HOMEBREW Digest #3656 Mon 11 June 2001

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  Things Are Grim In Burradoo ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  Re:Odd problem with kegged beer ("RJ")
  The Biggest Night Of All ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  Re: Too much Oak (Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net>
  RE: Meade recipe (David Johnson)
  Practical Brewer pdf many chapters (David Harsh)
  Brew Books ("Bob Hall")

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 19:29:01 +1000 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Things Are Grim In Burradoo I regret to advise all world travellers and hearty beer drinkers that the one time "Hot Spot", luxurious, salubrious and all time favourite watering hole has been brought to a close. I'm speaking of none other than the Burradoo Hilton. Within the confines of "The Hilton", such celebrities as Dr Pivo, Ray Kruse and Jeff Renner, not to mention of course the Baron himself, have been seen and noted deep in thought and consumption. Even Fred Garvin has been sighted hanging precariously from a window on the second floor. Why is it gone? Well the Baron has taken his eye off the ball (away in New Zealand fighting kiwi pilots) and in his absence some serious decisions have been taken. Wes Smith (a kiwi himself) has all but taken over the town and the first thing he planned to knock off was the "Hilton". In its place stands a very sophisticated Hotel full of pomp and ladies. Mind you, some of those "ladies" Wes has employed, look remarkably like the girls I remember in my Billiard room! This is an outright act of hostility! The Baron is not happy! Until such time as the "Hilton" can be returned to its past position of glory, I recommend it be struck from the books as a sight worth visiting for world homebrewers. I went to New Zealand to fight the kiwis, only to return and find the bastards have nearly taken over Burradoo! Cheers An Unhappy Baron Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 06:17:15 -0400 From: "RJ" <wortsbrewing at cyberportal.net> Subject: Re:Odd problem with kegged beer "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> wrote: "Recent Problem: periodically the last few glasses of beer out of the keg are clear, odourless, tasteless. Basically carbonated water on tap. Fine, but not the desired product! The rest of the beer from the keg until the 'water' is just fine." Sounds to me like he may be fining his kegs with brewer's gelatin and preparing it wrong! If he is, he should use 1/2 tsp gelatin for every gallon of beer... Let it soak in cold water for 20 min, then stirring constantly, gently heat to ~160F... the gelatin will be ready for use, when it melds with the water (looks like clear liquid)... IF IT BOILS, THROW IT OUT and start again! While still warm, add it to the keg, carbonate, and allow 3-5 days for the keg to clear. "He adds more water to his kits than is called for...." Adding more water should not produce a problem of this nature... If he adds at the beginning of the boil, he boil longer and get a better utilization of his hops; If adds after the boil, he'll get a reduced OG; If he adds at kegging he'll reduce his ABV percentage and lighten his flavors, somewhat. Once, everything is mixed into the keg under pressure, I doubt that this would be the issue raised. "His fridge temp is like mine, just at or below freezing..." This near freezing temperature, is probably forcing the gelatin muck to the bottom. Try raising the temp to 38-42F serving temp.s. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 21:02:26 +1000 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: The Biggest Night Of All I simply can't get over the loss of the Burradoo Hilton. Those of you in America who have never ventured "down under" are never likely to appreciate what a focal point it was for Aussie beer lovers. Some most extraordinary nights have been had at the "Hilton". Perhaps the biggest was the night we coaxed Dave Lamotte from his bunker in Newcastle (a position he rarely leaves) for a visit to the Highlands. Dave is renowned as a most conservative brewer and avid reader of Kunze. The last I remember, he was up on stage with his pants down around his ankles, singing renditions of "Oh Danny Boy" whilst Dr Pivo collected money from the audience in his upside down brewing helmet. Needless to say, Dave has never been seen in the Highlands since. Nor for that matter has Doc Pivo. With the closure of the Hilton, perhaps they will never be seen again. Wes Smith, you had better have something good in mind to replace class acts such as this! Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 09:03:05 -0500 From: "James \(Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: Too much Oak In #3655, Nathan Matta sez: (snip) >which involved boiling with and fermenting on a small quantity of oak >chips. So, the mild is great, but there's a sharp bite right up front (snip) Putting them in the boiling wort? May should have boiled them first for a bit in water, then put them in the boiling wort. Sounds like you've extracted the tannins from the wood and no telling what else. I can only think of trying polyclar since that is supposed to remove tannins from beer to help reduce chill haze, but I don't know if they're the same kind of tannins. Wouldn't hurt to try it. Jay Reeves Huntsville, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2001 11:33:20 -0400 (EDT) From: David Johnson <dmjohnson at pol.net> Subject: RE: Meade recipe There are a lot of questions that probably should be answered before Michael (or anyone else) settles on a mead. 1) How soon is the wedding? A lot of meads (especially those made with champagne and montrachet yeast IMHO) take a year before they are ready to drink. This is especially true of higher alcohol neads. If time is short and your brother and his fiance prefer a dry beverage then a lower alcohol sparkling fruit mead (melomel) or spice mead (metheglyn) could be what would work best. If you have plenty of time, then you have a lot more options. 