HOMEBREW Digest #3722 Thu 30 August 2001

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  Watering hops; Oakland (EdgeAle)
  My 1961 Kelvinator ("Thomas D. Hamann")
  Fermentation Ester Production/Oxygenation ("Campbell, Paul R SITI-ISEP-3")
  new to kegging (Ballsacius)
  Cutting Stainless ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Re: Chillers ("Pete Calinski")
  RE: problems culturing Chimay yeast ("Laborde, Ronald")
  Temperature controller + fridge == true love! ("John Zeller")
  Ranco Temp. Controller ("Bob Hall")
  An alternative to RIMS (The Freemans)
  Guinness draught, widgets etc ("Curtiss Norheim")
  Agave Mead (stpats)
  Re: Hydrometer correction ("Drew Avis")
  Re: Cold room problem (GASNER)
  Munich Musts ("Jim Busch")
  Brewer or Zymurgists? ("Jeff Beinhaur")
  Re: Infusion Calcs  /  How To Brew Hardcopy Available (John Palmer)
  Hoppy Halloween Challenge ("Susan Ruud")
  Wish I had thought of this ("Jack Schmidling")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 01:56:42 EDT From: EdgeAle at cs.com Subject: Watering hops; Oakland HBD Two things... 1) My hops look anemic. I know they often don't produce much the first year but they haven't even grown all the way up their rope yet. I think I am not watering them enough (I grew up in a place where water just fell from the sky and haven't quite got the hand of So. Cal. yet). How much and how often should I water my hops? You can assume that they get no rain. 2) I will be in Oakland next week. Any advice from loacla about good beer places downtown (no car) would be appreciated. Thanks, Dana Edgell - ------------------------------------------ Dana Edgell Edge Ale Brewery, Oceanside CA http://ourworld.cs.com/EdgeAle Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 15:38:18 +0930 From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> Subject: My 1961 Kelvinator Hi to the Collective (sound quite Soviet don't it!). I've got a problem with my (1961 Kelvinator) beer fridge that once was quite capable of maintaining selected temps between 0 deg C and 10 deg C. It now never gets below 4 deg C and also fluctuates from the setting that I would like it to stay at. Do you know if I can disable the fridge thermostat and replace it with a Jaycar unit that i have sitting in a box or is my fridge stuffed or is it low on refrigerant or something like that? Is Forrest out there maybe? thanks in advance Thomas (ruelps) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:41:40 +0200 From: "Campbell, Paul R SITI-ISEP-3" <Paul.R.Campbell at is.shell.com> Subject: Fermentation Ester Production/Oxygenation Chaps, I posted the following link previously: http://www.breworld.co.uk/the_grist/9804/gr2.html It relates the experiences of Shepherd Neame branching out into the production of a Weiss Bier. The salient points to note are that they allowed fermentation to rise from 20C to 25C and that they had a disappointing level of ester production (iso-amyl acetate is specifically mentioned as this is responsible for the banana aroma). This was solved by "controlling the relationship between oxygen levels and yeast counts". What was particularly interesting to me was that they discovered that they had overpitched in their initial trials. This was despite the fact that they had pitched at a rate of 0.5 million cells per ml - which is low compared to some of the figures quoted here in the past. Interestingly this appears to back up much of what has been discussed here, specifically: 1) Oxygenation is essential for yeast growth with low pitching rates 2) Yeast growth results in higher ester production (so not good for "clean" lagers) My question on all of this would then be that if one were making a clean lager style, should you pitch huge but NOT oxygenate (the latter to discourage yeast "growth")? I suspected that the answer was that it probably just doesn't matter... but maybe there could be a concern that the yeast don't eat up all the oxygen because they don't need it for growth, causing problems later in the life-cycle. Hmmm... CSA anyone? My understanding on the Zinc front was that it aided healthy fermentation, rather than affecting the growth phase, so it seems its use is consistent in Dave's technique. Is this where you're coming from Dave? Paul Campbell Gelnesk Scotland Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:39:59 EDT From: Ballsacius at aol.com Subject: new to kegging I have finally had it with botteling and want to take the kegging plunge. