HOMEBREW Digest #3662 Mon 18 June 2001

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  malt shelf life ("Peter Fantasia")
  re: 3 questions ("Peter Fantasia")
  Lambic Pitching Schedules (Gary M Chumney)
  Re low efficiency ("Peter Fantasia")
  mash efficiency (Jeff & Ellen)
  wort priming ("Dr. Pivo")
  Correction Factors for Water Treatment ("Pete Calinski")
  Using Lemon (Chuck Doucette)

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 09:33:47 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: malt shelf life Mike, go ahead and use it if it tastes good. Most things I've read say malt has a shelf life of at lest a year if stored dry and cool. Cheers, Pete Fantasia Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 09:46:17 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: re: 3 questions Jens, Regarding this film in bottles, I've had this from home cultured belgian yeast. Let the bottle sit with a Tablespoon of bleach per bottle overnight. This will do it. Regarding lager characteristics at ale temps. The German settlers that moved west to California had a similar problem try wyeast california lager 2112. It ferments well at higher temps. I've made Oktoberfest with it that was fantastic. Regarding freezing yeast. I never liked the idea of adding glycerol to my wort but I read an article in Zymurgy years ago about freezing yeast. You use three eighths cup cane sugar to one cup of water and boil 15 min. add this to equal part of yeast slurry and freeze. My "yeastsicles" last at least a year or more. Regards from New "Joisey" Pete Fantasia Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 09:36:50 -0400 From: Gary M Chumney <garychumney at juno.com> Subject: Lambic Pitching Schedules Lambic Pitching Schedule To answer your question I had to find the copy of BREW YOUR OWN; July 1997, Vol.3 No. 7 pg. 49. Let the Chico ale yeast work for two weeks. Then pitch the Brettanomyces let that work for two weeks then pitch the pediococcus and let it work for two weeks before bottling. All the other information that I have and the way I have produced Lambic style beers is to use a culture from the bottles or the mixed Lambic blend. Also, Used to check on this in a hurry were BREW YOUR OWN; November 2000, Vol.6, No. 9 Lambic; By Jean-Xavier Guinard, Classic Beer Style Series No. 3, Copyrighrt 1990 I checked several references in my brewing library, but these seemed to be the ones that you have the most information relevant to your question. >Subject: Lambic Pitching Schedules >Thanks to all those who pointed out that Wyeast sell four separate cultures >for Lambic. Now: what are the experiences in pitching what bug at what point? >Keith >Keith Busby >Professor of French >University of Wisconsin-Madison >Department of French and Italian >618 Van Hise Hall >Madison, WI 53706 >(608) 262-3941 >(608) 265-3892 (fax) Gary Chumney - Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 09:59:20 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Re low efficiency I always collect 13 gal for an 11 gal batch. I have very acid water here in the Pine Barrens so I don't worry about oversparging. Also make sure your grain is crushed enough. You can increase your efficiency dramatically with a finer grind. Of course too fine will lead to a stuck runoff. Check with iodine for starch conversion. Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2001 13:17:52 -0400 From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net> Subject: mash efficiency In response to Jeffrey Senn and Hop-head, who are having low mash efficiency problems, the two best steps I made to improve my mash were 1: buy my own grain mill and 2: add acidulated malt to the grain bill. Unless you have control over crushing the grains, you'll never be able to get peak efficiency. I add about 4 ounces of Wyerman acidulated malt to a 18 pounds of grain in the mash of a 10 gallon batch and it lowers the pH to the point that I no longer do any other rests than those in the 145 to 158 F range. It's amazing how well this works. I also tend to spend a lot of time recirculating the mash before I start sparging and I sparge rather slowly. This combined process sometimes takes an hour and a half. Raising the mash temp to 168 or so will also help sparge efficiency, if you can do this. If using a cooler for a mash tun, you could add boiling water or do a mini-decoction to raise the temp. 