2) Dry or sweet? the easiest way to make a sweet mead is to add more honey than the yeast can ferment out. This can be done 2 ways. The first is a little more time consuming. You make a moderate gravity must (gravity 1.100) and start your fermentation and keep adding honey untill your yeast poops out. If you are using a beer yeast it is usually about 9-10% alcohol (though I used a belgian yeast and it went to 12% using the second method). Most wine yeasts will go 12-14% alcohol. The champagne yeast will get you to at least 18% by this method. I get the impression that this can be time consuming and I don't really use this method. Method 2 is to be really familiar with a certain yeast and start at a gravity that will leave residual sugar. I generally use Lalvin D-47. In my hands, I consistently get a 115 point drop in gravity from this yeast. I like sweeter meads so I will start with a gravity of about 1.120-1.130 and this will ferment out and leave some residual sugar. Question 3) Still or sparkling? Unless you want to leave residual sugar, sulfite, sorbate, and force carbonate your mead, there is no reliable and safe way to produce a sparkling sweet mead. This topic gets a lot of attention on the Mead Lovers Digest. Other methods are proposed, but would probably fall under the topic of "Advanced mead making". Dry sparkling meads are fairly easy and can be made a a variety of gravities much in the ways we do with beer. A suggestion I would make (and this is just MY opinion), I think that carbonating to beer levels is distracting in a mead and I would carbonate a mead to lower levels (similar to an english mild). Question 4) Crown caps or corks? This really refers back to #2. I would add that I think that mead ages out better when corked. Many mead makers feel that aging is inhibited by corks or caps. Question 5) Flavor-What do you like? Melomels tend to be drinkable at a younger age than a lot of other meads. Strong honeys like buckwheat tend to take more time to age and mature. Cysers (cider and honey) are a good first mead, but this is the wrong time of the year. Question 6) How much work are you willing to put in on this? Some of the recipes can be rather involved. And working with some fruit can be a pain (they tend to gelatinize and make siphoning a nightmare). So, did I scare you off yet? I think in lots of ways mead is easier to make than beer, but it is different! Before you make mead, I would strongly suggest reading Dave Polaschek and Tim Mitchell's "Mead made Easy"! Here is the link! http://www.best.com/~davep/mme/contents.html On a final note, a personal hint. I like to use commercial apple juice in all my sweet melomels. I substitute it for most of the water and it has a gravity of about 1.050. It seems to "fill in the corners" of a fruit mead without having a flavor impact of its own. Most fruit really has a negligible sugar content. My method is to heat 1 gal of preservative free apple juice with 1 gal (12 lbs) of honey to 150 degrees for 30 minutes to sanitize chill and mix with 3 gals of juice in a carboy aerate the must, hydrate the yeast, then pitch Lalvin D-47. The gravity of this mixture is about 1.126-1.130. I use pectic enzyme here. After fermentation slows, I will thaw out my fruit and place it into my plastic fermenter where I lightly mash (just to crack) the fruit with a sanitized wine bottle. Then I rack the fermenting must onto the fruit. I add pectic enzyme again here. I make sure there is plenty of head space here because a violent ferment could push the fruit out of the fermenter. Or clog the opening and fermentation lock. After at least a week (sometimes 2) I rack off the fruit using a sure screen. This can be difficult and sometime you will lose a fair amount of product here. Then I let it sit until clear. I will rack again if there is a lot of yeast sediment after fermentation ceases. When the mead is cleared, I taste and adust the sweetnessbased on the opinion of my expert taster (read wife). hope this helps! Dave Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2001 12:25:46 -0400 From: David Harsh <dharsh at fuse.net> Subject: Practical Brewer pdf many chapters Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> wrote that chapter 11 of the Practical Brewer won't open. I have a more extensive problem. My files of chapters 3 through 12, 17, 20, and 21 won't open. I knew it at the time, but because of the ridiculously low transfer rates I got, I put off trying again until it was too late. Let me know if you have copies you're willing to share. Dave Harsh Bloatarian Brewing League Cincinnati, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 09:54:31 -0400 From: "Bob Hall" <rallenhall at hotmail.com> Subject: Brew Books The recent discussion of favored brewing books sent me scurrying to the basement to find the musty copies that got me started in college: Home Brewing Without Failures by H.E. Bravery (now there's a name for a time when the terms "home brewing" and "bottle bombs" were synonymous), c.1965, and The Art of Making Beer by Stanley Anderson with Raymond Hull c. 1971. Are there any other copies out there? They're both primitive by today's standards, but a fun read and about all I could find apart from picking the brains of all the old German farmers who kept crocks foaming in their summer kitchens through Prohibition. I have a dozen or so books on the shelf, so for what it's worth here are my favorites: If I Could Only Have One : Designing Great Beers, Ray Daniels Quick Reference: Brewmaster's Bible, Stephen Snyder Standard Gift to a New Brewer: Homebrewing Vol. 1, Al Korzonas Most Thumbworn: Clonebrews, Tess/Mark Szamatulski and North American Clonebrews, Scott Russell Bob Hall Return to table of contents
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