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Bob Fesmire Madman Brewery Downingtown,PA Ballsacius at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:49:47 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Cutting Stainless Carroll writes of Cutting Stainless: >There is a simple and elegant answer to the noise problem and to the >question of blade life. Remove the central fitting and fill the keg with >water. The water will dampen (pun intended) the noise and also cool the cut >area and thus prevent hardening of the SS. Good idea. I'm not too keen about water and electricity, but I guess the tool is far enough away. Another advantage to this is that the weight of the water should keep the keg from "walking" while you're working on it. I had to brace the keg with 2X4s and pipe clamps to keep it solidly in place. Now only if I could do the same to my 1 year old... Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "I have made this letter longer than usual, because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 09:35:13 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> Subject: Re: Chillers John Brumley asked about chilling. I chill in two stages with my immersion chiller. First I run tap water. Then when the rate of cooling slows because of the smaller temperature difference, I switch to stage two. I have a bottling bucket that I load with ice cubes and the blue ice packages (and anything else in the freezer that doesn't have to stay frozen). I fill it with water and then run the cooled water through the immersion chiller. I typically quit when I get down to 60F or so. Hope this helps. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 08:52:45 -0500 From: "Laborde, Ronald" <rlabor at lsuhsc.edu> Subject: RE: problems culturing Chimay yeast >Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2001 17:59:55 -0700 (PDT) >From: Rama Roberts <rama at eng.sun.com> > >Any suggestions? I've got a friend who is having similar problems with >Orval yeast. I have been having success by using Chimay bottles with the cork date no more than three months. Wait until you see a new delivery, and just start checking the corks until one appears. Also, I now use a stir plate and with the young bottle date, in about 2 days I have very noticeable yeast buildup. Ron La Borde Ronald La Borde - Metairie, Louisiana - rlabor at lsuhsc.edu http://hbd.org/rlaborde Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 07:15:19 -0700 From: "John Zeller" <jwz_sd at hotmail.com> Subject: Temperature controller + fridge == true love! On August 28, Dan wrote: "If you are going to do this, get the Ranco Temperature Controller with the adjustable differential (Northern Brewer, among other places, sell it). Then just set the differential to 1 degree" (snip) Dan, Setting the differential to 1 degree will shorten the life of your refrigerator compressor. The purpose of the differential is to reduce the rate of the on/off cycles. A couple of other things I have learned from experience. You need not immerse the temp. probe in the wort. You can simply tape it to the wall of the refrigerator and measure the air temperature. Yes, I know, the air temp. will not necessarily be the same as the wort temp. but it will be very close as soon as the vigorous fermentation slows in a day or two. The large thermal mass of the wort keeps it's temperature very stable and changes occur slowly. The cycling of the refrigerator, even with the differential set at 3 degrees will not significantly influence the temperature of the wort. You can verify this by measuring the temp of the wort directly. If you change temp. settings, you will need allow a lot of time for the wort to adjust (24 hours seems to do it for me). The big advantage here is keeping the probe out of the wort and reducing the chance of contamination. Hope this helps some. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:01:37 -0400 From: "Bob Hall" <rallenhall at hotmail.com> Subject: Ranco Temp. Controller I recently dedicated a freezer for fermenting and lagering, and found the Ranco heating/cooling digital temp. controller (Ranco #ETC-111000, Grainger #3ZP77) on the grainger.com website. Since Grainer sells only wholesale (I tried to order directly), I went down to the corner hardware and had them order it for me. Price with shipping and tax was still under $60, which I thought was a good savings. Be aware that the unit comes without external power cords, so you'll need to open it up and follow the simple directions for power in/load out. Since I needed an extension cord anyway it was just a matter of cutting, stripping and attaching. Bob Hall