'Hope this helps. Jeff Gladish, Tampa, Fl Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 14:52:57 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: wort priming I seem to be getting an unusual pile of mail lately. All of it kind, and much of it helpful (especially on the winemaking stuff). Amongst this, has come a whole HEAP of questions. The ones that are repeated I thought I would answer publicly. One is about wort primng, what it is, and if there is advantages over using corn sugar or table sugar. As to the last part, I suppose each will have to decide for themselves.... but I like it. A simple reasoning, is that I make wort that my yeast seem to enjoy.... I've never had a stuck ferment, and I like my beer, so it must have "everything they need" in it. I might mention that I make protein "fat" worts (use malt with a Kohlback between 38-41, and am not unknown to boost that with some raw barley), and I definately let them have all the cold break to work with too. Since I am already making something that seems to be the "complete" meal for yeast, I can't see why I should "tease" them with some simple sugars, and leave out the other good stuff. I simply sanitise a container ( I like used 2 litre plastic ice-cream cartons) and fill it with some of the wort that I'm feeding into the fermenter straight out of the cooler, and then go pop that plastic box with snap on lid in the freezer. At a later date, when I might want to make a starter, or make a "krauzen", or prime something, I pull one back out of the freezer. If I plan ahead (rarely) I put it on the kitchen table the day before I need it, if I'm behind on my planning, I stick it in the micro and thaw it. After a while, you'll "know" how much you need for a certain job, but if you're first trying this, here is a "ball park" way to convert from "dry" measurements. When you've got your wort and yeast mixed up, pour a bit into a hydrometer, and let this park itself in your kitchen as well. At room temps it should rip through the fermentation pretty fast and tell you where your beer is going to end up ( it can also give you some clues about "adjustments" you might want to do to the "real ferment). Take your starting gravity and subtract your finishing gravity (this is what is called the "gravity drop"), and divide this number by four. That should tell you how much fermentable stuff you've got in your wort. For example, the hydrometer in your kitchen started at 1050 and finished at 1010. That's a drop of 40, divided by 4 that would be ten. That m,eans the "wort cicle" you put in the freezer is equivalent to being 10 percent by weight of glucose... or each liter is 100 grams of usable stuff (If you are locked into "cups", "ounces", "quarts" and other ice age remnants, you'll just have to do some converting.... or wake up to a new age). So if you've got 2 literes of the stuff frozen, that would be the same as weighing up 200 gms of "corn sugar" (well maybe not EXACTLY, but close enough for beer making). As I mentioned, you do this enough times, you'll know what kind of worts you make and how much you need for a specific task, and can skip the math and the hydrometer in the kitchen. This all may seem overly simple to those who already know it, but I seem to have gotten enough questions, that apparently not everyone does...... and I can't see why people should need to go out and buy an inferior product for yeast nutrition (simple sugars of any sort) when they are already making a much better one all the time. You "might" just turn out making better beers as well. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 19:56:09 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Correction Factors for Water Treatment A few weeks ago, I raised the concern about some of the salts we use to treat our brewing water because they can combine with water from the air. This water can increase the weight of the substance which results in an error in the water treatment. It seems that my concern WAS warranted. In some cases, the effect can result in the addition of less than half the quantity of the salt that is needed. This effects those of us that estimate the quantity of various ions needed to transform a given water into a desired water. It is of no concern to those that "just adds a teaspoon of gypsum" to brew the beer they like. The correction factors for each of the common salts are as follows. Gypsum 1.26 Epsom Salts 2.05 Canning Salt 1.00 Baking Soda 1.00 Calcium Chloride 1.32 to 1.97 and higher Chalk 1.00 This means that, if you use a program such as Brewwater or ProMash to compute the amount of the above salts to add, you need to increase the weight resulting from that computation by the factor above. For example, if you need 5 grams of MgSO4, you need to add (5 x 2.05) 10.25 grams of Epsom Salts. The method I used to derive these correction factors can be found at: http://hbd.org/pcalinsk/Correction.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2001 18:46:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Chuck Doucette <cdoucette61 at yahoo.com> Subject: Using Lemon Hello, I'm very new to the craft of Homebrewing (2 months and going onto my third batch of brew) and have a question about the use of Lemon or Orange in a recipe. The question is this: How much do I use for a five gallon batch and do I use the fruit itself, or should I use the peel? I have not been able to find anything that answers the quantity question, though I have seen reference to the use of Orange peel. Please be gentle with me since, as I said, I am very new to this. Thanks. Chuck Doucette O'Fallon, IL. (Near St. Louis, MO.) Return to table of contents
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