe and Canada in Aug/Sept/Oct, and I would like
some advice on breweries to visit, festivals to attend, and beers to try.

Firstly I will be in the Czech Republic for a few weeks where I am
definitely going to Plzen, will also visit the Radegast brewery as it is
close to where my relatives live.  Unfortunately my relatives are wine
makers so dont have much knowledge about the best beers to try.

I will then be staying in Aachen for a week or so, and will be visiting
Duesseldorf and Koeln and a short trip into Belgium.  I have no idea where
to go in Belgium, but I would like to go somewhere where I can sample a few
different styles and also somewhere that has something interesting for my
partner.  I would also like a recomendation of pubs to go to in
Duesseldorf, Koeln, and Aachen.

I will then be in the UK for a few weeks and will be going to Burton to
visit the Marstons Brewery, which I believe is the last brewery to use the
Burton Union System. Will also be around the midlands (Derbyshire,
Liecestershire, Nottinghamshire), then Newcastle and finaly to the St.
Albans beer festival at the end of September.

Will be landing in Calgary in early October and doing a very touristy drive
accross the Rockies to Vancouver (must keep SWMBO happy). So I would also
like some advice on Microbreweries and such between Calgary and Vancouver.

Then to complete the circuit I will be stopping in Hawaii for a few days to
visit some friends.  Then home to let my liver relax.

Thankyou in advance.
Private email is fine.
Cheers
Petr




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Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2001 20:28:49 -0400
From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net>
Subject: another good book

I've been waiting for anyone else to mention "Making Beer" by Mares, but I 
guess I may be one of very few who read it.  I'm sorry not to know the 
author's first name, but I lent out the book several years ago and it was 
never returned.  This book was the first and perhaps only book that I found 
that was written by someone more skilled as a writer than as a brewing 
scientist.  I had been struggling with David Miller's text and in 92 it was 
the first book that made sense of sparging for me.  I recommend it, not as 
a textbook, but as an overall view of all-grain brewing.

Jeff Gladish, Tampa



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