Napoleon, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 10:12:35 -0500 From: The Freemans <potsus at Bellsouth.net> Subject: An alternative to RIMS Since I use a heat exchanger rather than an element in the wort stream, the temp is really very constant on the output side. The heat exchanger I use is efficient enough that the wort temp out is virtually the hot water temp in. Flow rate can be nothing but a trickle all the way to uninterrupted and that temp stays the same. Precision Brewing Supply makes and sells the Maxichiller I use. This is an all copper counterflow chiller which I made into a heat exchanger by substituting hot water from my HLT for the normal cold water needed to chill. It simply works in reverse - heating rather than cooling. The efficiency for either chilling or heating is near 100% of whatever liquid you run through the thing for heating or cooling. 155 degree water in - 155 degree wort out. I tried the traditional RIMS with an inline element and immediately decided (after many $ and much time) that I just didn't want to do it that way. http://www.pbsbeer.com/pbs/pbscat.html. NAYY With an inline element any disruption of the flow will spike the temp up to and including scorching it. Using the inline system the reaction time for the controller must be almost instantaneous to shut the element down as soon as the temp spikes. I know of no reasonably priced thermocouple/PID system capable of such a reaction time. The whole point of the heat exchanger is to eliminate that spike in temp. Couple that with the fact that I use a continuous mash mixer (or stirrer if you wish) and I have a system that closely mirrors commercial breweries. Even they have temp variations throughout the mash and settle for "average" temperatures. In my case the "best" location of the thermocouple is directly under the center of the false bottom. I would think it obvious that each system is unique unto itself and the builder must learn when to do what and where to put what strictly from trial and error. Just my take on the whole subject. Bill Freeman aka Elder Rat K P Brewery - home of "the perfesser" Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 11:19:45 -0500 From: "Curtiss Norheim" <curtis.norheim at gets-1000.com> Subject: Guinness draught, widgets etc Hello all i am new to this digest and also to the home brew arena. I am planning to start home brewing soon with the help of a long time brewing friend. my beer of choice is Guinness Draught so I will attemp one of the clone recipes and the kegging method. I was wondering about the possibility of reuseing the Murphy draught bottles with the widgets inside and a pressurized bottleing device for a convienant mobile version. anyone tried this? Thanks Curt Norheim Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 12:49:38 -0500 From: stpats <stpats at bga.com> Subject: Agave Mead I want to thank Don Van Valkenburg at SteinFillers for he did indeed introduce agave nectar to homebrewing. If you have never tasted this stuff you will be amazed at the currant, prune, raisin flavors. I would like to correct a couple of misconceptions about agave nectar. First light agave nectar tastes nothing like corn syrup. The solids of light and amber agave nectar are 90% fructose (fruit sugar) not glucose (corn sugar). Fructose, glucose, and table sugar (sucrose) have very different flavors. The light nectar is used by A-B in Tequiza. Secondly, agave nectar keeps just fine at room temperature. even though it is about 76 Brix. This led many, including me initially, to incorrectly believe it needs to be refrigerated in storage. This is based on the fact that honey needs to be 81 Brix to keep. However, it isn't Brix (% solids by weight) that matters but rather the concentration (number of particles/liter). Small sugars, glucose and fructose, make up only about 70% of honey solids compared to 90% fructose of agave nectar. The net result is that 76 Brix nectar must have about the same number of molecules as 81 Brix honey. Lynne O'Connor - -- St. Patrick's of Texas Brewers Supply 512-989-9727 www.stpats.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 17:59:19 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Hydrometer correction About 3 weeks ago the ever helpful A.J. deLange posted the ASBC method for hydrometer correction, based on gravities measured in degrees Plato. A.J., what's the best way to convert my answer from Plato back into SG, given that I've also used your formula for SG to Plato (from HBD 3204): P = -616.989 + 1111.488*SG - 630.606*SG^2 + 136.10305*SG^3 ? Thanks again for the great info! Drew - -- Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario Visit Strange Brew with Drew: http://www.geocities.com/andrew_avis/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:27:10 EDT From: GASNER at aol.com Subject: Re: Cold room problem The air coming out of any typical (?) air conditioning cooling unit is near to 100% saturated at the temp. of 'that' air. It mixes with the lower humidity, higher temp air in your house (or cold room). If the coil temp ever gets below 32deg then the water freezes and eventually the whole unit freezes up. (Just run the fan then with the thermostat turned up and it will melt and drain off and you will be back in business.) By the time your particular cold room walls and contents are cooled to the thermostat temp, the air is near 100% humidity. Hmmm. I assume that you are draining off the condensed water as you speak of putting a trap in the drain line to prevent entry of room air. 1. This may sound silly, but you 'could' buy a small dehumidifier unit and place it into the cold room. Run the drain line out of the room. You might have trouble with it freezing up as it will not have been designed to work at such a low temp. If you happen to have one, or have a friend who has one, try it! 2. You could also try duct-taping a piece of cardboard over 1/2 to 3/4 of your cooling unit. (or taping shut some of the louvers). This will make it less efficient. That is the goal!!! Instead of having a large volume of, say, "60 deg 100% satd. air" flowing through it, you will have a small volume of, say, "40 deg air 100% satd. air" flowing through. When the 100% saturated 40 deg air mixes and warms up to 60 deg, the humidity will drop. Method 2 would probably be the easiest to try, should probably work, and shouldn't cause any trouble. With the insulation that you have in place, it won't be running all that much so I wouldn't worry about 'loss of efficiency'. Earl L. Gasner gasner at aol.com >Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2001 06:08:39 -0500 >From: John Wilkinson <jandjwilkins at earthlink.net> >Subject: Cold room problem >I have been putting together a brew house using a 14X28 storage >building. One end, about 7 feet, is walled off to form a cold room. The walls are double with two layers of R13 insulation. The attic has blown in insulation and the floor has R19 insulation. I used vapor barrier insulation in the walls and floor and additionally have plastic sheet under the floor insulation to hold it in and perhaps provide more vapor barrier. The floor is plywood with heavy commercial tile on it. The walls are "green rock" gypsum board with bathroom type slick wall board glued to that. The seams are caulked and the edge against the floor is caulked. The ceiling is a layer of ceiling tiles stapled to furring strips with a layer of 1/4 inch plywood on top of that and another layer of ceiling tiles. The reason for two layers of ceiling tiles is the weight of the insulation was making the original ceiling sag. So much from assurances from Lowe's that the ceiling would be strong enough to support the insulation. The seam between the walls and the ceiling is not caulked. Anyway, there is no vapor barrier in the ceiling as my understanding was there should not be. The attic is vented at each end. >A professional refrigeration unit provides the cooling with the evaporator unit hanging from the ceiling. These are common in cold rooms. Anyway, my problem is with humidity. I have been fighting mold and found the humidity to run from about 85 to 90 percent. I can't figure out why. I checked the drain pan of the evaporator unit and it does not have standing water. I put a trap in the drain pipe to prevent humid air from outside entering. The insulated door seems to seal tightly judging from closing it against air pressure. This room must be much more sealed from outside air than a house and the house maintains 50 percent humidity. I can't see why the refrigeration cycles don't draw the excess humidity out of the air. I have tried temperatures from 70 to 55 F with the same results. Is it too tightly sealed? Not tightly enough? I am stumped. >John Wilkinson Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:32:41 +0000 From: "Jim Busch" <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: Munich Musts <Going to Munich for O'fest from Sept 30th to Oct 8th. Other than the <Tents and my favorite Klosterbrauerei Andechs, are there any other <"must sees" ? Speaking of Andechs, I understand they now have an outlet downtown near the Hofbrauhaus.....anyone know the actual location? Yummm, I can almost taste those sweinenhaxn now! I would highly recommend a trip on the S Bahn to Perlach, to visit the wonderful Forschungsbrauerei. They produce one of the best biers in Bavaria, St Jocobus Blonder Bock served in earthen Masskrugs. Also, whenever the weather is good I actually prefer the quiet beirgaardens to the Ofest. Augustiners outlets at Arnulf Str just off of Hackerbrucke and also at the Hirschgarden are well worth a visit as is the original Stube just south of Hackerbrucke. There are also several biergaardens throughout the Englishergardens that are worth a visit. I picked up a nice pocket guide to the biergardens in and around Munich last time I was in town which is an excellent resource, keep an eye out for this type of thing in the book stores or brewery outlets. Prost! Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 15:17:04 -0400 From: "Jeff Beinhaur" <beinhaur at email.msn.com> Subject: Brewer or Zymurgists? How about instead of those two, "Minister of Divine Fermentation". Yes you to can become an ordained minister in the Beer Church. Check out www.beerchurch.com Not affiliated, yada, yada, yada..... Just found it to be fun. Jeff Beinhaur, Camp Hill, PA Home of the Yellow Breeches Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 14:00:46 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Re: Infusion Calcs / How To Brew Hardcopy Available Hi Group: Matt asked where to find Infusion Calculations. You can find them at www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter16-3.html These are the same as those found in Promash, with the exception of a heatloss term for the lauter tun. I specify preheating the cooler with boiling water to minimize heatloss, while Jeff incorporates a term in the equation to account for it. Either way, you get nearly the same answer, +/- a degree. *** Speaking of How To Brew... (Drumroll please....okay, that's enough) My book, How To Brew, is finally available in hardcopy! Yes, the 2nd edition, containing a bit more info than the first, is now available from several retailers and online at the following: Brewer's Rendezvous www.bobbrews.com The Homebrewery of California www.homebrewery.net and at Promash www.promash.com The books just arrived last week, coinciding with the arrival of our third child, so the distribution is just getting off the ground. I am sure you will see it in more brewshops later this year. Um, let's see, it's 400 pages, with lots of illustrations, and the cover price is $16.95 Thank you. John Palmer Monrovia, CA homepage http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer How To Brew - the online book http://www.howtobrew.com/sitemap.html Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 21:24:22 -0700 From: "Susan Ruud" <susan_ruud at ndsu.nodak.edu> Subject: Hoppy Halloween Challenge Call for Entries 4th Annual Hoppy Halloween Challenge - 2001 BJCP/AHA Sanctioned Homebrew Competition The Prairie Homebrewing Companions are hosting the Hoppy Halloween Challenge Homebrew Competition for its 4th year. We accept beers in all 26 BJCP/AHA styles including meads and cider. We've added a special category for a Halloween Theme beer with a worthy prize. The PHC invites you to send your beer to Fargo, to participate in the Hoppy Halloween, compete against some of the best beers in the country and perhaps win one (or a bunch!) of our wonderful prizes. 3 twelve ounces bottles per entry) of beer or use ours: Send your beer so it gets to our Registrar between Sept 22 and Oct 5 at this address: The PHC % Dave Trautmann 1914 10th St N Fargo, ND 58102 (701) 237-0756 Oh, we must ask you to include a little money to cover our costs. The first four beers you enter are $7.50/each and all entries after that are $5.00/each. For additional questions and all the details, visit: http://www.linkup.net/users/dtrautmann/phc2001.html If you're in Fargo, ND around Oct 27 be sure to join us for the Best-of-Show ceremonies, always a great time! Competition Coordinator, Karl Gunderson E-mail: kgunders at microsoft.com Home: 701-282-4966 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2001 21:19:42 -0500 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Wish I had thought of this Must reading.... stick it out to the end. http://www.asciimation.co.nz/beer/ js ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm Home Page:Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Sausage, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
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